Let's take a minute to say that this guy has covered literally every subject related to bikes! Every time l'm stuck with a compatibility problem or a question l can't find answers to the guy has put a video about it! Thank you mate from Morocco 🇲🇦
You know, I'm an experienced home mechanic. And I know how to do and have done most if not all of these bike fixes but I still love to watch these videos. Keep pumping them out and I'll keep watching.
I've Google three random questions on converting a vintage bike to modern parts and all three times your first video that popped up answered the question exactly. Great stuff.
I always find these videos interesting because just the fact that a lot of older bikes can be converted from lug nuts to Qr or threaded to thread less it’s just mind blowing to me for whatever reason
thanks for this video. i just ran into a situation where i am giving my son an old trek alpha 2000 that has a threaded fork but needed a threadless setup for his size and did not want to give up on a great bike frame. This is perfect!
You are my hero RJ! I have an old Trek 370 and it is my daily driver, I just love it, and am thinking of spreading the rear drop outs to go from 7 to 9 speed, and maybe converting the fork to something like what you did here...you give me much inspiration on my cycling wrenching stuff...thanks for what you do on your channel, it is so greatly appreciated...you have created a legacy here with your tutorials...
Beautiful. Such a great lesson, this is a comprehensive crash course in most everything a mechanic needs to know about headset assembly and disassembly. Truly the best bike teacher on youtube. Really well done.
You saved my life. Purchased a vintage Columbus fork with a tall uncut steer tube and had a plethora of doubt after learning that the threads are just way to far up (will be installed on a 54cm) You answered my question about the adapter and also shared how to make your own tools by using your noggin. dude awesome many many many thank yous Best
I gave that bicycle (Trek 1100) to my brother as a gift, now i am here because i wanted to convert a carbon fiber kestrel to a threadless system, pretty informative video thanks a bunch
Yes this is what we mean when upgrading our bike forks!! Although many still find the other video useful specially for MTB fam. Thank your very much for making these kind of videos.
Great video. After watching this, I followed your instructions and upgraded my old steel frame bike to threadless. A couple of things you might want to add. First, the problems I had with threaded was that the damn thing was always getting loose, no matter what I did. Maybe it was the cheap-o headsets or forks I used, but it was the main reason I wanted to go threadless. The second thing is the shim, specifically the length of it. The shim I got on Amazon was about a quarter of an inch longer than the length of the stem clamping area. There was no way I could get it to work unless I hacksawed the shim down to the exact length of the stem clamping area. Your upgrade appeared to have a shim that fit perfectly, but maybe you could add some info on what to do if the shim is too long. Thanks.
I've got a 2015 Dawes mojave and was considering this conversion for years but the cost put me off. Last year I was in Evans and they were selling a new fork for £5 . I completed the job with a FSA ORBIT 2 HEADSET and a new handlebar stem. Great result. Greetings from Maidstone England
Все что Вы делаете выглядит легко и просто, но за этим стоит огромный опыт и знания, спасибо Вам за понятные видео! All you do looks easy and simple, but behind much experience and knowledge, thank you for clear videos!
This video is answering the questions which I wanted answered. The Nemo Venir bike that I have has a 1 " threaded steel fork , installing a non threaded 1" fork..thank you..
I just finished retromodding an '80s Schwinn World Tour 2x6 into a 2x7 with new old-stock Shimano Ultegra derailleurs and brake calipers and STI shift/brake levers. New wheels, freewheel, chain, and Continental Gatorskins. Have not yet replaced the theeaded fork/quill, but that's next. Cant wait to go hammer on it tomorrow!
Yeah, I'm inclined to agree, that was never designed to have lateral clamping force on it. Plus, nashbar makes a threaded 1'' carbon fork if you want to do this
i actually adapted a threadless to threaded. i took an old crashed fork and cut the threaded part and pushed it thru a threadless fork that had its tubbe chopped off. been running well for the past 7 years, a little loose but works great
Thanks for the video. I'll be making your headset tools, although I'll be adding a wood insert to the cup press that is close to the inside diameter of the head tube. That way the pull direction is always aligned with the tube. I'll bet that you could get different sizes of wood dowel center drilled that would fit almost any bike.
