At the sensor end I grinded off some plastic and bridged the broken circuit with a tiny wire and solder, then covered it with a little epoxy glue and back to work.
Replaced brake pad on my 320ied but could not reset mileage from dashboard: reset unsuccessful. Sensor seems faulty n i just removed plastic n twisted the 2 sensor wires together to close the circuit. Reset was then successful. Thks a lot
I did this EXACT same thing to my car because my dongle is saying, "rear brake pad sensor fault", except I soldered the wires together and the light is STILL on. I reset the fault in my PCM and it's came right back on. Edit: BTW, I put brand new pads, rotors and calipers on the rear of my car, but my car has H&R lowering springs (2") and 225/40/18s on it, so the wiring rubbed through. I cut the harness all the way back to the plug and resoldered them, so we'll see.
This warning can trip if the car has high mileage as well and can be very annoying especially when you know the brakes are good. That's why if you have an older model, this is a great fix for that annoying "service death light".
I went to grab a sensor at the local yunkjard yesterday and the car that was there had the sensor cut off and the wires twisted together just like this video. I was so confused as to why he did that and today i run into this video showing me why 😂 probably just going to do that with my car instead of buying a new one for $10 on rockauto
I have this problem because i changed the brakes and also the sensor and after that i got the service light, can i use my old sensor to do that and reset the warnings and then connect the working one that is on rn back ?
So I got a message on my X6 that the brake pads needed replaced in 600 miles. I had thought that the sensor was a prox sensor but I guess it's not. It must have tripped because when I installed new pads and re-used the old sensor, my Launch scan tool tells me that the sensor is unplugged or has a broken wire. I got a new one today.
No, the system just measures if there is a circuit (brake pads with plenty of pad left) or if there is no circuit (sensor circuit is worn and broken and system measures much resistance so it knows the pads are fully worn). It's not like this working when the ignition is off.
The blue ABS sensors are separate to the brake wear sensors (brake wear sensors are only on one front and alternated one rear wheel, only two sensors) and blue ABS sensors on ALL four wheels. The rear sit atop the hub - bad spot, due corrosion - front positions inside hub. They're a nightmare because the aluminium corrodes around the ABS sensor
You can do this bypass up closer to the box, and not have any wires that you tuck away near the brake pad. These sensors are for profoundly clueless folks that have no idea how to do their own brakes. Bypass them early and often.
For one: The sensors trip when there is plenty of pad material left, and if you do work with your car yourself you should regularly inspect the brake pad wear visually anyway.
@@christianeriksson4733 exactly. This is why I'm here. The brake wear sensor on my lady's Mini trips with the pads still in good condition. I just hate having the light on.
@@Latinofire202 same thing literally happened to my wifes 2009 mini, did you figure out your troubles? I wanna get that darn red car on lift sign that pops up every time we start car
@@su35supaflanka well I've replaced the brake sensor plenty of times. When it trips, the car raised in red comes on and then the front or rear car picture goes red too and that tells which brake sensor tripped. I haven't done the bypass on it because I have a spare sensor that I'm just going to replace eventually.
Best to check with a multimeter for continuity like I did at the end of the video on a sensor that hasn't been blown yet to be sure. Unplug the sensor from the harness and test at the two pins in the connector. This should work for any car of any model that uses a simple wire loop that breaks apart to trip the light. All you are doing is fooling the car into thinking the wire is still intact by splicing the two ends together.
@@Platinumtag No, they are separate sensors in different locations. But iirc the end connector for both are in the same little box tucked under the wheel well.
Tip..if you try to reset and come reset unsuccesfull..just realease parjing break and will reset...say thanks later,took me couple of week with all posible trics..f10 2014..parking break released..succes😂😂silly shit
Thanks. After confirming the pads were good I was able to confirm a false sensor indication without replacing the sensor.
At the sensor end I grinded off some plastic and bridged the broken circuit with a tiny wire and solder, then covered it with a little epoxy glue and back to work.
Good; the epoxy glue will wear off when pads are worn again and you do it all over again.
Infinite brake pad sensor.. 🤣🤣 good idea.
That’s what I’m talking about a real mechanic thank you have much I figured I could do that but wanted to see if
Replaced brake pad on my 320ied but could not reset mileage from dashboard: reset unsuccessful. Sensor seems faulty n i just removed plastic n twisted the 2 sensor wires together to close the circuit. Reset was then successful. Thks a lot
I did this EXACT same thing to my car because my dongle is saying, "rear brake pad sensor fault", except I soldered the wires together and the light is STILL on. I reset the fault in my PCM and it's came right back on. Edit: BTW, I put brand new pads, rotors and calipers on the rear of my car, but my car has H&R lowering springs (2") and 225/40/18s on it, so the wiring rubbed through. I cut the harness all the way back to the plug and resoldered them, so we'll see.
