Thanks for the video… ran into one of these machines for the first time today… wouldn’t you know… a humidity control issue… i am grateful that you have taken the time to share the info you have learned that is not available in the manuals.
Amazing video! Thank you for making this and sharing all the knowledge. It’s obvious you’ve put in the training time. 💪🏻 Also, your house setup is awesome! Over in Wake Forest, NC, myself. Currently trying to figure out how to get a couple of similar Bosch systems at my house to properly dehumidify and this helped big time! Cheers!
Great video! The ecobee is a powerful stat. It's awesome how much backdoor control they give you. I had never thought about how reverse staging could cause ideal dehumidification removal for these units, that super smart and simple.
thanks for your video. Can you share more info about your monitoring setup? I currently have sensorpush sensors at the start and end of the return duct and at the start and end of supply (to measure split). I struggled for a long time with humidity issues from my unit. The thing that had the greatest impact for me was shimming the unit so it leaned slightly towards the drain. When I stuck a bore camera in the unit I noticed a significant amount of water sitting below the coil and the primary drain not being utilized. The unit is in a horizontal config.
Great video... thanks so much. I'm just north of Toronto, ON (CAN) and have the 3ton model with a 2-ton coil but with the Ecobee 3 lite. I have my Bosch running with only a Y1 (though I'm thinking of hooking up the Y2) and it ran perfectly during the summer months. I have my cool differential set a 1F (0.6C) and have ZERO setback, and it maintained a 75f (24C) with zero effort. I did have to lower the air handler fan speed though to increase more dehumidification. Now it's winter in heating mode but I'm finding the compressor fan to be running at a high speed even though the temperature outside is about 37f (3C), and is much louder than in cooling mode.. I wondering if I hook up the Y2 wire to enable the Stage 2 setting and allowing the air handler fan to run at a higher CFM, if this would change how the compressor fan operates? Would the compressor fan increase even more or decrease as a result?
It will be louder in heating mode. The outdoor fan will run at high speed to absorb as much heat into the outdoor coil as possible. The compressor will also periodically speed up as part of an oil return mode if it runs in 1st stage for a long time. Since you're in a colder environment you definitely need to hook up Y2 with reverse staging in heating and cooling as I show in the video.
@@timdestasiohvac thank you so much for your kind response. I'm going to hook up the Y2 wire for 2nd stage cooling/heating but I will likely not require it. Cooling went fine without the need of 2nd stage during the summer (1st stage ran for 1hr no problem to maintain 1F differential). As for heating, so far at 4C (40F), it has been able to maintain the 1F, and because we have low cost natural gas, my furnace will likely switch over at -1.1C (30F) due to the economic crossover. I was just more wondering about the noise level and if a 2nd stage would be louder.
@@chimaican01 I rarely go into 2nd stage in cooling and DEFINITELY don't need it in heating but I am on the NC coast lol. You have the opposite problem. Hook it up and see what it does.
Hi Tim, so I got the wiring diagram from Bosch then connected all the wires and followed your settings, the ecobee premium couldn’t detect the y2 and w2 wires, then I manually added the wires. Then powered up the system and started the cooling. Temp was 75 and Tstat temp was set to 73, system started in again C2 (stage). What am I doing wrong. I thought it supppse to start in low stage then ramp up to c2 ? Is that right?
Tim i have a bosch. I need some tips with the HP. And balance point explained. The hp will run below balance point and sometimes itll run say point is 35 itll run at 28 then next cycle is fossil. Is this common?
Tim: Thank you again. Will monitor this overnight as I made my cooling related settings match yours, wth the exception of a 15 minute run time minimum in cooling. I added 5 minutes of overcool time. Because we don't have a whole house dehumidifer like you do, and it being not too warm in late Sept, humidity is up, but demand to lower overall temps is down. Do you have a similar video for this Bosch system (or recommendation for someone else) but for the heating side of the equation for Ecobee? I've got this HP20, but I also have a gas furnace for aux heat. I want the HP to do it's thing and keep us warm, but operate efficiently to the extent practical in the winter,. It will cut out below 35 degrees. Tall ceilings, 120 year old house, decently insulated, but its' only going to become but so efficient. Any direction you can provide on that would be appreciated.