Just a heads up on your choice in tooling used on your headset. To avoid marring or total rounding out the steer tube crown nut or any nut you choose to use an adjustable "Crescent" wrench, be sure to have the solid jaw clamped snug to the face of the nut on the driven direction of force. So if tightening you want the solid jaw on the right side of the nut and the adjustable jaw on the left. Of course it's all vice-versa for loosening the nut. This applies only for right hand threading but left hand threads only require a reversal of the same methods outlined above. The adjustable jaw on all brands of adjustable wrenches from the best money can buy to the cheapest will have play between the thumb screw and the teeth of the adjustable jaw so it is never exactly parallel with the opposing solid jaw face and will only get worse with wear. You're better off using the appropriate spanner but in a pinch, an adjustable will do but only when used properly. I almost shit myself when you got after the old crown nut thinking "Campy" equipped bike only to see it was a bit more durable than the priceless and much softer alloy used in their parts. Like using a 2 pound sledge to split diamonds.
Using the shim seems like good idea - clamping the stem directly over the threads seems like it could result in less contact/friction to hold the stem in place to resist twisting, and/or could mar the inside of the stem clamp. Not sure if the shim itself could slip around the threads, but possible the threads might be able to "bite" into the shim as it tightens. Sometimes I've tweaked a tightened stem around the steerer even when using standard setup, though I suppose usually only if the wheel got caught in tram rails or similar.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Right - I was more concerned (probably unnecessarily!) about clamping over *threads* (where contact surface would be reduced by the raised threads) than the general use of a shim. With a shim over a smooth, threadless steerer, you're still getting pretty much the same contact area.
Hej Dude! Just did the same according to your guide, 30+ Year old Frame. I didnt have a workstand or anything but managed ot do it on the floor with improvised tool (Broomstick cup remover) I love how the bike looks (also did new breaks and used your drilling method for rear wheel I have to say You helped me alot understanding how this whole bike thing works and 'I wanted to say a quick Thanks! before i go on first ride.
I did a similar conversion on my VITUS 979 installing a Nashbar 1" carbon fork. I ran into a situation installing the race of the WOODMAN headset onto the fork. Apparently there are at least a couple different standards for the diameter of the shoulder on the steerer tube that the bottom race presses onto. They vary only a few tenths of a millimeter but it's enough to make some headsets incompatable with some forks. You may want to advise your followers of a potential problem.
I have a 1990 trek 420 that I absolutely love. I got it for free, as it was abandoned in my school's storage. Only issue is the highest gear doesn't work on the cassette because the lockring interferes with the chain for that gear.
Awesome dude. Way to keep the bike updated and I love your resourcefulness with the homemade tools. Very genius. I cant believe I paid shops to press things in for me! Before youtube days of course! haha.
Good video. I managed to buy 2 framesets for £40 on a clearance off planet x they also came with forks 1 1" and 11/8" the frames are sab sportissimo 1 and 2 they are trekking/hybrid road frames. I will build 1 up for a cheap city/off road trail bike but I will put a deore setup on it as I have 2 sets spare I got for £40 each on a clearance.the frames have a good paint job I was expecting stickers but they have full painted decoration.
Brilliant! I'm considering an ISM saddle. Now I'm going to search your channel to see if you have any videos on it. If not, please share your experience with that saddle. Thank you as always for the your time sharing your knowledge on bikes.
I loved the idea to use "Shim" between 1" threaded steer tube and 1-1/8" stem.I think that the alminium shim would work well to keep nice surface to stem side / bite on threads on steer tube.But I also agreed that Ritchey head set + Ritchey stem combination brought you much better visual even if the stem in your shelf was actually 1-1/8" : D
You have an epic home made tool sooo cool , im planing to convert my standard MB to a threadless one youre vids. Is a big help .thank you for your vid.
2 tips. #1 do the upper and lower at the same time. Use a section of pvc to remove the slop between the inside of the cups and the rod. Free one turn the nut not the bolt.
