Thanks so much. I plan on doing this to my 20 year old Rockhopper next week and give it a try before dropping money on a new bike. BTY, I had the same Trek 1000, bought back in 1990 back in the day.
Yo RJ. Every time I look up a "how to" when I'm working on my bike, I always find your videos. I can't count the number of times your videos have helped me out. I love learning to work on my own bike, and I've been able to save a ton of money restoring my 90's road bike from the ground up, thanks to your videos.
2:10 Before Dremeling the old stem, probably going to want to work it loose from the forks. On old bikes the quill stem probably isn't going to slide right out 2:46 this easy. Once you Dremel and break the bars out, it's going to be even more difficult to work the stem loose from the bike. Very glad this video was here. It was a helpful eye opener to the process.
Other than Saving Time, i couldn't really understand WHY he Mullored the Old Stem, i Love Working on my Bikes, and the Longer it takes the more Enjoyment i have.
Great video and instructions. I just replaced the quill from my 35 year old Cannondale. I used these instructions, but I have one comment. I couldn't break the old stem with a screwdriver opening it. My handlebar diameter are butted down from 1" to .875", so I was able to slide the handlebars to the smaller area and I used a pair of slip-jaw pliers to collapse the old stem, which easily snapped. Thanks for giving me the confidence to permanently "wreck" a piece of my old bike! The entire process took about 30 minutes, which included getting out the tools, setting up the work area, and putting it all away after.
This video helped out so much. I was freaking out cause I have a threaded stem and I was afraid I was going to have to buy the fork, spacers, etc. Which would cost me a fortune but now that I see how simple this is I'd only have to spend around 80$ or less :D
You've helped me again. Saved my 28 year old Cannondale Criterium frame that was used as a triathlon bike with old goose neck and Profile Aero III bars and updated and converted it to a gravel bike with Ultegra 6700 groupset and Mavic Kysrium wheels.
I made this modification to a vintage bike. It helped me to figure out the best stem length for that bike. Now that I know the best stem length was 80mm, I bought a deda elementi quill stem, with bolts to undo a face plate! - underneath. It looks way better than the quill stem adapter and stem combo!
Love the 1000 aluminum series of Trek bikes, they are workhorse bikes. I have a Trek 1420 and a Trek 1400. I did the same thing to my 1420 going to a threadless stem just because I wanted to keep the reach that was recommended to me at a bike fit. Good job, your videos are invaluable.
Enjoyed the vid, after some researching i finally found what i was seeking. I purchased an older bike and i also wanted to upgrade the stem and handle bars. Im glade i stopped to view ur vid because you basically went over the details required to complete the upgrade thx for sharing! 👍
Hey R.J. I needed a tutorial on how to use threadless stem adapters on my Ross 14 speed, which needs 20.8. And there are 20.8 adapters. So here, you cover how to do it. Thanks. Great series.
I'm going to be "that" guy. I was told to avoid putting grease on the quill, just spread it around in the fork so you reduce the risk of grease getting between the stem and clamping area on the adapter. I saw you put grease on the quill adapter then slide the stem onto the adapter, if not careful you can get grease underneath the stem which might cause it to slide loose. I really like your videos. I probably watch at least one a week, even if I'm not farting around on my bikes.
I was having this very issue we’re the whole headset was moving without moving the fork with slight blunt force. I ended up wiping the grease off the tip and tightening the heavens out the the quail adapter
I were agonizing between threaded and threadless forks (considering to replace threaded coil suspension forks on kids tourer). I were thinking I have to choose version when buying forks but now I see I can get threaded version and reuse existing headset and adjustable threaded stem (which has detachable faceplate). If I ever would want to go for threadless stem I would only need this adapter thing. Thank you again!
I've used these adapters in the past and can be found on e-bay for like 5-10 bucks. Just change one on a Trek 3500 that has a threaded 1 inch. But I put on a Hussefelt stem and handlebar. Oh ya bad ass bike now!
Old school style quill stems look a lot nicer if you want the bike to look vintage but so much easier to get the bar where you want 'em if you can play with different lengths, rises, flip 'em, etc.
