HVAC Basics: First - Mini Fridge Troubleshooting Part 2 - Using "Annie" to start a stuck compressor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2017
- In this video we pick up with our mini refrigerator and it's stuck (Locked up) compressor. We remove the cap and pull the overload/start relay to connect the old A-12 hermetic analyzer (Annie). It reverses the motor and fees up the compressor to run again. Within 15 minutes its cooling.
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What an interesting way to unlock the compressor. Presumably to run it in reverse, Annie would wire its internal capacitor in series with the run windings, causing a reverse phase shift, with the start windings acting as the new run winding. That would drive the rotor the opposite way for a few seconds. Great teaching.
What an excellent comment to sum it up perfectly. Thanks!
Returning to this video, to let people know. His explanation helped me to resolve a similar issue with my refrigerator. Thanks a million to the Wonderful Teacher!! 👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you for the kind words.
This guy knows what he’s talking about I’m subscribing
Thanks for the old tip very useful I will make a small one that may use use potential relay and switch
Thank you, again another helpful video!!!
Hat Off to Annie, Excellent Video. I punched a hole while scraping the ice. long story short, I plug that hole first with JB Weld, yes it worked for 3-4 days. JB Weld doesn't hole well with freon, but it worked. YES I PUT NEW FREON. 2nd time around I used aluminum solder from Home Depot. it was a learning experience and I spent $200 which I was not going to go down without a fight. Fixed hole, vacuum the lines, refilled with FREON (from auto parts, ITS THE SAME THING) why am I bringing this up ? because mine did Lock Up, hammer tap did free it up but locked up later down the road. I did everything you showed in 1st video BUT found more information with 2nd Part of Video. I found some water in the oil. could be from the hole and me vacuuming. I found the water because I wanted to convert the motor as vacuum pump. Gives Thumbs Up on video. i Like, OLE!
Holy crap I learned a lot in those two vids!!
Thank you for the info on the 3-in-1 hard start kits and why to not leave them on. I had a frig relay go bad maybe 3 years ago, and a friend arranged for an appliance shop to stop in and put one of these on. 3 years later, it seems to have blown out the windings in the compressor (hypothesis), and the frig is now junk. The compressor vibrates for 2 seconds and draws about 15 amps, and then the 3-in-1 shuts off. maybe 45 seconds later, this cycle repeats; 3-in-1 clicks, compressor makes noises, and amp draw hits about 15 amps, then 3--in-1 clicks and shuts off. 3-in-1 is hot at this point also. Seems like the 3-in-1 cools down a little and then it tries to start again. Every 45-60 seconds. All this time, compressor round metal cover is also hot.
There is continuity on all 3 terminals of the compressor, but there is no resistance, 0 ohms, between any of them. For my model, a 2002 Whirlpool side-by-side, the values are supposed to be 10, 6, and 4 ohms. My draft conclusion is that the compressor windings did in fact go bad, as the video author describes. Taking a leap of faith from that, if the proper part had been put in, the OEM relay kit for this frig, the frig would have stayed good for several more years. All else is good, the fans, the icemaker, etc. So it totally would have been worth it to me to spend $100 or whatever for the official OEM relay part to get 5 more years of service out of this frig.
If someone has better conclusions based on this, please share. If I had one of those reverse-the-compressor things, it could be worth a try I suppose.
Awesome.... I need one of those.
This is "HVAC in microcosm".
Lot of HVAC nuances going on here :)
Makes me wonder about "starting here" and then moving up to 'the big leagues' if residential.
Love that "Annie" machine.
Have to make that a TH-cam research project.
The following data is applicable to the ANNIE A12X Export 220-250 Volt-60 Cycle Model.
SECTION A - METER OPERATION
Ohmmeter
1. Make sure the Analyzer is unplugged and Ammeter Switch is off, Ammeter operates on “D” cell battery.
2. Move Ohmmeter Switch to ohms position.
3. Clip Red & Black leads together, turn Master Switch on, needle will move to about zero. Adjust to zero Ohms with control inside chord pocket. If meter will not zero, replace battery.
4. Use Red & Black leads to identify winding terminals. Highest Ohms is from Start to & Run terminal.Terminal left is Common. Reading from Common highest is Start. The remaining terminal with lowest reading is Run.
