@@jerryvolpini7987 - Also good for people who have old B4 race buggies, parts are difficult to find so a replacement has been needed for those of us who enjoy the older style 2WD race buggies. They make great bashers and are easy to repair.
@@jerryvolpini7987I’ve run my on carpet. It does ok and there’s a few more at the track that race. The owner, a sponsored driver, runs one too;). It’s better for dirt though.
the hobby needs more of these RTR and race capable right out of the box, I hope more manufacturers follow suit, but so that they can be more known races have to be done with these types and show that you can still have fun and compete without breaking the bank.
Great review all around. Thanks for the effort and detail! I’m looking to get back into the hobby from my original RC-10 Graphite. This gives me more confidence- for a beginner.
If you're familiar with the SR10 dirt oval car, the DR10 drag car, the SC10, SCB10, and the RC10 B4. Then you'll be right at home and parts will work with your older Associated cars.
Hi Brett, another awesome video man, the ideas you come up with are fantastic, i loved everything you did with the buggy especially the drag buggy, that literally had me in stitches, i laughed so hard my ribs hurt lol 😝. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
This looks like a pretty sweet little buggy. I'd like to get into racing but the cost of the kits + electronics has to be close to $800+, at the very least. $320 is much easier to stomach. That being said, one thing that's concerning is that, aren't 2WD Buggy race classes limited to 2S batteries? I have a Losi Mini-B with a brushless upgrade and the thing can clear huge 20+ foot jumps, but I'm pretty sure it could outrun this thing on 2S! I imagine a gearing swap is basically necessary if you are running this on anything with good sized jumps? Sure 3S will grant you far more punch and top speed but still, if you're limited to 2S for racing, it may not be enough? New to all of this, so am I making sense?
Replying to my old comment - I ended up building a TLR 22X-4 and have been racing for about a year now and it's amazing. This car looks like a lot of fun though if you've got a turf or carpet track near you to do some ripping around. Definitely not something to race though, need to build a kit for that if you want to actually see the top 3 at any point. EDIT: HAH and your name and channel is about the 22X-4. That's pretty funny man. Great car.
Got 2 of these for my boys, 5 and 7. was really impressed with them for the most part. had one show up with out any oil in the shock and the other had an issue with a few lose screws holding the motor mount to the transmission. Will you be doing a must have upgrades for this car.
Yep. AE are great cars. But I agree, QC is crap. We have 2 B6.3s and a DR10. All three kits have defective, missing and incorrect parts. Defective meaning - parts were bent. Etc. Who ever bags these parts is a schmoe.
Awesome video 👍 I'll definitely check the price point on this new buggy. Add it to the ol wishlist 😁 Question: do y'all ever get a chance to head out East for racing??
Growls in seductive RC gear whine noises. Haha!!! Edit: The drag buggy is perfect. All you need is some paddle tires and a beach for some sand drag racing. Also, I think this buggy is perfect with its versatility. I also have been needing a replacement for the B4 since parts are hard to come by now. 2WD buggy is my favorite RC car, they are fast, fun, challenging, and easy to work on. They make great bashers too! You forgot to tell us the speeds, stock, with those bigger tires, and with the upgraded pinion or even a 3s. I know my B4 with 5400KV and 3s was insanely impossible but was a lot of fun to try. I don't think it could get over 50 without flipping back.
The drag buggy was pretty cool and someone else in the comments mentioned the short wheelbase Pinto drag body which I didn't even think of, but that would bolt right on there. For speeds, we tested 2S and 3S with 20MPH and 31MPH respectively. Never tested different gearing, or the larger tires after we noticed they ripped. -Brett
This would make a great beginner 2WD buggy class as it isn't that expensive as a RTR. Is this compatible with a particular racing buggy previously released?
I got an old roller from like 2007 …. Can’t remember the name but it’s basically just an older model of the rb10 lol… I kinda want to build it sometime
I was seriously thinking about one of these to see what minimal conversion could be done to make it competitive. I have 22.5 roller which I never fell in love with. It drives too flat for me. but In return its fast. After seeing that carpet run , the back end looked really heavy. I know sway bars, shock adj and oil can fix, But for $335.00 , there's really no argument I can make to purchase over a standard AE race kit. I think AE needs to rethink that price point.
