Diagnose & Fix Z-Axis Issues on 3D-Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2019
- Hi, everybody!
In this video, I show you how I diagnosed and fixed a recent Z-axis problem on my JGAurora A5!
This issue is not bound to a specific printer but can occur on different machines. I still don't know what caused it, but how to fix it!
If your Z-axis causes strange movement-sounds, you have to re-level the bed ever too often, or your prints are somewhat "pressed together", this solution might help you!
This is the first video of 2019, and you can expect more to come pretty soon (if I don't get the flu again...)!
If you have any questions or feedback, make sure to leave it down below! I try to come back to you ASAP (normally within a day).
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great stuff
Thanks for your feedback!
I have the same problem on my JG A5. I have my Z-axis Vref set to .859V, but the problem with the left motor (facing front) persists. The noise and gantry misalignment occurs within 12-15mm above the bed.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I know, it's always quite annoying if you have to debug issues like this...
So you got an actual misalignment after some height? Check whether the couplers are screwed tightly, I had that once on my TronXY X1!
I measured the VRef and it's around .9V after the adjustments. I also greased both leadscrews, which made them move easier.
I wouldn't go above .95V or so without cooling, as it could lead to skipping Z-layers because of overheating.
If you move the z-axis using the move axis menu, does the same misalignment happen or is it randomly?
The misalignment occurs all the time. Last night I decided to add some grease on the lead screw while running my finger I found tiny piece of scrap which came off on my finger. I releveled the gantry and it looks like problem is gone. Clean lead screws makes a difference!
That's true. Especially as both motors use the same driver, the gantry shouldn't get out of alignment.
Thanks... my problem was a issue with the right hand z-axis motor.... didnt have to watch the whole vid, just had to hear potential low current.... double checked, and yep, i did not connect the damn wire to that motor. Goes to show.... double check connections peeps. Found this helpful, thought i had it connected for sure! Dang it
Hi Michael,
Thanks for your feedback! I'm glad that my video was helpful.
Sometimes it's the easy things that you oversee ;-)
I found that the Z-Axis rods needed a little oil but to be honest my JGAurora went wrong so often that I got tired of waiting for parts to arrive from China and gave in and got myself a CR10 mini and that machine just keeps going and going compared to the A5
Hi, thanks for the comment!
I put some bearing grease on them (as that's the only thing I had at home) to keep them lubricated. However, the issue shown was definitely a motor driver problem. I actually wanted to publish another video about the A5 yesterday, but ended up trying to fix some Z-axis issue again all weekend that turned out to be a loose plug... However, my A5 is still far more reliable than my Anet A2+!
I have not CR-10 so far but might possibly get one later this year.
Hey good instruction, i have not used my jgaurora A5 for a few months then when i turned it on my gantry was not aligned either so tried manually turning screw each side to level but eventually goes back out of alignment is their any simple way to adjust with out taking machine apart ? Your advice would be really helpful ! Thanks
Hi Tom,
Yeah, it might work without disassembly. Try to add some oil to the leadscrews and move the gantry up and down a few times. This alone should help a lot. If the problem still persists, you might need to tune up that driver a little bit. But not too much, otherwise you get some compressed layers as the drivers overheat and shut down.
@@Caverntwo hey C two, thanks a million for the advice, as I'm not great at fixing when it comes to electrical so will give it a go. Cheers 🥂
You're welcome!
Let me know if that worked for you.
@@Caverntwo Hey C2, I had my doubts but looks like your advice worked a treat and solved the problem, Thanks a million :)... one more thing It just wants to print at bottom left corner of heat bed had this issue before but can't remember how I resolved it :(
Nice to hear that it worked out. I know, it would be wise to deliver this kind of advice in my videos as well, but at the time of filming, I didn't know about that yet ;-)
If the printer just prints in the corner, it is more likely caused by wrong settings in the slicer software (printer size, center settings, etc) than by the printer itself.
What slicer do you use?
