🔴 Creality Ender 3 V2 Dual Z Upgrade - Fix Z Axis Problems ! - No.1079
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ธ.ค. 2022
- Creality Ender 3 V2 Dual Z Upgrade - Fix Z Axis Problems !
I walk through step by step adding a dual Z axis upgrade to my Creality Ender 3 V2 3D printer.
The same process can be used for the original Ender 3 (you just need to re-mount the power supply).
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Links for items used:
Ender 3 dual Z upgrade kit: defs.link/?u=30a9aca
Nut Drivers: defs.link/?u=a8f02b3
Hex Drivers: defs.link/?u=b682f96
Two Trees PEI sheet: defs.link/?u=db5b412
Stepper Heatsinks: defs.link/?u=3b75bf3
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A very good method for building these things, keeping it all slack until its all lined up and keeping cable routing in mind. on my CR10 and £nder 3 (early models) I use a similar method to myfordboy uses using a drive belt above the gantry to sync both leadscrews on a single stepper, as I learned the hard way that when using 2 steppers for Z axis they can go out of sync when the machine is turned off.
Print yourself a pair of gantry trestles, it makes life a lot easier aligning your gantry, don't use them on the bed but set them from the lower frame to the gantry, rest it on them and tighten up - no measuring needed - that will square the gantry to the frame after that square the bed to the gantry and your golden
Catching that bit that was not at a right angle was absolute gold. I had been trying to figure out where I went wrong and it wasn't me, it was that piece being off from 90 just a bit. Fixed the issues I was having, thank you for saving me loads of time trying to figure out what was wrong!
Sir. THANK YOU I am a guy who likes step by step easy to follow videos and this was exactly that. I was concerned with installed my dual z axis upgrade but following you was so easy to understand. Thank you thank you 🙏🏽
I bought the dual x axis upgrade kit also. I have an Ender 3 pro. The written instructions were pretty poor. The you tube videos helped a lot.
I am glad it was helpful.
Absolutely brilliant! I wish I found this one first - ticked all the boxes and then some. Thank you!
I just found this video while researching a problem that I'm having with my Ender-3 Pro, after the upgrade. I used to use the belt driven dual Z axis and it worked quite well. But, being a machinist by trade, I wanted more accuracy and less load on a single motor.
Now, after installing the exact same upgrade that you use here, I'm having an issue with my Z steps increasing, ever so slightly, as the Z value increases with the error being cumulative.
Originally, it was the opposite with the Z axis not moving enough per step. So, following some advice I found through various forums and content from relative experts in this field, i bumped the current to the Z motors by about 15mA to compensate for the slight increase in load. This solved that issue. But, now I've got this new issue of excessive movement.
I'm going to do a full realignment later today after being inspired by this video. I'll probably drop the current back down after that too.
Any thoughts on what could be causing the excessive movement would be most appreciated though. It's been baffling me for a week straight now.
Thanks in advance and excellent video. By far, the most detailed and in depth I've seen yet.
Addendum: after loosening everything and checking for alignment and proper torque of everything, I discovered that the motors were fighting one another.
With the machine unplugged, I turned the Z axis to raise the gantry and felt a lot of feedback and clicking. Disconnecting the second Z motor eliminated this. I tested this a few times and got the exact same results. Moving one motor would cause the other to move in the same direction.
I'm in the process of reverting back to my belt setup now.
Terrific video thanks mate. Got me all sorted with my ender 3v2
Great help, great video. Just upgraded my Ender 3 V2, you helped me so much. Thanks dor this
This is incredible. Thank you. I hope mine goes as smoothly as yours.
This was very useful. I just ordered mine since I will be attaching a relatively heavy clay extruder.
I tightened those 2 black screws too early like you did. Big mistake. Now it's binding and I stripped one of the screws so it's stuck in there 😢
Fantastic video, helped me a lot!!
All the best for Xmas and the New Year Defpom, many thanks for your excellent content throughout 2022, cheers!
