With the timing chain issue, mine went one week after I bought mine. I had 98k miles, and there's actually another extended warranty for 10 years or 100k miles and I got it fixed for free. So, if it happens to you take it to a vw dealership and you'll get a free $1,200-1,800 repair. I'm just glad mine went while I still had under 100k.
@@stepsidelandscapinglawnsol3093 when I got mine fixed I had an intake as well, but hadn't tuned it yet. I don't know if having a tune would void the extended warranty, but if not make sure they know you have a tune so they don't overwrite anything lol
Bought a DSG 2011 GTI last year, drove it for a year and decided it was a keeper for a few more years. I cleaned the intake (wasn't that bad tbh but just for peace of mind) with oven cleaner and the zip-tie method, saved me 850,- euro's by doing it myself. Then I got it tuned together with a DSG tune, that totally transformed the car! It's so fast and responsive now, but I lost the "farts" on upshifts because the DSG is shifting much faster now. Recently I had to replace a driveshaft (easy job) and changed the auxiliary belt and tensioner (pain in the ass because you have to loosen an engine mount to get the tensioner out) together with the PCV valve (also for peace of mind). Sadly the paint has a few scratches and the front bumper could use a respray because of rockchips. But the interior and mechanical parts are all in very good condition and I love to drive the car! (my other daily is a BMW 5 series so I set the bar pretty high for cars!)
My 2017 GTI has had an oil leak from filter housing (warranty), a coolant leak at the thermostat (warranty) and another small oil leak at the oil sending unit. This is quite on par with its reputation. Oh, 25K miles.
Gotta say out of all of the cars and trucks I've driven at my job, two of my favorites were a 2014 GTI and a 2017 Golf R. They rip, super fun and easy to drive, and they're affordable to buy. However, both of these cars had to be bought back by my dealership from the customers due to electronic issues, then sent to auction. The GTI had a reoccurring CEL and even the VW dealership we kept bringing it to couldn't get it sorted 😞
Anecdotal evidence, there's gonna be people who have issues and people who have no issues. The question is whether the experience that the car provides is worth the potential hassle.
275K miles 31.6 MPG /420 Miles per tank. Change oil every 5K miles. Clean Carbon at 60K mile intervals (When you disassemble to change water pump / time chain / belt (FSI / TSI). It will last forever.
@@justincace5517exactly . My tfsi motor strong with 220k and will gap cars still lol and I out bolt on models charge pipes light weight flywheel and gfb+ dv
I own a two door mk6 gti autobahn and I’ve never had the frame flexing issue. Also I’m used to working on tfsi engines so the tsi engine is basically heaven when it comes to maintenance because it doesn’t eat itself if you don’t replace random parts every thousand miles. I’ve managed to keep a tfsi running for 200k miles and I plan on keeping my tsi running for 250k miles.
Just tuned my mk6 gti and it's so much better, and I just want to drive all the time. The biggest annoyance, like you said, is the creaking. Especially from the sunglasses holder (I don't even use it), but the occasional press on it stops it for a while. Also on the door, around the top, by the locks it creaks too, and a small press there keeps it quite for a while lol.
Owned mark5 and sold it to get mark6, the best aging hot hatch! It has 3”dp, cts turbo intake, cts catch can, ecs st2 clutch, vta bov, st1+ tune. Thankfully all know issues (tensioner,water pump, flaps etc) are taken care of as costs double from mark5 to 6. For the people who don’t understand why we do it, it’s okay, that’s the first sign a Gti isn’t for you. These are truly a car for someone who has enthusiasm and love for their car, a person who pays attention to her needs lol.
No, people who don't understand are those who haven't driven a GTI. I was interested in the GTI but I wasn't really super aware of how hard I would fall for the car.
Thanks for the content. I have loved GTI since i was a kid and now i finally have the financial ablity to have a second car and im looking at the MK6 GTI. Your videos are tremendously helpful. It seems like most of the "reliability" issues can just be addressed upfront and resolved before they become an issue.
@@Chasechased yeah sure. I ended up getting a 2013 3door with a manual 6 speed trans in tornado red. It came with 1" lowering springs other than that it's stock. I was sure to get one with an extensive service history. So far I have had is a tail light bezel came loose causing some weird stuff to happen on the dash. Just had to snap it back into place. The hatch locking mechanism broke. I was able to buy a new one on eBay for $20 and install it in about 10 minutes, and it's got a bit of a oil leak that looks to be coming from around the valve cover area and it's made its way down to the exhaust so after a bit of driving I get a burning oil smell. I plan on taking care of that really soon. I also want to do my timing chain and water pump soon too just to stay ahead of any possible issue.
I loved my GTIs. I had a 2007, a 2014, and a 2018. I only sold my green ‘18 because of the harsh ride. I replaced it with an Audi that had well cushioned seats. I think I finally got too old for the GTI.
Yo what a great video. Thank you, sir. Mine is at 155k and $9k deep in repairs over the past year. However, all major things already done, with a new clutch, rear main seal, etc. Going in for a fuel leak (think injectors and o rings /manifold) but and a subframe issue + suspension refresh. Besides that I think it’s got another 60-90k miles left in her. Thanks for the video :)
Awesome vid! My CW MK6 GTI is @ 168k. I agree with your assessment....the car isn't unreliable but it is predictably unreliable. These cars definitely aren't met for people who don't intend to wrench a bit or don't have deep pockets/patience. Hope you continue to enjoy yours!
Mk6GolfGuy thanks man, I appreciate the comment! Glad to see someone else in the same boat, and at 168,000 miles is great! Definitely want to see how far I can keep mine going! Hope you enjoy yours too!
@@shanemitchell5807 all cars are predictably unreliable. They all require maintenance and all parts will eventually fail at some point either due to wear and tear or age. If you know what to watch out for you can keep the costs low like the timing chain for example. They are known to fail on these cars at about 100k miles. A pricey $2k repair but if you don’t get that taken care of it will turn into a $6k engine replacement not including the labor.
Had an ‘07, 2011 and currently drive a 2017 with zero issues. The MK5 and MK6 went over 100k with stock clutch and flywheel and I daily the MK7 sport dsg in Buffalo winters with no problems ever. I have an ‘04 24v VR6 that is also bulletproof, leather even looks new. Buy a Toyota if you don’t wanna take care of your car.
I love my mk2 gti but its kinda like death of 1000 cuts, i dont normally get the huge problems and the ones i do get are quick fixes. To be fair the car is 31 years old now with 270k miles and it sat for 14 years before i bought it
I'm at 280,000 miles on my 2012 GTI I bought new. That's K04 and full bolts ons since 10K. All the cars I saw die before mine, the owners went cheap on maintenance. Don't skimp on fluids and clutches like many do. Change the oil every 5K and plugs every 10K with bigger turbo or 20K OEM turbo. Do these easy things and it'll last forever nearly. I'm finally planning on a new long block at 300K, just so I can trust it on long trips. Runs fine, but 280k makes me nervous.
The creaky noise when parking in a parking lot or making slow turns is actually the strut bearings. I just had mine replaced along with the struts and mounts. No more creaking!
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy Ahhhh.....gotcha. I guess I misunderstood your post. I have a Eos so I understand some noise. You said you lube your door seals, I have to do my roof seals every 4-6 months or so to keep the squeaking to a minimum and to keep it dry inside.
I made it to 115k with my biggest repair being my suspension which was probably do to a pot hole. I should have noticed that something was up but until I had to do my wheel bearings I didn't notice I had snapped a rear spring (car still handled pretty well). At 115k that was when I needed a timing chain service and I had a bit of a leak so I decided to trade it in for a MK7 GTI... 🤔
Funny you should mention that, because I have an ECS stage II clutch package waiting to be installed. I think I’m going to make an install video on it. Thanks for the comment!
