I've been using RIT Dyemore for years. Don't use the regular RIT dye! It has to say "Dyemore" on the bottle! It's for synthetics. Tip: Clean the figure with a water based cleaner, then a solvent based thinner first to remove any factory mold release, wax, or oils from the plastic first! Lastly, your dye bath has to be very hot, but not boiling. I usually start dipping the figure as soon as steam starts rising from the pot. Stir the parts continuously so it dyes the plastic evenly. It'll last forever. Your welcome
Kitbash Customs hey, I used your channel as my guide for Dying. Did you try using the Rit Fixative they sell that prevents the dye bleeding? I just did some and used that and I’m hoping it avoids what happened to yours. Thanks for the video upload
Not sure but probably the type of plastic? I'm thinking the different plastics in 1 figure have different pigment adhesion or reaction to the same dye. You might need to sample dye strengths and time ' marinating ' for the different plastics to get the same results.
I dye alot of transformers when I do repaints... I use RIT dye, proline version and iDye Poly... When I do it I mix with a bit of acetone, and boil it... Just have to be careful not to warp the pieces... Havent had a chance to try it on action figures yet, dont see a problem as long as you are careful...
@@Cloudindustries You would actually mix them together... Basically you would make the dye like normal, and mix a bit of acetone in... To avoid warping ot damaging the parts, I leave the parts in the mix for 10 minutes at a time... So bring the mixture almost to boiling, I then remove from the stove and place piece in dye for 10 minutes... I then remove piece to check color, and if it is not correct color I repeat... Heat the dye back up and place part in for 10 minutes... This takes awhile, but it helps to avoid damaging the pieces... Just remember if you try and dye something black, it will not always turn a true black... All you can do is get as dark as you can and then use paint to get it fully black... Also, alot of people dont use acetone, some use dish soap... You would just have to find what works best for you...
Problem with dying the figures is that it's only temporary, the paint penetrates only the outside layers and then pushes out after many days into the air. Deeming it sorta useless. Also the lizard baf is bomb! Surprised no one every talks about it, look at those fine details and sculpt!
You need to use dye for plastics, polymer fabric sounds like it should work, but its formulated for thin plastic. You specifically want ABS and PVC dye, possibly automotive or maybe even marine.
@@KitbashCustoms Best I could find on Amazon, I'd prefer a single kind of material comparability, also not sure how well this particular product works. What I am familiar with was purchased at an automotive paint specialist. Sadly, I can't find it on Amazon. This will definitely work of the soft plastics, like some hair, skirts, and capes as those are made from pvc. www.amazon.com/123REPAIR-Plastic-dyers-Paint-Color/dp/B01IN1P6HO/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=pvc+dye&qid=1573368306&sr=8-48
How to color your action figure without paint to avoid paint rub This custom tutorial was contributed by monoloco"el cuztoymizer"  This tutorial shows you how to color dye your action figure mainly when its an all black color character,or you just want some part of your figure painted black. Like all tutorials in this site you should be careful when handling sharp objects,tools or hot water which is what you would need. This is the second time I used this trick on a action figure,the first time I did DARKHAWK custom and it came out ok. The first time I used color dye was to color the faded seat belts on my car and it worked fine. Materials needed,news paper because it gets kind of messy,some black color dye(liquid dye),empty glass jar to save what's left of your dye because you can use it again,an old pot,some wire to tie your figure or parts so you can dip it in the boiling dye.I did this trick because when your customizing an all black color character its very hard to prevent paint rub especially in the joints. Prepare your dye in a small pot, mine is like a 16oz pot, the dye needs to to be kind of concentrated if you make it too diluted its going to take a long time to paint your figure I did about half of the bottle and about 12 oz of water and I added 1/2tsp of salt ,bring to a boil then dip your figure for a minute,(very important to remove all paint original or the one added by you and never leave the figure in the boiling dye for long periods of time you don't want your figure warping I say no more than one minute at a time). the soft plastic on your figure absorbs the color dye faster than the hard plastic so keep dipping your figure till it gets to the color tone you like, take your figure out once in a while,cool it with tap water then bend all the joints so the color dye gets in there good,dip again and repeat until all the joints are colored black. When your satisfied with the color tone on your figure wash it really good with dish washing soap and an old tooth brush and there you have it. I guess this technique can work with other color of dye as long as you go from a light color plastic to a darker color dye. I haven't tried it with other color but if someone does it let me know how it work for you,hope this helps thanks and God bless. Credit for This goes to the Customized on Figurerealm
I guess the dying technique isn't perfect, but it's good for adding base colors. What if you used some Mod Podge on certain parts after they were dyed?
Did you ever solve the problem of the dye leeching out? Seems to only be certain plastics. Maybe sealing it with a clear coat lacquer might prevent it?
