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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2016
- This video shows how to replace the carbon ring on your Sea-Doo PWC jetski. Performed on a 2004 RXP 215, this step-by-step video takes you through all the critical steps required to replace this critical component.
Bellow: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Bellow Kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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Filmed in the great Pacific Northwest with a Canon T2i camera.
Crushin by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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You guys run an awesome channel! Thanks for the maintenance tips and video work! Have learned a lot about my GTR-x230 over the last several months by watching what you guys do.
You guys make the best pwc videos hands down . Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Great video , Thanks so much for sharing .
No problem its was constructed to help it be perfect. You did a great video your write in doing it fast it would be much longer. Thank you for the information. Should I have some problums like that I will know what to look for my self.
My next project, since my mystery leak has not been resolved… Great video as always, guys!
great video
FYI to others: I recently lost my carbon ring and in turn my 2015 engine after only a 190 hrs. The dealer said the engine flooded after the carbon ring overheated and warped, letting salt water directly past the drive shaft. I didn't know until my ski wouldn't start a few days later, but it was already too late bc the salt water seized the engine quickly. Of course, my local dealer won't honor my bumper-to-bumper 4-year Seadoo warranty so I'm on the hook for $6K to replace the motor. I hope this helps someone. Thanks for your video 3' Deep!
That's crazy. You shouldn't be responsible for your carbon ring "overheating". These machines are run very hard, and I've never heard of such a thing. I would push back on the dealer very hard on this, as I think you'd easily win if it ever went to small claims court. Thanks for your comment.
DEALERS ARE LOUSY I HAVE SAME PROBLEM AND BRP DONT REALLY CARE ,AND I CALLED BOTH WITH A VIDEO PWC ONLY 30 MINUTES TIME. I DIDNT SINK PWC BUT SALT EVERYWHERE. . SO I HAVE TO DO MYSELF PLUS ELECTRIC BILDGE PUMP FOR INSURANCE.
Beautiful job
Thanks, Jordan!
Great video . Sure is nice having a driveshaft that’s not rusted to crap from saltwater lol
You, sir, are a life saver.
These two guys are definitely inspirational in all things Seadoo.. Thanks to Mario and Chris for sharing your hobbies with us.
I wanted to pick the group's brain to ask how on earth you get the replacement carbon seal bellow on the through hull fitting.. I own a 2010 Seadoo Wake Pro 215 and am in the midst of a shaft upgrade and carbon seal replacement while in there..
I have triple checked to be sure i have the right bellow for my machine and I do... The thing is so rigid, I can't seem to stretch it over the rim of the through hull fitting. Anyone experience this? Have any pointers? Thought about heating bellow but do not want to weaken it.. I have wrestled for hours and still can't get it seated where it goes..
Hey, thanks for the kind words. It really shouldn’t be that hard to get it over the rim of the hull. As long as the clamp isn’t too tight (and restricting it), it should go on relatively easily. I would guess that you got the wrong part. Double-check with your dealer that you’ve got the right part for your machine, as there are lots of different sizes out there. Good luck!
Great video. I'm about to do this job for my ski and I'm wondering why you didn't leave the pump on to prevent the drive shaft from moving instead of using the alignment tool with spacers?
You can, but the tool eliminates possible damage to the pump if you’re pushing and shoving the driveshaft back at fourth. It’s also a little easier to remove if you’re going to do the job in a few phases.
GREAT video! I have a 2007 GTX 155/STD. I was getting some cavitation when taking off. I've replaced the wear ring and impeller. I'm wondering if it's worth just doing the carbon ring while I have the drive shaft support on and the pump out. It's new to me, and it's got 200-ish hours on it. I haven't seen any water in it, but I've also read that the carbon ring can be another potential source of cavitation.
It can be a source, but as you don’t have any signs of water in the hull then I doubt that is your issue. If it were us, if we were confident that there was 200 hours on the carbon ring we would replace it, however, it is not an easy job. You will need to pull the driveshaft out, and this can be a little difficult. But if you have the skills, the tools and the time…
This video is very helpful. I work on everything in the world, but this is my first time really digging into Jetski’s.
I knew there was some problems with these two Jetski’s. I picked up cheap, so I jumped on the basic maintenance, spark plugs, oil/oil filter and antifreeze, then went from there. I am mediately could hear bearings in the jet propulsion system during its initial warm up in the water on the trailer. After spending hours lol trying to remove the jet propulsion system I removed the cone and was blasted by muddy water and severely corroded bearings. I removed the impeller cover, which is under the intake screen and sprayed PB blaster on to the splines to attempt to free up the impeller. Which I was unsuccessful so it looks like my next route is to purchase the carbon seal kit removal tool and remove the entire shaft in order to get the impeller and propulsion system off. 😖.
Even know both these JetSki’s from 2007 have not even 30 hours on them. It’s amazing how poor things are when they’re not taking care of.
Have a great day I like the video.
Hey, thanks for your comment. If either of your new skis are Sea-Doos with a supercharger, make sure it's rebuilt before doing anything else as 2007 models were known to have the ceramic washers that were prone to failure. The supercharger bearings will also be long past their expiration date. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thank you very much. I appreciate that tip.
The engines on both sound healthy. I started them briefly so I can warm up the engines to change the oil since they’ve been sitting for quite some time.
At that time I can hear those bearings on the propulsion pump, but one thing I can tell you about mechanical equipment. If somethings not stored properly, you’re just bound to have problems.
You’re absolutely right. But unless you can confirm that your supercharger has been rebuilt (if you have one), I wouldn’t run your engine. The guy who owned the last one we rebuilt said he knew about the supercharger issue but decided to take it for “one last ride” before rebuilding it. It failed on that ride and cost him >$3,000 to repair (that’s about average, it can be even more expensive). Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel yes, they both are identical Jetski’s. Both pure lack of maintenance from the previous owner. I got them real cheap. Any particular warning signs on the supercharger before failure? I had a Sea-Doo jet boat about five years ago, and I was told at 90 hours of operation to rebuild the supercharger. But again these Jetski’s only have 30 hours.
It’s catastrophic failure, so normally no warning signs. It’s not just the time, it’s the age. Even rebuilt superchargers require rebuilding every 5 years or so. Are your machines over 185 HP?
Thanks for the video, can you please clarify on draining cooling system and engine oil? Is it necessary or can I get away without doing it? 2013 GTR 215.
We don't normally drain the coolant, but you could lose a lot of oil into the hull if you don't remove the oil. If it's good oil, you can always reuse it. Good luck!
great video !!! in my case the bushing grabbed because the shaft is very rusty, I think I'll have to cut the bushing, does it have another solution?
They all get a bit rusty. Keep working on it. I wouldn't cut it.
