I am loving these daily videos. It’s been something Ive look ed forward to these last few days for sure. Hats off to you camera girl for getting er done while sick.
Keep up the videos soldier. And always remember that nobody who watches these videos is here to learn how to do anything you demonstrate. They're here because you're a big personality and natural entertainer. They like a subject matter expert who provides honest entertainment while also being a no frills honest man. Crank out the videos because the people love you and camera girl more than the knowledge you provide.
The high octane joke was an absolute banger! Also love that you both simultaneously had two jokes ready to fire. So good. A genuinely hilarious moment! 😆
I stripped a professionally painted hood one time. Used Aircraft brand stripper. The key was sanding the paint before hand with 80 grit to allow the stripper to permeate into the paint better.
Wrap item to be stripped in white paper towels, then wrap it all in saran-wrap, leave a gap at the top, dribble some acetone on the paper towel at the top, the acetone will get soaked up and distributed all around by the paper towel, and the saran-wrap will keep it from evaporating. The acetone-soaked paper towel will be in direct contact with the paint and whatever paint there is will either lift in sheets or rub right off after a while of soaking. This is the most efficent way of removing paint with acetone. Only to be used on acetone-resistant substrates, obviously.
The yellow aftermarket tank is probably made of HDPE (high density polyethylene). Nothing really sticks to it because the fuel vapours actually permeate the tank. Furthermore, the gray paint seems to be primer... so basically the primer has been "prestripped" by the fuel vapours all it's life. You probably only have to give it a stern look and it will come off. Btw, because of it's permeability, these tanks cannot be painted, the paint will just bubble off. Same goes for normal stickers, they will develop fuel bubbles and peel right off. That is why dirtbike tank decals usually are perforated and use this thick gooey glue. The other tank looks like fiberglass. This can be painted as it won't let the vapours through... so this may be 2 pack paint, which will fight you all the way. Your best bet is to key sand it and paint over it. But then again, I may be totally wrong and it's just magic.
Thanks for the comment! You are right on almost everything. Except that the XL tank is metal, which, would be similar to fiberglass in that it won't leach vapors. And the paint on the yellow tank took more like 2 stern looks to come off.
@@prdoohan Hi there. It could be hydro dip but that stuff isn't strong at all. It has to be clearcoated with 2 pak clear. That makes it strong. If you don't do that it's as strong as bubblegum tattoos.
I just picked up a dirtbike, that has a similar paint problem, so this will be interesting. It'll save me some time hopefully. Thank you for your videos
Use the orange scented oven cleaner. It does not harm plastics like acetone and carb cleaner do. Put a thick coat on it, store it in a plastic bag so it stays moist for 2-3 hours and then wipe it off. Very little scraping required.
Back in the day- I believe it was in the mid 80s I repainted a Jeep CJ5. I went to my local DuPont auto refinish store & purchased a gallon of Pyrox paint remover. This stuff would take the glue off grandmas dentures. Only took about 3- minutes & I was looking at bare metal. Reference for future use. Hope you feel better camera girl.
I suggest you use aircraft striper. Coat the tank and cover with plastic bags to contain the solvent. Let IT work for a while depending on the temperature. Remove the lifting paint with bondo spreader and a plastic brush to get most then blast it with water to get the rest. That's how we strip aircraft.
Citristrip gel and wrap in plastic to prevent it from drying out too quickly. Always worked well for me. Also, for gasoline resistance, use a 2K automotive paint.
I was like Josh Goban huh ... Had a laugh at the end. I'd suggest CRC Brake Kleen, my daughter had a spray paint experiment as a child 5yo in the 80's in the kitchen sink & cabinets. I worked at an auto shop & they suggested to try it, so I took 1/4 of a gallon container home, the stuff is amazing at removing paint! fyi it very potent
It's 100% the Carburetor on the DR350 Took me a long time to learn it too. Also Acetone and Brake cleaner/Carb Cleaners are very very similar chemicals.