Hey bro im making a travis scott action figure did u ever figure out how to do this without the die bleeding ? I have to die the body i have a liter skin tone because its really dark
@@KitbashCustoms damn really!? Thats bad news. I don't want to try and paint the body because last time I tried everytime i moved the limbs they would scrap and the paint would come off before i could even put the clear coat on
Penso che è meglio fare solo qualche piccola correzione se proprio uno vuole,ma mai tutta la figura..non si sa mai...anche a me è successo, e da volerla migliorare l'ho dovuta poi buttare...dovrebbero già uscire fantastiche dalla scatola, e durare nel tempo,ma non è così, a volte addirittura figure pagate un sacco di soldi ed hanno anche graffi ,sbavature,dimenticanze e verniciatura fatta male...ho sempre odiato anche il più piccolo difetto...ad ogni modo penso e meglio tenersi la figura così come arriva
You're not the first to try this and run into this problem. People on FigureRealm have pointed out this problem multiple times. Many plastics won't take the dye, and sometimes different parts turn different colors. Personally I've given up on the technique, it just fails more than it works.
I've been using RIT Dyemore for years. Don't use the regular RIT dye! It has to say "Dyemore" on the bottle! It's for synthetics.
Tip: Clean the figure with a water based cleaner, then a solvent based thinner first to remove any factory mold release, wax, or oils from the plastic first!
Lastly, your dye bath has to be very hot, but not boiling. I usually start dipping the figure as soon as steam starts rising from the pot.
Stir the parts continuously so it dyes the plastic evenly.
It'll last forever. Your welcome
Can you dye a figure like a light blue color
@@legojawa3776 it should work if it has a white base.
Don't give up dying, it's such a time saver. Maybe just need to experiment on the process a bit more. Thanks for sharing
whasafauh oh trust me I will never give up! It’s just as all things a process to be studied and learned from!
Kitbash Customs hey, I used your channel as my guide for Dying. Did you try using the Rit Fixative they sell that prevents the dye bleeding? I just did some and used that and I’m hoping it avoids what happened to yours. Thanks for the video upload
Not sure but probably the type of plastic? I'm thinking the different plastics in 1 figure have different pigment adhesion or reaction to the same dye. You might need to sample dye strengths and time ' marinating ' for the different plastics to get the same results.
I dye alot of transformers when I do repaints... I use RIT dye, proline version and iDye Poly... When I do it I mix with a bit of acetone, and boil it... Just have to be careful not to warp the pieces... Havent had a chance to try it on action figures yet, dont see a problem as long as you are careful...
Do you have a step by step on how to do it sir? Can you share it ?
@@ravenfrancis8803 dont have a step by step guide... I am more then willing to answer any of your questions...
Would you say it’s better to do acetone first and then dye it?
@@Cloudindustries You would actually mix them together... Basically you would make the dye like normal, and mix a bit of acetone in... To avoid warping ot damaging the parts, I leave the parts in the mix for 10 minutes at a time... So bring the mixture almost to boiling, I then remove from the stove and place piece in dye for 10 minutes... I then remove piece to check color, and if it is not correct color I repeat... Heat the dye back up and place part in for 10 minutes... This takes awhile, but it helps to avoid damaging the pieces... Just remember if you try and dye something black, it will not always turn a true black... All you can do is get as dark as you can and then use paint to get it fully black... Also, alot of people dont use acetone, some use dish soap... You would just have to find what works best for you...
Problem with dying the figures is that it's only temporary, the paint penetrates only the outside layers and then pushes out after many days into the air. Deeming it sorta useless. Also the lizard baf is bomb! Surprised no one every talks about it, look at those fine details and sculpt!
That’s exactly what I go over in the video. To my dismay time taught me a lesson.
Thanks for the vid. At first I thought the video was about dead figures. Dyeing is the proper term.
My most successful dye has been done with acetone as well as a boil process. The acetone seems to open the plastic up more.
How much acetone?
gotta be careful.... acetone vapors are flammable. :O
All the videos I've seen about figure dying said you gotta use specifically RIT synthetic dye more
I did, lol it will bleed through no matter what you do
You need to use dye for plastics, polymer fabric sounds like it should work, but its formulated for thin plastic. You specifically want ABS and PVC dye, possibly automotive or maybe even marine.
Scoo Brea indidnt even know they made dye for that kinda stuff lol
@@KitbashCustoms Best I could find on Amazon, I'd prefer a single kind of material comparability, also not sure how well this particular product works. What I am familiar with was purchased at an automotive paint specialist. Sadly, I can't find it on Amazon. This will definitely work of the soft plastics, like some hair, skirts, and capes as those are made from pvc. www.amazon.com/123REPAIR-Plastic-dyers-Paint-Color/dp/B01IN1P6HO/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=pvc+dye&qid=1573368306&sr=8-48
How to color your action figure without paint to avoid paint rub
This custom tutorial was contributed by monoloco"el cuztoymizer"

This tutorial shows you how to color dye your action figure mainly when its an all black color character,or you just want some part of your figure painted black. Like all tutorials in this site you should be careful when handling sharp objects,tools or hot water which is what you would need. This is the second time I used this trick on a action figure,the first time I did DARKHAWK custom and it came out ok. The first time I used color dye was to color the faded seat belts on my car and it worked fine.
Materials needed,news paper because it gets kind of messy,some black color dye(liquid dye),empty glass jar to save what's left of your dye because you can use it again,an old pot,some wire to tie your figure or parts so you can dip it in the boiling dye.I did this trick because when your customizing an all black color character its very hard to prevent paint rub especially in the joints.