My Audi A3 8P Quattro with the EA888 has been great and has 154k on it, Runs awesome. But I knew it had to have chains done before I even bought it. Had the OEM tensioner still even. Ah, And usually on the GTI's the RPM's hang because they have a Dual Mass flywheel. I did a clutch job and flywheel upgrade on my buddies Mk6 GTI and ill tell you, that Dual Mass Flywheel they come with weighs a metric ton. If you are doing a clutch job, Swap that behemoth of a flywheel.
2013, 66k miles, 8 years of ownership- new clutch, fuel pump, water pump, abs module, roof liner, 5 batteries, multiple sensors, melted interior plastic, coolant leakage in engine compartment, and a whole lot more.. over $10k in mechanic fees. Gti is engineered to fail reliability.
2013 owner here, only had to replace 1 coilover since buying at 44k. 118k now, one of the best cars I have ever owned. Just have done regular maintenance, brakes, etc.
My 2012, 2 liter gti has the red oil light and beep even though i changed the oil and the sensor, 100k miles, the engine sounds fine, what could be my problem?
You all be like "That's a lot of miles" My 2010 mk6 GTI DSG has 250k miles on it and still going strong, did the chain tentioner update and had a new intake on it and that's it.
Problem is most previous owners do not use high quality engine oil, they do the quick stop $15.99 change. Plus, always check your oil level on fill up, you can prevent serious carbon deposits by catching oil consumption. On direct injection you'll never stop it, because the fuel, 93 with detergents or not, never touches the valves. Never had a huge problem in my MK V, just the cold side, and walnuts is the only way, not seafoam. My MK VI is still pristine at 31k, but it is inevitable.
@@thetransporter3028 Me too. I have a 71 Coupe hardtop with a 377 Stroker Cleveland in mine. 2V closed chamber heads. Headers. C6 trans. It hasnt run in a while. I had to redo fuel system due to sitting and installed new Baer brakes. You have a later blue one? What is it exactly?
@@jamesmedina2062 awesome man! I got a 73 mach 1, 351m stroked out to a 408. 4 on the floor. Making 400ish HP and more tq. Big Cleveland heads, mild cam, hooker headers. 9 " rear end, Currie diff, 31 spline axles and just ordered a bunch of global west / TCP suspension parts for it. When I drive it, I pretend I'm in the 70s just crusing around. Love looking over that big ol'hood 😻
I bought a pedalbox for my mk6(not gti) and I love it! Really improves the throttle response for me. Definitely worth it to check it out at least, you can return it and get your money back if you don't like it.
These cars are notorious for having the throttle go out of calibration if driven hard. VAGCOM or an APR tune can let you calibrate it, takes seconds. I do so monthly.
The blow off sounds in the beginning was all I needed to hear, that turbo flutter is so bad for the ko3. The TSI 2 liter is designed for a recirculating diverter valve. Most VW owner don’t take care and maintain them. Changing oil every 5k and keeping up to date with routine maintenance is the key, if you want the Mk6 then stick with the 2014 model, they fixed the common issues with timing chain tensioner and water pump. I have 178k on mine, stage 2 with zero issues and never a check engine.
Sea foam in the gas really wont help with the carbon build up that causes issues since it would be directly injected with the fuel which causes the problem to begin with. The carbon build up that causes issues is on the valves and intake manifold. You can use the spray sea foam used through the intake though and that may help a little.
Adrenaline Junkie I used the top engine cleaner seafoam, the one that sprays directly past the throttlebody into the intake manifold. You’re totally right, the gas treatment wouldn’t do anything because it’s direct injection anyhow! But the stuff that I used worked very well!
I’m thinking on buying a mk6 2010 with and 150,000 miles on it, have a lot of aftermarket parts and body kits , it’s manual trans and looks gorgeous, the owner ask 7,000 , If he down mow the price to 6,000 I would buy it, but I’m afraid of wasting my money if they are bad cars.
@@comic14 yess, actually it just have 134k miles on it, r32 spoilers,airlift suspension, sound system, stage 2 with a complete 3” exhaust system, i pay $6100 for it and i love it 😍
I drive a 2011 2.5 Jetta, probably one of the most reliable of the gas engines they made. That said, Some of the problems I had are the same thing a 91 MK1 had. Door latches, ignition switch, wiper motor and rear brakes calipers. It's like they made all the parts 30 years ago and kept putting them in....(not the ignition switch, they updated that with one that fails too) I'm pretty Handy, so tinkering with the car is not a problem. For a GERMAN(Mexican) CAR its pretty good. LOL
ive had some issues with the 2.5l. oil leaks, pcv valve keeps ripping or melts a hole. other than that its been good. most of the problems are age related. plastics crack. almost 135k miles would like to get it to 160k before considering a new car.
Came across this video as I say goodbye to my MK6 soon. Has 106k on it and have had to replace the following: 1 recall water pump and 1 that failed, so it's on its 3rd currently. Radiator, turbocharger, 2 sets of ignition coils, fuel injectors, rear passenger side door lock, o2 sensors, belt tensioner, missing some small other replacements. It left me stranded a couple times as well and had bad misfiring issues until someone correctly diagnosed that it was carbon buildup. My advice would be to do your research on the car before buying, ones that have a history of breaking down are going to continue to have issues going forward. Otherwise, they drive great and are very practical.
The same bro. I have 2012 model with 100.000 km. Those misfires are really persistent. I did everything. Carbon cleanup, pcv valve, ventilation valve, etc. I’m really pissed off. I’ve never had such problems with any car. I’m gonna sell it bro. I cannot afford this expenses. And I really need some piece of relaxation…. I know that I will have those problems again. I’m tired bro.
i am currently looking for my first car and mk6s caught my eye ive been researching them quite a bit and i feel like its a chance on reliability people have been saying great car little to know issues and other people saying that its been terrible i go to mechanics school and i dont have deep pockets but all around it looks like a very fun car easy to mod and tune
Thanks for the comment man. My advice, if you can afford it, go with the mk7. But since you go to mechanics school, the MK6 is also a decent choice. They are very fun cars and easy to mod like you said. If you know what you are doing, the mk6 is just fine. Not all all of them have reliability issues. I’m at 134,000 miles on mine, and I haven’t had some of the problems that a lot of people say they have.
SIX VWs and never any problems. The problem is people put cheap-ass gas in them. Read the owner's manual. PREMIUM. My CC currently has 111K on it and ZERO problems getting there.
The rev hang is without a doubt due to carbon build up. I was having horrible cold start idle and massive amounts of rev hang. I tore into it and did the carbon clean up on the intake valves myself. I did the manifold and water pump at the same time and it was like new. 2013 2dr.
You think it really helped rev hang? Cold start i get but rev hang usually affected more by rotating balance assemblies like lighter flywheel brings faster rev increase and decrease to less force needed from crank due to less weight you know?
@@wr450sm5 Something I did fixed it. I have to assume it was the intake valves as it was a gradual process and was completely gone after I rebuilt the top end. I did replace the manifold, water pump, re-did the cam bridge seal and upper timing cover seals but from all my research, the carbon on the intake valves fuct up cold start idle and rev hang. GL
I know the Mk6’s have their known failures, just like any car, but the MK7 GTI is actually a pretty reliable car. It looks like you have modded your MK6, so it’s hard to say if your car is just unreliable or is it unreliable BECAUSE you have modded it? This is a question I will be addressing in an upcoming video I will be making on my MK7 GTI. I am decently heavily modded, and though I have had failures on my GTI, almost all of it is because of my mods. I am at 82k miles, and will be making a 100k mile reliability review when I got 100k miles (in a few months), so keep a lookout for my video!