Bike "mechanic": Yeah, gonna have to unwrap the bars, remove all the brake/shifter cables & housing, remove a brake lever and then slide the bar out RJ: dremmle mek stem go brrrrrrrrr
When I saw you cut the stem, I cried. I am trying to reverse my upgraded vintage bike back to its original state, but I have difficulty to get a quill stem. :D
@@RJTheBikeGuyYep, but they'll get more expensive the rarer they get;va situation not helped by you wrecking a perfectly usable component. What a waste.
@@TheMusicrunner Presumably when he does a video on changing a tyre he'll bin the whole wheel as he can't be bothered to remove the old one and the tube! The point is it was totally wasteful and lazy.
Great videos sir and nice trek 1000. My first road was early 90s 1000, it was too big so sold it and got 2005 trek 1000c. Had it for 4 years and recently sold it. Now have 2013 1.5 trek. had a few other steel and alum road bikes which some i sold to friends (that got into cycling) and some online. I've always liked the trek designs n geometry. I hope you keep posting "how to videos" there really helpful. Ignore all the negative comments, they have nothing better to do than self-destruct. We call them haters. ✌
Nice and clear, thanks. About to replace the awful adjustable quill stem on my dad's hybrid and replace with with a threadless one. Not a job I've needed to do before and will probably never need to do it again.
great video.I have some butterfly bars i have on my new bike which i find are convienient for hand positions and for putting mirrors etc.The old bike is a similar stem to this where have to slide the bars out.I can do this as they are straight bars but thanks for showing the process and for the stem adaptors.Anyone criticizing should go and pay a bike mechanic instead of moaning about free advice.
Thanks, it worked pretty well here. The only thing is, my old stem was one of those with the front brake cable going through it, so I had to cut the the thick tip of the cable and disconnect it from the triangle before going on with the procedure. I had some trouble to put the cable back, but that's because I'm inexperienced, but I somewhat managed it.
Adjustable threaded quill stem is also a good idea, it's a bit heavier and a bit more expensive but it allows to adjust position at any time with just an allen wrench.
Hey RJ I just came across this video. Great video. I have a vintage Schwinn Le Tour that needs some Wheels front and back. Can you recommend a set of wheels for me that will be appropriate size and and good strength with being to pricey. Everywhere I look everybody only has 700 size wheels.
I'll add a comment , as... , why not.. my stem is too short so looking for options on a commuter rather than a roadbike. If we use these adaptors can the stem be raised. With a quill for example you can pull it up out of the frame a bit. With modern fork \ headsets you can mess about with spacers. These adaptors do not have any vertical adjustment capable ?
Vintage bikes have handlebar stems that are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm in diameter. Where did he get a threadless stem adapter that would accommodate one of these handlebars? I haven't seen a current model stem adapter that is anything but 31.8mm. He should have spent some time on this question.
My mistake! I meant to say that vintage handlebars are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm (old Cinelli standard) in diameter and that the only modern stems I'd seen only accept 31.8mm handlebars. After my comment, with a little more research, I found that some companies do make a threadless handlebar stem that accepts 26.0mm handlebars. And, of course, there are shims that will allow a 26.0mm handlebar to be used with a threadless stem that is intended for handlebars with a 31.8mm diameter. I need to reread my posts more carefully in the future. I have an excellent handlebar from the early '90s that I would like to use if possible. Its diameter is 26.4mm and I wonder if a threadless stem intended for 31.8mm handlebars would accept this handlebar plus shims that would increase the effective handlebar diameter to maybe 32.0mm would be practical. Any thoughts?
To further clarify: I'm talking about shims that are intended for a 26.0mm bar that bring the bar's effective diameter to 31.8mm. With a bar that has a 26.4mm diameter, the shims would bring the effective diameter to, maybe, 32.0mm.
I have had good success preventing galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum by applying Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. It goes on brown and sticky and does not dry out.
If anything happens with my old foldie's stem or headtube, I might have to do this. Good to know that this specific Profile Design adapter still exists 11 years later! There are cheaper Chinese-made adapters, but would you really trust those in exchange for being slightly more expensive?
