HOW TO build an ENGINE block for BOOST + detailed COST breakdown - PROJECT UNDERDOG #11
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2025
- All the parts:
Stock 2nd 4AFE 7 rib engine block
Teardown video: • ENGINE TEARDOWN and AN...
OEM 4AGE late bigport and 20v Toyota crankshaft. Part no: 13401 - 16020
MRP reinforcement caps: www.mrpltd.co....
OEM 4AGZE low compression 8:1 semi forged pistons. 0.5 oversize
www.mrpltd.co....
Part no: 13103 - 16100
Related video: • What are SEMI FORGED P...
MaXpeedingRods connecting rods: www.maxpeeding...
Related video: • UNBOXING budget forged...
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King racing rod bearings:
amzn.to/3EayxDd
King racing main bearings:
shop.battlegar...
ARP 203-5403 main studs
amzn.to/3EcjIjK
A strong engine block is the foundation of every powerful and long lived turbocharged engine and today I'm going to show you in detail the process of building the engine block that I will be using in my turbocharged engine. Addtionally we'll be addiing up the costs of all the elements in the build to see exactly how much a strong, fully machined engine block with all new parts costs. Also links to all the parts you will see in this video are in the description.
The engine I'm building is a modest 1.6 liter Toyota 4AFE whose power output I'm planning to triple by turbocharging it. The planned application is street and track driving which means that this an enthusiast level build and has such a budget.
As I didn't want to remove the existing engine from my car in the interest of keeping it on the road for as much as possible I decided to buy a junkyard engine and build it. Obviously the first step towards building a block is to completely dissemble the engine and the engine block and remove all the internals from the engine block.
As you can see we are working with a pretty old school closed deck cast iron engine block. Although cast iron blocks are heavier than their aluminum counterparts they are a good choice for turbo builds due to their increased strength and rigidity which requires no or minimal reinforcement to cope with high amounts of boost.
Once the block is dissembled the next step I have taken is to do all the necessary machining. And this includes boring and honing the cylinders for 0.5mm oversize pistons and decking the block to achieve a perfectly flat surface for the head gasket.
Another type of machining that is often done is align honing which looks like this. This ensures that all the main bearing tunnels are of equal size and in perfect alignment with each other . Although many machine shops in my are offer this service I decided against doing it because all of my main bearing tunnels were within spec. align honing is good practice but it requires a lot of operator skill and all the tools to be equally worn. I have seen some negative experiences from align honing that unfortunately did more harm than good so after taking into account my current measurements and the difficulty of finding Toyota 4A blocks I decided to not take chances and leave things as they are.
I also machined the block to allow the fitment of oil squirters. This not something that is typically done and it did create some minor damage on the block which needed to be welded up but more on this later.
After all the machining is complete I decided to remove all the loose surface rust on the block to prepare it for painting later on. But what's much more important than rust on the outside is cleanliness on the inside. The block will be full of metal shavings and dust after machining as well as grime and other debris from previous engine operation. This is why cleaning the engine block as thoroughly as possible is incredibly important for any engine build. Any metal shavings or other foreign matter left inside the block can cause engine damage and ruin your investment. I cleaned the block by spraying gasoline under pressure into every nook and cranny. Gasoline is a good solvent and helps remove old oil gunk and grime and it also flushes out metal particles. It is especially important to clean every engine oil passageway. These can be found at the oil filter location, at all the main bearings, as well as inside the block going to the cylinder head.
Another extremely important area to clean is the main oil gallery. In my case it's even more important because I have drilled holes and cut threads into the main oil gallery resulting in a massive amount of metal shavings inside it.
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Check out www.mrpltd.co.nz/ for most of the parts you see in this build
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Thanks, I'm interested to know what process you're using to determine what alternatives there are compared to stock parts from the Toyota Electronics Parts Catalog? For example how did you determine that this 4AGE crankshaft is compatible with the 4AFE engine. How do you find companies like MRPLTD, and what criteria do you use to determine if their parts are of reasonable quality?
Great video as always!
I'm curious, did the shop rebalance the rotating assembly after notching the pistons for the oil squirters?
While it's not a lot of material removed, I'd worry it's significant enough to require rebalancing.
Hello, what is the thread on those banjo bolts for the piston squirters please? I have modified a Ford Pinto block and fitted a set squirters to it, but I would prefer to use valved banjo's instead of the straight through ones.
