I bought 3mm ID PTFE tubes to replace the default ones and more NPT fittings to some mods suggested by other folks in the comments + some very helpful redditors. I'll make a follow up video if I can sort out the reliability! I hope I do
I don't know but I will likely try it! The upgrade kit is reasonably priced so I'll wait until I need to order more Prusament or something and then order one and keep you all posted with an update. Thanks for watching!
I had the same issues you had.. After optimizing the feed to the MMU (dont use the spoolholders and buffer) and fine tuning the insert to the bondtech gears / filement sensor, I got it working without any problems. If there is to much friction in the filament path then the insert of the filament into the extruder fails.
Yes, I think a large part of my issues were at filament load and I need to do some mechanical tuning at the insert and bondtech gears - I've just been traveling too much to find more time to troubleshoot the MMU2... I will get an MMU3 upgrade kit when it's available later this year and try to improve Thanks for watching!
I'll be curious to see if the Revo nozzle helps your jams. I have a Klipperized Anycubic Mega S that I added 3 more extruders to with an outboard MCU and I have had about the same luck. I built a V6 hotend with the MMU heatbreak and the wider entry helps with filament swapping but I get blob jams on the filament end if there's a lot of retraction multimaterial or not. The bowden Y-adapter is simpler and I could take it to 6 extruders if it was more reliable. Otherwise it just makes it easier to pick a color. 😆
Lol at this point I've lowered my expectations so much I'd be happy to just use the MMU2 to change colors/materials from my office so I don't have to get up from my office and walk down to the basement to kick off a print with a different filament
@@AsaMakes No real documentation it's just a frankenprinter at this point with a few modifications that happened over time as I explored different options. I used a MKS Gen V1.4 board for the extra extruders and I can flash the same firmware as the Mega for updates but I'm seeing the speed limitations of 8 bit controllers. A Raspberry Pi 4 running things helps. Knowing the Mega was capable of a V6 hotend made the idea of trying the MMU heatbreak plausible. I like to print ABS so that's an added challenge you might say. A Revo hotend may be the endgame for the problem. It's been good printer and at this point I've got it as close to click-and-print as I can. I've successfully gotten prints with over 700 filament swaps but it's safer to keep them down to a handful. Signs and things like that are fine. Thanks for sharing your experience, so far it sounds like I've not wasted the effort doing this instead of a Prusa/MMU type of setup. I might even set up an ERCF if it can be made to work better.
I read in a comment on another channel that upgrading to a Revo hotend appears to help with reliability. They suggested this was due to there not being any kind of gap in the hotend between the nozzle and heatbreak unlike the normal hotend, which usually leaves some marks on the filament.
Excellent, I already have one on order so I'm looking forward to testing. At the moment I took the MMU2 off but I have new 3mm ID tubes and some other mods lined up - I plan to try again when I have a day free to troubleshoot I hope the revo hot end helps. I plan to do a follow up video if I can get better reliability. Thanks for watching!
@@AsaMakes I have been looking at the MMU the past 2 years, but came to the same conclusion, quite shocking actually since V2 is on the market since 2018. awesome! and subscribed, can't wait to see the follow up.I'm expecting my Revo next week, I'm really curious if that is the answer to a reliable MMU. The comment I was referring to, can be found under the 3d printing nerd prusa MK3 Revo upgrade video from 8 months ago.
As someone with an mmu and a revo , these two are not compatible , at least on my machine it has been nothing but failure galore. One of the worst investments ive ever made in a product
i use the rmu buffer setup and I have found that petg works better. also check the filament unload speed and ram to fix the tip. it should be smooth and pointy with little to no string
This is the first I've heard of the rmu buffer, I might print one, it looks compelling. Filament unload speed is all default - any recommendation on specific changes to make in settings? Thanks for watching!
@@AsaMakes each filament acts differently. the settings to play with are under filament, advanced, toolchange. I would play with the unloading settings so the tip can be the right size.
