the reason why you need to you couldn't use the sticks on dualsense is because it uses 25k ohm pots, instead of 10K ohm in PS4. The hall analogs sold in two different packages, L3f for 10K, L8F for 25K.
Sorry that is totally incorrect information. The HE stick converts resistance (analog signal) to a digital signal. The CPU of the controller is expecting and analog signal. The IC in the HE (hall effect) is spitting out a "converted analog signal" that is incorrect. The HE analgos do not compensatre for the stick (carbon film regardless of resistance) burned into FW at the factory.
This is 1 of many things I love, the pure honesty from you. Keep up the great videos. This is very educational for many with how you break things down.
Thank you. I tried to show the pro's and cons of these sticks. I would have loved them to be usable but the travel issue is a show stopper for us. They almost tick all the boxes but fail on that one area and it's a big one IMO.
Can you go into more detail about WHY it's such a big deal? Like I can't think of a single game where that tiny amount of difference matters. Seriously all the advantages and you're complaining that you hit 100% at an imperceptible amount sooner than normal at the expense of fine centre controls and never getting drift again. Are you being honest or are you trying to keep repeat customers? @@UberMicroRepairs
Jun Zeng has created hall effect analogue sticks that come with a pcb, which can be calibrated using gamepad tester, he has a youtube channel and shows how to solder the pcb and calibrate the sticks
@@UberMicroRepairs Good work on your part 👍🏼, I've tried to consolidate my knowledge on them with some assumptions on my part to be picked apart or corrected, I hope it proves to be helpful & informative, it was painfully boring to scrape together but I did it anyway 🥴 god knows why 🤷🏼♂️. Does my study hold any value in my meager understanding??? th-cam.com/video/9uBqOdvVA_s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IQojUuzPNuaj0ZB5
Thanks for this video. There is a calibration board for the PS5 controller Hall effect sticks which seems to fix the problem you experienced. Would you be able to do a video using those, please?
Would love to see that video about how to properly calibrate these things. Installing some in a broken Xbox series controller this weekend (can't be worse than the current totally broken joystick modules).
@@jhonRamirez77no idea about op but I've upgraded all my pads to hall effect. The dead zone around the edge is great as I don't need to shove my thumb sticks hard to the edge to 100% took my brain a week to adjust but now I have it's great. The center point calibration is a PITA though and I've also noticed not all sensors are created equal. Some are solid at the center but some have a little slop. Maybe 1-3%
Not sure if you've come across VK's Channel in the ten months since you posted this comment, but he made an excellent step-by-step calibration guide you might find useful.
What surprises me is because of all this variation the sticks tend to have, that nobody's thought of a way to replicate the cowling over the sticks using something that is affixed with vertical compression and some long screws _specific_ for each gamepad, and a means to dial in calibration with a small microprocessor that is soldered beneath the controller similar to fixed / pre-calibrated solutions you see on some other HE replacements. The way drift fix solutions resolve this problem on resistive pots are unacceptable, but I can *totally* see a combo application where a _like_ solution for HE sticks can be used to define X-zero, Y-zero, X-max, Y-max, −X-max and −Y-max. Circularity is always going to suck with these, but they'll at least suck predictably, _forever._ And that is important with a tool - not that it works well, but that when it does suck, you can compensate for it reliably.
I have a Zen Pro gulikit controller my dead zones are perfect and the circularity tests are 0.6% and from what I have played on the controller the accuracy feels great to me. Seems like hall effect sensors need a lot of filtering and specific hardware to make them accurate.
Yes, Gulikit knows exactly what they are doing with this hardware, the competition likes to go cheap to try and out-produce Gulikit. The effects are these horribad modules. The more of these there are, the cheaper they are, and the more people want to buy as a "quick fix to stick drift". It'd be better to get something from Gulikit or something with swappable thumbsticks like the Edge or Eswap.
Very enlightening and thorough this overview, never thought about the outter precision (I dont play competitive games or games that require too much precision), But I'd like to know if you have tested or plan to test using those hall effects in conjunction to the jun Zeng calibration PCBs that have been floating around over the last few weeks, too be honest the price for those PCBs and hall effects make me consider it a last resort but at the same time I'm really curious about those.
I mean in fairness to you I can't think of a game where that millimeter of outer precision is even remotely important, especially with the advantages such as no future drift. Making a big deal out of a nothing burger
thanks, very thorough analysis. this type of test would definitely benefit from having a sort of a jig or vice to keep the controller fixed and the camera stable to better illustrate the deadzones. also if possible show the part numbers of the sticks you've used.
@@UberMicroRepairs That why I ordered 2 sets of Hall effect sticks under 50 euro’s. Bit expensive but no longer the annoying stick drift and the constant calibrating.
I wonder if these could be used alongside those anti-drift pot kits to calibrate the range alongside the center. If a potentiometer can be tuned alongside the hall position to get a good center but also a full range, I think the hall sticks could be actually borderline perfect. My thinking is that the pots could be used to suppress the voltage curve of the hall effect sensors so that they don't hit 100% early and overshoot. I believe the overshooting is also probably why the circularity is so bad with them. It might even reduce the center jitter a bit, but I'm not sure there.
@@kmemz Well, no, it will end up getting to 100% faster, so it will be even worse. Think of 2 circles, the outer circle is the maximum stick throw, the inner circle is when it reaches 100%. When you use a trim pot both circles shrink proportionally not just the outer circle.
@@Duxa_ The pots reduce the voltage range, the mainboard expects a certain voltage range to either direction that the halls are exceeding, win win.Keep in mind, the mainboard isn't reading a straight "0-100" value for left-right or up-down, it's reading "100-0-100", as it puts voltage down a center pin and reads the output from either of the side pins. If the hall output is giving it 175-0-175, a pot or two can trim that down.
@@kmemz Like I said, it wont work, your throw will be even narrower. The reason Im saying all this is because I tried using them, both in 2 per stick and 4 per strick trim pot configurations. Hall effect isnt giving higher voltage. Its reaching maximum voltage too soon, but it doesnt go over voltage. So using trim pot reduces the 100 -0- 100 to 90 - 0 - 90 (or whatever). Those kits fix the drift but make circularity terrible even on non hall effect sticks. They are worthless. But I guess for most people who dont understand circularity as long as drift is gone its all good. Really the only way to do it correctly is via programmable SOC, like Jung Zen boards. I hope those get cloned and drop in price soon. $10 a piece is too much. I hope they drop to around $1 or $2 a piece.
I learned more in the first half of this video then the last week I spent trying to find the way to repair my controller. And that's not just from the hall effect but how the analog sticks work in general.
I’m shocked, everybody’s hyped about the Hall effect sticks but no one have ever given them such a clear review as you! These sticks are a catastrophe when it comes to fps games. Everyone cares about the sticks are centered in the middle. Is there any way to calibrate the end positions of these sticks for ps5/xbox controllers?
I want to preface by saying great video and thoroughness. However I dont see an instance where that last 5 percent or so of dead space would matter. When you’re hitting the edge or going that close, you want full input. Not sure when I’d want 95percent input on any game. Nor do I think any of the games are that precise at the edge of the stick. All the precision in aiming is at center to maybe 25 percent. I’d take this over ever having stick drift again
I'd theorize that Dualsense and Xbox Series sticks report a different reading because of voltage differences in contrast to PS4, so it's not enough to use the exact Hall Effect solution in a PS4 and put the same thing in a stick housing for the later generation controllers. We have a lot more to learn about thumbsticks, especially in the Dualsense and Xbox Series.
