Thank you so much for your videos, Ian. I made the arrows yesterday and went shooting today. I used 2" vanes attached by a jig and super glue. 40 yard test, while standing, leaning on my truck (not very steady) gave me 3" group. I am happy!!! I used electric tape instead of the masking, as you did. It seems to work nicely.
albertqss cool I'm using Gorilla super glue it's working great for me. wipe the arrow with 91% alcohol will help them stick. also just super glued the inserts in having no issues whatsoever. I wipe the dust out and scratched the inside a little bit before I glue in the nock. I like to put a helical Twist on everything and I'm using feathers mostly because that's what I've already got plus they shoot great. you can adjust the thickness of the collar / knock you just want it tight enough so you don't have to worry about the arrow falling out.
Great video...was trying to find if another arrow could be used as the Benjamin arrows here in Oz are $180 AUD for 6....a bit expensive for what they are. Have 2 dozen 2216's from my archery days..will be cutting them down to suit.
This is definitely a useful video ordered 26" easton alloiminium shafts, on weight tests I went from the standard 375grain arrow up to a 450 grain arrow. Muzzle velocity from the barrell changed on average from 160ftlb to 190ftlb, quietened it down even though it made it more powerful, my block rated 450fps held the standard benjamin arrows, where as the block is now struggling, and the accuracy is just as good if not better. Used electrical tape for the back collar, definitely a useful video so will wait to see what else he puts up
Good deal that was the first video I made because I couldn't find anything on it. The aluminum arrows work great. I did have some inserts blow out roughen up the surface and try some jb weld the original 24hr stuff. Had a seal go out on my bow and I think I'm done with it
your video really helped, sad to hear that you have had a seal go in your bow, but to be honest you are I a better situation there than we are here in the uk, we have nowhere in the whole of the uk where you can take these things for service, nowhere will touch them. And there is no bejamin dealer in the uk that will touch it. interested to know where the seal has gone and how that has come about? If you do know that is, kind regards Matt
Also, currently I'm not using anything for a collar because I haven't had any issues with the arrows sliding down the barrel. Maybe if I decide to hunt with the airbow, then I'll probably try the heat shrink method. Also, the Carbon Express CXL collars will fit the 23 series carbon shafts and may fit the aluminum shafts.
riverratcoon I'm liking the 2216 they're little bit tighter of a fit on mine you might want to check before buying a bunch of them probably won't notice much difference with a 2215 I like the feathers and 100 grain rage crossbow chisel tips and the 2". If you needed a quick second shot you can always bring an arrow with the regular fleching.
Thanks for the videos. I got my Benjamin about a month ago and have struggled to get decent groups. I started with the Benjamin arrows and bought an extra 6. Out of 9 arrows, 4 flew pretty good and the other 5 were flyers. I also had one explode on me. I first switched to 2215's with 4" vanes, then 2.5" Fusions then 2" blazers all with no helical just slight offset. I tried 100, 125 and 150 grain field points and the results didn't get much better. I found out that these arrows do not like long vanes, helical or not. I recently switched to 2216's XX75's with 2" blazers with 100 grain points and the results have been remarkable. I still have a few arrows that are flyers out of a dozen and don't understand why, but nevertheless the gun performs much better with the 2216's. There are several 23 series carbon shafts out there that will work as well but after having one of the carbons explode, I think I'll stick with the aluminum's. After all these years of shooting 3D tournaments as well as hunting, I never thought I'd ever be ordering aluminum shafts again.....
Clete Blankenship I'm glad it worked out for you. I was using feathers just because I had a bunch of them left over plus they seem to work really good I've got them full helical. I'm also using a hundred grain tips. Can't think of why you would get a flyer they can't be bent or they will be too hard to get on the gun. You can usually find some pretty good deals on those old aluminum Easton arrows on eBay. The older style quick spins without the kickers on them are low enough profile not to touch also
I've been surprised as to why I have flyers as well. I'm pretty particular about my arrows and keeping them as precise as possible. I make sure to run them through my arrow squaring device, weigh each shaft, spin test, etc. The flyers, I'll even strip and re-fletch to see if that makes any change. I know from my years in competitive archery, that not all shafts in a dozen are equal. I number my shafts so i will know which ones aren't up to par. I haven't tried any feathers yet, but I'm sure I will. The accuracy that I'm trying to attain is 1/2" at 50 yards and dead on, same hole accuracy at 20 to 30 yards. The only helical I used was on the 4" fusions and it made the arrows perform the worst. I feel like the helical should make the arrows stabilize the quickest and best. Oh well, I'll just keep mixing and matching .....