Tweeking my newly installed Bosch 20 and my Ecobee Premium Tstat. My installer came back last night, and made adjustments to the air handler and outdoor unit to help maximize dehumidification similar to what Tim demonsrated. At present it is not particularly hot outside, but humid. The unit doesn't run as often right now in general because of the moderate temps I paid attention this morning to activity from overnight. Although I can't post an image, the Ecobee graph shows that it cycled throughout the night, but seemingly started every cycle in stage two and then eventually reverse cycled back down to 1st stage. Shouldn't my unit (unless there is a significant difference in desired temp and setting) start in stage 1, run for a period (presumably longer) and then decide if stage 2 is necessary?
@@timdestasiohvac Thank you Tim. I will. I've got a call into Ecobee right now. They are to call me back. Ecobee can see my setup remotely and determine if something is mismatched as you suggest. I'll let you know what they recommend.
Hi Tim-great video....have you ever worked with fan handler products? check them out....i am using their heat pump controller on my bosch heat pump in upstate ny with good results
Hi, quick question, does the air handler need to be installed in a controlled environment? My Bosch air handler is in the garage and is ‘sweating’ a lot, the installer said that is due to the garage is not a controlled environment. Any thoughts about it. Thanks
@@alfort1943 he is correct. Especially if you live in a humid climate, the garage has a very high dew point and the air handler only has a thin amount of insulation on it. The only solution for you is to lower the dew point in the garage by keeping the door closed, sealing up any additional gaps and putting a dehumidifier in there.
I know there is a lot of variables but I just had a 3 ton Bosch ids 2.0 condenser and a/h installed in my home. I live in a couple miles from the coast in SC and the a/h in an unconditioned attic space. I know high humidity and dew point will affect if the a/h sweats but it seems mine is sweating a lot, including some condensation on the internal electrical. My old unit was a single stage 3.5 ton and my set up with a 2 zone with a bypass damper. Every basic thing has been checked, drain line, bypass damper, supply and return boxes for holes, but it’s still sweating. The fan speed is in the default position, would moving it to the higher position help with the unit condensation build up? And would that mess up the indoor humidity control?
You have a humidity problem in the space where the air handler sits. If it is an unconditioned attic, you need more attic ventilation in there to avoid air stagnation. I have to fix your problem with a Walmart box fan but that's the cheapest solution. The next cheapest solution is to encapsulate the attic properly with spray foam.
Great information man, i was wondering if there was a way to lower the fan speed the closer it gets to the setpoint and the reverse staging is perfect for that. I wonder if Nest thermostats have that same feature. Most of my customers love either the nest or ecobee
@timdestasiohvac on the heating side of things, up here in Indiana we get around 10-15 degrees in February, sometimes below 0 does the reverse staging effect the heat side as well, can you say have a 15kw and it'll only run on element when it's more than 1.5 degree then kick on both if it's more then 2 degree difference.
@@otisgregory5939 in Indiana your heating load is considerably higher than your cooling load I assume. In this case you need a cold climate heat pump or dual fuel if using a traditional heat pump. Sounds like you have a traditional hp with electric heat. In this case you're going to be running a lot of electric strip heat which isn't ideal. You can reduce how much strip heat by speeding up your fan in heating season, then lowering it using the dip switches for cooling season.