Hello there sr Thank you for all your work 👌 question ?? Where I can find the shaft support plate that you use to support the shaft in place??
They differ depending on what machine you have. If you know the part number, try here: 3ftdeepsports.com/store-tools-specialty/
First of all, thank you so much for the video, very well done.
I currently have a Speedster 200 2004 with twin 155.
I guess the procedure is the same.
I saw in few comments that you are talking about upgraded kit. Should upgraded kit work on my boat ?
Also, how do we know if the shaft is aligned properly. Is there any indicator when miss aligned?
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the procedure is generally the same. When you order the new OEM parts, they will be the “upgraded” ones. That usually means a stiffer rubber bellow, and a larger metal “hat” that presses agains the carbon ring. If the engine is misaligned, you’ll often get uneven wear on your carbon ring, possible engine vibration, and possibly water seeping into the boat. You can also get excessive wear of the drive shaft splines. Good luck!
I'm doing a long block replacement on one of these. I have everything disassembled except for the drive shaft is still connected. Do I need to do the same thing as in the video? Or can I unbolt that bellhousing and pull the motor?
Almost. This video is probably a better video to watch for what you're doing ... th-cam.com/video/YwafUQsA_Ro/w-d-xo.html. Good luck.
Question sir. My carbon seal failed on my 2009 gti 130. The shaft for my model was only made for 2 years 2009 and 2010. Can I use my existing shaft for the new carbon seal? I'm not sure if the 2009 shaft comes with the C clip.
I have a 2009 GTI SE 155. The drive shaft on these models threads in, reverse thread. In order to repair it, you have to order an upgrade kit, which includes the more common "C" clip shaft, carbon seal and bearing.
Hello, I just came across this video and it was informative. I have a 2002 seadoo gtx di. I pulled the drive shaft out and am replacing the boot and ring and bellows. I would like to know what the drive shaft goes into that in the back of the motor is called? Is a bearing of some sort and does it come apart and can be replaced if at all possible. If you are familiar with what I am talking about any information would be helpful
Your model is a bit different than the one we're working on. I suggest going to Sea-Doo's website parts section and looking at their expanded diagram to see what you need: www.sea-doo.ca/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
Hello and thanks for the awesome videos. I have the 2005 Seadoo Rxp SC 215 hp as in your video. I followed your video and everything was going great until I got to where I needed to pull the floating ring back to remove the c clip. It’s stuck, will not budge. So I cut the rubber boot off so I had a better look (I have all the replacement parts). Cut a block of wood to pry against and it still will not budge. I’m currently soaking it with WD40. I also purchased the drive shaft position tool and don’t want to buy 328790 drive shaft floating ring tool WSM 950-100 if I don’t have too. Any ideas? Thanks
That clip can be a huge pain in the neck. We suggest spraying some penetrating oil under the support ring and keep working it. The key is to be patient and keep working on it. It’ll eventually come. The floating ring/drive shaft tool should make the job much easier. Good luck!
Do you always use the oe parts for he carbon ring replacement. Im seeing WSM, and other aftermarket kits. Im not all that familiar with the different pros and cons of the available parts or kits.
For that and other critical parts I would suggest only going with the OEM parts. Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Congratulations 👍
Thanks.
@@3ftDeepChannel I have many questions for manutence in my Jet XP 96...
I want make repair ALL Jet ski Seadoo
Ask away ...
HI!
just a quick question when watching this video to prepare for the carbon seal change. You/the service manual wrote that you should use XPS synthetic grease for the shaft. In the video I think I saw that you used tripple guard grease (it's blue and I guess XPS is not ;) ). Is there a reason? would it be better against corrosion?
The service manual for our machine said to use triple guard grease. We found that stuff to be incredible. Not sure how the XPS grease would perform, but we are happy with the triple guard Nd only use it on our machines. Good luck.
@3ftDeep Hello, I just removed the shaft on a 2015 GTR 215 to replace the worn carbon seal. I had a friend watch the shaft while I slowly pulled it away from the engine and of course the “Hat” fell to the inside of the hull which was easily retrieved but as in your video, my friend is unsure if a 2nd part fell to the hull and is hiding under the engine where we cannot see it. Looks like a bearing when I slow down and pause your video however I don’t see you place anything back onto the shaft upon re-assembly, just the hat which butts up to the carbon seal. Can you confirm for me please if there is in fact two pieces which simply fall off the shaft when removing? Or is the hat the only part connected to the shaft before sliding into the bearing which is held onto the engine by a rubber sleeve with clamp. Thanks again for the video.
Rather than try to have us explain, it’s probably best if you went to the parts fiche on the Sea-Doo website. They have and expanded diagram of all the parts on your machine. That will show you if you are missing anything. Good luck.
Is it not advisable to put a layer of grease between the carbon seal and the bushing it presses against? It seams like a layer of grease would not only lube the two surfaces against friction/wear but also provide some water proofing/sealing. Thoughts?
Well, BRP went for a mechanical seal, not a chemical seal. I think that's because it's not a closed system, and the grease would wash out in the first few minutes, so there would be no use. Thanks for your comment.
Hi,my rxp215 2004 had a leak one day on the lake water coming out in between the carbon ring and steel hat,I replaced with new driveline kit bellow,carbon ring,hat still taking on water in the same place no visable gap any idea mate?
Please see my reply to your other comment. Could also be a problem with the pump, or engine alignment.
Very informative and has helped me a lot. I am doing this now on a 06 RXT. When you removed the drive shaft the PTO Bearing came out and into the bottom as did mine. Is there anything special to be done when reinstalling the bearing? New clamp etc?
There are some considerations. Pay particular attention starting from 3:00 mark. If you can get a hold of a service manual, that would be very helpful with doing these types of jobs. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for your reply. I understand having to be flush and aware of the tell tale but what I am concerned with is the bearing just pushed back in place once it falls out? A new clamp needed? or will it seal properly just being pushed back in? Thanks again
You should use a new clamp just to make sure it's secure, although I believe we just pushed it back in place in that video. In other repairs we used new clamps. You don't need to use the factory-installed Sea-Doo gear clamp, but a stainless steel one is a must. See also from 12:48 in the following video: th-cam.com/video/PSNrLo7MHDc/w-d-xo.html. Good luck.
Those parts you have listed are they for 2007 rXP supercharge pwc…What about the specialized parts are used to have part numbers for those I’m going to do this on my ski I’m also going to do the seal on the pump also do you have a video on how to pull the motor I have an oil leak and I think it’s the oil cooler
We have a number of videos where we pull the motor. You should check those out. Also, Sea-Doo has parts diagrams for every model that they sell and have sold. You should check out their website. Good luck.
