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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2018
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
Today we're bleeding the brakes on a 100 Series Land Cruiser/ LX470. Sorry about the poor audio. The memory card in the audio recorder failed.
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I just did this on my 2004 100 LC. Wow I have been driving with brake fades for a couple of years. I messed up when I bled it few years back. Following your instructions and using the powerbrobe afapter made it incredibly rewarding. Thank you so much.
I just got a LX 02 and before I paid I sat and watched four of your videos. You have a new fan!
This car makes me crazy 2 month no brakes. Thanks for the video
Awesome presentation mate!
Your going to send landcruiser mechanics broke with this easy to follow content.
Hopefully not too broke, I've gotta pay the bills🤣
Great video....very helpful!!!
Very informative!
This is great! I hope you can do a detailed 80 series brake video. A lot of us 80 guys struggle with the brakes.
A detailed 80 bleed video is on the list. I have the best luck power bleeding them. I put a list of the bleeder tools we use on our website. www.otramm.com/brake-repair.html
Yup. Bleeding 80's brakes is a pain. I use the one wheel method with a vacuum bleeder. It takes awhile.
6:25
I’ve been all types of different Technicians/mechanic
I realized that’s what’s called the grease monkey yoga
It’s good for your health to be flexible and mobile!
Thanks for the video Ryan. I'm looking it up grade into EBC slotted drilled rotors green stuff pads and Joey stainless steel brake lines on my 97 80 series.
I've been looking for the right cap to go with the basic motive Power bleeder pressure then I realized I should check your videos and there it was the Power probe cap I'll be using it on my 80 series soon.
Should I just go with prestone Dot 3 or should I upgrade my fluid?
We just use regular dot 3 for the most part.
@@OTRAMM thanks!
Great video as usual, thanks mate.
Thanks for the video. It's pretty helpful. I got the part with the brake bleeding, but not the ABS bleeding. What is it that you were bleeding with the computer, exactly? Because I just changed my rear ABS sensor and it's acting funky. Should I have done this? I don't think my computer has that option.
Just replacing a sensor you shouldn't need to bleed since you didn't open the hydraulic circuit. The computer bleeding bleeds the master, booster pump, and the ABS valves.
I have a hand pump but not the fancy tools and scanners. Can I bleed these brakes with the classic two man method? Without the scanner etc?
Exellent
Can you please make a video on how to completely replace the old brake fluid on the 100 series?
It'd be the procedure in this video just done multiple times until you get fresh fluid at each bleeder.
Take to the TLC100 frame plastic cover like on TLC80 frame!
part number:
90950-01395 - 18 pices
90950-01675 - 6 pices
What if you want to just change or refresh the brake fluid do you have to use the OBD scan tool? I was told the best preventive maintenance for the accumulator pump from not going bad is to maintain/change the brake fluid?
I believe that so long as you haven't opened and of the lines you can use the old school bleeding method to just flush the fluid. I'm not positive though. Since we've got the scan tools I've always just done it that way to be on the safe side.
Great video! I am wondering if you've come across any brake failures in the 100 series both LC and LX due to the master cylinder and/or electrical brake pump going bad. This seems to be a common issue based on what I have read in online forums... Do you recommend replacing the brake system after a certain mileage due to normal wear/tear on the master cylinder and/or associated 12v pump? I'd appreciate it if you could share your thoughts. Thanks!
We've seen a few. No real ryhme or reason as to when they fail. I wouldn't do a 3k dollar repair as preventative since it seems they don't all fail.
@@OTRAMM Thanks for the response.! It sure is a costly repair. Is there a procedure to evaluate the health of the brake system? Some say you could pump the brake when the car is off 40 times in order to empty the cylinder, and then turn the ignition switch and record the time of the electrical brake pump operation from the noise it makes. If the pump stops after less than 35 seconds, then the system is good. Does this procedure make sense?
@@kamyarsardari8885 that's how we check them. It's not fool proof but it's better than nothing.
I noticed if the car remain off for a a while then the accumulator will drain itself.
Have you done the AIR pump systems on the 2006-07 models? Can't find any info on them and how to do them yourself other than following a tundra or sequoia guide.
I haven't, I hadn't even noticed that the Cruiser 4.7 got secondary air. I thought it was only on the Tundra, 4Runner, and Sequoia.
@@OTRAMM Next video idea?!😁 my 07 is in limp mode with P0442, P1442, P1445 and P2441 error codes. I wonder if the bypass solutions used on the tundras will work in this case for all these codes.
Question, is a bench bleed of the master cylinder required before this or does this method negate the bench bleed? I had to break everything down again so wondering if I should bench bleed it first or just follow this after reinstalling everything
You have to follow the factory bleed procedure for the abs if everything has been open. It's slightly different as I recall.
Is this the procedure I would need to use if I pulled out the whole assembly and everything was completely drained? I had to fix a bad connection going into unit motor and clean the guts off said motor so the mc was taken off as well. Now I have it reinstalled and the mc topped off, just making sure if this is where I should begin. Thanks
It's a bit more in depth with everything drained. You'll want to follow the procedure in the factory manual
sir replay fast today my garage land cruiser 100 s same master cylinder pedal goes down 90% what i do bleed and check our replace master cylinder kit no leaks any line ??
Why you don-t install Brembo break-support with ATE break disk more diameter?
We have really good results with the factory replacement parts. They stop well and last a long time.
I have a lx 470 with gas smell in the rear driver side. Do you have an idea if that is common in these vehicles and what’s the cause?