@@Sackmatters you realize basher doesn't mean better right? A kit version is better then any rtr lol. My associated sc10 sc5 amd sc6.1 is built better and way more durable then my slashs and rustler 4x4. A rtr is made with lower quality stuff to make it affordable for you so they can add the electronics. So for it to be closer to a race car is a good thing not a bad thing man haha. Traxxas amd arrma are toys compared to any race kit on the market not just associated.
@@jeffbryner5355 I’m well aware a kit is better that’s why I have a 22x4, b74.1d and two kit blitz short courses. I’ve been in this hobby for 17 years now. This car is a rtr. That’s why it’s only $335 rtr instead of $300 as a kit.
@@jeffbryner5355 track wise and performance it most definitely will. I don’t think it will be quit as durable in the gravel pit bashing scene but the handling will be much better. The bandit is on such an old platform it’s been outdated for a long time it’s just tough.
Nice video guys as usual ! Would you say this rtr from team asso is more competitive than the kyosho ultima rb6.6 ? I had the kyosho for 2 years but it is destroyed and not for sale anymore. I was thinking of this rb10 instead. This is for parking lot races and astro races. Or other rtr model to recommend maybe? Thanks for your advice !
For a 2WD RTR 1/10 buggy, this RB10 or the Serpent SRX-2 are your options: www.amainhobbies.com/serpent-spyder-srx2-mm-midmotor-2wd-rtr-1-10-electric-buggy-ser500006/p451190 Both options are probably better than the discontinued 6.6. We haven't used the Serpent, but the AE we tested in this video was fantastic. -Brett
@@henrylicious go look at a kyosho RB6. Same chassis 4 different transmission options. Lay down, lay back, stand up and rear motor orientation without a chassis redesign.
I've been wanting to get into RC again after a 35 year break, but see almost everything is RTR these days (and Traxxas is now a good brand?). What's the deal with that? Most of the fun of RC was building them on your own.
We tried but our dirt track is configured for 1/8 and it's huge with the jumps far apart and I just couldn't get around it very well. Not the buggies fault though. With the right dirt tires, the RB10 rip on a 1/10 dirt track. -Brett
Thats what I run mine on its a clay track called "the track" in Gaithersburg maryland. The stock suspension is way too soft im hoping if I stiffen it the buggy will not bottom out. Its also hard to keep the front from dipping in mid air. No matter how much throttle you give front still dips in air.
@@GreatBirdOfHope sounds like with the soft suspension, the back of the chassis is slapping against the face of jumps causing it to nose dive in the air. One of my SCT’s had that problem and stiffer springs fixed it. I bet you can make it competitive with it tuned right for your track. Good luck!
@@JoeTheBlacksmith13 thank you im gonna try just that stronger springs and a 42 weight oil over the factory 30 weight. Any idea how many lbs the stock spring strength is? I've searched but still not sure. Associated sells springs in different hardness but im not sure what strength the stock are to go from there
How would you go about making the buggy respond better to throttle input on the air in a jump? Mine will not kick the front up with throttle. It just points down no matter what
Yeah, part of that is from the 2WD platform not having the same "snap" in the air as a 4WD vehicle will have. You can increase the effect by adding larger tires and also by hitting the jump at 50% power, so when you are in air you have more throttle to pull. If you hit the jump at 100% throttle, there is no more throttle to add when you are in the air - you need to save some rpm for when you're airborne. Hope that helps. -Brett
Versatile chassis, will make a good basher, nicely done AE! Sure you can race with it but AE is just re-purposing old technology - no way this will hang with a modern race buggy ✌
@@AMain_Hobbies Except these are clearly aimed at the beginner! And, what if the guy driving the modern car, also has mad driving skills? 😉 Mid engine cars have a huge advantage, especially on carpet.