From my understanding. Brake fluids have changed over the decades, just as automotive paints have. The Dot 3 were paint strippers on about the 70s car paints. Then they developed Dot 4 and now dot 5 for less likely to strip paint on current automotive paints. I'd suggest that the paint on the tank was more likely to be more recent paint. So brake fluids likely won't touch it these days.
check the intake manifold for 350. it may be a crack or a torn gasket or a crumpled O-ring on the flange. you changed the carburetor but you didn't change the manifold) you noticed correctly, because of the jet, the speed usually does not change. I liked your bike! I'm following the work with him. I'm glad you continued working on it. Good luck dude!)
I learn a lot about carburetors watching your videos. Be careful with those chemicals. As attractive as the smell may be, they're deadly as hell. (camera girl tips) laser pointers work well for indicating key points. 😉
A fluctuating and inconsistent idle is usually a sign of a vacuum leak. I have even had a vacuum leak affect the idle like you said due to the throttle slide gasket missing under the screw cap on a mikuni vm carb.
Yeah that gray is definately latex. I use brake fluid alot now. You have to wipe it on thick with a brush or rag and keep it very wet for for 10-15 minutes then it all crackles up and can be scraped off.
I have a '99 DR 350. When I bought it I had to buy a new TM33 carburetor as the one from the factory had the curtain already wore out, along with the nozzle where it slides, causing an air leak. The bike would fluctuate like yours, and also would bog when jumping or in really rough terrain
For gloves versus noxious chemicals, you have to use the right type to avoid them melting as you're doing stuff, each one being different as to what they're resistant to, and remember that they're not there for a continuous protection, just a temporary barrier to quickly whip off in case of spillages, cos if your gloves are bubbling up and melting, it's the wrong kind... :)
On the DR 350, I would check the shop manual and see if the crank timing mark is suppose to be slightly off in the inspection hole like you said it was. I suspect the mark should line up perfectly at top dead center and not be off at all like you said it was, but I could be wrong.
For the plastic can you use a blowtorch to reflow it like they do on old football stadium chairs? Might not to be a particular type of plastic to work.....
I'd go after the second tank with some black automotive wet sandpaper. 220 ought to be coarse enough. Get a water jug on the I.V. and get a fast drip going to keep the paper clean and cutting. 👍🇨🇦
The right side tank looks to be epoxy, you will not strip that off with any chemical except sand paper or sand blaster. The right side tank looks to be just rattle can spray paint, you can easily take it off with acetone or carb cleaner, those paint are super soft. But for harder paint, like factory paint or powder coating, you will be needing that paint stripper, and it still won't be "wipe off" easy. Watch out acetone can melt/soften plastic if your tank is made of plastic like material.
Here in the UK we had a brilliant paint stripper called Nitromorse.The active ingredient was removed for some environmental shite and now it doesn't do what it says on the tin!! You can however buy Methylene chloride AKA Dichloromethane on line.
i think the camo tank is hydrodipped, so no paint but more like a wrapping. You could try with a heatgun an some cutting scraping tools to remove the warp/film
I have have a Husqvarna Fe350 2016 with 600 hours (yes really 600) with 0 engine rebuilds. Only thing i replaced in the engine was a spark plug and the clutch. It runs like a dream. When i go on rides i open her up full throttle every ride for 5 minutes when the engine is hot but that is it. Every one of my friends are screaming that i should do an engine rebuild. An i am just wondering what do you guys think? Am i a big idiot or that i am very lucky that i have no problems.
I think acetone and carb cleaner can make plastic tanks brittle and crack unfortunately. I had success using orange scented oven cleaner to remove the paint from a plastic tank. I let it sit for a few hours in a plastic bag and the paint bubbled right off. With a metal tank I did recently, the easiest way was just sanding it with a flap disk on an angle grinder. I tried all of the chemicals you did and more and nothing did a very good job and required a TON of scraping.
acetone and brake clean/carb clean is good for removing acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel paints the kleen strip/air craft paint remover is better for urethane based paints and powder coating (recommend the gel in a metal can with the blue & gold label) and it needs to be lathered on, sit for a bit, then it can be wiped away. Latex is less common in rattle cans, it's typically acrylic lacquer or enamel. Latex comes off easier with ammonia, isopropyl alcohol or I believe mineral spirts works decent too.
