Definitely do highly recommend employing a stretch-gauge on connecting-rods, y`all don't want to end up like me, over stretched bolts will snap! Just imagine that for a minute - the over torqued bolt snaps while you're doing 6K RPM over taking on the highway, the conrod comes off the crank, the piston smashes around in the bore flapping the conrod around as if it were a tail it whips through your block - total carnage! Take my word for it because it happened to me. Make sure you do your homework before you attempt to rebuild an engine. For those interested - I stretched cylinders 1 - 3 to OEM spec, undid them & re-torqued to spec, but ( from other YT videos ) it was suggested the bolts should be stretched 3 times. So I started on cylinder 4 & stretched those connecting bolt 3 times, BUT i thought after finding the 70degree rotation on the third iteration (cyl4) ridiculously tight i decided to do the other cylinders ONLY twice. It goes without saying - cylinder bay 4 decided to vent its anger smashing a large hole through the block! 🤨 BMW M-Sport - N46B20 6speed manual RIP.
I just did this two night ago or so. issue I had was the 30 weight oil wasn't enough for me to turn the bolts to get a good stretch on them they would stop and not turn anymore.. I ended up using a tiny bit of ARP fastener lube and amd the oil. They were still hard to move but I did get a stretch of 0060 on each , right in the center of the spec except for one rod bolt it stretched to 0070 , should I change that bolt? Thanks. manely rods ARP 2000s
Once amount of torque determined to achieve required stretch, can the mechanic rely on the torque setting to set each remaining bolt without checking the stretch with gauge? Just trying to avoid the agony of checking the remaining 14 bolts. Bolts and lube are ARP.
Some aftermarket bolts, yes. An ARP rep talks about that here too 😎 - www.hpacademy.com/blog/horsepower-is-irrelevant-to-your-rod-bolts/ Most OE bolts are just single use - Taz.
@@mihailpetrovici5044 what's up maybe you can help me. I have a set of manley rods that came with the ARP 2000s the spec is 0058-0062 , it recommend using 30 weight oil but I could not get them to turn anymore and they barely had a stretch on them. So I used a tiny bit of ARP fastening lubrication. They were still really hard to turn but I did achieve a stretch of 0060 on all of them but one .. smh 0070 is that one. So it's 0008 over spec while the others are in the center of the spec.. do you think that one bolt will be okay or should I replace it? Thxs
I think that specific one might be from Proform, but if you look up 'connecting rod vice' (or vise) you will find a ton of solid options to choose from and from there you can just find the best supplier for your location 🤘 - Taz.
Hi, i was wondering if connecting rods need to be bored out if you use a higher tensile strength rod bolts such as CARR Bolts/ARP Custom Age 625+ from a stock bolts or a ARP2000? I've read you possibly have to. Could you please explain? :D thanks
I suspect you may have two different things mixed up? The bolts are designed to be a direct replacement and no re-working should be required there and, in the most unlikely event that there is, instructions will be given on the correct procedure - the only thing I'm aware of is that some extreme duty bolts will have a larger radius (curve) between the head of the bolt and the shank (the straight part) which is used to improve the stress loads on that part of the bolt and increase fatique resistance. In that case a 1mm 45 degree champfer is machined at the rod cap. There is another procedure that is sometimes done to connecting rods, though, and that is resizing the big end bearing bore. This may be done for one (or more) of three reasons, usually to OEM rods that are being re-worked for further use (may be due to budget or regulations requiring their use) a/ to correct the diameter if it is a little large for the correct crush b/ the bore is slightly out of round c/ to ensure the rod(s) is/are the correct length(s) - especially where deck/clearance heights (how close the piston top is to the top of the block or cylinder head)are critical. Sometimes this is done with replacement bushings in the small end, drilled to the correct position.
"Shouldn't", but RTFM - **read the instructions that come/came with the bolts** as there "may" be some work required for that specific application* - if you are just considering upgrading the bolts, the manufacturer may have any modifications required on their web site. *For example, one engine I am familiar with has 2 different spec' ARP bolts available for the OEM rods - one specifically DOES need the under-head chamfer and the other is designed for fitting without it.