LBS: it'll take us a little while to do this, we gotta untape it and take the brake levers off, install it and then redo all the tape and levers... RJ: I got this dremmel tool...
Hello, as explained in other of your videos, I am designing a tilting rickshaw,... in the past I have had to deal with bicycles where it was almost impossible to keep the alignment of the wheel with the handlebar.... the question is, as in my design this part is subjected to stronger stress... (perhaps 10 times more)... how would you suggest to proceed, so to prevent loosing the alignment of the assembly... (the part in this case will be located in the rear of the vehicle, some 40 cm away from the bottom bracket)
Great video! Could I use this adapter plus threadless stem to secure the old threaded headset with worn-out threads on the lowest of the two threaded headset rings? Bearings are still fine, so don't want to replace the whole headset. (So what I actually want is to secure the old fork and headset almost in the way a normal threadless fork and headset are being secured.)
If I want to have the stem raised, are there spacers that fit on the 1" part of the stem adaptor? I find the idea of having a modern 1 1/8" stem tapering down to 1" part kinda ugly
when I install a quill adapter I insert a shim that has slits into it that goes over the adapter but I put the spacers on it first. then I insert the adapter and place another shim into the stem fitting. doing it this way helps the adapter grip the inside of the forks steerer tube a lot better so the bars wont twist that easy.
Would you be able to put spacers under the stem in order to raise the height? As it stands, it's a bit too low for me on my bike, or would the best be to get a stem that has a lot of rise in it?
My bike is 22.2...with the smallest diameter handlebar. The old handlebars are 25 something and the nee bikes have much much thicker....my question is how much beer should I have to make my 90's trek be compatable with the new threadless stems.
That's a good tip.. Just cut that old stem.. Why save it.. when you got no use for it..plus spent extra dollars for new tape and all the extra hassle ? Just cut the thing!
Would anyone know if this same measurements would apply to the 93 crisscross schwinn? i don’t know how to measure it and can’t find info online. thanks for any help and awesome video !
Also how would you use spacers on a setup like this that still has the old cone bearings and nuts that don't really look that aesthetic than the newer more streamlined retaining nut that is tapered. It seems the spacers would flop over the nut and be a huge mess.
It's a Bontrager. It came from another of my bikes when I replaced the stem. I think I originally got it at my local bike shop. Check ebay. You can get stems there pretty cheap.
Hello, I NEED HELP. I did this, but the adapter keeps moving. What I mean is that if I put the front wheel between my legs and try to turn the handlebar, the steering will move. How can I fix this? P.D. I bought the proper size threadless stem adapter
@@RJTheBikeGuy i tried a different nut and bolt from the old quill stem, and also i tightened as strong as I was able to. It seems like it wont go anywhere, thank you!
dude your videos are great thanks for all the help.got a restoration of my own and hope it looks as good as your does when its finished keep up the good work
Nice work! Mine is an alloy Trek Alpha Series 1000 (circa late 90's, early millennia) that I'm converting to disc brakes. I saw your video with the adapters, but if a fork with tabs can be used, it's preferable to adapters. Understandably, newer headsets are thicker now, but was wondering if you had any ideas about marrying new forks to an older frame?
hey men . Just bought a stem converter in 1inch an 1.1/8 but it doesn't fit in my fork because the diameter of the fork is 1inch too so i think that i need a 22,5 mm to 25,4 mm converter no ???
What do you do when the adaptor is longer than the head tube, and you need spacers, but normal 1 1/8" spacers are too big on the bottom part of the adaptor?
Hi, great video! May I ask though, would a black powder coated adapter be more resistant to said galvanic corrosion compared to a polished one like what you used?
Does the upgrade including the new adapter weigh more than the original quill stem did? Im thinking of doing this to a 2000 Trek 1000 road bike that has a quill stem and havent decided what I'm doing just yet. What size and angle is the new stem your using in the video? I'll be converting to flat bars on this bike, so I still need to figure out whats going to work best.