Hey could I get some help too? Just if you have any spare time. I believe my printer came with all broken endstops and the heating doesn't work either! Am I missing something?
Hi, thanks for the comment.
As many things don't seem to work at once, check all wire connections. Also, open up the machine and take a look inside. Especially on/near the board and at the sockets going to the gantry.
I don't know about your experience with 3d printers, so if you want, you can send me some images via email (address in About section of the channel).
There are many more possibilities to debug, so let's just get started with the most simple one. Trust me, I also have experience with not-connecting wires...
@@Caverntwo amazing thank you! I sent an email with plenty of pics! I would say I have a low to intermediate experience, I've done plenty of matience on an Adimlab I own
I've replied to your mail. The issue seems like it needs a lot of debugging. BTW, how's your experience with the ADIMlab?
With the new motherboard version, there is no more the pot to trim the current on the drivers. I managed to fix the issue by removing entirely the 2 lead screws and clean them carefully by removing old grease and dust in the thread + applying new grease. We can feel the torque difference due to friction when testing manually the leadscrew in the nut. Now I have an other issue: the Z movement is only working up and not down anymore. the Z switch works properly however.
Does it make a sound when trying to go down, but isn't able thanks to the motors being too weak?
What mainboard do you have? I know there are stepper drivers that are way more advanced than my cheap basic A4988 nowadays. If you have one of them, great, as they can then even be programmed either by flashing the firmware or using a GCODE command.
See this page for more info: marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/tmc_drivers.html
Yes, sound during movement as if missing steps. I have the main controller V1.0 (I saw a V1.3 available on marketplace with separated stepper driver A5984 + TMC2208 with the trim pot). Mine is equipped with embedded A5984 without trim pot. So finally I have the old version I guess.
@@jackmalone138 Then it's very likely that the driver's output is too weak. Has it worked with your setup in the past? If so, what did you change?
If the driver isn't calibratable, getting another mainboard is also an option. BTW what printer do you have?
As said in my first post, the issue has been resolved just by a deep cleaning of the lead srews (the old dusty grease induced a higher torque). I own a A5S.
Oh, my bad. I thought you improved it but the issue still exist. Awesome to hear that it worked for you!
Hi Caverntwo, can i have the full working firmware for the JGArora A5 from you mine motherboard is blowup and i have to install new, i am sure you can make for me.
Hi, I'm sorry to hear that your board is broken.
You have three ways to get a firmware up and running:
1. Community Firmware
Here you can find a community firmware for the A5, it's already adapted:
jgaurorawiki.com/a5/firmware
2. Marlin with example configuration:
Here's the example configuration for the latest Marlin 2.0. If you're wondering how to install it, I'm currently creating a video about it for my Anet printer. Should be ready during this week.
3. Adapt Marlin yourself.
This probably takes the most time and is quite annoying.
When I updated the firmware to increase the default acceleration, I chose option 2.
@@Caverntwo hi, ya i waiting yours so that i can see how to do the setup, i try before the one you say but its full errors and settings and that i dont know just how to solve this issues thats why i ask you if you have the working settings, thanks already foor the support, regards Jean
@@jeanvanleekwijk436 I hope that my upcoming video, hopefully released on Thursday or Friday, will clarify some of it. If not, just let me know.
Pls help.
I am using z axis dual stepper (with 2 a4988 drivers) , 1 connected to z axis, while other to E1
Homing or manual movement command(i.e. G28, lcd auto home, or pronterface axis movement) works just fine.
G1 X_ and G1 Y_ works fine as well.
*BUT*
When I do
G1 Z10 or G0 Z10 (along with feedrate of 1000-2000) , one motor rotates fast while other a bit slower, resulting in slanting the x axis.
PLs help I have tried using different feedrates but failed
Hi Arman,
That sounds interesting. Your setup seems correct. What version of Marlin do you use? Can you try swapping the drivers between the two Z motors (when powered off, of course) just to be sure it's not a driver-related problem?
@@Caverntwo
Thankx for a quick reply...