I've always had the best results by using aircraft grade paint remover ( auto parts store) apply excessively then cover with plastic wrap to keep it wet, let sit , wash off,,with plastic scrubee
I think you were looking for "Caustic". Or "noxious", but that would not describe "attributes" that are "caustic". Caustic eats away some materials, (not glass). "Noxious" is just poisonous and/or unpleasant.
7:00 Prime example being chlorinated vs non chlorinated brake clean. Chlorinated chews through everything, including your internal organs. Non chlorinated is more environmentally friendly and healthier but not as strong.
See there is problem with removing paint with acetone or carb clreaner. Yes it works... But it ruins the plastics, too! Makes it look like it's been for years under the sun and brittle.
I'm not sure what gloves you are using, but I find latex are useless with most chemicals. Nitrile gloves last much much longer in my experience and are way, way less vulnerable to chemicals.
Never ever use gas for anything other than fuel. Yes, it cuts grease and things, but it is explosive. I am sure you were being safe, but it doesn't take much to ignite it. Set a good example.
Y'all seriously need a vent with a fan in there, especially mixing all those chemicals! Love the vids, keep it classy
I am loving these daily videos. It’s been something Ive look ed forward to these last few days for sure.
Hats off to you camera girl for getting er done while sick.
Keep up the videos soldier.
And always remember that nobody who watches these videos is here to learn how to do anything you demonstrate.
They're here because you're a big personality and natural entertainer. They like a subject matter expert who provides honest entertainment while also being a no frills honest man.
Crank out the videos because the people love you and camera girl more than the knowledge you provide.
The high octane joke was an absolute banger! Also love that you both simultaneously had two jokes ready to fire. So good. A genuinely hilarious moment! 😆
I stripped a professionally painted hood one time. Used Aircraft brand stripper. The key was sanding the paint before hand with 80 grit to allow the stripper to permeate into the paint better.
Great idea!
Wrap item to be stripped in white paper towels, then wrap it all in saran-wrap, leave a gap at the top, dribble some acetone on the paper towel at the top, the acetone will get soaked up and distributed all around by the paper towel, and the saran-wrap will keep it from evaporating. The acetone-soaked paper towel will be in direct contact with the paint and whatever paint there is will either lift in sheets or rub right off after a while of soaking.
This is the most efficent way of removing paint with acetone. Only to be used on acetone-resistant substrates, obviously.
Thank you camera girl hope you feel better soon
The yellow aftermarket tank is probably made of HDPE (high density polyethylene). Nothing really sticks to it because the fuel vapours actually permeate the tank. Furthermore, the gray paint seems to be primer... so basically the primer has been "prestripped" by the fuel vapours all it's life. You probably only have to give it a stern look and it will come off. Btw, because of it's permeability, these tanks cannot be painted, the paint will just bubble off. Same goes for normal stickers, they will develop fuel bubbles and peel right off. That is why dirtbike tank decals usually are perforated and use this thick gooey glue.
The other tank looks like fiberglass. This can be painted as it won't let the vapours through... so this may be 2 pack paint, which will fight you all the way. Your best bet is to key sand it and paint over it. But then again, I may be totally wrong and it's just magic.
Thanks for the comment! You are right on almost everything. Except that the XL tank is metal, which, would be similar to fiberglass in that it won't leach vapors. And the paint on the yellow tank took more like 2 stern looks to come off.
Any chance the "paint" on the metal tank is actually hydro dip? That stuff is pretty tough? Or someone experimented on it with ceracote?