Voltmeter
1. Disconnect Analyzer from external power source.
2. Put Ammeter Switch to “Hi” position.
3. Put Ohmmeter Switch in “Power” position.
4. Put Voltmeter Switch in “Line” position.
5. Turn Master Switch “Off”.
6. Isolate Black, Red, White and Yellow from each other and earth.
7. Connect power supply chord of Analyzer to "voltage connection to be read.
8. The "voltage indicated on the Voltmeter is the line "voltage supplied to the Analyzer.
Ammeter
1. Disconnect Analyzer from external power source.
2. Put Ohmmeter switch in “Power” position.
3. Put Ammeter switch to “Off” position.
4. Put Master Switch in “On” position.
5. Connect the apparatus under test to the Red and Black leads. Isolate the Yellow and White leads from each other and ground.
6. Connect the Analyzer to a power supply of the correct "voltage for the apparatus being tested.
7. Put Ammeter Switch to “Hi” position, read up to 25A apparatus being tested. After apparatus has started switch to “Lo” position, if current draw on the ammeter is under"5A"
8. If line "voltage is desired while measuring amperage, place voltmeter switch in the “Line”position.
Section B - HOW TO CHECK A HERMITICALLY SEALED UNIT
1. Remove all external wiring from the terminals of the sealed unit.
2. Connect the Red Lead to the Run Terminal. White Lead to Start Terminal, Black Lead to the Common Terminal, and the
Yellow lead to the solidly Frame.
3. Make certain Master Switch; Ammeter Switch and Voltmeter Switch are off. DO NOT CONNECT ANALYZER TO EXTERNAL
POWER.
4. Put Ohmmeter Switch in “OHMS” position and press Start Button. If resistance is indicated (movement of ohmmeter)
the windings are shorted to the frame.Replace unit if this condition exists.
5. Put Master Switch in “On” to check resistance of Run winding. “Reverse” position checks resistance of Start windings.
Replace unit if windings are open or earthed.
Section C - HOW TO START A HERMITICALY SEALED UNIT
1. Remove Yellow Lead from frame and isolate it from earth.
2. Put “Ammeter” Switch to ‘Hi” position.
3. Put “Ohmmeter” Switch to “Power” position.
4. Put Master Switch in “Off” position.
5. Put Capacitor Selection Switch in proper range (see selection G)
6. Connect Analyzer to power supply of correct voltage for the compressor. Power Light will come on when the Analyzer is energized. If no light or a very dull glow of Power Light check fuse in chord pocket. Replace if necessary. Line Voltage can be read by putting Voltage Switch in line position.
7. Hold Start Button “IN” put Master Switch “ON” position.
8. Release button when units starts.
9. Turn Master Switch off if unit fails to start in 3 seconds.
10.If unit operated satisfactorily the trouble is with the capacitor, relay, control, overload or other external wiring.
11.Put Ammeter Switch and Voltmeter Switch to desired ranges for further tests. These tests include low voltage or high current draws, those that are above rated amperage. If unit fails to start it is stuck, see section D. Disregard capacitor and relay bulbs while making this test.
Section D - HOW TO REVERSE A STUCK OR FROZEN UNIT
1. Proceed as outlined in Section C, steps one and two.
2. Holding start button in, quickly move Master Switch between “On” and “Reverse” position several times. If unit starts let
it run for approximately a minute then turn it off.
3. Try to start the unit as outlined in Section C, Step 3. If unit now fails to start it is beyond help and must be replaced.
IF FUSE BLOWS WAIT FIVE MINUTES AND REPLACE THE FUSE INSIDE CORD POCKET
Section E - How To Test Capacitors
1. Make sure Master Switch and Ammeter Switch are off. Put Ohmmeter in Power position.
2. Disconnect Capacitor form all external wiring including bleed resistors.
3. Discharge Capacitor with light bulb or bleed resistor so as not to blow fuse on internally fused capacitors.
4. Connect Black and Yellow Leads to Capacitor terminals.
5. Connect tester to power source.
6. Place Ammeter Switch in “Hi” position and note reaction of light.
a. If light goes on then out the capacitor has taken a charge. New capacitors may keep the light glowing for few minutes
b. If no light the capacitor is open.
c. If light stays on then the capacitor is shorted.
d. If light decreases but does not go out the capacitor is leaking.
7. When light goes out, press capacity button for mFd reading of start capacitors. (Do not press button if light remains on
indicating a shorted capacitor) Discard capacitors that vary 20% from rating. For small start and run use “LO” range on
Ammeter.
