Watched about seven bearing replacement videos and this one explained everything clearly. The only video anyone needs to watch. Thank you for making it.
Outstanding video - easily the best how-to video for R&R'ing a set of axle shaft seals on a rear semi-float Jeep axle 👍. I'm about to do this very process on a rear DynaTrac ProRock D60, which appears to be identical in nature.
This the best vidoe I have seen on the TH-cam on how to properly remove and reinstall the axel shats with new seals and bearings on the TJ. I am doing exactly that right now due to a bad seal. Thank you for this!
I have an 04 rubicon and was going to replace both the rear axles to chromoly because the drivers side was leaking. Well when I pulled the drivers side I noticed they already had chromoly shafts! So I went ahead and replaced the drivers side and left the passenger side since it’s the same axle and it wasn’t leaking! Hopefully this fixes my leak. But back to your video. You speak very clearly…. Repeat important steps which drives the importance HOME! Great job, I’m now a subscriber! Your videos are seriously invaluable!
Man that was a killer video just what I needed to see before tackling this job I’m doing on my 2003 Rubicon. I’m not replacing the axles but replacing the wheel studs which are too short for my wheel spacers. I now think I can do this but I’m not going to replace any bearings unless I have a problem later down the road. Thank you so much for sharing 👊🏼
Methodical, clear and extremely well explained. Your video quality is pretty professional. I especially enjoy (and agree) with the “measure twice, cut once” comment. Truly the only video to watch on how to assemble this. Thanx a million.
Great Instructional Video! I am so grateful when I find that you have done a video on a task that I have to do 🙂 I have to change the axle seal out on a 2006 LJ Rubicon and you just showed me Everything I needed to see. You totally eliminated the learning curve on this job! I Really Appreciate You!
Went thru this a week ago. Those axle shafts were really IN THERE. If they're stuck, a trick I saw from another video involves getting it to the point where you should be able to pull the shaft, and then put the rotor back on, backwards (inside out). Thread on a couple of lugs by a couple of threads, and then the rotor can be used as a slide hammer against the studs (making sure not to muck up the threads) to "unstuck" that sucker.
Working on a 2005 LJ. Needed a rear axle donor. Picked up a D44 out of a 1999 TJ with drum brakes. Tried swapping backing plates and axle shafts from the LJ. But it did not work like I’d hoped. After install of the 2005 axles and backing plates onto the 1999 donor axle. The rotors would make contact with the dust shield.
Fantastic video - thanks for taking the time to make this! Makes me want to try it out on my own Jeep, but even if I don't I'll at least know the process now!
Little suggestion form an aircraft mechanic, put a drop of super glue on the nut before you put it in the socket and it will hold it long enough to allow you to get it started on the stud
I just use a short socket and the nut doesn't fall out (most of the time lol). Then I switch to the torque wrench with a deep socket. I wouldn't have patience for super glue and I would get that crap all over myself more than the nut! Thank God I don't have to worry about my Jeep flying :-) That is a good tip for other areas where the nut might be prone to falling out though. Thanks.
Remember to use some oil when pressing your bearing and retaining wedding ring on. Just helps the press easier. Also on B.O.P. Buick Olds Pontiac if you scratch the seal surface area which is in front of the retaining wedding ring it will leak...Because you installed the parts on dry. Does not take much WD40 etc is fine. Good Video. Jim JD Race
Nut tip! Those lock nuts are crush nuts or staked nuts. Using a punch or chisel and a hammer you can re-stake them an revive the locking ability(At least once). It is essentially deforming the last thread or two. I try to mimic what was done at the factory IE 1, 2 or 3 steak points.
It has been years since I have replaced pressed bearings. Is there a reason why you don't use a bearing splitter with the press to press the retainer and bearing off?
Thanks . Just found your channel. I have rear play in the rear wheels and suspect I may have to do the bearings. Lugs are all tight but can wiggle the wheel a bit
Great video. Thorough & to the point at the same time. I am getting ready to do this work for a friend & was going to use the Set10 Timken bearing as well, but not sure what seal part # to use. I think the Timken part number for this is 9912S. Is that what you used? I watched, paused, squinted, but can't confirm that is what you used. 99% sure, but last thing I want to do is press on the wrong seal.
@@dennisthackrey6053 no, that would make it worse. Metal contracts when it's cold. Heating it up doesn't help in this situation either because you will still need a press. That retainer is an ultra tight fit and must be pressed on.
Great video! Super informative. When I grab my rear wheels and pull hard back and forth left to right, I have play. Not too much but noticeable. I guess my bearings/race are shot. The front wheels have no play
@@dansvlogtrucking the D44 is secured at the outside of the axle by 4 retaining bolts. The D35 is held in by a C clip in the center of the carrier. With a D35 you might feel just a tiny bit of in/out play but shouldn't feel side to side play. You shouldn't feel any play with the D44. If you have a D35, this video does not apply.