Just had a 20 Seer Bosch heat pump with dual fuel propane furnace back up installed. House cools great - but seems to run 5-6 minutes then shuts off. Humidity is in the low 60% most of the time. We live in DE so roughly same climate as NC. BOVA36HDN1M20 Coil: BMAC3036BNTA Furnace: BGH96M060B3B Load calculation for the house via manual S: Cooling 23,700 Heating: 26,600 Current HP settings- accelerated cooling switch is off and set to 3 ton (switch is up) No idea about the air flow settings… Can I just switch the switches like you said or need to check the air flow? Also- installer just put in a Honeywell pro stat. Would the ecobee be beneficial in our case? Worth the $220 plus installer cost? Thank you!
scotth5978-look into fan handler company-google search will bring up....great people there their product will give you a way to slow that fan speed down and works great with bosch heatpumps
Thanks for the video, great info. My wife and I just finished building our house this year and went with the Bosch 18 seer units. We have a 5 ton outdoor unit paired with a 4 ton indoor air handler and a 3 ton outdoor unit paired with a 3 ton air handler. I see you talk alot about setting the units up to properly dehumidify in the video, but you don’t mention anything about cost savings on the monthly electric bill. I assume the way you set up your unit would also be the best way for energy usage cost savings on the monthly electric bill? My units will typically run for about 20 minutes and then will shut off, and the airflow that comes out of the registers to cool my house is pretty strong. And mine only are set up for 1 stage of cooling. With these inverter units, I can’t help but think that if the units ran longer at a lower compressor speed and/or a lower fan speed, then I would see greater savings on my monthly electric bill, and would also achieve better dehumidification like you mention. So I’ve just been trying to figure out if my units are setup properly and if I’m getting the maximum energy savings I should be getting out of these units, but I’m not really sure how to determine that.
First, thannks. Second, you SHOULD be following the steps in this video including 2 stage cooling. Your thermostat should have a Y1 and a Y2 wire. Second, if you're still cycling off on a really hot day, you should slow the blower speed down. I am happy with my bills, but that is the last thing I am worried about in home performance. My priorities are safety, health, comfort THEN efficiency.
Okay thanks. What about when winter comes? Will slowing the blower speed or adjusting the dip switches as you showed in your video have any negative affects in winter? Or those settings are also good for winter?
@@timdestasiohvac. You’re not answering his question. Maybe you’re not concerned about your electric bill. But a lot of people are. Does running the unit by your way increase (and by how much) the cost of his electric bill. Thanks
@@chessiekid4018dont be rude. Set your heat pump up so it can maintain heating conditions with minimal strip heat. If that means running a slightly higher fan speed so be it.
Please I need your help, installer just installed the system and they set it up only as a one stage system and refusing to use y2, now my system is running short cycles 5 minutes on 5 minutes off. Space is cooling but I think this will cause my bill to be super high and what’s the point of having a Bosch heat pump if I don’t use it properly, please help if you can. Thank you in advance
Unfortunately this isn’t remotely unusual. Same thing happened to me. You can fix this as a DIY if you are handy. Read up on Ecobee and Bosch stage 2 and wiring. Took me a couple of hours to wire up Y2 and get things sorted. If you aren’t comfortable find a local Bosch contractor who is.
Hi, according to the Ecobee website, an interface module/adapter is needed for its thermostats to control a variable speed, or an inverter, system. Did you install an adapter for the unit in this video?
Too many people complaining about high humidity with these Bosch units where you never hear that from people who have installed communicating variable speed units. Which one do you buy if you need a 3 1/2 ton?
@@clarkgwozdecki6782 Did you even watch my video? I'm literally showing how to set the Bosch up for humidity control. If you need 3.5 tons, you probably only need 3 tons. But if you actually need 3.5, get the 5 ton with a 4 ton AHU. Yes thats a matchup. Then go back and actually watch my video this time.
@@timdestasiohvac Yes I watched your video and I stated a fact that many people are complaining about high humidity running a Bosch unit where you never hear the same complaints from techs who install communicating variable speed systems. Also no where In Bosch’s manual do they say to use the ecobee to get their units to run properly. You did quite a few tweeks to that thermostat which you can’t do with most thermostats. I could very well see humidity issues now with this unit where an ecobee is not installed. Bosch should have their own thermostat that addresses this
@@clarkgwozdecki6782 my video was how to get gteat results from a bosch. You also dont hear bosch contractors complaining about leaky coils and blown inverters with 16 week lead times. Still not getting your point
@@VinaySangha Do a load calculation and read the ahu manual and set them for an airflow around 300 cfm per ton if youre in a humid climate. If it cant keep up, increase it by one speed tap. You'll need to read total static pressure
I feel like it is. It should have a quality surge protector. Part availability varies from area to area but I haven't heard of the leaky evaporator coils that has plagued other brands.
