How to tell you are watching a South Main Auto video: 1. Great Camera Angles and Lighting 2. BRAKE CLEANER! 3. Dropped Fasterners 4. Quirky Sayings (1-2-Barbecue, Shebang, etc...) 5. Occasionally knocking the camera over (weee!) This video hit em all, except bumping the camera. Haha. Great stuff Eric. I am glad to see this stuff is easy to do, but I imagine it is scary when something breaks off or when threads go missing from the block itself. I guess if you keep a calm head and use your brain, almost anything can be fixed. Thanks for the video!
Just did an oil drain bolt on my honda ATV, this is by far the best helicoil video I've seen. Watched a few b4 I did it just to refresh myself, did them on molds all the time ten years ago.... I used red locktite on the helicoil itself and let that setup, in a through hole I was worried about it threading out with the drain plug... Cheers and thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos!
Not only are you a skilled and professional mechanic, you could also be a teacher; you always explain things clearly and concisely. Keep up the great work/videos.
Glad you mentioned backtracking the tap to break away the curls. That's the drawback of the so-called "power tapping" you see on so many machinist videos.
I had to heli-coil one of the brake caliper thread holes one day on my sisters car(The previous owner just stuck a bolt in that kind of fitted...It undid very easily I may add),I bought the kit of ebay and very easy to use,what a life saver they are .I always thought they were for a repair but my father here in the UK used to work for a Vickers as a toolmaker engineer ,they made bombers -fighter attack aircraft etc and said that heli-coils were used from new on some applications in aluminium blocks etc as it was far stronger .
It almost seems like to error on the side of caution, that you would use the Loctite on the heli coil instead of the bolt but what do I know, I've never done this type of fix. Good job as always. We always learn from you.
One of the best Helicoil videos I've seen. From start to finish answered every question I would have about the process. I have 2 valve cover bolts that sheared off that I still need to fix. Will be using this video as a primer when the time comes. Two thumbs up.
South Main Auto Repair Actually that brings up 1 question I have about selecting the right drill bits. The one I tried broke in half and shot inside the head somewhere. Yes I have half a drillbit in my head somewhere. In hindsight I should have covered the head with some rags or something. That was 2 years ago so I think I'm ok :P
@L Smith Those holes WERE in the block dummy, he even said they were otherwise the right way would be to replace the parts the holes were in. It must be terrible being a dummy
@@gibsonn14 Yer being pretty kind just saying Dummy. Hes an idiot scammer mechanic if at all. So he thinks the customer should wait 2 more days for their car and pay an extra $1400 for Eric to install a whole new block for 2 power steering pump bolts? BAH HA HA HA!!! As bugs bunny would say "What a marooooon"
Definitely the video I needed! Four bolts on a power steering pump on a airport tug are stripped. I have never done this before. Your videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!👊💪
+Joe Milton because I don't make main stream videos for mindless people... most people don't want to watch this stuff. They wanna watch guys like Chrisfix who shows you how to take bugs off your car and clean headlights with tooth paste haha. That fits a mainstream audience a lot more than what I do. I just can't bring myself to that level just to make a few extra bucks on YT haha
Well keep doin what you're doin brother, this is some of the best stuff out there in my opinion. I love the repairs, the troubleshooting, and just how genuine of a person you seem to be.
The dreaded broken bolts & stripped/crossed thread. Bane of every backyard mechanic. Your videos are the best Eric! I like to do my own work & I don't trust most mechanics to be as thorough or thoughtful as you or how one would want their own vehicle repaired. As a novice at most repairs, your videos teach the right way & are simple to follow. Much appreciated bud.
Outstanding. I actually stripped the oil cooler lines mounting plate on my LS1. I measured the depth the same way which had about 1/2 or so inch more ok thread. Purchased longer same threaded studs and drove them in with locktite till they bottomed out. Secured oil cooler plate with nuts and lock washers and havent had a problem. Would only do this on my POV's. Its a scotty kilmer move but it worked. ahah
Great video, Eric! It's nice to hear your TH-cam videos are bringing in work from *hours* away! About 20 years ago- I owned a '76 Century. It was a "Bicentennial Buick" in that it had a white body, red vinyl top, blue engine. It was made back with the OPEC embargo in mind- and had a 231ci V6 with a 2bbl Rochester. The fuel pump died. While replacing it- both mounting bolts came out with powdered aluminum as thread remnants. I pulled the timing cover (fuel pump is mounted to it) only to discover the wonderfully economical *nylon* cam sprocket was also badly worn, waiting to kill the engine on failure. I did the Heli-Coil repair for the fuel pump- and 1 of the cover bolts as well, and replaced the entire timing set "while in there".
South Main Auto Repair Told ya- been doing this stuff a long time (37 years). Those inserts are _usually_ made of tungsten, and are tapered pipe threaded. I usually just (if possible) run the tool down all the way- until it's notch snaps off the tang (old original directions). That *RED* Loctite is very much overkill- and is probably what stripped out that cast aluminum in the first place. With a proper unsprung split washer- I can't see a need for thread locker in that application. I highly doubt that Boxer would do that either; you probably weren't the first wrench in there.
South Main Auto Repair How often have you had to do that thread repair because of the Loctite in the cast aluminum? Sometimes- it will wick into porous metals and tear the threads out. It does look like that "Factory" _orange_ stuff- not the commercial red or blue normally used. Very strange.
Another awesome, straightforward instructional video, Eric. I'm here learning how to use Helicoil for the first time. I managed to pull the thread from a valve cover mount in the head of a 2000 Honda Accord. Of course, the hole I must repair is the most difficult to access--just above cylinder one, and clearance is an issue. So while the Helicoil procedure isn't especially complicated, repairing some holes can be due entirely to access issues. I guess I'm stuck now trying to learn whatever techniques exist to perform a thread repair on a hole where there's minimal tool access. Bleh...
I have used the Time-Sert for the drain plug on my mc 13 years ago, and I've haven't had a single drop of oil coming out or any problems with the bolt since. So yes they are expensive but worth every penny.