@@TheBFHGarage I intend to service the pumpkins this weekend and look further into the type of axles. I did the transmission and transfer case yesterday. Thanks again!
So hoqw many dremel cutter blades did you go through? LOL I'm happy if I make it to a smaller diameter before I have to change it. Thanks Well experienced Video.
The bearings are SET10 and the seals are 9912S. It's very important to use a reputable seal as they sit behind the bearing. If the seal leaks, you have to replace it all again.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you for your reply, I truly appreciate it.. I have a jeep yj 95 with dana 44 differential, I suppose it has the same axle shaft dimensions. Sorry for the naive question..
@@mtawheed that's a good question on the YJ. I don't believe they are the same so so some research! Been awhile since I've had my hands on one of those. Try @jeepsolid on TH-cam. He is all YJ stuff 👍
Yes, I've installed many. The studs need to have red loctite applied when installing them on the shaft (only on the threads that engage the flange) and then torqued down. I've not had the problem you've described. I always use brake clean on the studs and flange to remove any packing oil residue to ensure the loctite can work properly.
@TheBFHGarage thank you for the feedback. I appreciate that. I spoke to revolution yesterday, and I was told the JK USA axles aren't currently available, so I thought I'd drop a line about the India units. I've been watching your videos for a bit now and bought revolution gears based on how much you like the way they set up. Thank you again. Have a good day.
Hi, is there any note regarding end play of this axel or preload? I have some play (inside-outside) at one side after bearing replacement. I'm thinking to add a differential side bearing shim to get rid of this axel end play. What do you think?
Being that the axle is secured by a retaining plate, there should be no in/out play for a Dana 44. If you are running a Dana 35, then it is retained by a C clip and could have a slight amount of play. Either way, shims are not the answer.
@@TheBFHGarage I know that roller bearings should not have any play. But looking at construction of the axel DANA 44 and fact that spline end has no movement limiter, you can not cancel the play in bearing. There is no possibility to set up preload by retaining plate. It only secures the outer race and seal in their position and cancels the movement (rotation and in-out play) of them inside the tube. Inner race of bearing still has free play. Correct me, if I'm wrong. So my idea of adding shims gives me nothing and the bearings sooner (bigger wheels) or later (smaller wheels) die.
@@pomyslowypiotromir the bearing is on the shaft. The race is in the axle tube end. The entire shaft is held in by 4 nuts torqued to 45 ft/lbs creating the pre-load for the bearing.
@@TheBFHGarage "The race is in the axle tube end." - Yes, but only outer race is based in tube. "The entire shaft is held in by 4 nuts torqued to 45 ft/lbs creating the pre-load for the bearing." - In my opinion it is creating the pre-load via seal for outer race only. The shaft has free play (in-out) at spline end and bearing inside play. There is no base, wall, no force for inner bearing race working against pre-load from retaining plate.
Wow, that sucks, to have to replace the bearings and retainer just to swap out a seal. There must be some anxiety when the seal is finally drawn into place with the bolts. If you mess up you need to do it all again!
@The BFH Garage do you use a 12 or 20 ton? Last time I was at the local HF, the 12 looked really short, almost like my axle shaft would be too long. Also, I really appreciate your content. You have me thinking I just might be able to tackle a regear with some patience, and your videos!
can i heat the bearing retainer before pressing it? how much ton is youre press? mine is 20 ton like a harbor freight in think . will it be enough? thanks
No. The flange is too wide for most home type presses. In addition, I have a 20 ton press and that wasn't enough pressure to press a bearing and retainer on at the same time the one time I tried. The retainer is a slightly tighter fit than the bearing which really locks it in place. When you cut it off, it will break under the pressure whereas with the bearing you will need a cold chisel to break it.
ok sooo a buddy of mine slipped off the rocks sunday and slammed down hard on the front end,, its a TJ rubicon we finished the trail without issues however upon return to pavement he now has a very loud popping noise in the front end when he turns left or right ??? only when turning,,,,,, I am thinking perhaps a stub shaft broke??? any ideas???
@@bingobandit the bearing goes on fairly straightforward but the retainer is certainly tight. It is common to see a slight amount of metal splinters when doing it.
Hey boss I have a dana 35 27 spliner on my 99 Tj Can you tell me why most axle shafts i find are 29.04 inches And i found one saying 46 inches long. Isnt it just one measure?
@@kmern6979 what you are seeing as it relates to 35 spline is an upgrade in strength. If you do that you have to have both shafts and locker in 35 spline. I beat the crap out of my TJ and I only have 30 spline
@@kmern6979 if you plan on converting to disc brakes in the rear, you'll have to swap to a new retainer plate on the shafts. The drums use a flat plate whereas the disc have a big lip on them. This will require new bearings and seal too since you'll have to cut it all off to get the retaining plate on there.
