Hey, really want to thank you for this video. I was sold on this buggy before doing research. Before I bought it I pulled up, figured I’d do some looking around and get some opinions. Saw your video and figured “ok, so if he’s correct about the pre upgrade comments it doesn’t look too hard to do what he suggested and get to his happy state.” First got the buggy and ran it around the house, didn’t seem too bad but limited space. Went ahead and got the pinion gear, just changed it out and holy shit! Ran it around the back yard for a quick test, shaggy lawn that needs to be mowed, it ripped pretty impressively through it. Got some new tires, added the shock spacers, will be taking it out to our track my next day off. So anyway, long winded way to a short comment: thank you very much, love this car even more than before I bought it. 👍👍
@@johnniehobby did pretty good, track isn’t much from basically a backyard, small town RC club, pretty sandy and loose. But the car was easy to handle and jumped well. I bet it would be real impressive on a better prepped/cared for track.
These cars are awesome for outdoor real dirt tracks. I raced mine straight out of the box and it was setup pretty good. I love it so much I bought another to convert to stadium truck (it's actually mostly SC10) and one for the gf to race.
Great video! Hearing your initial impression was great, but hearing the easy changes you made to fix the issues was even better. The comparison between the rb10 and the pr2 sc10 is something i have had a hard time finding so seeing it here was awesome.
After rewatching this video, I was wondering how blocking the hole on the inside of the tire and punching a new hole on the outside was beneficial? Wouldn't the same amount of dirt get in the tire through the new hole?
Try sliding the battery forward some, helped mine with steering alot. All the weight is already towards the rear so it helps put something on the front
55wt is pretty heavy if you are talking about a buggy. It won't destroy the shock, but will probably negatively affect the handling, especially in the turns.
@johnniehobby what servo and arm are you considering switch to? Keeping or ditching the servo saver? Great video and very helpful. Coming out of bashers and looking to start racing. I don’t quite know how to calculate the 17.5/13.5. How did the changes you made impact that or did it not?
I'm not sure what servo I'll put in the buggy. It seems every time I buy one it's different than the last. I look for something 9kg or more and .1 sec or less transit time, and all-metal drive train, but I don't spend too much. Max $50. I'll keep the servo saver. I've not found that removing it helps anything, at least not with our track conditions. The 3300kv motor that comes included with the RB10 is equivalent to a 13.5 turn motor, and the gearing change didn't prompt any other changes to the driveline. It's not over-geared so motor temps aren't a problem, and probably has more room to gear up if needed.
You can't really go wrong with either but I would lean towards the Slash. Tough as nails and less likely to break a control arm or other suspension parts because it's not an open wheel design like the buggy. Also, the trucks are more likely to land back on their wheels if you roll it over.
@@johnniehobby Thank you for the response. I am going to order each of them a Slash with a few extra batteries. Depending on what the wife says, I may order the buggy, but that would be for me only.
Thanks a lot for the video. I just bought an RB10 rtr, and I'm building my first track. I started with some cheap RC bashers, but I like the hobby and I'm "going for it." What did you mean by "slow AF" ?
Great video man, I just got my RB10 and I'm running on the same type of track (loose loamy dirt), the few changes you've mentioned made a big difference. The only thing I haven't done is vented the tires, is there a performance benefit over having the wheels already vented, or is it solely as you mentioned about trying to keep out the dirt.
@johnniehobby awesome thanks for that...I've been trying to get the hang of this outdoor loose stuff, can't seem to get my oversteering under control though, messing around with adding weight to the rear
Hey mate, love your channel. I have a question that I was wondering you could answer for me. Is there any way that I can have over 4 players racing at the same time on a Carrera Digital 1:24 4 lane track? I understand that Carrera says a maximum of 4 racers on 1:24 What would happen if i had two control units in the same track? What if i used a different transformer?
Multiple control units won't work. Your best bet is an aftermarket power supply. The CU will handle a maximum of 8 amps @18 volts so a power supply with variable voltage and current is essential. The biggest current draw is at the beginning of a race where everybody starts at the same time and that could kick out the over-current protection. If that happens even with an aftermarket PSU then a rolling start would be the remedy. This is based on my research and don't have any firsthand experience with this so proceed with caution.