It’s good they are fine for ps4 , hopefully they improve on the newer controllers . I’m just waiting on my email back to have my battle beaver sent over for the upgrade looking forward to it
If they behave consistently we will adjust. The other potentiometers are unpredictable. Don’t know how long they’ll last without malfunctioning then the malfunctions are inconsistent. I’ve cleaned mine sooo many times and each time the results last less time. They’re essentially unusable now. And this started a few months in. Hall effects potentiometers are about longevity and consistency for me.
@@UberMicroRepairswhat if we have a precision ring sort of thing on the thumbstick. Maybe not a precision ring but something to kill that extra travel?
Man those are so close to being good, but that excessive jitter and slightly too high sensitivity make them not quite ideal. I wonder how the competing blue/green hall effect sticks (ksilver jh13) compare? Good to know that DS4 can work fine though!
Oh also, just so some more technical people know, you could easily throw a ~1uF capacitor between the middle pin and ground on each module to smooth out the noise on these orange/black hall effect modules. I did that when messing with these sticks on a breadboard and it worked well. Going too far below 1uF doesn't filter out enough noise, and going too far over results in lag when moving the stick in the 0V direction.
Gotta check out the back boards that filter the litter and fix the circularity. Much more expensive but seems to solve this problem. Mine show up in about 2 weeks so I guess we'll see.
Hi, I'm six months late from your hall effects presentation. Though I'm totally discouraged at the fact that these hall effects don't perform as well as the hype in the streets is. I'm grateful I watched your presentation with live testing facts and avoided a potential mishap. Having said that, which analog sticks would you recommend for my Xbox one controller?. Thank you in advance.
Interesting testing and diagnostics. I was curious myself about how hall effect replacements would work on a PS5. Disappointing that they don't work as well.
@@UberMicroRepairs When you're playing cod, your stick barely stays on the 97%-100% range. especially for the right stick. Most aiming happens between 0 to 50%. Nobody's aiming using that range to aim the sticks, unless you're using 1 sensitivity. I would say that the that 3% range you're talking about is negligible and totally outweighs the cons of having a dead controller with stick drift that happens in 3 or 4 months of heavy use.
@@ddt3764 assuming I had this "issue", it'll just mean that as a high sensitivity player I'd get 100% range without bridging. To top it off if the outer deadzone reaching 100% early one can use a sillicon circle that will essentially thicken the analog stem. These aren't perfect. Getting paste the jitter and the stick slightly moving when resting my finger would be the bigger issue, something I see more often with these new analog all being made of all plastic. The xbox360 stick had a metal brace instead of plastic. And those always seemed to last longer.
An outer circularity of Avg Error: 10.9% seems standard over the circularity line in a constant circle ⭕ projection on DS4 🎮 🎯. Anything too high over that say 14-15% will cause unwanted fast menu scrolling, too low your max turn, look, run vehicle speeds won't be reached under 100%. But worse than that if it's not tamed to a standard size across all your pads 🎮 calibration range. Your muscle memory won't marry up to the response curves across them all from pad 🎮 to pad, your stick 🕹️🎯 control 🎚️🎛️ range will feel different. I have successfully tamed all my pads with single or double 3x3mm trim pots used per axis 🪛. 2 Of 1 million ohms resistance 3x3mm trim pots on one axis - & + 3 prong terminal sides provide absolute minimum 0.7-8% circularity shrinkage & deadspot 🎯 draw in size 😉. (2 million resistance = fractional 🤏🏼 change to current ⚡ init 😁👍🏼) The Twin trim pot method also allows you to shorten the circuit length somewhat to reduce the resistance ⚡ closer to the single trim pot method of 1 of 1 million resistance. A single 1 million trim pot has a fixed shrinkage of about 1.4-5% with screw 🪛 swing - / + repositioning. Twin method has finer adjustment & can be oddly paired in different combinations for total resistance reduction & start position shunting -/+ for balanced outer circularity ⭕ draw in 😜, it's more work & harder to get your head around but I'm there 🫡😵💫 🎯🎯. I will have to watch this a few times for the issues op had with Xbox & Dualsense calibrations 🤷🏼♂️. As long as the circle ⭕ is over sized they can be shrunk down but mechanical centre slop tolerance that's a 🤬 lack of quality issue 😬🤐...
I can only speak for myself, but the 10 to 15% error is quite acceptable for me. I'm not a pro player. The trade off for greater wear and tear is value added for me. However, I understand for pro and more competitive players, those kinds of error percentage are unacceptable.
Massive amounts of respect for being honest about this, especially as a business. Hopefully word get's round and some big YT roller reviewers see this. This needs to blow up. Crazy to think that Hypr (and others) are selling the hall effect mod for PS5 controllers too, and i imagine they're using the same model of hall effect seen in this vid... Do you think the same can be said about 3rd party controllers like Gamesir G7 SE or snakebyte? Also what is it about the DS4 that makes it sound with the hall effect mod?
Thank you. They are the same just configured different for DS5 controllers. We can do the PS4 based controllers because we can calibrate them fully. I would imagine any 3rd party that has a calibration finction should work with these.
@@UberMicroRepairsDo you mean you calibrate them through software you mentioned in a couple of videos back? So would that mean you would need some similar type of software for the DS5 controller to get these to work properly?
i had a hard time calibrating these. they 'jump' when calibrating. hopefully it's just this first batch. taking off the sensors and spinning the magnets around a bit made it easier to calibrate once it was installed on the controller. perhaps using the "no drift" pads will add a little more resistance so that they don't 1.0 before hitting the outer edge? i will give it a try tonight.
Yeah loosening the magnet holder helps. However the Drift Fix boards ("no drift" pads) I wouldn't recommend using. We have never used them. They can centre the sticks but rob travel from the full range.
@@UberMicroRepairs High resistance trim pots rob less range, you know the problem your having now with massive Avg Error: % 3x3mm trim pots shrink that & the deadspot 🎯 size. Absolute minimum shrink is about 0.7-8% using twin 1 million ohms resistance trim pots on 1 axis - & + sides. The single 1 million method per axis shrinks circularity about 1.4-5%. Circularity overshoot is only shown in the diagonal regions but it still exists in the N S E W positions because you're hitting 100 before the stick side reaches the case. Trim pots shrink the range & fix that if the right combination resistance value is used. The pre-populated fix boards are useless to me too for that reason I've used multiple single or double combinations to reach perfect 🎯🎯.
@@aditesto7918 That usually means you fitted a potentiometer with lower ohms ♎ resistance ⚡ value than the originals, or there slightly different on centre positioning. I don't know what you're fitting them in but I've done extensive DS4 10K stick studies. I've recently fitted 1M resistance 3×3mm trim pots in an Xbox one elite series 2 to tighten up the response curve outer circularity ⭕ & deadspot 🎯 size. Dualsense uses 2K1 - 2K3 2100 - 2300 ohm's ♎ resistance potentiometer 🕹️ sides, higher than original provides scope for shrink adjustment that's what I've found on old style potentiometers. I've not 🙅🏼♂️ touched hall effect magnetic 🧲 sticks yet just tried to theorise what the model numbers 🔢 & letters actually represent if there power demarcations or just batch codes 😂🤣😭 👨🏼🦯. I can only wish for some illumination 💡🕯️😶🌫️🙈 on the new industrial secrets 🫣😉😜. Drives me nuts. Still what I have will probably help everyone, if you still need help you know where to find me...
