Wooow so glad I found this video...seems well explained... am new to DIY will be making over a side cupboard into a sewing room let's hope wicks and b&Q are open during this lockdown.
Hi Wes, no gaps in either case, they all butt up to each other. Then use scrim tape to joint the boards together and the boards to your ceiling. I have a separate video on scrim taping for you to check out
You will have to build a stud wall and then screw boards onto stud wall joists, filling space between these joists with insulation of your choice. You can also can buy insulated plaster boards nowadays
@@shivgohil1972 my thoughts too, both options are good ideas. I used insulated plasterboard in another part of my home, comes about an in or two thick so something to bear in mind when boarding around door frames, as it will build out further than normal plasterboard.
Insulated plasterboard is available from builders merchants and online. If the room area is large enough and you don't mind losing a bit of space battening the wall is an option. You then screw normal plasterboard onto the battens filling the space behind with insulation material. Bear in mind this option will be more expensive.
Solid dabs around reveals. Sockets and cables solid dabs. Wall max of 10mm dabs if that far out use packers. Measure 10mm off wall string line. Iazer up to ceiling both ends string line. Knock boards to line at bottom and top. Boards will be plumb.
Hi Rob, I've just written an article on this on my website, you can check it out here: www.helpfulhomediy.co.uk/why-do-plasterboards-need-a-skim-coat-of-plaster/ In summary: Plasterboards are porous and have an uneven surface that's not suitable for painting or wallpapering without a skim coat plaster. Skim coat plaster provides a smooth surface and fills in any gaps or cracks in the plasterboard, ensuring a seamless finish. Adhesion: Plaster provides an excellent base for paint or wallpaper to adhere to. Without a skim coat, the paint or wallpaper may not stick properly to the surface of the plasterboard, leading to peeling or cracking over time. Durability: Plaster provides a protective layer over the surface of plasterboards, increasing their durability and lifespan. This is particularly important in areas that are subject to wear and tear, such as hallways, living rooms, and kitchens. Moisture resistance: Plasterboards can absorb moisture. Skim coat plaster helps to prevent moisture from penetrating the surface of the plasterboard, reducing the risk of mould and mildew. Hope this helps
I'm sorry, silly question. Can you put plasterboard only on one wall (external, dumpy)? The wall with will plaster would be thicker and won't look same comparing to others, am I right?
Sorry for late reply - yes correct, a plaster boarded wall will be thinker than a none boarded wall. You can board only one wall if you like. It's quite common for some houses to have exposed brickwork as a feature whilst having other walls plastered
It all depends how confident you are at skimming the sand & cement. I haven't tried it myself, but putting the boards up was very quick and easy, plus a lot less messy! I'll be plasterboarding from now on.
You should never plaster board over brick , its absolutely pointless, you use sand and cement over bricks , been that way for 100s of years. You use plasterboard over stud walls , thata whsta it's for.
@@S01-k9zThe Knauf adhesive I use is specifically made to stick plasterboard to a masonry background. It takes less skill to fix a plaster board to a wall vs. sand a cement screed, so it is ideal for DIYers.
Lol,top tips always come off your door frame first don’t do what he does here and always do your window reveals first never last.theres a few things he does wrong I could write a long list.he gets a star for trying though lol
Hi Lenton, it depends what you're fixing the plasterboard to. If you're fixing to a timber stud wall for example, then screws are required. If fixing to a masonry substrate then bond with adhesive. Hope this helps
Nope, no screws when attaching the boards to masonry, just adhesive. There will be a bit of a gap between the boards and masonry due to the thickness of the adhesive. If yours is loose, it probably because the masonry was still dusty, so the adhesive hasn't stuck?
It’s in case of ground movement. it’s slightly above my head to explain why that happens but hopefully the gap should be hidden my skirting boards I also don’t know why skirting boards are seeming immune to ground movements.
You positioned the board in the centre of the wall, but how did you (or could you, I, or anyone) guarantee that the board positioned to the left of it aligns with the wooden finishing trim that is fastened to the door frame?