Great job. I appreciate this vid
Thanks for the video… ran into one of these machines for the first time today… wouldn’t you know… a humidity control issue… i am grateful that you have taken the time to share the info you have learned that is not available in the manuals.
Great video! Wish everyone put some much care and thought into an install.
@@Richie_7777 thanks
Amazing video! Thank you for making this and sharing all the knowledge. It’s obvious you’ve put in the training time. 💪🏻 Also, your house setup is awesome!
Over in Wake Forest, NC, myself. Currently trying to figure out how to get a couple of similar Bosch systems at my house to properly dehumidify and this helped big time! Cheers!
@@hansu327 youre welcome
Great video! The ecobee is a powerful stat. It's awesome how much backdoor control they give you. I had never thought about how reverse staging could cause ideal dehumidification removal for these units, that super smart and simple.
checkout beestat.
@@timdestasiohvacwhat’s beestat?
@@5sunny01 it is an independent organization that gives you a lot more insights on your ecobee thermostat.
Great video Tim.
@@mcallistergroup9644 thanks!
Hi, thanks for your videos, and also for taking the time to answer questions.
Are you going to make a video about settings for heating run times?
@@alfort1943 sure. I get about 5 weeks of cold weather here though
I got the first generation Bosch. Has been amazing. Will I get more benefits out of the Ecobee than Bosch BC-100 I don’t have a 2 stage air handler
thanks for your video. Can you share more info about your monitoring setup? I currently have sensorpush sensors at the start and end of the return duct and at the start and end of supply (to measure split).
I struggled for a long time with humidity issues from my unit. The thing that had the greatest impact for me was shimming the unit so it leaned slightly towards the drain. When I stuck a bore camera in the unit I noticed a significant amount of water sitting below the coil and the primary drain not being utilized. The unit is in a horizontal config.
@@adambrock look at my video feed youll see some content on it
Great video... thanks so much.
I'm just north of Toronto, ON (CAN) and have the 3ton model with a 2-ton coil but with the Ecobee 3 lite. I have my Bosch running with only a Y1 (though I'm thinking of hooking up the Y2) and it ran perfectly during the summer months. I have my cool differential set a 1F (0.6C) and have ZERO setback, and it maintained a 75f (24C) with zero effort. I did have to lower the air handler fan speed though to increase more dehumidification.
Now it's winter in heating mode but I'm finding the compressor fan to be running at a high speed even though the temperature outside is about 37f (3C), and is much louder than in cooling mode.. I wondering if I hook up the Y2 wire to enable the Stage 2 setting and allowing the air handler fan to run at a higher CFM, if this would change how the compressor fan operates? Would the compressor fan increase even more or decrease as a result?
It will be louder in heating mode. The outdoor fan will run at high speed to absorb as much heat into the outdoor coil as possible. The compressor will also periodically speed up as part of an oil return mode if it runs in 1st stage for a long time. Since you're in a colder environment you definitely need to hook up Y2 with reverse staging in heating and cooling as I show in the video.
@@timdestasiohvac thank you so much for your kind response. I'm going to hook up the Y2 wire for 2nd stage cooling/heating but I will likely not require it. Cooling went fine without the need of 2nd stage during the summer (1st stage ran for 1hr no problem to maintain 1F differential). As for heating, so far at 4C (40F), it has been able to maintain the 1F, and because we have low cost natural gas, my furnace will likely switch over at -1.1C (30F) due to the economic crossover. I was just more wondering about the noise level and if a 2nd stage would be louder.
@@chimaican01 I rarely go into 2nd stage in cooling and DEFINITELY don't need it in heating but I am on the NC coast lol. You have the opposite problem. Hook it up and see what it does.