Great video! Probably gonna do this on my 328i too lol
This warning can trip if the car has high mileage as well and can be very annoying especially when you know the brakes are good. That's why if you have an older model, this is a great fix for that annoying "service death light".
Car still runs fine. Found mine the end was totally off. Just a lil piece but yellow break pad light turned off.
I went to grab a sensor at the local yunkjard yesterday and the car that was there had the sensor cut off and the wires twisted together just like this video. I was so confused as to why he did that and today i run into this video showing me why 😂 probably just going to do that with my car instead of buying a new one for $10 on rockauto
I have this problem because i changed the brakes and also the sensor and after that i got the service light, can i use my old sensor to do that and reset the warnings and then connect the working one that is on rn back ?
You need to reset with new sensor In. Car in neutral. Parking brake off.
Does this work on rear sensor?
Will it work for a bmwi3 range extender
So I got a message on my X6 that the brake pads needed replaced in 600 miles. I had thought that the sensor was a prox sensor but I guess it's not. It must have tripped because when I installed new pads and re-used the old sensor, my Launch scan tool tells me that the sensor is unplugged or has a broken wire. I got a new one today.
Then I came back to just hear the music
Kia Ora ma g, great vidz like n like ✌🏼😁
Any chance a faulty sensor would cause a parasitic battery draw?
No, the system just measures if there is a circuit (brake pads with plenty of pad left) or if there is no circuit (sensor circuit is worn and broken and system measures much resistance so it knows the pads are fully worn).
It's not like this working when the ignition is off.
This tricks the computer into thinking all 4 sensor are good riggt.
Does the ABS light go on with the brake warning or just the brake light?
I've only ever seen just the brake light never ABS.
The blue ABS sensors are separate to the brake wear sensors (brake wear sensors are only on one front and alternated one rear wheel, only two sensors) and blue ABS sensors on ALL four wheels. The rear sit atop the hub - bad spot, due corrosion - front positions inside hub. They're a nightmare because the aluminium corrodes around the ABS sensor
How do you know which sensor is the left
Sit in the car and ask yourself which direction is left…
W video thanks bro
Can I buy new sensors and just zip tie them somewhere?
Why waste money on new ones?
Excellent
You can do this bypass up closer to the box, and not have any wires that you tuck away near the brake pad. These sensors are for profoundly clueless folks that have no idea how to do their own brakes. Bypass them early and often.
Where exactly?
Where exactly is "the box"?
Do i do front and rear delete?
Both
So do this for all 4 ..if you get 4x4 will this fix it...
Why not just buy a new sensor and install it? It takes 5 minutes and it’s cheap. Then go into the BC and reset the service interval.
For one: The sensors trip when there is plenty of pad material left, and if you do work with your car yourself you should regularly inspect the brake pad wear visually anyway.
@@christianeriksson4733 exactly. This is why I'm here. The brake wear sensor on my lady's Mini trips with the pads still in good condition. I just hate having the light on.
@@Latinofire202 same thing literally happened to my wifes 2009 mini, did you figure out your troubles? I wanna get that darn red car on lift sign that pops up every time we start car
@@su35supaflanka well I've replaced the brake sensor plenty of times. When it trips, the car raised in red comes on and then the front or rear car picture goes red too and that tells which brake sensor tripped. I haven't done the bypass on it because I have a spare sensor that I'm just going to replace eventually.
@@Latinofire202
Throw some black tape over the warning light , problem solved.
Can't I just stick a paper clip inside?
Its a $5 part. Why not do it right and replace it?
Whats the point of buying the "part" when it's just making a full circut? Go ahead buy all the stuff you don't need. SMH
And the delete is more like 25-30$
Does this only work with the e90 or with the f10 as well
Best to check with a multimeter for continuity like I did at the end of the video on a sensor that hasn't been blown yet to be sure. Unplug the sensor from the harness and test at the two pins in the connector. This should work for any car of any model that uses a simple wire loop that breaks apart to trip the light. All you are doing is fooling the car into thinking the wire is still intact by splicing the two ends together.
My mini shows yellow brake light and pads are still thick. Can i just do this and dont get new sensors? Will it damage anything on the computer
@@DesignBuildDestroy is that sensor same as abs wheel speed sensor?
@@Platinumtag No, they are separate sensors in different locations. But iirc the end connector for both are in the same little box tucked under the wheel well.
Does it work with 2004 bmw x3 3.0 asking for all owners
Tip..if you try to reset and come reset unsuccesfull..just realease parjing break and will reset...say thanks later,took me couple of week with all posible trics..f10 2014..parking break released..succes😂😂silly shit
Huh explain
Having trouble resetting rear one do you mean do this after bypass?