@@aditesto7918 Multimeter test your originals if you still have them & ensure the new ones are slightly 🤏🏼 higher resistance. I personally don't know of any method I've done to open the 100% range after the soldering point. Just shifting the result with 2 off 1M resistance 3 × 3mm trim pots in the - / + of said Axis at a combined 2M fractional 🤏🏼 minimum shrink of around 0.7 - 0.8% on DS4 🎮 results.
Isn't there new versions of those? On the side of the hall effect module you can see the number of the PCB, L-4B seems to be the latest, some sellers address them as V5. Also, there is firmware calibration tools as well. Those could help right? I like this video lots of attention to details.
I would recommend a Series Elite 2. M$ warraty is very good. Add our upgraded 3rd party analog stick modules and upgraded LB/RB switches it's about the best controller out there!
What about these Jun's stabilization boards for hall analogs? Have you tried them? They're not cheap so I'll wait for alternatives before trying myself, but they seem to be quite effective.
Genuine question, does it matter if its hitting 100 percent early. I mean as long as as it hits 100 percent on all axis it should be okay because I don't think there's ever a need to use throttle sticks at less than 100 percent capacity. Don't think it will affect any gameplay.
Im thinking of using some of those centering potentiometers just to reduce the output velocity. Then doing the manual calibration on the stick itself. Just for fun. I did a video on these too and I wasn't too happy with them either.
We watched your video. Very well done. and subed. These hall effect in DS5 and Xbox controller just seem to miss the mark. If they took the time to refine them a little bit they would be acceptable.
They aren't potentiometers. You can't use those. And everyone commenting. For Xbox1 controllers there this guy named "Jun zeng " (on youtube) who has his link to aliexpress with a board that can help translate the signal and give a better reading and reducing the jiitter. In order to further calibrate these types, you need to push and the magnet and center then via the little holes to each side of the little plastic. These are just simple and first iteration. Marius (on TH-cam has been working on his for over a year now. v2 available for PS4. (Xbox/switch/other soon with v3).
@Vizr. do you know if it fixes jitter by reducing the aiming resolution like gulikit does? I'm concerned those "translation" board just hide the issue using filters and built in deadzones. But I'm not sure...
Thanks for your videos, I was contemplating on buying these, so I'm really glad you tried them out. Have you found anymore reliable ones by chance, also what is that mounting setup you use for your controller boards? Thanks!
Apparently, there's a new version of the hall effect joystick. They have a red hall effect sensor board and have less jitter now. What are your thoughts on these new versions of Hall effect sticks on the Xbox Series Controller and do hall effect sensors interfere with the hall effect sensors on the triggers?
Yeah that is a posibility. Howevever it's not something I would consider doing. They either work correctly or they don't. These analogs in PS5 and Xbox controller have so much deveation at 100% we're not willing to use them untill a fix or better solution is found. We're working on it behind the scenes!
Have you seen the other kit that comes with a PCB sold by @junZeng-520? This seems like it would be a better way of dealing with calibration of the zero/max points of the stick.
Yes but he's selling them for like $50 (Canadian) he needs to or someone else needs to kindly make and share a pcb design to some company in China to mass produce cheaply 😂
@@1upnolan340 i mean sure, the price per unit is bad if you're repairing a single unit, but the listing on the aliexpress page suggests that this is targeted at repair shops that would buy in mass quantities at a much lower price
@@1upnolan340 whole heartedly agree with you it could be a major game changer, those boards need to get RE'd pronto lmao, the only thing I'm not clear on from his installation vids are why the middle pins get insulated and soldered to a pad on the PCB
Plz READ I just got one and when I try to put a PS4 disc inside it doesn't let me put it in sometimes it goes in but then doesn't read at all. I did software update and everything but the disc drive just doesn't let me put it in. Some when there's no disc inside it makes a noise like its trying to read or accept a disc even tho there's no disc inside PLS HELP!!!
Great informative vid👍🏻 But what if someone could design some small ring inserts to fit into the shell casing? Not a 100% fix but would help with allround extra travel.😊 just an idea. What would be your solution? Keep up the the good stuff👍🏻👍🏻
Amazing video, you truly have an amazing channel. Question, those little height tabs you durned during remove, do they play any role here? I noticed the hall sticks didn't have anything and they sit flush to the board.
Sometimes you get them first time bang on. My first pad was like that. The next 4 pads were a nightmare. Also the first two sensors perfect no slop on the return to center. All the rest did have.
I play a lot Call of Duty games with a Scuf Instinct (xbox) controller and i change analogs with the version from PS5, after that i notice that gap (empty space), but in game that is nothing special and you will not notice any of that gap when playing. Just normal like before.
Is no flux needed for this? I’m looking to do this myself but I’m a beginner to soldering and see some people use flux. I understand the basics to soldering though. And also what temp should you set your iron and heat gun when doing this?
Flux... LOTS of flux!! Too much flux is just enough.. Specialy if you are new to soldering. Hotair to remove the sticks @ 395c and 50% air flow. To solder in the new sticks, LOTS of flux (if you are new) and temp around 350c- ish! Did I mention lots of flux. Leaded solder too! BTW lots of flux! 99% IPA & cotton buds to clean it up. FLUX... Lot's OF... FLUX!
🔥❤️🔥 I have really bad stick drift with my factory Xbox series X controller. Im trying to find a fix or should I just buy a brand new controller??❤️🔥🔥
It's very unfortunate that we dont have any hardware calibration tool for these original controllers. It's kind of a right to repair issue, isn't it? Being able to replace old sticks with drift with new ones and then be able to actually calibrate it perfectly like OEM?
Which are the best joysticks for Xbox controllers? I'm replaced mine with these trash hall effect ones and even after calibration, their performance was terrible.
I found out a way to adjust these sticks to minimize the outer dead zone almost as to original value. Without any additional software or hardware. And the jitter also goes away with my mod.
Have you tried to make on PC quick circular moves (about 8 times) or just quick left-right 10 times? Mine new analog stick in XSX controller keep 'crashing' and only solution is reconnecting controller. Strange
It's so annoying that we as customers have to struggle to fix such a huge flaw from Sony's product. Retro fitting stick from with manual calibration obviously has flaws, but Sony could easily spend some R&D budget to fix this fundamentally broken piece of hardware as the technology already exists to do so. Why would they? People will buy new new controllers when excessive stick drift develops (as in mine). They'll even sell you controllers with user replaceable sticks for insane amount of money instead of fixing those in the first place. I refuse to accept a piece of hardware such as this being a consumable simply because it slightly cuts costs and makes Sony even more money (which with their recent greedy moves almost makes it look like it's intentional). Very good overview. One thing I didn't got from the video is how do those feel? I mean, normal analogs have very bad "stickiness" until you overcome the initial friction making the thing feel grindy and unprecise in really fine movements around deadzone. How do those replacement sticks feel? I would assume there is no additional friction, as there is no potentiometers so should be much smoother - right?