Thank you, happy Christmas
Pretty cool nice little upgrade 👍... I recently picked up the Ender S1 Pro I am pretty impressed with it so far
mine should arrive soon so will be revisiting this video too.
Best 2nd z axis install video out there. Thanks man! This helped me sort out all the misalignment issues we created as we installed the second z on our creality.
I bought a z upgrade that uses belt drive off of the original lead screw at the top. TH3D Studio carries a z upgrade like this. You don't have to worry about 2 steppers being in sink
That’s what I was thinking of…
Could you post the link?
Thanks
So around 31:30 you mention the excess wire they didn't prune down. I wonder if they just make one size that covers the larger Enders as well. For cost wise with manufacturing it might be cheaper to pump all of them out in such a manor. Good video, I will be referencing it during my install soon. Thanks
My printer has an inductive abl probe so i must use the PEI, glass under the PEI is a nice way to have it flat
Adding the bracket on top of the acme screws reduces the height of the z-axis. I learned the hard way. I removed mine and my prints come out fine.
As I said I don’t print stuff that tall anyway so my case it didn’t matter.
Thanks a lot for the video! Definitely helped me installing the second axis :D But unfortunately I couldn't get rid of z-axis binding with dual z.
I tried everything I read online, and even reassembled the whole printer from scratch. So the video helped me with uninstalling the second z axis as well :D
You don't have the same kit then you have to adjust the voltage on the board the motors aren't getting enough power.
@@leonapelletier9659 Thanks a lot for the advice, I'm gonna try that this weekend!
To couple the two lead screws together, you can use 2 30 tooth gt2 pulleys with a 640mm gt2 belt. Other combinates can be used.
they have separate motors there's no point in coupling them together. get a new mainboard and ditch the splitter. run the motors separate and get automatic gantry leveling and you're on your way
I've got the Ender 3 pro with the dual Z motors i added longer lead screws and put some GT2 belt and pulleys on the top with a tensioner . Mine was also a V2 and one thing i hated about it was the display . So i went back to the V1 display. And added the BL touch . Also i have dual extruders and i run Marlin software
I switched to the Jyers UI on my Ender 3 V2 and upgraded the screen firmware and any file names wider than the screen scroll across.
Tied up very tight
I just completed this mod tonight on a brand new Ender 3 V2 Neo and the gantry feels extremely tight when I try to raise or lower it. This is after I loosened the two motors and two cap covers in an attempt to align them. However it doesn't appear to have any issues with the motors moving it up and down. Is this normal?
I also noticed on the Neo before any mods were made that the X-belt has three grooves in it. The first groove catched exactly in the middle of the gantry. Each of the other two catch closed to the each side and seem to be equally spaced apart from the aluminum frame. Is this normal?
I made the mistake of changing my bed when I also did this upgrade. Now I can't seem to get my prints to come out smooth. I've leveled it several times, played with the z offset, tried different PLAs, now experimenting with adjusting speed and fan. I'm relatively new and it's just frustrating trying to get this to print half as well as it did before I did the upgrades. I'm about ready to remove this one and at least see if I can get it back to printing like it was.
make sure everything is running smoothly and not binding up.
I would have thought 2 steppers AND a link belt would have the steppers fighting eachother, so hmmmm it's either/or I think.
My AnyCubic i3 mega has 2 steppers and works great.....so your 2 steppers should be a great upgrade.
I think linking them with a belt would be OK if it isn't tensioned right up so it has a bit of give in it, all it has to do is stop them going out by a large amount, a small variation won't matter.
I’ve seen in other videos increasing voltage. Either I missed it in your video or it’s just not necessary. Thoughts? Thanks for the video
In my case it wasn’t required, working fine without adjustment
What screwdriver set were you using? I need those in my life.
It’s an ifixit set, they sent them to me to review a few years ago, highly recommended.
You will need to let us know how it works out in practice.