I changed the z_current to 6.5(from 8) and lowered the feedrate to even less like 150.
So i ran.
G0/G1 Z5 F150 then it worked.
*It is normal to lower down the feedrate to even 150mm?*
(1.8degree /step is my nema17 with a4988, pot on 1.12 V which i believe is absolutely correct.
150 mm/min seems quite little. Although, for a z axis with leadscrews, you have to go slower than for belt driven systems. It kinda seems to me that one of your drivers is skipping steps or something.
I can't argue about the voltages, as they can vary between different A4988 drivers, depending on the electronics they use.
I'll look up the code to see if there are any settings I cannot remember now which might cause your issues.
Try moving more, like 150mm or something, at once, so that you can see clearly differences between the axes.
Also, move up and down a few times and check if a driver might be overheating. In such case, it will stop working for very short amounts of time (
@@Caverntwo thankx thats great help...ill try moving it up and down with G0...though lcd manual control for z works fine....but still
Also, when I Do G0 Z5 F150, I believe it should move only 5mm but definitely it move somewhere around 5cm. So I'll better check the steps too. Thankx again for ur help
Are you sure that you are in relative mode? You can send G91 to set it. Marlin always starts in absolute mode, for me at least.
But I think that you're in the right track!
You're welcome, just let me know if you need some help.
I can't even begin to describe what is going on with mine but dear Lord I need help :(
Oh no! What's the problem?
@@Caverntwo I wished I could show a video or pic to show you. I just got it in today from Ebay... Go figure lol
Well anyways. The left side of the arm that comes down where the extruder is? It's comes down really off. And the the thing that makes it come down on the left side is bent pretty bad. I'm guessing that's the problem
You could send me an email with pictures or videos attached or connect to me via Telegram. You can find the contact information in the About tab of this channel.
what if the Z axis is stretched?. so, like I expect 10mm but I get 8.2 near home.. raise it up above 120mm and I get 10.
If that's the case, it looks more like a mechanical issue. Is there some obvious damage to the spindles?
@@Caverntwo I've increased the steps/mm by 50 for testing and near the bed it is dead on 10mm but at 200 mm to 210 mm it mesures 12.3 The machine is brand new.
@@JeffreyKretzler This can have multiple issues. I'd try the following things first:
1. Check whether the spindles are properly attached to the motors. Maybe the small screws on the couplers got lose.
2. Go to 200mm, then turn off the printer and come back 10 mins later when it cooled down and see if the issue still persists even if you start at 200mm without going to 0 first.
Btw, what printer do you have?
@@Caverntwo I have the voxelab aquilla. The spindle was my first guess. I've raised the steps/mm to make the first 0 to 20 mm perfect, but at 200mm to 220mm it measures 22.8. I thought this might be binding so I flipped the lead screw upside down but it doesn't change.
@@JeffreyKretzler Does it only have one Z-leadscrew with one motor? If so, it could happen that it is somewhat out of balance because the weight is on one side only and there's some play. I had such issue on my Anet A2+, and solved it by putting the leadscrew with motor in the center of the gantry. Might be possible with your machine too.
Here's the video where I described my solution: th-cam.com/video/cELZjbLpKp8/w-d-xo.html
şahran Aksel
0 seconds ago
Hi,
I'm sorry, I'm new would you please help me about replace my ender 3 2 pcs 300mm z reals with 2 Pcs 2040 CNC 3D Printer Parts European Standard Anodized Linear Rail Aluminum Profile Extrusion for DIY 3D Printer Black (600mm) would you please show me how can i change z number from 250mm to 60? please. thanks
You will need to update the firmware on your printer and adjust the Z-max value there. Here's a video that should get you started:
th-cam.com/video/EQoae6oXszE/w-d-xo.html
Bla bla bla and no solution....
Hi, thanks for your feedback!
I'll try to improve in my next videos.
? You didn't understand that that grinding sound was due to low motor current and skipping? Good luck sir.