Great video.... between this one and one of your others (on the cooling system) you have saved me over $1,000 in repairs. Thanks so much for your time !!
What I can say to you today is many THANKS for all your time, for all your very valuable time. I always learn something good from you. thank you one more time from TIJUANA Mexico!!
Nice repair. I don't use loctite on the inserts either. I've never had a problem with them backing out. Knock on wood, I can't remember the last time I had to use a heli coil, nor do I want to.
The insert tool actually reduces the diameter of the springy Helicoil, so when it is removed the coil expands into the hole threads and that holds it in place - no Loctite needed.
It's not that you are behind in your work, its more like the best mechanic in the neighborhood is just capturing all the customers. If you are good at you do, work finds it way to you.
Was interesting watching this and the Stripped/Blown out plug video, which btw it was brilliant to see Mrs O, little one and yourself as a family, so sweet! Even though I'm new to your channel, and watching the videos in no real order, it's been like watching your family (and your dogs) grow up really quickly! lol!. So anyway, my son has a motorcycle where someone in the past (unbeknown to us at purchase) passed the machine to us knowing they had a crack at the side of the sump plug, with the sump plug having PTFE tape wrapped around it. Course, this was only noticed because of a new oil puddle, and looking inside the sump plug threads it's clear to see there's a Helicoil which hasn't been done correctly as it's not been seated level with the bottom of the sump. No thread lock was used given this is a fluid area (this is a plus for me), so with fluid also leaking out the crack at the side I've decided it's best to remove the old Helicoil, keeping the tapped threads in good condition, then clean and seal the small crack (which is the main thing), so I can then put in a new Helicoil with red thread lock, let that set, then getting a proper copper crush washer (not the steel one that was on there), and tightening it up, and whilst I'm confident of doing the basic job, I found the combined advice in these two videos very informative and helpful., thank you for sharing your knowledge so us home mechanics can have a bit of a heads up with tips and tricks to avoid potential pitfalls.
Don't know what you're talking about but a helicoil is NC threads. Threads even with locktite are not waterproof. You need a gasket or NPT threads, aka Pipe thread
Thank you, thank you, thank you, for taking the time to make this video. I just replace the PS pump on my '07 Forester and the same thing happened to me. Pretty sure it was my fault, since I felt it go past tight and then I couldn't get it tight at all. Threads came out with the bolt just like they did for you. I was sooo bummed about this, since it is the freaking engine block after all. I feel so much better after watching this video, I can fix this, I just need to buy a kit and take my time and be careful. Appreciate you man!
So I finally got it fixed... on the third try. Bought a fix-a-thread kit from the local autozone and a 21/64 drill bit from Lowes. However, I couldn't fit a drill, even with a 90 degree adapter on it, between the block and the fan shroud. For the second try I bought a stub drill bit online and a air ratchet with a drill chuck adapter and I still couldn't get it to fit. 3rd times the charm, I hand filed the back side of the stub 21/64 drill bit into a rough hex shape and jammed it into a socket and then used a 1/4" drive ratchet to drill out the old threads. Then I used a small crescent wrench to turn the tap. Thread kit worked great and I am much relieved that it's fixed and all the bolts are in place. I did find some torque specs in the Forester shop manual for those lower bolts. In the general description document in the power steering section there is a diagram where those bolts are marked T7. There is table that follows with the torque specs. The max torque on those lower bolts are only 15.9 ft-lb, which is not much. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.
@@JohnUllrey Thank you for taking the time to post this follow-up to your dilemma, John. I must repair thread on a hole that provides ZERO clearance for all the required tools. It's likely I'll have to mimic your solution and file down the drill, tap, and the insert tool--basically destroy a kit--to customize it for this repair. This is an expensive, time-consuming setback.
yes i think it was the thread lock which killed the threads in the holes or they had used thread lock to hold /.glue the bolt in previously as the thread was bad as the bolts all had split/locking/spring washers on the lock tight was not needed
I just had to do that with the two bolts that hold the EGR valve onto the aluminum manifold of my 1988 S10. Same bolt size as well. Those bolts had never been disturbed since the EGR was installed in December 1987. Likely over-torqued at the factory. I also replaced the bolts with longer ones (not blind holes), since less than 1/4" was actually threaded into the manifold.
Good job Dr! I tell you,it's that loctite that messes up the threads when you try to take the bolts out. I might be wrong on this,but I personally do not see the usefulness of loctite on the bolts that hold the power steering pump.
Nice job I prefer to leave the tap in the hole blow chips out the flutes especially before removing tap have had chips jam in tap even though I had backed it up lube tap after blowing out and finish tapping you do a great job probably don’t need my input .We can still learn something I’m 72 in November still wrenching but would like to sell my shop
Best coil video if seen. Excellent job Eric. I loved the shot of tightening the bolts. The way you went through that I think even ETCG could get it right. Lol. Just kidding..... But very good tutorial. I use them all the time. I tried the cheap online coils and they just don't hold up. Spend the money and use the right tools for the repair. Glad to see you using the Milwaukee tools. We use the crap out of ours.
Hey Eric!!!...I just want to say Hello!!! I am a new suscriptor!!!!...Congratulations for your job and Thank you for sharing your knowledge and teach us how to do things!!!!..... I enjoy too much the way you explain things, very clear, and straight forward!!!... but above all, thank you for all the help that your videos provides!!!!.....keep up, we follow!!!!
Nice repair! I would hate to guess all the heli-coil kits I bought in my past being a maintenance general supervisor of a large automotive component division. We bought them like kids do candy. They are a great product.
I Was at Autozone five months ago and brought a couple of ecoplugs $9.99 for my vehicles including the magnetic removal tool $9.99not only did ecoplug resolve my stripped oil pan problem on one vehicle on my other I installed it to make changing my oil better.I can literally drain my oil and reinstall the ecoplugs in a second without getting covered in oil.Word to the wise these ecoplugs have extremely strong magnets when using removal tool to remove ecoplug slide the tool off.
According to the Subaru factory service manual, those bracket bolts get tightened to 15.9 ft-lbs of torque. Shoot me a message if you want any of the FSMs, the spec was in one of their "general description" sections with the power steering pump assembly.