Make sure your knocks have a consistent amount of tension I put on just enough tension to keep them from falling off. For sighting in you should tie into a larger tank for more consistent pressure from shot two shot and then you'll know where your first shot will always be even if they start dropping after that but I've noticed my gun is very consistent for a lot of shots even down to about a thousand. Another thing we cannot control is how much the barrel moves after the arrow comes off of it oh well but at least they're not flexed from the rear off of a string. I'm sure you weighed each Arrow to make sure they're the same weight same length and same insert just thinking.
Craig Wheeler that sounds like a good idea. I think they have too much tension on the factory ones I don't think they need to be that hard to pull out. Plus I happen to have some of the old style quick spins their profiles much lower they're all one color they don't have a separate kicker fin that's black they actually work perfect I still like to put a helical Twist on them even though they say your not supposed to. Used to do it with my compound bows and crossbows and it worked great.
They shot great I was shooting about to 80 yards around 3 or 4 in. I had a seal go bad in my airbow I tried to fix it once and I think it was the wrong size O ring and I'm not sure I want to mess with it anymore. It's a real pain in the ass to take apart and put back together. Those aluminum arrows are awesome off of this thing now the epoxy did come loose on some that sat for a while it blew out make sure you score up the inside good maybe J-B Weld
@@ians1464 Thanks for the reply. I don't recall the part about the epoxy. Did you use that to install the inserts for the tips? I agree JB weld might be better. The Benjamin arrows are not available anywhere I can find so making the 2216 Aluminum might be the only option. Thanks again!
I trimmed down my blazer vanes so they would not touch the barrel shroud without any accuracy issues. I dont like the fact that the factory arrows rub the barrel shroud.
Craig Wheeler that is a simple fix that I wouldn't even have thought of the easiest way to keep them all the same would probably be to cut a straight line I would think. Plus I think the the airbow is perfect for a mechanical because it's so powerful you can shoot one that opens up to a huge diameter. I used to shoot a lot of Spitfires never had a problem with them but the design it seems like it's possible for something to go wrong easier with those the way the blades kick out on a deflecting shot but I'm leaning towards the crossbow rages now.
riverratcoon I did actually I brought it into a bow shop and the only arrows that would fit on it where Fat target arrows kind of thin for target shooting and very expensive so really wasn't a good option I didn't think. It didn't look like commonly used carbon Arrow sizes we're going to fit.
Hallo, can you please help me ? Which bolt you have there which diameter is it inside? Sorry for my english i am not from usa. Thank you very much for an answer
Are you able to get Easton arrows. XX75s 2215 or 2216. The twenty two's the outside what's important is the inside 15s are a little bit more loose but they both shoot great off my bow. Maybe a one or two feet per second difference.
anybody try a VACUUM cap for automotive? its a rubber compound. -LOOKS like thats what victory did. defiantly more work than tape, but might be more permanent. - I will tinker with them when I make mine -thanks for the easton 'tip'!
Anyone ever thought of using FOBs? Seems like they would be a perfect match for the airbow. FOBs measure 1 inch in diameter and the barrel shroud is about 1.4 inches.I know they are pricey but for the accuracy buffs they are perfect.
I used 2216 shafts at 26.5 inches. The factory collar measures .430 so i used 9mm heat shrink wrap for the 1st layer and 10mm for the 2nd. Heat shrink wrap measures .400 with a snug fit. 100 grain swhacker broadheads are giving me 2.00 groups at 80 yards. great Indiana coyote set up!
Craig Wheeler I'm glad that's working out for you thanks for the improvements. Do you trim the shrink wrap after you put it on so that it's flush with the back
2216 and 2215 on mine the 2215 had a better seal but couldn't tell any difference between the two velocity or accuracy just make sure they're long enough to cut off.
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Thank you so much for your videos, Ian. I made the arrows yesterday and went shooting today. I used 2" vanes attached by a jig and super glue. 40 yard test, while standing, leaning on my truck (not very steady) gave me 3" group. I am happy!!! I used electric tape instead of the masking, as you did. It seems to work nicely.
albertqss
cool I'm using Gorilla super glue it's working great for me. wipe the arrow with 91% alcohol will help them stick. also just super glued the inserts in having no issues whatsoever. I wipe the dust out and scratched the inside a little bit before I glue in the nock. I like to put a helical Twist on everything and I'm using feathers mostly because that's what I've already got plus they shoot great. you can adjust the thickness of the collar / knock you just want it tight enough so you don't have to worry about the arrow falling out.