Once the first board is stuck to the wall, making sure it is perfectly vertical, you can measure across from that board to any obstacles. Transfer and draw on those measurements on a new board and cut that board to the correct width/shape. Normally though, the architrave (the wooden finishing you refer to) would be installed after the plastering, and therefore the plasterboard can be cut to size after the Plastering is complete. I left my architrave in place, in hindsight I should have removed it and installed new architrave after the Plastering, which would have been easier and quicker
Is it possible, though difficult, to skim plaster over render which has had its previous skim coat chipped off (best image I can describe it as is pretty much like the way a boiled egg has a hard shell and you chip off the shell). Obviously the render is very gritty in its present state. Is it just a case of sealing it all up with 1:1 pva/water?
Hi. I'm not sure to be honest, I've not skim coated on a render substrate before. I'm curious to know how the previous skim has been removed, presumably leaving the render intact? You say the render is gritty, does it crumble up easily if you rub it? I.e. does it easily rub away to dust?
@@HelpfulHomeDIY yes I chipped away very tediously and laboriously at the skim, leaving just the render on - which as you say is gritty etc. I haven't got any experience and basically made a huge kodge of my living room, without doing any of the homework prior 🤦♂️. I wasn't happy with the then-present condition of the walls, and so in hindsight I should've just wallpapered the bloody lot of it and that would've covered up all the previous shoddy work that was done. I realise it's a bit hypocritical to call it shoddy when I've made a worse job of it but hey. I'm game for fixing it. But of course it's all about the sequence of things. Making the right moves in proper sequence so that you don't have to go back a step which you though wasn't the wrong one but turns out was. For example, I've got to re-board my kitchen diner which was originally divided by a wall. I removed the wall and this revealed a gap in the ceiling where the rafters are. So I've got to bridge that somehow. Just another question if that's ok? I've had spotlights holes bored into the ceiling. How difficult is it to skim a ceiling with a trowel going around and/or over 100mm holes, without producing uneven surfaces?
@@mazklassa9338 haha, lives a learning curve 💯 To answer your question, what's usually done to patch up ceiling holes is to first thread a piece of plasterboard though the hole and fix it to the top side of the existing plaster, effectively creating a flat surface that's recessed above the existing plaster. You can fix this board in place by screwing it to the existing plasterboard from the underside, but drive the screw head into the plaster enough to be able to skim over it to leave a flat surface to paint over. Once the board is securely fixed in place, you can plaster the recess with gypsum multifinish so that it's then flush with the ceiling plaster. Hope that helps
thank you for this video, very informative! Just wondering, what if your wall isn't level, like if there are bricks jutting out etc. How can you level it? Thank you :)
Hi Rachel, thanks for your comments. It depends how much the bricks are jutting out but unless they're really bad, you can get around it by being selective where to apply the adhesive and how much. So, smaller blobs where the bricks protrude out and larger blobs where they are recessed in, so that it all evens out. Start on the part of the wall that protrudes out the most and use that level to set the rest of the boards
Hi I’m a DIY beginner. Have a few questions: 1. I’m ensuring the plasterboard doesn’t touch the floor to avoid damp. But this means there’s a little void between the floor and the external wall - is this ok/normal? We have an old solid wall house from the 1900s 2. What’s the name of the bonding coat you used? 3. What’s your view on using a plasterboard adhesive instead or a “bonding coat!?
Hi there, I'm not sure on number 1 as this doesn't seem normal - unless you talking about your 1st or 2nd floor here in which case a slight gap can be normal. This gap is usually sealed off with skirting board. For number 2, I just used Knauf plasterboard adhesive directly onto the bricks. You could mean a couple of things when you mention a bonding coat but I'm assuming you are asking about coating the bricks before applying the plasterboard, such as a water/PVA solution. If so, many people will apply that to the bricks first. The directions that Knauf give don't mention a bonding coat and say to clean the bricks with a brush instead, so that's what I did and it seems fine. 3 - I'm not sure exactly what you mean here as a bonding coat can refer to a few things.