I would love to keep my quill stem, and replace the threaded fork, but I find it very hard to find 1 inch threaded fork, regardless it is carbon or steel or aluminium. Can I perhaps make a threadless to threaded?
Hi rj the bike guy. Which one is better? This stem adapter or replacing your headset and Converting it to threadless headset. I already watch your video doing a conversation on threadless headset. And also I'm planning to buy a new fork to my vintage mtb.
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What kind of stem did you use?
Thanks so much. I plan on doing this to my 20 year old Rockhopper next week and give it a try before dropping money on a new bike. BTY, I had the same Trek 1000, bought back in 1990 back in the day.
What is exactly fit in that 22.2mm front adapter stem, what size of handle stem that fit that my bike is bmx
Hi RJ....can one paint his cassets is it safe
@@ofentsemodisanehybridathle4896 Probably not a good idea.
Yo RJ. Every time I look up a "how to" when I'm working on my bike, I always find your videos. I can't count the number of times your videos have helped me out. I love learning to work on my own bike, and I've been able to save a ton of money restoring my 90's road bike from the ground up, thanks to your videos.
What I do is add RJ bike guy to my search because he for will have a video on what you are looking for 😂
2:10 Before Dremeling the old stem, probably going to want to work it loose from the forks. On old bikes the quill stem probably isn't going to slide right out 2:46 this easy. Once you Dremel and break the bars out, it's going to be even more difficult to work the stem loose from the bike. Very glad this video was here. It was a helpful eye opener to the process.
Other than Saving Time, i couldn't really understand WHY he Mullored the Old Stem, i Love Working on my Bikes, and the Longer it takes the more Enjoyment i have.
Great video and instructions. I just replaced the quill from my 35 year old Cannondale. I used these instructions, but I have one comment. I couldn't break the old stem with a screwdriver opening it. My handlebar diameter are butted down from 1" to .875", so I was able to slide the handlebars to the smaller area and I used a pair of slip-jaw pliers to collapse the old stem, which easily snapped. Thanks for giving me the confidence to permanently "wreck" a piece of my old bike! The entire process took about 30 minutes, which included getting out the tools, setting up the work area, and putting it all away after.
I would have preferred not to destroy the old stem. But it was that or trash the handlebar tape which was relatively new.
Old style quill stems - one of the most beautiful parts of a vintage bicycle.
Yuck. (Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.)
I agree...
Beautiful? Yeah. Just as beautiful as they are useless
Yes, especially those Cinelli and Nitto quill stems.
The new one is uglier
This video helped out so much. I was freaking out cause I have a threaded stem and I was afraid I was going to have to buy the fork, spacers, etc. Which would cost me a fortune but now that I see how simple this is I'd only have to spend around 80$ or less :D
You've helped me again. Saved my 28 year old Cannondale Criterium frame that was used as a triathlon bike with old goose neck and Profile Aero III bars and updated and converted it to a gravel bike with Ultegra 6700 groupset and Mavic Kysrium wheels.
Mavic Ksyrium gang here!
I made this modification to a vintage bike. It helped me to figure out the best stem length for that bike. Now that I know the best stem length was 80mm, I bought a deda elementi quill stem, with bolts to undo a face plate! - underneath. It looks way better than the quill stem adapter and stem combo!
Love the 1000 aluminum series of Trek bikes, they are workhorse bikes. I have a Trek 1420 and a Trek 1400. I did the same thing to my 1420 going to a threadless stem just because I wanted to keep the reach that was recommended to me at a bike fit. Good job, your videos are invaluable.
Enjoyed the vid, after some researching i finally found what i was seeking. I purchased an older bike and i also wanted to upgrade the stem and handle bars. Im glade i stopped to view ur vid because you basically went over the details required to complete the upgrade thx for sharing! 👍
Hey R.J. I needed a tutorial on how to use threadless stem adapters on my Ross 14 speed, which needs 20.8. And there are 20.8 adapters. So here, you cover how to do it. Thanks. Great series.
The best of both worlds: The adjustability of a quill stem and the convenience of thread-less stem. Good video.