@@prdoohan Hi there. It could be hydro dip but that stuff isn't strong at all. It has to be clearcoated with 2 pak clear. That makes it strong. If you don't do that it's as strong as bubblegum tattoos.
@@thomask.8533 Oh cool, thanks for the info, I have always wondered how tough it is
I just picked up a dirtbike, that has a similar paint problem, so this will be interesting. It'll save me some time hopefully.
Thank you for your videos
Use the orange scented oven cleaner. It does not harm plastics like acetone and carb cleaner do. Put a thick coat on it, store it in a plastic bag so it stays moist for 2-3 hours and then wipe it off. Very little scraping required.
Back in the day- I believe it was in the mid 80s I repainted a Jeep CJ5. I went to my local DuPont auto refinish store & purchased a gallon of Pyrox paint remover. This stuff would take the glue off grandmas dentures. Only took about 3- minutes & I was looking at bare metal. Reference for future use. Hope you feel better camera girl.
I suggest you use aircraft striper. Coat the tank and cover with plastic bags to contain the solvent. Let IT work for a while depending on the temperature. Remove the lifting paint with bondo spreader and a plastic brush to get most then blast it with water to get the rest. That's how we strip aircraft.
Hey you two,love your new filming technique and all the meandering conversations...makes me chuckle big love from South Wales
Citristrip gel and wrap in plastic to prevent it from drying out too quickly. Always worked well for me. Also, for gasoline resistance, use a 2K automotive paint.
Thanks for taking the time to make great videos for us.
The main thing I learned from this video: wear a glove when using a ten dollar stripper!
Haha. And don't be surprised if the glove melts away.
I was like Josh Goban huh ... Had a laugh at the end. I'd suggest CRC Brake Kleen, my daughter had a spray paint experiment as a child 5yo in the 80's in the kitchen sink & cabinets. I worked at an auto shop & they suggested to try it, so I took 1/4 of a gallon container home, the stuff is amazing at removing paint! fyi it very potent
Poor jennie, I hope you’re feeling better today .
Very interesting video 👍
Best wishes to camera girl we love you ❤️🇺🇸
Hats off to Camera Girl for feeling up to filming today. Hope she recovers quickly!
Shes mad about Trump.
With all the chemicals in this episode you could say it’s a high octane video with some explosive results 😜 love you two keep em coming 👍
It's 100% the Carburetor on the DR350 Took me a long time to learn it too. Also Acetone and Brake cleaner/Carb Cleaners are very very similar chemicals.
From my understanding. Brake fluids have changed over the decades, just as automotive paints have. The Dot 3 were paint strippers on about the 70s car paints. Then they developed Dot 4 and now dot 5 for less likely to strip paint on current automotive paints. I'd suggest that the paint on the tank was more likely to be more recent paint. So brake fluids likely won't touch it these days.
You guys are killing it
5:45 Complaint filed! Love the singing.
The orage fragrance stripper is pretty good stuff
check the intake manifold for 350. it may be a crack or a torn gasket or a crumpled O-ring on the flange. you changed the carburetor but you didn't change the manifold)
you noticed correctly, because of the jet, the speed usually does not change. I liked your bike! I'm following the work with him. I'm glad you continued working on it. Good luck dude!)
That grey and yellow tank always gave me Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 tank map graphics vibes!!
That is good info,my next bike to bring back to life has been painted with house paint (interior) several times
I learn a lot about carburetors watching your videos. Be careful with those chemicals. As attractive as the smell may be, they're deadly as hell. (camera girl tips) laser pointers work well for indicating key points. 😉
I keep watching for you to hit 350k
I don't ever want my harsh chemicals to be "safe."
A fluctuating and inconsistent idle is usually a sign of a vacuum leak. I have even had a vacuum leak affect the idle like you said due to the throttle slide gasket missing under the screw cap on a mikuni vm carb.
Yeah that gray is definately latex. I use brake fluid alot now. You have to wipe it on thick with a brush or rag and keep it very wet for for 10-15 minutes then it all crackles up and can be scraped off.