I modified my car after I did all the fixes. The clutch is going because of the added torque from the tune, but everything else happened pretty much before the mods.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy interesting. Yeah I know Mk6’s have been known to be pretty unreliable, which sucks. I keep track of all the things I fix on my car (I’ve been tuned since 3k miles), and tbh almost everything I’ve had to fix on my car is because of my modding. Very very little has been unreliable on my MK7 as far as just something failing. Just the waterpump, battery, and ignition coils, have failed “just because” and not due to my mods. I’ve been very impressed with the MK7, and if I never modded it, I know I never would have had the problems I’ve had with it. But, the car is a lot funner with the mods, so it worth it haha
@slow mazda turbo, wastegate, front end links, clutch, turbo coolant line. The turbo coolant line failed due to improper install on my end. It’s a reliable piece otherwise. The turbo failed because I had it tuned improperly for the conditions I was running in, as well as not having an upgraded intercooler at the time it failed (I have a video on this so check that out). The wastegate failed for some reason, but probably due to tuning conditions. The end links failed just from abuse. It’s a cheap part to replace ($15-$20 each side). When you mod a car, things will fail. That’s a common thing. Especially when running double the power from stock, like I am. Honestly, it’s been a good car to me. Takes $$ to play. Thanks for subbing! I appreciate that! Check out my vids. Lots of GTI vids on my channel. You can’t go wrong with the MK7 GTI. They’re really good price used too.
Ive been wanting an mk6 2dr with the rims you have on the thumbnail. Scared to buy one and it isnt reliable because i would need it as a daily driver. ~60 miles a day. I am a typical honda guy but i wanted one of these for a long time now.
Had an mk7 I drove for 6 years until 180,000 miles ihad some recurring alternator problems and a door issue but nothing major ever went wrong with it. I bought an mk8 and have had to take it to the dealership 3 times for various electric issues. Idgaf they are still my favorite cars I've ever owned even more than my wife's G70
I love the looks with a fairly low profile tire and larger rims and tinted windows. No douche mods and stance garbage. I’m also a GTI nerd, I’ve owned two MK2 GTIs, one had the rare 9A 2.0l 16 valve, and another that I dumped a 16V into. I’ve also owned 2 Jetta’s and a Passat. If there’s anything that I’m a fanboy for, it’s VWs lol.
Ah the creaking door seals -drives me mad. I apply silicone spray which more or less stops it but needs re-applying every month or so. I do wonder if the seals have hardened over time and if fitting new ones would fix it - I can't imagine they would have been that bad when the car was new?
Ok so I just found a permanent fix, but it kinda sucks. I installed an x-brace on the rear strut towers, and the creaking is pretty much totally gone. And the car handles so much better now. BUT the brace impedes on storage space, if you want to fold the seats down. If you don't need the entire trunk that often, you should look into the Eurosport brace!
I’d definitely get one no matter where you go there will always be flaws after no machine is perfect but I’ve had a mk8 GTI and despite a creaky cabin and the informant system needing to be changed I absolutely loved it and it was so fun too drive and it looked awesome. I upgraded to the Mk8 R recently and also love it this car is a beast in every sense of the word and I’ve had 0 issues with my R so far. And I had 0 mechanical issues with my GTI only electrical. Those issues from the mk6 have been solved for the mk7’s and mk8’s
If you have the cash to upkeep it, a GTI is a fun car If you don’t have or want the extra maintenance, a Mazda3 hatchback (non-turbo) is a great option. 2014 & up are direct injection but I’ve read they don’t build as much carbon as VW does.
I mean some generations are super reliable if you take care the maintenance and don't drive it like you stole it 24/7. Turbos are the biggest expense you can expect if you want to drive it like a race car and don't change your oil.
i have a 2016 vw GTI 77k miles. No problems up until this year. It’s turning into a money pit. My gas mileage has been HORRIFIC and unexplainable driving worse than a v8. My EPC light keeps coming on . I’ve changed the coils , spark plugs, filters . My car last month out of no where wouldn’t turn on and was completely broken down, Germaine auto specialist mechanic stated it was “ carbon in the valves ….” New fuel injectors, fuel pump good… I don’t know where else to turn. If you have heard of these things or have any ideas of what could be going on . Thank you
EPC and bad mileage? It does sound like carbon on intake valves. If you’re a bit handy, you can clean them on your own. Otherwise, it might be your high pressure fuel pump. It could also be low octane fuel/old fuel filter. I would fill up the car with 93 octane, then unplug the battery for a little bit and plug it back in. Plus clear the EPC code
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy i already cleaned the carbon on the intake valves and changed the filters and checked the fuel pump even changed my coils LOL. I fill the car with chevron premium as well, that’s why I’m so confused and even my mechanic . Can’t explain my bad fuel and epc light keep coming on. Example : yesterday i filled my car to 210 miles of gas range I LITERALLY drove 10 miles and now my tank says i have 185 left ….the math ain’t mathing . Really sad havnt had any issues this whole 7 years up until this last year one thing after another. I’m really considering getting rid of it . Which sucks i love my car and take good care of it and its paid off smh
Sure! I think at that point most of the major issues have probably been addressed. It will most likely eventually need a carbon cleaning though. But I’d say go for it if it’s in good mechanical shape
The only thing I don’t like about the mk6 is the gas pedal. It’s that stupid pedal that comes up from the floor and is set back further than the brake so it’s near impossible to heal toe in this thing. Is what led me to just go with the dsg
I really hope someone can help me with some guidance, I'd appreciate it in advance, great video btw, very helpful and informative! I've been looking to pick up a 2012 Volkswagen GTI MK6 (4 door manual for those curious) and after doing a lot of research, I've seen that the timing chains is the biggest engine killer for this generation of GTIs. I've decided that changing the chains is 100% necessary and alongside doing it's regularly scheduled maintenance. I'm reaching the point where I want to go out and buy one however I can't shake the fear/concern of the tensioner knock and blowing up the engine. PCV valve is something else I'll get done once picking up an MK6 Anything else I can look out for or hidden areas to check to be sure? Thanks again in advance!
Thank you!! They’re decent cars if you know what to look out for. One other thing to look for is waste gate rattle or any codes related to boost/turbo. And rough idle/misfires. The PCV is important, but one of the first “mods” I’d do if I were you, is a catch can, to help reduce carbon deposits on the intake valves.
@@bearham no prob! Actually, one more thing. I’m rebuilding my engine right now because of one issue. The little oil screen in the camshaft bridge broke off and got lodged in one of my main bearings. SO, if you end up doing the tensioner/timing chain, I highly recommend removing the oil screen from the cam bridge.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy ahh gotcha. Im in Western MA. Roads looked similar. You'll enjoy the flywheel/clutch combo. It will create an audible noise like a tractor but if I can live with it you can :)
I wouldn't use a solid flywheel in place of a dmf. The tractor noises as said are nvh of the gearbox hub syncros, bearings, bottom end bearings prematurely wearing out due to vibration. Unless its a race car that gets rebuilt every few races i would fit a dmf with a performance clutch.
The CCT problem is nothing new. The older 1.8Ts had a timing belt between the crank and the exhaust cam and a chain from the exhaust cam to the intake cam. The CCT/CCA (adjuster) was a frequent failure point (been there ... done that ... fixed under warranty at the 4-year mark).
Looking at your car . I think my turbo may be blown . Someone put water in my gas tank . I emptied the gas tank and fuel rail and its still pumping white smoke . Fuel pump was new befor the water the fuel injector aren’t sticking . My opinion for the smoke “I THINK” is the turbo or fuel pump
Damn I’m sorry to hear that. Im not too familiar with turbo issues, as my mk6 had a new turbo put in before I bought it. Is it making noise and not making boost?