I'm going to be "that" guy. I was told to avoid putting grease on the quill, just spread it around in the fork so you reduce the risk of grease getting between the stem and clamping area on the adapter. I saw you put grease on the quill adapter then slide the stem onto the adapter, if not careful you can get grease underneath the stem which might cause it to slide loose. I really like your videos. I probably watch at least one a week, even if I'm not farting around on my bikes.
I was having this very issue we’re the whole headset was moving without moving the fork with slight blunt force. I ended up wiping the grease off the tip and tightening the heavens out the the quail adapter
I were agonizing between threaded and threadless forks (considering to replace threaded coil suspension forks on kids tourer). I were thinking I have to choose version when buying forks but now I see I can get threaded version and reuse existing headset and adjustable threaded stem (which has detachable faceplate). If I ever would want to go for threadless stem I would only need this adapter thing. Thank you again!
I watch you changing the stem 10 times and I did it on my cannondale cad 3 now it looks really cool thanks.
I've used these adapters in the past and can be found on e-bay for like 5-10 bucks. Just change one on a Trek 3500 that has a threaded 1 inch. But I put on a Hussefelt stem and handlebar. Oh ya bad ass bike now!
Old school style quill stems look a lot nicer if you want the bike to look vintage but so much easier to get the bar where you want 'em if you can play with different lengths, rises, flip 'em, etc.
Dude, thanks for all the videos. I stumbled on your channel a few days ago, and have found it to be an amazing resource! Keep it up!
I know this is 10 years old, but still a valid video. The end result looks great and gives added capability. Good show.
Bike "mechanic": Yeah, gonna have to unwrap the bars, remove all the brake/shifter cables & housing, remove a brake lever and then slide the bar out
RJ: dremmle mek stem go brrrrrrrrr
Love seeing your videos pop up on searches; always learn a bunch. Thanks!
thank soo much for this i have been trying other vids but they were not clear and i learnt well from you i really apriecate it thanks!!
Been wondering if this is possible/how to do it, looks like it's actually pretty easy! Thanks for the video!
Its very easy. Too easy honestly.
I got 3 of those old white Ritchey saddles , love 'em
Thanks for the tutorial, I think I will use such an adaptor for my next project too, because it offers you a wide range of flared gravel bike dropbars
When I saw you cut the stem, I cried. I am trying to reverse my upgraded vintage bike back to its original state, but I have difficulty to get a quill stem. :D
ebay. Lots of them.
@@RJTheBikeGuyYep, but they'll get more expensive the rarer they get;va situation not helped by you wrecking a perfectly usable component. What a waste.
You can find an endless amount of quill stems for 5-20 bucks used. New ones from 25 ->. Really don’t see the problem
@@TheMusicrunner Presumably when he does a video on changing a tyre he'll bin the whole wheel as he can't be bothered to remove the old one and the tube!
The point is it was totally wasteful and lazy.
@@Penfold-zr2be Well, the other option is to waste the bar tape which is more expensive so...
Great videos sir and nice trek 1000. My first road was early 90s 1000, it was too big so sold it and got 2005 trek 1000c. Had it for 4 years and recently sold it. Now have 2013 1.5 trek. had a few other steel and alum road bikes which some i sold to friends (that got into cycling) and some online. I've always liked the trek designs n geometry. I hope you keep posting "how to videos" there really helpful. Ignore all the negative comments, they have nothing better to do than self-destruct. We call them haters. ✌
And you're actually wearing shoes in this one! Good work, RJ ;-)
Nice and clear, thanks. About to replace the awful adjustable quill stem on my dad's hybrid and replace with with a threadless one. Not a job I've needed to do before and will probably never need to do it again.
I always want to say thanks your videos are so helpful and interesting.
great video.I have some butterfly bars i have on my new bike which i find are convienient for hand positions and for putting mirrors etc.The old bike is a similar stem to this where have to slide the bars out.I can do this as they are straight bars but thanks for showing the process and for the stem adaptors.Anyone criticizing should go and pay a bike mechanic instead of moaning about free advice.
