How-To Assemble a Rear Axleshaft
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I'll show you how to assemble a rear axleshaft. When you get an axleshaft new it will need to be assembled or if you just need to replace the bearings or seals, you'll need to know how to put it all back together. If you need to know how to remove the old bearing or seal watch this video first: • How-To Remove a Rear A...
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This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I like how you show how things can go wrong. Only a couple TH-camrs show the good and the bad in a video.
Thank you. I'm not s skilled mechanic but I did my front cv axles last summer and figured I could tackle the rear no problem. I didn't know what I was in for and ended up having to purchase an H-frame press from harbor freight but it was only $140. I still saved a ton of money doing them both myself and this was the only video I found on TH-cam with the answers I needed. Very appreciated.
Hey man, I'm currently replacing the axle bearings on my Holden (GM) Kingswood HZ and this is EXACTLY the video I needed. Thank you from Australia.
amazing timing I've got all new parts for my 44 coming, this vid will help with my first build!
I had to do the same process to replace a seal in my 1988 YJ with a Dana 35 rear axle the axle was leaking gear oil and it smells bad when it's heated up.
BleepinJeeps is awesome, keep up the good work Matt
Thank you bro for all your hard work... We learn a lot from your videos...I hope you get compensation some how. Keep up the good work. Keep them videos coming.
Thanks , I don't have a welder or a deep freezer big enough to put an axle in it. Good common sense and effort will work on most repairs. I echo the comment below I like to see things that went wrong and how you work through them. Good job!!
Tip: grind a cut into the old race to make it able to slide into the axle tube easily and then use it to hammer on to install the new race.
Ha I did learn something and I like that you included everything you tried - not just what ended up working the best. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video, I have a 76 cutlass dirt track car and my axle slipped out on me during a race. I have searched 8.5 10 bolt GM all over the Internet and this is the only video showing how it all goes together.
oven set to 100 deg C for a couple of hours would grow that collar and bearing enough to just drop it on.
Its prepacked with grease , A proper press would work fine.
The pipe method absolutely works, however, it is a long and tiring process (just went through this yesterday for the 2nd time in a couple of weeks). You'll need a pipe longer than the axle, and slightly wider in inside diameter. Oh... and a 5lb sledge hammer. Count on it taking anywhere from 10-20 minutes per side. One last thing.... Make sure that seal retaining plate has the inside ridge/lip pointing TOWARDS the seal (towards the inside/differential). Or you'll be doing it a second time like I did. :)
just a tip from an experience of mine doing similar job on a Ford 9inch axle. I had the pleasure of doing it twice because of seal leaks. When putting the seal on the shaft put some lube of some kind on the part of the seal that mates up to the shaft. When I put my seals on dry it damage the seal and created a leak.
Not a job I enjoyed doing twice since you have to destroy all the parts to remove them. Just my opinion and experience with this. Good video though.
Glad to find this tip, about to do mines soon these days, since I ran into a leak on my rear dif 🔧
That chain job was fun to watch... I'd like to see that plate drilled to accept a slide hammer and see how it compares...
I have used a slide hammer with just a hook to grab the race on one side.
Very helpful and appreciated. I used a slide hammer to easily pull the race out. Thanks again.
Did very well in explaining the steps, your video helped me so much !!
Very good video. Keeping it simple. I love it 👍
I really do enjoy the videos and learn a lot thanks man
some great tips matt, for those that dont have alot of tools,godbless
slide hammers work great. I had to replace the seal on my wife's 04 Cherokee and bought a slide hammer from harbor freight for cheap!
Tip press the bearing on first then the collar. Much easier. Use a slide hammer with a hook end. Snap on tools has a set up. Also the pipe can work if it is the right diameter and if it threaded pipe you can put a cap on the end and use a hammer if you don't have a press. Press is preferred.
"HOLY CRAP!!!" Yes, you would fit in well at our shop! Good video! 😁
Thanks a lot, good to see helpful Mechs.
Just a hot tip (and don't ask how I know this). When you're pressing the collar/bearing package on, be sure that the steel pieces pushing the collar on are NOT QUITE against the axle shaft. If not, you will damage the axle shaft where they press against the axle. Leave a little clearance so that they will still clear the shaft when they reach the part that is larger.
Thanks for your time, very helpful 👍
Great video. Thanks for posting. I find it best to press the old bearing on separately from it's retainer. Doing them separately, a pipe works with several smacks. I use the old cut off retainer as a free floating collar to protect the bearing from the pipe as it is driven down.
