What’s interesting is that I have been getting conflicting values for torquing the oil drain bolt from various sources. From 19Nm to 42Nm. Do you think the 1/8 rotation is a better method? With that thread count, that’s about seven thousandths 0.007 inches of movement or compression. Sounds about right. Thanks for the great video.
The issue is, the 1250 service manual isn’t available so I’m not a technician and I just follow that quarter turn or so. Wish I could be more specific.
Yeah, you’re probably right. I was trying a different style this time around in an effort to make the videos shorter so instead of watching a guy turn a wrench, he’d just walk you through the steps. I’m not sure if it is better or not. My older videos that are identical steps do include more wrench turning.
Excellent how too! Services are very expensive and for someone mechanically inclined, this is easy. Is the warranty voided if you self preform the services ??
No issues with warranty so long as you keep good records. I take a photo of the oil bottle next to the odometer on my screen and save the oil receipt (I buy oil around the time I’m doing the change) then I add the oil change to MyCarFax with photos of the receipt which has date + odometer. So if there’s ever a question, I have receipts.
What size bolts we looking at for the front and rear drain bolts? I would like to invest in the better magnetic bolts as I just bought my 24 GS adventure today 😃
Hi, my advice since every bike can have some small differences is to call up MaxBMW and give them your VIN number. they can recommend the thread pattern. They carry all of these aftermarket high magnetism drain plugs and they're not too much more than just buying them blind on amazon.
Which is totally fine. Similar to BMW not requiring you lubricate the final drive splines at all but owners like me still do it. There’s really nothing wrong with going the extra mile if you want. Fully support from my end.
I'm curious why you did the oil change on the center stand while draining. You are leaving quite a bit of oil on each side by not leaning the bike on the side stand and then the other side. I learned this on my 12k service while doing the valves. I drained it like you did and was shocked when I took the covers off. I always drain on the side stand so ensure complete draining.
Just a personal preference. I've done it many ways and the amount of leftover oil is not really a big deal. Dealers and the service manual say to keep the bike on the center stand and this being a 600 mile service I was doing, I didn't want to sway the bike back and forth for 200 ML of oil.
What’s interesting is that I have been getting conflicting values for torquing the oil drain bolt from various sources. From 19Nm to 42Nm. Do you think the 1/8 rotation is a better method? With that thread count, that’s about seven thousandths 0.007 inches of movement or compression. Sounds about right. Thanks for the great video.
The issue is, the 1250 service manual isn’t available so I’m not a technician and I just follow that quarter turn or so. Wish I could be more specific.
Thanks for doing these videos, very informative and useful. To make them better would be nice to see more of the work done 😉👍
Yeah, you’re probably right. I was trying a different style this time around in an effort to make the videos shorter so instead of watching a guy turn a wrench, he’d just walk you through the steps. I’m not sure if it is better or not. My older videos that are identical steps do include more wrench turning.
Excellent camera work. Good, concise video!
Thank you. I try and for an amateur, feel pretty good about this one. I hope it helps someone.
Excellent how too! Services are very expensive and for someone mechanically inclined, this is easy. Is the warranty voided if you self preform the services ??
No issues with warranty so long as you keep good records. I take a photo of the oil bottle next to the odometer on my screen and save the oil receipt (I buy oil around the time I’m doing the change) then I add the oil change to MyCarFax with photos of the receipt which has date + odometer. So if there’s ever a question, I have receipts.
看了您的很多视频和帖子，关于750和1250的维护方面您还是有自己的经验的，致敬。FD油液加注口我以前用T40的工具打开，这是错误的，应该用6#内六角工具
Nice and thank you very much for the comment. Be well. Ride safe!
What size bolts we looking at for the front and rear drain bolts? I would like to invest in the better magnetic bolts as I just bought my 24 GS adventure today 😃
Hi, my advice since every bike can have some small differences is to call up MaxBMW and give them your VIN number. they can recommend the thread pattern. They carry all of these aftermarket high magnetism drain plugs and they're not too much more than just buying them blind on amazon.
相当好的视频节目，简洁清晰明了，我也在使用LIQUI MOLY RACE 5W40，也会使用MOTOREX 的5W40，都很好
Thank you. I agree that both Liqui Moly and Motorex are great oils.
Hmm. I guess I'm old school and want to get as much oil out as I can. I don't mind a little extra work for better results.
Which is totally fine. Similar to BMW not requiring you lubricate the final drive splines at all but owners like me still do it. There’s really nothing wrong with going the extra mile if you want. Fully support from my end.
I'm curious why you did the oil change on the center stand while draining. You are leaving quite a bit of oil on each side by not leaning the bike on the side stand and then the other side. I learned this on my 12k service while doing the valves. I drained it like you did and was shocked when I took the covers off. I always drain on the side stand so ensure complete draining.
Just a personal preference. I've done it many ways and the amount of leftover oil is not really a big deal. Dealers and the service manual say to keep the bike on the center stand and this being a 600 mile service I was doing, I didn't want to sway the bike back and forth for 200 ML of oil.
OEM skid plate for trip? Very confident, no?
You’ll have to wait for the May 10th video. I have a daily video until May 20th.