Can you tell me how long this piece of string is? ie. you have given no information about the engine or product you are considering using and as I'm not that psychic... :-) Comes to that, I don't know what condition the rods you are planning to use are in. One other point to consider is that better rod bolts help protect against their failure at higher rpm - they do nothing to strengthen the rod's under compression or increase the actual rod strength for higher rpm. By that, I mean the two primary forces acting on a connecting rod are compressive (power stroke) and tensile (pulling with the greattest being at overlap) - the first is a result of the combustion forces on the piston and if high enough will cause the 'rod to buckle and bend and the bolts ahave no affect on this, the tensile force is from the piston and rod trying to separate for the crankshaft and the bolts are a critical part in keeping the 'rod firmly in place against the 'cap BUT if the OEM bolts are already stronger than the rod's strength then the rod will still snap at the same rpm, so you need to consider if you really need tham and this is where you use other people's experince with the engine you are planning to use - check out the clubs and on-line forums for what they suggest - it may be a better option to go straight for aftermarket premium 'rods*, especially if you may be increasing the cylinder pressures (boost) or rpm to, or beyond know failure areas. For example, an engine I am more famiar with has two variations, a NA and a turbo, and they both use the same connecting rod and bolts. There are two well know failure conditions, big end bolt failure around 7k rpm (which have been known to fail within the OEM rpm limit of 6k8 rpm) where ARP, or similar, premium bolts allow 8k to be considered reliable with some rolling the dice to 8k5. On the other hand, in the turbo' engines they are considered marginal around 300lbs.ft of torque (a function of boost) and will fail around that mark, or a little higher - using ARP, or other HD, bolts will do nothing to strengthen the rods in that failure mode. *When considering aftermarket connecting rods, be honest with the manufacturers when getting advice as there are design variations between optimising for boost and/or for rpm. They are not the same - an example of something that has good tensile strength, but negligible compressive strength, is a chain.
Hey there Robert, bearing in mind this is one module from a complete course, what you do think is specifically missing in relation to the use of the stretch gauge in a performance engine building application? Keen to hear your thoughts =) - Taz.
you talk too much.What you should do is (1) Take more closer shots to the stretch gauge (2) show us the different stretch gauge readings with different torque applying to that rod. Not a good video hence not a good channel.
![How To Use A Feeler Gauge/Feeler Blade | Performance Engine Building [FREE LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Vb3UsXylby0/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Use A Feeler Gauge/Feeler Blade | Performance Engine Building [FREE LESSON]](/img/tr.png)
This is some in depth stuff. Good to know
Thanks Patrick!
Definitely do highly recommend employing a stretch-gauge on connecting-rods, y`all don't want to end up like me, over stretched bolts will snap! Just imagine that for a minute - the over torqued bolt snaps while you're doing 6K RPM over taking on the highway, the conrod comes off the crank, the piston smashes around in the bore flapping the conrod around as if it were a tail it whips through your block - total carnage! Take my word for it because it happened to me. Make sure you do your homework before you attempt to rebuild an engine.
For those interested - I stretched cylinders 1 - 3 to OEM spec, undid them & re-torqued to spec, but ( from other YT videos ) it was suggested the bolts should be stretched 3 times. So I started on cylinder 4 & stretched those connecting bolt 3 times, BUT i thought after finding the 70degree rotation on the third iteration (cyl4) ridiculously tight i decided to do the other cylinders ONLY twice. It goes without saying - cylinder bay 4 decided to vent its anger smashing a large hole through the block! 🤨 BMW M-Sport - N46B20 6speed manual RIP.
Amazing channel I love this Sick detail to attention , Motorsport science is fun Wish we had this in school I wouldn’t have made it to detentions
Very relaxing voice 10/10
I just did this two night ago or so. issue I had was the 30 weight oil wasn't enough for me to turn the bolts to get a good stretch on them they would stop and not turn anymore.. I ended up using a tiny bit of ARP fastener lube and amd the oil. They were still hard to move but I did get a stretch of 0060 on each , right in the center of the spec except for one rod bolt it stretched to 0070 , should I change that bolt? Thanks. manely rods ARP 2000s
Once amount of torque determined to achieve required stretch, can the mechanic rely on the torque setting to set each remaining bolt without checking the stretch with gauge? Just trying to avoid the agony of checking the remaining 14 bolts. Bolts and lube are ARP.
Can you reuse bolts if you are doing this to check clearances?
Some aftermarket bolts, yes. An ARP rep talks about that here too 😎 - www.hpacademy.com/blog/horsepower-is-irrelevant-to-your-rod-bolts/
Most OE bolts are just single use - Taz.
So the range is 0.005-0.007" for stretch. What number is typically preferred within that range? Min? Max? Middle?
It doesn't probably matter, but if you torques to 40 lb ft and you have 0.005 of strech you don't go anymore
@@mihailpetrovici5044 what's up maybe you can help me. I have a set of manley rods that came with the ARP 2000s the spec is 0058-0062 , it recommend using 30 weight oil but I could not get them to turn anymore and they barely had a stretch on them. So I used a tiny bit of ARP fastening lubrication. They were still really hard to turn but I did achieve a stretch of 0060 on all of them but one .. smh 0070 is that one. So it's 0008 over spec while the others are in the center of the spec.. do you think that one bolt will be okay or should I replace it? Thxs
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty well it's done and over with lol been hitting 9-10k on it alot for over 18k now. Lucky me I guess.. it's 4 cylinder
Where can I find one of those red clamps?