Ok, I just subscribed to your awesome channel now and was intrigued about it all. I have 1993 Jeep GC( ZJ) with 200k & rear drums, 35 Dana rear-end. The axle seal is shot & planning on doing the bearings also( but still ok tho) I have read many comments, and you said this video doesn't pertain to the Dana 35 application. I know I have to do the C clip process, but what would be so different on the bearing, seal, etc. processes? If it's too much to explain, is there a video that you've come across for my particular application here? Hopefully, you may answer to my questions. Thx so much, Todd R.
@The BFH Garage Thx much for clearing that up. Also, how do I go about ordering the right Timken Parts kit for my actual application? Thx sooo much for your help. New to this!
I have had great luck using Summit Racing. There are too many fakes on Amazon so I don't trust it at all. Summit is always genuine parts and fast shipping.
@@TheBFHGarage I just did the right axle shaft bearing on my amc eagle bc the bearings was roaring and found out after looking up info on Mitchell that only one side has a bearing shim on the axle tube. I searched for half a day for a shim that doesn't exist 😆
You could make this video title generic. What you walked us though is the same process for a 1971 Buick 8.5' 10 bolt rear axle. Bearing is slightly different but same removal process.
@@stevegranger818 They are not normal size nuts but I'm not sure if they are considered low profile either. Another option is to just get grade 8 at your local hardware store and use those. You will have to grind down one side of the bolt head in order for it to fit into the flange. This must be done since they are positioned so close to the axle tube. The bolts that are in there now will pop right out with a tap of a hammer.
@@TheBFHGarage how long are e bolts? If you dn't know, thats ok. I'll find out soon enough. Thanks for the awesome video. This will be added to my reference library for sure.
Did your Seal have a little round spring in the inside...it seems like no one mentions it..The reason why it's important to me is because i am putting the second axel in now..And i just noticed that "Spring was in this Seal" But wasn't in the first Seal i previously completed...NOW i believe I have to pull the first axle back out and redo it because it's going to leak without that spring. I asked O'Reilly's if they gave me a different seal this time..He said No.. I gave you the same one why do you ask?? I explained my first seal does not have a ring it and the new one does..the one you just gave me does..He said no that's absolutely going to leak You're going to have to take it back out and I'll get you another one So I'm thinking this completely sucks .. I looked at all the videos online I could find and no one mentions this. So if you get the seal and the spring is not in it for some reason or other.. You don't even know it's supposed to be there..I was going to do a whole video just so somebody didn't have to go through this But I saw your video it's pretty instructive I thought maybe if I put the text it might help somebody or if you find it as important as I do maybe you could mention in your description Because I'm telling you it sucks to me right now lol...I hope this helps someone:) Thanks for the video you did a great job
Yes the seal should have a small spring that goes around the part of the seal that makes contact with the axle shaft. That spring applies just enough tension to keep the seal "sealed" against the axle shaft. Pinion seals are the same way.
Thx much for that info about the spring. Watched on another video that he also packs the seal with Transmission Assembly Lube, where the spring may slip off from a dry assemble.
Patience is key! If it gets stuck on the way out, tap it back in and start over. I twist as I am pulling it out and it seems to make a difference of it getting hung up or not. Even then there are still the ones that are a pain.
Kinda sucks they are side specific unlike a Ford 8.8 but I guess if you snap one maybe you could limp home or to the highway at least. AAA won't tow off road lol.
The Dana 44's are held in at the end of the axle tube by four retaining nuts. You could break a shaft and still drive it with the axle shaft not falling out of the tube like a Dana 35. I would still try to get the broken part out of the diff. If you carry an extra short shaft, it can work on both sides in a pinch and you can continue to wheel for the day. Install chromoly axles and forget about it. And unlike an 8.8, a Dana 44 doesn't hang as low and catch all the rocks. Did I mention the offset pinion of the 8.8 is less desirable too? Or was it that the 8.8 on a TJ is 5/8" narrower on both sides which is also undesirable.... :-) :-) :-) BUT, it is a good enough option when you can't find a D44. But then again, I would probably do a Super 35 instead.
@@TheBFHGarage yeah I won't be doing an 8.8 swap. If I change it will be a Currie 60. Good to know on the short shaft. We just had a guy break a new chromoly axle on his WJ with Dodge axles.
@@submarineaz It's all about money! I'd love a Currie 60 if I was on 40's. But I typically build for 35's. A 60 is not required and although stronger, hangs lower than the Dana 44. That's partly why I made this channel, to help others make good informed decisions on building a trail capable rig that fits what you are looking to run as a rig. Anyone can break an axle with enough skinny pedal and big tires. Depends on where and how you wheel too. 👍👍
There are alternative methods for the bearing such as heating it and using a pipe, however, the retainer is the bigger issue. Yeah, maybe you can do it without a press, but I'd prefer to ensure it's seated all the way therefore a press is the best (not only) option for that reason. 🤡
This is the type of video we’re all looking for on TH-cam! Thanks!