Would that carbon ring fit on a 2012 seafoo rxt 260 is ?? And if so what’s the part # for the larger one ??
The part number of the carbon ring for the 2012 RXT 260 aS is 271001420. That's the one you should order. Check out Sea-Doo's parts website at: www.sea-doo.ca/content/seadoo/en_CA/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
What do you have clamped to the old bellow? Is it used to keep bellow tight against the hat?
I'm not sure what you mean. What is the time stamp in the video that you're referring to?
mine is making a squealing/whine noise from the driveshaft area that sounds like a bad bearing. Could it be the carrier bearing gone bad?
Can you be a bit more specific? Does it sound like it’s coming from the pump, the carbon seal, or the engine side?
I have a 2012 Sea doo wake 155 just put new motor in and took it out for about 30 mins and take seat off to find a bunch of water inside hull. My question is if the carbon ring is bad can it produce a lot of water in hull and if so is there a way I can test it out of the water running with a hose?
Unfortunately, no. What we've done in the past is take it to the launch, secure it to the dock, put it in neutral, uncover the rubber shroud over the carbon ring and check for spray while giving it a bit of gas. Good luck.
Addison Logan my seadoo wake is doing same. It’s leaking bad past this carbone seal. Just drop it in the water behind your trailer and lift seat and take a look. You have plenty of time to see it leaking, then put it back on the trailer take it home and come on to you tube and try learn how to replace.
DO you normally use OEM parts or have you tried the aftermarket driveline kits?
We always use OEM parts for critical components like jet pump and carbon ring.
I have a 2016 gti se 155 with 65 hours . When do I need to replace the seal on mine!
Only when you start to see water accumulating in the bottom of your hall after a ride. Or, if you see evidence of water spraying up from the seal. Under normal use it should last hundreds of hours. Thanks for your comment.
Is there any reason you can’t just leave the jet pump on the ski while removing the retaining clip, instead of using that drive shaft tool?
Yes, it’s possible to damage the pump during removal of the clip (as it can be very difficult to remove). That being said, more than one person has left the pump on instead of getting the tool.
In watching the video, there is a point where there are a couple of "X" showing on the screen where the shaft has a blue line on it, that appear to indicate that it is not far enough in, yet nothing showing if something needed to be done to adjust the clearance or if screen information being shown was wrong or just not clear. I'm not sure how that drive shaft support where the C clip goes would be considered a support, if it is not mounted to anything to provide actual support.
When the telltale groove is still visible, the shaft should be slid further into the engine. First, make sure that the inner sleeve is flush with the outer circumference of the PTO seal assembly. I know it sounds confusing, but when you're doing it you should be able to see what we mean. The way it works is that the rubber boot is mounted to the hull and carbon ring and pushes the carbon ring forward. The carbon ring pushes against the support ring (looks like a hat) and creates the water seal. The only thing stopping the support ring from sliding forward along the shaft is the C-clip.
Did you by chance change the carbon seal because the ski was leaking water into the haul ? This is what going on with mine and I’m not sure how to even test where the water might be coming from
One way to test your carbon ring is to secure it to your trailer, remove the seat, put it in the water (still attached to your car/truck), start up your machine and rev the engine a bit and see if any spray comes from the carbon ring area. If water starts leaking or spraying from the seal, it'll need replacing. Good luck.
Is normal that the driveshaft move like you can move it to the top and the bottom like is loose
Yes, a little bit of slack is normal. You need to ensure that it is left in the position as we show our video, though. Good luck.
my SeaDoo XP is a 96 and I don't think it requires that C ring... Do you know if this is true? The kit came with one, but my book doesn't say anything about it...
It looks like your driveshaft doesn't need the C-Clip. You can see the expanded diagram at the following URL: www.sea-doo.ca/shop/essentials/parts-.html
Do you need to pull the driveshaft with a lot of effort to get it out, I’ve done everything you did but can’t get the driveshaft to move more than 1-2 inches out. It’s as if the bearing carrier outer ring is being stubborn and won’t let the shaft slide through.
Brian Pabian my support ring was completely rusted onto the drive shaft, so I had to cut the drive shaft inside the hull and order a new one. Does your support ring at least move?
Support ring will turn with a pair of channel locks but not by hand. PITA, Ive tried soaking it with some lube but no luck. Didn't really want to cut shaft and buy a new carrier bearing.
What’s the best inspection method for a carbon seal or do you go by hourly maintenance?
Very good question. The carbon seals should be good for 150 to 200 hours, or more. It really depends on how the machine is being ridden, and in what conditions. One tell tale sign that it’s failing is that there will be water left in the boat at the end of each ride. The best way to check for a leak is to launch the boat, tether it securely at the dock and lift up the rubber flap while it’s running to see if there’s any spray. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you. Great advice.
Hi I purchased the drive shaft bearing and boot for the replacement of the carbon seal 2008 rxtx (as my drive shaft was corroded and the beaing inner had been damaged while getting it out). The drive shaft bearing I purchased seems quite stiff. Are they normaly tight hard to turn? Or do they spin easy?
It’s been a while since we have handled one of those, but although we don’t remember it spinning to freely, we don’t remember it offering too much resistance, either. You may have an old bearing so if you have the chance, see if you can compare it to another one at your local dealer just to be sure it’s OK. Good luck.
Having same issue. Can’t get the floating bearing with the O rings to fit into the driveshaft… Wondering if the replacement part is too small. The old one has damaged O rings I’ll prob replace those and just reuse the old one.
Good luck to you.
Hola amigo la pieza que pones en la bomba para subjeta el eje donde la puedo buscar estoy en puerto rico
Prueba nuestra tienda de Amazon en el siguiente enlace: 3ftdeepsports.com/store-tools-specialty/
Good video. What brand is that seat cover?
Jet Trim premium cover.
Hey late to the party.... Do you have any videos of doing a. Carbon seal on newer sea doos? Would love to see the difference
It is essentially the same process. The only difference may be the removal of the iBR.
Dear guys, I have a problem with my rxp 255, I'm trying to remove the shaft, but the support ring doesn't slide back because the shaft is rusty, how can I do? to warm the support ring? How?
Are you using the special tool designed for removal of the C-clip? Also, it's a 2-person job, one person uses the tool to expose the clip, and the other struggles with the C-clip to remove it. Use some penetrating oil a few times over 10 or 15 minutes. Keep working at it and be patient. It's a tough job getting that damn C-clip off. Good luck!
Great video but it was vary fast on some of the showings of pieces for some of us slower learners. My question is how many hours on the watercraft and what maid you decided to change the carbon ring and why? Was it leaking in side?