I bought one of these and on 7 cell NIMH yes you just saw that, in hanging with dudes runnin lipos with more expensive buggy because I know the track well
I want to get this for a bday gift to myself, today is my bday. Any chance you could tell us the rear tire dimensions? Looked them up and couldn’t find specific numbers. Thanks
Yes and no for b5m stuff I have one and there's a few things but the tranny might be completely diffrent but the front ends seem very similar but it's better to try them with a grain of salt
What they meant to say were Schumacher cactus front, proline prism front.. I'd recommend Schumacher cactus rear, Schumacher cut stagger front, both in yellow compounds. The shot at 9:33 are not Schumacher fronts. If I'm wrong Brett, please send me a link to them and I'll buy them right now.
I have a DR10 and SR10 then I got another one of each of them. Then I swaped the parts on those ones to make the DR10 a Dirt Oval Racer and the SR10 a Drag car using some 3D printed parts to push the body out on the SR10 for tyre clearance. They make the car look like it put on weight with a fat rear end look to it and works well for it. Then I did the same with the Rat Rod Trophy Truck as they all use most of the same parts in them. With the DR10 Dirt Oval Racer I 3D Printed a smaller wheelie bar and used the wheels that a 3D Printer uses as they have bearings in them and they work really well for weelie bar wheels.
It should accept that since the velcro strap is used for fastening but it's hard to know for sure without double checking the battery box specs. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks for the reply. I've got a truck I'm selling on eBay and as soon as that goes I'll be picking up the RB10. I'll get a "smaller" 3S pack anyway but wokd just like to use what I currently have. If it doesn't fit then I guess I'll just have to get some longer velcro straps
I wish my community had an rc track again. But once the local hobby shop closed during the pandemic it was all over for the rc fun at the track. Damn, the pandemic ruined everything. Except for the super-rich.
31mph on 3S is kind of slow, I wonder what's the highest gearing you can put on it? My Bandit on stock gearing with 3.8 tires hits 39mph on 2S, hits 55mph+ on 3S.
No, it is normal buggy length. SCT's are longer than a buggy. For SCT length chassis, checkout the DR10 - www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-dr10-rtr-brushless-drag-race-car-purple-asc70028/p-qqqeqzwanczvqctz -Brett
I have a problem with this buggy. I turn it on and it doesn't work for a minute and it stops and the led that turns green on the ESC turns red and flashes, could someone help me with this problem?
According to the ESC manual, if the LED is blinking Red after turning on, the transmitter throttle and ESC need to be re-calibrated. You can find Throttle Calibration in the ESC manual; here is a digital copy: images.amainhobbies.com/images/resources/ASC29185/Manuals/1-ASC29185%20Reedy%20SC600BL%20ESC%20Manual.pdf -Brett
I was curious about this one, thanks for the review! At $399. I might recommend the Losi 22.5 roller as an alternative at $319. I know the losi would be more money completed but may be worth it for a race capable buggy that a new racer can learn on. Of course, you already know that 😀
@@AMain_Hobbies I race mine at playground rc yakima WA outdoor 1/8 scale. The rb10 can handle it. I slap chassis haaarrrrddd. I have only broke a body mount, a cv pin(odd caught it before a heat), and 3 wings racing this season and got a win with it out of durability. I did put a washer behind the tiny capture screws for the front arms and have had no issues. I also got a solid servo horn and ditched the servo saver that caused the wheels to be pointed in weird directions on landings. The rb10 right now is the best rtr buggy to get you into racing. By the time you upgrade the electrics you can drop it all in a b6.4 and be good enough to take advantage of the new buggy by the end of a race season.
@@unorec1983 Hey Nick, here's what they had to say: "According to Engineering, the chassis shape is almost identical to the RC10B4 / B4.2 chassis. I’m not sure if the body mounts will be exactly the same. If using Velcro to mount the bodies, most bodies that would fit the RC10B4 should fit this car." Hope this helps! -Brett
I think this is a fantastic car, but priced too high. This needs to be in the $250 range max. I love the B5 rear motor car. It would be fun to buy a roller RB10 and see how it competes with the old B5.
Buggies are cool
huh huh huh
I agree im about to get the Asuga XLR that huge 1/7 Buggy from Corally
@@EriMCardenasRC I don’t even remember writing that comment 🤣 that’s actually sick tho the 1/7 scales are so sick just so dang expensive haha
Glad to see an AE rear motor out again after MONTHS since the announcement
Perfect 1st buggy for people who are racing on old school untreated outdoor tracks. Completely upgradable too!