I've been looking for years how to put a carbon fiber fork 1" 1/8 to my oldschool race bike whom is 1" standard size, I'm from México and I'd be a dream if someday get to do this. It's a great video!
Where exactly is 1", or 11/8", measured? The inner diameter of the steering tube, the outer diameter of the fork shaft, or the inner diameter of the fork shaft? I need to know before I order a bunch of parts that won't fit. I'm upgrading the fork on my 15+ year old touring bike. I already replaced the original steering stem with a longer one, that was supposedly a 1", but there was quite a bit of play around it, and I had to make some makeshift shims to stop it moving back and forth while riding. So I suspect I have a "11/8 setup, but I'd like to be certain. Great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. 👍👍👍😏😏😏
I love it when somebody tells me something I want to do can't be done. I will cut the tube and weld a larger one if I must but I am determined to get this 1 1/8" carbon fork to join my vintage 10 speed Schwinn sprint or die trying. If you have any tips or advice I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
+Jeremy Splaya Not sure of the head tube size on that, but but many old Schwinns had odd sized head tubes, and you are not going to find a threadless headset to fit one of those.
FYI: When using an adjustable (Crescent) wrench, the adjustable jaw ALWAYS leads, the fixed jaw follows. Otherwise, the adjustable jaw CAN move just enough to slip off, rounding off the nut. Flip the tool over, fixed jaw to rear, it cannot move.
nice video sir, your tools is compeleted.. so perfect , can maintanance bike ownself at home.. i love classic bike and what to try this tutorial,thank you
Great video! I'm looking at doing exactly this to an early-to-mid 90s Cannondale. Luckily for me, I can use a 1-1/8 steerer tube. I've got a handful of questions. Is it necessary to change out the top and bottom races? Other than the fork, and maybe the races, what other parts would I need?
Since you used a threaded fork (that stuck through far enough) with a 1" threadless headset, what would be the advantage of threadless headset as opposed to threaded?
Very educational so thank you. Would you please tell me the link to get the forks you were installing. I have the identical bike and like to get the same carbon fork. Also what is the name of shifting wire holder you have where the old levers used to be? Thank you much
Iam changing my diamond back hybrid bike to more like a mountain bike .chang ing the adjustable quill stem to a quill stem looks more like mountain bike stem. changing handle bars and seat post and pedals and seat to.change seat clamp to.later going see if I put meg wheels on it .not sure if that will work.
Are most frames with 1" threaded headsets going to have the same headtube diameter? When buying a 1" threadless headset are there many different sizes, or is it mostly standard?
Curious if the star fangled nut used here is a standard 1" (like could be used with a 1 1/8" steerer tube)? I can imagine that they would? and im not seeing any smaller star nuts out there, but just putting together a frame (no fork) that i got for free. Considering the lack of 1" threadless forks and also the not especially interested in cutting and re threading an existing fork, this seems like a good option for rebuilding it .. thx for all the vids.
Any issues clamping the stem to the threaded part of the steerer? I would imagine the threading would create a weak spot. Or does the shim reduce any weakness?
I have the same frame but the shifters are on the downtube. It looks like you moved the shifters to the bars and there is something where the shifters were to accept the cables. Looks clean. Just wondering what that part is.
I already don't like aluminium steerer tubes (aluminium parts in general, though stems and seatposts seem to be OK). A 1'' aluminium steerer tube is even worse (as compared to a more rigid 1 1/8''). Now add the threads, and that start nut (gouged internal wall) and you have a fatigue failure waiting to happen, in an area where you really don't want sudden and unexpected failure, or any failure for that matter. Steel threadless forks for me. Preferably 1 1/8'' instead of 1'' (less flex at the crown so less prone to fatigue cracking).
Hey, I have 2 frames, 2 forks, one of them is threaded, one of them is threadless, both 1 1/8. Their bearing and cone size does not fit, so I have to use them in pair. The threaded one upper part is ok in the threadless system too, but I don't know how to remove the cone from the threaded fork to transplant it to the treadless. So actually if the steerer fits into it it seems that a threaded can be used as a treadless.
what is the weight difference? I just bought a Cooper Sebring T100 as a commuter and want to really lighten it up. your video on upgrading to a newer sealed lower bracket is going to ne so helpful! Thanks so much!