@@johnniehobby Awesome thanks for the advice, i will tread carefully. So instead of plugging the carrera control unit into a wall socket/electrical outlet, i simply plug it into an aftermarket power supply?
A good entry-level brand is Traxxas. Tough as nails, lots of hobby shops carry them, parts are plentiful and affordable, and easy to work on. There are many types available but for racing you'd want a short course truck (Slash) or Buggy (Bandit). For a 10-year old, I would recommend getting the versions with NiMH batteries over the LiPo option. NiMH batteries are quite safe. If not handled properly, LiPos can pose a fire hazard.
Pick whatever single-chassis spec class your local track runs. Slash and Bandit are common off-road spec classes, TT-02 is more or less the go-to for onroad. And if your closest track tries to advertise 17.5 Stock as their entry level class then go elsewhere and don't look back, because that class is a huge money pit.
@@DPoner That's difficult to answer as we don't keep very good logs of how many laps we run after making changes to our vehicles. However, I'm going to guess several hundred laps, at least on our track which is mostly loose dirt.
Hey, really want to thank you for this video. I was sold on this buggy before doing research. Before I bought it I pulled up, figured I’d do some looking around and get some opinions. Saw your video and figured “ok, so if he’s correct about the pre upgrade comments it doesn’t look too hard to do what he suggested and get to his happy state.” First got the buggy and ran it around the house, didn’t seem too bad but limited space. Went ahead and got the pinion gear, just changed it out and holy shit! Ran it around the back yard for a quick test, shaggy lawn that needs to be mowed, it ripped pretty impressively through it. Got some new tires, added the shock spacers, will be taking it out to our track my next day off. So anyway, long winded way to a short comment: thank you very much, love this car even more than before I bought it. 👍👍
Great to hear and glad I could help. BTW: how did it do at the track?
@@johnniehobby did pretty good, track isn’t much from basically a backyard, small town RC club, pretty sandy and loose. But the car was easy to handle and jumped well. I bet it would be real impressive on a better prepped/cared for track.
Nice entro out of the box. The RB10 is all dialed in. Great Job!
These cars are awesome for outdoor real dirt tracks. I raced mine straight out of the box and it was setup pretty good. I love it so much I bought another to convert to stadium truck (it's actually mostly SC10) and one for the gf to race.
great video thanks. Would be cool to see any other additional mods.
Great video, thank you. It was great to see the step by step changes you made with the improvements! Very valuable.
great video! the intro out of the box was brilliant ...I will have to check out some of your other videos.
Great video!
Hearing your initial impression was great, but hearing the easy changes you made to fix the issues was even better. The comparison between the rb10 and the pr2 sc10 is something i have had a hard time finding so seeing it here was awesome.
After rewatching this video, I was wondering how blocking the hole on the inside of the tire and punching a new hole on the outside was beneficial?
Wouldn't the same amount of dirt get in the tire through the new hole?
@BlueCollarRC the wheel is a centrifuge. Punching a hole in the tire helps fling dirt out of the tire.
Try sliding the battery forward some, helped mine with steering alot. All the weight is already towards the rear so it helps put something on the front
Nice little video on the buggy, thanks, from the UK.
No problem 👍
Great review and awesome track!!!
Thanks for watching, and thanks for commenting.
Hi guys i put a72 tooth spur and 26 pinion and it flies on the track, great videos
On 2s? It’s super fast stock on 3s
Yeh 2s haven't tried it on 3s yet it might stop the planet turning if I try that
@@xJae14xdoes 26 fit with standard spur
How did the pace compare with the B2 in the end? My local club runs a rear motor class, toying berween an RB10 and Kyosho Dirt Master at present
The RB10 definitely feels more planted than my B2.
Would a 55 oil work with the rear shock? I am afraid it would destroy the shock if I let the car jump too high
55wt is pretty heavy if you are talking about a buggy. It won't destroy the shock, but will probably negatively affect the handling, especially in the turns.
@johnniehobby what servo and arm are you considering switch to? Keeping or ditching the servo saver? Great video and very helpful. Coming out of bashers and looking to start racing. I don’t quite know how to calculate the 17.5/13.5. How did the changes you made impact that or did it not?