With a rear mounted motor, about the only type of track it will do well on 👍
@@jerryvolpini7987 - Also good for people who have old B4 race buggies, parts are difficult to find so a replacement has been needed for those of us who enjoy the older style 2WD race buggies. They make great bashers and are easy to repair.
@@jerryvolpini7987I’ve run my on carpet. It does ok and there’s a few more at the track that race. The owner, a sponsored driver, runs one too;). It’s better for dirt though.
@@jerryvolpini7987best track outdoors these is better than very more costly ones outdoors
The 10 minute mark when the buggy is rolling over super hard in the turns in slo mo 🤣🤣💪🏻💪🏻
Buggy has lot's of cake back there. 😂
It's good to see an Associated buggy that doesn't require an expensive shorty pack
the hobby needs more of these RTR and race capable right out of the box, I hope more manufacturers follow suit, but so that they can be more known races have to be done with these types and show that you can still have fun and compete without breaking the bank.
Great review all around. Thanks for the effort and detail! I’m looking to get back into the hobby from my original RC-10 Graphite. This gives me more confidence- for a beginner.
Great video, Brett.
My dad has the ProSC10 and he loves it(on 3s).
Love that Associated still use T style connectors
Your videos are always so informative!
We need a stadium truck version too
Always very detailed and informative. Love it!
If you're familiar with the SR10 dirt oval car, the DR10 drag car, the SC10, SCB10, and the RC10 B4. Then you'll be right at home and parts will work with your older Associated cars.
Great job with the test and the video 👍🏻
I think this'll be my next car.
I've been modifying the snot out of a Tamiya DT-02 Sand Viper. Might be time for something less sketchy at 50km/h+
Hi Brett, another awesome video man, the ideas you come up with are fantastic, i loved everything you did with the buggy especially the drag buggy, that literally had me in stitches, i laughed so hard my ribs hurt lol 😝.
😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Great entry car. For ages I’ve felt it’s to expensive and complicated to start off so RTR is a great way to start.
Stadium truck tires would be a better choice wouldn't it? But keep a eye on temperature of esc/motor.
Will they fit without rubbing? I was thinking the same thing but don't have any to try.
-Brett
sweet footage there at the end
Can you link this tire/wheel combo? I can’t find them.
Finaly I waiting so log for this Video. Well done
*long
Beadlocks often tear tires when the balloon. You create a pinch point where you squeeze the bead.
The track looks good can't wait to race on it
Nice review Amain!
This looks like a pretty sweet little buggy. I'd like to get into racing but the cost of the kits + electronics has to be close to $800+, at the very least. $320 is much easier to stomach.
That being said, one thing that's concerning is that, aren't 2WD Buggy race classes limited to 2S batteries? I have a Losi Mini-B with a brushless upgrade and the thing can clear huge 20+ foot jumps, but I'm pretty sure it could outrun this thing on 2S! I imagine a gearing swap is basically necessary if you are running this on anything with good sized jumps? Sure 3S will grant you far more punch and top speed but still, if you're limited to 2S for racing, it may not be enough? New to all of this, so am I making sense?
I’ve learned that speed capability does not win races.
Replying to my old comment - I ended up building a TLR 22X-4 and have been racing for about a year now and it's amazing. This car looks like a lot of fun though if you've got a turf or carpet track near you to do some ripping around. Definitely not something to race though, need to build a kit for that if you want to actually see the top 3 at any point.
EDIT: HAH and your name and channel is about the 22X-4. That's pretty funny man. Great car.
great review and demo.......
Got 2 of these for my boys, 5 and 7. was really impressed with them for the most part. had one show up with out any oil in the shock and the other had an issue with a few lose screws holding the motor mount to the transmission. Will you be doing a must have upgrades for this car.
Same issue with the sr10 quality control is not good
Hmm, I don't know. We'll have to see how our videos and the car progress.
-Brett
Yep. AE are great cars. But I agree, QC is crap. We have 2 B6.3s and a DR10. All three kits have defective, missing and incorrect parts. Defective meaning - parts were bent. Etc. Who ever bags these parts is a schmoe.
