A practical guide on how to tape and joint using British Gypsum’s Gyproc Jointing Products.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- We care about building better performance, so in this video we demonstrate the process of hand taping jointing using British Gypsum’s Gyproc products.
Gyproc Joint Filler is a gypsum-based setting material used for bulk and secondary filling.
Gyproc EasiFill 60 is a combined setting and air-drying product which can be used for bulk filling and fine finishing.
British Gypsum corner tape includes two pieces of pieces of corrosion resistant metal and is used to form external corners. Our paper tape is used to reinforce the joints in-between plasterboards.
This video shows you how to combine these products to create perfect jointing. For further information about them and their application visit british-gypsum.com
We care about building better to help our partner construction customers with high-performance drylining solutions that deliver sustainability and performance for people and our planet.
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This is a really great video. It helps a lot of diy-ers like my self... The guy does a really good job by explaining the process, not rushing. I must compliment the camera job! A lot of videos i have seen are not focusing on the detail of the person is doing quick moves and it's not clear how to use the tools. This is however not the case. Well done and thank you ...
Thanks you for making this video, you show an alternative to hiring a plasterer. I think a decent DIYer will be able to put up plasterboard and fill the joints for very little money. Because of the cost of living here in the UK, caused by a certain group of people in charge of the country, trades have increased their prices too much. I know the cost of materials has gone up but not to the extent that we need a small bank loan to pay their invoice. So, DIYers get off yer arses and have a go at this, it’s not difficult. Also, most people cannot plaster or have the time or inclination to learn, this method of plasterboard and filling is accessible and achievable for a wider base of people to have a go. Love it. 🤘😁🤘
As a carpenter you will be surprised at how much materials have gone up since covid, plus the cost of fuel etc. As an example during early 2020 i used to be able to get 18mm shuttering ply for about £28 per sheet, it's now over £40 per sheet. 18mm birch ply i was getting for £64 a sheet, it is now between £175 - £200 per sheet.
@@carlb401 Yeah, it's a fair point, I've noticed it too, can't not. I'm an amateur woodworker and I'm using a lot of second hand wood, even pallets.
Come to Ireland and you will be astonished at prices! Double, if not triple the UK
@@MeMe-dw1smBeing in Europe I thought it would be cheaper
I'll skim this room in 7 hours, 1-2 days drying, ready to paint😂 no sanding no mess.
Great Video, but here's the thing, I've skimmed hundreds of thousands of square metres of plasterboard in my career, but now for my sins I live in Greece where there is no skim coat plaster, so I have had to resort to taping and jointing :-( I have a small room about 2.5 m square, a door, window, and 5 external corners with small reveals, it would take me about 2.5 hours to skim that lot to an almost mirror finish.
I made a special effort with the plasterboard, all machine cut with a good fit, so extra time there. Since then I have taped and jointed it all and filled and sanded twice and the finish is still nowhere near as good as a skimmed finish, you have to wait at least 24hrs before it's dry enough to sand and then repeat the process.
So far I'm about 3 days in and I would be ashamed of the result if it was skimmed.
I did a fair amount of T&J over the yerars in huge rooms with maybe 30 8' x 4' boards along a wall with just a door and a window, and for that it is great, I simply couldn't skim a room that big in the same time, but in small rooms with lots of corners, windows and doors completely the wrong method! I could have driven back to the UK, collected some Finish, returned and I would have got a better result, it's just the 3600 mile round trip that stopped me doing it :-))
Hello, as a Greek living in UK, I initially found skimming strange 😂. As a person of both worlds, what is the British equivalent of what we call in Greece "sovadisma"? Is it using easyfil to skim coat everything or what this guy is doing in the video? Also, If I plan to use on new plasterboard easyfil to fill in larger gaps and screw holes and then multifinish. Do you know if I should use mesh tape or paper tape for the joints? The americans seem to be using paper, but it's a different process.
Normal angle bead for external corners is much better 👌
Does a normal angle bead fit into the tapered edge of the plasterboard so it's flush?
Would be quicker to plaster it
Good video very clear and professional.👊🏽👏🏽
It’s a good instructional video, but honestly, it’s far quicker to scrim up and skim.