I have a '99 DR 350. When I bought it I had to buy a new TM33 carburetor as the one from the factory had the curtain already wore out, along with the nozzle where it slides, causing an air leak. The bike would fluctuate like yours, and also would bog when jumping or in really rough terrain
For gloves versus noxious chemicals, you have to use the right type to avoid them melting as you're doing stuff, each one being different as to what they're resistant to, and remember that they're not there for a continuous protection, just a temporary barrier to quickly whip off in case of spillages, cos if your gloves are bubbling up and melting, it's the wrong kind... :)
On the DR 350, I would check the shop manual and see if the crank timing mark is suppose to be slightly off in the inspection hole like you said it was. I suspect the mark should line up perfectly at top dead center and not be off at all like you said it was, but I could be wrong.
Camera girl is feeling sick.
Jake: "let's do some paint stripping tests with various chemical products"
Thank's for the jokes!
Its TDS
love the pantyhose camo job
For the plastic can you use a blowtorch to reflow it like they do on old football stadium chairs? Might not to be a particular type of plastic to work.....
I'd go after the second tank with some black automotive wet sandpaper. 220 ought to be coarse enough. Get a water jug on the I.V. and get a fast drip going to keep the paper clean and cutting. 👍🇨🇦
Good idea for the iv tank!
The right side tank looks to be epoxy, you will not strip that off with any chemical except sand paper or sand blaster. The right side tank looks to be just rattle can spray paint, you can easily take it off with acetone or carb cleaner, those paint are super soft. But for harder paint, like factory paint or powder coating, you will be needing that paint stripper, and it still won't be "wipe off" easy. Watch out acetone can melt/soften plastic if your tank is made of plastic like material.
Here in the UK we had a brilliant paint stripper called Nitromorse.The active ingredient was removed for some environmental shite and now it doesn't do what it says on the tin!! You can however buy Methylene chloride AKA Dichloromethane on line.
Aerosol paint stripper works great.
By the way, is there room in Jennie's garage for a big bore??? 🤔
Have you tried readjusting the valve lash on the dr yet?
i think the camo tank is hydrodipped, so no paint but more like a wrapping. You could try with a heatgun an some cutting scraping tools to remove the warp/film
Thank you ❤
Are we posting every?!😂 Thank you!!! 🙏 I haven't been keeping up with the channel lately
Try Citristrip, smells like oranges, and doesn't give wives an instant migraine. Best of both worlds.
Is AIRCRAFT STRIPPER neutered as well these days? Thanks EPA! If not probably costs a fortune tho.
I have have a Husqvarna Fe350 2016 with 600 hours (yes really 600) with 0 engine rebuilds. Only thing i replaced in the engine was a spark plug and the clutch. It runs like a dream. When i go on rides i open her up full throttle every ride for 5 minutes when the engine is hot but that is it. Every one of my friends are screaming that i should do an engine rebuild. An i am just wondering what do you guys think? Am i a big idiot or that i am very lucky that i have no problems.
I think acetone and carb cleaner can make plastic tanks brittle and crack unfortunately. I had success using orange scented oven cleaner to remove the paint from a plastic tank. I let it sit for a few hours in a plastic bag and the paint bubbled right off. With a metal tank I did recently, the easiest way was just sanding it with a flap disk on an angle grinder. I tried all of the chemicals you did and more and nothing did a very good job and required a TON of scraping.
For that DR tank I would have started with a power wash, probably would have removed a lot of that nasty paint to get you started.
You got to remember on tank is hard plastic and the other is probably a mild steel tank. So the products would react differently to each tank
I've always had good luck with citrustrip, just gotta leave it covered in damp newspapers overnight and scrape it off the next day.