Sorry, but how does that “gap” effect game play? I’ve used Hall Effect controllers and have never experienced an “outer” dead zone. I’ve never had an experience where I’ve push the analog stick to it’s max in any direction and had the character just stand there. Is there something I’m missing?
These can be calbrated useing the hole what the yellow plastic has use thin pointed tweezers pull in opersite direction from drift while slightly pushing down should correct drift showing on calabration dot
He's know this. That's not what he is showing. He says the thumb stickhas 100% movement But the hall sensors is well over 100% but nothing can understand that info so it messes up the movement. The last 0-20% throw is just all 100% as far as the pc or console is concerned. And the issue isn't even that dead zone. It's the inconsistency of them.
Thanks for this very informational video. I have replaced my analog sticks with hall effect sticks on my xbox one controller. When I now press the left trigger, my left analog moves a bit because of the magnet from the trigger sensor. Do you had this problem too?
@@DzaceQ I applies some eletric tape between the trigger magnet and the hall effect magnet. It is a bit better but still not completly gone. Why does nobody else have this problem?
I used zens hall effect sensor and pcb and they were good but i wanna try these, can i use his pcb on these hall effects (Gunits i believe the orange are called) to calibrate the outer and inner thresholds?
I have a question whether if I buy an analogue with the hall effect and change it, it will work normally or not, apart from calibration because it has to be done anyway, I mean the Xbox Series X controller, please answer me and where I can buy analogues with hall effect for xbox
Yes, We've tested all the HE analogs and calibration boards on all controllers. Results are less than ideal TBH! The benchmark is factory default and even then all fall short so far! We are always looking to improve and give feedback to manufactures. Keep an eye out on out community page for updates on controller we offer HE analog upgrades to!!
Hi! I have Elite Seriese 2 controller, but it right joystick has stick drift. I want to change it with Hall Effect joy stick. Should i do it and where i can buy Hall Effect Stick? any general hall effect joystick will work? Please let me know
I’ve seen on Ali there’s two types of halls for the ps5. Yellow as these and the blues that are a little more expensive. Have you tested those or any thoughts on?
Is there anyway to adjust the windows 11 auto deadzone without ds4? I just got a gamesir t4 pro with hal effect and there's an enormous deadzone. Seeing this, I'm guessing it's windows. I calibrated in usb game controllers,... that did nothing. Dud the same in steam, with no effect.
No point, because installing raw HE analog sticks WILL NOT give proper range. That is why you need the calibration boards. Or spend time working out how to calibrate them properly.
@@UberMicroRepairs i can send to u video for prove , give me ur e-email , btw keep in ur mind when u try to calibrate sometime the potentiometer stuck u have to open it and make it n the center its tricky u can feel analog stop working but its not another advice when analog up "calibrate " dont push it down just go up with ur analog and use same hole up to calibrate , i calibrate analog in 3 seconds same as right and left , if ur analog up go up if down go down , now there is v3.0 hall effect without jitter
I think you are missing the point on why we want these. The original analogs are crap within a year, I have 2, and from my understanding, the hall effects wont get drift after just 6 months. I would be super happy to deal with a slightly less range to get more than a year use out of a $75 controller.
No you won't. Unless you only play very simple games, these sticks are garbage. They're not precise enough for shooters, racing games or even sports games. You'll loose your mind with these...
the reason why you need to you couldn't use the sticks on dualsense is because it uses 25k ohm pots, instead of 10K ohm in PS4. The hall analogs sold in two different packages, L3f for 10K, L8F for 25K.
Best response to this video
Sorry that is totally incorrect information. The HE stick converts resistance (analog signal) to a digital signal. The CPU of the controller is expecting and analog signal. The IC in the HE (hall effect) is spitting out a "converted analog signal" that is incorrect. The HE analgos do not compensatre for the stick (carbon film regardless of resistance) burned into FW at the factory.
@@EneRec Not quite.. That is true if using potentiomiters... this is hall effect. The 10k / 2.3K isn't really relevent.
This is 1 of many things I love, the pure honesty from you.
Keep up the great videos. This is very educational for many with how you break things down.
Thank you. I tried to show the pro's and cons of these sticks. I would have loved them to be usable but the travel issue is a show stopper for us. They almost tick all the boxes but fail on that one area and it's a big one IMO.
I can show you how to fix that
Can you go into more detail about WHY it's such a big deal? Like I can't think of a single game where that tiny amount of difference matters. Seriously all the advantages and you're complaining that you hit 100% at an imperceptible amount sooner than normal at the expense of fine centre controls and never getting drift again. Are you being honest or are you trying to keep repeat customers? @@UberMicroRepairs
@@guitardistortion8517 I know how to fix it already!
How can you fix it stills worth after the fix I mean it is better then the original sticks?
Jun Zeng has created hall effect analogue sticks that come with a pcb, which can be calibrated using gamepad tester, he has a youtube channel and shows how to solder the pcb and calibrate the sticks
I know. I've just this minute installed them in a SCUF Reflex FPS and DualSense Edge module controller!
@@UberMicroRepairshow did they do? I was thinking about adding them to my scuf.
@@ihansolomychewie8137 I wouldn't.
@@UberMicroRepairsnot good?
Ok ill just add new stock sticks then thank my guy.
I was always super sketched on these joysticks. Glad to see someone reputable taking a hard look at them. Awesome video my friend
Thanks 👍
Ditto
@@UberMicroRepairs
Good work on your part 👍🏼, I've tried to consolidate my knowledge on them with some assumptions on my part to be picked apart or corrected, I hope it proves to be helpful & informative, it was painfully boring to scrape together but I did it anyway 🥴 god knows why 🤷🏼♂️.
Does my study hold any value in my meager understanding???
th-cam.com/video/9uBqOdvVA_s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IQojUuzPNuaj0ZB5
Thanks for this video. There is a calibration board for the PS5 controller Hall effect sticks which seems to fix the problem you experienced. Would you be able to do a video using those, please?
Would love to see that video about how to properly calibrate these things. Installing some in a broken Xbox series controller this weekend (can't be worse than the current totally broken joystick modules).
Hey, any updates on your controller?
@@jhonRamirez77no idea about op but I've upgraded all my pads to hall effect.
The dead zone around the edge is great as I don't need to shove my thumb sticks hard to the edge to 100% took my brain a week to adjust but now I have it's great.
The center point calibration is a PITA though and I've also noticed not all sensors are created equal.
Some are solid at the center but some have a little slop.
Maybe 1-3%
Not sure if you've come across VK's Channel in the ten months since you posted this comment, but he made an excellent step-by-step calibration guide you might find useful.
What surprises me is because of all this variation the sticks tend to have, that nobody's thought of a way to replicate the cowling over the sticks using something that is affixed with vertical compression and some long screws _specific_ for each gamepad, and a means to dial in calibration with a small microprocessor that is soldered beneath the controller similar to fixed / pre-calibrated solutions you see on some other HE replacements.
