Installing a 4" sewer cleanout
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ย. 2016
- Installation of an ABS 4" two way cleanout tee in an existing cast iron sewer pipe
NOTE: READ MIKE THOMAS' comment below. - As per Mike Thomas' comment below, the screw cap is inadvisable. It should be replaced with a loose fitting rubber cap instead (in case of sewer backup this cap will pop off and prevent the house filling with sewer water)
Update: Note Richard's comments below (in reply to Mike Thomas' comment) : This idea might be fine in my situation where the clean out is OUTSIDE the house, clearly visible to anyone entering the house. However, you wouldn't want to implement this loose-cap idea if the clean out was in a basement or crawl-space - or indeed any place where a spillage might not be noticed for hours or days. Having poop belching out on to the lawn I can deal with... in a crawl space, not so much:) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Rule of thumb when glueing pipes together, lightly glue the socket end and heavy glue the spigot or pipe end that prevents the glue from the socket end pushing into the fitting and creating a glue lump inside the fitting.
That's a very good tip - thanks!
no, you never put glue on the female, Only primer, thats what its for. the right way to glue a pipe is to leave 1/10 of the diameter of the pipe from the edge with no glue. So 1/8 of an inch basically. then push it together. Or you get the pipe started, then put the glue on, then push. Never in the female.
@@timothywhieldon1971 Interesting, thanks for your tip. Don't recall ever seeing definitive guides on gluing pipes except for mains pressure water supply PVC pipes and for fire sprinkler pipework. For the fire sprinkler pipes they stated that both male and female sections should be glued AND they must be prepared with a couple of layers of glue before joining. I'm not surprised that drainage plumbing is a different technique afterall it's generally not 'at pressure' and the key thing is not creating glue lumps that can snag waste products which could cause blockages. So thanks for your advice, I hope other amateurs like myself read it.
@@mikeatyouttube something you should have learned when either being trained by a professional or a class!
I don’t know about that. Have you done a comparative test using various ways to dab the glue? I assume your talking about ABS. Primer isn’t used on it. There’s a beveled edge in the hub socket. When you insert the spigot, doesn’t the excess glue fill that void. In 43 years I’ve glued a lot of ABS. Never have I seen some lump of glue sitting inside the pipe. I say it doesn’t matter if there’s too much glue. It will be pressed outside the hub and not collect in the hub. Certainly this characteristic is deliberate by the manufacturer. Be more concerned with the grade of the pipe. One quarter inch per foot... no less, no more. Too steep of a fall and the water goes down the center of the pipe and leaves solids behind. At one quarter inch fall the water rises up the walls from side to side as it flows down. This keeps it washed out. Larger offsets should be done with sixteen or eighth bends. And don’t put a knock out plug in the line so you can put a water test on it. Even if you knock it out, it does leave a dam in the socket
This is how it is done, Ladies and Gentlemen. No fast-talking "TH-cam Plumbers" with shinny shoes and clean hands, who pretend to be plumbers and who do it for clicks, only. This is a good, honest, hands-on work !
Well, thanks man! I appreciate that.
Pretend to be plumbers? I don't follow. If they do the job right then where's the hate coming from? I know plenty of people who stay clean during this exact job and talk the whole way though it.
@@disquiet3163 Yep, pretend to be plumbers. That's exactly what I said, and what I have meant. No "hate", just simple truth. I have seen and met thousands and thousands of plumbers being in the field over the last 45 years. Plumbing work is a dirty, heavy, unglamorous work. Plumbers have high end tools to make their work happen , however, their expensive tools look like 10 years old the very first day they buy them. Why ? Because they use them ! Plumber's hands are dirty, with scars from injuries they sustained doing their work. There are no plumbers with sparkly clean shirts, shinny boots, and lady-like groomed hands. Nope, real plumbers "don't stay clean." One look at TH-cam pl;umber and I know instantly if he is a wanna-be plumber, or real plumber. Hope that explains. Thank you
@@elmono3939 believe me I understand, I'm a plumber myself and have worked with many plumbers and I see both sides of it. The ones with shiny boots are the ones with hard working apprentices lmao. I've also seen many minding their space and surroundings so as not to get dirty and look like a pigstye for the next call. I've seen and heard things about staying clean but I myself come home every day with a brown shirt, NOT, not a white shirt like I left the house with lol
Ladies and Gentlemen, I ain't no plumber but I is gonna put a new vertical clean out tmorra'. on me exterior line. And ize gonna put two pipes up so's Ize got control over which way the snake goes. me tink dat best! me mark.
Really well done, I loved that you used regular tools, good planning and obviously experience to get the job done!
SC taking a break from lawn care to learn on some plumbing? 😉😊
This is why you always treat your plumber with kindness and respect. The work they do is grueling and they deserve the money they make (along with a nice tip)!!
