I already left a comment just now thanking you but man this is such a major help to me because I'm still new to the whole customizing action figures repainting and refurbishing and I'm getting into kit bashing and I don't want to waste or feel like I've lost money by painting my fingers and watching the paint being scratched off and having to go back and repaint it this is such a major major help to me. I promise you man to The godfather of action figure making I promise you when I get started dying my figures hopefully later this week or by next month I am going to be recommending you out the wazoo and I'm going to try to attend as many of your live streams as possible. Your channel is going to be one I'm going to make a point to keep an eye on. I can't do much for a super chat or patreon but brother I'm going to be loyal to you. I cannot stop thanking you because this is going to be a major help. And my mom and I are planning on going into business for modeling and creating things and building what kind of stuff and if I can use a synthetic dial and some other stuff and if we'd be working with some plastic things dude I'll be sure to recommend your channel to so many people that I promise you!!
I just got my hands on some synthetic die last night I'm checking it again make sure I got the right time of course I was the only kind I could find but I'm going to give it a try hopefully later on tonight. And I'll be sure to watch this video again
Synthetic means for synthetic materials/fabrics. This is a nice tip to share with others. Its something I thought I was all original and smooth coming up with for a couple of years but have seen its obviously not the case and people have been doing this for quite a while, I guess it's just something people kind of kept to themselves. I break down the figures as much as possible when doing it to base bucks. I usually give all the pieces a very quick light blasting of dull coat on all the parts before reassembling because it lightly seals everything and acts as sort of a base coat/light primer which makes paint bond better and I like to get rid of plastic shine as early in the process as I can anyway no matter what technique I use. I've also used this stuff for custom mezco figures using kos of superman,Steve rogers,and the blue and yellow dead pool(the other fakes have weird bodies that are way to far from the real thing and less recyclable outfits). That's requires a little more skill with this product so I don't recommend it until someone has gotten the hang of this stuff for the purposes in this video first.
I'd like to see how things work out with lighter colors. I'd guess the factory paint would affect the results more. I'd love being able to use this method for nightmare colors like yellow.
Just did this on a DnD articulated figure, it's hand variations, its soft plastic cape with white fur. Aslo those big articulated Grey Warhammer figures with weapons you often see for cheap. A whole bottle of Rye fit them all dyed. Maybe it was the plastic or the number of times I dipped them for about ten min each. They came out differently. One came out pure black, another very dark dark brown. And the others almost a dark copperish color with black in some areas. Didn't come out super black like I was hoping. The smaller items like the Warhammer weapons and hands variations came out perfectly black. Although the bodies mostly weren't pure black like I wanted. it takes a huge step out of painting everything black. This was my first time dyeing figures so I thought might as well search what else I could dye. Also beware of a scent or fume. Don't stand next to it constantly and maybe have ventilation. Thanks! Was super helpful
Cane across this at random, but nonetheless really useful. I was just about to start a Nightwing, but I was dreading working on the butterfly joints on the mold I was using. This will be super helpful.
Just tried this with my Citizen V Marvel Legend figure, to make a Vigilante Daredevil. Had it on the lowest heat, full bottle of dye and the same amount of water. Started to fume after like 5-10 minutes so turned it off and let the figure sit in it. Would recommend wearing plastic gloves if you do this and want to take the figure out to bend the limbs every so often, as my finger tips are now slightly dyed. Citizen V figure still sitting in the dye, after having turned the flame off.
I learnt something new, and this isn't even what I was looking for. I just stumbled across it, and turns out I'm subscribed to you anyway! 🤣 Thankyou buddy
Great idea man !!! but I need some details !!! . Approx. how much time we shd keep it with low flame ON coz eventually figures will start to get rubbery if we keep the flame on for longer period....so like 20 mints, 40 mints. ??? just approx number. . and do we need curing time of one day as u said or 3-4 hours would do the trick ??? . also, do you think it will harm or react with plastic in a bad way in the long run, as in bubbling or flaking ??? . hows the durability ??? any paint chips on joint areas faced as we normally do with spray paints ???
