I think we may have talked before through a webpage or something before. I think remember you telling me you used a cast iron bellhousing correct? Do you remember what clutch kit you used for this? I have the same trans with a ford input shaft in it as well. Thank you!
Hello, thanks for your video. Was the fuel tank you used the stock one from the Jeep? What fuel pump did you use? Was the shipping unit the stock jeep? Thanks in advance
That's awesome dude! Can you talk about how you set up the engine to run on the stand? I've the same engine going in a TJ. I'd like to run it outside the chassis first.
Ted Hargiss thank you! Running it on the stand is really easy once the harness has been modified to be "stand alone." I used the instructions from LT1swap.com to modify the original harness. If you buy a harness it's basically the same thing hook up power, ignition switch, fuel pump, starter signal, and battery to starter. And of course, the computer needs the key security, VATS, removed. In a nutshell, once you have a modified harness or you bought one, your left with just five or so wires to connect to the vehicle, I just powered up those wires outside the Jeep. Let me know if you want more specifics, I'll do my best to help.
I used adapters with a set of LS truck hoses and a set of small block truck hoses. I did this a few years ago, using a Champion Jeep-SBC swap radiator. Maybe they offer a Jeep LS swap radiator by now? I made the adaptors, but you can buy them.
Can you possibly tell me what year the vehicle was that the fuel pump came out of and did you have to do any modifications on the fuel tank? Thanks Len
Len Ribeiro it was an early 2000s Tahoe, but almost any similar pump would work, I just happened to get this one for free. But anyway, there are no modifications to the tank only the sending unit. All I did was take a measurement from the gas tank sender flange on top of the tank, to the bottom of the tank, than I subtracted 0.050” and I set the total pump/sender depth, including suction screen, to that depth. After a little figuring, the stock sender pick up tube is cut down, and the pump is attached to the pick up tube with a coupler made of high pressure fuel line and crimp clamps( you could probably use regular FI hose clamps). A ground is connected to the sender inside the tank, and I drilled a little hole to run the power wire through the top of the sender, I also put two layers of shrink wrap on the wire in the area that passes through the hole for chafe protection. lastly, the little gap that was left where the wire passes through the hole was sealed with orange rtv. Then the whole thing installs just like the stock sender. I used a wheatherpack plug to attach it to the wiring I ran for it.
@@cj-ty7rn i don’t but google is telling me NFW1050. One thing, they work fine once installed, and they’re super cheap… but they’re real garbage castings really, torque to full factory spec at your own risk. The threaded holes do not like 37ft pounds or whatever the gm torque is. I use 30 and locktite,
@@cj-ty7rn YW, Im not sure what you mean? I have hp tuners deluxe, I’ve read lots of people say you don’t need the deluxe, you can input a wide band another way. Hope that helps, good luck. Join driveway engineer fb page and watch his TH-cam videos if you have more questions, that dudes the best.
Back then I didn’t program the computer myself, from what I recall the tuner said it was abuse mode was on, but that makes me thing he didn’t change the settings to run a manual transmission correctly. Best place to figure that stuff out is on the hptuners forum, and maybe goatropegarage TH-cam channel. Good luck.
Rammie The oil pressure simply took an adaptor, for water temp, I used an unused port with an adaptor using the original sender. But my water temp and fuel gauge still don’t work, they never did, one of these days I’ll take care of that, lol. I can see the water temp on my phone using a OBD2 scanner.
78heloman I’ve been making pretty good progress on mine so far ! Finally got my 5.3 sitting in my painted frame. I have a question for you about your broken body mounts on the tub you repaired. I have a few rusted out one and I’m afraid of having alignment issues when I replace fix them. Do you have any tips of keeping the mounts lined up once you fixed yours ? What did you go by to put them in the same place ? Also did you just weld a nut in the new mounts ?
Rammie I see I’m really late here, I used classic industries replacement supports. The one that I spliced in just took a little measuring and then a made a couple alignment marks. They got some room for error, they move around quite a bit.
Thank you!!! Appreciate the help. ☺ 🇨🇦
Nice job!.
I think we may have talked before through a webpage or something before. I think remember you telling me you used a cast iron bellhousing correct? Do you remember what clutch kit you used for this? I have the same trans with a ford input shaft in it as well. Thank you!
Hello, thanks for your video.
Was the fuel tank you used the stock one from the Jeep?
What fuel pump did you use?
Was the shipping unit the stock jeep?
Thanks in advance
Yeah! Its great!, I LIKE IT!
Very Nice!!!!!! May have to bug you for some of the details!!!!
UCanDoIt2 Thank you!
Hi i bought some cheap block hooger header as your..cylinder number 1 end 2 ithe spark plug is very tight fit?
Its great
What motor mounts did you use. Doing a 6.0, 4l80e swap, trying to get them right
Novak Mounts.
@@78heloman I learned hard way, truck exhaust manifolds won’t fit CJ
At the first Startup what’s that ticking ?
Nice
That's awesome dude!
Can you talk about how you set up the engine to run on the stand? I've the same engine going in a TJ. I'd like to run it outside the chassis first.