Because I needed to keep the boards as close to the brickwork as possible. I left the existing window cills and architrave in place and didn't want the plastering to come out so far that it over-sailed these. In hindsight, it would've been quicker just to install new architrave and cills! Hey ho, live and learn!
@@jonathanboultonplastering79 not a bad shout there! I was going for the easiest way for a beginner but I'll give your suggestion some thought next time round. If I can skim coat then floating shouldn't be a problem..... in theory 😬
Hi Gary, it's to prevent rising damp from my ground floor concrete slab travelling up the boards. The previous plaster touched the floor slab and had damp problems, hence why it all got replaced
I've been told not to dot n dab on external walls, have you had any problems with damp/condensation on these walls or dabs showing through. Tempted to do this myself in our small spare bedroom but worried about lack of insulation etc.
Hi Chris, no problems so far and one of the external walls faces north. I guess it all depends on what type of external walls you have. Mine is standard brick/cavity/brick. I didnt come across any issues with this when doing my research before boarding either
I had my small ultilty room done, now one wall is full of green mold. At my wits end. My idea was just to plaster tje wall as it had a few small holes and spiders, but the plaster said to plaserboard and skim an now im left with a mess.
@@emmawhale4129 assuming that when the underfloor heating floor was constructed, it was made fully waterproof from moisture below, then I don't see any problems
So many issues with how you are doing this, you need a layer at the top for fire insulation, also PVA walls before for sealing moister, plasterboard touching floor which will draw moisture from floor.
What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
If you want the plasterboard to be skimmed with plaster it makes no difference which side is facing you. The paper side is placed facing outside if you want to paint it instead of plastering.
Why would u plasterboard over brick wall, you sandra cement over it, if you ain't confident to do that gets plasterer in . I've never heard of anyone plaster boarding over brick
![How To Dot And Dab A Wall - Complete Guide - Plasterboard - Drylining A Wall [Plastering Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zHl4Ndg-TUs/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Dot And Dab A Wall - Complete Guide - Plasterboard - Drylining A Wall [Plastering Tutorial]](/img/tr.png)
another excellent clear and concise video!kept it quite simple!good man!good man!
Thanks very much 🙏
Wow! Thank you. I didnt know it was just pasted on like this. I thought u had to puttimber and screw them on.. this is fantastic 😊
I taught the same thing as well never know it could tick on the wall like that
I think it's called dot and dab plasterboarding.
Wooow so glad I found this video...seems well explained... am new to DIY will be making over a side cupboard into a sewing room
let's hope wicks and b&Q are open during this lockdown.
Thanks and I hope the shops were open for you
I'm planning to do some of this in the future. Cheers for the video, very helpful!
Cheers, good luck
Do leave a gap between the ceiling and wall? Also do u leave a gap between two boards side by side?
Hi Wes, no gaps in either case, they all butt up to each other. Then use scrim tape to joint the boards together and the boards to your ceiling. I have a separate video on scrim taping for you to check out
Great video mate.
Cheers Luke 👍
Great vid and helpful technique tips - thank you
When dot and dabbing you should really do a full boarder of adhesive around the edge of the board then dabs inside
Can you add thin layer of insulation when putting up the dry wall without having to do a lot more extra work?
You will have to build a stud wall and then screw boards onto stud wall joists, filling space between these joists with insulation of your choice. You can also can buy insulated plaster boards nowadays
@@shivgohil1972 my thoughts too, both options are good ideas. I used insulated plasterboard in another part of my home, comes about an in or two thick so something to bear in mind when boarding around door frames, as it will build out further than normal plasterboard.
Insulated plasterboard is available from builders merchants and online. If the room area is large enough and you don't mind losing a bit of space battening the wall is an option. You then screw normal plasterboard onto the battens filling the space behind with insulation material. Bear in mind this option will be more expensive.