Not if you're not a plasterer :)
Joint filler has an exothermic reation once mixed so it produces heat as it's drying so it needs somewhere for the air to go once it's in the process of drying, using filler and applying paper tape over the top is likely to cause blistering as your covering the joint giving nowhere for the heat and water to evaporate. Paper tape is meant to be set with an air drying material.
thats why when people use scrim tape they use filler as the scrim tape has holes in it giving space for the evaporation of water and the heat to be expelled from the joint and that's why paper tape is meant to be set with joint cement as that's a fully air drying compound so there's no exothermic reaction going on behind the tape.
Not slating the video but I'd have thought British gypsum would be clued up in this aspect, although I can understand him not using British gypsum joint cement as it's the worst on the market lol, good video for anyone new to taping though, good to get a rough idea of the trade.
Which filler would you recommend for plasterboarding. Im a complete novice having a go in my garage. Cheers
@@BS-ix7qp easyfill 60 would be your best bet I’d say mate
@@liamcowan5986 if am putting back a piece of removed finished plasterboard (cut of to fit elec fire)back into a while . Could I use the same process along the joint once I have put back the removed piece ??
Would I be able to get a decent finish after sanded and painted , to blend in with existing finish ?
Would easy fill finish be good for this ?
@@karimkechkar you can do this mate, once the piece of plasterboard goes back in you have to check how level it is (is the plasterboard proud of the existing substrate or sunk in?) this will determine how and where to fill. If it’s proud then you will fill from the highest point to the lowest point to blend in nicely. Remember that it’s better to have multiple thin coats than 1 thick coat trying to fill out everything. Take your time with it. Easy fill will be ideal to use
So which one would you recommend for first second and third coat? Is Smart mix okay for third coat?
Will stick to skimming the walls
Fair comment 😊
No metal beads on the corners is a problem. I know someone who lives in a house built using this technique and the corners have split.
Excellent video..well done 👍👍
This is a great video. I suspect they need to sit some of the plasterers on large building sites like those of the large builders like David wilson homes to watch this to learn how to do things right. They don’t have any pride in their work or knowledge it seems
Fantastic video , thank you
Excellent video
Great video, very helpful. One quick question, will the Gyproc joint filler adhere to a vapor control barrier? We have a Siga Majrex layer exposed in the gaps between the boards in the ceiling and cannot find out if it will adhere to it and the plasterboard. Thanks
Excellent video.
What a carry on.. skim that room in a day, done!!!.. don't understand why big home builders are doing this? Save on drying time
becuase the average man cant plaster - this is doable though.
Most competent people can do this. However finding a decent plasterer who doesn't charge the earth and leaving it looking like the waves of an ocean isn't easy. Once painted tape and jointing leaves the same finish as a top end plasterer at a fraction of the cost
@@asef698 the last sentence is absolutely laughable
I'm making my loft a bit more usable - deluxe storage i think they call it. I was going to skim but I understand that makes the room 'habitable' and would be subject to building regs. Tape and joint is ok though. Crazy maybe but that's the use case I'm watching this video for.
They’ll tape and joint a 3 bed house in a day, then rub it down in a day. All over the course of 3/4 days ( including drying time ). Then ready for painting. Plus it saves 5/6 ton of water going in to the building and saves on the ( lately ) astronomical money good plasterers want to charge. That’s what was told to me anyway by project managers working for one of the biggest builders in UK.
Good video. The easyfill-60 part seems to be edited a incongruously to the process, as he shows the ceiling first with the 300mm easyfill-60, and then shows it on one of the walls?
When you put corner tape in, you didn't put anything on top just scraped paper squeezing everything from underneath. do you not need cover paper in corners right away (50mm on both sides)
like ceiling but joint?
From 10.14 he seems to move to a different room, then adds a coat of easifil 60... is this a third coat or can the rest of the video from thereon be disregarded?
how long did the full process take to complete the room including drying times for the compound and sanding at the end ?
If jointing cut edges (i.e. square, non-tapered), would it be advisable to use a rasp to create a taper?
You'll end up with ragged paper edges which, no matter how much you fill or sand, will show through. Fill over the top with Easifill and taper it out a good 30-60cm either side to disguise the joint.