@@kingcosworth2643 I wish you asked before, they're in now with loctite and I can't check any more. Sorry. But you can use the part number and order one from Toyota to test?
@@d4a That sounds good, have you the part number, or now where I could find it, thanks!
Awesome video! As an engineer, I highly appreciate all the specifications displayed on the screen as well as your reasoning for choosing particular products and solutions for your needs. Even though I don't understand half of it.
While I'm not an engineer, i found myself with far fewer questions at the end of this video than any other DIY guys out there. i don't think i yelled at the screen once hahaha
exceptional content, definitely a new favorite Toober
Honestly, $2000 USD is cheap for a build with this much detail. Amazing work! I think 300HP will be no issue for this engine.
Let's hope so! Don't jinx me 😂
A stock block can handle 300hp
@@kensmechanicalaffair that’s what I thought
@@kensmechanicalaffair For how long though?
@@BigUriel Forever, lol.
Super exciting to see this engine build finally coming together! Can't wait for the first test drive video!! Awesome work, D4A! Love your content.
I usually paint the block any color but black so that any leaks are easier to identify. Great to see a vid of him actually doing something instead of a white board.
When we built the last complete engine I did, the biggest thing was having a plan in place & following it. The engine, a Buick 3.8L/Series II, is on Ward's list of best engines. Machining was fully done, used ARP attaching hardware kits (both stud & bolt). Factory rods are powder metal forged units, Mahle pistons with better ring sizes & longer skirts. Cometic headgaskets. Intercooler (water-to-air). Eliminated the CR balance shaft, Closes double roller chain & tensioner. Upgraded oil pump. It's been 8+ years and it has had exactly 0 hiccups.
Supercharged?
3.8 series 2 is on my list of worst engines
Yo, I’m looking at building a V6 ecotec for my Vs holden statesman, I’m looking at getting around 500-600hp capable of handling an aftermarket supercharger? Easy you reckon or what?
I was searching for a channel exactly like this for years, i found you trough instagram initially.
Thank you for your always enjoyable and especially never boring explanations! Keep up the good work!
13:10... this is what I did with my Chevy Ecotec build I have never had any issues after notching for my oil squirters
14:40... as long as your mains measure 0.0005 within tolerance you do not need to align hone...for main studs...
This was tremendous. Best engine build video I've come across thus far. Your level of detail and explanations are unmatched in my experience.
I can't explain to you how happy I am for your content, there are so many youtubers one here who act like immature clown fools when explaining cars, they goof around like we have time for all the bs entertainment and foul language, so many young hipster trendy foolish behavior, I don't have time for them, its a refreshing experience for your channel, Thank You
My ONLY concern was when modifying the piston skirt to clear the oil squirters. .. there appeared to be some sharp edges. I hope you rounded those off to prevent stress risers. . .
Definitely did that, I just couldn't shoot everything. I was drowning in footage as it is 😂
@Mr T the owner wont like the stress if the bore scratched to hell
@Mr T the ones on my hand? just a cute night lamp
@Mr T HAHAHAHAH
@Mr T i dont mind being gae tbh. i like cute girls
So good job full of details. I am so excited for this build. Can't wait to see it fires up. Go go go.
I cannot stress what a great and educational channel this is, thank you so much for your videos, this is genuinely verging on a free engineering course. ❤️ Love and respect from Malta.
Badassery happening on this channel! Doing things legit is ALWAYS the way to go if you don't want to end up just another MEME. Keep up the awesome work!
hold on. you didnt mention about balancing the piston weights after you added the notch. i hope you did it without mentioning. this build reminds me about my very first engine build but i did N/A 4A-F. a mechanic helped me to torque down and assemble it back to the car. it was such a struggle to tune the engine since i use 4A-GE pistons but managed to make it runs smooth and torquey. what an experience for a mid-schooler me lol
He balanced the pistons when they arrived and its only a small notch. I'd say they'd still be within 1 gram of each other which for 6000rpm will be fine.
If you're going 11,000 then maybe balance them better....
@@1one3_Racing i see. thanks!
Not recommended..
I’m so excited for this build, this will be an inspiration for me for when I build my own.
“Getting the block clean will make you dirty” 😎, your videos just keep getting better, thanks.