Thanks, it worked pretty well here. The only thing is, my old stem was one of those with the front brake cable going through it, so I had to cut the the thick tip of the cable and disconnect it from the triangle before going on with the procedure. I had some trouble to put the cable back, but that's because I'm inexperienced, but I somewhat managed it.
I love how just sawed the old one off. I really didn't want to go through all that unwrapping!
Some people were irritated that I cut the stem. The tape would have cost $15-20 to replace. And I didn't really care about the stem.
RJ The Bike Guy Those fools have never watched a youtube video of someone unwrapping bar tape, then rewrap it, or even done it themsleves :P
Perfect video, thanks! Please take no notice of the negative comments, let them waste their time anally retaining an obsolete piece.
Adjustable threaded quill stem is also a good idea, it's a bit heavier and a bit more expensive but it allows to adjust position at any time with just an allen wrench.
Is it still just a quill stem that looks like a thread less head set? Looks to still lock in place just like a quill stem!
It mounts like a quill stem, but allows the use of a threadless stem.
RJ The Bike Guy thank you for replying! Thinking about doing this to a Nishiki 10 speed!
Hey RJ I just came across this video. Great video. I have a vintage Schwinn Le Tour that needs some Wheels front and back. Can you recommend a set of wheels for me that will be appropriate size and and good strength with being to pricey. Everywhere I look everybody only has 700 size wheels.
I have a 1989 Trek 1200. I need to do this. Trying to remove old pedals and they are stuck. Any videos on how to do that? Thank you.
th-cam.com/video/Tia5y9kfVk0/w-d-xo.html
RJ The Bike Guy thank you!
just bought the exact same model bike from craigslist! very help video, thanks
hello sir are you going to fix those trek & haro mtb ?
The Trek frame was toast. I parted it out. The Haro at some point, yes.
What are advanfages and disadvanfages of threadless stem over quill stem?
I'll add a comment , as... , why not..
my stem is too short so looking for options on a commuter rather than a roadbike. If we use these adaptors can the stem be raised. With a quill for example you can pull it up out of the frame a bit. With modern fork \ headsets you can mess about with spacers. These adaptors do not have any vertical adjustment capable ?
Vintage bikes have handlebar stems that are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm in diameter. Where did he get a threadless stem adapter that would accommodate one of these handlebars? I haven't seen a current model stem adapter that is anything but 31.8mm. He should have spent some time on this question.
The adapter doesn't connect to the handlebars. It's the threadless stem. They make threadless stems for 25.4 and 26mm. Not sure about 26.4.
My mistake! I meant to say that vintage handlebars are 25.4-26.0-26.4mm (old Cinelli standard) in diameter and that the only modern stems I'd seen only accept 31.8mm handlebars. After my comment, with a little more research, I found that some companies do make a threadless handlebar stem that accepts 26.0mm handlebars. And, of course, there are shims that will allow a 26.0mm handlebar to be used with a threadless stem that is intended for handlebars with a 31.8mm diameter.
I need to reread my posts more carefully in the future.
I have an excellent handlebar from the early '90s that I would like to use if possible. Its diameter is 26.4mm and I wonder if a threadless stem intended for 31.8mm handlebars would accept this handlebar plus shims that would increase the effective handlebar diameter to maybe 32.0mm would be practical. Any thoughts?
To further clarify: I'm talking about shims that are intended for a 26.0mm bar that bring the bar's effective diameter to 31.8mm. With a bar that has a 26.4mm diameter, the shims would bring the effective diameter to, maybe, 32.0mm.
Find a solution, or use a different handlebar.
how do I know the threadless stem fit on my bike?
I have had good success preventing galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum by applying Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. It goes on brown and sticky and does not dry out.
What is advantage of threadless stem over quill stem?
thanks so much! just bought myself an old apollo raceline, and am in desperate need of a shorter and higher stem. This answered all my questions.
If anything happens with my old foldie's stem or headtube, I might have to do this.
Good to know that this specific Profile Design adapter still exists 11 years later! There are cheaper Chinese-made adapters, but would you really trust those in exchange for being slightly more expensive?