Great video man I think everybody should make a video like this who owns Volkswagens for a significant amount of time. just things to look out for. And potential problem areas.
I may be too late but always get a dual mass flywheel and a clutch meant for a dual mass flywheel. The clutch you have is meant for a single mass flywheel which means it won’t work with a dual mass. Also a single mass flywheel and clutch will cause mechanical shock which shreds your transmission within 150 miles.
I found a gti I think a mk6 with 107,000 miles on it the guy said it runs good nothings wrong with it for just under 8k is it worth it and will I run into any problems?
I’m at 136,000 on mine right now. Ask him what has been done to it so far. Ask him if the timing chain tensioner was updated. And ask him if the intake manifold has been replaced. I think 8000 is a very fair price if the car is in 100% working condition
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy bro there is a 2010gti super clean cosmetically. It’s actually stage 2, the owner has receipts of the tunes and every thing. He appears to be super responsible and took care of the car etc. he also took care of the the timing chain tensioner etc. it does have 128k miles. Do you you think I should get it? He wants $8.5. Would you consider it reliable since time chain tensioner service was done, and owmer made sure tunes were done properly. Or would you recommend me to just get a stock one
@@jonathanf7950 I think 8.5 is a little too much. But I think that’s cool because he’s clearly someone who knows and cares about cars, not someone who is going to drive 5000 miles over their oil change.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy thank you for your respond bro. I live on CA in Orange County specifically not sure if cars are pricier over all over here? Bc ik civic SIs for example are cheaper outside the state. Anyway, would you recommend me getting a stage 2 ( Moded car) in terms of reliability not sure how much less reliable it could be compared to stock. Sorry for my ignorance
I had a 92 GTI that i sold in 04 . The only problem I had was the seat level.It broke 2 years after I paid it off . Every review I ever heard dogs the GTI . They need to let an owner do a review who's not getting paid.
Almost everyone I know with a gti it's been the ones that are modified give the most problems my factory 2017 autobahn runs great no issues and fun to drive keep up with maintenance and don't jack with it with aftermarket crap
@@thomasburns3345 US CURRENCY. When it's the middle of a winter storm, dealer is 40 miles away, sharp broken rod is flailing around and endangering brake lines and caliper, don't trust any other shops in town, and you've got to get to work, you pay railroad prices.
Too late, but based on watching and listening to this car, the reason you have a hanging RPM is because of a boost leak you have / had. Likely coming from the PCV.
as long as you look after these cars they will live for ages, less reliability comes with buying a performance vehicle if you want reliability get a camry
How on earth do you drive 40k miles in a year? I think VW get a lot complaints on reliability. If you take care of it, they will be a good car. So many people pound the crap out of their VW, dont change the oil enough or do regular maintnence and wonder why they have problems. My 86 golf went to the junkyard at 290k miles, my b5.5 passat has 155k and is going strong.
Amen brother. Mk6 gti 100,000. Run your PVC through tubing under the car(no carbon) just plug the intake manifold and turbo intake. Use Mann oil filters and Pentosen oil with Lucus synthetic additive. Change it often. Change your DSG fluid and filter every 40,000. My car has never been in the shop.
I was really focused on the boots in the back seat
I should've buckled them in.
Same lol
Lol 😂😂 me too !!!
Thanks. Now I am too
Thanks a lot for ruining my focus
The Scotty K "rev up your engines" reference, I died laughing. Good on you bud lol!
😂 I’m glad you picked up on that. Thanks man
Hahahaha I replayed that 3 times. So jokes!
The 94 Celica , Highlander recommending Glasses wearing old mechanic that says can’t fix stupid lol
Really sent me too🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
With the timing chain issue, mine went one week after I bought mine. I had 98k miles, and there's actually another extended warranty for 10 years or 100k miles and I got it fixed for free. So, if it happens to you take it to a vw dealership and you'll get a free $1,200-1,800 repair. I'm just glad mine went while I still had under 100k.
I'm at 40k but it's a 2011. I'm wondering if I'm still in the warranty period!
@@stepsidelandscapinglawnsol3093 call your local vw dealership! You might still be, and a 2011 with 40k? That's crazy!
@@tommycarney8668 it is crazy I agree lol. Has a stage 1 tune (visible intake and catback) so wish me luck. Thank you for the reply!
@@stepsidelandscapinglawnsol3093 when I got mine fixed I had an intake as well, but hadn't tuned it yet. I don't know if having a tune would void the extended warranty, but if not make sure they know you have a tune so they don't overwrite anything lol
@@tommycarney8668 good thinking! We have an APR downpipe + tune authorization waiting for springtime. So if they wipe it ill I won't make a fit lol
Bought a DSG 2011 GTI last year, drove it for a year and decided it was a keeper for a few more years. I cleaned the intake (wasn't that bad tbh but just for peace of mind) with oven cleaner and the zip-tie method, saved me 850,- euro's by doing it myself. Then I got it tuned together with a DSG tune, that totally transformed the car! It's so fast and responsive now, but I lost the "farts" on upshifts because the DSG is shifting much faster now. Recently I had to replace a driveshaft (easy job) and changed the auxiliary belt and tensioner (pain in the ass because you have to loosen an engine mount to get the tensioner out) together with the PCV valve (also for peace of mind). Sadly the paint has a few scratches and the front bumper could use a respray because of rockchips. But the interior and mechanical parts are all in very good condition and I love to drive the car! (my other daily is a BMW 5 series so I set the bar pretty high for cars!)
The door seal issues are only on the 4 doors. Most of the 2 doors are quiter on the cabin due to having less doors
My 2017 GTI has had an oil leak from filter housing (warranty), a coolant leak at the thermostat (warranty) and another small oil leak at the oil sending unit. This is quite on par with its reputation. Oh, 25K miles.
Mine has had a thermostat leak since 20k kms lolol
Same here on the thermostat leak, fixed under warranty around 55k kms.
Gotta say out of all of the cars and trucks I've driven at my job, two of my favorites were a 2014 GTI and a 2017 Golf R. They rip, super fun and easy to drive, and they're affordable to buy. However, both of these cars had to be bought back by my dealership from the customers due to electronic issues, then sent to auction. The GTI had a reoccurring CEL and even the VW dealership we kept bringing it to couldn't get it sorted 😞
Anecdotal evidence, there's gonna be people who have issues and people who have no issues. The question is whether the experience that the car provides is worth the potential hassle.
275K miles 31.6 MPG /420 Miles per tank.
Change oil every 5K miles.
Clean Carbon at 60K mile intervals (When you disassemble to change water pump / time chain / belt (FSI / TSI).
It will last forever.
@@justincace5517that is pretty honest and accurate
@@justincace5517you helped made it easier to getting one of these
@@justincace5517exactly . My tfsi motor strong with 220k and will gap cars still lol and I out bolt on models charge pipes light weight flywheel and gfb+ dv
I own a two door mk6 gti autobahn and I’ve never had the frame flexing issue. Also I’m used to working on tfsi engines so the tsi engine is basically heaven when it comes to maintenance because it doesn’t eat itself if you don’t replace random parts every thousand miles. I’ve managed to keep a tfsi running for 200k miles and I plan on keeping my tsi running for 250k miles.
Just tuned my mk6 gti and it's so much better, and I just want to drive all the time. The biggest annoyance, like you said, is the creaking. Especially from the sunglasses holder (I don't even use it), but the occasional press on it stops it for a while. Also on the door, around the top, by the locks it creaks too, and a small press there keeps it quite for a while lol.