Sorry about the speed, but it's always a challenge to condense these repairs into as short a time as possible (people seem to have little time) and still include the important steps. The owner of the machine was experiencing significant intake of water during use. We narrowed it down to the carbon ring assembly. It was either the carbon ring (face not perfectly flat and perpendicular to axis of drive shaft), a weak rubber bellow, or both (probably the bellow, in my opinion). While you've got it all apart, however, it's a good idea to change the entire assembly. The repair resolved the problem. Thanks for your comment.
3ftDeep Question sir. My carbon seal failed on my 2009 gti 130. The shaft for my model was only made for 2 years 2009 and 2010. Can I use my existing shaft for the new carbon seal? I'm not sure if the 2009 shaft comes with the C clip.
If you go to the parts store on the Sea-Doo website, you can order all of the parts that are relevant to your model by looking at their parts diagram. Good luck!
How do you know if it needs to be replaced
If you start to find water accumulating in the hull during a ride, or if you see water spraying in from that seal, it likely needs replacing.
So the new larger support ring..is that an updated part..if a guy ordered a new support ring I would receive the larger one?
It appears to be. I think it was upgraded 4 or 5 years ago, so if you've got an older machine it'll likely come with a larger diameter support ring, or whatever their engineers now feel is best for your machine.
Hello, I have a 2016 sea doo se 130, how could I know the # of parts of the carbon ring and bellow, thank you.
You can find part numbers for your machine on Sea-Doo’s website: sea-doo-shop.brp.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/?aribrand=SEA_DOO_EN_CA_CAD
I installed a new carbon ring. The new carbon ring leaks between the new carbon ring and the stainless ring. Should I run the ring dry to get a finer seal?
No, don't doo that. Did you also replace the stainless steel ring? Is your rubber bellow pressing the carbon ring hard against the stainless steel ring? Also double-check to make sure all the clamps are tightened securely and properly.
3ftDeep Replaced driveshaft, carbon ring, stainless ring, and boot. It’s leaking between the stainless and carbon ring. Almost as if it’s not being pressed hard enough on the stainless ring. Driving me crazy lol
did you remember to put theC-clip on? It’s also possible that it came unclipped and fell off.
i have a yahama 2004 and the battery was dying. i changed the stator, the rectifier and the battery. But the battery is still dying. any ideas my friend?
Have you checked the voltage across the battery before and while the engine is running? If so, what are the voltages?
I'm trying to remove the floating ring with the floating ring tool. It just won't seem to slide back so I can see the clip. The floating ring support tool won't fit on the shaft like the illustration in the manual describes either. Is it normal for it to be this difficult to remove? The removal part goes through quickly on the video. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks!
They can be VERY difficult to remove. We made it look easy to keep the video short. Rust ends up “welding” the floating ring onto the driveshaft making a very tough (and awkward) job. You may also have the wrong size floating ring tool. Stick with it, maybe apply a little heat and some additional “persuasion” with carefully placed taps of a hammer. BTW, there is another long tool that uses leverage and can help make the job much easier. We sometimes use that tool and it can be found here: www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF9FQ6T/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=5540c6335d6bf6509789ba9e91facfd3&creativeASIN=B06XF9FQ6T
It’s a bitch and don’t think it’s possible without that tool. Then I caught someone using this tool. And found it on Amazon.
What tool are you referring to, HVAC?
Hey how did you end up getting the driveshaft in enough so you can't see the tailgate groove ?
The drive shaft should be able to slip in to the engine. Make sure the splines are lined up correctly, and the bearing and bellows assembly 0n the engine can slide out a little bit.
@@3ftDeepChannel The driveshaft is all the way in on the splines. The pto bearing does not want to slide the extra 1/8" to cover the tailgate groove.
excellent video!!! i did replace all parts shaft, carbon seal, bearing, all clamps, pump and now my shaft keeps coming out wen i start to take off, any ideas whats the problem?
all parts are identical to de old ones
Are you sure the shaft is the same length as the old one? Also, check to make sure your C-Clip is still in place holding the support ring. The shaft shouldn't noticeably slide.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for answering, the length is the same as the old one, and the C-clip stays on his place, but i see the shaft move towards the engine around 4000rpms then comes loose
Have you checked your pump? Could be a loose impeller, or bad pump bearing also.
@@3ftDeepChannel the pump is Brand new from SBT, impeller is nicely tight, is just one of those problems hahaha, the shaft has the stop rubber too, the reason i replaced the shaft was for carbon seal, it was so corroded that can't remove any bearing or c-clip
You shouldn't be having that problem. Very unusual and difficult to troubleshoot online. You may need to take it to your dealer/mechanic to have it checked out.
Hey in the video you make it look like the drive shaft just flies out once the c clip is removed. Mine is not pulling out as it seems to be a very tight fit where the pto seal goes over the drive shaft, some one on the forum mentioned to get some one to pull on the driveshaft while you tap the seal back with a brass punch. Is that whats normally required? Also do i need to replace the two o rings inside the pto shaft seal? Thanks!
Sometimes they're relatively easy to get off, other times they can be difficult. Before using a hammer on it, I'd check out Sea-Doo's parts catalog (shop.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/) to make sure there isn't some unusual configuration that needs to be dealt with. I'd also try using some good penetrating oil before resorting to too much force. I'd also replace the O-rings while you have the opportunity. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel just for anyone who may have a similar experience in order to get the drive shaft out without pulling on it too hard and risking destroying the bearing inside the bellow on the pto side of the driveshaft i got some one to pull on the driveshaft with medium force while i gave a few taps to the bearing in the boot with a brass punch and a dead blow hammer whitch was just enough to gently dissengage the driveshaft from the bearing which has some resistance because of the 2 o rings in the bearing and then the drive shaft just popped right out like it did in the video and all went smooth after that. Thanks to 3ftDeep for the input and advice!
Thanks for the update. Glad it worked out.
I'm having a ton of trouble pushing back the support ring (top hat collar) enough to put the c clip in. Is this common with a new bellows and support ring? I've tried prying it back but it only moves back about half an inch, and I need it to move about an inch
Try pulling the pump back off and putting a normal sized socket inside the splines where the driveshaft goes then bolt the pump back on, this will give you that extra inch to pull the hat and slide the clip on. Then you pull the pump back off and remove the socket and put it all back together again. At least it worked for me.
That's always a tough job. We use a special tool (about $100 bucks) to help with wedging the top hat collar away from the groove. It's really a 2 person job. We also often keep the pump on to stop the driveshaft from sliding backwards. Good luck!
Could you please tell how long it take to do the job?
Depending on how long it takes to remove your C-clip, I would budget at least three hours.
I have a 2020 spark with 8 hours on it and every once a while motor will just rev up and go around 5 mph no debris in pump then it will all a sudden just hook up and drive fine could this carbon seal be the problem
It doesn't sound like it. Sounds like a pump issue. As it's on warranty, you should get your dealer to address the problem. Good luck.