Sometimes I'm thinking what these guys do for a living and how they have so much time to spend on such builds. Do they have a family, a mad girlfriend, like wtf? Super happy to see someone put the time and effort, great job!!!
Girlfriend? Your car is your girlfriend.
He does have a family. Just an incredibly hard worker!
Some guys decide to spend more time in the garage due to a girlfirend or wife.
Awesome to see the build coming together! You must be getting excited seeing all these parts actually going into the block!
Seeing a 4AFE (I drive a bone stock T19 Lean Burn Carina) and an Insize calliper (one of my most frequently used tools) made me feel wholesome :) Great project! Love the humble Toyota four bangers!
For increased reliability use full groove main bearings, this guarantees 360 degrees of oil supply to the big end bearings and reduces pulsation in the oil supply to the bearings.
I love the idea of this video, not only is it enjoyable to watch an engine being rebuilt and upgraded, but I like learning so much from clearly knowledgeable person and not a rambling idiot talking too quickly
Looks great! Every boy's dream of building a powerful engine. Love your detail, as per usual. Gotta say though, I find you're very adventurous for adding on those oil squirters and notching your pistons for clearance! Not something I would have the guts to do but I'm very impressed by your intuition.
Man, how did I only just find this channel, this is great.
Great vid and explain. Also it's very good that you show us the parts & costs. Thanks. Up to the next
Did you balance the rotating assembly? Especially the pistons after notching them for oil squirter clearance?
please answer this cause it really bothers me :)
Piston balancing is very important..to gring it like this make the engine vibrate on high rpm.
fr idk why he didnt just rotate the oil squirters.
if you reduce just a small amount from the skirts it will not impact weight much. In this case he will do all 4 equally. I hope he answers your question. What I wonder is if he dynamically balanced the rotating assembly.
@@Mwhbmnabjms Especially a 4 cylinder.
I like this built ❤ it's always nice to see someone using f-head for performance purposes 💪
You are awesome. The content you are creating helps someone like me in understanding engines better. Thank You. Keep it up. Subscribed.
So cool ! I can't wait to see more, your built is finally comming together ! :D
Also, it's nice to see the cost because it's not over the moon and with some saving, might be possible to do one, one day :)
All your videos are highly informative and educational.
for me. it was extremely well balanced, no stroker, stock rods and pistons{.080 over} and headwork done by a specialist. then not touching anything without asking the tuner first. reliable as hell.
im so exited for you project mate! keep it going, i await for more detailed shoots!
Very excited to see it all come together! I can't wait to see the smile on your first track day😎
Its also a good idea to start with a block that has enough rigidity designed in. A block that was never designed with higher horsepower/kw output in mind is not going to take well to forced induction.
One good reason for align honing the main bearing bores is to ensure that they have a common centerline. Your bearing bores may be in spec size wise but there is also a tolerance for alignment.
Sounds like finding the parts is the easy part - finding a machine shop that's capable and trustworthy is the hard part!
Worth a mention here, the thickness of the wrist pin is critical to a good build. I run .200 wall pins and even .250 wall pins on 1000+ hp 2jz engines. Its a lot of added weight but the piston isn't strong enough to support itself and a flexing pin.
Snap ring orientation explanation was cool , learned something today.
This was fantastic! I find myself wishing there was more! Exceptional content, and your accent is also quite entertaining, my wife loves it haha
please continue to fulfill the what, where, why, & how as you did in this DIY. the "when" doesn't seem so necessary. seriously though I have to give credit where credit is due... im not sure if you recited any of this but the execution is superb. Articulated in a very easy to comprehend approach and enough details to answer many questions i have in my head while watching but not too much where it takes away from the point. very educational for the Noobsies and professionally delivered in a manner i didn't mind following along when it was a subject ive probably heard a million times now hahaha very well done sir! you have an appreciative fan here looking forward to the next!
Awesome bro, love what you did with the 4afe block and the adding of the oil squirts, block came out boss man
I use to have a strong 4afe normal aspirated In a Toyota conquest body many moons ago
Amazing video, very educational 👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿
When it time for the first startup plenty of us would like to see it live!
It's always best practice to align hone when changing to studs or adding something like main girdles. Hopefully you don't get any distortion in the block.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
Dude, you got that Slav squat on point!