My whole sunglasses and light trim piece is very loose and keeps slightly coming undone from the roof
Little gaff tape or some silicone lube in the right corners works wonders
Owned mark5 and sold it to get mark6, the best aging hot hatch! It has 3”dp, cts turbo intake, cts catch can, ecs st2 clutch, vta bov, st1+ tune. Thankfully all know issues (tensioner,water pump, flaps etc) are taken care of as costs double from mark5 to 6. For the people who don’t understand why we do it, it’s okay, that’s the first sign a Gti isn’t for you. These are truly a car for someone who has enthusiasm and love for their car, a person who pays attention to her needs lol.
No, people who don't understand are those who haven't driven a GTI. I was interested in the GTI but I wasn't really super aware of how hard I would fall for the car.
In other words they are unreliable and you need deep pockets to keep them running.
@@Osprey1994 Sucker!
@@shanemitchell5807 just keep up the maintenance
Thanks for the content. I have loved GTI since i was a kid and now i finally have the financial ablity to have a second car and im looking at the MK6 GTI. Your videos are tremendously helpful. It seems like most of the "reliability" issues can just be addressed upfront and resolved before they become an issue.
@@dudoboi oh it is my daily. My other car is now my utility vehicle
@@thisfool89 how has it been
@@Redhulk-zw9hq its been an amazing car. I love it.
Update?
@@Chasechased yeah sure. I ended up getting a 2013 3door with a manual 6 speed trans in tornado red. It came with 1" lowering springs other than that it's stock. I was sure to get one with an extensive service history.
So far I have had is a tail light bezel came loose causing some weird stuff to happen on the dash. Just had to snap it back into place. The hatch locking mechanism broke. I was able to buy a new one on eBay for $20 and install it in about 10 minutes, and it's got a bit of a oil leak that looks to be coming from around the valve cover area and it's made its way down to the exhaust so after a bit of driving I get a burning oil smell. I plan on taking care of that really soon. I also want to do my timing chain and water pump soon too just to stay ahead of any possible issue.
I loved my GTIs. I had a 2007, a 2014, and a 2018. I only sold my green ‘18 because of the harsh ride. I replaced it with an Audi that had well cushioned seats. I think I finally got too old for the GTI.
Yo what a great video. Thank you, sir. Mine is at 155k and $9k deep in repairs over the past year. However, all major things already done, with a new clutch, rear main seal, etc. Going in for a fuel leak (think injectors and o rings /manifold) but and a subframe issue + suspension refresh. Besides that I think it’s got another 60-90k miles left in her. Thanks for the video :)
Another informative and hilarious video. You are quickly becoming my favorite TH-camr!
❤️ Thank you! If only I could upload more! Hopefully more soon.
My pristine 07 MK5 was recently in a head-on collision. I found a pristine 12 MK6 Autobahn 2D, time for an upgrade. Can’t wait to see it this weekend!
Awesome vid! My CW MK6 GTI is @ 168k. I agree with your assessment....the car isn't unreliable but it is predictably unreliable. These cars definitely aren't met for people who don't intend to wrench a bit or don't have deep pockets/patience. Hope you continue to enjoy yours!
Mk6GolfGuy thanks man, I appreciate the comment! Glad to see someone else in the same boat, and at 168,000 miles is great! Definitely want to see how far I can keep mine going! Hope you enjoy yours too!
I love the logic "these cars are not unreliable but predictably unreliable"??? Doesn't that mean they are unreliable....
Like basic upkeep maintenance or skilled maintenance?
@@shanemitchell5807 all cars are predictably unreliable. They all require maintenance and all parts will eventually fail at some point either due to wear and tear or age. If you know what to watch out for you can keep the costs low like the timing chain for example. They are known to fail on these cars at about 100k miles. A pricey $2k repair but if you don’t get that taken care of it will turn into a $6k engine replacement not including the labor.
Bro got me when he pulled a scotty kilmer😂😂 “REV UP YOUR ENGINES!” 😂😂
Had an ‘07, 2011 and currently drive a 2017 with zero issues. The MK5 and MK6 went over 100k with stock clutch and flywheel and I daily the MK7 sport dsg in Buffalo winters with no problems ever. I have an ‘04 24v VR6 that is also bulletproof, leather even looks new. Buy a Toyota if you don’t wanna take care of your car.
I love my mk2 gti but its kinda like death of 1000 cuts, i dont normally get the huge problems and the ones i do get are quick fixes. To be fair the car is 31 years old now with 270k miles and it sat for 14 years before i bought it
I'm at 280,000 miles on my 2012 GTI I bought new. That's K04 and full bolts ons since 10K. All the cars I saw die before mine, the owners went cheap on maintenance.
Don't skimp on fluids and clutches like many do. Change the oil every 5K and plugs every 10K with bigger turbo or 20K OEM turbo. Do these easy things and it'll last forever nearly. I'm finally planning on a new long block at 300K, just so I can trust it on long trips. Runs fine, but 280k makes me nervous.
That impressive
The creaky noise when parking in a parking lot or making slow turns is actually the strut bearings. I just had mine replaced along with the struts and mounts. No more creaking!
Yes!! Had those done, and it helped with suspension noise for sure. Still have the cabin creaking though.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy Ahhhh.....gotcha. I guess I misunderstood your post. I have a Eos so I understand some noise. You said you lube your door seals, I have to do my roof seals every 4-6 months or so to keep the squeaking to a minimum and to keep it dry inside.
@@markb3756 it’s all good dude! Ah, I see. Hard top convertible problems haha.
I made it to 115k with my biggest repair being my suspension which was probably do to a pot hole. I should have noticed that something was up but until I had to do my wheel bearings I didn't notice I had snapped a rear spring (car still handled pretty well). At 115k that was when I needed a timing chain service and I had a bit of a leak so I decided to trade it in for a MK7 GTI... 🤔
One thing i did to my mk6 was to upgrade to a stage 2 clutch with a light weight flywheel and the rpm’s drop way quicker and no more rev hang
Funny you should mention that, because I have an ECS stage II clutch package waiting to be installed. I think I’m going to make an install video on it. Thanks for the comment!
I actually have that exact clutch on mk6 and just except there is a lot of rattle from the clutch
Having that installed as I speak!
My Audi A3 8P Quattro with the EA888 has been great and has 154k on it, Runs awesome. But I knew it had to have chains done before I even bought it. Had the OEM tensioner still even.
Ah, And usually on the GTI's the RPM's hang because they have a Dual Mass flywheel. I did a clutch job and flywheel upgrade on my buddies Mk6 GTI and ill tell you, that Dual Mass Flywheel they come with weighs a metric ton. If you are doing a clutch job, Swap that behemoth of a flywheel.
2013, 66k miles, 8 years of ownership- new clutch, fuel pump, water pump, abs module, roof liner, 5 batteries, multiple sensors, melted interior plastic, coolant leakage in engine compartment, and a whole lot more.. over $10k in mechanic fees. Gti is engineered to fail reliability.
Damn acc
Damn
or ur mechanic is getting the best of you 😟
2013 owner here, only had to replace 1 coilover since buying at 44k. 118k now, one of the best cars I have ever owned. Just have done regular maintenance, brakes, etc.
My 2012, 2 liter gti has the red oil light and beep even though i changed the oil and the sensor, 100k miles, the engine sounds fine, what could be my problem?
159k on my mk7 gti (stock). Only regular maintenance performed so far
You all be like "That's a lot of miles" My 2010 mk6 GTI DSG has 250k miles on it and still going strong, did the chain tentioner update and had a new intake on it and that's it.
By the way, stll has the original turbo...
