Cracking job mate !! Reminds me of when we went on a run in my grandpas old Morgan after he rebuild it on a warm day and the chassis was shiny like a Mirror with all the wax oil
I love to see all that waxoyl being used correctly. One thing has struck me though obviously there will be large deposits inside which is great but does it melt in hot weather and start dripping out or will it stay put.
It tends to stay put. When I did my chassis I pumped about 2 litres down each rail - it was literally pouring out all over the shop. I've never seen a drop since it was put in (and topped up every 24 months with Dinitrol ML).
waxol is rubbish , it cracks and flakes now , since the formula was changed , it also seals in moisture causing even more rot. try looking at acf 50 or some similar products , for many many reasons so much better than waxol.
@@tomthompson7400 I say Waxoyle but I use Dinitrol ML. Or diesel and engine oil! I think Waxoyle is just a colloquial term used now. I tell you what really is bad! Raptor coat - I did a sound rear crossmember on my 90 with it - now I have been spray painting for years and fabricating and building cars so this was a fairly ordinary task, I did it in about June of 2018 - and last week I took a screw driver to the water and rust pockets under it - the chassis is a good solid chassis everywhere else (new about 10 yeas ago) I will be taking that all off next month.
this is not Waxoyl but a product made here in Quebec aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produit.aspx?lang=1&cat=4&scat=99999 good flow but needs a bit of warming this weather Once the excess has dripped this product clings very well but must be applied to a dry surface
Could not agree more! Waxoyl is not the same as the old Finnigans stuff Here in Canada it does get hard and cracks If I were in Europe I would use Dinitrol
This is a product made here in Quebec by a company called April - not sure if the link works as it is in a pop up aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produitUnique.aspx?lang=1&produit=109 if it does not work try here and follow the link aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produit.aspx?lang=1&cat=4&scat=99999
many thanks , ,ill go check it out . seriously take a look into acf , granted it needs done every couple of years , but its a mornings work , and clean to use too i find its great inside chassis where its not quite bad enough to start cutting out , but it soon will be , where the swelling shows , above rear axle on disco ive found it stops the problem dead in its tracks.
@@BritannicaRestorations hi it's a rust proofing moisture Eliminator that is used in the aircraft industry to stop corrosion and dissimilar metal reactions that are speeded up by water .. also safe for rubber and electrical insulation .. it's inert and even better won't ignite if you ever have to weld after a repair from an accident ... google it and see ... you really don't need much either a liter goes a long long way
@@BritannicaRestorations clean technical lanolin its expensive? It was mized in 1 to 10 proportions whit oil sa you no need a lot of her :) Read about Lanotec product (its basicaly 20% lanolin and oli)
Nice to see your taking the time to do this crucial step in re assembly Mike. Did Land Rover make any attempts at rust proofing these critical areas during production?
There is no internal coating on any bulkheads from S1 to the last of the Defenders, it’s all bare steel. The biggest problem is the spot-welded lap joints of the internal door pillar up to the wind screen hinges. Series or Defender, they’re the areas that rot out from the inside first, followed by the outside face of the door pillar below the bottom hinge for just the same reason - a double layer of bare steel that traps water.
none at all , they spent fifty years with this basic design and still never added decent rustproofing ... im glad to say , another forty hours this week welding rusted junk , but folk keep buying it , ill keep welding it .
once upon a time it was true , trouble now is that they go wrong so often , and are so expensive to fix , which usually is only a fix till the next problem shows , that folk cant afford to keep fixing them look at the number of discovery out there , needing an engine , engine will be 6k min , to fix a 5k car ,, spot the problem.
Hi Mike very good work as always and I am complaining about 11 degrees here in Portsmouth UK many thanks Eliot
Wish it would stop raining thou:-)
Winter draws on!
Famous last words "won't have trouble with the new wiring harness" hehe
Cracking job mate !! Reminds me of when we went on a run in my grandpas old Morgan after he rebuild it on a warm day and the chassis was shiny like a Mirror with all the wax oil
Great job! Wish that was my bulkhead!!!
Cracking vid pal, love the channel 👍🇬🇧
Probably outlast the new defender!
First ECU to go down and it will be a problem !