8. (Optional) The Analyzer can be left on the job as an emergency substitute capacitor. Connect the Yellow and White
Leads to the leads that normally go from the systems wiring to the capacitor DO NOT PLUG THE ANALYZER IN, put
Master Switch on and set Capacitor Switch mFd needed. All other switches should be left off or in the center position.
SECTION F - TO TEST POTENTIAL RELAYS ONLY
1. Make sure Master Switch, Ammeter Switch, and Voltmeter Switch are off.
2. Put Ohmmeter Switch in relay position.
3. Turn volts control all the way down (counter clockwise)
4. Connect White Lead to relay terminal #1, Black Lead to #2, and the Red Lead to #3.
5. CONNECT ANALYZER TO 230 VOLT POWER SOURCE.
6. Turn Master Switch “ON” and set Voltmeter Switch to relay position. Relay light must come on. If no light points are
open, replace relay.
7. Increase volts until relay “picks up”. Make a note of the voltage before “pick up”. This indicates the “pick up” voltage.
If light remains on, points are frozen and relay must be replaced. If relay does not “pick up” at maximum rated volts,
the coil is bad and the relay must be replaced.
8. Decrease voltage until relay “drops out”. Make a note of voltage just before “drop out”. This indicates “drop out” volts.
Light must come back on when replay drops out. If Light remains on the points are frozen or sticky and relay must be
replaced.
9. Compare pick up and drop out voltages with the information supplied by the relay manufacturer.
SECTION G - 240 VOLT CAPACITOR INFORMATION
1. Units up to 2 hp use 25-80 mFd range.
2. Units of 1-1 hp use 85-145 mFd range.
3. Units over 1 hp use 150-200 mFd range.
SECTION H - RELAY WIRING INFORMATION
1. G.E. Relay
a. Lead from post #1 goes to “Start”
b. Lead from post #3 goes to “Run”
c. Other post is “Common”
2. Delco Relay
a. Lead from post #S goes to “Start”
b. Lead from post #M goes to “Run”
c. Other post is “Common”
thanks for the info
On paper it will say I learned HVAC at a university, but I'd say 75 % of what I know I learned from down to earth techs.
Great videos
A. This guy is a great teacher
B. This guy sounds like Matthew McConaughey! 😆
Is that the same guy in Pt. !? Doesn't look or sound like him. This guy is more mellow, but maybe b/c he doesn't have students with him in Pt. 2?
Hes been fixing refrigerators since long before anybody paid him to fix them
Definitely got some teacher genes
Awesome fix! What can you do if you do not have access to that machine?
First of all, thank you for th video. You are obviosly a good teacher. Next, without buying the expensive meter or even the other electrical pieces that you don't recommend, is there any way to reverse the compressor?
Generally to reverse motors you bead to reverse its input polarities ( switching the hot/neutral connection) I wonder if it’s possible to open up the compressor and manually do something too?
@@CB_ChaosLove hmmm 🤔. Me too! I need Annie to reverse mine I guess. Curious
The voltage control you were adjusting is for the step up transformer that is used to test a potential relay. It does not adjust the output voltage. You should have also held in the start momentary button when you turned on the reverse switch, not turn it on and then push the button, if you watch your amp meter you'll see why.
N.W.,-do you,by a chance,have the manual for A12? couldn't find it on the internet..Thanx
@@blev866 yep. I posted on my Facebook page
HELLO
HOW DO U REVERSE THE COMPRESSOR wiring manually?
Well you helped me a lot I just got ripped off bought me a real nice used wine cooler to use for pie display case will not start and it's got one of those relays like you were just showing I think it's burned up
My mini fridge has foam pieces around the copper tubes at the back around the compressor should those be removed like shown in the video or is it safe to keep it on. I also have little plastic covers for the flat ends of the tubes
thanks
Thanks for watching.
Great video, What’s the name of the machine used to reverse the compressor?
Edisonhvac,do you,by any chance have the booklet with the instructions on Annie A12? I'm getting mine in a week,but it didn't come with a booklet..all I could find on the internet were a couple of pages,including the schematics..thanx
I have a GE mini fridge that has the separate freezer,it can run great for a month or two then the compressor stops,so I can unplug the power cord and its all good again..any idea what it could be
I'd love to see a video of add/checking charge of a closed orifice system such as this mini fridge. Sometimes it will specify type of refrigerant and amount of charge but I've checked all over and nobody seems to have a video of it. Seems these units are viewed as disposable.