The shocks are pure crap on this way way too soft.
Looks sick 👍
Used to race in the 90s when the first rc10s and 10ts were very popular god i miss those times…this rb10 is absolutely beautiful though.
Ouch 😮
you all do a great job
Awesome video 👍 I'll definitely check the price point on this new buggy. Add it to the ol wishlist 😁 Question: do y'all ever get a chance to head out East for racing??
No, I haven't personally but have always wanted to.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies we have some great tracks here in GA 👍 just saying 😁
Growls in seductive RC gear whine noises. Haha!!!
Edit: The drag buggy is perfect. All you need is some paddle tires and a beach for some sand drag racing.
Also, I think this buggy is perfect with its versatility. I also have been needing a replacement for the B4 since parts are hard to come by now. 2WD buggy is my favorite RC car, they are fast, fun, challenging, and easy to work on. They make great bashers too!
You forgot to tell us the speeds, stock, with those bigger tires, and with the upgraded pinion or even a 3s. I know my B4 with 5400KV and 3s was insanely impossible but was a lot of fun to try. I don't think it could get over 50 without flipping back.
The drag buggy was pretty cool and someone else in the comments mentioned the short wheelbase Pinto drag body which I didn't even think of, but that would bolt right on there.
For speeds, we tested 2S and 3S with 20MPH and 31MPH respectively. Never tested different gearing, or the larger tires after we noticed they ripped.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies - Ayyy, thanks for responding. Means a lot!
This would make a great beginner 2WD buggy class as it isn't that expensive as a RTR. Is this compatible with a particular racing buggy previously released?
Rc10b5 based. Different chassis tub. Similar architecture.
awesome 👍👍
Awesome review
I got an old roller from like 2007 …. Can’t remember the name but it’s basically just an older model of the rb10 lol… I kinda want to build it sometime
Looks like my old b4, I wonder if this means I can revive it with parts now
The B5 series and everything after is metric, B4 is not.
I was seriously thinking about one of these to see what minimal conversion could be done to make it competitive. I have 22.5 roller which I never fell in love with. It drives too flat for me. but In return its fast. After seeing that carpet run , the back end looked really heavy. I know sway bars, shock adj and oil can fix, But for $335.00 , there's really no argument I can make to purchase over a standard AE race kit. I think AE needs to rethink that price point.
You've completely missed the point
Have you tried resetting the throttle calibration? It made the Reedy SC600-BL powered DN01 by Tamiya faster.
No we didn't but should have. Thanks for the idea.
-Brett
How long till they quit stocking spare parts for this one too?
This is a bandit killer!! I'm glad AE is getting into the basher side. About to shut Traxxas and arrma down. Give it time
It will never happen and it’s not an actual basher buggy it is closer to the racing side. None the less I will own one.
@@Sackmatters you realize basher doesn't mean better right? A kit version is better then any rtr lol. My associated sc10 sc5 amd sc6.1 is built better and way more durable then my slashs and rustler 4x4. A rtr is made with lower quality stuff to make it affordable for you so they can add the electronics. So for it to be closer to a race car is a good thing not a bad thing man haha. Traxxas amd arrma are toys compared to any race kit on the market not just associated.
@@jeffbryner5355 I’m well aware a kit is better that’s why I have a 22x4, b74.1d and two kit blitz short courses. I’ve been in this hobby for 17 years now. This car is a rtr. That’s why it’s only $335 rtr instead of $300 as a kit.
@@Sackmatters dang that's cheap. I see 349 for rtr amd 325 for the kit. Well being in the hobby you know then how it will kill the bandit
@@jeffbryner5355 track wise and performance it most definitely will. I don’t think it will be quit as durable in the gravel pit bashing scene but the handling will be much better. The bandit is on such an old platform it’s been outdated for a long time it’s just tough.
Nice video guys as usual ! Would you say this rtr from team asso is more competitive than the kyosho ultima rb6.6 ? I had the kyosho for 2 years but it is destroyed and not for sale anymore. I was thinking of this rb10 instead. This is for parking lot races and astro races. Or other rtr model to recommend maybe?
Thanks for your advice !