The sparks don't have carbon seals.
Im having trouble removing the driveshaft, I disassembled the c clip already but the bearing kinda stuck on the drive shaft, what do you think should I do? So I can remove the drive shaft
Do you mean it's stuck in the bearing in the bellows assembly attached at the engine?
@@3ftDeepChannel hi mate can i pick your brain for just a moment...i have a 96 seadoo sportster single engine 717cc. Motor is had it and can't justify big money on rebuilding an engine with very little power....so...im putting a ej25 subaru impreza motor in it lol yep i know..anyway with all the challenges I'm overcoming I'm curious about the existing water muffler? Is it needed will I take in water without it? Cheers from Australia.
@@Subaruej20 I believe the waterbox acts as a muffler for sound suppression and helps cool the exhaust gases as the gases are mixed with water before exiting through the rubber hose to the exterior of the hull notice how the rubber hose is routed up high from the waterbox to the exit so water cannot be easily forced back into the waterbox when the boat is parked in the water not running.
The Impreza motor sounds like a great project and a very Aussie thing to do ! I think the biggest challenge is going to be fabricating or finding water cooled exhaust manifolds sounds like a fun project post a video when you get it running.
@@3ftDeepChannel ok yes I see...it keeps it above the water line..ok will keep that in mind...yes a very aussie thing to do for sure lol...yes the exhausts will be a challenge....getting a headache thinking about it but once it's all done it will be a huge improvement. Jumping each hurdle as i get to them lol. Love your channel and will definitely send a video for you to feature. Cheers and stay safe.
What happens if the tell tale groove is still visible? My pump is on and everything is put on and very easy to instal but I think I can see that groove on the shaft still. Is that normal? Only thing that’s weird is that the boot that holds the carbon ring is vibrating like crazy outside of the water
Hey, Ben. Here’s what the service manual for a 2018 RXP-X machine says about the issue: “If the telltale groove is exposed the installation is wrong and PTO assembly will be pressed into crankshaft splines which could rub a hole in seal thus creating an oil leak.” That being said, we’ve seen it exposed a bit before without issue. Good luck.
I think that happens to my brother 2016 rxpx 300 jet ski after replacing carbon seal in the water jet ski runs normal but when flushing it it vibrates and sounds like it getting stuck and shut off automatically. Is it related to tell grove not been sitted properly?
Probably not, unless you see oil in the bottom of the hull. More likely the problem is with the pump, or the engine is out of alignment. I would pull the pump and make sure the splines on the driveshaft going into the impeller are in good shape and properly greased. Good luck.
Where can I find that special tool you used to push the crankshaft
I assume you mean “driveshaft”? I’m not sure if you’re referring to the floating ring tool, but you’ll need to get one for your specific machine. If you freeze frame while we install it you can see the part number of the one we used. We also used a tool to stop the driveshaft from sliding back. Again, you’ll need to get one that fits your machine. Other than that, I don’t think we used any other specialized tools. I another video we do use a specialized C-clip removal tool that leverages off the engine block. You can get that and other Sea-Doo tools from SBT. Good luck.
Hi how would you know that it's time to do this repair? I took my boat out of storage a few days ago and after I started it there was a loud screeching coming from the jet pump area every few seconds. Might that be a sign or could that also be an issue with the jet pump?
There are a number of different symptoms, but you need to be careful because sometimes there are more than one causes of the symptom. In my opinion, it's the rubber boot that start to fail, not the carbon ring. But when you replace the boot, you may as well replace the ring, as it's a wear item and it's a hassle to replace. When the boot is starting to lose its spring you may feel lots of cavitation from start (i.e. it's trying to go, but can't seem to get a "grip" on the water). Also, you may experience water spray inside your engine. When you start seeing water droplet stains on your valve cover. You may actually see spraying inside your hull when in revving in neutral. If you pull back the rubber cover over the carbon ring, you can sometimes tell that it's worn down. If it goes wears past the tapered area (i.e. no taper is left), it should be replaced. Under normal use, I'd expect it to last at least 200 hours though.
I missed the second part of your question. Squealing from your jet pump is NOT GOOD. It is likely bearing failure. Remove your pump and check that it spins smoothly, and ensure no water is in the pump mixed with the grease. Good luck.
3ftDeep Okay. I will inspect when it is nice out. Thank you for the reply
Sir I have a question that I hope you might answer. I have a 2016 sea doo gti se 130, everything is in excellent condition with only 55 hrs on it. But recently after riding it a few time, i accidently sucked in some rocks and now the ski wont go passed 10mph and starts vibrating and forcing itself. Any idea what it could be? I think its the carbon ring because the ani freeze bottle has residue on it which wasnt there before. But what do you think? Thanks
Yes, you probably have a rock(s) stuck in your impeller. You'll need to either fish them out through your intake grate with a tool (like the one we made in a previous video), or remove the iBR and pump to get to the rock(s) that way. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Sorry to bother you again. I checked my impeller for any rocks stuck but there werent any. My jet ski still wont go passed 10mph and starts forcing itself to the point where it starts vibrating. Could it be the carbon ring? I found black residue on the ground below the seat and on the antifreeze bottle.
It could be your carbon ring. I’ve never heard of it getting damaged that way, but it is possible. You should try to tether it securely at a dock and run it while in the water and see if water sprays up from the carbon rang. I would still bet money on there being something stuck between your impeller and wear ring. Let me know what you find, and take a very thorough look at the area around your impeller. Good luck.
I have a new SEADOO 2018 left over only 6 months old ,gti se 130 out the door the carbon seal leaked dealer wont even admit to seal leaking etc etc so I have to buy all tools etc and do it my self. the question is WHEN I ORDER CARBON SEAL KIT WILL I GET THE LARGER ONE OR IS THERE A DIFFERENT PART NuMBER THAT I WILL NEED OR DO I HAVE TOO GET THE SEAL FOR THE 300 HP WHICH ANOTHER VIDEO SHOWS IT BEING LARGER ETC ETC I looked at seal its mint so its either short or engine out of alignment or both .
Unless you see proof that it is your carbon seal, I wouldn't jump to conclude that water in the hull equates to a bad seal. They're relatively expensive and it's quite a hassle to do the job to replace it. It's also normal to get some leakage of water into the hull. I'd check your seal by putting your machine in the water, tethering it to the dock (very strongly), moving away the rubber cover over the seal while revving the engine a few thousand RPMs. You can usually tell if the seal is bad by doing that as water will spray out of the seal. If there is water leaking, take a video of it and bring it to your dealer ...it is still on warranty after all. It may be the engine alignment though, which I've heard is an issue in a number of machines. That's more likely. If you do have to replace the seal, you should use the one for your machine in the parts diagram on the Sea-Doo website. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel i did see it leaking even made a video .