Great info! Can you run the Bosch IDS with a variable speed blower?
@@pat750 yes!
Hi Tim, so I got the wiring diagram from Bosch then connected all the wires and followed your settings, the ecobee premium couldn’t detect the y2 and w2 wires, then I manually added the wires.
Then powered up the system and started the cooling. Temp was 75 and Tstat temp was set to 73, system started in again C2 (stage). What am I doing wrong. I thought it supppse to start in low stage then ramp up to c2 ? Is that right?
Yes, it should ramp up and ramp down. I'm not sure I can helpe you diagnose what's wrong remotely. I'm sorry you're having trouble.
Tim i have a bosch. I need some tips with the HP. And balance point explained. The hp will run below balance point and sometimes itll run say point is 35 itll run at 28 then next cycle is fossil. Is this common?
@@Keith_Mikell if its the Bosch thermostat it may be looking at other factors. I dont know as much about that control.
Tim: Thank you again. Will monitor this overnight as I made my cooling related settings match yours, wth the exception of a 15 minute run time minimum in cooling. I added 5 minutes of overcool time. Because we don't have a whole house dehumidifer like you do, and it being not too warm in late Sept, humidity is up, but demand to lower overall temps is down. Do you have a similar video for this Bosch system (or recommendation for someone else) but for the heating side of the equation for Ecobee? I've got this HP20, but I also have a gas furnace for aux heat. I want the HP to do it's thing and keep us warm, but operate efficiently to the extent practical in the winter,. It will cut out below 35 degrees. Tall ceilings, 120 year old house, decently insulated, but its' only going to become but so efficient. Any direction you can provide on that would be appreciated.
Tweeking my newly installed Bosch 20 and my Ecobee Premium Tstat. My installer came back last night, and made adjustments to the air handler and outdoor unit to help maximize dehumidification similar to what Tim demonsrated. At present it is not particularly hot outside, but humid. The unit doesn't run as often right now in general because of the moderate temps I paid attention this morning to activity from overnight. Although I can't post an image, the Ecobee graph shows that it cycled throughout the night, but seemingly started every cycle in stage two and then eventually reverse cycled back down to 1st stage. Shouldn't my unit (unless there is a significant difference in desired temp and setting) start in stage 1, run for a period (presumably longer) and then decide if stage 2 is necessary?
@@andrewsugg6844 yes you may have some overlap on the settings. Take another look at the ecobee
@@timdestasiohvac Thank you Tim. I will. I've got a call into Ecobee right now. They are to call me back. Ecobee can see my setup remotely and determine if something is mismatched as you suggest. I'll let you know what they recommend.
Hi Tim-great video....have you ever worked with fan handler products? check them out....i am using their heat pump controller on my bosch heat pump in upstate ny with good results
@@bobrumpf2576 what do you like about them?
Hi, quick question, does the air handler need to be installed in a controlled environment? My Bosch air handler is in the garage and is ‘sweating’ a lot, the installer said that is due to the garage is not a controlled environment. Any thoughts about it.
Thanks
@@alfort1943 he is correct. Especially if you live in a humid climate, the garage has a very high dew point and the air handler only has a thin amount of insulation on it. The only solution for you is to lower the dew point in the garage by keeping the door closed, sealing up any additional gaps and putting a dehumidifier in there.
@@timdestasiohvac
Thanks for your prompt response
I know there is a lot of variables but I just had a 3 ton Bosch ids 2.0 condenser and a/h installed in my home. I live in a couple miles from the coast in SC and the a/h in an unconditioned attic space. I know high humidity and dew point will affect if the a/h sweats but it seems mine is sweating a lot, including some condensation on the internal electrical. My old unit was a single stage 3.5 ton and my set up with a 2 zone with a bypass damper. Every basic thing has been checked, drain line, bypass damper, supply and return boxes for holes, but it’s still sweating. The fan speed is in the default position, would moving it to the higher position help with the unit condensation build up? And would that mess up the indoor humidity control?