These lower end, or oldschool 1" carbon forks barely weigh less than a steel fork, most of them have an aluminium steerer tube. You save 100 or maybe 200 grams. If your steerer tube is 1" and you want to save tons of weight your only option is the Columbus Minimal fork, it weighs 350 grams. But it also costs a LOT.
Hi i love the video. But may i know i upgrade to threadless stem.. and the headset also upgrade to threadless headset but using on the threaded fork... Is nothing problem?
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Let's take a minute to say that this guy has covered literally every subject related to bikes! Every time l'm stuck with a compatibility problem or a question l can't find answers to the guy has put a video about it! Thank you mate from Morocco 🇲🇦
Thanks for the video. Just what I needed to know! Love your approach and improvised tools.
You know, I'm an experienced home mechanic. And I know how to do and have done most if not all of these bike fixes but I still love to watch these videos. Keep pumping them out and I'll keep watching.
I've Google three random questions on converting a vintage bike to modern parts and all three times your first video that popped up answered the question exactly. Great stuff.
I always find these videos interesting because just the fact that a lot of older bikes can be converted from lug nuts to Qr or threaded to thread less it’s just mind blowing to me for whatever reason
thanks for this video. i just ran into a situation where i am giving my son an old trek alpha 2000 that has a threaded fork but needed a threadless setup for his size and did not want to give up on a great bike frame. This is perfect!
When I am stuck doing to a bike project, I switch on your channel to find the answers . Great video
You are my hero RJ! I have an old Trek 370 and it is my daily driver, I just love it, and am thinking of spreading the rear drop outs to go from 7 to 9 speed, and maybe converting the fork to something like what you did here...you give me much inspiration on my cycling wrenching stuff...thanks for what you do on your channel, it is so greatly appreciated...you have created a legacy here with your tutorials...
That headset removal tool is super slick with its reverse entry to lock in! Thanks for the know how.
Beautiful. Such a great lesson, this is a comprehensive crash course in most everything a mechanic needs to know about headset assembly and disassembly. Truly the best bike teacher on youtube. Really well done.
You saved my life.
Purchased a vintage Columbus fork with a tall uncut steer tube and had a plethora of doubt after learning that the threads are just way to far up (will be installed on a 54cm)
You answered my question about the adapter and also shared how to make your own tools by using your noggin.
dude awesome many many many thank yous
Best
I have the same headtube size in 2020. this really saved me from buying a new frameset. Thanks, Dad
I love all these home made tools, such great tips for all of us!! You are the "Master". :)
I gave that bicycle (Trek 1100) to my brother as a gift, now i am here because i wanted to convert a carbon fiber kestrel to a threadless system, pretty informative video thanks a bunch
I am going to do the same thing to my 1999 Litespeed to give it a more modern look. I love your videos. Thanks.
Yes this is what we mean when upgrading our bike forks!! Although many still find the other video useful specially for MTB fam. Thank your very much for making these kind of videos.
Great video. After watching this, I followed your instructions and upgraded my old steel frame bike to threadless. A couple of things you might want to add. First, the problems I had with threaded was that the damn thing was always getting loose, no matter what I did. Maybe it was the cheap-o headsets or forks I used, but it was the main reason I wanted to go threadless. The second thing is the shim, specifically the length of it. The shim I got on Amazon was about a quarter of an inch longer than the length of the stem clamping area. There was no way I could get it to work unless I hacksawed the shim down to the exact length of the stem clamping area. Your upgrade appeared to have a shim that fit perfectly, but maybe you could add some info on what to do if the shim is too long. Thanks.
I've got a 2015 Dawes mojave and was considering this conversion for years but the cost put me off. Last year I was in Evans and they were selling a new fork for £5 . I completed the job with a FSA ORBIT 2 HEADSET and a new handlebar stem. Great result. Greetings from Maidstone England
Все что Вы делаете выглядит легко и просто, но за этим стоит огромный опыт и знания, спасибо Вам за понятные видео!