This video allowed me to plan out installing new axle shafts before going to work. Everything is so clear.
By far the MOST comprehensive guide I've ever seen for the rear TJ D44. Thank you.
There are times I see a video on the youtube and think to myself, I could hang out and drink a cold one with this guy. Great video.
Come on over😎😁
@@TheBFHGarage I’m in the Houston TX area. If you was close I would and I’d buy. 👍
Watched about seven bearing replacement videos and this one explained everything clearly. The only video anyone needs to watch. Thank you for making it.
24:49 HANGING A HEAVY CALIPER W SHOES FROM A RUBBER HOSE? GTFO. VERY CARELESS. Idiotic to do that. And he says that is good.
Outstanding video - easily the best how-to video for R&R'ing a set of axle shaft seals on a rear semi-float Jeep axle 👍. I'm about to do this very process on a rear DynaTrac ProRock D60, which appears to be identical in nature.
This the best vidoe I have seen on the TH-cam on how to properly remove and reinstall the axel shats with new seals and bearings on the TJ. I am doing exactly that right now due to a bad seal. Thank you for this!
I'm glad this video helped you out!
I just got done doing this same thing watching his tutorial! Same the best on TH-cam
I have an 04 rubicon and was going to replace both the rear axles to chromoly because the drivers side was leaking. Well when I pulled the drivers side I noticed they already had chromoly shafts! So I went ahead and replaced the drivers side and left the passenger side since it’s the same axle and it wasn’t leaking! Hopefully this fixes my leak. But back to your video. You speak very clearly…. Repeat important steps which drives the importance HOME! Great job, I’m now a subscriber! Your videos are seriously invaluable!
Man that was a killer video just what I needed to see before tackling this job I’m doing on my 2003 Rubicon. I’m not replacing the axles but replacing the wheel studs which are too short for my wheel spacers. I now think I can do this but I’m not going to replace any bearings unless I have a problem later down the road. Thank you so much for sharing 👊🏼
Methodical, clear and extremely well explained. Your video quality is pretty professional.
I especially enjoy (and agree) with the “measure twice, cut once” comment. Truly the only video to watch on how to assemble this. Thanx a million.
Very nice exploration and information the parts made in Mexico,USA & Canada are ISO 9001 Certification (Timken always have higher quality than O.E ).
One of the best "How To" videos I have ever seen. I have a TJ, so I definitely saved this video.
24:49 HANGING A HEAVY CALIPER W SHOES FROM A RUBBER HOSE? GTFO. VERY CARELESS. Idiotic to do that. And he says that is good.
Great Instructional Video! I am so grateful when I find that you have done a video on a task that I have to do 🙂 I have to change the axle seal out on a 2006 LJ Rubicon and you just showed me Everything I needed to see. You totally eliminated the learning curve on this job! I Really Appreciate You!
Great to hear! Thanks
Seriously appreciate all of your videos! Great detailed explanation!
Your Videos are very detailed and contains much information. I really appreciate watch them. Your Chanel should have more followers. Nice work 👍
Went thru this a week ago. Those axle shafts were really IN THERE. If they're stuck, a trick I saw from another video involves getting it to the point where you should be able to pull the shaft, and then put the rotor back on, backwards (inside out). Thread on a couple of lugs by a couple of threads, and then the rotor can be used as a slide hammer against the studs (making sure not to muck up the threads) to "unstuck" that sucker.
I use that trick all the time!
Great video, I'm really impressed your wearing a white shirt and not destroying it
That was an easy job and not too dirty. I have destroyed many shirts lol.
Working on a 2005 LJ. Needed a rear axle donor. Picked up a D44 out of a 1999 TJ with drum brakes. Tried swapping backing plates and axle shafts from the LJ. But it did not work like I’d hoped. After install of the 2005 axles and backing plates onto the 1999 donor axle. The rotors would make contact with the dust shield.
Fantastic video - thanks for taking the time to make this! Makes me want to try it out on my own Jeep, but even if I don't I'll at least know the process now!
24:49 HANGING A HEAVY CALIPER W SHOES FROM A RUBBER HOSE? GTFO. VERY CARELESS. Idiotic to do that. And he says that is good.
Thanks for this video! I feel confident about doing this job now.
Great video. Your videos have saved me a ton of dough. Much appreciated.
That's the whole point! Glad it's helping you out!
Hey this guy knows what I'm talking a
bout
Great thorough video! Thanks!
Thank you for your videos they are very informative
The SKF 18731 is by far the best axle seal money can buy. The entire OD is rubber coated, not just a small rubber ring like the one in the video.