They are considered disposable. Most are R-134a refrigerant. No Schrader valves to add/remove/purge/vacuum/etc refrigerant. By the time you pay somebody to add those Schrader valves & to properly purge, vacuum, add refrigerant the labor cost itself is more than the couple hundred bucks these things cost.
Great video! Only some more close ups and light could improve the vidio. Thanks again!👍👍
Question, in the event you described, can you just replace the motor starting capacitor, and with perhaps a slightly larger capacitance one?
Not in MFD’s. There is a +/- tolerance and it’s small. Oversizing will damage the windings. Thanks
Hello, Just wanted to say great Video.
The meter your using I see it's a Fieldpiece is that a good meter? What is the model #, I'm looking for something decent to test compressor amp draw & also want to test capacitors on Appliance's along with HVAC Equipment.
I would also like to get more involved in testing capacitors on circuit boards in TV's & other small Electronics so would you be able to suggest something that can do all of the above or even if I need to meters like a champ meter & possibly just a separate capacitor tester by itself?
Right now I'm using a $20 Harbor Freight Clamp Muli meter & a Craftsman Digital/analog meter. I see harbor freight tools now sells Ames multi meter & I seen they have a decent clamp meter for $40
Please excuse my ignorance as I'm still learning. I am mechanically inclined as I've repaired car's for many years but I am really interested in appliance & TV/Electronics repair now too. Thank you very much & have a wonderful day!! 😃
All the best,
Ron.
Fieldpiece meters aren't cheap. If you're not doing High power devices you don't need to spend that much. If you want to consolidate instruments, find a clamp on multimeter with Inrush Current Reading, Voltage, Amperage, RESISTANCE AND CAPACITANCE capabilities. Maybe Temperature if you think you will need it. You can spend a lot of money on test equipment if you are inclined. TV and appliance repair is virtually extinct, unless you're a warranty servicer. It's cheaper to replace than repair now. Unless your just doing it for fun and education.
Is there any way to reverse the compressor without “annie”? Other fixes for a locked up compressor besides banging on it wirh a hammer?
Nice that it's running again, but WHY did the compressor lock up to begin with? It's sorta like the situation with a blown fuse/circuit breaker -- you replace/reset it, but then how do you know it's not going to just blow/flip again later? Need to find out the cause of the lock up.
I see we have interest in engineering here. The reason they lock up is moisture in the refrigerant lines, usually combined with not turning on the compressor in a while creating corrosion within the compressor.
If you don't have a hermetic analyzer, could you just hook up the fridge backwards to a car battery?
I tested with the Ohm and everything is fine, and I use Thermal Hemeti-check, then the compressor is wtill not run, but it start getting hot? Any ideal?
Because of your 2 great videos, I have deduced that my fridge also has a stuck compressor.
Bought an Annie A2 on eBay for a quarter of what the fridge cost me. Will report back when the Annie gets here.
how did it go?
Successful! Sold the fridge and it paid for the Annie and helped catch up on some vet bills from my aging doggy. Learned something new, cool tool, less stress. Win, win, win!
@@paultrahanjr.8217 awesome
What if the wire on the overload reads 0?
What about shinning some light inside the compressor compartment so one could see how to connect the Ammeter? Just describing it ain't enough! 1st part was very good! Thanks
Put the meter clamp around the black wire or the white wire. All current enters through the black (Hot) wire and leaves through the white(Neutral) wire. Either one should work.
Amp's are taken with the meter "clamp" around 1-single wire . In single phase (120v) either of the two will give you the same reading
Help me understand this...I always thought common was the least resistance reading followed by run being the middle and start with the highest resistance reading???
Common is the lead that is "common", i.e. connected to both the Start and Run windings. When you read S to R you are reading the resistance through both the Start and Run windings. R to C is just the resistance of the Run winding to the Common terminal which should be the lowest resistance as it is the larger gauge wire. The S to C terminal readin is the resistance of the Start winding which is thinner gauge wire since it is only supposed to draw its current for less than a second when starting before the Start Relay/Device removes it from the circuit. Since it is thinner wire with more windings it has higher resistance.
Makes wanna go fix fridges lol. I was wondering i have a little insignia 3.0 cu fridge its is hot on sides runs allot what might be reason.