Mate I just bought a new rxpx300 and 7hrs later the carbon seal has failed. Lucky Seadoo is fixing through warranty.
That’s totally bizarre. We have a machine with 900 hours on it and the carbon ring is like new.
I'm at 1:15 in the video, trying to remove the top back back to expose the c-clip. What "tools" are used here to do this? This video makes it look too easy lol. Thanks!
It can be very tough to get out. It usually rusts and causes it difficult to slide the metal 'hat' off. The best thing to use is a drive shaft tool, or carbon ring removal tool. You can find it on our website at the following URL: 3ftdeepsports.com/store-tools-specialty/. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for the reply. I actually just got it off, I noticed you put a block of wood against the supercharger. I used that and an old ball joint fork with pipe for extra leverage and came off easily.
Glad to hear! After destroying several blocks of wood, we forked out the extra cash and got the tool. If you’re only working on your machine, I’m sure the block will serve you fine.
Good video. One thing I learned you do not want to run this watercraft more then 30 seconds out of the water it wrecks the carbon rings. Even if your flushing it. SBT told me about it. They run hot because of friction and water is a lubricator for the one in the water. No more them 30 seconds. Now if you put them in the water then its ok.
You're right. The water only cools the exhaust system; the carbon ring will get hot very quickly. Thanks for your comment.
I ADD FRESH WATER INTO HULL TO ALLOW CARBON SEAL TO STAY WET PLUS IM THINKING THE FRESH WATER WILL HELP RINSE THE SALTWATER OUT THE HULL . I RUN IN ONLY SALTWATER
I have heard that removing the clip and items before the jet pump is easier. Is this true and does it run any risks?
You may want to do that if you don't have the tool that we used to keep the shaft from sliding. The issue is that if you really need to force the shaft back to remove the clip, you could damage the pump seal(s). Better to use the metal driveshaft support. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel ok yeah it's only $20 I'll just order one for spring and not worry about breaking it. THANKS!
Please help. I just took my 2016 seadoo gti se155 to the lake . It was running rough I had throttle wide open and it was running like it wasn't getting gas. In sports mode it was running a lil better but not much . I forgot to winterize it with gas treatment the last year so I just added fresh gas . After about 20 mins of running rough it started running like normal . But now I took it out today and same thing .what could it be?
When was the last time you checked/changed your spark plugs?
@@3ftDeepChannel 2 years ago
Check them out, first. Make sure they’re not fouled, and they haven't come loose. Let us know what you find.
Thanks you, I will check those Out
Is this similar, if not the same, procedure for a 2003 Seadoo GTX 4tec Supercharged? Recently I took it out to a lake and after 5 min of riding, it started overheating and I found a puddle of oil and water mixed at the bottom of the hull so I'm thinking its the PTO seal.
I had the same machine a few years ago and it's generally the same. An oil and water mixture is not a good thing. Hopefully they got there by two separate means. Definitely check the oil in your engine first to make sure you don't have it mixing in your engine. If you don't, then you should investigate where the oil and water are coming from. We have other videos on engine rebuilding, etc. that will be more useful than the carbon ring replacement video if your issue is more than just water leaking from your carbon ring seal. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel When I got home, I did pump out the remaining oil which wasn't much but it did look like it had mixed. What could this mean? Also the back of the hull look like oil had been splashed around while the front was dry, I'm not sure if it was cause the drive shaft was moving or something else.
It could be that you have 2 problems. Even if the oil and water are mixing, it shouldn’t be in your hull. If I were you I’d first identify where the seal failure is on your engine. Do you notice any loss of coolant? If so it could be that you’ve got a water pump seal failure.
@@3ftDeepChannel No coolant loss that I notice, reservoir is still full. Should I add oil to see if there a noticeable leak?
@arathnido336 That’s good about the reservoir. The problem is that the water needs to get out of your engine immediately. You should evacuate it completely ASAP. If you can’t see where it’s coming from examining the engine (check the oil cooler hoses, etc.), then you could thoroughly clean the outside of the engine, fill it with fresh oil and run it on a hose for a minute or so and check to see if any leak is visible. You may have to let the engine cool for 10-15 minutes and run it again for a minute or so. I’d do this up to 3 or 4 times but not much more so you don’t burn out your carbon ring and overheat your exhaust. This process might show where the leak is, but if water and oil is mixing it might not show up until you run it in the water and the water through the exhaust has the opportunity to mix with the engine oil. Hopefully this isn’t happening, but it sounds like it is. Anyways, as you troubleshoot this issue make sure you don’t leave ANY water in your engine as this will quickly destroy your engine from the inside. You may have to change the oil a number of times during this process. Good luck.
I've installed my new carbon seal, and was on the water for 5 hours for engine break in, after I went fast, the "half ring" that holds everything on carbon seal just fell off. Any idea why it would fall off? When I insalled it, made sure it was installed right. I almost submerged my jet ski with a brand new engine on it. Thanks.
I wonder if you didn’t slide the support ring over the C-clip. It’s critical that you do so so the C-clip is within the support ring and can’t pop out.
@@3ftDeepChannel I did slide it over it. I think it is because I put grease in to that channel where C ring goes in to, and it was spinning in that channel making it bigger. I'll have to replace driveshaft if C ring will come off again. I might be wrong.
Definitely use a new C clip whenever you remove it. Also, don’t use grease in the groove, only a little bit on the O-rings if you have them on your machine. When the C- clip goes on, it should snap on and you should not be able to remove it easily. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you.
@@3ftDeepChannel when you slide the floating ring over the c clip, should it actually snap over it or just push it until it stops? Not sure if it’s all the way on.
Hey guys i went to replace my carbon ring and noticed that how it was wearing the engine needed to be aligned. I priced out the tool and was not willing to pay $1.300 for it. I brought it to the dealer to do it for me and told them that I have it all apart so what would it cost to align. They told me a hours labor which I fund to be fair, but they then told me that they can not guarantee that it is aligned properly because they need to put the drive shaft and pump Back on to adjust the drive line alignment and it would de 6 hours in labour. Is there something I am missing to understand. Is it not the reason of the Alignment tool to fix that. You guys are awesome keep up the awesome videos
You’re right. They shouldn’t need to put the driveshaft back on. Once you have the jet pump off, you mount the alignment bracket and insert the tool. You then shim the motor mounts (if needed) until the tool goes in “smoothly”. You shouldn’t need to take off the motor mount to shim the engine. In the older machines it is often the metal “hat” that seals with the carbon ring that was most of the problem and it has been helped with a new part number that supersedes the older one. So, if you find you don’t need much alignment adjustment, make sure you replace that metal hat (along with your carbon ring, rubber bellows and C-clip. Good luck.