Thanks! 99% of the time I run Prusament and their default settings in PrusaSlicer so I can keep things as uniform as possible - I'll play around with the unload settings a bit
Honestly I have no idea, they claim something like 95% reliability in their testing I'm seriously considering the mmu3 upgrade just to see what improvement it can offer (I haven't looked it up yet in detail). I have all the parts to upgrade all the PTFE tubes to 3mm ID and try again but I just haven't had the time yet. Thanks for watching! Make on
@@AsaMakes the MMU2 has horifically bad reviews on the prusa storefront. 2.5 stars out of 5. did you not notice that? or did you just want to see if it was really that bad? 😁
Even worse - it was hubris! I thought it couldn't be as bad as people say plus I have plenty of experience tinkering, machining, and an advanced degree in engineering. I figured all that and some helpful reddit threads would do the trick and I was sorely mistaken. I'm sure I can get it to work eventually I just haven't invested more time yet as the benefit of multi color and multi material just don't seem worth it! (I'll wait for the XL I pre ordered that should show up in a few months)
I'm really torn - if cost and space weren't an issue I'd absolutely order an X1C but I just can't justify it at the moment. Their reliable AMS + faster print speeds are tempting but 99% of what I do can be covered by my two Mk3s+. I would like the faster print speeds of the X1C compared to the Mk3s+ but the reality is my design time is usually the limiting factor and not printer speed. I plan to stick with the LX order for the large build volume but I'm toying with the idea of replacing my two Mk3s+ with one X1C at some point in the future. We'll see!
Thanks, I'm in the middle of printing some of the common mods - in my setup later tonight/tomorrow I'll remove the filament buffer, replace the PTFE tubing with 3mm ID tubes, make everything straighter, say a prayer or two, and hopefully I get the reliability up
I also have a PRUSA but in the meantime I have to say that Prusa has simply fallen behind enormously. Much too expensive and what the Prusa can do, others can now do better and much cheaper. Prusa has rested on its laurels and meanwhile lost the connection. They also no longer make any effort to be innovative, because their money and success has gone to dear Jo's head.
Bambu Labs has really introduced a new standard in my opinion. Prusa will have to respond with something that is price competitive. Right now, I can't justify the price of a new Mk3s+ when you can get get a better (IMO) Bambu Labs P1P for less cost or an X1C for slightly more that really seems to blow the Mk3 out of the water in terms of performance. This is all based on reviews as I don't have a Bambu Labs printer yet. I did buy a second Mk3s+ used on Facebook Marketplace for $450 last week - including a second MMU2 that I immediately uninstalled. I wanted the ability to send print jobs flexibly between two printers, share gcode, etc. For me, commonality was worth more than spending a bit more for a P1P. I've been checking Facebook Marketplace for months waiting for a good deal and finally one popped up - someone was moving and just needed to sell their Mk3 as soon as possible. Do I think Prusa has gotten greedy? No - I think they've poured their resources into the Mini and the XL and in the meantime the market responded with a true competitor for the Mk3. With Prusa you pay for near-industrial quality in the steppers, drivers, electronics, etc. The used Prusa I bought has over 150 days of print time and prints like it's brand new. I've heard anecdotal stories on reddit of folks with a Mk2.5 that are 6 or 7 years old that also print like new. I appreciate so much that Prusa has prioritize open source in a way that massively benefits the industry as a whole. Thank you for watching and commenting! What will your next printer or upgrade?
mmu2 so bad...load and unload It keeps going wrong, I tried to use a lot of mods to barely make it work for 30 hours without error, it has been removed from mk3s+.😂
I have two Mk3s's and two MMU2. Neither of the MMU2s are currently installed because I just can't get them to work reliability. Hopefully with some more work I can get them running well Thanks for watching!
UPDATE! After 4 months I finally got my two MMU2s working reliably - see how I did it in this video: th-cam.com/video/wSFekXcpxWc/w-d-xo.html
Gods that future ASA clip just before 1:11 almost made me spit out my coffee
Hah! Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
I have two prusa i3 in my workshop and I bought MMU2 upgrade, and "MMU needs attention" became an inside meme. Prusa support couldn't help.
I bought 3mm ID PTFE tubes to replace the default ones and more NPT fittings to some mods suggested by other folks in the comments + some very helpful redditors. I'll make a follow up video if I can sort out the reliability! I hope I do
And thanks for watching!
I wonder if the new MMU3 would be a big improvement.