The way drift fix solutions resolve this problem on resistive pots are unacceptable, but I can *totally* see a combo application where a _like_ solution for HE sticks can be used to define X-zero, Y-zero, X-max, Y-max, −X-max and −Y-max. Circularity is always going to suck with these, but they'll at least suck predictably, _forever._ And that is important with a tool - not that it works well, but that when it does suck, you can compensate for it reliably.
I have a Zen Pro gulikit controller my dead zones are perfect and the circularity tests are 0.6% and from what I have played on the controller the accuracy feels great to me.
Seems like hall effect sensors need a lot of filtering and specific hardware to make them accurate.
Yes, Gulikit knows exactly what they are doing with this hardware, the competition likes to go cheap to try and out-produce Gulikit. The effects are these horribad modules. The more of these there are, the cheaper they are, and the more people want to buy as a "quick fix to stick drift". It'd be better to get something from Gulikit or something with swappable thumbsticks like the Edge or Eswap.
Hello, Dedzon, is the Hall Effect analog smaller than the original analog?
Very enlightening and thorough this overview, never thought about the outter precision (I dont play competitive games or games that require too much precision), But I'd like to know if you have tested or plan to test using those hall effects in conjunction to the jun Zeng calibration PCBs that have been floating around over the last few weeks, too be honest the price for those PCBs and hall effects make me consider it a last resort but at the same time I'm really curious about those.
I mean in fairness to you I can't think of a game where that millimeter of outer precision is even remotely important, especially with the advantages such as no future drift. Making a big deal out of a nothing burger
thanks, very thorough analysis. this type of test would definitely benefit from having a sort of a jig or vice to keep the controller fixed and the camera stable to better illustrate the deadzones. also if possible show the part numbers of the sticks you've used.
For the Joy cons I recommend the hall effects sticks. Even brand new. The wear and tear of the normal sticks is just absurd.
Yeah they are bad. even Nintendo offer free JoyCon repair for free out of warranty now. However remember they will just put the junk stick in.
@@UberMicroRepairs That why I ordered 2 sets of Hall effect sticks under 50 euro’s. Bit expensive but no longer the annoying stick drift and the constant calibrating.
I wonder if these could be used alongside those anti-drift pot kits to calibrate the range alongside the center. If a potentiometer can be tuned alongside the hall position to get a good center but also a full range, I think the hall sticks could be actually borderline perfect. My thinking is that the pots could be used to suppress the voltage curve of the hall effect sensors so that they don't hit 100% early and overshoot. I believe the overshooting is also probably why the circularity is so bad with them. It might even reduce the center jitter a bit, but I'm not sure there.
no, those pot kits reduce the throw of the stick
@@Duxa_ That's the point exactly.
@@kmemz Well, no, it will end up getting to 100% faster, so it will be even worse. Think of 2 circles, the outer circle is the maximum stick throw, the inner circle is when it reaches 100%. When you use a trim pot both circles shrink proportionally not just the outer circle.
@@Duxa_ The pots reduce the voltage range, the mainboard expects a certain voltage range to either direction that the halls are exceeding, win win.Keep in mind, the mainboard isn't reading a straight "0-100" value for left-right or up-down, it's reading "100-0-100", as it puts voltage down a center pin and reads the output from either of the side pins. If the hall output is giving it 175-0-175, a pot or two can trim that down.
@@kmemz Like I said, it wont work, your throw will be even narrower. The reason Im saying all this is because I tried using them, both in 2 per stick and 4 per strick trim pot configurations. Hall effect isnt giving higher voltage. Its reaching maximum voltage too soon, but it doesnt go over voltage. So using trim pot reduces the 100 -0- 100 to 90 - 0 - 90 (or whatever). Those kits fix the drift but make circularity terrible even on non hall effect sticks. They are worthless. But I guess for most people who dont understand circularity as long as drift is gone its all good. Really the only way to do it correctly is via programmable SOC, like Jung Zen boards. I hope those get cloned and drop in price soon. $10 a piece is too much. I hope they drop to around $1 or $2 a piece.
Why didn't you used the calibration website to optimize the stick response?
I learned more in the first half of this video then the last week I spent trying to find the way to repair my controller. And that's not just from the hall effect but how the analog sticks work in general.
I’m shocked, everybody’s hyped about the Hall effect sticks but no one have ever given them such a clear review as you! These sticks are a catastrophe when it comes to fps games. Everyone cares about the sticks are centered in the middle. Is there any way to calibrate the end positions of these sticks for ps5/xbox controllers?
I want to preface by saying great video and thoroughness. However I dont see an instance where that last 5 percent or so of dead space would matter. When you’re hitting the edge or going that close, you want full input. Not sure when I’d want 95percent input on any game. Nor do I think any of the games are that precise at the edge of the stick. All the precision in aiming is at center to maybe 25 percent. I’d take this over ever having stick drift again
I'd theorize that Dualsense and Xbox Series sticks report a different reading because of voltage differences in contrast to PS4, so it's not enough to use the exact Hall Effect solution in a PS4 and put the same thing in a stick housing for the later generation controllers. We have a lot more to learn about thumbsticks, especially in the Dualsense and Xbox Series.
dreamcast did it in 1999
It’s good they are fine for ps4 , hopefully they improve on the newer controllers . I’m just waiting on my email back to have my battle beaver sent over for the upgrade looking forward to it
🔥❤️🔥 I love your content. So do you have to calibrate the regular analog replacement??❤️🔥🔥
Yes we do. We center it and make sure it goes to 100% at the extreams.
If they behave consistently we will adjust. The other potentiometers are unpredictable. Don’t know how long they’ll last without malfunctioning then the malfunctions are inconsistent. I’ve cleaned mine sooo many times and each time the results last less time. They’re essentially unusable now. And this started a few months in. Hall effects potentiometers are about longevity and consistency for me.
Great video, still use them and sell them with raised kontrol freek grips. Taller stems longer travel distance.
Thanks, Unfortunately taller sticks won't help.
@@UberMicroRepairswhat if we have a precision ring sort of thing on the thumbstick. Maybe not a precision ring but something to kill that extra travel?
Hey man! dude from Spain here! Could you explain me how this leyend videos are not with subtitles?? You are top bro! Keep it up!
Thanks. I might look into the subtitles soon.
Man those are so close to being good, but that excessive jitter and slightly too high sensitivity make them not quite ideal. I wonder how the competing blue/green hall effect sticks (ksilver jh13) compare? Good to know that DS4 can work fine though!
Im not a fan of those jh13, the centering spring inside is way too delicate and instead of helping with centering issues, it made them worse
@@wybuchowyukomendant Oh you have some? How's the jitter and range?
Oh also, just so some more technical people know, you could easily throw a ~1uF capacitor between the middle pin and ground on each module to smooth out the noise on these orange/black hall effect modules. I did that when messing with these sticks on a breadboard and it worked well. Going too far below 1uF doesn't filter out enough noise, and going too far over results in lag when moving the stick in the 0V direction.
Gotta check out the back boards that filter the litter and fix the circularity. Much more expensive but seems to solve this problem. Mine show up in about 2 weeks so I guess we'll see.
Love that intro. I share your principles.
Nice one appreciate it!
Hi, I'm six months late from your hall effects presentation. Though I'm totally discouraged at the fact that these hall effects don't perform as well as the hype in the streets is. I'm grateful I watched your presentation with live testing facts and avoided a potential mishap. Having said that, which analog sticks would you recommend for my Xbox one controller?. Thank you in advance.