Little suggestion form an aircraft mechanic, put a drop of super glue on the nut before you put it in the socket and it will hold it long enough to allow you to get it started on the stud
I just use a short socket and the nut doesn't fall out (most of the time lol). Then I switch to the torque wrench with a deep socket. I wouldn't have patience for super glue and I would get that crap all over myself more than the nut! Thank God I don't have to worry about my Jeep flying :-) That is a good tip for other areas where the nut might be prone to falling out though. Thanks.
That really was a great video, thank you Sir!
Remember to use some oil when pressing your bearing and retaining wedding ring on. Just helps the press easier. Also on B.O.P. Buick Olds Pontiac if you scratch the seal surface area which is in front of the retaining wedding ring it will leak...Because you installed the parts on dry. Does not take much WD40 etc is fine. Good Video.
Jim
JD Race
I put on a really thin layer of grease👍
Best video I’m working on a ford 9 inch better knowledge than the other videos
Nut tip! Those lock nuts are crush nuts or staked nuts. Using a punch or chisel and a hammer you can re-stake them an revive the locking ability(At least once). It is essentially deforming the last thread or two. I try to mimic what was done at the factory IE 1, 2 or 3 steak points.
Great video 👍 very thorough
Very detailed, excellent, thanks 👍
awesome video man. keep it up and thank you.
Thanks! That means a lot!
super helpful. thanks man!
Great detail
Great video! Thank you
Awesome details. Thx man ✌️
very well spoken and informative! i have a wj either bent axel and i have to replace it so this is helping me out a ton! Thanks!! btw i just subbed!!
It has been years since I have replaced pressed bearings. Is there a reason why you don't use a bearing splitter with the press to press the retainer and bearing off?
Thanks! That's an awesome vid!
Thanks . Just found your channel. I have rear play in the rear wheels and suspect I may have to do the bearings. Lugs are all tight but can wiggle the wheel a bit
Open it up and take a look...
Great video,thanx;))
Definitely use any available Dana/Spicer branded parts for a Dana axle. From experience, it just seems to make the job easier.
Dana is excellent but expensive!
Super helpful.
Great video. Thorough & to the point at the same time. I am getting ready to do this work for a friend & was going to use the Set10 Timken bearing as well, but not sure what seal part # to use. I think the Timken part number for this is 9912S. Is that what you used? I watched, paused, squinted, but can't confirm that is what you used. 99% sure, but last thing I want to do is press on the wrong seal.
Yes, 9912S is correct👍
I broke a shaft what a pain. I ended just swapping in a dana 35 because it was cheaper than rebuilding the 44a.
Would there be any advantage if you put the bearing and retainer in the freezer overnight?
@@dennisthackrey6053 no, that would make it worse. Metal contracts when it's cold. Heating it up doesn't help in this situation either because you will still need a press. That retainer is an ultra tight fit and must be pressed on.
Great video! Super informative. When I grab my rear wheels and pull hard back and forth left to right, I have play. Not too much but noticeable. I guess my bearings/race are shot. The front wheels have no play
Which rear-end do you have?
@@TheBFHGarage Not sure yet. O6 Wrangler sport is all I know so far. Assuming it is still all stock
@@dansvlogtrucking the D44 is secured at the outside of the axle by 4 retaining bolts. The D35 is held in by a C clip in the center of the carrier. With a D35 you might feel just a tiny bit of in/out play but shouldn't feel side to side play. You shouldn't feel any play with the D44. If you have a D35, this video does not apply.
@@TheBFHGarage I will have to get under there and see if I can see the 4 bolts. I appreciate the info
@@TheBFHGarage I intend to service the pumpkins this weekend and look further into the type of axles. I did the transmission and transfer case yesterday. Thanks again!
So hoqw many dremel cutter blades did you go through? LOL I'm happy if I make it to a smaller diameter before I have to change it. Thanks Well experienced Video.
Depending on which ones you use, they can go fast!
Thank you very much! A great video indeed. would you just tell us the timken part numbers of the seal, bearing and retainer?
The bearings are SET10 and the seals are 9912S. It's very important to use a reputable seal as they sit behind the bearing. If the seal leaks, you have to replace it all again.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you for your reply, I truly appreciate it.. I have a jeep yj 95 with dana 44 differential, I suppose it has the same axle shaft dimensions. Sorry for the naive question..
@@mtawheed that's a good question on the YJ. I don't believe they are the same so so some research! Been awhile since I've had my hands on one of those. Try @jeepsolid on TH-cam. He is all YJ stuff 👍
Nice video! Would you address the E Brake at all while all is opened up? What are you torqueing everything to?
I inspect the parts and only address something if it needs it. The 4 retaining nuts get torqued to 45 ft/lbs.
What was the reason for replacing these axle shafts?