Nice work 👍
I appreciate the garage ingenuity! :-)
Nice video keep up the good work
Awesome man I have to do this myself this weekend
You can take your pipe and a floor jack find something low to pin it under and jack it up. I use my front porch.
I have a 2014 Nissan fronteir 4x4 with 4 wheel dis ,and looking to replace the rear axle bearings. But cant find any video that show me how to .can you help thanks .
What would you do if the tube was screwed up where the outer race was sitting?
Thanks mate ........good info
Do bearings usually come with collars? I bought the seal and the bearing for my wrangler tj Dana 44. Do i need to order the collar separately?
is there a c-clip eliminator for the 8.25 axle?
Always use the smaller hole!!! Great advice
Good video, some times the race gets left behind in the tube. I got a whole new set up axle shaft all assembled. New bearing looks different then when the old one is pulled out.
Very good and useful videos. How many tons is the hydraulic press that you are using in the video? Thanks. Leonel
great thank you for sharing my friend
i have used a torch to heat it up then an ice cube to shink. worked great
very helpful can you also make one for Nissan Frontier 2008 ,and 2015
Some help how is the right position to put the seal on a rear axle on a 04 Grand Cherokee
When changing a seal/bearing I just welded a piece of scrap to the inner race and pulled from there. The heat made it a bit easier to slide as well
good video !!!
Subscribed! 👍
I learned something, I need to get one of the Harbour Freight presses....
Hey Matt, All your videos are awesome. Appreciate the humors, hats, and disclaimers.
Question though. Why are the Bearing/seal/collar still attached to the axel when you pull it out? All other videos I've seen shows the axel sliding out and your left to slide hammer the small bits. Is it your year/model?
Great tutorial, it's funny cause you show things going wrong like everyone else has. You definitely should've had at least a pair of safety glasses on at 5:30 though, something could've gone wild there haha
What axles are you using for the crawler?
Also, keep the original color!
I learned something...TKS
What keeps the axle from just slipping out of the axle housing during normal driving when turning a corner hard? The retaining collar is only really only holding the bearing that's press fit on the axle shaft right? Cause there's no "C" clips holding the axle in the differential...I don't get it
Thank you !!
Another tip for removing bearing races that are scrap, lay a bead of weld on them. They'll pop right out.
I made a little slide hammer to take out seals etc. Would work on the race as well, just a little more control.
Hey,
I put everything new together on timken set-10 and have end play in-out of one axel. Did you face such situation? How to fix it?
That scrap metal with a dent puller would work well for the race.
The chain idea is a good idea for removing the tube race, but a bit dangerous. Would a pry bar get the job done? Great video, thanks for sharing!
very entertaining
Like a true weekend mechanic
How do you replace seals on a rear axle for a Hyundai Terraccan.
glad yu showed us how to do it the every guys garage style
I usually use hydraulic oil heated to 300-325 degrees soak the bearing and it will slide on. Also when removing that bearing race I normally use a blind hole pulled or just weld a small bead on the inside surface of the race and it will basically fall out of the axle tube.
Helpful seein as I'm about to swap to chromo shafts in the rear
next time put the retainer in the oven at 450 heat it up and it will slide right over the shaft
I did that with a pinion bearing on the pinion gear. I was surprise how easy it dropped on with room to spare!
My Dana 35 was way easier. Little c-clips and it slid out. The bearing and seal was pressed into the axle tube, not on to the axle. I used a cheap bearing puller to pry the seal and bearing out and a piece of pipe and a mallet to put the new ones on. Seemed easier than that bearing setup. What model axle is that setup from?
im not certain which axle hes got but im about to undertake this on my D35, my more knowledgable friend has told me this no c-clip setup is what they used in older D35s like my 90 yj and in D44s
Hey Matt great tutorial and just the advice I need. One question that puzzles me and I know you mentioned it kinda, but how do you know when it safe to stop pressing the bearing on? I know you said "when it stops", but is there a chance of pressing it on to much? Thanks.
-Pidge
+PiDGE IAM - you have to know your tools.... you can see it seat all the way down and you'll also feel the press giving more resistance than it was before.
FYI, learned this on axel two. You can buy axel shaft pressed, fully assembled at quadratec
how do you install the new race? just by tightening the axle back on the axle housing?