I rather do the grueling job myself and keep the $ in my pocket. One year ago 10 meters of sewer pipe from my toilet had to be rerouted through the garden. The pro guy estimated it to be a many thousands of $ job. I DIY’ed it for 120$ and elbow grease… In most cases getting a pro involved results in becoming ripped off, not only with sewers but just anything in life. If you bring your car to the garage for a failed emissions test then they fix 800$ in stuff while only a 12$ pcv valve had to be swapped out, and as a bonus they break something small on purpose so you’ll be back at them a few months later.
@@Engineer9736 it’s not getting ripped off lol your one of those guys huh? Let me guess you think farmers should give away free food also?
@@Engineer9736 don’t worry you and every other DIY guys will be calling in a pro to redo the work you spent 3 weeks on because you fucked it up lmao
Thanks for the video as it provided a point of reference for my own sewer clean out access project on a century old home I purchased a few years back. Because I have a septic tank really close to the house and no clean out port was ever installed, I was forced to dig a hole in the basement floor and replicate the work you've done here. In truth, my project was a little messier and stinkier than yours but I saved a ton of money and now sit on the throne with just a little more satisfaction :)
Professional plumber, here. Good fucking job, man. This may be a small job, but small jobs like this reveal how good someone is at their job. Keep up the beautiful work.
Most excellent job. I like the mirror with the lights! I will put it on the tool Christmas list!! Also like the zip ties tip. Thanks for posting this video
Thanks for the comment. Yes, those inspection mirrors with LED lights are awesome!
Your use of PPE is impeccable
😂 why u so bothered? It's his own shit anyway so 🤷🏿♂️
Great lesson!! Always a good idea to install cleanouts, it saves cash.instead of camera snaking for a problem.
Very Nice Step by step process. I need to do just this, since last time I had to remove a toilet to properly snake the street side of my drain. Thank you!
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
I just learned some answers to the questions I submitted by combing through the comments. Thanks again for the video!
Good idea with the zip tie's, simple but effective, i'll have to remember that one, thanks for the video 👍.
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic work , very professional
This is an excellent idea for having your own personal RV dump station!👍
Most detailed and comprehensive video I've come across. Thank you very much
Well, thank you. Much appreciated. I looked at other videos to try to learn what to do before doing this job and got most information from the comments from (presumably) knowledgeable people explaining what the people were doing wrong in that video. I realize my job was pretty simple but I feel a whole lot more confident that if my line backs up it wont cost me a fortune in an emergency pipe refit (because that's what they do here - just insist on grinding out the old pipes and then installing cleanouts). At least now I'll have the option of rooting out the line without crawling under the house to find the only other cleanout. I'll get a camera down there at some point and see how clean (or otherwise) the pipes are.
Robert Fleming h6
Great job there.im doing the same to my house right now.
ferncos save the day!
Thanks for a great video
Thank th-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much. Had kitchen sink clogging frequently for years and bcse of the tight space had limited solutions. But your video is THE solution. Thanks.
Fantastic! I hope your project went well (or will go well). I hoped to prove that most of plumbing is not rocket science :) If you read the comments below, you'll see I defended my use of the T section - because my pipe was not deep at all. The alternative is a Y (or two Ys if you need to go in both directions) - and you need to use that (a Y) if your pipe is quite deep - simply because the rooter guy needs to be able to guide the rooting cable and the deeper it is, the harder that task is.
Perfect fit. I am sure he would make a good pipe cut but he still added tape/wire tie guide - a craftsman seeking perfection.
What an awesome plumber.. that sewer clean out is a great idea.
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Forget about the critics on here , it's your house and you can do what you like , for the record I think you did a pretty good job.......👍
yensabi Thanks, I appreciate your comment. Helpful and informative comments are appreciated also, especially if other amateur DIYers are motivated to do a similar job.
mostly correct. your work still needs to pass local inspection.
I agree 100% ,,,,,,
Very respectable presentation, very professional !!!
Excellent video, just what I was looking for!
This is exactly what I need to do at my house. I’m going to try your methods. Thanks.
I do this at least once per week haha. Looks good, great install!
Excellent job super neat work👍
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Good job and great vid. I just had to cut a clean out at my house and man was it a pain in the neck using the saw. I had to resort to using my angle grinder and it cut it like butter, but got a little difficult once I got towards the wall.
Congrats on doing the job. I think I was lucky with the cutting of the pipe. An angle grinder is definitely a good option. Most pros have these chain-style pipe cutters which are expensive but then they probably use them every day.
I had to redo my sewer line a few years back and I didn’t use that much pipe. I just butted the t pipe to the metal pipe , sealed it up and added the rubber boots plus I used a round cap for easier access and the flea out is 8 inches over the ground Another added security measure is use flex seal on the pipes and wait 12-24 hours before burying it in sand and u will see the difference
What impressed me the most is how the hole in the ground remained clean. If I was doing that job the hole would have almost completely caved in by the time I finished the job.