Upgrade in strength. Stock to chromoly.
Hi, have you used revolution india made axles? Thoughts on them? Any issues with the screw in studs backing out while tightening lug nuts? Thank you.
Yes, I've installed many. The studs need to have red loctite applied when installing them on the shaft (only on the threads that engage the flange) and then torqued down. I've not had the problem you've described. I always use brake clean on the studs and flange to remove any packing oil residue to ensure the loctite can work properly.
@TheBFHGarage thank you for the feedback. I appreciate that. I spoke to revolution yesterday, and I was told the JK USA axles aren't currently available, so I thought I'd drop a line about the India units. I've been watching your videos for a bit now and bought revolution gears based on how much you like the way they set up.
Thank you again. Have a good day.
Hi, is there any note regarding end play of this axel or preload? I have some play (inside-outside) at one side after bearing replacement. I'm thinking to add a differential side bearing shim to get rid of this axel end play. What do you think?
Being that the axle is secured by a retaining plate, there should be no in/out play for a Dana 44. If you are running a Dana 35, then it is retained by a C clip and could have a slight amount of play. Either way, shims are not the answer.
@@TheBFHGarage I know that roller bearings should not have any play. But looking at construction of the axel DANA 44 and fact that spline end has no movement limiter, you can not cancel the play in bearing. There is no possibility to set up preload by retaining plate. It only secures the outer race and seal in their position and cancels the movement (rotation and in-out play) of them inside the tube. Inner race of bearing still has free play. Correct me, if I'm wrong. So my idea of adding shims gives me nothing and the bearings sooner (bigger wheels) or later (smaller wheels) die.
@@pomyslowypiotromir the bearing is on the shaft. The race is in the axle tube end. The entire shaft is held in by 4 nuts torqued to 45 ft/lbs creating the pre-load for the bearing.
@@TheBFHGarage "The race is in the axle tube end." - Yes, but only outer race is based in tube. "The entire shaft is held in by 4 nuts torqued to 45 ft/lbs creating the pre-load for the bearing." - In my opinion it is creating the pre-load via seal for outer race only. The shaft has free play (in-out) at spline end and bearing inside play. There is no base, wall, no force for inner bearing race working against pre-load from retaining plate.
@@pomyslowypiotromir the axle shaft bearing race does back up to a lip which keeps it in place. Maybe I'm just not understanding your thought process?
So, I have not done a previous job, what do I use?
I'm not sure what your question is...
Wow, that sucks, to have to replace the bearings and retainer just to swap out a seal. There must be some anxiety when the seal is finally drawn into place with the bolts. If you mess up you need to do it all again!
@The BFH Garage do you use a 12 or 20 ton? Last time I was at the local HF, the 12 looked really short, almost like my axle shaft would be too long. Also, I really appreciate your content. You have me thinking I just might be able to tackle a regear with some patience, and your videos!
20 ton
@@TheBFHGarage thanks! I'll keep my eyes peeled on the used market!
im working on a 77 jeep is it the same thing?
Pretty much. Your ball bearing count may differ.
I got my kit and the plate has no lip. Is the lip on the plate for a specific jeep model? thank you
The lip is for axles that have disc brakes. If you have fun brakes then you are fine👍
can i heat the bearing retainer before pressing it?
how much ton is youre press? mine is 20 ton like a harbor freight in think . will it be enough?
thanks
No need to heat retainer. Your 20 ton press will be fine. Press the bearing first and then the retainer. Don't press them at the same time.
Are all Dana 44 us the same bearings? I have a 1962 f100 that has a dana 44. Thanks.
No not all use the same. I have no idea what a 1962 truck would use.
WHat size is the NUt or socket on the backing plate?????
On a TJ it's 9/16".... Other models are different.
Can you just use a shop press placed on the retaining plate to press everything off?
No. The flange is too wide for most home type presses. In addition, I have a 20 ton press and that wasn't enough pressure to press a bearing and retainer on at the same time the one time I tried. The retainer is a slightly tighter fit than the bearing which really locks it in place. When you cut it off, it will break under the pressure whereas with the bearing you will need a cold chisel to break it.
ok sooo
a buddy of mine slipped off the rocks sunday and slammed down hard on the front end,, its a TJ rubicon
we finished the trail without issues however upon return to pavement he now has a very loud popping noise
in the front end when he turns left or right ??? only when turning,,,,,, I am thinking perhaps a stub shaft broke???
any ideas???
Look at the u joints in the axle shafts.
@@TheBFHGarage yeah thats what i was thinking also
we just replaced them right before this last trip thanks for quik response
I have access to an auto shop where I live, when I pressed my race on, the gauge showed 6000# of pressure, that's a lot!
@@bingobandit the bearing goes on fairly straightforward but the retainer is certainly tight. It is common to see a slight amount of metal splinters when doing it.