I bought the wrong size . Can I grind my 25.4 mm to 22.2?
Um, no. That is a lot of material removed. The stem, if there is any left, would not be safe.
Hi can I replace the grease with oil I'm very poor?
LBS: it'll take us a little while to do this, we gotta untape it and take the brake levers off, install it and then redo all the tape and levers...
RJ: I got this dremmel tool...
Hello, as explained in other of your videos, I am designing a tilting rickshaw,... in the past I have had to deal with bicycles where it was almost impossible to keep the alignment of the wheel with the handlebar.... the question is, as in my design this part is subjected to stronger stress... (perhaps 10 times more)... how would you suggest to proceed, so to prevent loosing the alignment of the assembly... (the part in this case will be located in the rear of the vehicle, some 40 cm away from the bottom bracket)
Great video!
Could I use this adapter plus threadless stem to secure the old threaded headset with worn-out threads on the lowest of the two threaded headset rings? Bearings are still fine, so don't want to replace the whole headset. (So what I actually want is to secure the old fork and headset almost in the way a normal threadless fork and headset are being secured.)
If I want to have the stem raised, are there spacers that fit on the 1" part of the stem adaptor? I find the idea of having a modern 1 1/8" stem tapering down to 1" part kinda ugly
How do I know what size of stem to buy?
Buy one to match the diameter of the adapter, the diameter of the handlebars, and then the length and angle is your personal preferece.
When you inserted it and screwed it in it wasn’t connected to anything in the fork so what’s stopping the handlebar from flying out
Will a 1 inch thread less stem adaptor
Thanks for the run through
Updating an old Bridgestone
Can you put a spacer below the stem with this kind of adaptor?
Maybe.
when I install a quill adapter I insert a shim that has slits into it that goes over the adapter but I put the spacers on it first. then I insert the adapter and place another shim into the stem fitting. doing it this way helps the adapter grip the inside of the forks steerer tube a lot better so the bars wont twist that easy.
Would you be able to put spacers under the stem in order to raise the height? As it stands, it's a bit too low for me on my bike, or would the best be to get a stem that has a lot of rise in it?
Spacers don't fit well on most of these. But you can raise it like a regular quill stem. It just looks goofy.
My bike is 22.2...with the smallest diameter handlebar. The old handlebars are 25 something and the nee bikes have much much thicker....my question is how much beer should I have to make my 90's trek be compatable with the new threadless stems.
That's a good tip..
Just cut that old stem..
Why save it.. when you got no use for it..plus spent extra dollars for new tape and all the extra hassle ?
Just cut the thing!
allis common sense there
Can i change the top cap?
Probably not safely.
Would anyone know if this same measurements would apply to the 93 crisscross schwinn? i don’t know how to measure it and can’t find info online. thanks for any help and awesome video !
Also how would you use spacers on a setup like this that still has the old cone bearings and nuts that don't really look that aesthetic than the newer more streamlined retaining nut that is tapered. It seems the spacers would flop over the nut and be a huge mess.
can you tell me what kind of stem &where you got it? Thank you.
It's a Bontrager. It came from another of my bikes when I replaced the stem. I think I originally got it at my local bike shop. Check ebay. You can get stems there pretty cheap.
thank you .Great videos!
RJ, the Stem terminator !
Thanks for this. Gonna probably buy a cheap MTB with a quill stem, then replace it and change the forks!
is there a solution for extending threadless 1 inch fork steerers internally?
Hello, I NEED HELP. I did this, but the adapter keeps moving. What I mean is that if I put the front wheel between my legs and try to turn the handlebar, the steering will move. How can I fix this? P.D. I bought the proper size threadless stem adapter
Either the adapter is not tightened properly, or the threadless stem is not tightened, or you have the wrong sized something.
@@RJTheBikeGuy i tried a different nut and bolt from the old quill stem, and also i tightened as strong as I was able to. It seems like it wont go anywhere, thank you!
That awesome, I have no idea they made that adapter.
Is it important to take it apart every now and then to clean and apply fresh grease? if so how often should that be done?