Don't be so discouraged check out my other video here: th-cam.com/video/VhjanOAMCvo/w-d-xo.html There is a PS5 video aswell.
Interesting testing and diagnostics. I was curious myself about how hall effect replacements would work on a PS5. Disappointing that they don't work as well.
This is an older video.. the senario has change since.
I don't think that outer deadzone affects anything at all. I highly doubt. I'd take that con anytime over stick drift in 3-4 months.
I understand you because in most games people Cao they're deadzone meaning the area it doesn't register nearly doesn't matter
It does because its effectivly shortening the throw of the stick.
@@UberMicroRepairs When you're playing cod, your stick barely stays on the 97%-100% range. especially for the right stick. Most aiming happens between 0 to 50%.
Nobody's aiming using that range to aim the sticks, unless you're using 1 sensitivity.
I would say that the that 3% range you're talking about is negligible and totally outweighs the cons of having a dead controller with stick drift that happens in 3 or 4 months of heavy use.
@@ddt3764 assuming I had this "issue", it'll just mean that as a high sensitivity player I'd get 100% range without bridging. To top it off if the outer deadzone reaching 100% early one can use a sillicon circle that will essentially thicken the analog stem. These aren't perfect.
Getting paste the jitter and the stick slightly moving when resting my finger would be the bigger issue, something I see more often with these new analog all being made of all plastic. The xbox360 stick had a metal brace instead of plastic. And those always seemed to last longer.
An outer circularity of Avg Error: 10.9% seems standard over the circularity line in a constant circle ⭕ projection on DS4 🎮 🎯.
Anything too high over that say 14-15% will cause unwanted fast menu scrolling, too low your max turn, look, run vehicle speeds won't be reached under 100%.
But worse than that if it's not tamed to a standard size across all your pads 🎮 calibration range.
Your muscle memory won't marry up to the response curves across them all from pad 🎮 to pad, your stick 🕹️🎯 control 🎚️🎛️ range will feel different.
I have successfully tamed all my pads with single or double 3x3mm trim pots used per axis 🪛.
2 Of 1 million ohms resistance 3x3mm trim pots on one axis - & + 3 prong terminal sides provide absolute minimum 0.7-8% circularity shrinkage & deadspot 🎯 draw in size 😉.
(2 million resistance = fractional 🤏🏼 change to current ⚡ init 😁👍🏼)
The Twin trim pot method also allows you to shorten the circuit length somewhat to reduce the resistance ⚡ closer to the single trim pot method of 1 of 1 million resistance.
A single 1 million trim pot has a fixed shrinkage of about 1.4-5% with screw 🪛 swing - / + repositioning.
Twin method has finer adjustment & can be oddly paired in different combinations for total resistance reduction & start position shunting -/+ for balanced outer circularity ⭕ draw in 😜, it's more work & harder to get your head around but I'm there 🫡😵💫 🎯🎯.
I will have to watch this a few times for the issues op had with Xbox & Dualsense calibrations 🤷🏼♂️.
As long as the circle ⭕ is over sized they can be shrunk down but mechanical centre slop tolerance that's a 🤬 lack of quality issue 😬🤐...
I can only speak for myself, but the 10 to 15% error is quite acceptable for me. I'm not a pro player. The trade off for greater wear and tear is value added for me. However, I understand for pro and more competitive players, those kinds of error percentage are unacceptable.
Massive amounts of respect for being honest about this, especially as a business. Hopefully word get's round and some big YT roller reviewers see this. This needs to blow up. Crazy to think that Hypr (and others) are selling the hall effect mod for PS5 controllers too, and i imagine they're using the same model of hall effect seen in this vid...
Do you think the same can be said about 3rd party controllers like Gamesir G7 SE or snakebyte? Also what is it about the DS4 that makes it sound with the hall effect mod?
Thank you. They are the same just configured different for DS5 controllers. We can do the PS4 based controllers because we can calibrate them fully. I would imagine any 3rd party that has a calibration finction should work with these.
@@UberMicroRepairsDo you mean you calibrate them through software you mentioned in a couple of videos back? So would that mean you would need some similar type of software for the DS5 controller to get these to work properly?
Hypr "claims" they're using their own
Gamesir g7 se uses ksilver (dont know the model)
Unrelated but i got a kk3 max and after setting it up I calibrated it and got a 0% avg error. Love the controller so so much.
i had a hard time calibrating these. they 'jump' when calibrating. hopefully it's just this first batch. taking off the sensors and spinning the magnets around a bit made it easier to calibrate once it was installed on the controller.
perhaps using the "no drift" pads will add a little more resistance so that they don't 1.0 before hitting the outer edge? i will give it a try tonight.
Yeah loosening the magnet holder helps. However the Drift Fix boards ("no drift" pads) I wouldn't recommend using. We have never used them. They can centre the sticks but rob travel from the full range.
@@UberMicroRepairs High resistance trim pots rob less range, you know the problem your having now with massive Avg Error: % 3x3mm trim pots shrink that & the deadspot 🎯 size.
Absolute minimum shrink is about 0.7-8% using twin 1 million ohms resistance trim pots on 1 axis - & + sides.
The single 1 million method per axis shrinks circularity about 1.4-5%.
Circularity overshoot is only shown in the diagonal regions but it still exists in the N S E W positions because you're hitting 100 before the stick side reaches the case.
Trim pots shrink the range & fix that if the right combination resistance value is used.
The pre-populated fix boards are useless to me too for that reason I've used multiple single or double combinations to reach perfect 🎯🎯.
@@GOATGamerProSticksso wich product would be the best to calibrate New sticks bro ?
I hav this Problem, that the sticks dont go 100 percent
@@aditesto7918 That usually means you fitted a potentiometer with lower ohms ♎ resistance ⚡ value than the originals, or there slightly different on centre positioning.
I don't know what you're fitting them in but I've done extensive DS4 10K stick studies.
I've recently fitted 1M resistance 3×3mm trim pots in an Xbox one elite series 2 to tighten up the response curve outer circularity ⭕ & deadspot 🎯 size.
Dualsense uses 2K1 - 2K3 2100 - 2300 ohm's ♎ resistance potentiometer 🕹️ sides, higher than original provides scope for shrink adjustment that's what I've found on old style potentiometers.
I've not 🙅🏼♂️ touched hall effect magnetic 🧲 sticks yet just tried to theorise what the model numbers 🔢 & letters actually represent if there power demarcations or just batch codes 😂🤣😭 👨🏼🦯.
I can only wish for some illumination 💡🕯️😶🌫️🙈 on the new industrial secrets 🫣😉😜.
Drives me nuts.
Still what I have will probably help everyone, if you still need help you know where to find me...
@@aditesto7918 Multimeter test your originals if you still have them & ensure the new ones are slightly 🤏🏼 higher resistance.
I personally don't know of any method I've done to open the 100% range after the soldering point.
Just shifting the result with 2 off 1M resistance 3 × 3mm trim pots in the - / + of said Axis at a combined 2M fractional 🤏🏼 minimum shrink of around 0.7 - 0.8% on DS4 🎮 results.