I had to use those to fix that same problem on my subie. Same problem but it was on the waterpump bolts. Been driving it now for another 50k miles with no issues
Eric, Love your videos. I do all my own work cuz I don't trust anyone to fix my vehicles. (and your too far away to visit ) However, I have extensive experience with Heli-Coils and just want to let you know you should NEVER use Loctite on Helicoils. The reason being is if you have to remove the bolt in a week/month/year the coil will Usually come out with the bolt. It appears you used Purple which is the low strength formula so you might get away with it. The reason the coils go in with resistance is they are wound oversize to the bore/thread and shrink/compress as you wind them in. You correctly wound them in past the end ( one turn is usually good ) which allows the sharp edge on the outside end of the coil to bite into the parent metal. This and the friction of the coil trying to expand in the hole keeps them securely in the hole. Not a criticism, just have years of experience with these things.
Hey, I was wondering if the tang on heli-coil end could pose a problem if it is not broken from the stem using the right tool. I fear the stub of the tang could snag on the bolt and unwind the heli-coil when the bolt is removed in the future.
@@narseh123 the biggest danger of leaving the tang, is that when you thread the bolt in the Tang can get underneath the thread of the bolt and damaged both the bolt and the helicoil. Coming back out the Tang would be causing the coil to expand and stick harder in the bore so it won't let it back out. All you need is a pair of thin needle nose pliers or a punch to go in and snap the Tang off.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Thanks for the reply. What the mechanics I have talked to fear the most is that heli-coils used in cylinder heads retract on next repair job. In fact, I read an article by Loctite which suggested applying loctite 2620 thread locker to the helicoil and letting it cure for 24 hours before inserting the bolt. Rust and corrosion can also be a risk factor causing the helicoil to back out with the bolt on.
Heli-coil leaves the repair stronger than original, particularly when used in aluminum. The threads gripping the base metal are now of larger diameter which can handle more pressure than the previous sized threads. In addition, there is a large amount of friction induced into the threads during the final tightening which is now imposed on the insert rather than the base metal. As far as the "to thread lock or not to thread lock" topic I know from experience that you should NOT thread lock them into place unless using a solid threaded insert such as a time-cert.
I say the Reason for the Hole/Threads failed was "DO" to the fact that the Lock-Tite was too far up on the bolts and did Not help protect the treads. (Metal on Aluminum with no protectant, especially around heat will DESTROY the Aluminum/Threads) Hence, had the Lock-Tite been applied correctly, I do not believe the threads would have failed. Great Video and thanks for sharing.
Good video. I’ve also thought about putting thread-locker on helli-coils but have never actually done it. My worry is that the thread locker would bond between the coil and the threaded hole, as well as between the coil and the bolt. So if you ever had to remove the bolt the coil might come out with it. Not sure if that would ever happen, but ya never know I guess.
I actually had a Ford Explorer 5.0 come in that had 2 Heli-Coils in the heads. When I had to remove the passengers side head the hell-coils came out with the head bolts. The previous repairer had put a "big glob" of red locktite on them. Don't know if it was the amount he used or just that he used it. I stopped putting Locktite on my coils after that.
ZThank you for this video, I used the instructions to repair my 2011 C300 stripped Klerk pulley housing. Needless to say, I saved a lot of money. Thank you for sharing.
I would not use loctite on a helicoiled thread. May be on the helicoil itself then anti-seize on the bolt. The torque of a bolt goes by it's size and into the metal the threads are going into. Google the bolt or stud size and into which metal and you will find an answer.....
Dude, now that you're an M18 guy you need these: Milwaukee 2615-20 right angle cordless drill and 0880-20 M18 vacuum cleaner. The right angle drill has great speed control, unlike the air tool, and the vacuum cleaner has excellent suction to pick up all of those chips. They cost $99 each at Toolup. Talk to me and I'll handle the batteries.
+South Main Auto Repair I like both of them too much and I've only got one of each (that's different than normal). Might be able to supply an XC battery for the vacuum however. The compact batteries you have for the impacts will work on the right angle drill just fine but the vacuum is a power hog. For that you need the XC battery.
I use Heli's all the time on airplane engines. If you didn't know, airplane engines are split case type engines and on Lycoming's we actually use thread to hold oil in the case where it splits. But I use heli coils on the cases or accessories that bolt to the engine. They are a great invention in my opinion
I've got an over heating problem and I would like you to look at my truck. I'll drop it off. I'm leaving a Calif in about 15 minutes. Just want an estimate. haha thanks another great video.
Easy peasy if you know what you're doing.. like others have said, I was surprised to see you put red loctite on the bolts and not the helicoils, but then again, the stuff probably spread itself all over anyway. Cheerz
I’ve done a lot of thread repairs to aluminium and find baerfix inserts to be a far superior product to helicoils especially if there’s a likelihood of dismantling later. Helicoils aren’t really good in softer materials as the pitch can start to pull a bit after a few cycles of tightening even to the correct torque. Check out BAERFIX INSERT for a different option. Also if you have a lathe you can drill and tap a larger fastener to the original size slot it for a screwdriver then tap the hole to the bigger fastener size, loctite the custom insert in which won’t pull the pitch when tightened. Pulled me out of a hole many times when I couldn’t wait on a kit. Smallest insert I ever fit is M2 into delrin.
Great video! Those heli-coils are so expensive. I got a crash course in fixing stripped holes when I was replacing a motor mount for the first time, and one of the holes going into the body/frame got stripped out. I went out and got a tap and die set, and used the next higher bolt size, which luckily fit through the hole on the motor mount. But I had to do a lot of running around to find a matching combination of tap and bolt in the right size and thread pitch. Of course, the tap and die set was more expensive (Irwin) but it'll be a better value in the long run I hope.
+anti0918 You can do this trick once in awhile but Heli-coils aren't expensive at all compared to Time-Serts. THOSE are expensive. Most of the time you can't use the larger bolt as the part your fastening can't be drilled out (like a water pump) also the Heli-coil's are stainless steel and typically hold better than the aluminum they are going into. A lot of aluminum parts come with Heli-coils pre installed into the aluminum simply because they hold better than the base metal.