I'm not trying to come on here to snipe all of this guys subscribers but I have a video on my channel where I go a little more in depth with this process
I enjoyed the video and gave it a try. I found that after the ink dries it leaves a hue similar to pen ink or marker ink. Black Pen ink or marker has a purple hue. Black paint does not. Until I can figure out how to avoid this I’ll use both the dye and paint methods. The dye for the joints so they won’t chip and then paint the rest. I did two figures this way and I’m satisfied.
@@handheldhavoc6635 i used rattle can paint made for plastic and then two different non yellowing clear coats. One gloss and then finished with a matte. It worked for what I was trying to achieve. I was adding a different color forearm to a black upper arm. So naturally I painted the forearm black. As for dye leaking after painting over it. I noticed on one figures hand some leakage. On the others none. This could have been due to poor paint coverage. Not sure. I’m still trying to figure out a good method.
@@handheldhavoc6635 primer is primer. I’m not an expert but I do know primer is used for paint to be able to adhere better. The type of rattle can paint I used didn’t need a coat of primer. Personally, I would use primer next time to ensure better adhesion. Not that I’ve seen rubbing. But to make absolutely sure I’ve tried the best methods to avoid paint rub. To answer your question, if you can achieve a brushless appearance with a brush on primer then go for it. I don’t think I can so that’s why I use both rattle can paint (applying in thin coats) and/or an airbrush depending on what I’m painting. More detail work I use an airbrush for coating. Something like the arms I’ll use a rattle can or brush with diluted paint. I would also let the paint cure fully before attaching limbs. Don’t rush it.
This looks like an ideal solution for customizing and I appreciate you experimenting on this. I have a bunch of questions: Will this work on soft pliable vinyl heads like GI Joe or MEGO heads? Will it work on very dense or less dense hard plastic? Will it work polyester action figure fabric? I'm guessing that's probably the intended use as regular RIT fabric dye does not work on polyester. How does the dye maintain over time? Do the figures get sticky of tacky? Will they collect more dust? Does the dye rub off the figure or stain fingers or clothes ? Any temperature warnings as far as storing or display? Thank you. Rich
@@ROCCOTHEGREAT I just wanted to know if you have already experimented with those types of plastics I mentioned. If you haven't then I'll try on soft vinyl, then let you know. If anything like stickiness or dust or staining occurs on your figures ever happens in the future please let me know in a reply. Thank you, Rich
This is so cool bro. I was looking ways to paint but... Painting leaves brush strokes Air brush gives un even coats Spray painting makes them sticky. This seems the best way to go.
OoooooooomFg dude! THANK YOU so very much for posting this DOPE video & very personal to me as'well, as I LOVE doing custom work on my 3'75"s G.I.JOE & STARWARS Vintage & Modern's. I have done some REALLY AWESOME work & stuff I too have posted on MY Bookface page LOVE for ALL 3'75"s & other group's etc. However with my failing :( physical health, & hand's shake! :( UGHHH. I have had to have my wife Help me with painting! While I'm still?! Able to sculpt, fix, restore etc. Yet THIS VIDEO I was MENT to see, learn & hope for the BEST!! CHEER'S again very much. Lol my wife TOMORROW is going out to get a black, red, Dark green, blue! 👏👏👏👏👏👏 You did a great job yourself too ....
I tried this on a McFarlane Grifter jacket and arms/hands. The arms/hands turned out great, the dye does rub off on your hands a bit, I need to pat them down and seal those. But for the jacket, since its rubber and not hard plastic, it left a purple-ish hue like a black marker would and it starting to come off a bit, starting to see the green come through. I'm going to touch it up with paint and seal it as well. Hopefully that'll do the trick. This video is super helpful though!