All you do looks easy and simple, but behind much experience and knowledge, thank you for clear videos!
I got 2 bike's where the only original part is the rider 😂😂
I've had the same broom for 50 years. likewise the only original part is the user.
😂😂😂
Bike of Theseus
Lite Roadie how is that even possible?!
soo.. you upgrade/replaced parts until all the original part is gone? nice
This video is answering the questions which I wanted answered.
The Nemo Venir bike that I have has a 1 " threaded steel fork , installing a non threaded 1" fork..thank you..
I just finished retromodding an '80s Schwinn World Tour 2x6 into a 2x7 with new old-stock Shimano Ultegra derailleurs and brake calipers and STI shift/brake levers. New wheels, freewheel, chain, and Continental Gatorskins. Have not yet replaced the theeaded fork/quill, but that's next. Cant wait to go hammer on it tomorrow!
RJ, thanks a lot, your vids keep my old mountain bike running with thredless fork
Yeah, I'm inclined to agree, that was never designed to have lateral clamping force on it. Plus, nashbar makes a threaded 1'' carbon fork if you want to do this
THANKS AGAIN , AS USUAL YOUR VIDIOS COME IN SO HANDY . YOU COVER ALL THE BASES AND YOUR HAND MADE TOOLS ARE FANTASTIC.
i actually adapted a threadless to threaded. i took an old crashed fork and cut the threaded part and pushed it thru a threadless fork that had its tubbe chopped off. been running well for the past 7 years, a little loose but works great
Thanks for the video. I'll be making your headset tools, although I'll be adding a wood insert to the cup press that is close to the inside diameter of the head tube. That way the pull direction is always aligned with the tube. I'll bet that you could get different sizes of wood dowel center drilled that would fit almost any bike.
This man is national treasure! Great videos man!
have the same old trek. been through many updates, now heres another thank to you sir!
Just a heads up on your choice in tooling used on your headset. To avoid marring or total rounding out the steer tube crown nut or any nut you choose to use an adjustable "Crescent" wrench, be sure to have the solid jaw clamped snug to the face of the nut on the driven direction of force. So if tightening you want the solid jaw on the right side of the nut and the adjustable jaw on the left. Of course it's all vice-versa for loosening the nut. This applies only for right hand threading but left hand threads only require a reversal of the same methods outlined above. The adjustable jaw on all brands of adjustable wrenches from the best money can buy to the cheapest will have play between the thumb screw and the teeth of the adjustable jaw so it is never exactly parallel with the opposing solid jaw face and will only get worse with wear. You're better off using the appropriate spanner but in a pinch, an adjustable will do but only when used properly. I almost shit myself when you got after the old crown nut thinking "Campy" equipped bike only to see it was a bit more durable than the priceless and much softer alloy used in their parts. Like using a 2 pound sledge to split diamonds.
This Video is so valuable for me. Zou have no idea how grateful I am for this video. Thanks!
Thanks this was very helpful! Answered my questions about 1" threaded to 1 1/8" threadless.
Using the shim seems like good idea - clamping the stem directly over the threads seems like it could result in less contact/friction to hold the stem in place to resist twisting, and/or could mar the inside of the stem clamp. Not sure if the shim itself could slip around the threads, but possible the threads might be able to "bite" into the shim as it tightens. Sometimes I've tweaked a tightened stem around the steerer even when using standard setup, though I suppose usually only if the wheel got caught in tram rails or similar.
Shims generally work fine.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Right - I was more concerned (probably unnecessarily!) about clamping over *threads* (where contact surface would be reduced by the raised threads) than the general use of a shim. With a shim over a smooth, threadless steerer, you're still getting pretty much the same contact area.
Great video! A ratcheted wrench would be very helpful for the head tube cup installation. Nice homemade tools, too! :)
Thank you so much I was looking for an old mountain bike and you told me exactly what I needed to know
Really useful video, thanks! Some great "amateur" tools you've made too, excellent ideas.