For a 2WD RTR 1/10 buggy, this RB10 or the Serpent SRX-2 are your options: www.amainhobbies.com/serpent-spyder-srx2-mm-midmotor-2wd-rtr-1-10-electric-buggy-ser500006/p451190
Both options are probably better than the discontinued 6.6. We haven't used the Serpent, but the AE we tested in this video was fantastic.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks for the advice 👍
Why would they not put a 17.5 motor in it?
I've been waiting for an rtr
Do I have to change pinion to use 3s? I drive like grandmas.
Amazing 🤩
Why not a B6 rtr? AE have one of if not the best 2wd buggy why put this out?
Rear motor is better if you arent racing.
@@mr.irrelevant3588 they could have made a rear motor case just like the RB 6.6/7 series from kyosho.
@@jamesmccabe8736 Easier to make a new center tub chassis on a proven platform, then it is to re engineer the current platform.
@@henrylicious go look at a kyosho RB6. Same chassis 4 different transmission options. Lay down, lay back, stand up and rear motor orientation without a chassis redesign.
Amazing I like your video friend rc buggy 1/10 👍
I've been wanting to get into RC again after a 35 year break, but see almost everything is RTR these days (and Traxxas is now a good brand?). What's the deal with that? Most of the fun of RC was building them on your own.
With a rear motor setup the body design should have more of a B3 styled body with the cab towards the rear wing.
Then everyone like you would complain that they're just trying to sell old products.
@@murrijuana2842 I'd be happy with a something that looks like a buggy instead of a truggy with buggy wheels.
The stock B5 body is a very cab forward design. Maybe you're thinking about something more like a B3 / early B4.
@@will5879 yes you're right. B3 early B4 bodies.
@@will5879 just fixed my comment.
What class would this fall in? Stock buggy? Or Novice class?
This buggy really makes a good figure for the money. I am seriously considering it.
Great video but I would have really liked to see it on a low bite dirt track. Seems like it would be most at home there.
I was hoping they would run it on their dirt track not just the parking lot of their dirt track
We tried but our dirt track is configured for 1/8 and it's huge with the jumps far apart and I just couldn't get around it very well. Not the buggies fault though. With the right dirt tires, the RB10 rip on a 1/10 dirt track.
-Brett
Thats what I run mine on its a clay track called "the track" in Gaithersburg maryland. The stock suspension is way too soft im hoping if I stiffen it the buggy will not bottom out. Its also hard to keep the front from dipping in mid air. No matter how much throttle you give front still dips in air.
@@GreatBirdOfHope sounds like with the soft suspension, the back of the chassis is slapping against the face of jumps causing it to nose dive in the air. One of my SCT’s had that problem and stiffer springs fixed it. I bet you can make it competitive with it tuned right for your track. Good luck!
@@JoeTheBlacksmith13 thank you im gonna try just that stronger springs and a 42 weight oil over the factory 30 weight. Any idea how many lbs the stock spring strength is? I've searched but still not sure. Associated sells springs in different hardness but im not sure what strength the stock are to go from there
To bad it didn't land that double flip clean, would have been epic!!
Buen video del Rc Buggy!
A 23 tooth pinion gear really wakes this buggy up
How would you go about making the buggy respond better to throttle input on the air in a jump? Mine will not kick the front up with throttle. It just points down no matter what
Yeah, part of that is from the 2WD platform not having the same "snap" in the air as a 4WD vehicle will have. You can increase the effect by adding larger tires and also by hitting the jump at 50% power, so when you are in air you have more throttle to pull. If you hit the jump at 100% throttle, there is no more throttle to add when you are in the air - you need to save some rpm for when you're airborne. Hope that helps.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thing is I have an old school 2wd stadium truck I race at the track and I can get it to adjust in the air no problem all day.
Please go back and re-read what I said about bigger tires.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies i added thicker oil 42 weight over 30 and I added stuffer springs. Buggy jumps perfectly now
Versatile chassis, will make a good basher, nicely done AE! Sure you can race with it but AE is just re-purposing old technology - no way this will hang with a modern race buggy ✌
I don't know man, driving skills are pretty important. In the hands of a skilled driver, it would probably hold it's own.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Except these are clearly aimed at the beginner! And, what if the guy driving the modern car, also has mad driving skills? 😉 Mid engine cars have a huge advantage, especially on carpet.