Ian and I work together almost every day. He is an incredibly intelligent guy just don't tell him I said so
Great video...was trying to find if another arrow could be used as the Benjamin arrows here in Oz are $180 AUD for 6....a bit expensive for what they are. Have 2 dozen 2216's from my archery days..will be cutting them down to suit.
Like your work. Great share.
Thank you 🙏🏽
This is definitely a useful video ordered 26" easton alloiminium shafts, on weight tests I went from the standard 375grain arrow up to a 450 grain arrow. Muzzle velocity from the barrell changed on average from 160ftlb to 190ftlb, quietened it down even though it made it more powerful, my block rated 450fps held the standard benjamin arrows, where as the block is now struggling, and the accuracy is just as good if not better. Used electrical tape for the back collar, definitely a useful video so will wait to see what else he puts up
Good deal that was the first video I made because I couldn't find anything on it. The aluminum arrows work great. I did have some inserts blow out roughen up the surface and try some jb weld the original 24hr stuff. Had a seal go out on my bow and I think I'm done with it
your video really helped, sad to hear that you have had a seal go in your bow, but to be honest you are I a better situation there than we are here in the uk, we have nowhere in the whole of the uk where you can take these things for service, nowhere will touch them. And there is no bejamin dealer in the uk that will touch it. interested to know where the seal has gone and how that has come about? If you do know that is, kind regards Matt
Also, currently I'm not using anything for a collar because I haven't had any issues with the arrows sliding down the barrel. Maybe if I decide to hunt with the airbow, then I'll probably try the heat shrink method. Also, the Carbon Express CXL collars will fit the 23 series carbon shafts and may fit the aluminum shafts.
Thanks for all the testing you have done. so what is the best setup you have tried including broadhead
riverratcoon I'm liking the 2216 they're little bit tighter of a fit on mine you might want to check before buying a bunch of them probably won't notice much difference with a 2215 I like the feathers and 100 grain rage crossbow chisel tips and the 2". If you needed a quick second shot you can always bring an arrow with the regular fleching.
Thanks for the videos. I got my Benjamin about a month ago and have struggled to get decent groups. I started with the Benjamin arrows and bought an extra 6. Out of 9 arrows, 4 flew pretty good and the other 5 were flyers. I also had one explode on me. I first switched to 2215's with 4" vanes, then 2.5" Fusions then 2" blazers all with no helical just slight offset. I tried 100, 125 and 150 grain field points and the results didn't get much better. I found out that these arrows do not like long vanes, helical or not. I recently switched to 2216's XX75's with 2" blazers with 100 grain points and the results have been remarkable. I still have a few arrows that are flyers out of a dozen and don't understand why, but nevertheless the gun performs much better with the 2216's. There are several 23 series carbon shafts out there that will work as well but after having one of the carbons explode, I think I'll stick with the aluminum's. After all these years of shooting 3D tournaments as well as hunting, I never thought I'd ever be ordering aluminum shafts again.....
Clete Blankenship I'm glad it worked out for you. I was using feathers just because I had a bunch of them left over plus they seem to work really good I've got them full helical. I'm also using a hundred grain tips. Can't think of why you would get a flyer they can't be bent or they will be too hard to get on the gun. You can usually find some pretty good deals on those old aluminum Easton arrows on eBay. The older style quick spins without the kickers on them are low enough profile not to touch also
I've been surprised as to why I have flyers as well. I'm pretty particular about my arrows and keeping them as precise as possible. I make sure to run them through my arrow squaring device, weigh each shaft, spin test, etc. The flyers, I'll even strip and re-fletch to see if that makes any change. I know from my years in competitive archery, that not all shafts in a dozen are equal. I number my shafts so i will know which ones aren't up to par. I haven't tried any feathers yet, but I'm sure I will. The accuracy that I'm trying to attain is 1/2" at 50 yards and dead on, same hole accuracy at 20 to 30 yards. The only helical I used was on the 4" fusions and it made the arrows perform the worst. I feel like the helical should make the arrows stabilize the quickest and best. Oh well, I'll just keep mixing and matching .....
Make sure your knocks have a consistent amount of tension I put on just enough tension to keep them from falling off. For sighting in you should tie into a larger tank for more consistent pressure from shot two shot and then you'll know where your first shot will always be even if they start dropping after that but I've noticed my gun is very consistent for a lot of shots even down to about a thousand. Another thing we cannot control is how much the barrel moves after the arrow comes off of it oh well but at least they're not flexed from the rear off of a string. I'm sure you weighed each Arrow to make sure they're the same weight same length and same insert just thinking.