I actually have many of the professional tools, but use these because these are more accessible to many of my viewers.
thanks so much for the video. very good background on different size steerer tubes.
Hej Dude! Just did the same according to your guide, 30+ Year old Frame. I didnt have a workstand or anything but managed ot do it on the floor with improvised tool (Broomstick cup remover) I love how the bike looks (also did new breaks and used your drilling method for rear wheel I have to say You helped me alot understanding how this whole bike thing works and 'I wanted to say a quick Thanks! before i go on first ride.
Chris Notyourbusines old seat post work will too if they 1 1/8 diameter stick it in the hole bang bang they fling right out
I did a similar conversion on my VITUS 979 installing a Nashbar 1" carbon fork. I ran into a situation installing the race of the WOODMAN headset onto the fork. Apparently there are at least a couple different standards for the diameter of the shoulder on the steerer tube that the bottom race presses onto. They vary only a few tenths of a millimeter but it's enough to make some headsets incompatable with some forks. You may want to advise your followers of a potential problem.
I have a 1992 trek 1000 and it is great, I want to start upgrading stuff but it still works great
i like the homemade tools. subscribed
Extremely helpful as always!! keep the videos coming! specially modernizing or updating vintage road bikes!!
I have a 1990 trek 420 that I absolutely love. I got it for free, as it was abandoned in my school's storage. Only issue is the highest gear doesn't work on the cassette because the lockring interferes with the chain for that gear.
Flamingeyes245 Could it be the limiting screw needs adjusting? Have you watched this video? th-cam.com/video/D5HP1poRjv0/w-d-xo.html
I have a vintage Miyata road bike and I'm looking forward to make some changes on it and your videos are helping me a lot. Thanks for the videos
Josue Lozano Miyata made some good bikes. Probably a good platform to build on!
I also like the older frame geometry. Good video.
If you played the drinking game with the word 'here' you wouldn't last 10 minutes. Great video packed with info and tips!
Awesome dude. Way to keep the bike updated and I love your resourcefulness with the homemade tools. Very genius. I cant believe I paid shops to press things in for me! Before youtube days of course! haha.
Good video. I managed to buy 2 framesets for £40 on a clearance off planet x they also came with forks 1 1" and 11/8" the frames are sab sportissimo 1 and 2 they are trekking/hybrid road frames. I will build 1 up for a cheap city/off road trail bike but I will put a deore setup on it as I have 2 sets spare I got for £40 each on a clearance.the frames have a good paint job I was expecting stickers but they have full painted decoration.
Youre the best. Your videos did help us a lot to know more about upgrading our bikes.
You just gave me an idea I want to change out the fork on my 7100. It has the 1-1/8 inch threaded steerer tube. I think I want to do Threadless.
Brilliant! I'm considering an ISM saddle. Now I'm going to search your channel to see if you have any videos on it. If not, please share your experience with that saddle. Thank you as always for the your time sharing your knowledge on bikes.
I have three Adamo saddles. Love em. They have to be adjusted correctly.
Just got a white T1000 and reviving it now. Wondering about shift levers and hub/cassette options.
Absolutely fantastic video now I want to work on a bike.
I loved the idea to use "Shim" between 1" threaded steer tube and 1-1/8" stem.I think that the alminium shim would work well to keep nice surface to stem side / bite on threads on steer tube.But I also agreed that Ritchey head set + Ritchey stem combination brought you much better visual even if the stem in your shelf was actually 1-1/8" : D
You have an epic home made tool sooo cool , im planing to convert my standard MB to a threadless one youre vids. Is a big help .thank you for your vid.
th-cam.com/play/PLxO5aF0senshDxqoooXUSJGG132wE_o35.html
Great job. I'm looking to do this to my 1994 Cannondale R800
really good project for my Peugeot PX10 1990, THX
Really appreciate you and your sharing of your expertise.
2 tips. #1 do the upper and lower at the same time. Use a section of pvc to remove the slop between the inside of the cups and the rod. Free one turn the nut not the bolt.