You can use insulation boatds
Solid dabs around reveals. Sockets and cables solid dabs. Wall max of 10mm dabs if that far out use packers. Measure 10mm off wall string line. Iazer up to ceiling both ends string line. Knock boards to line at bottom and top. Boards will be plumb.
Why no insulation between the two sustrates?? Isn't there a concern of moisture eminating from an exterior brick wall to the drywall.
After you've put up plaster board, do you really need to put a coat over it? Or can you paint or even wallpaper instead?
Hi Rob,
I've just written an article on this on my website, you can check it out here: www.helpfulhomediy.co.uk/why-do-plasterboards-need-a-skim-coat-of-plaster/
In summary:
Plasterboards are porous and have an uneven surface that's not suitable for painting or wallpapering without a skim coat plaster. Skim coat plaster provides a smooth surface and fills in any gaps or cracks in the plasterboard, ensuring a seamless finish.
Adhesion: Plaster provides an excellent base for paint or wallpaper to adhere to. Without a skim coat, the paint or wallpaper may not stick properly to the surface of the plasterboard, leading to peeling or cracking over time.
Durability: Plaster provides a protective layer over the surface of plasterboards, increasing their durability and lifespan. This is particularly important in areas that are subject to wear and tear, such as hallways, living rooms, and kitchens.
Moisture resistance: Plasterboards can absorb moisture. Skim coat plaster helps to prevent moisture from penetrating the surface of the plasterboard, reducing the risk of mould and mildew.
Hope this helps
brilliant video
Cheers!
hey what the name of thr mix you make to put up the board on the wall what the name of it and what it mix with water are what
Knauf perlfix
I'm sorry, silly question. Can you put plasterboard only on one wall (external, dumpy)? The wall with will plaster would be thicker and won't look same comparing to others, am I right?
Sorry for late reply - yes correct, a plaster boarded wall will be thinker than a none boarded wall. You can board only one wall if you like. It's quite common for some houses to have exposed brickwork as a feature whilst having other walls plastered
Nice vid! I’ve gone back to brick too... would you recommend putting plasterboard or sand and cement ?
It all depends how confident you are at skimming the sand & cement. I haven't tried it myself, but putting the boards up was very quick and easy, plus a lot less messy! I'll be plasterboarding from now on.
You should never plaster board over brick , its absolutely pointless, you use sand and cement over bricks , been that way for 100s of years. You use plasterboard over stud walls , thata whsta it's for.
@@S01-k9zThe Knauf adhesive I use is specifically made to stick plasterboard to a masonry background. It takes less skill to fix a plaster board to a wall vs. sand a cement screed, so it is ideal for DIYers.
@@S01-k9z I'm a DIYer thinking of doing this. Please explain why it is pointless.
Did you use any pva or unibond before boarding??
Nope, Just gave the bricks a good brushing down
Lol,top tips always come off your door frame first don’t do what he does here and always do your window reveals first never last.theres a few things he does wrong I could write a long list.he gets a star for trying though lol
Thanks for your comments
Is it worth to put screws in plasterboard or just bond?
Hi Lenton, it depends what you're fixing the plasterboard to. If you're fixing to a timber stud wall for example, then screws are required. If fixing to a masonry substrate then bond with adhesive. Hope this helps
But you don't need screws?! I done mine but some reason there is a gap behind the plasterboard and the plasterboard bit loose, what can I do?
Nope, no screws when attaching the boards to masonry, just adhesive. There will be a bit of a gap between the boards and masonry due to the thickness of the adhesive. If yours is loose, it probably because the masonry was still dusty, so the adhesive hasn't stuck?
Why do you have to leave a gap/space at the bottom/above the floor when fixing plasterboard?
I’d like to know this too!
It’s in case of ground movement. it’s slightly above my head to explain why that happens but hopefully the gap should be hidden my skirting boards
I also don’t know why skirting boards are seeming immune to ground movements.
You positioned the board in the centre of the wall, but how did you (or could you, I, or anyone) guarantee that the board positioned to the left of it aligns with the wooden finishing trim that is fastened to the door frame?