I wish I had his dirt, or any dirt really. Digging down in clay soil is a bitch!
Always interesting to see how things are done in different locales. I haven't seen anybody cut cast iron pipe with a reciprocating saw. Most use a chain cutter. Around here, cast iron hasn't been used since the 1960s. PVC is used as ABS is considered too fragile. Sewer pipe would be at least 4 feet deep and more likely 8 to 10 feet deep.
Interesting. PVC is frowned upon here in Santa Clara for drainage. You can use it in the house but not outside. Don't exactly know why but abs is tolerant of sunlight, which we get a lot of, and maybe and survives earthquakes better? That being said, water supplies to homes is now 2" PVC so who knows? There's probably an abs lobby group somewhere in the permitting system.
I would have used a chain cutter but I will do this job probably just once where I can get the cutter in. I did, previously, have to cut a 4" cast iron pipe in the very tight crawl space. There wasn't enough room to get any cutter in so I thought I'd try the reciprocating saw - and it worked fine - 2 mins or so to cut verses at least an hour to drive somewhere to rent a chain cutter? I think it's good to show other dIYers that common tools can be used. But I've got quite a bit of stick especially using the cable ties as a guide:-)
@@mikeatyouttube I’m from Santa Clara county and yes I can confirm pvc is frowned upon . I never heard of chain cutters . And the way to go with a sawzaw
I just did it the exact same way yesterday. Tomorrow I get to snake the damn pipes. Thumbs up to you
...and save yourself a load of money! Well done to you...
Nice job, only comment, add a twist when joining the glue joint, hold for five seconds? Helps to stop the backing out.... great job, well planned give yourself an "A"
Great video. I want to do this myself and you make it seem so simple. Great job!! Thank you
Go for it!... have a read of some of the other comments here. There are some good points made and I have since modified the riser to a) be longer and therefore level with the grade and b) have a rubber cap on top (rather than the screw top) so that if there is a backup then the mess is made outside the house rather than inside.
Also check the comments about options if the sewer line is deep... the Tee I used might not be suitable if the pipe is really deep.
Good luck!
@@mikeatyouttube awesome Mike!. In my case Im trying to accomplish this in my basement to help keep water out in case of a surge during a storm. I have a sum pump next to where I want to install the check valve they way I figure if worst comes to worst the pump would take care of any back flow through the clean out with the rubber cap. I’m interested in hearing your input. Thanks again.
@@brunonaranjo6985 Hi Bruno, your situation is a bit out of my level of experience. What I'd suggest is to get advice from the plumbers merchant you get the parts from. When I did my project, the local merchant was happy to give me advice for the price of the part I bought. A diagram of your proposed layout (and a photo or two) would probably help.
Very nice job. Thanks so much for sharing.
Really good job buddy chingon viejo very clean.👍👍👍👍
nevermind the armchair plumbers you did a fine job. I can say that after working for a plumber (19 years now) who only does repairs on underground plumbing. Those are called mission couplings the stainless band's around them make them quite expensive
bulbchangingmonkey These other idiots don't even know what they are called or how to use them
I was wondering how long they would last being underground.
Nicholas Tedeschi where im from Theyre called ferncos
@@joshforcha668 actually furncos and mission couplings aren't the same thing.
@@joshforcha668 the part he used to make the repair is most definitely a mission coupling. It has 4 clamps on it and a center band. A furnco has 2 bands on it! Look it up before trying to correct someone that actually knows what he is talking about. Have a great day
ok, very good, many thanks from spain.
Excellent work , well done , half the builders these days would have cojd it and covered it all up , 👍
Good job Mike!!!
NIce job. thanks for the video.
use a grinding wheel to cut mostly around pipe then use the sawzall to cut the bottom side.
Great Job and thank you for sharing, keep safe
holy shot just learned something the cable ties were a great idea
Thanksth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Cable ties were a dumb rookie idea...just mark it and cut it
@@331whf9 bruh just let him have his way. You replied a year after his comment anyhow
@@matthewmattson6881 and yet uve taken to time to respond to me?? But yeh..he can have his way...no one is debating that...comments are for others who wana learn the right way after watching hacks here on TH-cam bro
@@331whf9 yeah cuz I saw you leave that L of a comment lmao
From my experience w cast is that the reason it was leaking from the bottom side is not because you may have probably hit it but the simple fact that it's where the water runs and over time it becomes wore and brittle. So if you're gonna go through all that work it's best to replace all of the line because I'm sure the rest is in similar shape..for future note that cast will hairline crack.