You have a humidity problem in the space where the air handler sits. If it is an unconditioned attic, you need more attic ventilation in there to avoid air stagnation. I have to fix your problem with a Walmart box fan but that's the cheapest solution. The next cheapest solution is to encapsulate the attic properly with spray foam.
Great information man, i was wondering if there was a way to lower the fan speed the closer it gets to the setpoint and the reverse staging is perfect for that. I wonder if Nest thermostats have that same feature. Most of my customers love either the nest or ecobee
@@otisgregory5939 youd have to retrofit the blower controls for that.
Ecobee > Nest
@@timdestasiohvac I agree , but some homeowners love them things like it was their kid or something. Right on for the information 👌
@timdestasiohvac on the heating side of things, up here in Indiana we get around 10-15 degrees in February, sometimes below 0 does the reverse staging effect the heat side as well, can you say have a 15kw and it'll only run on element when it's more than 1.5 degree then kick on both if it's more then 2 degree difference.
@@otisgregory5939 in Indiana your heating load is considerably higher than your cooling load I assume. In this case you need a cold climate heat pump or dual fuel if using a traditional heat pump. Sounds like you have a traditional hp with electric heat. In this case you're going to be running a lot of electric strip heat which isn't ideal. You can reduce how much strip heat by speeding up your fan in heating season, then lowering it using the dip switches for cooling season.
Just had a 20 Seer Bosch heat pump with dual fuel propane furnace back up installed. House cools great - but seems to run 5-6 minutes then shuts off. Humidity is in the low 60% most of the time. We live in DE so roughly same climate as NC.
BOVA36HDN1M20
Coil: BMAC3036BNTA
Furnace: BGH96M060B3B
Load calculation for the house via manual S:
Cooling 23,700
Heating: 26,600
Current HP settings- accelerated cooling switch is off and set to 3 ton (switch is up)
No idea about the air flow settings…
Can I just switch the switches like you said or need to check the air flow?
Also- installer just put in a Honeywell pro stat. Would the ecobee be beneficial in our case? Worth the $220 plus installer cost?
Thank you!
You need to reduce airflow big time. Switch it to 2 ton also.
scotth5978-look into fan handler company-google search will bring up....great people there their product will give you a way to slow that fan speed down and works great with bosch heatpumps
Great video, can u show ecobee setting for heat mod ?
@@dmytrokhomchyk2290 sure when ut gets coldet
Thanks for the video, great info. My wife and I just finished building our house this year and went with the Bosch 18 seer units. We have a 5 ton outdoor unit paired with a 4 ton indoor air handler and a 3 ton outdoor unit paired with a 3 ton air handler. I see you talk alot about setting the units up to properly dehumidify in the video, but you don’t mention anything about cost savings on the monthly electric bill. I assume the way you set up your unit would also be the best way for energy usage cost savings on the monthly electric bill? My units will typically run for about 20 minutes and then will shut off, and the airflow that comes out of the registers to cool my house is pretty strong. And mine only are set up for 1 stage of cooling. With these inverter units, I can’t help but think that if the units ran longer at a lower compressor speed and/or a lower fan speed, then I would see greater savings on my monthly electric bill, and would also achieve better dehumidification like you mention. So I’ve just been trying to figure out if my units are setup properly and if I’m getting the maximum energy savings I should be getting out of these units, but I’m not really sure how to determine that.
First, thannks. Second, you SHOULD be following the steps in this video including 2 stage cooling. Your thermostat should have a Y1 and a Y2 wire. Second, if you're still cycling off on a really hot day, you should slow the blower speed down.
I am happy with my bills, but that is the last thing I am worried about in home performance. My priorities are safety, health, comfort THEN efficiency.
Okay thanks. What about when winter comes? Will slowing the blower speed or adjusting the dip switches as you showed in your video have any negative affects in winter? Or those settings are also good for winter?