I love to see all that waxoyl being used correctly. One thing has struck me though obviously there will be large deposits inside which is great but does it melt in hot weather and start dripping out or will it stay put.
It tends to stay put. When I did my chassis I pumped about 2 litres down each rail - it was literally pouring out all over the shop. I've never seen a drop since it was put in (and topped up every 24 months with Dinitrol ML).
waxol is rubbish , it cracks and flakes now , since the formula was changed , it also seals in moisture causing even more rot. try looking at acf 50 or some similar products , for many many reasons so much better than waxol.
@@tomthompson7400 I say Waxoyle but I use Dinitrol ML. Or diesel and engine oil! I think Waxoyle is just a colloquial term used now.
I tell you what really is bad! Raptor coat - I did a sound rear crossmember on my 90 with it - now I have been spray painting for years and fabricating and building cars so this was a fairly ordinary task, I did it in about June of 2018 - and last week I took a screw driver to the water and rust pockets under it - the chassis is a good solid chassis everywhere else (new about 10 yeas ago) I will be taking that all off next month.
this is not Waxoyl but a product made here in Quebec
aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produit.aspx?lang=1&cat=4&scat=99999
good flow but needs a bit of warming this weather
Once the excess has dripped this product clings very well but must be applied to a dry surface
Could not agree more! Waxoyl is not the same as the old Finnigans stuff
Here in Canada it does get hard and cracks
If I were in Europe I would use Dinitrol
Mike , what do you think of using Chain saw oil ? Apparently it contains an acid that woks as a rust converter ? good or bad??
No idea - never heard of it used like that - but the again I have not seen many rusty trees...
Mike, what is the name of the agent on which you paint the partition, thank you and best regards.
so , would you like to share what this wax product actually is , as you have said several times that you dont use waxol.
This is a product made here in Quebec by a company called April - not sure if the link works as it is in a pop up
aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produitUnique.aspx?lang=1&produit=109
if it does not work try here and follow the link
aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produit.aspx?lang=1&cat=4&scat=99999
many thanks , ,ill go check it out .
seriously take a look into acf , granted it needs done every couple of years , but its a mornings work , and clean to use too i find its great inside chassis where its not quite bad enough to start cutting out , but it soon will be , where the swelling shows , above rear axle on disco ive found it stops the problem dead in its tracks.
What is ACF?
@@BritannicaRestorations hi it's a rust proofing moisture Eliminator that is used in the aircraft industry to stop corrosion and dissimilar metal reactions that are speeded up by water .. also safe for rubber and electrical insulation .. it's inert and even better won't ignite if you ever have to weld after a repair from an accident ... google it and see ... you really don't need much either a liter goes a long long way
I wonder why you does bot use lanolin much better rust protection than only wax.
It is very expensive here
@@BritannicaRestorations clean technical lanolin its expensive? It was mized in 1 to 10 proportions whit oil sa you no need a lot of her :) Read about Lanotec product (its basicaly 20% lanolin and oli)
Nice to see your taking the time to do this crucial step in re assembly Mike. Did Land Rover make any attempts at rust proofing these critical areas during production?
Not a sausage of anti corrosion, apart from some electro static paint which was barely adequate
There is no internal coating on any bulkheads from S1 to the last of the Defenders, it’s all bare steel. The biggest problem is the spot-welded lap joints of the internal door pillar up to the wind screen hinges. Series or Defender, they’re the areas that rot out from the inside first, followed by the outside face of the door pillar below the bottom hinge for just the same reason - a double layer of bare steel that traps water.
none at all , they spent fifty years with this basic design and still never added decent rustproofing ... im glad to say , another forty hours this week welding rusted junk , but folk keep buying it , ill keep welding it .
They used to say to me if you are a Land Rover mechanic you will never be out of work....
once upon a time it was true , trouble now is that they go wrong so often , and are so expensive to fix , which usually is only a fix till the next problem shows , that folk cant afford to keep fixing them look at the number of discovery out there , needing an engine , engine will be 6k min , to fix a 5k car ,, spot the problem.
Mike jaki to środek którym malujesz.pozdrawiam
Mike, I know you have little time, but can you show mastery of this measure in the next film and this red grease, too, greetings.
Gloves mate!