Great job Mike
Easy to understand video, thank you . After having my main drain cleared a clean-out was suggested. I wanted to see how it's done, and this video was self-explanatory, thank you.
My question now is what is the benefit of a clean-out?❤
Nicely done!
it's a trip watching someone else do it.
Ok thanksth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Great video... straight to the repair no yakked yak
Hello. Thanks for the fantastic video!
Would you answer the following questions:
What reciprocating saw blade did you use?
Is that a mitre saw you used to cut the pipe?
Why did you cut the pipe for the T top and connecting pipe "15" below grade"?
Why didn't you place the clean out above ground level for easy access?
What is a loose fitting rubber cap? Do I just go to the plumbing department at Home Depot and ask for a "loose fitting rubber cap?
I have always primed and glued both male and female ends of pvc pipes. What do you suggest is best? Only priming and gluing the male end?
Would really appreciate answers to my questions if you have the time. Thanks again!
RESPECT TO the plumbers out there. had work but we still get the work done
nice work man.
Very nice job!
great video which helped me figure out what to do. thank you
The heel of a reciprocating saw should always be held tightly against the work-piece. It won't kick at you.
and you know that
Its called a shoe or a table , not the heel. If your going to give advice at least know what you are talking about.
Good job. I would only mention that an angled clean-out might be better for inserting/using the snake in there... if you can fit one.
My country's sewerage works authority could learn something from this video
Well I’ll be a summbitch! Great job!
great job! ignore the haters, one thing is for sure, it's going to work!!
ec5vf
wesdcvvgghkjggcsedddffvgbggggvvvvvggggggggggggggv bbbbbvvxzSe222222
223r333
Nice clean work
I’m SHOCKED by some comments. Anything can be nit picked.
This would be approved by any inspection.
I know people who left the hub and didn’t cut it out. Or used ferncos.
Although I’m not a fan of ABS. I wouldn’t have a issue with such a small area.
Over 30yrs exp I think the job was done great.
And to say and the glue. Lightly glue fitting then pipe to avoid build up of glue?? Really the build up is nothing compared to the build up in the rest of the pipe.
Job well done.
this WOULD NOT BE UP TO CODE! you cannot go from "A" to "B" to "A" … cast iron to abs to cast iron...
I stuck an abs combie on a clay line and got called for it. I put a clay com,bie in the second time and felt that it was a much cleaner job , so I appreciated the lesson. the bands had reducing doughnuts in then to go from big od clay to smaller od ABS. so I took out the doughnuts and was good to go.
now you know!
… cant edit
"a to b to a" was the inspectors words.... not hating!!!
he said you could go from a to b to c
say clay to cast iron to copper
again I feel its way cleaned to stay the same , so I agree with the code , the inspector and the concept … im glad I had a good inspector ,I glad I got called , im glad I fixed it …. to bad inspectors suck now a days…
I always strive to be the best and this is one way to be better, you can do as you please... im sure the system worked fine … if I wanted to be mediocre id play guitar.
Da Kid
It is to code pending where you live.
That’s how I should have said my comment.
Several places call out for no hubs. No ferncos are allowed.
Some you have to be x amount away from any bell.
Etc.
I have done a lot of plumbing in 30 years considering that’s what I do. and I have never got called on ABS on a clay pipe.
In several states not one call out.
Now you will from times have a inspection and the inspector will say I want this not that.
That’s different.
I had 1 tell me to run a 4 inch pipe through the corner of a house right threw the block.
I had a failed inspection because he didn’t like pex pipe.
Last one failed due to no expansion tanks. A new code said after this date you need them. I did the job 11 months prior and got called.
I don’t know anyone who would say reinstall clay pipe.
It’s crap pipe and to many mechanical fittings that can fail or let roots etc
Maybe the guy that did inspection didn’t like you who knows
Da Kid
What state do you live in??
I just spoke with city lead inspector
( neighbor) just because I knew he would get a kick outta it.
And ya you can use clay pipe if you want to that’s a no brainer but if your replacement is 5-10 ft or whatever abs/pvc is 100% ok to use
With no hubs.
There’s several reasons why it’s better and no need to go into why.
Every state I have worked in and have done these have never failed.
And off top of my head that’s 6 states.
I’m just curious what state you are in.
Some people think if it’s clay you must stay with clay.
Hell some think SDR35 is a good sewer pipe ( that’s just dumb )
No certain times you don’t switch pipe.
You can’t go from steel pipe right to copper. Etc
mike , I cant figure out how to answer you...
my point is it should of been a cast iron fitting... so it was all cast iron , not cast iron than abs than cast iron… the clay is an example of my experience... ask your neighbor what he thinks of that. (staying all cast iron ) ive plumbed in Alaska California florida aruba Africa and the UK... where ever id still try to keep continuity if possible.