Isn't there new versions of those? On the side of the hall effect module you can see the number of the PCB, L-4B seems to be the latest, some sellers address them as V5.
Also, there is firmware calibration tools as well. Those could help right? I like this video lots of attention to details.
🔥❤️🔥 also what do you recommend for a good Xbox series X controller??❤️🔥🔥
I would recommend a Series Elite 2. M$ warraty is very good. Add our upgraded 3rd party analog stick modules and upgraded LB/RB switches it's about the best controller out there!
@@UberMicroRepairs 🔥❤️🔥 I'm on a fixed income. I'm on social security. So I don't get much money to work with.❤️🔥🔥
What about these Jun's stabilization boards for hall analogs? Have you tried them? They're not cheap so I'll wait for alternatives before trying myself, but they seem to be quite effective.
Genuine question, does it matter if its hitting 100 percent early. I mean as long as as it hits 100 percent on all axis it should be okay because I don't think there's ever a need to use throttle sticks at less than 100 percent capacity. Don't think it will affect any gameplay.
Im thinking of using some of those centering potentiometers just to reduce the output velocity. Then doing the manual calibration on the stick itself. Just for fun. I did a video on these too and I wasn't too happy with them either.
We watched your video. Very well done. and subed. These hall effect in DS5 and Xbox controller just seem to miss the mark. If they took the time to refine them a little bit they would be acceptable.
Great video, looking forward to the standard analogue stick calibration tutorial video 👍
They aren't potentiometers. You can't use those. And everyone commenting.
For Xbox1 controllers there this guy named "Jun zeng " (on youtube) who has his link to aliexpress with a board that can help translate the signal and give a better reading and reducing the jiitter. In order to further calibrate these types, you need to push and the magnet and center then via the little holes to each side of the little plastic.
These are just simple and first iteration. Marius (on TH-cam has been working on his for over a year now. v2 available for PS4. (Xbox/switch/other soon with v3).
@Vizr. do you know if it fixes jitter by reducing the aiming resolution like gulikit does? I'm concerned those "translation" board just hide the issue using filters and built in deadzones. But I'm not sure...
Thanks for your videos, I was contemplating on buying these, so I'm really glad you tried them out. Have you found anymore reliable ones by chance, also what is that mounting setup you use for your controller boards? Thanks!
Apparently, there's a new version of the hall effect joystick. They have a red hall effect sensor board and have less jitter now.
What are your thoughts on these new versions of Hall effect sticks on the Xbox Series Controller and do hall effect sensors interfere with the hall effect sensors on the triggers?
Couldn't you sub in a custom printed ring for the outside with a slightly smaller dimension? That would bring the ring to the 100% for the censor
Yeah that is a posibility. Howevever it's not something I would consider doing. They either work correctly or they don't. These analogs in PS5 and Xbox controller have so much deveation at 100% we're not willing to use them untill a fix or better solution is found. We're working on it behind the scenes!
Did you ever make a video on how to calibrate these?
I was looking for a review on these. I was going to buy a pair for the switch pro controller...
Slap a precision ring on the thumb stick.. job done
No that's not the correct fix!
Have you seen the other kit that comes with a PCB sold by @junZeng-520? This seems like it would be a better way of dealing with calibration of the zero/max points of the stick.
Yes but he's selling them for like $50 (Canadian) he needs to or someone else needs to kindly make and share a pcb design to some company in China to mass produce cheaply 😂
@@1upnolan340 i mean sure, the price per unit is bad if you're repairing a single unit, but the listing on the aliexpress page suggests that this is targeted at repair shops that would buy in mass quantities at a much lower price
We are looking into these. However the price is a big limiting factor!
Was looking for this comment lol, really hope he or another reputable person takes a look at them 🙏
@@1upnolan340 whole heartedly agree with you it could be a major game changer, those boards need to get RE'd pronto lmao, the only thing I'm not clear on from his installation vids are why the middle pins get insulated and soldered to a pad on the PCB
Plz READ I just got one and when I try to put a PS4 disc inside it doesn't let me put it in sometimes it goes in but then doesn't read at all. I did software update and everything but the disc drive just doesn't let me put it in. Some when there's no disc inside it makes a noise like its trying to read or accept a disc even tho there's no disc inside PLS HELP!!!
Alright, you just need the board to fix the circularity and great!
Yep.
Great informative vid👍🏻 But what if someone could design some small ring inserts to fit into the shell casing? Not a 100% fix but would help with allround extra travel.😊 just an idea. What would be your solution? Keep up the the good stuff👍🏻👍🏻
Don't need a small ring insert, you should see what I've done in my pads 😁🤌🏼.
Where is the video explaining how you were calibrating them at 14 minutes mark?
Would you be able to make an in depth video or short on how to calibrate on a ps4 controller?
Amazing video, you truly have an amazing channel. Question, those little height tabs you durned during remove, do they play any role here? I noticed the hall sticks didn't have anything and they sit flush to the board.
They do play a part specially on PS4 controllers. They help determine the max range.
Damn. That calibration took a helluva lot of finicky fine tuning. 😅
Sometimes you get them first time bang on.
My first pad was like that.
The next 4 pads were a nightmare.
Also the first two sensors perfect no slop on the return to center.
All the rest did have.
Thanks for the video, great quality content!
Much appreciated!
Great video. Thank you for sharing 😊
Thanks for watching!
I play a lot Call of Duty games with a Scuf Instinct (xbox) controller and i change analogs with the version from PS5, after that i notice that gap (empty space), but in game that is nothing special and you will not notice any of that gap when playing. Just normal like before.
The new v3 have no jitter anymore. Should try it
Is no flux needed for this? I’m looking to do this myself but I’m a beginner to soldering and see some people use flux. I understand the basics to soldering though. And also what temp should you set your iron and heat gun when doing this?
Flux... LOTS of flux!! Too much flux is just enough.. Specialy if you are new to soldering. Hotair to remove the sticks @ 395c and 50% air flow. To solder in the new sticks, LOTS of flux (if you are new) and temp around 350c- ish! Did I mention lots of flux. Leaded solder too!
BTW lots of flux! 99% IPA & cotton buds to clean it up.
FLUX...
Lot's
OF...
FLUX!
🔥❤️🔥 I have really bad stick drift with my factory Xbox series X controller. Im trying to find a fix or should I just buy a brand new controller??❤️🔥🔥
Buying a new controller will fix stick drift every time 😜I would check if it's in warraty first though.
So before I rip apart an old dualshock 4, would you recommend the hall effect joysticks for the dualshock 4?
Yes
What software he used to test controller?
He uses: hardwaretester.com/gamepad 😂
hi can you recommen a good hall efect gimbles for ps4 controllers dual shock
Had you look at the newer versions for PS5 yet ? Cheeres
Yep, looked at them all!
Thank for your video. Do you buy calibrator-pcb for this 3d analog?
It's in the works.
@@UberMicroRepairs can't wait to see 🙏
It's very unfortunate that we dont have any hardware calibration tool for these original controllers. It's kind of a right to repair issue, isn't it? Being able to replace old sticks with drift with new ones and then be able to actually calibrate it perfectly like OEM?
We will be releasing a service soon to over come this calibration issue.
So what do you think is the Best Brand to use of Stick Mods?