Video 1 he said something about the coils being the reason the sides are hot. So assume it's nothing serious
Great video. Having similar problem with my mini fridge. Just installed a new Overload & Relay and the Overload got hot and broke (it rattles when shaken). So my remaining option is to install the Hard Starter. Where does the brown wire coming from the thermostat connect on the Hard Starter? Thanks.
+SAdozer that depends. What type of hard start are you using? Does it have two wires or 5? Also, is there a HP or Ton/Btu rating on the hard start?
edisonhvac it's a 5 wire Hard Starter rated for 1/12 to 1/5 HP. I haven't ordered it yet. Just wondering how the thermostat wires connect back to the system. Thanks!
+SAdozer there should be a diagram on the side of it to help. One of the wires coming from the stat (not the one from the power cord) ties to the start kit line wiring. The other line wire ties to the neutral from the plug (power cord) The other three would go to CSR on the compressor. Does this help?
@@edisonhvac I have subscribed, "CSR" was a break down of wiring made simple, Thanks
Very informative...
@edisonhvac great videos. Thank you.
What happens if compressor is getting too hot and tripping the overload. Capacitor/motor not jammed up, amperage doesn't change when overload clicks. Thoughts?
More than likely your Start "Relay" is bad and not making the motor start turning. So it sits there with current running through the Run winding until it overheats and the Thermal Overload device opens the circuit. Then when it cools it does it over and over again. Your Start device should read about 10 ohms or less. If it doesn't, replace it. About $10 for the part.
@@hjc4604 Thanks for your reply. I recently purchased this: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AKWWLVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thinking that the relay and overload were bad. When I shake the relay it rattles, which I've learned is a bad thing. But this rattled right out of the package, so I'm unsure if it is bad.
Is there a chance the compressor doesn't have freon? This mini fridge has been used on and off for the better part of 16 years.
@@nicholassullivan1180 @Nicholas Sullivan Not sure that I would rely on a rattle to check my components. An actual relay with contacts and a solenoid might rattle when shaken even if it's good. It's certainly possible that the refrigerant could have leaked out due to abuse or vibration. Usually you will find refrigerant oil at the point of the leak and dust will stick to it. The compressor label should show the Locked Rotor Amps (LRA) and the Running Load Amps (RLA) for comparison. If the compressor is locked it will show LRA amps,. When running normally it should read close to the RLA. If it's humming and the amps are below RLA it's probably not starting. Try comparing the ohms of the old start components to the new start components. Also what's the model of the fridge and the compressor? Is t a schematic available? Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/nx7l9kY2_bU/w-d-xo.html
if you're not seeing amperage go up the overload device could be warn out and tripping at lower than rated amperage. also your meter might not be fast enough to catch the amperage spike.
Good video if the captions didn't cover the video so much. Some things can't be seen due to the captions covering what you're trying to show.
can someone help by posting a wiring diagram of the famous Annie tester.. need it.
hit copm with a hammer to unstick works sometimes
good 'ol trusty hammer
Ehhh.... maybe a rubber mallet...
What kind of AMP meter would you recommend?
They are using in this video the fieldpiece sc620
Can a locked up compressor that has some how has now become unlocked and is cooling, become locked again in the future?
Yes.
Curios: can one rewire the sequence of "Can, She, Run" without using Annie ? some motors can be reverse wired. Thanx
Not for a refrigerant compressor. while the motor may run in reverse, the compressor part won't function right in reverse. And do you really want to rely on a motor you had to reverse momentarily to start it running.
@@hjc4604 hmmm, love the reply BUT asked if motor can be reversed wired just to get it unstuck, not to have it run in reverse forever. most of us have run into a situation of a stuck bolt, instead of forcing it counter clock wise, first hair tighten it to loosen it, then remove. i think my analogy sux must you get the point LOL. you sir get a thumbs up anyway
Very helpful video. I watched both Part 1 and 2. I replaced the relay and starter. When I turn on the thermostat I hear the relay click and the motor attempt to start and then stop. I also smell that electronic burnt smell afterwards. Based on watching your video I have the feeling that the compressor motor is frozen. My question is, without this Annie what other options do I have to get this mini-fridge working? I wonder if I can take this unit to some local electronics shop and see if they can try and shock it back to life. I found this min-fridge in a dumpster and it's in great shape physically. It still has the plastic protective wrap on the door and the sides! Am I wasting my time? Thanks
I have the same thing and the same question
Is it normal for a mini fridge compressor to get scalding hot? I’ve loaded a lot of water bottles in the refrigerator and wonder if it’s that’s the problem
High heat load requires more work and full capacity to remove the heat. Once satisfied it shouldn’t be the same amount of heat coming off the compressor or rejected at the condenser to maintain the temperature of the load.