When you're gluing, use both hands on OPPOSITE sides of the pipe you are inserting. Give a mini twist and pull it in HARD! That glue begins drying immediately.
Nice work...thank you
Excellent. The reciprocating saw can cut out the big roots as you dig as well. Only other thing I would add is to use temporary caps while working above the open sewer lines (wearing a mask doesn't hurt, or help, but can interfere with your mental state ;-). I try to limit my breathing of dangerous unknown gases. Thx.
End of line clean outs are clutch for this, you can snake the whole main and if the it doesn’t unclog you know to immediately snake from whatever fixture is clogged.
Well that's certainly true! It's a shame when they built these houses in the late 1950's that they didn't spend another $1.50 and extend the line out the back of the house and put a clean out there. As it is there IS a clean out at the end of the line but it is only accessible via the very tight crawl space (or from the vent pipe down). I figured I'd never get a rooter crew to crawl under the house and no rooter people go on the roof any more. So this was my best bet at having a simple rooting job rather than a multi-thousand dollar emergency repair.
When your line backs up you should have a loose fitting cap. The need to release the pressure before it floods your bathroom. Good video from Sacramento
Yes, indeed. I have put a rubber cap on the riser instead as others suggested. Good idea. Better to have all the mess outside in a back-up emergency than inside or under the house.
Ligle rapitat?
I do this shit for a living in Ojai, California, USA! I love seeing other countries do it. We are unsung hero’s. Our codes don’t allow for those 2-way “cleanouts “, for some reason. So if needed (2-way access for rooting/unclogging) we build “bullhorns”: 2 opposing Y’s about a foot apart. Anyway, iron pipes suck! Fortunately, we deal with sewers OUTSIDE of houses. Cast iron pipes here end as sewer lateral exits the house. Since many houses here are old, that means clay pipe. We don’t use ABS outside the house. We use a PVC called SDR (Sewer, Drain, ?). Anyway, thank you.
Thanks for the comment. Good to hear from the pros. Hopefully others will read your comment. Although my accent is British, this house is in Santa Clara, CA. I'm sure you know that codes vary between cities and, at least when I did this job, ABS schedule 40 was code here and also, because this clean out was so close to grade it was fine. That's what the pros in the plumbing store told me (and ensured I bought the most expensive ferncos available!). I totally understand that at any depth, using these clean-out Tees would be ill advised. When I do the road end of the pipe I will certainly be putting in the Y fittings because there the depth will be 4-5feet. At the house end the depth is less than 15 inches and a rooter guy would have zero trouble seeing which way his snake is going. Others mentioned the potential problems with these clean-out Tees and I can see why - they're trying to stop amateurs like me making mistakes.
One day I'll get the iron pipe completely out of there and replace with whatever is code. I did some research and discovered that SDR simply stands for Standard Dimension Ratio. But it seems to mostly refer to PVC (poly vinyl chloride) pipe. Where as ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is measured in 'Schedule' numbers. Even more confusing is that with SDR pipe, as the number goes UP the thickness of the wall goes down and with ABS pipe as the schedule number goes UP the thickness of the pipe wall goes UP also. Schedule 80 is thicker walled than Schedule 40 but SDR 11 is thicker than SDR 35.
I was checking out a new build in San Jose and I noticed that for buildings 3 stories and above, the builder had to used iron pipe for vertical falls (drainage) and very expensive 1 1/2" copper for venting. Where as in 2 story houses all the drainage was ABS. I believe ABS has better sunlight resilience (than PVC) and therefore can be used for venting out of the roof. Of course, drainage piping is not under pressure whereas water supply is. In Santa Clara PVC (or copper) is required for city pressure water supply and that may or may not be specified in SDR numbers (however in the hardware store the white PVC pipe is still specified in 'schedule' numbers - usually 40).
I've picked up loads of tips from professional plumbers after I posted this video. I hope other people learn from you too
mikeatyouttube whoa dude! Good on you mate! You know more than I. I know when doing sewer laterals (from house to sewer) it’s always SDR. I was told it meant “Sewer, Drain, (and something other)”. I never researched it, ya Limey Bawsted! Lol. I still MAY be correct, but you are correct about gauges, etc. I don’t know why ABS is used under house, SDR (pvc) outside the house. I know I’d rather work with SDR (I called it PVC when 1st started this job, and was told IT’S SDR!. Regardless, awesome what you are doing. But use “strong backs” when connecting these cleanouts or new lengths of pipe! Thank you sir, and keep doing what you’re doing! If I can help, let me know! The news/tv has become worthless to me!
You probably didnt know this so this is for everyone else considering the same thing or similar, it is not meant in a derogatory manner.