Awesome vid. Thanks also that you show us the costs. Love it
Great stuff! Looking forward to see what this beast can do. 👍
A real world self build engine, all be it, by someone with good knowledge.
Good price for bore, hone and decking, I charge €500 for a four cylinder 🙂👌
I can’t wait to see it running !!
your videos make me wanna turbo in the future lol. good shit man, keep up the content
Man im hyped up thx for making this video!
Forged Pistons run cooler so people say you don't need squirters and delete them. I think it's still a good idea. They still cool and lubricate the pistons no matter what material they are. With squirters and Turbo oil feed, you just have to make sure you have a good oil pump or modified oem pump.
Good Job there is many thing to think of when use a block not ment for the power you make. Look forward to see it finish and tuned on Dyno. Thanks for uplode.
How much does a shop charge to hone out small bore of the rod
I wish I had you knowledge I’d be working on engines right now :)
About 20 years ago we raced a stock block 350 Chevy and those blocks aren’t the strongest but they do well one thing we figured out is if you run a lightweight rotating assembly it puts less stress on the block and we had a 350 that turned 8000 rpm and ran 1050 in a 3400 pound car and that engine ran for years never broke a block 28 grams at 7000 rpm is 700 pounds of force so when you take 6 pounds or more off the crank lightweight everything else you can get away with a lot more as long as you don’t detonate it
That's very exciting and of course, informative!
Finally! You probably don't remember my complaining on the way you speak... I allways thought that you are a ntive english speaker. Now I finally know that you are from Bosnia ;-) . And that explains a lot ;-) .
Clue: Pretvarac hrde :-D .
Me and you are aligned. But I'm actually doing the turbo on the 4AGE. I'm using the MRP turbo kit from New Zealand, and a Borg Warner 6258 efr. Thank you for showing the oil squirters machined in, I really didn't know how I would get those in. I was considering just using e85 to cool the Pistons but now I might be able to get away with just using oil squirters
why not Garrett turbo? i heard Borg Wargner turbos are not good quality
Some 4AGE blocks come with oil squirters from the factory…especially the later model ones (some 7 rib, not all).
Cylinder heads usually require the most attention. Can also be very complicated as well unless you stay with standard.
Always great content. We appreciate you 🙏
After seeing this, I appreciate even more the fact that all that is needed to push a 40 year old Volvo Redblock squirter block to 500+ HP is just a set of Yoshifab connecting rods. That's it.
If you are talking about the block only so you are totally right but for full engine it needs a lot than that, because of it's bad flow exhaust and intake manifold , bad 530 cylinder head flow as well.
@@joem335 of course. A b234 16v head on a squirter b230 block is the way to go. All it needs for 500+ HP is upgraded valve springs, ARP head studs, connecting rods and of course the 16v head swap with manifolds. Besides making a clearing for the valves in the stock pistons - it's all a bolt on job.
@@msigurko I am building a 500+ now but with 531 8v head on my Volvo 340, i have the 16v head but i prefer the simplicity of the 8v and the extra space under the hood , i know it takes more upgradable parts, but i am looking on the service as it will be a drift project which will fail a lot :)
@@joem335 same here. But I'm building a 945 wagon. I have a friend drifting he's 740 swapped 16v for 9 years now with 0 issues engine Wise.
Excellent video Bro. Keep it up.
Loved the video, great job, very detailed and informative. Thanks :)
Legend says he is still cleaning that engine block to this very day
Very good. Ready for the BOOST!
Terrific and thoughtful presentation! Thank you!
Thank you for the great content. It's educating and enlightening. Spasiba!!
Man this is a really well made video.
Exiting stuff, keep us posted!
Great fun old Toyotas I love the way there's so many interchangeable parts with different engine's & cars throughout the range in the 80s-90s my old mr2 mk1 fitted with supercharged engine also fitted a bigger supercharger from a different model can't remember which then found that gt4 st165 brakes fitted was a track weapon
What he says about the gudgeon pin snap rings when it comes to installation orientation is one of thos things you really do need to check/do. A friends Yamaha Raptor seized and upon pulling it down what had happened is that both those snap rings would of been installed sideways (one still was) and one had snapped in half causing the gudgeon pin to slide to one side and out of the boss in the piston. The remaining boss couldn't cope and broke so the pin got pulled out of the bottom of the piston and as one would imagine. If you install those pins sideways and run the motor at high revs, the snap rings will eventually fatigue and snap.