@@Jake-fh1yw thats DEFINJTELY a concern but not for me. Im on the NC coast and my unit never went into 2nd stge heat or defrost last winter lol
@@timdestasiohvac. You’re not answering his question. Maybe you’re not concerned about your electric bill. But a lot of people are. Does running the unit by your way increase (and by how much) the cost of his electric bill. Thanks
@@chessiekid4018dont be rude. Set your heat pump up so it can maintain heating conditions with minimal strip heat. If that means running a slightly higher fan speed so be it.
Tim, is there a reason you went with Bosch instead of Mitsubishi?
@@weiss27md I like the Ecobee thermostat and I dont like how Mitsubishi controls their compressors at part load.
Please I need your help, installer just installed the system and they set it up only as a one stage system and refusing to use y2, now my system is running short cycles
5 minutes on 5 minutes off. Space is cooling but I think this will cause my bill to be super high and what’s the point of having a Bosch heat pump if I don’t use it properly, please help if you can. Thank you in advance
Unfortunately this isn’t remotely unusual. Same thing happened to me. You can fix this as a DIY if you are handy. Read up on Ecobee and Bosch stage 2 and wiring. Took me a couple of hours to wire up Y2 and get things sorted. If you aren’t comfortable find a local Bosch contractor who is.
@@bbartle4 thank you so much for replying, I’m very handy and I will be able to do the wiring, it’s the calibration and setting I need help with
Hi, according to the Ecobee website, an interface module/adapter is needed for its thermostats to control a variable speed, or an inverter, system. Did you install an adapter for the unit in this video?
@@alfort1943 no. Its not needed for Bosch. The compressor is inverter but is controlled via 24V traditional signals
@@timdestasiohvac
Good to know.
Thanks!
Do you find this unit noisy in heat mode?
@@emyunster yes periodically it goes into oil return mode and the comp.speeds up
@@timdestasiohvac any recommendations on quieter systems?
Too many people complaining about high humidity with these Bosch units where you never hear that from people who have installed communicating variable speed units. Which one do you buy if you need a 3 1/2 ton?
@@clarkgwozdecki6782 Did you even watch my video? I'm literally showing how to set the Bosch up for humidity control.
If you need 3.5 tons, you probably only need 3 tons. But if you actually need 3.5, get the 5 ton with a 4 ton AHU. Yes thats a matchup. Then go back and actually watch my video this time.
@@timdestasiohvac Yes I watched your video and I stated a fact that many people are complaining about high humidity running a Bosch unit where you never hear the same complaints from techs who install communicating variable speed systems. Also no where In Bosch’s manual do they say to use the ecobee to get their units to run properly. You did quite a few tweeks to that thermostat which you can’t do with most thermostats. I could very well see humidity issues now with this unit where an ecobee is not installed. Bosch should have their own thermostat that addresses this
@@clarkgwozdecki6782 my video was how to get gteat results from a bosch.
You also dont hear bosch contractors complaining about leaky coils and blown inverters with 16 week lead times.
Still not getting your point
Hello, what should my dip switches on my air handler be set to. I have the same as yours but 5ton.
@@VinaySangha Do a load calculation and read the ahu manual and set them for an airflow around 300 cfm per ton if youre in a humid climate. If it cant keep up, increase it by one speed tap. You'll need to read total static pressure
@@timdestasiohvacthank you, can you show me how your thermostat is wired.
@@VinaySangha traditional 2 stage heat pump wiring
I got the first generation Bosch. Has been amazing. Will I get more benefits out of the Ecobee than Bosch BC-100 ? I don’t have a 2 stage air handler.
@@rameygarnett1 you might be able to get an aftermarket ecm motor that will do 2 stage.
Is this reliable unit?
What about availability if spare parts?
I feel like it is. It should have a quality surge protector. Part availability varies from area to area but I haven't heard of the leaky evaporator coils that has plagued other brands.
Can you recommend one? (Surge protector)
@@emyunster AG3000 if you're on a budget, ICM493 gives a little more protection.
If the Bosch unit maintains a certain pressure on the suction, what does changing the dip switch to 2 ton actually do?
@@pj91198 sets a limit at 2 tons worth of compressor wattage