Once the first board is stuck to the wall, making sure it is perfectly vertical, you can measure across from that board to any obstacles. Transfer and draw on those measurements on a new board and cut that board to the correct width/shape.
Normally though, the architrave (the wooden finishing you refer to) would be installed after the plastering, and therefore the plasterboard can be cut to size after the Plastering is complete. I left my architrave in place, in hindsight I should have removed it and installed new architrave after the Plastering, which would have been easier and quicker
Is it possible, though difficult, to skim plaster over render which has had its previous skim coat chipped off (best image I can describe it as is pretty much like the way a boiled egg has a hard shell and you chip off the shell). Obviously the render is very gritty in its present state. Is it just a case of sealing it all up with 1:1 pva/water?
Hi. I'm not sure to be honest, I've not skim coated on a render substrate before. I'm curious to know how the previous skim has been removed, presumably leaving the render intact? You say the render is gritty, does it crumble up easily if you rub it? I.e. does it easily rub away to dust?
@@HelpfulHomeDIY yes I chipped away very tediously and laboriously at the skim, leaving just the render on - which as you say is gritty etc. I haven't got any experience and basically made a huge kodge of my living room, without doing any of the homework prior 🤦♂️. I wasn't happy with the then-present condition of the walls, and so in hindsight I should've just wallpapered the bloody lot of it and that would've covered up all the previous shoddy work that was done. I realise it's a bit hypocritical to call it shoddy when I've made a worse job of it but hey. I'm game for fixing it. But of course it's all about the sequence of things. Making the right moves in proper sequence so that you don't have to go back a step which you though wasn't the wrong one but turns out was.
For example, I've got to re-board my kitchen diner which was originally divided by a wall. I removed the wall and this revealed a gap in the ceiling where the rafters are. So I've got to bridge that somehow.
Just another question if that's ok? I've had spotlights holes bored into the ceiling. How difficult is it to skim a ceiling with a trowel going around and/or over 100mm holes, without producing uneven surfaces?
@@mazklassa9338 haha, lives a learning curve 💯
To answer your question, what's usually done to patch up ceiling holes is to first thread a piece of plasterboard though the hole and fix it to the top side of the existing plaster, effectively creating a flat surface that's recessed above the existing plaster. You can fix this board in place by screwing it to the existing plasterboard from the underside, but drive the screw head into the plaster enough to be able to skim over it to leave a flat surface to paint over. Once the board is securely fixed in place, you can plaster the recess with gypsum multifinish so that it's then flush with the ceiling plaster.
Hope that helps
@@HelpfulHomeDIY yes that is a huge help so many thanks for your advice x
thank you for this video, very informative! Just wondering, what if your wall isn't level, like if there are bricks jutting out etc. How can you level it? Thank you :)
Hi Rachel, thanks for your comments. It depends how much the bricks are jutting out but unless they're really bad, you can get around it by being selective where to apply the adhesive and how much. So, smaller blobs where the bricks protrude out and larger blobs where they are recessed in, so that it all evens out. Start on the part of the wall that protrudes out the most and use that level to set the rest of the boards
@@HelpfulHomeDIY brill, thank you for replying :)
Hi I’m a DIY beginner. Have a few questions:
1. I’m ensuring the plasterboard doesn’t touch the floor to avoid damp. But this means there’s a little void between the floor and the external wall - is this ok/normal?
We have an old solid wall house from the 1900s
2. What’s the name of the bonding coat you used?
3. What’s your view on using a plasterboard adhesive instead or a “bonding coat!?
Hi there, I'm not sure on number 1 as this doesn't seem normal - unless you talking about your 1st or 2nd floor here in which case a slight gap can be normal. This gap is usually sealed off with skirting board. For number 2, I just used Knauf plasterboard adhesive directly onto the bricks. You could mean a couple of things when you mention a bonding coat but I'm assuming you are asking about coating the bricks before applying the plasterboard, such as a water/PVA solution. If so, many people will apply that to the bricks first. The directions that Knauf give don't mention a bonding coat and say to clean the bricks with a brush instead, so that's what I did and it seems fine. 3 - I'm not sure exactly what you mean here as a bonding coat can refer to a few things.