SATAMAN Schmidt Thanks for the information, that does make sense. Definitely if a larger bolt won't fit through the part, and you can't drill it out, then the helicoil is the way to go.
***** That's good to know. But I didn't even anticipate needing them until it was too late to order online and wait for shipping. The kits in Autozone were like $30 for just a few coils.
Used maybe 5-6 on cars in my career, but at least a 100 on motorcycles. When I would use on a bike I would use loctite sleeve retainer and then let it set for a few hours then use antiseize on the bolt. Looks like red loctite on those front bolts.
Subaru timing belt video: Step 1, strip down engine, step 2, replace main bearings, crank bearings, rear main seal, clutch fork, head gaskets, and valve cover gaskets, step 3, replacing timing belt, step 4, question why you spend more than what the car is worth because it's a "Subbie" step 5, cry, step 6, buy a real car.
I've got the same model & year Outback (white too), bought new, and found same exact problem when changing PS pump. tks for the tutorial! disappointing Subaru hasn't stepped up , esp ref head gaskets
Awesome I've had to use those types also on alternators and cast iron trannys for air shift valves and on the primary and secondary bearing caps when a driver corkscrews the main shaft in a spicer 8
Hi Eric, great video! On the one you used loctite, does that coil stay in place if you remove the bolt in the future? Seems like the coil would stick to the bolt? Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I search all over the TH-cam for this specific job. I over tighten my fill hole on my rear differential. The bolt just spins but won’t get tighter and it won’t come out either when I tried to unscrew it. Not sure how I can get the “stripped” bolt out.
Good Job good video. as i have to do an insert for a head bolt on a Harley shovelhead 1976, and it might already have one in it with a wrong thread count with a non-original bolt.
Great tutorial! (I know I'm a little late to to the party.) What about putting an inline regulator between shop air and the drill to slow it down when you are starting?
Thanks so much bro. Ive been skeptical as fuck about info going around these days. Good to see some old fashioned values at work. Just found my 93 bronco yolk flange completely stripped when i went to replace my u joints. Buddy told me to research some heliocoils. Not sure if its the proper way to go about it but i cant find a yolk flange for my truck anywhere so. Gonna give these things a try soon. My old yolk flange was legit held on by locktight for over 20 years on a stripped flange lol.
Hey Eric I was wondering if maybe those bolts were too short/wrong ones. The hole was way deeper than the bolt poking through the pump body. Maybe that's why they failed. Cheers, great vid.
I was torquing to spec and the threads came right out on the idler pully bolt hole. Repaired using a thread sert. Found out that I could have replaced the bracket last year for less, and that it was common enough. lol However, had the issue happen again this Saturday while torquing to spec, never got close, just kept spinning, so I with the kit I had before for time serts, replaced the threads, no issues.
Man I'm a Heating and Air guy and I find myself pulling off parts that make the fix easier rather than just finesse. I find at the end of the day I am just as efficient. LOL
How to tell you are watching a South Main Auto video:
1. Great Camera Angles and Lighting
2. BRAKE CLEANER!
3. Dropped Fasterners
4. Quirky Sayings (1-2-Barbecue, Shebang, etc...)
5. Occasionally knocking the camera over (weee!)
This video hit em all, except bumping the camera. Haha.
Great stuff Eric. I am glad to see this stuff is easy to do, but I imagine it is scary when something breaks off or when threads go missing from the block itself. I guess if you keep a calm head and use your brain, almost anything can be fixed. Thanks for the video!
+Pete Gaytan III Haha way it put it Pete. You got it right on though. Keep Calm! Rule # 5 or 6
You forgot the "WHOA!!!"
That's the funniest part man!
You forgot the constant phone and door ringing in the background.
"Whoa!!!!"
"there's your problem lady". My personal favorite.
Just did an oil drain bolt on my honda ATV, this is by far the best helicoil video I've seen. Watched a few b4 I did it just to refresh myself, did them on molds all the time ten years ago.... I used red locktite on the helicoil itself and let that setup, in a through hole I was worried about it threading out with the drain plug... Cheers and thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos!
+Rick James Just did a drain plug myself today too! Used a Time Sert In that one though
Not only are you a skilled and professional mechanic, you could also be a teacher; you always explain things clearly and concisely. Keep up the great work/videos.
Glad you mentioned backtracking the tap to break away the curls. That's the drawback of the so-called "power tapping" you see on so many machinist videos.
I had to heli-coil one of the brake caliper thread holes one day on my sisters car(The previous owner just stuck a bolt in that kind of fitted...It undid very easily I may add),I bought the kit of ebay and very easy to use,what a life saver they are .I always thought they were for a repair but my father here in the UK used to work for a Vickers as a toolmaker engineer ,they made bombers -fighter attack aircraft etc and said that heli-coils were used from new on some applications in aluminium blocks etc as it was far stronger .
It almost seems like to error on the side of caution, that you would use the Loctite on the heli coil instead of the bolt but what do I know, I've never done this type of fix. Good job as always. We always learn from you.
One of the best Helicoil videos I've seen. From start to finish answered every question I would have about the process. I have 2 valve cover bolts that sheared off that I still need to fix. Will be using this video as a primer when the time comes. Two thumbs up.
+DJDevon3 Cool , hey if I can do it you can do it right
South Main Auto Repair Actually that brings up 1 question I have about selecting the right drill bits. The one I tried broke in half and shot inside the head somewhere. Yes I have half a drillbit in my head somewhere. In hindsight I should have covered the head with some rags or something. That was 2 years ago so I think I'm ok :P
Well hid sight is always 20/20 right lol Years hmmm.... hope you it doesn't "show up" soon
That lady brought her Subaru to the right place for repair!
+ICU2 :) Thanks
Brake trailer check
@L Smith Those holes WERE in the block dummy, he even said they were otherwise the right way would be to replace the parts the holes were in. It must be terrible being a dummy
@@gibsonn14 Yer being pretty kind just saying Dummy. Hes an idiot scammer mechanic if at all. So he thinks the customer should wait 2 more days for their car and pay an extra $1400 for Eric to install a whole new block for 2 power steering pump bolts? BAH HA HA HA!!! As bugs bunny would say "What a marooooon"
@L Smith when done properly these repairs last for as long as the car last,way cheaper too.