One of best engines ever made.. Bever stop..
You could put some custom spacers between block and nozzles to get more clearance from piston
But then they would hit the crankshaft
Brilliant video...keep them coming 👏
This video was very informative
I'm assuming the oil squirters on the con rod come through the crank shaft? I wonder how much blocking that off with the new con rods would change the pressures of nearby oil channels. It would probably increase the pressure. Never heard of "too much" oil being a thing. I don't know anything about this stuff.
To much oil can lead to crank windage
This is going to be fun to watch :-)
boost is pricey!
but info given here is priceless!
Shipped a full 5.0L crate motor from east coast to FRA by air for $650. But that was two years ago. Not surprised if that price has doubled by now.
You make this look so easy to do lol Making me wanna upgrade / build my 1.4L engine
Did you balanced rods ,pins and pistons, especially after doing that pistons mod. Love your channel!!!
We checked the weights, all were within 1 gram so we left them alone.
This is gonna be a great build in the end
This is awesome, I did the same as you with a 3SFE, with maxpeeding rods, 3sgte pistons and crankshaft with arp, my isn’t done yet, i need to machine the head because a high compression, the 3SFE look too similar to the 4afe.
I enjoyed so much this video, nice nice niiiice chanel, you made me love Toyota engines, I'm more a Mitsubishi fan but toyota it's nice, also fun it's that in 8:35, first no gloves, then gloves, I think that piston was hot hahahahaha, thanks for that video!
4a blocks are pretty strong a few locally has been pushed to the 1000hp on the stock cast block
any chance you can give a source link of one. all the ones i keep finding are opposing to the idea that a 4a can realistically make it to 1000 let alone 500
@@renz1013 look up Mr pistonator and Richard Jordaan ,Mr pistonator ran a 7.2 quarter on an 1885cc 4a
@@Realtime1501 right thanks.
@@Realtime1501 I assume that's drag racing figures. D4A is building his engine for road/racing use.
And I thought the squirter is a low friction way to bring oil into the piston and from there to the piston walls on the way up. Laminar flow nozzle and then a skimmer in the piston. I thought the crank already throws oil aimlessly at the large piston bottom face.
I also did not know that the bearings are divided. I think adjacent cylinders should share a spherical bearing and oil for the conrods comes from the outer bearings. Electric oil pump to squirt oil piston pins before the first ignition.
Big badda boost!😁
Scrapped my FE for $50NZD last month.
Hey ! I was wondering that diesel engines are inherently build stronger to sustain higher pressures due to compression ignition. So,is there a way that we can use its block to install bigger turbos and use gas instead ?
A block isn't necessarily the weak point of gasoline engines nor a strong point of diesels. What fails first is usually the rotating assembly and less often the block or cylinder itself. You will probably ruin everything else in the rotating assembly before you bust a decently designed cast iron gasoline engine block. All that being said I guess you could use a diesel block for a gasoline build but you would need so many custom things in most cases that in the end you will probably spend too much money to justify it. Many modern diesels aren't even cast iron anymore, they're aluminum.
@@d4a Makes sense. I knew if someone could answer it, it would be you ! Thanks !!
First you would need to find a suitable cylinder head for gasoline or have a custom one built. Most diesels have a lot of the combustion chamber built into the pistons so they would need to be changed as well for custom built units. Then you have the issue of heavier flywheels on diesels. Diesels generally rev slower than gas engines so the rotating assembly may not be as capable of higher RPM and the camshaft would be built for lower RPM as well.
Overall you would be better off doing some research into gas engines to see which one can handle the increased pressure. The 2JZ and RB engines have been run with lots of boost by many owners.
Running high boost pressures means you will likely need a fully forged rotating assembly on any engine.
Theres a TH-cam channel where they have a “diesel 2j”
Its a 2j block with a diesel head i think
@@Tom-li9xq someone in sweden bolted a volvo s60r head in an inline 5 diesel volvo engine block, and it worked out fine
Thanks for this incredibly useful video!
I love this channel. Thank you :P
This was way more of a pain in the ass than I thought it would be lol. I guess engine building is a bit more involved than just buying some parts and bolting it together.