There’s a lot simpler way to do all of the codes you did there, but still nice content ✌️
Great tutorial thank you. Can you tell me what boards did you fix on were they straight edge.
Tapered edge boards. You can see in a few of the clips where he fills it in
When it comes to sanding what grit of sandpaper do we use thanks
120 or higher ...it rubs down easy.
Tape holder, mud butt,hawk between knees, put up tape wipe spackle go to next. No precut tape, no up and down.much faster, same result!
Great video. Thanks. Can I dot n dab straight onto a single brick garage wall inside without mould issues later?
No
External corners, Tape or Some form of Beading? Would you recommend external cornered to be done with metal beading, I'm thinking its tougher product.
External corners Should be done with metal beading
Is it the compound you use for taping same as for the second coat?
Easifill or the joint compound for the larger gaps?
How wide should the gaps between the boards be? Is there a max width?
You put a spackle knife and a trowel in the hands of a homeowner it's going to be a mess. This guy makes it look easy for demonstration purposes, he's a professional. If you don't have "the touch" hire a professional who knows what he's doing.
I know feck all about this, but one thing has me confused. You have creased the paper tape while using it on a flat joint. I've only seen that done for corners.
Nah it has a crease when you buy it
can you still plaster over the whole plasterboard if you use tapered edge plasteboards?
Yes, very common
on the external corners did you use the same tape? or is it a harder type of corner bead?
Its a different tape Tino, Its got a metal band on it to form a stronger , straighter corner.
The outer corners are reinforced with iron. Because it is susceptible to breakage and shocks
So much easier to plaster!!
Mate why am I getting blisters in the tape? I'm doing it exactly as you. Will they disappear when it dries like wallpaper?
Your not getting enough material behind the tape so its not sticking
How much time should you leave in between coats? I'm going to be using knauf joint filler for all coats.
I work in this field. Can we get to know some craftsmen in this field through social media
Hire a dustless sander system for this best investment , fine dust goes everywhere.
Do you not wet the paper tape less chsnce of it bulling
1st & 2nd coat is all purpose…
Final coat is ? Hard coat
What a palarva ! Is this how they do it in America? This won't catch on in UK.
I do it from time to time but the Americans are so far advanced I think this chap made it look time consuming whereas in the states they have great systems and all of their gear is ready mixed
What part of America has an accent like that? He's also using "Gyproc" branded products which are made by BRITISH gypsum. He's obviously a Brit working in the UK, using British products. It's a very common method used in the UK. It has already caught on.
@@KenFullman Read it again Colombo, where did I say its in America ?
I asked if that's the way it's done over there 🙄
Don’t you use the tape with metal strips on your externals?
0:44 He shows it at the start of the video.....
What is the purpose of the tape? Why not just use filler, obviously I'm no plasterer.
I believe its for support. If you plastered a wall without it then it would end up cracking over time with heat and movement in the boards.
Do the 2nd and final coat go on the same day ?
It’s possible if using a fast set product but I wouldn’t recommend as it’s never 100 percent dry. Also never apply a quick drying product to a painted surface plaster board only.
With flat tapes and externals it’s possible, if small area we use fastset to put on, fastset and promix for second coat and promix for final coat however can’t with internals as internals shouldn’t be put on with fastset
💯👍👍
I've had plasterers, just apply a type of tape that has got holes in it and fill then just fill the lot with plaster.
and I've always had crack marks, good to see it done properly.
It's called "scrim" there's nothing wrong with using it .
That's what you're supposed to use with plaster. It's scrim tape and designed to flex. It's rarely the plasterer's fault that a wall is moving.
Why not foam on that edges ?
Just plaster it and save the faffing😅
Hi brother
F that just skim it
and when the joints move you get cracks.
Erm scrim!? U use scrim m8 over joints! Sam as guys using paper 😂
Couldn't agree more, what a F*** on, I can't get my head round this S**** over skimming, skim in a day and that's it - no return or fannying on sanding down and filling again, like I said, I can't get my head round how this is better than traditional plastering?
H🤣es still there doing that room as we speak
why are we introducing this terrible stuff to the uk market its got no place in any decent building/home.
What do you suggest as an alternative please? Thanks
lol, clearly a plasterer is not happy
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