Ted Hargiss thank you! Running it on the stand is really easy once the harness has been modified to be "stand alone." I used the instructions from LT1swap.com to modify the original harness. If you buy a harness it's basically the same thing hook up power, ignition switch, fuel pump, starter signal, and battery to starter. And of course, the computer needs the key security, VATS, removed. In a nutshell, once you have a modified harness or you bought one, your left with just five or so wires to connect to the vehicle, I just powered up those wires outside the Jeep. Let me know if you want more specifics, I'll do my best to help.
Nice job. Can you plz give me some info on the headers? I haven't had any luck finding anything on Amazon. What brand did you find that fit? Thanks!!
Len Ribeiro, these are the ones I used :
www.amazon.com/dp/B019HNEFJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_KC9sBb34WJJ2W
@@78heloman Thank you!!! Appreciate the help. ☺ 🇨🇦
What radiator hoses did you use? Having trouble plumbing mine
I used adapters with a set of LS truck hoses and a set of small block truck hoses. I did this a few years ago, using a Champion Jeep-SBC swap radiator. Maybe they offer a Jeep LS swap radiator by now? I made the adaptors, but you can buy them.
Can you possibly tell me what year the vehicle was that the fuel pump came out of and did you have to do any modifications on the fuel tank?
Thanks Len
Len Ribeiro it was an early 2000s Tahoe, but almost any similar pump would work, I just happened to get this one for free. But anyway, there are no modifications to the tank only the sending unit. All I did was take a measurement from the gas tank sender flange on top of the tank, to the bottom of the tank, than I subtracted 0.050” and I set the total pump/sender depth, including suction screen, to that depth. After a little figuring, the stock sender pick up tube is cut down, and the pump is attached to the pick up tube with a coupler made of high pressure fuel line and crimp clamps( you could probably use regular FI hose clamps). A ground is connected to the sender inside the tank, and I drilled a little hole to run the power wire through the top of the sender, I also put two layers of shrink wrap on the wire in the area that passes through the hole for chafe protection. lastly, the little gap that was left where the wire passes through the hole was sealed with orange rtv. Then the whole thing installs just like the stock sender. I used a wheatherpack plug to attach it to the wiring I ran for it.
Which flywheel have you use? End input shaft of t18 how long it was? I am in ways to do that swap
I used a Sachs 4.8 flywheel. I don’t know the length of the input shaft.
Do you remember which sacks flywheel.. Which number to find it?
@@cj-ty7rn i don’t but google is telling me NFW1050. One thing, they work fine once installed, and they’re super cheap… but they’re real garbage castings really, torque to full factory spec at your own risk. The threaded holes do not like 37ft pounds or whatever the gm torque is. I use 30 and locktite,
@@78heloman can you send a photo from my engine to check the crankshaft if it is same to yours?
Hi.. Can you send me any diagram to fix the harness for standalone?
LT1swap.com
Οκ.. Thank you.. Which hp tuners did you used?
@@cj-ty7rn YW, Im not sure what you mean? I have hp tuners deluxe, I’ve read lots of people say you don’t need the deluxe, you can input a wide band another way. Hope that helps, good luck. Join driveway engineer fb page and watch his TH-cam videos if you have more questions, that dudes the best.
Hi..i have the same promplem.. idles well end when i go to put throthle dies..can you help?
Back then I didn’t program the computer myself, from what I recall the tuner said it was abuse mode was on, but that makes me thing he didn’t change the settings to run a manual transmission correctly. Best place to figure that stuff out is on the hptuners forum, and maybe goatropegarage TH-cam channel. Good luck.
@@78heloman thank you friend..do you have hp tuners to read a file?? Because in my country nobady knows about this engine
@@cj-ty7rn Do you have HPtuners?
@@78heloman yes i have
@@78heloman can you help me
What headers did you use on the 5.3 swap and did you need the front cats in the exhaust system?
I didn’t use cats. LS Universal Hugger Headers Swap Conversion (LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6) Ram Horns www.amazon.com/dp/B019HNEFJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_KC9sBb34WJJ2W
Hey I know it’s been a while but I was wondering if you found a way to run the original gauges
Rammie The oil pressure simply took an adaptor, for water temp, I used an unused port with an adaptor using the original sender. But my water temp and fuel gauge still don’t work, they never did, one of these days I’ll take care of that, lol. I can see the water temp on my phone using a OBD2 scanner.
78heloman I’ve been making pretty good progress on mine so far ! Finally got my 5.3 sitting in my painted frame. I have a question for you about your broken body mounts on the tub you repaired. I have a few rusted out one and I’m afraid of having alignment issues when I replace fix them. Do you have any tips of keeping the mounts lined up once you fixed yours ? What did you go by to put them in the same place ? Also did you just weld a nut in the new mounts ?
Rammie I see I’m really late here, I used classic industries replacement supports. The one that I spliced in just took a little measuring and then a made a couple alignment marks. They got some room for error, they move around quite a bit.
I know this video is old but how much did this swap cost?
Wade Davis about 3 grand I think, the motor, transfer case adaptor, and driveshaft were $1500, than another 1500 in other stuff.