You are an idiot
Another excellent video. Best helicoil tutorial that I've seen.
+Jeffrey Cardimen Thanks Jeff
👍
Definitely the video I needed! Four bolts on a power steering pump on a airport tug are stripped. I have never done this before. Your videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!👊💪
I can't figure out how you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. It's just a matter of time at this point.
+Joe Milton because I don't make main stream videos for mindless people... most people don't want to watch this stuff. They wanna watch guys like Chrisfix who shows you how to take bugs off your car and clean headlights with tooth paste haha. That fits a mainstream audience a lot more than what I do. I just can't bring myself to that level just to make a few extra bucks on YT haha
Well keep doin what you're doin brother, this is some of the best stuff out there in my opinion. I love the repairs, the troubleshooting, and just how genuine of a person you seem to be.
The dreaded broken bolts & stripped/crossed thread. Bane of every backyard mechanic. Your videos are the best Eric! I like to do my own work & I don't trust most mechanics to be as thorough or thoughtful as you or how one would want their own vehicle repaired. As a novice at most repairs, your videos teach the right way & are simple to follow. Much appreciated bud.
Outstanding. I actually stripped the oil cooler lines mounting plate on my LS1. I measured the depth the same way which had about 1/2 or so inch more ok thread. Purchased longer same threaded studs and drove them in with locktite till they bottomed out. Secured oil cooler plate with nuts and lock washers and havent had a problem. Would only do this on my POV's. Its a scotty kilmer move but it worked. ahah
+nonayou damnbusiness Haha come on now, Scotty wouldn't have done that lol
Great video, Eric! It's nice to hear your TH-cam videos are bringing in work from *hours* away! About 20 years ago- I owned a '76 Century. It was a "Bicentennial Buick" in that it had a white body, red vinyl top, blue engine. It was made back with the OPEC embargo in mind- and had a 231ci V6 with a 2bbl Rochester. The fuel pump died. While replacing it- both mounting bolts came out with powdered aluminum as thread remnants. I pulled the timing cover (fuel pump is mounted to it) only to discover the wonderfully economical *nylon* cam sprocket was also badly worn, waiting to kill the engine on failure. I did the Heli-Coil repair for the fuel pump- and 1 of the cover bolts as well, and replaced the entire timing set "while in there".
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Man that is some flashbacks there. I can't recall the last time I heard some one say 231 haha or 2 barrel for that matter
South Main Auto Repair Told ya- been doing this stuff a long time (37 years).
Those inserts are _usually_ made of tungsten, and are tapered pipe threaded. I usually just (if possible) run the tool down all the way- until it's notch snaps off the tang (old original directions).
That *RED* Loctite is very much overkill- and is probably what stripped out that cast aluminum in the first place. With a proper unsprung split washer- I can't see a need for thread locker in that application.
I highly doubt that Boxer would do that either; you probably weren't the first wrench in there.
Well I do a couple of these Subaru's a month and that bolt is always loctited , not sure why but it is...
South Main Auto Repair How often have you had to do that thread repair because of the Loctite in the cast aluminum? Sometimes- it will wick into porous metals and tear the threads out. It does look like that "Factory" _orange_ stuff- not the commercial red or blue normally used. Very strange.
I run across it here and ther but not really often.
I can tell you've stripped quite a few bolt holes in your day... A connoisseur of thread repair kits... INTENSE~!!!
Another awesome, straightforward instructional video, Eric.
I'm here learning how to use Helicoil for the first time. I managed to pull the thread from a valve cover mount in the head of a 2000 Honda Accord. Of course, the hole I must repair is the most difficult to access--just above cylinder one, and clearance is an issue. So while the Helicoil procedure isn't especially complicated, repairing some holes can be due entirely to access issues. I guess I'm stuck now trying to learn whatever techniques exist to perform a thread repair on a hole where there's minimal tool access. Bleh...
I have used the Time-Sert for the drain plug on my mc 13 years ago, and I've haven't had a single drop of oil coming out or any problems with the bolt since. So yes they are expensive but worth every penny.
Great video.... between this one and one of your others (on the cooling system) you have saved me over $1,000 in repairs. Thanks so much for your time !!
He's the best I've ever seen, I've never seen better even before TH-cam over decades ago😉👍He's a power House, Master Mechanic 💪
I wish he give us one on how to increase horsepower would be nice😉👍
Did this at school....many many years ago and had forgotten how to do it. Great little video, Eric..
A true master tech. Your town is lucky to have you.
What I can say to you today is many THANKS for all your time, for all your very valuable time. I always learn something good from you. thank you one more time from TIJUANA Mexico!!
Nice repair. I don't use loctite on the inserts either. I've never had a problem with them backing out. Knock on wood, I can't remember the last time I had to use a heli coil, nor do I want to.
The insert tool actually reduces the diameter of the springy Helicoil, so when it is removed the coil expands into the hole threads and that holds it in place - no Loctite needed.
Another excellent video Eric. Another things folks may not factor, the $$ you have tied up in shop supplies. But, you can’t function without them.
It's not that you are behind in your work, its more like the best mechanic in the neighborhood is just capturing all the customers. If you are good at you do, work finds it way to you.
Was interesting watching this and the Stripped/Blown out plug video, which btw it was brilliant to see Mrs O, little one and yourself as a family, so sweet! Even though I'm new to your channel, and watching the videos in no real order, it's been like watching your family (and your dogs) grow up really quickly! lol!. So anyway, my son has a motorcycle where someone in the past (unbeknown to us at purchase) passed the machine to us knowing they had a crack at the side of the sump plug, with the sump plug having PTFE tape wrapped around it. Course, this was only noticed because of a new oil puddle, and looking inside the sump plug threads it's clear to see there's a Helicoil which hasn't been done correctly as it's not been seated level with the bottom of the sump. No thread lock was used given this is a fluid area (this is a plus for me), so with fluid also leaking out the crack at the side I've decided it's best to remove the old Helicoil, keeping the tapped threads in good condition, then clean and seal the small crack (which is the main thing), so I can then put in a new Helicoil with red thread lock, let that set, then getting a proper copper crush washer (not the steel one that was on there), and tightening it up, and whilst I'm confident of doing the basic job, I found the combined advice in these two videos very informative and helpful., thank you for sharing your knowledge so us home mechanics can have a bit of a heads up with tips and tricks to avoid potential pitfalls.