Eventually, it's going to leak, because you removed the soil from under the pipe, never excavate lower than you pipe, if you need a " sump hole " for a pump, make it at least 1 foot away from the pipe. It is almost impossible to get really good compaction under a pipe for obvious reason's, eventually the water will wash it down and compact it under your connection, which will make it sag and possibly break. Covering your connections with cement or grout will make them a bit more durable.
Most guys I know who do water mains etc... get really pissy if you go below the original grade, most prefer to lay new pipe in outline of old pipe without disturbing it.
30 years of heavy equipment, I've put a few pipes in the ground over the years, some big enough I could drive my backhoe through them :) but they never let me :(
Thank you for you excellent comment. With all the other helpful comments (like getting a better fit for the rubber fittings and not using a screwcap (use a non-clamped rubber cap - so that a backup floods the garden, not the house) - I feel like I should make a second video and do it all again!
Your points are well taken and I hope other amateurs doing a similar job will read your comments. Unfortunately, youtube wont allow annotations on the video any more so I can't direct people to the right comment as they watch the video :(
In my case I might be alright because A) this area is under cover and gets no rain and B) never has any machinery or people walking over it. Fingers crossed!
Great Job! My brother paid about $2000 to have the same thing done. The only difference was the pipe was not cast iron, but clay. They had to use a 4" grinder to cut it.
Wow, two grand! With that sort of price they would be able to afford some fancy tools:-)
@@mikeatyouttube I thought that it was way too much. They had the plumber dig up the pipe, and it was buried deep enough that I thought that if they went any deeper, we would have heard Chinese being spoken. The plumbers really try to upsell. Maybe saving up for a new Mercedes van to replace the 10 year old Chevrolet he was driving.
@@mikeatyouttube LOL!
Other than when a "test' is required,...we have always made sure there is a wye rather than a 2 way. But I guess if you are snaking it in ten years, and have a short enough length to your plug that you can actually direct which direction you want your snake to go...it's a good idea. Around here it would be at least 4 to 6 feet to get down to your lateral run.
I was thinking the same. With a wye piece it would have been a lot easier to get a snake in
Nice job man
Nice...thanks for sharing.
By now someone must have explained to you, that your digging did not crack the original pipe. That is what happens when cast iron ages. During war when cast pipe was made it was made thinner in the USA. In many cases in service lines they used a bituminized fiber composite pipe known as "orangeburg" for the New York city that manufactured it from 1945 to 1971. It took that long to realize that it collapsed on itself. I remember piping double cleanouts in a suburb of Colorado Springs CO. where they insisted all serve pipe be clay tile. The joints were suppose to be held together with a rubber o ring but we always used mortar as well. Clay pipe of course allows roots to enter freely, thus the need for double cleanouts.
Nice job
Congrats my frien my name is manuel am i in north easth of mexico i usto doing many times this type of repair at plumbing companies in atlanta ga rooter plus mk plumbing hulsey plumbing many keep doing well
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Very Nice
Mike I talked to you before here about the same thing you are doing except my pipe is in the basement from the ceiling to the floor. I was told a Carbide blade would work with my Sawzall. Said on the package of the blade for Cast iron too. It did not work at all. I ended up using my Angle grinder with thin cutting disks for metal, much faster speed with this. Got the pipe cut out and replaced with PVC cleanout and pipe. The store did not have ABS. But they said it did not matter in my case, pvc or abs. Got it all done and I had to use a Paste for the clean-out plug when screwed in. I was wearing a paper mask because of the dust when cutting but I think it still got in my lungs a little. Was blowing my nose at night and there were a little bit of black stuff coming out. You think this was dangerous for my lungs just doing this one time? Thank God I don't do this for a living! Also before I call the Plumber back to snake the blockage, I am trying first a Root Killer, then I have to wait 5-7 days after that then use a Main Line cleaner to eat bacteria. The company told me this when I called them. Roebic brand. Not sure if I have Roots, but wanted to do this anyway first before the cleaner. Any thoughts on all this? Sorry it was long!
I very much doubt you've done your lungs any damage. As for the actual rooting, I'm certainly not an expert. I've done it once and the blockage was trivial.
Of course the best way to find out what's going on is to send down a camera. There are some cheap ones available on Ebay. I got one but it was basically useless. You 'might' be able to rent one for the day. Good luck with the rooting job!
Wow 😮.. thanks for the video!!!
Nice sewer work Old timer.
looks very good and all. If it is affordable, i might recommend a heavier grade tee and fittings. While the job might be technically okay using the DWV pipe and fittings. The clean out is meant to be a location of service. So you might want to build it in a way the it can withstand abuse and use. Suppose the clean-out got jammed and you needed to use a wrench to remove it. The Cap flange and the cap are heavy grade material and they will withstand the abuse, but that tee is never going to like being tampered with(Ramming snakes and augers down into it).