I don't know but I will likely try it! The upgrade kit is reasonably priced so I'll wait until I need to order more Prusament or something and then order one and keep you all posted with an update.
Thanks for watching!
I had the same issues you had.. After optimizing the feed to the MMU (dont use the spoolholders and buffer) and fine tuning the insert to the bondtech gears / filement sensor, I got it working without any problems. If there is to much friction in the filament path then the insert of the filament into the extruder fails.
Yes, I think a large part of my issues were at filament load and I need to do some mechanical tuning at the insert and bondtech gears - I've just been traveling too much to find more time to troubleshoot the MMU2... I will get an MMU3 upgrade kit when it's available later this year and try to improve
Thanks for watching!
I'll be curious to see if the Revo nozzle helps your jams. I have a Klipperized Anycubic Mega S that I added 3 more extruders to with an outboard MCU and I have had about the same luck. I built a V6 hotend with the MMU heatbreak and the wider entry helps with filament swapping but I get blob jams on the filament end if there's a lot of retraction multimaterial or not. The bowden Y-adapter is simpler and I could take it to 6 extruders if it was more reliable. Otherwise it just makes it easier to pick a color. 😆
Lol at this point I've lowered my expectations so much I'd be happy to just use the MMU2 to change colors/materials from my office so I don't have to get up from my office and walk down to the basement to kick off a print with a different filament
Your setup sounds really cool - do you have any videos/wrote ups/blogs etc to share?
@@AsaMakes No real documentation it's just a frankenprinter at this point with a few modifications that happened over time as I explored different options. I used a MKS Gen V1.4 board for the extra extruders and I can flash the same firmware as the Mega for updates but I'm seeing the speed limitations of 8 bit controllers. A Raspberry Pi 4 running things helps. Knowing the Mega was capable of a V6 hotend made the idea of trying the MMU heatbreak plausible. I like to print ABS so that's an added challenge you might say. A Revo hotend may be the endgame for the problem. It's been good printer and at this point I've got it as close to click-and-print as I can. I've successfully gotten prints with over 700 filament swaps but it's safer to keep them down to a handful. Signs and things like that are fine. Thanks for sharing your experience, so far it sounds like I've not wasted the effort doing this instead of a Prusa/MMU type of setup. I might even set up an ERCF if it can be made to work better.
I read in a comment on another channel that upgrading to a Revo hotend appears to help with reliability. They suggested this was due to there not being any kind of gap in the hotend between the nozzle and heatbreak unlike the normal hotend, which usually leaves some marks on the filament.
Excellent, I already have one on order so I'm looking forward to testing. At the moment I took the MMU2 off but I have new 3mm ID tubes and some other mods lined up - I plan to try again when I have a day free to troubleshoot
I hope the revo hot end helps. I plan to do a follow up video if I can get better reliability.
Thanks for watching!
@@AsaMakes
I have been looking at the MMU the past 2 years, but came to the same conclusion, quite shocking actually since V2 is on the market since 2018.
awesome!
and subscribed, can't wait to see the follow up.I'm expecting my Revo next week, I'm really curious if that is the answer to a reliable MMU.
The comment I was referring to, can be found under the 3d printing nerd prusa MK3 Revo upgrade video from 8 months ago.
Im surprised they haven't made a V2+ that includes some of the most common mods
As someone with an mmu and a revo , these two are not compatible , at least on my machine it has been nothing but failure galore. One of the worst investments ive ever made in a product
i use the rmu buffer setup and I have found that petg works better. also check the filament unload speed and ram to fix the tip. it should be smooth and pointy with little to no string
This is the first I've heard of the rmu buffer, I might print one, it looks compelling. Filament unload speed is all default - any recommendation on specific changes to make in settings?
Thanks for watching!
@@AsaMakes each filament acts differently. the settings to play with are under filament, advanced, toolchange. I would play with the unloading settings so the tip can be the right size.
Thanks! 99% of the time I run Prusament and their default settings in PrusaSlicer so I can keep things as uniform as possible - I'll play around with the unload settings a bit
How did prusa mess this up so badly.