Thinking about doing this to my 1983 Trek 520... That carbon fork does give it the pro look. lol.
thanks for your tutorial and your home made tools are also superb
This is EXACTLY the video I've been looking for! Thank you very much. :-)
I've been looking for years how to put a carbon fiber fork 1" 1/8 to my oldschool race bike whom is 1" standard size, I'm from México and I'd be a dream if someday get to do this. It's a great video!
You can't. You need a 1" fork.
RJ The Bike Guy do you know any online store where I could get one?
@@ihaveabigcojones You have to do your own shopping. Try ebay, google, amazon, etc.
@@RJTheBikeGuy maybe using custom cups that can be pressed by the outside? It should deserve a try.
Yes, it is possible, a guy from Puebla, Puebla sells custom cups that fit 1 1/8 forks into 1" standard, I didnt believe it until I tried it
Lucas Patterson, still alive! Hoping to come out with some new videos soon.
RJ The Bike Guy what size was the pvc pipe
Hi, do you have a link to where you bought that fork?
Where exactly is 1", or 11/8", measured? The inner diameter of the steering tube, the outer diameter of the fork shaft, or the inner diameter of the fork shaft? I need to know before I order a bunch of parts that won't fit. I'm upgrading the fork on my 15+ year old touring bike. I already replaced the original steering stem with a longer one, that was supposedly a 1", but there was quite a bit of play around it, and I had to make some makeshift shims to stop it moving back and forth while riding. So I suspect I have a "11/8 setup, but I'd like to be certain. Great video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. 👍👍👍😏😏😏
your videos are great RJ! Thank you!
I love it when somebody tells me something I want to do can't be done. I will cut the tube and weld a larger one if I must but I am determined to get this 1 1/8" carbon fork to join my vintage 10 speed Schwinn sprint or die trying. If you have any tips or advice I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
+Jeremy Splaya Not sure of the head tube size on that, but but many old Schwinns had odd sized head tubes, and you are not going to find a threadless headset to fit one of those.
FYI: When using an adjustable (Crescent) wrench, the adjustable jaw ALWAYS leads, the fixed jaw follows. Otherwise, the adjustable jaw CAN move just enough to slip off, rounding off the nut. Flip the tool over, fixed jaw to rear, it cannot move.
nice video sir, your tools is compeleted.. so perfect , can maintanance bike ownself at home..
i love classic bike and what to try this tutorial,thank you
Hi sir, may I know there's other sizesof threadless headset for other classic bikes with a smaller diameter of head tube?
Great video! I'm looking at doing exactly this to an early-to-mid 90s Cannondale. Luckily for me, I can use a 1-1/8 steerer tube. I've got a handful of questions. Is it necessary to change out the top and bottom races? Other than the fork, and maybe the races, what other parts would I need?
+Jeremy Lucas Buy a threadless headset and it will have all the parts.
Thanks dude! This is exactly what I needed.
Just picked up a bike like this and wanted to remove the down tube shifters. What cable adapters are those? Thanks
You're amazing. If you're ever biking in Chicago... please do tell
I have been to Chicago, but never biking there.
You can put the cup in the freezer for a little while before you start and that makes it go in easier.
Just what I was looking for! Many many thanks!
thank you for the tutorial, now i can put a comfy suspension in my steel mtb
Since you used a threaded fork (that stuck through far enough) with a 1" threadless headset, what would be the advantage of threadless headset as opposed to threaded?
Can you do this keeping the original threaded fork and without the adaptor you had before on this?
Very educational so thank you.
Would you please tell me the link to get the forks you were installing. I have the identical bike and like to get the same carbon fork. Also what is the name of shifting wire holder you have where the old levers used to be? Thank you much
ebay.com
Downtube cable stops.
Iam changing my diamond back hybrid bike to more like a mountain bike .chang ing the adjustable quill stem to a quill stem looks more like mountain bike stem. changing handle bars and seat post and pedals and seat to.change seat clamp to.later going see if I put meg wheels on it .not sure if that will work.
Thanks for the video I always thought it was impossible
Are most frames with 1" threaded headsets going to have the same headtube diameter? When buying a 1" threadless headset are there many different sizes, or is it mostly standard?