I thought he did an alright job for a homeowner. He didn’t have a van full of tools, fittings/parts. We plumbers have seen people do allot worse. You know those jobs you sometimes get with jury rigged homeowner repairs. Your right though, I would have replaced all of that with cast iron.
Wow, just wow! That is not a light weight tee. In fact, it was designed exclusively for the purpose he used it for. It’s a two way sanitary clean out. Probably schedule 40 too.
@@ralfie8801 is that good or bad?
James Duff
Its good, the first guy was going on about the light weight tee he used, but the piece he used is plenty heavy and was designed for the purpose he used it for.
@@ralfie8801 Thanks for your input and clarification Ralfie.. much appreciated.
what a pallaver ive never seen a joint take so long especially when it is not the correct grade of pipe for undersoil?
you dont have to dig under the whole pipe, just where you plan to cut, the pipe will be supported when cutting and it saves time and labor.
Good point - thanks!
Then get the pipe full of dirt?
I'm a landscape contractor and in our repair jobs. Best to dig around just like him. Clean job, happy clients
jo jo I disagree you want to remove the dirt cause I’ve time it undermines you want to back fill with stone 18 ins or so top off with soil and use a tamper for best results and longest lasting repair.
One of these days, people who use sawzalls will learn the proper way to use them. The shoe on the saw end of the tool is there fore a purpose. That shoe is to be held firmly against the surface being cut . Just like a saber saw base plate. The way the full force of the saw's reciprocating action is applied to the blade and you do not shake the saw or your wrist all over the place.. The cut will be MUCH faster and clean.
Generally agree. I'm not sure why the shoe is A) not easily adjustable (allen wrench required) and B) so short. When cutting metal it's important to keep the blade cool otherwise it gets blunt. That's why I try to cut slowly (with varying degrees of success). Also, by moving the blade I'm hoping that different cutting teeth get used rather than just the ones near the shoe. It's probably a ridiculous idea but habits die hard! Thanks for pointing out the correct way to use the saw for other diyers.
@@mikeatyouttube Definitely agree about slower speed and rotating the saw around the pipe to allow the blade to stay a little cooler a spray with WD 40 will also help and it will also help prevent rust on the blade as the paint on the blade is worn away.
The other reason to keep the shoe always FIRMLY against the material being cut as it will prevent the blade frpom getting bent or even snapping if you slightly shift the angle at which you are holding the saw and if that happens, the blade could catch in the kerf . Not good for the blade, the material being cut or you as the operator.
those are good saz-all blades, I use a thin cut abrasive grinder and wheel, thin cut wheels cost 99 cents =1 wheel makes 2 good cuts !
Danny : I thought of using the cut-off grinder wheels however I'd have to get the (4.5") grinder all the way round the pipe to finish the cut and that would mean digging out more soil. I already got called out on digging *any* dirt out from under the pipe - Larry MacD below makes the point that by digging out the dirt I'm probably dooming myself to an eventual leak. (Less support under the replacement pipe - makes sense I guess).
But you're right - those thin cut wheels are awesome, and, as you say, cheaper than sawzall blades.
Well done!
Great job dear
Great job. The only thing is, the way I was taught was the cap on the clean out should be fitted loosely. That way the next back up will come out the cleanout in the yard and not in the house making a mess in the tub and shower. I would rather have it stink up outside the house and not inside. On the 4 inch pipe coming out of the ground just set a rubber cap on top and don't tighten the hose clamp, in fact take off the hose clamp so nobody tightens it.
Thanks, Charles. I hope people read your comment. In fact this was mentioned before and I modified the cap to exactly what you suggested. Now, as you say, if there's a backup, my yard will get a bit of extra fertilizer rather than a horrible mess inside.
Shielded fernco towards the house, nice
Are you going to wrap the joins with denzil tape to hold the rust back
I'm glad nobody use the toilet taking a big dump while you were doing that!
Indeed. I didn't show the section where I duct-taped the toilet seats down:-)
gracias por sus conocimientos
most states it's against UPC to use ABS underground, only as a stub out of the house then it has to transfer to SDR-35 or SCH 40 depending on depth.
Thanks for the tip. Plumbing codes vary so make sure you're code compliant. ABS is OK for me - I asked the supplier - and I've seen the pros here install new lines with ABS. I couldn't even have bought a schedule 40 bidirectional clean out tee. I've only seen PVC used for underground supply (and sprinklers, of course). Nevertheless, different municipalities, different codes, so check first!
That's not true! Where'd you hear that? Schedule 40 is a wall thickness, not a material. Sewer mains and laterals are often sdr-35. UPC is theUniform Plumbing Code. Show this master plumber with 41 years in the trade, where it says that ABS or PVC may not be used for underground installation. I'll concede that it may be that certain municipalities do not allow those , but i've never seen that restriction or worked in one
You must be in California. We're one of the few States where ABS is still used. Most use PVC DWV. PVC drain, waste and vent doesn't distort as much as ABS. However, PVC when burned releases Chlorine gas. Ouch!