I purchased all new carbon ring kit update and many more seals as a tech my self I won’t reuse any seal. Thanks for your help once again I will start to put it back together
Looks like you might be missing rubber bumpers on the sides of your driveshaft?
I don’t believe so. Some driveshafts have rubber on either end, some don’t. Sea-Doo is great at providing exploded diagrams of each unit so you can see what’s supposed to be there.
Hi there 3ft deep! I just had an issue where my 2008 seadoo GTX wake threw a 0267 code for short or open circuit for injector. It’s thrown it for multiple injectors on the rotax engine. Its really weird. It threw the code and kept running fine in the water. Then it started to run rough after 15 minutes. Is this a common issue you’ve dealt with?
No, it’s not a common issue but given that your machine is 13 years old, it’s not surprising that you start encountering issues with your fuel injectors. Make sure all your connecters are secure, because that is often cause if codes being thrown. It would be surprising if two or more injectors failed within a short time of each other. Hopefully it’s just a connector. Let us know what you find. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I’m really praying it’s not the ÉCU, whilst I was cleaning up the ski, I used hose (low pressure) to gently clean the hull inside as well. Not sure if that would get into those tight connectors on the ÉCU of the engine or fuse box. I tried to avoid those sensitive areas. But no idea. I’m working on the ski today so we’ll see what I find I’ll report back
@@3ftDeepChannel Another issue I’d love to ask you about is related To steering. Whilst on the lake the other day I noticed the ski wouldn’t go straight when I held the steering forward. It would feel like it was wobbly going left and right as if the steering nozzle in the back or fins on the sides were not tight to the steering. When I jumped in the water (fell) I check to see what was the issue but found everything tight.. is it the steering cable or something?
Check this video out. It may be the source of your problem. th-cam.com/video/83RRB3klqgY/w-d-xo.html. If not, it's likely that you need an adjustment like we do here: th-cam.com/video/H78KrUK2Zg0/w-d-xo.html. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I was able to solve the short issue with the injectors. Not sure how it was able to short but I found some decent corrosion on the connectors and pulled out some decent sized chunks of black contaminants that might have been blocking the injectors. At first try, indeed two were not spraying fuel when starting the seadoo with coils unplugged. I switched the harness connector to check if the issue was from the harness or the injector. Turned out injector didn’t fire again so I knew there was an issue there. I’m working on the steering issue now. Thank you for the videos!
I dont know where i left off. But instead of fighting and leaving ski somwhere again. Etc etc i bought everything tools new carbon seal and changed it it no longrr leaks the issue was the rubber boot was 3/4 inch shorter then new one and didnt put enough pressure on thr seal causing it to sling water dropplets .creating a salty mist inside entire hull. I found it easier to have the tools and do it my self every year when i winterize or when i get ski ready for summer. Pump has to come out anyway. I file down any nicks on impeller lube the shaft clean out salt deposits .any void in the hardware salt builds up fast . The whole shaft gets sanded slightly to remove rust and i grease the whole shaft at least the shaft sits all winter with grease on it instead of rust. Etc etc etc . Always some preventive maninance to do.
Thanks for the update
How often do these fail?
They don’t normally fail catastrophically, but it is a wear item. If you take good care of your machine, it should last at least 200 hours …especially if you have a newer machine with the upgraded design.
Hi 3ftDeep.. you can help me please ? My clip is rusty and impossible to pull back for release the C clip even with the extract tools of shaft 😥.. Have you do a tips please ? Thanks 🙏🏻
Yikes. I know the feeling. Try spraying some penetrating “rust buster” oil and let it sit for a day. If you can get it to the Clip, it’ll help a lot. Keep using the tool so as to not damage your engine or drive shaft while struggling to get it off. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you very much for them tips ;) .. I will test this . Thanks again for your reply ;)
@@3ftDeepChannel it’s good !! 🙂.. I have put some WD40 in front of the clip and behind (I have push the carbon seal on back for put the WD40) .. I have try 15 hours after with the extractor tool and nothing .. The clip it was always blocked … but 24h after it was good !!! thanks 🙏🏻
Great news! Thanks for the update.
Mine sunk in the ocean when the carbon ring and bearings went bad and the impeller ceased in the wear ring
Crikey! That’s terrible. Hopefully you got a new machine.
My jet ski not going over 7mph It sounded like it was slipping little shaking of ski . Could it be the driveshaft ?
What model do you have? The impellers on some of the newer 300 hp machines are known to unscrew.
3ftDeep it’s a 2004 seadoo rxp . Same day that happen my ski had a carbon ring failure as well I think because there was little water in the engine bay. Just not sure why it wouldn’t go over 7mph would still rev and idle fine
2004 rxp 215
Definitely check (pull) your pump!
awesome video now how do i get the
Ball Bearing with Bellow off to replace as well?
Ball bearing? What machine do you have?
@@3ftDeepChannel 2008 ×255
@@3ftDeepChannel oem#420832648.its on the one you are working on .pretty sure on all 4 tecs
Ah, it's just held on with a gear clamp. Follow the service manual instructions carefully though, as that section needs to line up properly with the driveshaft. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel i am going to take s.c off i guess i cannot feel the hose clamp with my hand to take it off.i am replacing it with a new assembly.the driveshaft end cap was diished into an o -ring lol.i think i found my oil leak.when i got done it will be new from the the pto seal to the prop.thanks for the luck!!
I bought the seadoo clamp and bolt style spreader tool (floating ring tool) that the service manual recommended for my 05 rxt so I could get the clip off (the one you show in the video and then don't use, LOL). It's junk, DO NOT BUY and save your $100 unlike me. It's still too wide even when retracted to setup. I ended up with a block of wood and a tire tool as leverage. I will say that the driveshaft holder tool works great though to hold driveshaft after removing jetpump. And like the video says, IT"S CRITICAL that the telltale groove in the driveshaft is not visible once you reinstall driveshaft, or you don't have it in all the way.
Thanks for your comment! The spreader tool works great on some models, but not others. When it works though, it's a lifesaver!
How long did this task really take? I am getting ready to do mine.
I went back and checked our videos and it took us a couple of hours. But you need a special tool to make it go fast. The hardest part of the job is removing the C-clip on the drive shaft. That can take a few minutes with the right tool (and little rust), to an hour or two if you're bootstrapping. The tool costs about $150, though. I'll see if I can post some of those tools on our website at www.3ftDeepSports.com/store. You'll also want to do an engine alignment since you've got the drive shaft out, so that will add an hour or two, depending on what you find. So, I'd set aside at least half a day to do the job, to maybe a full day depending on what you find. Good luck!