Don't know what you're talking about but a helicoil is NC threads. Threads even with locktite are not waterproof. You need a gasket or NPT threads, aka Pipe thread
Thank you, thank you, thank you, for taking the time to make this video. I just replace the PS pump on my '07 Forester and the same thing happened to me. Pretty sure it was my fault, since I felt it go past tight and then I couldn't get it tight at all. Threads came out with the bolt just like they did for you. I was sooo bummed about this, since it is the freaking engine block after all. I feel so much better after watching this video, I can fix this, I just need to buy a kit and take my time and be careful. Appreciate you man!
So I finally got it fixed... on the third try. Bought a fix-a-thread kit from the local autozone and a 21/64 drill bit from Lowes. However, I couldn't fit a drill, even with a 90 degree adapter on it, between the block and the fan shroud. For the second try I bought a stub drill bit online and a air ratchet with a drill chuck adapter and I still couldn't get it to fit. 3rd times the charm, I hand filed the back side of the stub 21/64 drill bit into a rough hex shape and jammed it into a socket and then used a 1/4" drive ratchet to drill out the old threads. Then I used a small crescent wrench to turn the tap. Thread kit worked great and I am much relieved that it's fixed and all the bolts are in place. I did find some torque specs in the Forester shop manual for those lower bolts. In the general description document in the power steering section there is a diagram where those bolts are marked T7. There is table that follows with the torque specs. The max torque on those lower bolts are only 15.9 ft-lb, which is not much. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.
@@JohnUllrey Thank you for taking the time to post this follow-up to your dilemma, John. I must repair thread on a hole that provides ZERO clearance for all the required tools. It's likely I'll have to mimic your solution and file down the drill, tap, and the insert tool--basically destroy a kit--to customize it for this repair. This is an expensive, time-consuming setback.
Another great video! Based on my experience high strenght threadlocker in aluminium threads is usually a thread killer.
yes i think it was the thread lock which killed the threads in the holes or they had used thread lock to hold /.glue the bolt in previously as the thread was bad as the bolts all had split/locking/spring washers on the lock tight was not needed
I agree with Jeffrey best video on heli-coil I really enjoy your channel you are the best of the best.
Nice fix- when your cupboard door swung open I was expecting to see Scotty jump out- phew!
+Typey1 "AND REMEMBER, IF YOU'VE GOT ANY CAR QUEST..." **SLAM**
+Typey1 Haha maybe next time lol
I just had to do that with the two bolts that hold the EGR valve onto the aluminum manifold of my 1988 S10. Same bolt size as well. Those bolts had never been disturbed since the EGR was installed in December 1987. Likely over-torqued at the factory. I also replaced the bolts with longer ones (not blind holes), since less than 1/4" was actually threaded into the manifold.
+hoppes9 Oh nice, yeah so many ways to go about it for sure.
Are you sure you don't use brake parts cleaner just for the smell...?
Awesome video by a professional mechanic. Best repair videos on TH-cam!!!!
Nice fix. Although I have never installed one of these myself I have seen them used with great success.
Good job Dr! I tell you,it's that loctite that messes up the threads when you try to take the bolts out. I might be wrong on this,but I personally do not see the usefulness of loctite on the bolts that hold the power steering pump.
+Nick Nicu Subaru must have seen a need for it I guess.. not sure my self
Good vid. Amazed you dont have customers strolling in whilst filiming....that 90 degree drill is rather lively!
excellent demonstration video!! Fortunately the site of the repair was right up top in front so you had that working for you.
Nice repair Eric and good demonstration of how to install a helicoil. Have a good one!
+stuzman52 Thanks Terry!
much better than the O2 sensor video from the other day ! 😁
TRUST YOUR MUSCLES BABY. Love it, a real gear-head in action folks.
Nice job I prefer to leave the tap in the hole blow chips out the flutes especially before removing tap have had chips jam in tap even though I had backed it up lube tap after blowing out and finish tapping you do a great job probably don’t need my input .We can still learn something I’m 72 in November still wrenching but would like to sell my shop
Best coil video if seen. Excellent job Eric. I loved the shot of tightening the bolts. The way you went through that I think even ETCG could get it right. Lol. Just kidding..... But very good tutorial. I use them all the time. I tried the cheap online coils and they just don't hold up. Spend the money and use the right tools for the repair. Glad to see you using the Milwaukee tools. We use the crap out of ours.
+Emt Scythe Well I put it out there so we can all learn .. hopefully :)
Hey Eric!!!...I just want to say Hello!!! I am a new suscriptor!!!!...Congratulations for your job and Thank you for sharing your knowledge and teach us how to do things!!!!..... I enjoy too much the way you explain things, very clear, and straight forward!!!... but above all, thank you for all the help that your videos provides!!!!.....keep up, we follow!!!!
+Fidel Robles Glad you enjoy!
Nice repair! I would hate to guess all the heli-coil kits I bought in my past being a maintenance general supervisor of a large automotive component division. We bought them like kids do candy. They are a great product.
+Rick Anderson They have saved my bacon a time or two that's for sure
no wonder the Lady was willing to drive far to you. She wanted it done right. good video
I Was at Autozone five months ago and brought a couple of ecoplugs $9.99 for my vehicles including the magnetic removal tool $9.99not only did ecoplug resolve my stripped oil pan problem on one vehicle on my other I installed it to make changing my oil better.I can literally drain my oil and reinstall the ecoplugs in a second without getting covered in oil.Word to the wise these ecoplugs have extremely strong magnets when using removal tool to remove ecoplug slide the tool off.