Which are the best joysticks for Xbox controllers?
I'm replaced mine with these trash hall effect ones and even after calibration, their performance was terrible.
Whats the best way to calibrate new sticks, without loosing so much of the range ?
I found out a way to adjust these sticks to minimize the outer dead zone almost as to original value. Without any additional software or hardware. And the jitter also goes away with my mod.
can you show us how ?
is there any possibility to put these into LT and RT?
Have you tried to make on PC quick circular moves (about 8 times) or just quick left-right 10 times? Mine new analog stick in XSX controller keep 'crashing' and only solution is reconnecting controller. Strange
How do u know how they perform without testing without playing a game? Maybe they work fine. Lab tests don't always show everything.
It's so annoying that we as customers have to struggle to fix such a huge flaw from Sony's product. Retro fitting stick from with manual calibration obviously has flaws, but Sony could easily spend some R&D budget to fix this fundamentally broken piece of hardware as the technology already exists to do so. Why would they? People will buy new new controllers when excessive stick drift develops (as in mine). They'll even sell you controllers with user replaceable sticks for insane amount of money instead of fixing those in the first place. I refuse to accept a piece of hardware such as this being a consumable simply because it slightly cuts costs and makes Sony even more money (which with their recent greedy moves almost makes it look like it's intentional). Very good overview. One thing I didn't got from the video is how do those feel? I mean, normal analogs have very bad "stickiness" until you overcome the initial friction making the thing feel grindy and unprecise in really fine movements around deadzone. How do those replacement sticks feel? I would assume there is no additional friction, as there is no potentiometers so should be much smoother - right?
Same feeling as a dreamcast controller, if this could help.
From what I'm seeing hall effects have a circularity issue when used with thumbsticks. 😕
Could you try with the ps4 stick caps? I've used them on one of my ps5 controller, and they've reduced travel distance by 8~10%.
Sorry, but how does that “gap” effect game play? I’ve used Hall Effect controllers and have never experienced an “outer” dead zone. I’ve never had an experience where I’ve push the analog stick to it’s max in any direction and had the character just stand there. Is there something I’m missing?
Thank you for the information
How do you calibrate/centre normal analog joysticks without using any potentiometers/trimmers please?
Do you have any traditional potentiometer based replacement analogs that you recommend?
ALPS or FAVOR UNION
These can be calbrated useing the hole what the yellow plastic has use thin pointed tweezers pull in opersite direction from drift while slightly pushing down should correct drift showing on calabration dot
He's know this.
That's not what he is showing.
He says the thumb stickhas 100% movement
But the hall sensors is well over 100% but nothing can understand that info so it messes up the movement.
The last 0-20% throw is just all 100% as far as the pc or console is concerned.
And the issue isn't even that dead zone.
It's the inconsistency of them.
@@TheWebstaff will probably just purchase a kingkong pro 2 controller & adapter what can support any controller
Correct. There is about 20% total dead zone on the outer travel.
@@UberMicroRepairs you seen the news about elite 2 getting configuration options in the config app for hall sensor support?
I saw this kind of joystick and I hesitate to buy it ! What do you think ?
Thanks for this very informational video. I have replaced my analog sticks with hall effect sticks on my xbox one controller. When I now press the left trigger, my left analog moves a bit because of the magnet from the trigger sensor. Do you had this problem too?
Same, any fix?
@@DzaceQ I applies some eletric tape between the trigger magnet and the hall effect magnet. It is a bit better but still not completly gone. Why does nobody else have this problem?
Do you think you could test the HYPR hall effect ps5 controller?
What are those orange things that are holding the PCB board? I want to buy those.
what temperatures do you use on the hot air station to remove the solder?
I used zens hall effect sensor and pcb and they were good but i wanna try these, can i use his pcb on these hall effects (Gunits i believe the orange are called) to calibrate the outer and inner thresholds?
I have a question whether if I buy an analogue with the hall effect and change it, it will work normally or not, apart from calibration because it has to be done anyway, I mean the Xbox Series X controller, please answer me and where I can buy analogues with hall effect for xbox
Why is the circularity reduced after putting back to its case?
Because the stick cap rides on the shell. Outside the shell the stick over extends.
is there a solution for that? I don't have this issue on my ds4 with hall effect@@UberMicroRepairs
Do you also did it on Xbox Series Elite 2 Controller? :)
Yes, We've tested all the HE analogs and calibration boards on all controllers. Results are less than ideal TBH! The benchmark is factory default and even then all fall short so far! We are always looking to improve and give feedback to manufactures. Keep an eye out on out community page for updates on controller we offer HE analog upgrades to!!
Hi! I have Elite Seriese 2 controller, but it right joystick has stick drift. I want to change it with Hall Effect joy stick. Should i do it and where i can buy Hall Effect Stick? any general hall effect joystick will work? Please let me know
I’ve seen on Ali there’s two types of halls for the ps5. Yellow as these and the blues that are a little more expensive. Have you tested those or any thoughts on?
The $10-$15 TMR ones are basically perfect after calibrating with software. Barely 3% error on circularity and the range seems to be spot on.
Can you miss match this ps5 or ps4 analog hall effect for xbox one s controller? Apparently in my country there is no xbox version 😢
Is there anyway to adjust the windows 11 auto deadzone without ds4? I just got a gamesir t4 pro with hal effect and there's an enormous deadzone. Seeing this, I'm guessing it's windows. I calibrated in usb game controllers,... that did nothing. Dud the same in steam, with no effect.
Is the circularity error effect the game play ? i play fps game( like Call of duty, apex,...) with controller so I need a lot accuracy, thank you
Just wondering but is it possible to put these in a scuf controller since they seem to get stick drift a lot.
I just opened new PS5 controller and it's having drift problems
random question mate, do you repair the back buttons on battle beavers?
Yes we do.
btw 23:12 on xbox one can do full analog range
No point, because installing raw HE analog sticks WILL NOT give proper range. That is why you need the calibration boards. Or spend time working out how to calibrate them properly.
@@UberMicroRepairs i can send to u video for prove , give me ur e-email , btw keep in ur mind when u try to calibrate sometime the potentiometer stuck u have to open it and make it n the center its tricky u can feel analog stop working but its not another advice when analog up "calibrate " dont push it down just go up with ur analog and use same hole up to calibrate , i calibrate analog in 3 seconds same as right and left , if ur analog up go up if down go down , now there is v3.0 hall effect without jitter
Isn't there a flash tool for it like with ps4 controller?
Any news on Marius' hall sticks? 🤔
They are in the works.
Sorry fur question but Is it possible to put this hall effect stick to xbox elite series 2 controller?
Not yet.
Yes I have put them in a Elite 2, but it also has the outer deadzone
@@Mossige89 that’s cool, i want to do the same, but if you can make please video how it works and feels in gamepadtester
@@rwby1337 I have uploaded a clip of it on gamepad tester 👍
based@@Mossige89
I think you are missing the point on why we want these. The original analogs are crap within a year, I have 2, and from my understanding, the hall effects wont get drift after just 6 months. I would be super happy to deal with a slightly less range to get more than a year use out of a $75 controller.
No you won't. Unless you only play very simple games, these sticks are garbage.
They're not precise enough for shooters, racing games or even sports games.
You'll loose your mind with these...