A little late possibly and I'm certainly no expert....after pressing my replacement bearing in backwards and having to cut the whole deal off again... but after u press the bearing (taper end facing pinion) and pressing ring (locking ring) race will slide off the end of the axle, set the race In the tube end of axle using a block and hammer with light taps, makes sure u leave the proper end out of axle tube .020 I believe. then install the axle. Use proper sealant as noted in other comments. been dealing with dyslexia for years haha....
I used a pipe wrench on my 65 Dodge bearing and collar. Tapped it with a hammer .
Nice. that's how it has to happen for most of us.
you should make a video on removing the yellowing on a headlight with mud
I need to do this. HF has a press for $99. How much would a shop charge to press it for me???
I'm doing this now we got it out today part's be here at 11am Sunday then back together I hope
What vehicle would have a front Dana 44 for an easy swap to a 2000 xj?
If you looking for a direct bolt in swap I think only a rubicon Dana 44 out of a 2003-2006 Wrangler Rubicon will work.
Good 🇩🇪👍
is there supposed to be lube between the race and the shaft?
+Dorian Sonneman - it may help to seat it but no it doesnt need to be
have you tried heating the bearing and freezing the shaft?
+Jacob Aaron harbor freight press=$120 , emptying a freezer worth of the wife's groceries= $priceless
When I pressed on the bearing and collar, a thin piece of metal ring shaving fell out. Is this normal or do you think it damaged and shouldn't be put in?
Hard to say from here, did you get it on crooked?
BleepinJeep . Turned out fine. Apparently it can happen per Revolution gear and axle.
How many tons is the press? Thanks
Alexander Vaughn 12t
Doing this on my D35 1988 YJ now… you press the collar and bearing down till it bottoms out? And the press won’t go anymore
yes, exactly
@@bleepinjeep your videos are awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
if you dont have a press put the axle in the freezer for a cuple of hours and the new bearing should slide on easy
Could also heat the bearings around 100 degree Celsius in a oil bath, metal expand and is much easier to fit.
Replaced a bad seal on my tj and still keeps leaking, what will be the problem?
axleshaft or housing could be warped... or perhaps you just scratched it or put it on backwards?
I put every thing new in my Dana 44 and it still leaks what do I do know
That's how its made... Sometimes the bearing enter smooth but this is a new axle...
Paul Dana 44 and early model 35s don't have C clips. This how the bearing is installed from the factory
Just a thought but if you tack weld that scrap to the race it would hold its self and also be heated. Might come out a lot easier
Or use a dremel and cut two slots in the race and use a hammer and punch and hammer it out
I replaced my bearing and seals in november and the damn thing started leaking again a month on one side. thank god for quadratecs warranty
how about putting back the axle?
yes, its difficult to put the axle back?
Bruh...
That chain and piece of metal is great for getting a face full of chain 🤣🤣🤣
i know another way to remove the bearing cup. if you weld about 1/2 long beads at four spots on the cups face where the bearing needles ride it will make its in side smaller. it will almost fall out then when you let it cool down. :)
sounds like a great idea. have you done it?
+Ron yes at work any time I need to remove a bearing that I can't get to the back side. works great
Ha I've rigged some stuff up like that before. Gotta love the press!
weld cup or weld you flar bar on race
The part with the chain is so funny I watched it a few times. But hopefully noone was behind you :)
Manuel Lecornu I loved that part.
c-clip eliminator kit? I kept thinking that with all this work, why are you not using a c-clip eliminator kit to secure your axel?
+Paul Gdry Rear Dana 44s (except for aluminum zj 44s) are non c-clip. That's why he installed an axle retainer plate.
did not know that.. thanks but that plate did look really weak and flimsy for the stresses that would be involved with pulling an axel off...
+Paul Gdry no c clips involved, and retainer plates don't fail, the stresses are not in that direction.
cool, can't wait to see you drive it..
I tried the pipe trick too. Didn’t work either.
Rad
I would have pressed the bearing on first then torched the collar, It will fall right down with ease? Just sayin...
Hey Matt, check out Ksuspension 's videos on xj mods. He has some great how to videos, he could be a great partner for BleepinJeep.
on a side note add weight to your hand like a heavy hammer wrapped with the chain next time... may make things easier
Please wear safety glasses when using a hydraulic press. If something breaks under pressure it can send high speed missiles everywhere.