250? U give me hope I'm almost been scared out of getting mine
Problem is most previous owners do not use high quality engine oil, they do the quick stop $15.99 change. Plus, always check your oil level on fill up, you can prevent serious carbon deposits by catching oil consumption. On direct injection you'll never stop it, because the fuel, 93 with detergents or not, never touches the valves. Never had a huge problem in my MK V, just the cold side, and walnuts is the only way, not seafoam. My MK VI is still pristine at 31k, but it is inevitable.
After you walnut blast, install a catch can. Problem solved.
That will not prevent carbon buildup just help prolong the inevitable walnut blast by a bit
Great vid, love my 13 gti as a daily / autocross toy. Dp, protune, coilovers and audi tt rs brakes = a good time indeed!
Thank you!! Nice daily, man!
Hey you have got a 71-73 Mustang?
@@jamesmedina2062 yes I do!
@@thetransporter3028 Me too. I have a 71 Coupe hardtop with a 377 Stroker Cleveland in mine. 2V closed chamber heads. Headers. C6 trans. It hasnt run in a while. I had to redo fuel system due to sitting and installed new Baer brakes. You have a later blue one? What is it exactly?
@@jamesmedina2062 awesome man! I got a 73 mach 1, 351m stroked out to a 408. 4 on the floor. Making 400ish HP and more tq. Big Cleveland heads, mild cam, hooker headers. 9 " rear end, Currie diff, 31 spline axles and just ordered a bunch of global west / TCP suspension parts for it. When I drive it, I pretend I'm in the 70s just crusing around. Love looking over that big ol'hood 😻
I bought a pedalbox for my mk6(not gti) and I love it! Really improves the throttle response for me. Definitely worth it to check it out at least, you can return it and get your money back if you don't like it.
These cars are notorious for having the throttle go out of calibration if driven hard. VAGCOM or an APR tune can let you calibrate it, takes seconds. I do so monthly.
The blow off sounds in the beginning was all I needed to hear, that turbo flutter is so bad for the ko3. The TSI 2 liter is designed for a recirculating diverter valve. Most VW owner don’t take care and maintain them. Changing oil every 5k and keeping up to date with routine maintenance is the key, if you want the Mk6 then stick with the 2014 model, they fixed the common issues with timing chain tensioner and water pump. I have 178k on mine, stage 2 with zero issues and never a check engine.
Sea foam in the gas really wont help with the carbon build up that causes issues since it would be directly injected with the fuel which causes the problem to begin with. The carbon build up that causes issues is on the valves and intake manifold. You can use the spray sea foam used through the intake though and that may help a little.
Adrenaline Junkie I used the top engine cleaner seafoam, the one that sprays directly past the throttlebody into the intake manifold. You’re totally right, the gas treatment wouldn’t do anything because it’s direct injection anyhow! But the stuff that I used worked very well!
You'll need a walnut blasting
Car wheel: Exists
German Engineer: What is this simplified technology? Humans aren't cavemen no longer!
I’m thinking on buying a mk6 2010 with and 150,000 miles on it, have a lot of aftermarket parts and body kits , it’s manual trans and looks gorgeous, the owner ask 7,000 , If he down mow the price to 6,000 I would buy it, but I’m afraid of wasting my money if they are bad cars.
Did you buy it?
@@comic14 yess, actually it just have 134k miles on it, r32 spoilers,airlift suspension, sound system, stage 2 with a complete 3” exhaust system, i pay $6100 for it and i love it 😍
I drive a 2011 2.5 Jetta, probably one of the most reliable of the gas engines they made. That said, Some of the problems I had are the same thing a 91 MK1 had. Door latches, ignition switch, wiper motor and rear brakes calipers. It's like they made all the parts 30 years ago and kept putting them in....(not the ignition switch, they updated that with one that fails too) I'm pretty Handy, so tinkering with the car is not a problem. For a GERMAN(Mexican) CAR its pretty good. LOL
ive had some issues with the 2.5l. oil leaks, pcv valve keeps ripping or melts a hole. other than that its been good. most of the problems are age related. plastics crack. almost 135k miles would like to get it to 160k before considering a new car.
Came across this video as I say goodbye to my MK6 soon. Has 106k on it and have had to replace the following: 1 recall water pump and 1 that failed, so it's on its 3rd currently. Radiator, turbocharger, 2 sets of ignition coils, fuel injectors, rear passenger side door lock, o2 sensors, belt tensioner, missing some small other replacements. It left me stranded a couple times as well and had bad misfiring issues until someone correctly diagnosed that it was carbon buildup. My advice would be to do your research on the car before buying, ones that have a history of breaking down are going to continue to have issues going forward. Otherwise, they drive great and are very practical.
The same bro. I have 2012 model with 100.000 km. Those misfires are really persistent. I did everything. Carbon cleanup, pcv valve, ventilation valve, etc. I’m really pissed off. I’ve never had such problems with any car. I’m gonna sell it bro. I cannot afford this expenses. And I really need some piece of relaxation…. I know that I will have those problems again. I’m tired bro.
i am currently looking for my first car and mk6s caught my eye ive been researching them quite a bit and i feel like its a chance on reliability people have been saying great car little to know issues and other people saying that its been terrible i go to mechanics school and i dont have deep pockets but all around it looks like a very fun car easy to mod and tune
Thanks for the comment man. My advice, if you can afford it, go with the mk7. But since you go to mechanics school, the MK6 is also a decent choice. They are very fun cars and easy to mod like you said. If you know what you are doing, the mk6 is just fine. Not all all of them have reliability issues. I’m at 134,000 miles on mine, and I haven’t had some of the problems that a lot of people say they have.
You will be taking a huge risk buying an MK6. Your mechanics school with be needed and deep pockets as well.
SIX VWs and never any problems.
The problem is people put cheap-ass gas in them. Read the owner's manual. PREMIUM. My CC currently has 111K on it and ZERO problems getting there.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy and my dad didn't like
Got a mk6 not long ago, almost at 170k miles n still going strong!! Just keep up with the maintenance and you’ll be good
The rev hang is without a doubt due to carbon build up. I was having horrible cold start idle and massive amounts of rev hang. I tore into it and did the carbon clean up on the intake valves myself. I did the manifold and water pump at the same time and it was like new.
2013 2dr.
You think it really helped rev hang? Cold start i get but rev hang usually affected more by rotating balance assemblies like lighter flywheel brings faster rev increase and decrease to less force needed from crank due to less weight you know?
@@wr450sm5 Something I did fixed it. I have to assume it was the intake valves as it was a gradual process and was completely gone after I rebuilt the top end. I did replace the manifold, water pump, re-did the cam bridge seal and upper timing cover seals but from all my research, the carbon on the intake valves fuct up cold start idle and rev hang. GL
I know the Mk6’s have their known failures, just like any car, but the MK7 GTI is actually a pretty reliable car. It looks like you have modded your MK6, so it’s hard to say if your car is just unreliable or is it unreliable BECAUSE you have modded it?
This is a question I will be addressing in an upcoming video I will be making on my MK7 GTI. I am decently heavily modded, and though I have had failures on my GTI, almost all of it is because of my mods. I am at 82k miles, and will be making a 100k mile reliability review when I got 100k miles (in a few months), so keep a lookout for my video!
I modified my car after I did all the fixes. The clutch is going because of the added torque from the tune, but everything else happened pretty much before the mods.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy interesting. Yeah I know Mk6’s have been known to be pretty unreliable, which sucks. I keep track of all the things I fix on my car (I’ve been tuned since 3k miles), and tbh almost everything I’ve had to fix on my car is because of my modding. Very very little has been unreliable on my MK7 as far as just something failing. Just the waterpump, battery, and ignition coils, have failed “just because” and not due to my mods. I’ve been very impressed with the MK7, and if I never modded it, I know I never would have had the problems I’ve had with it. But, the car is a lot funner with the mods, so it worth it haha
@slow mazda turbo, wastegate, front end links, clutch, turbo coolant line.