@@jerryvolpini7987 you’re pretty serious about an RC toy hobby 🤭
I bought one of these and on 7 cell NIMH yes you just saw that, in hanging with dudes runnin lipos with more expensive buggy because I know the track well
I want to get this for a bday gift to myself, today is my bday. Any chance you could tell us the rear tire dimensions? Looked them up and couldn’t find specific numbers. Thanks
Happy bday!
If I’m able to I def want to get a buggy next. I just can’t do electric! Nitro addict.
Love💓 them both! I do
What Schumchaer racing carpet tires were used in this review?
We had it wrong with the fronts, they were Pro-Line Prisms but the rear tires were Schumacher Cactus.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks
Will the JConcepts RC10 protector body fit this chassis?
basically a rc10 b5 in a nutshell ......great i have parts thank you AE gonna scoop a few backup parts especially the body n rear tranny stuff
Yes and no for b5m stuff I have one and there's a few things but the tranny might be completely diffrent but the front ends seem very similar but it's better to try them with a grain of salt
Do they sell pin s for the front arms aswell please
Yes they do. Do you need the inner hinge pin at the chassis mount, our the outer hinge pin at the wheel hub/suspension arm?
-Brett
From experience with the servo saver change the servo saver to a servo horn.
What Schumacher front tyres or they on the carpet runs?
What they meant to say were Schumacher cactus front, proline prism front.. I'd recommend Schumacher cactus rear, Schumacher cut stagger front, both in yellow compounds.
The shot at 9:33 are not Schumacher fronts. If I'm wrong Brett, please send me a link to them and I'll buy them right now.
Erik is correct; the front tires are Prisms! My mistake.
-Brett
nice info brett
from malaysia✋🏻
I have a DR10 and SR10 then I got another one of each of them.
Then I swaped the parts on those ones to make the DR10 a Dirt Oval Racer and the SR10 a Drag car using some 3D printed parts to push the body out on the SR10 for tyre clearance.
They make the car look like it put on weight with a fat rear end look to it and works well for it.
Then I did the same with the Rat Rod Trophy Truck as they all use most of the same parts in them.
With the DR10 Dirt Oval Racer I 3D Printed a smaller wheelie bar and used the wheels that a 3D Printer uses as they have bearings in them and they work really well for weelie bar wheels.
That's gotta be one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while.
I hope the make a stadium truck . Please Team Associated do it
What is the run time?
What size motor does it have?
Can it take the taller lipo packs? I already have a big 6000 mAh 3S battery and wouldn't want to find it's useless in this buggy
It should accept that since the velcro strap is used for fastening but it's hard to know for sure without double checking the battery box specs.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks for the reply. I've got a truck I'm selling on eBay and as soon as that goes I'll be picking up the RB10. I'll get a "smaller" 3S pack anyway but wokd just like to use what I currently have. If it doesn't fit then I guess I'll just have to get some longer velcro straps
HOW for the love of god do you get the suspension to do that...
Debating if I want to buy one and run 21.5
Any chatter about a possible RT10? I'd buy a truck version
I wish my community had an rc track again. But once the local hobby shop closed during the pandemic it was all over for the rc fun at the track. Damn, the pandemic ruined everything. Except for the super-rich.
what mm is the hex ?
The wheel hex? That one requires a 7mm nut driver.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies no the one that the tire goes on. becuase i want to buy after market carpet tires
@@Colby400ex 12mm
-sid
@@Colby400ex Oh, that's 12mm for wheel fitment.
-Brett
What is the stock Tire diamter ?
RB10 Perfect for the Pinto No Prep Body
DANG! You're so right. That would have been awesome!
-Brett
I want to convert DR10 to off road use, what bodies fit & work best?
The chassis length is Short Course truck sized, so any standard SCT body should fit.
-Brett
That rock field was painful to watch on a little 1/10 buggy!!!
Top 10
Team Associated did NOT just release a 2WD Buggy for bashing. did they?
Yes
You could easily race this on a slippery / loose outdoor track with a couple of minor changes.... ball diff, etc.