Oh? Robert Terry said "most states it's against UPC to use ABS underground" I said "That's not true" I don't know about PVC. Here in California, ABS is the standard, but I don't believe there's code restrictions on PVC DWV in the UPC or IAPMO. I'm a plumber. Not an underground utility worker. I tie into whatever the laterals are. There're many comments that are factually untrue and/or unsanitary. Like" use a neoprene cap w/o the S.S. band instead of a threaded plug on a clean out"! Why? Apparently, it's bad if the fixtures show a stoppage. Better to have a cap blow off and spew shit all over the ground than for a toilet to show signs of a problem.
Ill drop in my 2 since, since I have learned 2 plumbing codes, City of Chicago and IL State, everywhere in the state you can use schedule 40. otherwise in the city you can NOT use plastic underground or in building everything is still being installed as Vic, copper, cast iron and galvinaized steel for our vents ties except for Drain title. Otherwise all cast iron and truthfully I have one of our suppliers not far away from where I live I would of just gotten a single two way clean out and installed it at the hub since it was disturbed.
Everyone’s a plumber here lol. Love it.
No kidding! 1.3 million of them. I thought it would be fun to video and edit together this simple clean out job but I had no idea how popular plumbing videos were. I picked up some tips from the pros in the comments for next time and I hope other amateurs like me learn a bit too. I really have doubts that your average home owner or even a DIYer will tackle a job like this so I don't think I'm losing a professional a project - in fact, probably the opposite. When I did this job, there were no other people in the house so if I screwed up and I had no sewer for a while then McDonalds wasn't too far away for "life's essentials". Don't think that would cut it if there had been a wife involved:) All the best in Canada and stay safe at this 'interesting' time.
In my country we use y connecter pipe 45° but you are using 90° clean out thank you
Don't put dirt in hole cut plastic drum with inspection cover,notch around 4 inch pipes ,great job
Thanks sirth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
That deep you should've put back to back wyes.When the sewer stops up it's sometimes hard to start your cable going the right direction in a deep 2 way cleanout but good job anyway.
Not to code to use a two way with a riser for exactly the reason you said. Back to back combinations. Not wyes. Yes? :>)
Face to face or you get a dead space (we call it a California c.o.). I agree though. But check this out, I did the face to face combos for the reason of depth and it being hard to control the direction of cable when actually using the fitting and the city inspector failed it because the combo going back to the house was "backwards". Can you believe that? There are times when common sense should trump the code but it doesn't. So I had to cut it out and use one of these "turpin" tees (2-way c.o.) like in the video. Now the customer has inferior set up.
With a right angle T like that, how do you ascertain that future snake, runs in which direction? And wouldn't it be better to use two 45s, one toward each direction for proper cleaning, if that becomes ever needed? Also, we are told to fill the under pipe area with larger pebbles and gravels, with the depth according to the applicable code.
Two good points. On the first - should I have used two 45s - : in my case the pipe is only about 15 inches below grade. A rooter person would have no trouble seeing and guiding the cable the way he wants. Agreed that if it was deeper, then two 45s would be better. Failing to put gravel/stones/something more solid under the pipes before filling in - yes - quite right I should have done that. Hopefully other DIYers will read your comment and not make the same mistake. Unfortunately youtube does not allow me to add labels and comments on the video itself.
how much would be the going rate for this job? plus running the pipe form the house from a garage... asking for a friend lol.
As you say, lol! There are a couple of comments below regarding cost but a friend of mine had a blockage without having a clean out like this and his bill which included about 25feet of replacement pipe and a clean-out was $6000. It was, of course, an 'emergency' and the company took full advantage:-) This is the reason I did this job- I have renters and can't exactly tell them to go poop at McDonald's while I go through the same process as my friend. At some point I'll replace the steel pipe itself with abs but for the time being, having a place for the rooter guys to do their job will save me a lot of money.
2:15 look at the bottoms left corner... gotcha
😳😩🤣👌🏽👈🏽 oldest trick in the book ...."well Played sir, well Played"
HAHA
dammit :)
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Keep waching full videoth-cam.com/video/C_vGvUqR870/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I'm trying to repair mine. What do you call the end socket with the metal bands.
The bands , are mission bands, and or you can also get fernco's here in the states. Just make sure you torque them to spec.
Those are brands you’re referring to... it’s called all rubber couplings
@@nolantanaka565 They are not rubber. They are plasticized pvc.
Earth Quake proof Sewer lines is an interesting concept but I believe can be done.I have been doing this since 1994 Full time in my own business.And for the comment on the Cast Iron looking different that was a brand of Cast Iron that was not Charlotte it is probably an import and probably why it cracked,