I'm not sure what servo I'll put in the buggy. It seems every time I buy one it's different than the last. I look for something 9kg or more and .1 sec or less transit time, and all-metal drive train, but I don't spend too much. Max $50. I'll keep the servo saver. I've not found that removing it helps anything, at least not with our track conditions. The 3300kv motor that comes included with the RB10 is equivalent to a 13.5 turn motor, and the gearing change didn't prompt any other changes to the driveline. It's not over-geared so motor temps aren't a problem, and probably has more room to gear up if needed.
@@johnniehobby thank you!
Would you recommend this or another 2wd brushed slash. Know how to drive. Just looking to get back onto the hobby with my kids.
You can't really go wrong with either but I would lean towards the Slash. Tough as nails and less likely to break a control arm or other suspension parts because it's not an open wheel design like the buggy. Also, the trucks are more likely to land back on their wheels if you roll it over.
@@johnniehobby Thank you for the response. I am going to order each of them a Slash with a few extra batteries. Depending on what the wife says, I may order the buggy, but that would be for me only.
Thanks a lot for the video.
I just bought an RB10 rtr, and I'm building my first track. I started with some cheap RC bashers, but I like the hobby and I'm "going for it."
What did you mean by "slow AF" ?
Great video man, I just got my RB10 and I'm running on the same type of track (loose loamy dirt), the few changes you've mentioned made a big difference.
The only thing I haven't done is vented the tires, is there a performance benefit over having the wheels already vented, or is it solely as you mentioned about trying to keep out the dirt.
No difference in performance, it just keeps the dirt from getting in and loading up in the tire.
@johnniehobby awesome thanks for that...I've been trying to get the hang of this outdoor loose stuff, can't seem to get my oversteering under control though, messing around with adding weight to the rear
Hey mate, love your channel.
I have a question that I was wondering you could answer for me. Is there any way that I can have over 4 players racing at the same time on a Carrera Digital 1:24 4 lane track?
I understand that Carrera says a maximum of 4 racers on 1:24
What would happen if i had two control units in the same track?
What if i used a different transformer?
Multiple control units won't work. Your best bet is an aftermarket power supply. The CU will handle a maximum of 8 amps @18 volts so a power supply with variable voltage and current is essential. The biggest current draw is at the beginning of a race where everybody starts at the same time and that could kick out the over-current protection. If that happens even with an aftermarket PSU then a rolling start would be the remedy. This is based on my research and don't have any firsthand experience with this so proceed with caution.
@@johnniehobby Awesome thanks for the advice, i will tread carefully. So instead of plugging the carrera control unit into a wall socket/electrical outlet, i simply plug it into an aftermarket power supply?
What type of RC vehicle would you recommend for a first time 10 year old racer?
For fun
:)
A good entry-level brand is Traxxas. Tough as nails, lots of hobby shops carry them, parts are plentiful and affordable, and easy to work on. There are many types available but for racing you'd want a short course truck (Slash) or Buggy (Bandit). For a 10-year old, I would recommend getting the versions with NiMH batteries over the LiPo option. NiMH batteries are quite safe. If not handled properly, LiPos can pose a fire hazard.
@@johnniehobby Thanks
Take care and continue having fun
:)
Pick whatever single-chassis spec class your local track runs. Slash and Bandit are common off-road spec classes, TT-02 is more or less the go-to for onroad. And if your closest track tries to advertise 17.5 Stock as their entry level class then go elsewhere and don't look back, because that class is a huge money pit.
0:06 hahaha I didn’t see this coming
How many races will those tires last?
The prolines
@@DPoner That's difficult to answer as we don't keep very good logs of how many laps we run after making changes to our vehicles. However, I'm going to guess several hundred laps, at least on our track which is mostly loose dirt.
It’s just a modernized b4 🤪
Correct! The nicest thing about the update is the metric hardware. No longer need to go back and forth between imperial and metric tools.
@@johnniehobby the control arms & other suspension components look identical to the B4
Almost all of the parts on the RB10 are compatible with the B5. It’s basically a simplified B5 with a B4-style chassis and B6 ball cups.
Unboxing mit verrosteten Schrauben ist lächerlich!