Am i the only one to see a TRANSFORMER? 0:27 ...you are correct...it looks like one thing outside but on the inside....well.
Thanks Brett I'm no longer allowed at Walmart
Haha, sorry man. Locally, that's where the guys meet and race so it seemed fitting.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Seems any bit of fun over here on the east coast is frowned upon and must be stopped immediately.
@@RCfanAddict Really? That's not cool. Will looking unhappy while you r/c work?
-Brett
Brushless crawlers don't go 35mph...I can't believe he was surprised to see the tire rip
31mph on 3S is kind of slow, I wonder what's the highest gearing you can put on it? My Bandit on stock gearing with 3.8 tires hits 39mph on 2S, hits 55mph+ on 3S.
Not about speed. This is a kit to get you into racing RC.
Is it a normal sct length
No, it is normal buggy length. SCT's are longer than a buggy. For SCT length chassis, checkout the DR10 - www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-dr10-rtr-brushless-drag-race-car-purple-asc70028/p-qqqeqzwanczvqctz
-Brett
ill be going up to amain store and track next year... better have a burrito for me 🌯😅
Nice! Better have a burrito for me!
-Brett
I have a problem with this buggy. I turn it on and it doesn't work for a minute and it stops and the led that turns green on the ESC turns red and flashes, could someone help me with this problem?
According to the ESC manual, if the LED is blinking Red after turning on, the transmitter throttle and ESC need to be re-calibrated. You can find Throttle Calibration in the ESC manual; here is a digital copy: images.amainhobbies.com/images/resources/ASC29185/Manuals/1-ASC29185%20Reedy%20SC600BL%20ESC%20Manual.pdf
-Brett
I want this car just to relive 2011.
I was curious about this one, thanks for the review! At $399. I might recommend the Losi 22.5 roller as an alternative at $319. I know the losi would be more money completed but may be worth it for a race capable buggy that a new racer can learn on. Of course, you already know that 😀
@William Perri yep you're right! My eyes must have been playing tricks on me last night!
@William Perri your life must be very confusing
We need a part 2 at silver dollar
The 1/8 track is a little too big and gnarly for this little buggy.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies oh, got it, well maybe you could look at the serpent srx8e rtr or the kyosho rtr 1/8 bugy and take them out to silver dollar
@@AMain_Hobbies there is no such thing as too big or too gnarly in the rc world
@@AMain_Hobbies I race mine at playground rc yakima WA outdoor 1/8 scale. The rb10 can handle it. I slap chassis haaarrrrddd. I have only broke a body mount, a cv pin(odd caught it before a heat), and 3 wings racing this season and got a win with it out of durability. I did put a washer behind the tiny capture screws for the front arms and have had no issues. I also got a solid servo horn and ditched the servo saver that caused the wheels to be pointed in weird directions on landings. The rb10 right now is the best rtr buggy to get you into racing. By the time you upgrade the electrics you can drop it all in a b6.4 and be good enough to take advantage of the new buggy by the end of a race season.
Anyone found clear body's for this.
We have 5 or 6 people running these at our local track so being able to paint a body would help tell cars apart
Good question Nick. I just emailed Team Associated asking about alternate bodies and fitment.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thank
@@unorec1983 Hey Nick, here's what they had to say: "According to Engineering, the chassis shape is almost identical to the RC10B4 / B4.2 chassis. I’m not sure if the body mounts will be exactly the same. If using Velcro to mount the bodies, most bodies that would fit the RC10B4 should fit this car."
Hope this helps!
-Brett
any chance we will see a truck version of this like an rc10t
This guy makes me want to stick ice picks in my eyes
T style connector aka Dean's plug 🔌
That's a RC10 B4. So Team Associated has just relaunched an almost 20 year old car. Also AVC is illegal in racing.
B5
@@henrylicious Oh yes your right. I forgot that the B5 originally came out as rear motor.
4:55
Not an WP receiver box..i wonder why.. 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑
I think this is a fantastic car, but priced too high. This needs to be in the $250 range max. I love the B5 rear motor car. It would be fun to buy a roller RB10 and see how it competes with the old B5.
You don't know what you're talking about.