I think that specific one might be from Proform, but if you look up 'connecting rod vice' (or vise) you will find a ton of solid options to choose from and from there you can just find the best supplier for your location 🤘 - Taz.
Hi, i was wondering if connecting rods need to be bored out if you use a higher tensile strength rod bolts such as CARR Bolts/ARP Custom Age 625+ from a stock bolts or a ARP2000? I've read you possibly have to. Could you please explain? :D thanks
I suspect you may have two different things mixed up?
The bolts are designed to be a direct replacement and no re-working should be required there and, in the most unlikely event that there is, instructions will be given on the correct procedure - the only thing I'm aware of is that some extreme duty bolts will have a larger radius (curve) between the head of the bolt and the shank (the straight part) which is used to improve the stress loads on that part of the bolt and increase fatique resistance. In that case a 1mm 45 degree champfer is machined at the rod cap.
There is another procedure that is sometimes done to connecting rods, though, and that is resizing the big end bearing bore. This may be done for one (or more) of three reasons, usually to OEM rods that are being re-worked for further use (may be due to budget or regulations requiring their use)
a/ to correct the diameter if it is a little large for the correct crush
b/ the bore is slightly out of round
c/ to ensure the rod(s) is/are the correct length(s) - especially where deck/clearance heights (how close the piston top is to the top of the block or cylinder head)are critical. Sometimes this is done with replacement bushings in the small end, drilled to the correct position.
GordoWG1 WG1 oh okay. So bottom line is you don't require to machine it if just replacing bolts then.
"Shouldn't", but RTFM - **read the instructions that come/came with the bolts** as there "may" be some work required for that specific application* - if you are just considering upgrading the bolts, the manufacturer may have any modifications required on their web site.
*For example, one engine I am familiar with has 2 different spec' ARP bolts available for the OEM rods - one specifically DOES need the under-head chamfer and the other is designed for fitting without it.
Could you tell me which application for this particular motor?
Can you tell me how long this piece of string is?
ie. you have given no information about the engine or product you are considering using and as I'm not that psychic... :-) Comes to that, I don't know what condition the rods you are planning to use are in.
One other point to consider is that better rod bolts help protect against their failure at higher rpm - they do nothing to strengthen the rod's under compression or increase the actual rod strength for higher rpm. By that, I mean the two primary forces acting on a connecting rod are compressive (power stroke) and tensile (pulling with the greattest being at overlap) - the first is a result of the combustion forces on the piston and if high enough will cause the 'rod to buckle and bend and the bolts ahave no affect on this, the tensile force is from the piston and rod trying to separate for the crankshaft and the bolts are a critical part in keeping the 'rod firmly in place against the 'cap BUT if the OEM bolts are already stronger than the rod's strength then the rod will still snap at the same rpm, so you need to consider if you really need tham and this is where you use other people's experince with the engine you are planning to use - check out the clubs and on-line forums for what they suggest - it may be a better option to go straight for aftermarket premium 'rods*, especially if you may be increasing the cylinder pressures (boost) or rpm to, or beyond know failure areas.
For example, an engine I am more famiar with has two variations, a NA and a turbo, and they both use the same connecting rod and bolts. There are two well know failure conditions, big end bolt failure around 7k rpm (which have been known to fail within the OEM rpm limit of 6k8 rpm) where ARP, or similar, premium bolts allow 8k to be considered reliable with some rolling the dice to 8k5. On the other hand, in the turbo' engines they are considered marginal around 300lbs.ft of torque (a function of boost) and will fail around that mark, or a little higher - using ARP, or other HD, bolts will do nothing to strengthen the rods in that failure mode.
*When considering aftermarket connecting rods, be honest with the manufacturers when getting advice as there are design variations between optimising for boost and/or for rpm. They are not the same - an example of something that has good tensile strength, but negligible compressive strength, is a chain.
Important steps left out. Close but no banana
Hey there Robert, bearing in mind this is one module from a complete course, what you do think is specifically missing in relation to the use of the stretch gauge in a performance engine building application?
Keen to hear your thoughts =) - Taz.
What lube the bolts require and on what parts of the bolt (thread/shoulder)
you talk too much.What you should do is (1) Take more closer shots to the stretch gauge (2) show us the different stretch gauge readings with different torque applying to that rod.
Not a good video hence not a good channel.