Missed a chance to title the vid " Bikes and strippers"
I got nervous you forgot to upload tonight. I didn’t have anything to watch in the shop.
acetone and brake clean/carb clean is good for removing acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel paints the kleen strip/air craft paint remover is better for urethane based paints and powder coating (recommend the gel in a metal can with the blue & gold label) and it needs to be lathered on, sit for a bit, then it can be wiped away.
Latex is less common in rattle cans, it's typically acrylic lacquer or enamel. Latex comes off easier with ammonia, isopropyl alcohol or I believe mineral spirts works decent too.
Thanks for the information!
@ no problem! Hopefully I remembered all of that correctly, believe my hard drive may be nearly full lol!
Try goof-off graffiti remover. I used that on spray painted dirty bike rims and it worked great.
You should have tried lacquer thinner. I bet that would go through that paint like Grant through Richmond.
Check for air flowing hose or any leaks through the intake or manifold
Paint stripper should be spread on in one coat/direction not brushed all over and swirled around. I don't know why but it works.
Come for the knowledge, stay for the jokes
I think that brake fluid has changed it's ingredients, if you can find a bottle from the early 60es you'll pretty sure it will strip off the paint.
I've always had the best results by using aircraft grade paint remover ( auto parts store) apply excessively then cover with plastic wrap to keep it wet, let sit , wash off,,with plastic scrubee
You just can’t beat aircraft stripper for paint, it’s awesome! But you will pay for it.
I got the high octane joke
Give dollar store oven cleaner a try, we use it to take off pinstripe off original finishes
Did you pay the stripper in singles 😅
I uses paint stripper and minutes it started bubbling. It burned my skin instantly too. It was harsh crap.
Lacquer thinner is gnarly stuff, it'll melt plastic even, I use it to clean paint guns.
videos are sooo goood
I think you were looking for "Caustic". Or "noxious", but that would not describe "attributes" that are "caustic". Caustic eats away some materials, (not glass). "Noxious" is just poisonous and/or unpleasant.
I wonder if Nair would work
I think there is bad cold going around. I felt terrible last week.
I'm still mourning the loss of the CT90/125....
Citrustrip is pretty effective for rattle can jobs.
Thanks for the comment. I saw the citrustrip in the store and was considering it. Maybe I should have got it.
1.5mins in and im yelling do not use acetone on plastics
Exactly
Try a power washer to remove the paint on the plastic tank
I was thinking that the joke went over her head.
Carb cleaner is acetone from what I've heard.
I do that to my socks when they get a hole. I try to buy the same type for work socks so I don't have to match them.
I am sure the tank would buff out all those scratches.
Worn out carb slide mine did the same thing
7:00 Prime example being chlorinated vs non chlorinated brake clean. Chlorinated chews through everything, including your internal organs. Non chlorinated is more environmentally friendly and healthier but not as strong.
See there is problem with removing paint with acetone or carb clreaner. Yes it works... But it ruins the plastics, too! Makes it look like it's been for years under the sun and brittle.
Y'all need that other stuff that makes the paint bubbles
I'm not sure what gloves you are using, but I find latex are useless with most chemicals.
Nitrile gloves last much much longer in my experience and are way, way less vulnerable to chemicals.
DCM takes even powdercoat off, use it only with metal tho
Dichloromethane
Citristrip works well for me
ive already said its either float level or valve lash my bet is float level
Never ever use gas for anything other than fuel. Yes, it cuts grease and things, but it is explosive. I am sure you were being safe, but it doesn't take much to ignite it. Set a good example.
Maybe it has a small clog in the exhaust
A good stripper doesn’t need much rubbing to get the job done.
Good video Camera Girl. Get better.
what the heck is up with the audio, I feel like I'm watching Kung Pow again haha
Funny Dad Joke.
I think you need automotive grade paint stripper, and let it sit for 1hr and just hose off the paint.
I hope camera girl gets to feeling better and not worse. Get that tea and rest.
seems gas with a naked flame will remove most paints, eyebrows, garage and probably the house too.....
I think You’re supposed to brush on the paint stripper