Should start by coming off your linings
Cheers Sam, good point, I've since learned that's the best way forward 🤦♂️
So once the plaster board is on what’s next
How come you have cut all the chases on the window wall?
Because I needed to keep the boards as close to the brickwork as possible. I left the existing window cills and architrave in place and didn't want the plastering to come out so far that it over-sailed these. In hindsight, it would've been quicker just to install new architrave and cills! Hey ho, live and learn!
@@HelpfulHomeDIY always learning. Maybe dab wasn't best system to use. Floating would have been better I reckon
@@jonathanboultonplastering79 not a bad shout there! I was going for the easiest way for a beginner but I'll give your suggestion some thought next time round. If I can skim coat then floating shouldn't be a problem..... in theory 😬
Wish he would explain why you need to leave a gap between the plasterboard and the floor
Hi Gary, it's to prevent rising damp from my ground floor concrete slab travelling up the boards. The previous plaster touched the floor slab and had damp problems, hence why it all got replaced
I've been told not to dot n dab on external walls, have you had any problems with damp/condensation on these walls or dabs showing through. Tempted to do this myself in our small spare bedroom but worried about lack of insulation etc.
Hi Chris, no problems so far and one of the external walls faces north. I guess it all depends on what type of external walls you have. Mine is standard brick/cavity/brick. I didnt come across any issues with this when doing my research before boarding either
It’s regularly done, but requires a continuous bead of addy around the edge of the board. -
I had my small ultilty room done, now one wall is full of green mold. At my wits end. My idea was just to plaster tje wall as it had a few small holes and spiders, but the plaster said to plaserboard and skim an now im left with a mess.
Did you not use any of those yellow stuffings for isolation between the bricks and plaster wall? Or is that present on the other side of the bricks?
Hi Dukhtare, I'm not sure what you mean by yellow stuffings?
i think he means insulation.
Why do you need to leave a gap at the floor?? Asking for a friend who may or may not have left a gap at the floor... 👀
Hi Emma, it's to prevent damp rising up the plasterboard/plaster from the ground floor slab. The gap is then hidden by skirting
@@HelpfulHomeDIY if we have underfloor heating and then OS board that'll be OK won't it?? (If we haven't left a gap!)
@@emmawhale4129 assuming that when the underfloor heating floor was constructed, it was made fully waterproof from moisture below, then I don't see any problems
So many issues with how you are doing this, you need a layer at the top for fire insulation, also PVA walls before for sealing moister, plasterboard touching floor which will draw moisture from floor.
Don't need fire insulation in the UK. Don't use PVA, the walls need to breath, plaster doesn't touch floor. But thanks for the comments anyway
Why do u have to leave a gap on the floor?
To stop damp rising up from the ground floor slab into the plasterboard & plaster
@@HelpfulHomeDIY ....ohhh that makes sense. Thanks
What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
If you want the plasterboard to be skimmed with plaster it makes no difference which side is facing you. The paper side is placed facing outside if you want to paint it instead of plastering.
One side is for slimming other side for taping
Cant hear what he saying
Turn the volume up
@@HelpfulHomeDIY i have sounds like your mike to far
@@suleymankamran1161 I think I did subtitles for that vid, turn them on if you're struggling
@@HelpfulHomeDIY kool
gee..... i thought u shot this video in 2000
Thanks for your comment, I didn't realise people still said "Gee"!
Why would u plasterboard over brick wall, you sandra cement over it, if you ain't confident to do that gets plasterer in . I've never heard of anyone plaster boarding over brick
Thanks for your comments, all opinions are welcome here
All my house has been plaster boarded over brick there’s nothing wrong in doing it that way.
All new houses are done this way.
@@dannymurphy1779 most are tacked to timber frame