Clete Blankenship if you have a chronograph shoot over that too keep an eye on the pressure gauges
Heat shrink wrap works great for the collar. 1st layer is 9mm and second is 12 mm. Very durable and cheap. You can pick your choice of colors too.
Craig Wheeler that sounds like a good idea. I think they have too much tension on the factory ones I don't think they need to be that hard to pull out. Plus I happen to have some of the old style quick spins their profiles much lower they're all one color they don't have a separate kicker fin that's black they actually work perfect I still like to put a helical Twist on them even though they say your not supposed to. Used to do it with my compound bows and crossbows and it worked great.
I would like to see the video you made shooting the air bow in your yard. I can't find it. Can you provide a link?
They shot great I was shooting about to 80 yards around 3 or 4 in.
I had a seal go bad in my airbow I tried to fix it once and I think it was the wrong size O ring and I'm not sure I want to mess with it anymore. It's a real pain in the ass to take apart and put back together. Those aluminum arrows are awesome off of this thing now the epoxy did come loose on some that sat for a while it blew out make sure you score up the inside good maybe J-B Weld
@@ians1464 Thanks for the reply. I don't recall the part about the epoxy. Did you use that to install the inserts for the tips? I agree JB weld might be better. The Benjamin arrows are not available anywhere I can find so making the 2216 Aluminum might be the only option. Thanks again!
I trimmed down my blazer vanes so they would not touch the barrel shroud without any accuracy issues. I dont like the fact that the factory arrows rub the barrel shroud.
Craig Wheeler that is a simple fix that I wouldn't even have thought of the easiest way to keep them all the same would probably be to cut a straight line I would think. Plus I think the the airbow is perfect for a mechanical because it's so powerful you can shoot one that opens up to a huge diameter. I used to shoot a lot of Spitfires never had a problem with them but the design it seems like it's possible for something to go wrong easier with those the way the blades kick out on a deflecting shot but I'm leaning towards the crossbow rages now.
Have you tried any carbon arrows if so what the best fit
riverratcoon I did actually I brought it into a bow shop and the only arrows that would fit on it where Fat target arrows kind of thin for target shooting and very expensive so really wasn't a good option I didn't think. It didn't look like commonly used carbon Arrow sizes we're going to fit.
NVX 23 shafts by Victory, SuperDrive 23 by Easton or the Nine.3 by Goldtip
Easton Fatboys
Hallo, can you please help me ? Which bolt you have there which diameter is it inside? Sorry for my english i am not from usa. Thank you very much for an answer
Are you able to get Easton arrows. XX75s 2215 or 2216. The twenty two's the outside what's important is the inside 15s are a little bit more loose but they both shoot great off my bow. Maybe a one or two feet per second difference.
@@ians1464 thanks a lot ! I can get easten arrows. Thank you .
Ian s Hi, can you please tell me the outside diameter of the barrel.
anybody try a VACUUM cap for automotive? its a rubber compound. -LOOKS like thats what victory did. defiantly more work than tape, but might be more permanent.
- I will tinker with them when I make mine -thanks for the easton 'tip'!
Anyone ever thought of using FOBs? Seems like they would be a perfect match for the airbow. FOBs measure 1 inch in diameter and the barrel shroud is about 1.4 inches.I know they are pricey but for the accuracy buffs they are perfect.
The fob goes all the way around! The fletches don't. You need the 1/3 split at the bottom cause the barrel is so close!
The fob goes into the back of the shaft so they wouldn't be able to slide over the barrel
I used 2216 shafts at 26.5 inches. The factory collar measures .430 so i used 9mm heat shrink wrap for the 1st layer and 10mm for the 2nd. Heat shrink wrap measures .400 with a snug fit. 100 grain swhacker broadheads are giving me 2.00 groups at 80 yards. great Indiana coyote set up!
Craig Wheeler
I'm glad that's working out for you thanks for the improvements. Do you trim the shrink wrap after you put it on so that it's flush with the back
Hi @jenniferwheeler2226, that some years of this post, but did you remember your Vanes setup please ?
Clever bugger
anyone ever find a factory arrow that you can buy and just cut the knock off and use ?
2216 and 2215 on mine the 2215 had a better seal but couldn't tell any difference between the two velocity or accuracy just make sure they're long enough to cut off.
@@ians1464 have not found any that use those shafts . What brands?
You should go to Woodprix if you'd like to make it yourself guys.