The turbo coolant line failed due to improper install on my end. It’s a reliable piece otherwise. The turbo failed because I had it tuned improperly for the conditions I was running in, as well as not having an upgraded intercooler at the time it failed (I have a video on this so check that out). The wastegate failed for some reason, but probably due to tuning conditions. The end links failed just from abuse. It’s a cheap part to replace ($15-$20 each side).
When you mod a car, things will fail. That’s a common thing. Especially when running double the power from stock, like I am. Honestly, it’s been a good car to me. Takes $$ to play.
Thanks for subbing! I appreciate that! Check out my vids. Lots of GTI vids on my channel. You can’t go wrong with the MK7 GTI. They’re really good price used too.
@6:14 Scotty is that you!
He made a guest appearance!
Funny asf
Just got a new mk6 gti and I’m in love.
I’m planning to get one myself, did you have any problems with it ?
@@davidbestea4221 yeah only a few minor things, as expected with high milage
@@TheLiveSquad what sort of issues?
6:12 "Rev up your engines" 😂😂😂
My inner Scotty came out
Ive been wanting an mk6 2dr with the rims you have on the thumbnail. Scared to buy one and it isnt reliable because i would need it as a daily driver. ~60 miles a day. I am a typical honda guy but i wanted one of these for a long time now.
Had an mk7 I drove for 6 years until 180,000 miles ihad some recurring alternator problems and a door issue but nothing major ever went wrong with it. I bought an mk8 and have had to take it to the dealership 3 times for various electric issues. Idgaf they are still my favorite cars I've ever owned even more than my wife's G70
I love the sound your car makes
I love the looks with a fairly low profile tire and larger rims and tinted windows. No douche mods and stance garbage. I’m also a GTI nerd, I’ve owned two MK2 GTIs, one had the rare 9A 2.0l 16 valve, and another that I dumped a 16V into. I’ve also owned 2 Jetta’s and a Passat. If there’s anything that I’m a fanboy for, it’s VWs lol.
I just bought a 2019 Golf GTI. I'm here for the horror stories. 😄
😂 You’ll be good dude 👍🏼
Same
You'll be fine
Ah the creaking door seals -drives me mad. I apply silicone spray which more or less stops it but needs re-applying every month or so. I do wonder if the seals have hardened over time and if fitting new ones would fix it - I can't imagine they would have been that bad when the car was new?
Ok so I just found a permanent fix, but it kinda sucks. I installed an x-brace on the rear strut towers, and the creaking is pretty much totally gone. And the car handles so much better now. BUT the brace impedes on storage space, if you want to fold the seats down. If you don't need the entire trunk that often, you should look into the Eurosport brace!
Depends on the year. The 2014 model solved most of these issues. I have 130K and zero issues.
Totally. I think it was the first half of the 2014 model years that still had the tensioner issues. You must have a later-model 2014?
2013 GTI with 160,000 mi. No problems except fuel gauge went intermittent then dead. Any suggestions out there?
Thanks!
Jim, San Diego
Love the Scotty Kilmer reference 6:12 👌😂
Really Appreciate the effort you put into this video. I am currently looking at GTIs and this was a big help! Thanks.
Good luck with the search!
I’d definitely get one no matter where you go there will always be flaws after no machine is perfect but I’ve had a mk8 GTI and despite a creaky cabin and the informant system needing to be changed I absolutely loved it and it was so fun too drive and it looked awesome. I upgraded to the Mk8 R recently and also love it this car is a beast in every sense of the word and I’ve had 0 issues with my R so far. And I had 0 mechanical issues with my GTI only electrical. Those issues from the mk6 have been solved for the mk7’s and mk8’s
If you have the cash to upkeep it, a GTI is a fun car
If you don’t have or want the extra maintenance, a Mazda3 hatchback (non-turbo) is a great option. 2014 & up are direct injection but I’ve read they don’t build as much carbon as VW does.
whats the intake setup on your car? the turbo sound is amazing!
High flow downpipe, Unitronic cold air intake and GFP diverter valve spacer. I now have a turbo muffler delete, which I recommend
How much hp can the 2013 GTI OEM brakes and pads handle I want to install unitronic cold air intake and turbo back exhaust for my first upgrade’s
I mean some generations are super reliable if you take care the maintenance and don't drive it like you stole it 24/7. Turbos are the biggest expense you can expect if you want to drive it like a race car and don't change your oil.
i have a 2016 vw GTI 77k miles. No problems up until this year. It’s turning into a money pit. My gas mileage has been HORRIFIC and unexplainable driving worse than a v8. My EPC light keeps coming on . I’ve changed the coils , spark plugs, filters . My car last month out of no where wouldn’t turn on and was completely broken down, Germaine auto specialist mechanic stated it was “ carbon in the valves ….” New fuel injectors, fuel pump good… I don’t know where else to turn. If you have heard of these things or have any ideas of what could be going on . Thank you
EPC and bad mileage? It does sound like carbon on intake valves. If you’re a bit handy, you can clean them on your own. Otherwise, it might be your high pressure fuel pump. It could also be low octane fuel/old fuel filter. I would fill up the car with 93 octane, then unplug the battery for a little bit and plug it back in. Plus clear the EPC code
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy i already cleaned the carbon on the intake valves and changed the filters and checked the fuel pump even changed my coils LOL. I fill the car with chevron premium as well, that’s why I’m so confused and even my mechanic . Can’t explain my bad fuel and epc light keep coming on. Example : yesterday i filled my car to 210 miles of gas range I LITERALLY drove 10 miles and now my tank says i have 185 left ….the math ain’t mathing . Really sad havnt had any issues this whole 7 years up until this last year one thing after another. I’m really considering getting rid of it . Which sucks i love my car and take good care of it and its paid off smh
Would you recommend a 2013 model with 104k miles ? CARFAX shows good maintenance record too
Sure! I think at that point most of the major issues have probably been addressed. It will most likely eventually need a carbon cleaning though. But I’d say go for it if it’s in good mechanical shape
What is that kettle whistle sound when boosting or did your downpipe cause that sound because our vw t4 2.5 tdi also make this sound
For me, it was the diverter valve. Doing a diverter valve spacer solved the issue.
Isit ok cool thanks then i must look somewhere else our t4 don't have a recirculating valve
The only thing I don’t like about the mk6 is the gas pedal. It’s that stupid pedal that comes up from the floor and is set back further than the brake so it’s near impossible to heal toe in this thing. Is what led me to just go with the dsg
How Can i know if i need to change the time chain of my Gti 2012 ?
Currently have a Mk7.5 now and the chassis issue/creaking still exists.
How did you have a tensioner problem they implemented the new tensioners in July 2012?
I think it was late 2013 they started the upgraded tensioners. And since mine was manufactured in 2013, I got the tail end of it
I hate that voice button. I was thinking to try to cut off the wire. What do you think?
Six VWs and have never had that problem because I turn the wheel from the OUTSIDE.
I really hope someone can help me with some guidance, I'd appreciate it in advance, great video btw, very helpful and informative!
I've been looking to pick up a 2012 Volkswagen GTI MK6 (4 door manual for those curious) and after doing a lot of research, I've seen that the timing chains is the biggest engine killer for this generation of GTIs.
I've decided that changing the chains is 100% necessary and alongside doing it's regularly scheduled maintenance.
I'm reaching the point where I want to go out and buy one however I can't shake the fear/concern of the tensioner knock and blowing up the engine.
PCV valve is something else I'll get done once picking up an MK6
Anything else I can look out for or hidden areas to check to be sure?
Thanks again in advance!