Excellent video, calm, secure, and thoughtful professional, good work.
All kidding aside, you do really good videos. I learn a lot. Thanks
+mar md YW Thnaks
Great Demonstration! Learned my lesson Steel+loctite into aluminum. Now I just make sure I torque to spec.
Thank you very much Eric! Have to do this to the head bolt. Take care of yourself.
According to the Subaru factory service manual, those bracket bolts get tightened to 15.9 ft-lbs of torque. Shoot me a message if you want any of the FSMs, the spec was in one of their "general description" sections with the power steering pump assembly.
Have you ever had a problem with the helilock trying to unthread because loctite was applied on the bolt?
precision surgery doctor! thanks for another great video.
+Jason Michaels Thanks
I had to use those to fix that same problem on my subie. Same problem but it was on the waterpump bolts. Been driving it now for another 50k miles with no issues
Yup Helicoil has saved my behind a few times
Eric, Love your videos. I do all my own work cuz I don't trust anyone to fix my vehicles. (and your too far away to visit ) However, I have extensive experience with Heli-Coils and just want to let you know you should NEVER use Loctite on Helicoils. The reason being is if you have to remove the bolt in a week/month/year the coil will Usually come out with the bolt. It appears you used Purple which is the low strength formula so you might get away with it.
The reason the coils go in with resistance is they are wound oversize to the bore/thread and shrink/compress as you wind them in. You correctly wound them in past the end ( one turn is usually good ) which allows the sharp edge on the outside end of the coil to bite into the parent metal. This and the friction of the coil trying to expand in the hole keeps them securely in the hole. Not a criticism, just have years of experience with these things.
Hey, I was wondering if the tang on heli-coil end could pose a problem if it is not broken from the stem using the right tool. I fear the stub of the tang could snag on the bolt and unwind the heli-coil when the bolt is removed in the future.
@@narseh123 the biggest danger of leaving the tang, is that when you thread the bolt in the Tang can get underneath the thread of the bolt and damaged both the bolt and the helicoil. Coming back out the Tang would be causing the coil to expand and stick harder in the bore so it won't let it back out. All you need is a pair of thin needle nose pliers or a punch to go in and snap the Tang off.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Thanks for the reply. What the mechanics I have talked to fear the most is that heli-coils used in cylinder heads retract on next repair job. In fact, I read an article by Loctite which suggested applying loctite 2620 thread locker to the helicoil and letting it cure for 24 hours before inserting the bolt. Rust and corrosion can also be a risk factor causing the helicoil to back out with the bolt on.
Thanks for that good info. Never used one before. Way you approached it made absolute sense.
Heli-coil leaves the repair stronger than original, particularly when used in aluminum. The threads gripping the base metal are now of larger diameter which can handle more pressure than the previous sized threads. In addition, there is a large amount of friction induced into the threads during the final tightening which is now imposed on the insert rather than the base metal. As far as the "to thread lock or not to thread lock" topic I know from experience that you should NOT thread lock them into place unless using a solid threaded insert such as a time-cert.
I say the Reason for the Hole/Threads failed was "DO" to the fact that the Lock-Tite was too far up on the bolts and did Not help protect the treads. (Metal on Aluminum with no protectant, especially around heat will DESTROY the Aluminum/Threads) Hence, had the Lock-Tite been applied correctly, I do not believe the threads would have failed.
Great Video and thanks for sharing.
And now I know how to fix a thread. Thank you. Andy Australia
Good video. I’ve also thought about putting thread-locker on helli-coils but have never actually done it. My worry is that the thread locker would bond between the coil and the threaded hole, as well as between the coil and the bolt. So if you ever had to remove the bolt the coil might come out with it. Not sure if that would ever happen, but ya never know I guess.
I actually had a Ford Explorer 5.0 come in that had 2 Heli-Coils in the heads. When I had to remove the passengers side head the hell-coils came out with the head bolts. The previous repairer had put a "big glob" of red locktite on them. Don't know if it was the amount he used or just that he used it. I stopped putting Locktite on my coils after that.
ZThank you for this video, I used the instructions to repair my 2011 C300 stripped Klerk pulley housing. Needless to say, I saved a lot of money. Thank you for sharing.
I would not use loctite on a helicoiled thread. May be on the helicoil itself then anti-seize on the bolt. The torque of a bolt goes by it's size and into the metal the threads are going into. Google the bolt or stud size and into which metal and you will find an answer.....
Dude, now that you're an M18 guy you need these: Milwaukee 2615-20 right angle cordless drill and 0880-20 M18 vacuum cleaner. The right angle drill has great speed control, unlike the air tool, and the vacuum cleaner has excellent suction to pick up all of those chips. They cost $99 each at Toolup. Talk to me and I'll handle the batteries.
+SATAMAN Schmidt Maybe this nice guy I know in AZ might send me one!
+South Main Auto Repair I like both of them too much and I've only got one of each (that's different than normal). Might be able to supply an XC battery for the vacuum however. The compact batteries you have for the impacts will work on the right angle drill just fine but the vacuum is a power hog. For that you need the XC battery.
I use Heli's all the time on airplane engines. If you didn't know, airplane engines are split case type engines and on Lycoming's we actually use thread to hold oil in the case where it splits. But I use heli coils on the cases or accessories that bolt to the engine. They are a great invention in my opinion
Just found you and subscribed. Think I just found a gem. You’re the real deal. Great Vid 👍.
I've got an over heating problem and I would like you to look at my truck. I'll drop it off.
I'm leaving a Calif in about 15 minutes. Just want an estimate.
haha thanks another great video.
+Poochie43124312 Lol I am still waiting....
Easy peasy if you know what you're doing.. like others have said, I was surprised to see you put red loctite on the bolts and not the helicoils, but then again, the stuff probably spread itself all over anyway. Cheerz
I’ve done a lot of thread repairs to aluminium and find baerfix inserts to be a far superior product to helicoils especially if there’s a likelihood of dismantling later. Helicoils aren’t really good in softer materials as the pitch can start to pull a bit after a few cycles of tightening even to the correct torque. Check out BAERFIX INSERT for a different option. Also if you have a lathe you can drill and tap a larger fastener to the original size slot it for a screwdriver then tap the hole to the bigger fastener size, loctite the custom insert in which won’t pull the pitch when tightened. Pulled me out of a hole many times when I couldn’t wait on a kit. Smallest insert I ever fit is M2 into delrin.