Yeah it is lol. A buddy of mine thought it's easy to buy some engine parts and bolt them on, so he asked me if I can do it real quick for him and I told him it needs quiet some time to install the desired parts and also a few visits to a machine shop and after I calculated him the total that he probably had to spent on the machinist and then the estimated time that I will probably spend on his engine + that his car will be undrivable for some time he said: "Yeah you know what? I guess only a remap should be fine". lol
I've had engines completely assembled and had to take them back apart and clean every single part and fix something and the. Reassemble them. There's so much work involved in doing it the CORRECT WAY
I am looking to build my 96 4AFE Corolla with a SC 12 supercharger using as many stock parts as I possibly can. I do have a SC 12 intake manifold as a template because the fourAFE is drastically different. So that will need to be custom-made. And I’m doing this just to see how we can handle boost. My second plan is to Frankenstein a manual 2AR Out of a sion TC into my 96 rolla lol
Everything looks to be done very professional. BUT, about those "material removing" from the pistons, I have a question, or two. When you remove material from the pistons, you are modifying the piston's weight and that will have an influence, lather on, on how balanced the engine is, especially at high rpm. We used to weight all the components for themselves and at the end, the pistons assembled on the rood, in order to make sure that all of them weight the same, in order to have an engine as balanced as possible. And no two. I have, in my younger day's, renovated some engines, like an Alfa Romeo 2.0 from '62 (if I remember correctly, that on this engine was important what I will say now) and if I remember correctly, the piston, mounted on the rod, have to frilly rotate in ONE and ONLY direction. So, by removing material from the piston, will this not change that kind of "necessary unbalance"?
They might still be within a gram or so of each other since he balanced them in the beginning. It won't be a high reving engine so I don't imagine it will make a noticeable difference when tuning.
This made my day
Wow thanks for al the use full information!
Im building a 7age engine(also turbo charging it) and happen to have almost the same setup you are using! 4agze pistons with max speeding rods 😂💪🏻. I assume i can use most of the modifications you use and i think im gonna use your video as a base line for my build! Just waiting for a crank sprocket to correct the timing for the conversion and then i can start building 💪🏻
Very nicely detailed step by step on building the engine block. What process was used for the block weld repair, and why was it necessary?
An engine shop wanted to charge me $400 for decking the block, your prices are very reasonable.
Beautiful, Beautiful!
The most expensive thing about this now is spraying the block with gas
Nice, I suppose the AFE head doesnt flow as well as an AGE or a blacktop 20v but boost will take care of much of that issue anyway. But I guess a well flowing head would reduce the need of boost and torque in the midrange.
It's not that simple 😉
th-cam.com/video/Ea5G0Jnvum0/w-d-xo.html
@@d4a Great video, I actually thought for some reason that the wide angle would give a straigher port into the chamber. But I do not think I understand why you go with the AFE after all. The AGE has multiple benifits as you pointed out, ability to adjust cams, probably better intake and exhaust flow (after porting?). Or are you looking for a high torque low rpm street engine? You probably thought about it already but the AFE probably needs harder springs or it might get valve float pretty quickly with the boost. Great to se a 4A build instead of K-series that we are drowning in at the moment.
When prepping a block for high horsepower/boost, sleeving the cylinders/coating them with hard material and honing them straight, smooth and true is the first step to good results. Also, machining flame ring grooves to the deck surface, truing crank journals and polishing the insides for optimal oil flow is crucial on creating a reliable package. Your honing finish creates a lot of friction, metal dust and wear on pistons, rings and cylinders, blow by, cank case pressure, resulting in a significant output power loss, your untrued crank journals without the additional skirt lets the crank vibrate causing top end power loss and lowering the rev range, your additional oil squirters with the vibrating crank are failures waiting to happen. And, every time when a high horse power race engine is built, it needs to be balanced. This procedure widens the torgue range and gives the rotating assembly exponentially longer lifespan. N/A or power adder, both need to be balanced. N/A responses better to lighter materials, higher compression and different style of slide bearings, but both need balancing. Unbalanced rotating assembly in a turbo application kills rods, bearings, blocks and hundreds of horse power. For 1.6 16v, 300hp is N/A number. 600 hp is the baseline for boosted, and has been done with carbs and points. In any modern setup, the real goal is 1000+hp.
Derp