I want to ask you if it fits the seale Wrangler 2020 Jl?
I do not know if this seal will work on a JL.
@@TheBFHGarage ok. thank you so much...
Great video! Around how many miles should these be replaced ? Until failure?
Yeah most of the time people wait until they fail. If you want to be proactive, you can change them whenever. I've seen these go 150k.
@@TheBFHGarage nice, okay cool. My 05 TJ has 111k miles with 31’s on so far and was curious. Fantastic video, I need a press lol.
Do you have a part numbers for the bearings and seals
Set 10 bearings and a 9912S seal. Timken and Spicer
Hey boss
I have a dana 35 27 spliner on my 99 Tj
Can you tell me why most axle shafts i find are 29.04 inches
And i found one saying 46 inches long.
Isnt it just one measure?
The length is the same. Not sure what you were looking at that showed 46"...
Thanks for not being a jerk bro
This helps
I wasn’t when i first texted you but i am now 😆
Beers on me from costa rica
@@12faviker haha I misread your question the first time, my bad 😂
On a 04' LJ with dana 44 rear, how can I determine axle spline size before I disassemble so I can order axles?
If they are stock axles, then the Dana 44 had 30 splines.
@@TheBFHGarage Appreciate the info, I have found sources showing both 30 & 35.... Plan to upgrade them as well as all new discs on 4 corners
@@kmern6979 what you are seeing as it relates to 35 spline is an upgrade in strength. If you do that you have to have both shafts and locker in 35 spline. I beat the crap out of my TJ and I only have 30 spline
@@kmern6979 if you plan on converting to disc brakes in the rear, you'll have to swap to a new retainer plate on the shafts. The drums use a flat plate whereas the disc have a big lip on them. This will require new bearings and seal too since you'll have to cut it all off to get the retaining plate on there.
Ok, I just subscribed to your awesome channel now and was intrigued about it all. I have 1993 Jeep GC( ZJ) with 200k & rear drums, 35 Dana rear-end. The axle seal is shot & planning on doing the bearings also( but still ok tho) I have read many comments, and you said this video doesn't pertain to the Dana 35 application. I know I have to do the C clip process, but what would be so different on the bearing, seal, etc. processes? If it's too much to explain, is there a video that you've come across for my particular application here? Hopefully, you may answer to my questions. Thx so much, Todd R.
The bearings on a Dana 35 are pressed into the tube where on the 44 they are on the axle shaft.
@The BFH Garage Thx much for clearing that up. Also, how do I go about ordering the right Timken Parts kit for my actual application? Thx sooo much for your help. New to this!
@@toddrhine7648 do like everyone else and look it up based on your model and year😁
@The BFH Garage Sorry, but I'm not like everyone else on looking things up on a computer!
@@toddrhine7648 try going to rock auto.... Easy look up there
Having a hard time finding Timken bearings and seal kits for my 04 Rubicon can you help
I have had great luck using Summit Racing. There are too many fakes on Amazon so I don't trust it at all. Summit is always genuine parts and fast shipping.
Do You Need A 20 ton press or can used a 10 ton.
A 10 ton will work but be sure to press the bearing and bearing retainer separately.
do you know what size those stove nuts are ?
3/8-24. 9/16" socket to get them off.
Do a video on an amc 15/ model 35
If I come across one I will👍
@@TheBFHGarage I just did the right axle shaft bearing on my amc eagle bc the bearings was roaring and found out after looking up info on Mitchell that only one side has a bearing shim on the axle tube. I searched for half a day for a shim that doesn't exist 😆
@@invitedvessel5946 I would have never guessed! The things you learn!
You could make this video title generic. What you walked us though is the same process for a 1971 Buick 8.5' 10 bolt rear axle. Bearing is slightly different but same removal process.
Is the Wrangler TJ 1999 the same thing...? You don't have to open the middle like a Chevy???
Depends on whether you have a Dana 35 or a Dana 44. Dana 35 has C clips which require you to open the diff cover. The Dana 44 does not.
Thanks for your quick response and how do i know by the hole in the axel ??? Right?
@@caciqueguerrero2364 A dana 35 is more oval and has a rubber fill plug. A dana 44 looks like an apple on its side and has a metal fill plug.
if you heat the wedding ring it goes on easier to 250 f
🥇
Thank you for the comment!
Still don't know how to remove the axle on a limited slip because there's no c clip
What year jeep? Which axle?
What size are the one-time nuts?
They are a 3/8 x 24 but I believe they are discontinued.
@@TheBFHGarage One more question... are they standard height nuts or low profile?
@@stevegranger818 They are not normal size nuts but I'm not sure if they are considered low profile either. Another option is to just get grade 8 at your local hardware store and use those. You will have to grind down one side of the bolt head in order for it to fit into the flange. This must be done since they are positioned so close to the axle tube. The bolts that are in there now will pop right out with a tap of a hammer.
