Defender footwell door pillar and upper bulkhead repair Pt 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- / britrest
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Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com
These videos have been a relief for me because I did this job a while back and only replaced the bottom of the footwells. I always wondered if I'd done the right thing. Thanks again Mike.
I have found inspiration from watching these. Having gone through the process of purchasing a brand new galv bulkhead and had to return I am now faced with this as a job. I made my own footwells about 14yrs ago, I even did the bent leading edge where the floor fits and depressed areas for the plastic 'nuts' . they lasted well, just the rest needs work so it will be fun. I do not fancy the after market bits, I may just fab the lot at least then holes will be in the correct place from the go.
The aftermarket parts are not very good - but I find that not many want to pay for a top quality part, and as it is under the mats, then out of sight etc....
You could tell the outrigger was welded on pissed earlier in this series. When you were showing the old bottom pillar bracket bolt tubes were different lengths the original, which was shorter had been cut pissed. The new bracket had the correct length tube I think.
When I was painting for a living we used Sikoflex 221 or Tiger seal, for a neat job run a strip of masking tape either side of where your sealer is going, pipe on the sealer and using the same brush you have brush the sealer out, dipping the brush in panel wipe helps as well, remove the tape and you have a neat edge, looks factory on ford's etc.
I agree and do this on visible seams. but not on footwells - even LR didn't bother with most seams hence all the rust
Makes you wonder that another 1/2 hour or less sealing up the seams, stone chipping the lower footwell inside and out, then injecting the cavities with wax and we would have not of these major rust issues
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations You'd have thought that over the years they would have done something to improve the corrosion resistance, LR Australia galvanised the perentie chassis and bulkhead yet the UK got naf all, what would it have put on the price? Next to nothing.
Weird eh? Australia does not have the corrosion problems that exists in the Northern hemisphere - but they galvanized the steel!
Back in the day I went round the Longbridge factory, then state of the art with robots n all, where they were making metro and Rover 213 bodies. We stumbled upon a spotty youth with a seam sealing gun 'sealing' the side assemblies and throwing the stuff everywhere. Not a chance that those sides could keep the water out. Still he seemed happy enough listening to his walkman and oblivious to the presence of an audience. Wonder what happened to those cars?
Probably scrapped after 4 years because of the rust!
Hi Mike thanks for the update and sharing this video 🤔 well done grand job.🤔 looking forward to seeing more video soon.👍👍👍
I use Seam sealer in Yorshire its similar stuff and is paintable too.
Wow, very nice and thanks so much for putting these up. Given the amount of labor involved, this looks like a very expensive repair. Nice to see a Defender made right, though.
Thanks Barry - so time consuming and really DIY jobs
Mike
Excellent job! I’m doing the same job soon.
You will get your Land Rover wings for this job!
thank you for sharing,.,, well done great job,.. learn lot,.. i buy my first Defender and is not was best like you show in most of videos you post,. i buy from England and now Im restoring,.. is was to late when Im see your first video how to buy and what look for,.. now I have most parts ,.....
Well, now you know where to come to for hep and advice!
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations good afternnoon just has question.... Is worth or hard redoing from Drum brake to disc breaks for 91 defender /110.. just checking.. Thank for info .. Libor/ NC
Brilliance and great commentary. I've got a 2000 TD5 Defender back in my homeland with rotten door pillars and I'm a little worried about assuming they are replaceable so would like to confirm with you if this is the case. Assumptions can lead to all sorts of trouble.
Correct - once you start on door pillars you find the metal behind is rotten too and you end up replacing the sills - As far as I know the D2 sills are not available but D1 are - I am sure they can be made to fit - but not a nice job - especially once you get to the body mounts!
why do we spot weld the footwells. is an alternative solution stainless steel nut and and bolts. certainly easier to take apart later in time.
Do you recommend using a single skin replacement metal foot well or the double skin which I think is closer to original? Ymrl sell both
Hmm, = double skin was always going to rust, but stronger - single - you can rustproof both sides easy. Depends on the metal it is made from and your budget
Just ready to cut out my rotted bits of the footwells. Is there any reason why I couldn't cut out the rusted out bits and weld in stainless?
Stainless to steel welding can be done but it is an art and difficult for DIY
Hi Mike. I have the footwells and full length replacement under windscreen. What caulking do you use. And what sealer do you use between windscreen and bulkhead. Regards William Hopper
I just use regular car body caulking as it is flexible and easy to clean up for the seal I use this DWC500010
I never use silicone
Hi where did you get the proform from ..thannks
Local auto body shop
How many man hours do you estimate for this work? Thank you in advance...
A lot
I think you could do with a break after this 110 job mike, maybe a holiday somewhere.
I have a 90 to trim up which will make some good videos and something I am looking forwards to - after that I am not taking on any more 'projects' Had enough!
Need to get my bathroom finished - been 5 months now!
Mike
What are your thoughts on putting dynamat or other self-adhesive insulation on the outer side of the footwells?
I'm pretty keen on it but concerned it will trap water and cause rust on my 130.
I have never heard of it on the outside Tom - but as you say could be a big rust trap
A few coats of that textured coating will be fine
Is there a part 5 to this series of videos?
How many hours was involved in striping it down and fitting the pillar and top bulkhead section
was a long time ago maybe 2 days = and then they guy did a runner without paying me!