I have a Mini Fridge, the Thermostat and Switch is fine. The Compressor runs but is hot to the touch, but it will not cool. It's a brand new fridge right out of the box. What could be the problem???
Low/no refrigerant or the compressor runs but does not pump due to an internal issue.
I was hoping to find a fox for my mini fridge here, but no luck. Lol. Mine does nothing.
Where do you order parts from?
We're are you guys located ?
Alexandria, VA.
I am trying to fix my dorm refrigerator, but having a hard time removeing the the cover of the overlay protector, can’t remove the metal around it. It would help if you showed more of the inside of the compartment.
savekwh Did you ever fix it? I’m having the exact same problem.
Pretty much i’m fucked i need a new one!! 😕
so how do you test for a inverter compressor?
You check inverters compressors with DC voltages, current and frequency at compressor terminals. Inverter compressors run on higher DC voltages of three phase emulated by inverting from AC. During inverting process the compressor speed and direction are easily controlled.
Shawn J
check power going to inverter if both inputs are good replace the inverter. 9 out of 10 times its the inverter. make sure you clean the coils
thats not how a capacitor works, the electricity does not jump from one side to another. they work more like a water accumulator, electricity goes in the common through the coil builds up then is pushed back through the coil. this happens 60 times per second. the capacitor size determines how much electricity is pushed through the coil which is why it determines the amperage.
My chest freezer having the same issue and already tried hard start kit and did not work 🙃 😑
you keep saying there is a capacitor. but in 99.9 percent of domestic refers there is no start capacitor.larger ones may have run capacitor but its not "removed from the circuit" as you say. it just uses a ptc or a coil relay. the annie however does have a start cap
@Michael W The fridge in the vid says made in China right on the back sticker.
@Michael W nevermind. I get what you said now. By domestic, maybe he meant household
Just need some good closeups
So basically this fancy machine just causes it to run backwards for a moment ?
Kind of like when you parking with your girl and you get stuck in the mud. You throw your car into reverse and back again to forward and with any luck be able to drive out, same principle right ? Yeah that sounds better than using a rubber hammer. But I bet that thing is expensive.
Yep, that's all it is... There's a reason they stopped making them 3-4 decades ago. With all the old school Refridgeration Repair guys retired or getting close and with a complete fresh line of younger people just getting into Refrigeration Repair these companies making the ANNIE all over again will target the youngsters who don't know better. It's been a growing marketing trend in the type industries just like bringing back the new Reel Lawn Mowers that are now dust collectors thrown into yard sales.
@@michaelwatts8052 While I agree the companies making equipment like the Annie (I have one) will target the younger people, HVAC techs make a lot more money swapping out compressors (for residential/commercial use, not these mini-fridges) than they would spending 10 minutes to unlock a compressor. The other thing is there is probably some reason the compressor got locked & thus it will probably happen again shortly down the road.
My mini fridge runs for half a day then shuts off. What can it be
T-Stat, overload on compressor from low refrigerant or winding opens when hot. Probably one of the last two. Good luck
I just typed the complete manual at a HVAC forum OLE!
hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?144397-Annie-A2-Hermetic-analyzer/page2
On refrigerators that cost over $1,000, why doesn't the manufacturer have this restart device built-in to the refrigerator? I can see how easily it could be implemented but I assume they won't because it will devalue you technicians.
Excellent teaching, but these kids seem a little dumb. Who ever is video taping should be getting right in there because we can't see anything. It might as well be radio. I would have liked to have seen how he hooked it up to see that it was locked up. I saw the first video. It seemed like some kind of clamp. How did the multimeter make contact with the wires and which ones?
Have you never heard of a light. Cant see a thing your doing
"From here to here...". But we can't see what connection he is touching. A shame, otherwise it coukd have been helpful.
on His defense the view is for His pupils, us seeing it or not is icing in the cake. but you can see the switch he was taking about. also helps when you have a compressor while viewing video. OLE!
If you don't have a hermetic analyzer, could you just hook up the fridge backwards to a car battery?