Prepare your dye in a small pot, mine is like a 16oz pot, the dye needs to to be kind of concentrated if you make it too diluted its going to take a long time to paint your figure I did about half of the bottle and about 12 oz of water and I added 1/2tsp of salt ,bring to a boil then dip your figure for a minute,(very important to remove all paint original or the one added by you and never leave the figure in the boiling dye for long periods of time you don't want your figure warping I say no more than one minute at a time). the soft plastic on your figure absorbs the color dye faster than the hard plastic so keep dipping your figure till it gets to the color tone you like, take your figure out once in a while,cool it with tap water then bend all the joints so the color dye gets in there good,dip again and repeat until all the joints are colored black. When your satisfied with the color tone on your figure wash it really good with dish washing soap and an old tooth brush and there you have it. I guess this technique can work with other color of dye as long as you go from a light color plastic to a darker color dye. I haven't tried it with other color but if someone does it let me know how it work for you,hope this helps thanks and God bless.
Credit for This goes to the Customized on Figurerealm
@kitbash black is a weak dye you want to dye it 1st a deep purple or navy. Then use black dye. It's rules are the same as fabric
Black Manta looks great 👍. Keep Grinding Cuz . 💪😎👍
Round Head Collector thanks you bro and always!
I guess the dying technique isn't perfect, but it's good for adding base colors. What if you used some Mod Podge on certain parts after they were dyed?
I would really like to have that lizard I wasn’t fortunate to get the baf and that one looks awesome amazing job
Did you ever solve the problem of the dye leeching out? Seems to only be certain plastics. Maybe sealing it with a clear coat lacquer might prevent it?
@@decadentdave its the plastic, it doesn't hold over time, sealing it before hand doesn't make sense cause you want the dye to penetrate the plastic
@@KitbashCustoms no I mean sealing it after dyeing to keep the dye from leeching out
@@decadentdave either way it won't step bleeding unfortunately
Hey bro im making a travis scott action figure did u ever figure out how to do this without the die bleeding ? I have to die the body i have a liter skin tone because its really dark
AstroKid there’s no way to stop the bleeding with this method, I’ve done all the research I could and it all leads to the same conclusion
@@KitbashCustoms damn really!? Thats bad news. I don't want to try and paint the body because last time I tried everytime i moved the limbs they would scrap and the paint would come off before i could even put the clear coat on
AstroKid you have to prep the figure in that case, sanding joints
Thanks for the info dude… 🙏
I’m here to help
Penso che è meglio fare solo qualche piccola correzione se proprio uno vuole,ma mai tutta la figura..non si sa mai...anche a me è successo, e da volerla migliorare l'ho dovuta poi buttare...dovrebbero già uscire fantastiche dalla scatola, e durare nel tempo,ma non è così, a volte addirittura figure pagate un sacco di soldi ed hanno anche graffi ,sbavature,dimenticanze e verniciatura fatta male...ho sempre odiato anche il più piccolo difetto...ad ogni modo penso e meglio tenersi la figura così come arriva
Doesn’t rit make an extra product that makes the color stick more?
Pinsqueezebic 1 don’t even know I have to look into it
Mr. Joshua I do
Mr. Joshua half the bottle
It might be the brand of dye you use because I don’t have any fading problems with my rit dye
There’s more dyes than synthetic rit dye? Hm news to me
Leather dye worked well for me
justin brown I’ll have to try that too, I’ll be trying a bunch of different methods
Supposedly, RIT dye fixative reduces the fading and bleeding.
Gonna have to look into that
@@KitbashCustoms Nice. I'm going to be trying once I can find an old pot. Thanks for the vid!
You have a nother patreon buddy! Keep up the good work !
Jay Saunders appreciate that dude! And welcome 🙏🏼
I ain’t gon lie, the lizard dye looks like it had a wash on it which is fire 🔥
The lizard one bothered me the least fr, I did like it
Did you solve the problem 🤔?
Roccothegreat (all caps) goes with rit synthetic, low boil, less water more dye, about an hour or so and nowhere near the instructions.
That’s what I used, and it still bleeds, there’s no replacement for prepping and painting a figure, dye helps but it not a replacement for painting
Is that a Killer CROC or is it Supposed to be The Lizard from SPIDER-MAN?
L0rdEsedess lizard, there’s versions of him with out the jacket lol
@@KitbashCustoms that looks SICK AF!!! What parts did use for him or do you have a Video on that?
L0rdEsedess I do check the page! It’s an earlier vid
What are you getting so hung up on dye for? What you do is dj using a permanent ink marker to fill in the details baby.
ricky todd Botelho because I like it
You're not the first to try this and run into this problem. People on FigureRealm have pointed out this problem multiple times.
Many plastics won't take the dye, and sometimes different parts turn different colors.
Personally I've given up on the technique, it just fails more than it works.
Jeggson Vohees that’s good to know and I’m not on figure realm but I know I’m not the 1st to do it lol but it’s good to know it’s not just me
@@mr.joshua204 What figures specifically has it worked on?
You just aren't even doing it right dude. You aren't using the right dye or process.
Enlighten me