It's pretty standard I think. But measure yours anyway. Crown races can be different. Then there are oddballs sometimes.
Curious if the star fangled nut used here is a standard 1" (like could be used with a 1 1/8" steerer tube)? I can imagine that they would? and im not seeing any smaller star nuts out there, but just putting together a frame (no fork) that i got for free. Considering the lack of 1" threadless forks and also the not especially interested in cutting and re threading an existing fork, this seems like a good option for rebuilding it .. thx for all the vids.
I think I used a standard star fangled nut.
@@RJTheBikeGuy cool, i will give that a try. thanks again
You're great! This is precisely the information I needed :)
You've installed the stem on a threaded fork, i'ts been 7 years.
Did it snap?
Any issues clamping the stem to the threaded part of the steerer? I would imagine the threading would create a weak spot. Or does the shim reduce any weakness?
You’re brilliant man, love it
uncle RJ in time the stem in thread fork don't cause problems or something???
What's the easiest way to tell you can go from 1in to 1 1/8? I have an 80's Schwinn cruiser 5
RJ.. Unrelated... What is used to convert shifts at frame? I'd that a kit to room the cables inside?
I don't understand.
I have the same frame but the shifters are on the downtube. It looks like you moved the shifters to the bars and there is something where the shifters were to accept the cables.
Looks clean. Just wondering what that part is.
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001JH9KUY/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Thank you... Love your videos!
I already don't like aluminium steerer tubes (aluminium parts in general, though stems and seatposts seem to be OK). A 1'' aluminium steerer tube is even worse (as compared to a more rigid 1 1/8'').
Now add the threads, and that start nut (gouged internal wall) and you have a fatigue failure waiting to happen, in an area where you really don't want sudden and unexpected failure, or any failure for that matter. Steel threadless forks for me. Preferably 1 1/8'' instead of 1'' (less flex at the crown so less prone to fatigue cracking).
Great video. I did the same years ago in an old Ishiwatta steel frame. Will subscribe and watch your videos. Thanks!
Thanks a great video love learning about parts that can be got.
Hey, I have 2 frames, 2 forks, one of them is threaded, one of them is threadless, both 1 1/8. Their bearing and cone size does not fit, so I have to use them in pair. The threaded one upper part is ok in the threadless system too, but I don't know how to remove the cone from the threaded fork to transplant it to the treadless. So actually if the steerer fits into it it seems that a threaded can be used as a treadless.
Do you mean the crown race? th-cam.com/video/9G5R8-qitgM/w-d-xo.html
Oh, thank you very much, exactly! I will try this. Maybe not today, but I'll let you now if I succeeded or not.
Ive got my great grandfathers ax. The handle has been replaced 4 times, the head replaced only once.
But then how did Sam Pilgrim put that marzocchi dirt jump fork on that old specialized hardrock???
Am I supposed to know what you are talking about?
Just search for Sam Pilgrim free bike challenge on youtube... I believe he changes out the fork in episode 2
And?
I was just wondering how he managed to fit a 1 1/8 inch fork on a bike with a quill stem?
Because the bike had a 1 1/8" fork. th-cam.com/video/OHcjh4O20ko/w-d-xo.html
The bike in THIS video had a 1" fork.
what is the weight difference? I just bought a Cooper Sebring T100 as a commuter and want to really lighten it up. your video on upgrading to a newer sealed lower bracket is going to ne so helpful! Thanks so much!
These lower end, or oldschool 1" carbon forks barely weigh less than a steel fork, most of them have an aluminium steerer tube. You save 100 or maybe 200 grams. If your steerer tube is 1" and you want to save tons of weight your only option is the Columbus Minimal fork, it weighs 350 grams. But it also costs a LOT.
Thanks for the info!
Hi i love the video. But may i know i upgrade to threadless stem.. and the headset also upgrade to threadless headset but using on the threaded fork... Is nothing problem?
Hi what headset did you buy for the conversion. I'm currently looking. P
Thank for the video. Very informative!