Thank you!! They’re decent cars if you know what to look out for. One other thing to look for is waste gate rattle or any codes related to boost/turbo. And rough idle/misfires. The PCV is important, but one of the first “mods” I’d do if I were you, is a catch can, to help reduce carbon deposits on the intake valves.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy Thank you for your quick reply!
No worries, I'll keep an eye out for those things, any new updates are heavily appreciated :)
@@bearham no prob! Actually, one more thing. I’m rebuilding my engine right now because of one issue. The little oil screen in the camshaft bridge broke off and got lodged in one of my main bearings. SO, if you end up doing the tensioner/timing chain, I highly recommend removing the oil screen from the cam bridge.
Performance clutch and lightweight flywheel should resolve your RPM hang. Has to do with the dual mass flywheel. Where in MA are you?
That’s what I was thinking too. I bought a single mass stage II flywheel, and I’m hoping that helps. I’m 2 minutes south of Gillette stadium!
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy ahh gotcha. Im in Western MA. Roads looked similar. You'll enjoy the flywheel/clutch combo. It will create an audible noise like a tractor but if I can live with it you can :)
Oh sweet man, whereabouts? And thanks, I’m hoping it makes a big difference. Also I’m doing the rear main seal and dog bone when I’m down there 🤙🏼
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy Located in South Hadley MA. I will be modding this car so I'll be in the game for awhile!
I wouldn't use a solid flywheel in place of a dmf. The tractor noises as said are nvh of the gearbox hub syncros, bearings, bottom end bearings prematurely wearing out due to vibration. Unless its a race car that gets rebuilt every few races i would fit a dmf with a performance clutch.
Am I the only one who actually loves the old tractor sound? LoL
The CCT problem is nothing new. The older 1.8Ts had a timing belt between the crank and the exhaust cam and a chain from the exhaust cam to the intake cam. The CCT/CCA (adjuster) was a frequent failure point (been there ... done that ... fixed under warranty at the 4-year mark).
Looking at your car . I think my turbo may be blown . Someone put water in my gas tank . I emptied the gas tank and fuel rail and its still pumping white smoke . Fuel pump was new befor the water the fuel injector aren’t sticking . My opinion for the smoke “I THINK” is the turbo or fuel pump
Damn I’m sorry to hear that. Im not too familiar with turbo issues, as my mk6 had a new turbo put in before I bought it. Is it making noise and not making boost?
Great video man I think everybody should make a video like this who owns Volkswagens for a significant amount of time. just things to look out for. And potential problem areas.
🙏🏼 thanks dude!
I may be too late but always get a dual mass flywheel and a clutch meant for a dual mass flywheel. The clutch you have is meant for a single mass flywheel which means it won’t work with a dual mass. Also a single mass flywheel and clutch will cause mechanical shock which shreds your transmission within 150 miles.
My brain: "shoes, shoes, shoes, shoes!"
Are they fashionable? 💁🏼♀️
🤦♂️🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Are you still interested in reducing rev hang? It can be fixed for about $30, let me know.
Really looking to get a mk6 and throwing some nice rotiforms on it
I found a gti I think a mk6 with 107,000 miles on it the guy said it runs good nothings wrong with it for just under 8k is it worth it and will I run into any problems?
I’m at 136,000 on mine right now. Ask him what has been done to it so far. Ask him if the timing chain tensioner was updated. And ask him if the intake manifold has been replaced. I think 8000 is a very fair price if the car is in 100% working condition
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy bro there is a 2010gti super clean cosmetically. It’s actually stage 2, the owner has receipts of the tunes and every thing. He appears to be super responsible and took care of the car etc. he also took care of the the timing chain tensioner etc. it does have 128k miles. Do you you think I should get it? He wants $8.5. Would you consider it reliable since time chain tensioner service was done, and owmer made sure tunes were done properly. Or would you recommend me to just get a stock one
@@jonathanf7950 I think 8.5 is a little too much. But I think that’s cool because he’s clearly someone who knows and cares about cars, not someone who is going to drive 5000 miles over their oil change.
@@NotSoHandyCarGuy thank you for your respond bro. I live on CA in Orange County specifically not sure if cars are pricier over all over here? Bc ik civic SIs for example are cheaper outside the state. Anyway, would you recommend me getting a stage 2 ( Moded car) in terms of reliability not sure how much less reliable it could be compared to stock. Sorry for my ignorance
The "radiator identification sensor" only sold bundled with the radiator makes me so angry!
Wait, 8 way adjustable seats for a generation of car that came out in '10 is considered "minimal adjustability"?
you're ruining it! You're ruining it! Voice Command. I feel ya! Every Track weekend! Drives me nuts!
I had a 92 GTI that i sold in 04 . The only problem I had was the seat level.It broke 2 years after I paid it off . Every review I ever heard dogs the GTI . They need to let an owner do a review who's not getting paid.
Great vid. Helped me buy a 2010 GTI....
haha love the jab at scotty kilmer with the rev up your engines comment :)
Nice informative video, thanks!
No problem! Thanks for watching
I was like meh on this video - it was fine, no judgement, but then you made the scotty kilmer joke and i DIED laughing lol.
What turbo is making that sound?
It’s just a combination of the cold air intake and diverter valve spacer. It makes all the fun turbo noises easier to hear
I might buy a 2014 gti wolfberg edition with 140,000 miles for $9,000 should I do it?
Or will it turn into a s***show??
Almost everyone I know with a gti it's been the ones that are modified give the most problems my factory 2017 autobahn runs great no issues and fun to drive keep up with maintenance and don't jack with it with aftermarket crap
Should have got the more solid mkv Gti if you want to tune it. Especially tuning above 250! Mk6 isn’t any better in anyway apart from looks
No broken sway bar? Mine sheared. $1600 from an independent mechanic. (Had him put in new links too.)
Surprising not! And I drive this thing HARD. But I’ll keep a close eye on it
How does a sway bar cost $1600?
$1600? That's absurd!
Either you’re lying,
That’s in a currency other than USD,
Or you just got ripped off for the highest amount on a single job I’ve ever seen.
@@thomasburns3345 US CURRENCY. When it's the middle of a winter storm, dealer is 40 miles away, sharp broken rod is flailing around and endangering brake lines and caliper, don't trust any other shops in town, and you've got to get to work, you pay railroad prices.
Ayyyyy, he's back
Magnanime 1 I’m back baby back baby back
Too late, but based on watching and listening to this car, the reason you have a hanging RPM is because of a boost leak you have / had. Likely coming from the PCV.
That’s still useful input, though! Thank you
as long as you look after these cars they will live for ages, less reliability comes with buying a performance vehicle if you want reliability get a camry
I am exactly what you said, a teenage no good doer, and I’m looking to buy a gti
Great review. Very refreshing
Thank you, I appreciate that a ton!
Great vid! 👌🏻
This guy has a 4runner that looks just like my old one i miss it😢 he has both my dream mobiles lol
Love the fall out boy reference 😂
Thanks dude! Glad you got it. You hear the new song??
218,000 k on my gti original tensioner no problems
Ticking time bomb. Get rid of it before BOOOOOOM!
Wtf
How on earth do you drive 40k miles in a year? I think VW get a lot complaints on reliability. If you take care of it, they will be a good car. So many people pound the crap out of their VW, dont change the oil enough or do regular maintnence and wonder why they have problems. My 86 golf went to the junkyard at 290k miles, my b5.5 passat has 155k and is going strong.
Amen brother. Mk6 gti 100,000. Run your PVC through tubing under the car(no carbon) just plug the intake manifold and turbo intake. Use Mann oil filters and Pentosen oil with Lucus synthetic additive. Change it often. Change your DSG fluid and filter every 40,000. My car has never been in the shop.
Light weight flywheel for the rpm hang