Whether you get alignment creep as the two shafts electrically and not mechanically connected?
Funny I can’t find the upgrade on their web site but can find sellers everywhere else.
Was thinking of fitting the direct drive extruder to mine and this looks like it should be done first, to take the weight of the servo on the gantry.
So please report back on any issues as as usual there are 5* and 1* reviews for this modification/upgrade.
I have done a couple of prints so far after doing this upgrade, it worked perfectly, I used this printer in the live stream last weekend to print the replacement impeller for the Quick 861DW and the only issues there were my print settings.
@@TheDefpom well i might upgrade after christmas might get a bit cheaper in the sales.
The best thing is that if it don't work out i still have a use for a sero and shaft.
@@TheDefpom hey any problems 3 months on? Trying to save some v2 neos that are dogsh...
@@oldman_eleven working fine, I did pick up a z belt kit which I will try adding too, haven’t got around to it yet.
@@TheDefpom fantastic! Thanks for the response 👍
hey I know this video is from 3 weeks ago but I followed your video step by step (it was great) but I noticed a weird noise when turning on my ender 3v2. When the Z-axis moves it makes a very subtle rumbling noise and one of the stepper motors also makes a weird noise as well (almost sounds like a very quiet jet engine). When I click disable steppers the noise goes away. Any clue what you think could be causing this?
Sorry I don’t know, try unplugging one stepper motor at a time and see if it goes away, maybe they are not aligned to each other’s height and they are fighting each other (just a guess)
Not a pro but try double checking the the silverthread lock is not touching the bottom of the stepper motor. Also if you are using the top pieces to hold the threads in place remove them see if it goes away, if the thread rods are not perfectly straight they cause issues
I know this is mont old but i have the exact same problem, was fighting with it half day and i'm about to give up and revert to single axis...
Sid you manage to fix that problem ? If yes can you explain how ?
How do you hold the glass in place without clips
you need clips
@@TheDefpom I put glue stick on the metal and put the glass down and it seems to work lol
You didn't turn up your z stepper amps to run both motors.
I didn’t need to, it has been running fine like this since doing the video all those months ago.
@TheDefpom okay.. I put a timing belt on my custom ender extender and it was just enough to make them skip and not want to move so I turned them up to 2 volts and it's perfect now.
doing that upgrade doesn't implies regulating the Z driver ??? 2 steppers motors, double the current i guess...
Why do you not have to raise the milliamps for the Z motor driver since it is driving 2 steppers?
Mine seems fine, I guess it’s because the pair of motors are lifting the same total weight but is now shared between them
Is this kit works also for the v2 neo ?
I don’t know, possibly
It does. I just did it a few hours ago.
@@SirVergil thanks for the reply
@@zivtavivcreative You're welcome
@@SirVergil did you felt change in the printing with this kit ?
A proper design has the axial load bearing at the bottom and the top of the screw is free floating. The typical stepper motor doesn't have an axial load bearing. The flexible coupling allows for movement in the z axis, so that hurts accuracy. With the screw fixed at both ends, any bend in the screw will cause Z wobble. You would be better to copy the gold standard working configuration used by Prusa with a motor that has the screw directly attached and no bearing at the top. These upgrades look fun, but the results will be variable unless you use a proven design with high quality parts. In the end you may have a good printer, but it will have no resale value. Unfortunately there is little to no measured results for Z axis accuracy published for printers in the 3-D printing world. If you want good results, accurate measurement is required. I used a micrometer to measure the accuracy of the z drive in my Prusa and compared it to my two Wanhao D6 printers. The Wanhao had 10 % variation in the height of a 0.2 mm layer. The variation of the Prusa was below my caliper resolution. Needless to say the sides of the prints from the Wanhao printers are wavy crap.
remove top brackets from lead screws, they should spin freely or you will got z axis wobble, Also you should change this shitty bowden extruder to direct.
Why doesnt creality fix it ?
because they wanna keep the price down? lol