Honestly I have no idea, they claim something like 95% reliability in their testing
I'm seriously considering the mmu3 upgrade just to see what improvement it can offer (I haven't looked it up yet in detail). I have all the parts to upgrade all the PTFE tubes to 3mm ID and try again but I just haven't had the time yet. Thanks for watching! Make on
@@AsaMakes the MMU2 has horifically bad reviews on the prusa storefront. 2.5 stars out of 5. did you not notice that? or did you just want to see if it was really that bad? 😁
Even worse - it was hubris! I thought it couldn't be as bad as people say plus I have plenty of experience tinkering, machining, and an advanced degree in engineering. I figured all that and some helpful reddit threads would do the trick and I was sorely mistaken. I'm sure I can get it to work eventually I just haven't invested more time yet as the benefit of multi color and multi material just don't seem worth it! (I'll wait for the XL I pre ordered that should show up in a few months)
@@AsaMakes any interest in the bambu x1c+ams? their changer seems to work really well, even if it is wasteful.
I'm really torn - if cost and space weren't an issue I'd absolutely order an X1C but I just can't justify it at the moment. Their reliable AMS + faster print speeds are tempting but 99% of what I do can be covered by my two Mk3s+. I would like the faster print speeds of the X1C compared to the Mk3s+ but the reality is my design time is usually the limiting factor and not printer speed.
I plan to stick with the LX order for the large build volume but I'm toying with the idea of replacing my two Mk3s+ with one X1C at some point in the future. We'll see!
If you increase the distance between MMU and spools by say a meter your fail rate will drop.
Thanks! Do you know why this helps?
@@AsaMakes your filament routing tubes wouldnt be at such tight angles... i have the MMU unit and it rarely fails.
Thanks, I'm in the middle of printing some of the common mods - in my setup later tonight/tomorrow I'll remove the filament buffer, replace the PTFE tubing with 3mm ID tubes, make everything straighter, say a prayer or two, and hopefully I get the reliability up
I also have a PRUSA but in the meantime I have to say that Prusa has simply fallen behind enormously. Much too expensive and what the Prusa can do, others can now do better and much cheaper.
Prusa has rested on its laurels and meanwhile lost the connection. They also no longer make any effort to be innovative, because their money and success has gone to dear Jo's head.
Bambu Labs has really introduced a new standard in my opinion. Prusa will have to respond with something that is price competitive. Right now, I can't justify the price of a new Mk3s+ when you can get get a better (IMO) Bambu Labs P1P for less cost or an X1C for slightly more that really seems to blow the Mk3 out of the water in terms of performance. This is all based on reviews as I don't have a Bambu Labs printer yet.
I did buy a second Mk3s+ used on Facebook Marketplace for $450 last week - including a second MMU2 that I immediately uninstalled. I wanted the ability to send print jobs flexibly between two printers, share gcode, etc. For me, commonality was worth more than spending a bit more for a P1P. I've been checking Facebook Marketplace for months waiting for a good deal and finally one popped up - someone was moving and just needed to sell their Mk3 as soon as possible.
Do I think Prusa has gotten greedy? No - I think they've poured their resources into the Mini and the XL and in the meantime the market responded with a true competitor for the Mk3. With Prusa you pay for near-industrial quality in the steppers, drivers, electronics, etc. The used Prusa I bought has over 150 days of print time and prints like it's brand new. I've heard anecdotal stories on reddit of folks with a Mk2.5 that are 6 or 7 years old that also print like new.
I appreciate so much that Prusa has prioritize open source in a way that massively benefits the industry as a whole.
Thank you for watching and commenting! What will your next printer or upgrade?
You ever met another Asa? That’s my son’s name!
It's a great name :) I like having a unique and rare enough name that I've always been the only Asa in the school, only Asa at the company, etc
I've only met one other Asa in person to date!
Sorry so slow. Great name bud. I did good. 😅
Lol better late than never! Go team Asa
mmu2 so bad...load and unload It keeps going wrong, I tried to use a lot of mods to barely make it work for 30 hours without error, it has been removed from mk3s+.😂
I have two Mk3s's and two MMU2. Neither of the MMU2s are currently installed because I just can't get them to work reliability. Hopefully with some more work I can get them running well
Thanks for watching!
Thanks again for watching! I greatly appreciate it. Next video will be another miniature build guide, stay tuned