I haven't run across fuel smell on the 470. On the 80 Series it was super common for the fuel filler neck to rust through. That'd probably be the first thing I'd check.
So I have a 99 2nd gen gs 400 model. And I've heard this how you bleed the brakes on this model too,is this true? Because I've heard people on Lexus forum's saying they just bled them normally. If you can help it would be appreciated thanks!
I've never messed with a GS but that's about the time they started using the electric boosters in the trucks. IF you haven't opened any lines and are just looking to flush you may be able to bleed normally. If the master has gone dry you need the scan tool to bleed the air from the ABS.
When you do this process which tire did you start and finish with,is it still the RR,LR,RL,LF method?
If I remember correctly that's the order. I just follow through the scan tool menu when I do them at the shop.
Can you successfully perform this procedure with just one buddy to pump pedals and bleed valve wrench tool? I don't have any of the other tools you used. Can I do it properly?
Technically to bleed the ABS module you need the scan tool. So if the reservoir goes empty you have to have the scan tool. Doing calipers and bleeds you can usually get away with doing it the old school pedal pump way. Every now and then we've had that not work though. I always use the scan tool now.
OTRAMM what if you keep topping the reservoir full while bleeding? And the keys are in the "on" position, does it probably do the job?
@@JuskoLord247 I don't know, I haven't tried it that way.
I am doing my rear brakes this afternoon on my 80. If I am keeping same calipers, and just doing rotors and pads, do I need to still remove the brake line from the caliper and do the bleeding procedure, or is there a way to get the calipers off without having to detach the brake line?
If you're just doing pads and rotors you can just unbolt the caliper and set it on the axle. Just make sure you don't let it hang from the brake hose or kink it.
@@OTRAMM yall are the best. thank you for the quick response!
I had to disconnect my calipers to pull axle shafts recently. Can I just do the old school pump method to bleed the air at the caliper? Master cylinder never went dry but I did have to top it up
You might be able to get away with it if the accumulator didn't get any air in it. Usually we end up having to bleed them using a scanner.
@@OTRAMM can you do it with techstream?
@@TheBeedeegee we do it with either tech stream or the older master tech. Some aftermarket scanners will do it as well.
Is there a certain way to bleed the brakes like rear right, rear left, front right, and front left?
I usually work my way furthest from the master to closest.
On my j100 series my abs kicks in on lower speeds as well, even if I am stopping for a speed breaker? Was wondering if that is normal ?
No, it's probably a dirty or weak sensor. The signal isn't as strong at slow speeds so that's when you'll first see problems.
wow...not as simple as a 1967 VW Bug that's for sure ;-)
I have a 1998 Land Cruiser. Do I need the scanner to bleed the breaks? I am using a pressure bleeder.
Technically you're supposed to use the scanner. We've had luck with using a pressure bleeder to bleed them after caliper replacement. You need the scanner if you did the master or abs though
Hi, BTW, is there any risk that air can get inside when you release the brake pedal? Normally you keep holding the pedal and your assistant close the bleeder.
We have a pressure bleeder hooked up. It keeps pressure on the reservoir constant so you don't need two people.
@@OTRAMM , I followed your explanation trying to bleed my brake lines, so now brakes seem to slow me down a little bit better, but still not the same way they did it before I replaced two hoses on front calipers. So now if I push the brake once - it's too weak and it starts 'catching' close to the bottom. But if I push it twice - it stops as never before! :) What's that? Is it air still inside? Or it's high time to replace MC kit (piston, O-rings or whatsoever). Thanks!
Did you use a scan tool to bleed them? Sounds like you still have air trapped. The 100 series take forever to bleed.
@@OTRAMM Yes, I used a special cable (USB -->OBD II) and TechStream software.
I do believe that there is still air. And have no more ideas on how to bleed it out.
Last year I replaced MC assembly on other TLC100 and bled it with no scan tool at all and the result was great.
When you bleed with the scan tool it takes a bunch of cycles. Each go round only moves a small amount of fluid.
Hi OTRAMM, I want to replace a front brake hose that I think is leaking I little bit! So, I will like to purchase a scan tool that can do the job and can works with other brand cars! I am not a mechanic but works in my cars. Can you please suggest a scan tool that doesn’t cost to much? Thanks for your help!
I haven't kept up with current scan tools. We have factory scan tools since we only do Toyota. Some of the Snap On scantools will do the brakes but they're several thousand dollars. I've got an older Solus Ultra that's hit and miss on the brakes but is fast for codes. I think anything that will do the brakes is probably going to be expensive.
Thanks for answering! Good luck with freezing!
Hi, I hope you can help me. I am from the UK and I have a 1998 V8 landy. I believe the accumulator was replaced before me and also a brake line. I now can only brake the rears but get no fluid from the front brakes. Please can you advise what I need. I don't seem to have an obd port under the driver column.
I'm not sure on the non US trucks. Have you taken the bleeders all the way out while bleeding to make sure they aren't clogged? On the US trucks you need a scan tool to bleed the brakes when the master or accumulator is changed.
@@OTRAMM no I can't say I've completely removed the bleeders. I will try that next
Hi OTRAMM in 80 SERIES gow is the procedure?
The 80 Series trucks we got here in the US bleed the old school way. No computers needed. I'm not sure about the ones in the rest of the world.
Where is your shop located?
Bealeton, VA. About an hour South West of DC.
Could you share what psi you like to use with the pressure bleeder?
I think we have it set at 10 PSI.
no views 5 thumbs up hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Yeah, Crash and I have been wondering how that works?
Why do you have a video for doing a landcruiser when you are doing a lexus? ?????
Because they're the same thing😁