If it feels rough, slow, loose, or whatever. Maybe if the bike is just old.
can we convert ahead stem to quill?
No.
does this only work with the handle bars or can you have a threadless fork in there?
Did you get sick breathing in the aluminum dust?
www.rjthebikeguy.com/faq/
You are the best RJ !! Hey could I at the same time install a new head set for thread less steerer tube? as a 1" head set right?
Great video, thanks RJ. Can you (or anybody) provide a link or name for that white rear-wheel support you are using to keep the bike upright?
Not really. It's an indoor trainer with the resistance part removed. Some one discarded it, and I claimed it.
Ha! Not surprising based on some of your other videos. Thanks for the response. Best wishes this holiday season!
Hi RJ the Bike Guy, I do not have a dremel tool , do you think a mini hack saw will cut the stem?
What kind of grease did you use/recommend?
+Zalenski I typically use marine grease which doesn't break down when exposed to water.
dude your videos are great thanks for all the help.got a restoration of my own and hope it looks as good as your does when its finished keep up the good work
so i will need to buy 1 in spacers if I want to not use the entire length of the adapter?
Nice work! Mine is an alloy Trek Alpha Series 1000 (circa late 90's, early millennia) that I'm converting to disc brakes. I saw your video with the adapters, but if a fork with tabs can be used, it's preferable to adapters. Understandably, newer headsets are thicker now, but was wondering if you had any ideas about marrying new forks to an older frame?
Is there an easy way to install a threaded stem into a modern threadless bicycle? Or is that more costly?
You would have to replace the fork, headset, and stem.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thank you for the reply. This and the video was very helpful.
hey men . Just bought a stem converter in 1inch an 1.1/8 but it doesn't fit in my fork because the diameter of the fork is 1inch too so i think that i need a 22,5 mm to 25,4 mm converter no ???
What do you do when the adaptor is longer than the head tube, and you need spacers, but normal 1 1/8" spacers are too big on the bottom part of the adaptor?
Hi, great video! May I ask though, would a black powder coated adapter be more resistant to said galvanic corrosion compared to a polished one like what you used?
Probably depends on the coating. The plain aluminum parts are clear anodized. Often colored aluminum parts are just anodized with dye.
is there another way to cut off the old stem? (would a file work?)
What size was the quill stem that was originally on it
Does the upgrade including the new adapter weigh more than the original quill stem did? Im thinking of doing this to a 2000 Trek 1000 road bike that has a quill stem and havent decided what I'm doing just yet. What size and angle is the new stem your using in the video? I'll be converting to flat bars on this bike, so I still need to figure out whats going to work best.
Hello I just want to ask? what is the specific length of your quill stem adapter is it 150mm ?
What is the clamp size of the new stem? Can I get a new sten that will fit my old drops. I think it is 25 mm or something like that
I don't know what it was. You need to measure YOUR bars. They might be 25.4mm which is common.
Really appreciate your videos for us all, you helped me allot.
is there adapters for bmx too?
I love your vids RJ! Another great one. I’ve got a 7/8” quill stem on my old norco. Would this adapter still work?
That is called 1". (the steer is 1") And yes.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you! You're a legend.
How do you know what size your stem is? I’ve been looking on replacing mine but don’t know what size to buy.
I would love to keep my quill stem, and replace the threaded fork, but I find it very hard to find 1 inch threaded fork, regardless it is carbon or steel or aluminium. Can I perhaps make a threadless to threaded?
1" threaded forks are very common. Not sure why you can't find them.
Hi rj the bike guy. Which one is better? This stem adapter or replacing your headset and Converting it to threadless headset.
I already watch your video doing a conversation on threadless headset.
And also I'm planning to buy a new fork to my vintage mtb.
Shrug. I prefer the full conversion.
Hi, Thank you for the video. Does this make the stem stiffer?
Depends on the before and after stems. If they are the same stiffness, it doesn't make a difference.
This made my decision that much easier. May I ask what stem you used in the video?
Shrug. Just a threadless stem I had lying around. It needs to match the handlebar diameter. The other side is 1 1/8"
Size of quill stem?