Thank You, learned a lot from you, Doctor O! Your shows are by far interesting and educational. Again, Thank You
Great instruction lesson. I’m afraid of the fast air drill and would get a right angle battery something if I had a few to do.
Great video! Those heli-coils are so expensive. I got a crash course in fixing stripped holes when I was replacing a motor mount for the first time, and one of the holes going into the body/frame got stripped out. I went out and got a tap and die set, and used the next higher bolt size, which luckily fit through the hole on the motor mount. But I had to do a lot of running around to find a matching combination of tap and bolt in the right size and thread pitch.
Of course, the tap and die set was more expensive (Irwin) but it'll be a better value in the long run I hope.
+anti0918 You can do this trick once in awhile but Heli-coils aren't expensive at all compared to Time-Serts. THOSE are expensive. Most of the time you can't use the larger bolt as the part your fastening can't be drilled out (like a water pump) also the Heli-coil's are stainless steel and typically hold better than the aluminum they are going into. A lot of aluminum parts come with Heli-coils pre installed into the aluminum simply because they hold better than the base metal.
SATAMAN Schmidt Thanks for the information, that does make sense. Definitely if a larger bolt won't fit through the part, and you can't drill it out, then the helicoil is the way to go.
+Jason Curry The patent on Heli-coils ran out about a century ago. There are many kits now available that are the same thing but cheaper.
***** That's good to know. But I didn't even anticipate needing them until it was too late to order online and wait for shipping. The kits in Autozone were like $30 for just a few coils.
Used maybe 5-6 on cars in my career, but at least a 100 on motorcycles. When I would use on a bike I would use loctite sleeve retainer and then let it set for a few hours then use antiseize on the bolt. Looks like red loctite on those front bolts.
I also agree with Jeffrey. Great video thanks for sharing.
I hate using small taps. I broken a few quarter 20 taps.
1/4 20 isn't small. Careful what you wish for, try using a M48 tap
thank u my friend for that very good logs
I just hit 100k miles. Please do a Subaru timing belt video, that would be amazing.
Subaru timing belt video: Step 1, strip down engine, step 2, replace main bearings, crank bearings, rear main seal, clutch fork, head gaskets, and valve cover gaskets, step 3, replacing timing belt, step 4, question why you spend more than what the car is worth because it's a "Subbie" step 5, cry, step 6, buy a real car.
😆 Accurate
Excellent step by step, Eric. Thanks.
There is a torque spec. It's 22Nm or 15.9Ft.Lbs.
I've got the same model & year Outback (white too), bought new, and found same exact problem when changing PS pump. tks for the tutorial! disappointing Subaru hasn't stepped up , esp ref head gaskets
Good job clear demonstration
Your videos are awesome your very very knowledgeable humorous and worth watching keep videos going thank you
Awesome I've had to use those types also on alternators and cast iron trannys for air shift valves and on the primary and secondary bearing caps when a driver corkscrews the main shaft in a spicer 8
Hi Eric, great video! On the one you used loctite, does that coil stay in place if you remove the bolt in the future? Seems like the coil would stick to the bolt? Thanks!
Thanks for the great video.
I search all over the TH-cam for this specific job. I over tighten my fill hole on my rear differential. The bolt just spins but won’t get tighter and it won’t come out either when I tried to unscrew it. Not sure how I can get the “stripped” bolt out.
Good Job good video. as i have to do an insert for a head bolt on a Harley shovelhead 1976, and it might already have one in it with a wrong thread count with a non-original bolt.
I'm now getting email notices of your posts again!
+David Goldberg Oh good. Google+ and TH-cam have separated so it has the notifications all messed up. Mine have been goofed up for some time now.
Great tutorial! (I know I'm a little late to to the party.) What about putting an inline regulator between shop air and the drill to slow it down when you are starting?
nice job Eric , I like the repair that will save alot money and time, but is it supposed to add lock tigh at the hille coil ! keep it up
+Mason obaidi I never locktite heli-coils
I'd be happy if you'd just show 30 minutes of the chocolate milk. lol, I am a chocoholic and love my chocolate milk :) Anyhow, thanks for the video!
Man, you kick ass at whatever is thrown at you, have you been defeated by a project recently?
+mrexecutive1 Haha well we all have our day but it has been a while
Thanks so much bro. Ive been skeptical as fuck about info going around these days. Good to see some old fashioned values at work. Just found my 93 bronco yolk flange completely stripped when i went to replace my u joints. Buddy told me to research some heliocoils. Not sure if its the proper way to go about it but i cant find a yolk flange for my truck anywhere so. Gonna give these things a try soon. My old yolk flange was legit held on by locktight for over 20 years on a stripped flange lol.
Excellent video, like Steve Rob I'm a tool addict. Notice I didn't say recovering ;)
+N Smith I'm just the same man!
Thank goodness they were easy to get to. Nice work.
You're such a gentleman! Not everyone re lubes when tapping
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hey Eric I was wondering if maybe those bolts were too short/wrong ones. The hole was way deeper than the bolt poking through the pump body. Maybe that's why they failed. Cheers, great vid.
Eric, I recently had the same problem with one of the water pump bolts on a WRX. Strange. Only one
What I understand is that red Locktite is permanent and blue is removable !?
Good job sharing
I was torquing to spec and the threads came right out on the idler pully bolt hole. Repaired using a thread sert. Found out that I could have replaced the bracket last year for less, and that it was common enough. lol However, had the issue happen again this Saturday while torquing to spec, never got close, just kept spinning, so I with the kit I had before for time serts, replaced the threads, no issues.
Man I'm a Heating and Air guy and I find myself pulling off parts that make the fix easier rather than just finesse. I find at the end of the day I am just as efficient. LOL
Nice job Eric - thanks for the video!
+1954BJohn YW