@@TheBFHGarage how long are e bolts? If you dn't know, thats ok. I'll find out soon enough. Thanks for the awesome video. This will be added to my reference library for sure.
@@stevegranger818 the bolt shaft measures exactly 1" not including the head.
Where from you
Colorado
You obviously have made many mistakes because you have covered everyone I have made
Making mistakes is how we all learn! I started this channel to help others keep their mistakes to a minimum!
Did your Seal have a little round spring in the inside...it seems like no one mentions it..The reason why it's important to me is because i am putting the second axel in now..And i just noticed that "Spring was in this Seal" But wasn't in the first Seal i previously completed...NOW i believe I have to pull the first axle back out and redo it because it's going to leak without that spring.
I asked O'Reilly's if they gave me a different seal this time..He said No.. I gave you the same one why do you ask?? I explained my first seal does not have a ring it and the new one does..the one you just gave me does..He said no that's absolutely going to leak You're going to have to take it back out and I'll get you another one So I'm thinking this completely sucks ..
I looked at all the videos online I could find and no one mentions this. So if you get the seal and the spring is not in it for some reason or other.. You don't even know it's supposed to be there..I was going to do a whole video just so somebody didn't have to go through this But I saw your video it's pretty instructive I thought maybe if I put the text it might help somebody or if you find it as important as I do maybe you could mention in your description Because I'm telling you it sucks to me right now lol...I hope this helps someone:) Thanks for the video you did a great job
Yes the seal should have a small spring that goes around the part of the seal that makes contact with the axle shaft. That spring applies just enough tension to keep the seal "sealed" against the axle shaft. Pinion seals are the same way.
Thx much for that info about the spring. Watched on another video that he also packs the seal with Transmission Assembly Lube, where the spring may slip off from a dry assemble.
How come I can't ever get lucky enough to have a race just wiggle out....I inevitably always fight it with a slide hammer for an hour...... 😒
Patience is key! If it gets stuck on the way out, tap it back in and start over. I twist as I am pulling it out and it seems to make a difference of it getting hung up or not. Even then there are still the ones that are a pain.
Just did mine on a ‘99! WJ and those races are finger loose. No puller needed.
could have removed the brakepads so would have had room for your fingers ;-) But over all nice Vid !
No need to take the brake pads off. It is easier than I made it out to be lol.
Kinda sucks they are side specific unlike a Ford 8.8 but I guess if you snap one maybe you could limp home or to the highway at least. AAA won't tow off road lol.
The Dana 44's are held in at the end of the axle tube by four retaining nuts. You could break a shaft and still drive it with the axle shaft not falling out of the tube like a Dana 35. I would still try to get the broken part out of the diff. If you carry an extra short shaft, it can work on both sides in a pinch and you can continue to wheel for the day. Install chromoly axles and forget about it. And unlike an 8.8, a Dana 44 doesn't hang as low and catch all the rocks. Did I mention the offset pinion of the 8.8 is less desirable too? Or was it that the 8.8 on a TJ is 5/8" narrower on both sides which is also undesirable.... :-) :-) :-) BUT, it is a good enough option when you can't find a D44. But then again, I would probably do a Super 35 instead.
@@TheBFHGarage yeah I won't be doing an 8.8 swap. If I change it will be a Currie 60. Good to know on the short shaft. We just had a guy break a new chromoly axle on his WJ with Dodge axles.
@@submarineaz It's all about money! I'd love a Currie 60 if I was on 40's. But I typically build for 35's. A 60 is not required and although stronger, hangs lower than the Dana 44. That's partly why I made this channel, to help others make good informed decisions on building a trail capable rig that fits what you are looking to run as a rig. Anyone can break an axle with enough skinny pedal and big tires. Depends on where and how you wheel too. 👍👍
@@TheBFHGarage yeah Currie has high pinion Dana 60's that have even more clearance than a 44 and include a skid plate but yes they are not cheap.
24:49 HANGING A HEAVY CALIPER W SHOES FROM A RUBBER HOSE? GTFO. Class C mechanic Mistake.
Yes, really.
@@TheBFHGarage Very intelligent.. LOL..
Great video but I always support those calipers. Old habit from an old man.
Pads.
Get the hell out of here. ITS THAT EASY?!?! Oh man I’m doing that myself then….
Take this video down! You do NOT take a cutting wheel and chisel anywhere near that axle. You press it off!
@@matthewgross7698 🤦🙄🤡
Definitely don’t need a press🤦♂️🤡
There are alternative methods for the bearing such as heating it and using a pipe, however, the retainer is the bigger issue. Yeah, maybe you can do it without a press, but I'd prefer to ensure it's seated all the way therefore a press is the best (not only) option for that reason. 🤡