Do you live in orlando fl to bring my sea doo to you for you to fix it?
Sorry, no …we’re Canadians!
Hello. Could you help me locate a floating ring tool remover for my 2013 SeaDoo GTI 130. I can't seem to find one online! Thank you.
Check out SBT. We get some of our tools from them. www.shopsbt.com . Good luck.
Thank you! I found the parts. However, I could not locate a driveshaft support for the GTI 130. To your knowledge, is this necessary for this specific jet ski? I appreciate your time.
That's great. You should use one, as you need to keep the weight off the bearing and oil seal on the engine side. If you can't find one, you may be able to get away with propping up the drive shaft with a piece of wood, etc.
How often they go bad
It really depends on how you ride your machine. I can usually go at least 150 hours without an issue, but if you start seeing extra water in the bottom of your hull it needs to be investigated.
How do I know when to replace carbon ring or how often should it be replaced.
2009 RTX si with only 70 hrs poor running could this be the prob.
One of the signs that it needs replacing is finding water in the bottom of the hull after a ride. If you don’t see any, I wouldn’t worry about it, especially with such low hours on your machine. Thanks for your comment.
I have a 2020 with 51 hours. When should I worry about changing this
We change them when we start seeing excessive amounts of water accumulating in the hull after a ride. It should be able to last at least 200 or 300 hours.
@@3ftDeepChannel thx! Love your videos btw
Can a worn out carbon ring create hesitation on takeoff? Like as if it’s bouncing of the rev limiter.
IndepthCarSpecs Could be your wear ring.
Yes, the person below is right. Check your wear.ring clearance with the impeller. It could also be the impeller is worn or damaged. Sorry I didn’t see this comment earlier.
3ftDeep I already changed the wear ring and it still hesitates, like bounces of the rev limiter then it goes perfectly
Did you check your impeller?
3ftDeep yeah, just a super minor scratch
hi could the carbon ring be replaced without the seadoo special tools ? in a hurry to get back on the water and cant get tools out of the states in quick enough ?
Yes, I just did my GTR without the spreader tool. You need 2 people, though. First, you need to stop the drive shaft from sliding backward (sometimes it's possible by leaving the pump on, but we use the tool in the video as this works better). You'll need to put a block of wood against the engine block, and use a crowbar against it to slide the support ring back and expose the C-clip. It's not warranty-approved, though. Good luck.
thanks buddy really helpfull vids . keep it up
Licensa buds2 brp ?
Sorry, we don’t understand your question. Please rephrase.
What would this type of repair cost to have done?
About $100 in parts and $350 to $400 in labor.
3ftDeep Awesome thanks. My 2013 wake pro has been taken on a lot of water but it’s only when the jet ski is running and being driven. Would you say that something along these lines is most likely the probell
Yes, most likely it’s a bad carbon seal. Try running it in the water while docked and look for water coming in through the seal. Good luck!
What is the part number for the updated ring? I have a 2006 gtx 4tec 185
I believe it's this one: 272000177. You should check out Sea-Doo's website parts fiche ... at www.sea-doo.ca/shop/essentials/parts-.html. Good luck.
I meant for the support ring. I see that the seadoo website states the original is unavailable, Im wondering what the larger replacement ring part number is? Thanks!
As our 2004 RXP has a different drive shaft than your model, I'm not sure. You should call your local dealer and ask them what the replacement part number is. They should be able to tell you.
Is this an issue that impacts seadoos moreso?
Eventually the carbon seal will wear on all Sea-Doos, so yes it is an issue that eventually impacts all Sea-Doos.
3ftDeep thanks bud. What do the Yamahas use? I have a vxr and all I see is like a rubber tube.
We are primarily Sea-Doo guys, but it looks like Yamahas use a combination of bearings and seals, instead.
Thanks for your video, it has really helped. One question though the new carbon ring does not fit the driveshaft at all, it is too big. Isn't it supposed to fit flush? I check the part number online and it is the correct number so the only thing I can think of is that this is the wrong shaft for this ski. It is a 2004 Seadoo GTX supercharged.
I’m not exactly sure what you mean by fit flush, but there is a lot of slop between the driveshaft and the carbon ring. The carbon ring will, however, fit flush against the support ring to create a water tight seal. The support ring o-rings should fit snugly around the driveshaft. Hope that helps.
Thanks for that quick response. I found in an article where it said that the carbon ring does not fit tightly around the drive shaft. Seems kind of odd but I understand what you're saying and will reinstall everything tomorrow. My problem was that the ski was taking on water very quickly and I thought it was because the carbon ring didn't fit tight.
It could be, but normally that doesn’t result in a fast leak. Check to make sure all of the exhaust hoses are clamped securely. That’s often the problem with bigger leaks. You may also want to tether it securely to the dock and run it at idle with the seat off to see if you can identify the leak. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Yea, I actually tried to see if water was accumulating while going around in a circle in the no-wake zone. Five minutes later there was 6 inches of water in the hull. Will try the dock idea this Sat, but I know that just sitting in the water didn't seem to show a leak last time.
That really sounds like an exhaust leak. The carbon ring would need to be in extremely poor shape to allow that much water to come in. It could also be pump failure which is releasing the pressure on the drive shaft and allowing water to flow in at the carbon ring. Make sure there is still plenty of pressure on the rubber bellow holding the carbon ring.
How did you ever install that c clip?
...only after retrieving it from the bottom of the hull about half a dozen times!
3ftDeep Lol. Got it just now. Perfect 😊. Will test tomorrow. Any supercharger repair kit you recommend? Oem or aftermarket?
@@Ajdjdncjekskf Stick with OEM. It's under so much strain it's not worth saving a bit of $$ when you consider what an inferior kit could do to the engine. Good luck.
3ftDeep Thanks!
One more question if you don’t mind. One ignition cool feels to be stuck. How to solve? 😮
3ftDeep www.ebay.nl/itm/193252520152 looks tempting...
I have to do this on my 02 GTX.... I’m so screwed..
Make sure you have the proper tools for the job ...and be patient! Give yourself a full day to do the job, and that way you won't rush. Good luck.
3ftDeep thank you. I’ve done just about all the repairs on it. From replacing the wear ring to the rear steering. But this might have me stumped. I might just have to bring it to the mechanic :/
Goo to know how labor take some people
Wants to much money.
It not only saves money to do it yourself, you also become knowledgeable about your machine so you may be able to deal with an emergency if it breaks down while you're in the water.
Or an easier option, buy a Yamaha
I'm not sure that's any easier. We've had 100% engine failure in the SVHO models in our riding group. Cracked cylinder heads ...doesn't instill much confidence in their products and the cost to repair is $$$$$$$$