Hey, alpha proto, I'm just clearing something up for you, it does not work as well with other colors, if you have an all white figure it will work OK but not perfectly, the darker the figure and the lighter the color you want to dye it, the less it'll work, I have a tutorial on my channel too where I explain more of the pros and cons, and there is no need to dye your casts Rocco the great if you just cast them in black haha
Anyone know if it’s okay to dye, prime then paint in that order? I was using the damtoys drawman for a few customs and there were a few with darker skin. I don’t wanna paint the joints but I don’t mind them being slightly off color it’s just I’d rather the skin tone not be a crazy difference
if i do this can i use a pot that i also use to cook. like if i use it will the pot get stained? and will i be able to use it again after using the dye in it?
Just found out there are Black and Jet Black(which Somes in a kit) Rit colors. I think graphite dye has a higher chance of making your figures have a dark shimmer copper. And black dye a sort of shimmer dark purple. If the dye doesn't take in the plastic exactly how you want, depending on the plastic and other factors. Which it looks cool if that's what you want. But I was hoping for black black especially on my custom DnD articulated figure project. I'll retry with ajet black rit dye kit
So I painted a figure fully black but the joints always chip when I move them. If I were to do this to the figure would it still dye the plastic without effecting the paint
I usually just prime them with rustoleum once or twice.. Still deal with joint issues though with paint chipping. Does this eliminate paint chipping? I'm definitely a little nervous cooking em up
Oh my God bro you have helped me out more than you realize. I've been want to do some very special custom figures like take the NECA 200 3 Battlestar Godzilla and turn it into a dark evil Godzilla. I was taking a route of spray painting my figures and I thought about doing that but I was still worried about some paint chipping because there are some joints that are very tight and there are some parts that are just grinding against each other. But this is the solution to Future problems. I tried repainting a NECA Predator figure some time ago but whenever I moved the joints around the paint kept scrapping off. Thank you brother you are in my heart now. I'm going to try to go to Walmart this Thursday even though there's a hurricane coming and see if I can pick up some synthetic Dy. If I can get it and do it brother I'm giving you a shout out and definitely recommend people to check out this video and your channel. like I said I subscribed to you a while ago but I've never been on check out your channel and now I can't tell you how happy I am that I'm subscribed to you!!! Thank you so much this is really going to be a major help for so many many future projects I have plans and save me a lot on some paint.
Mine didn't stain brey dark. However it was pretty noticeable under my fingernails and crevices on the side of my fingernails. Made them look dirty when they actually weren't. But a quick shower, warm water and soap got rid of that. Beware of staining clothes. Ruined a nice shirt of mine.
Question. I have a Phicen seamless figure made of Thermoplastic Elastomer. I tried dye but it took forever, which I see by your video, your method was easier.
Deleted my old comment because I just finished dyeing moon knight. Got him completely black after about an hour of stirring. Started the water on 4 and brought it almost to boiling (occasional small bubbles in the water) then took it down to 2 and poured in 1/2 to 3/4 of the dye. Almost completely disassembled him which I'm sure helped. Any tips for the immediate after care? I have all the pieces drying unassembled right now, just wanna make sure whether or not I should wash the figure to get rid of that dye smell, or if I should just let it dry and pop it all back together
If it doesn't come off with acetone or nail polish remover, its probably molded in the plastic. Not much you can do. Dyeing is probably the easiest way.
I’m planning to dye my ML civil warrior black then paint white over. Would like to know your tips on making sure the black dye won’t leak through the white? Thanks!
Can you help my please? I have an idea 💡You know marvel legends figures right? There are most of them with suit on. My plan is to make a figure with an white shirt. But do you think a white marker can cover the black hands suit? So that it's look all white? I want a figure without jacket but only shirt. I don't know if you underhand my idea 🤔
Double checked, but Vinegar can help dye plastics, dunno how good/bad that may be for figures though. From a quick search "When cotton yarn or fabrics are dyed, salt is added to the dye bath as a mordant to help the fibers absorb the dye. For wool or nylon, the acid in vinegar acts as a mordant in the dye bath to help the fibers absorb dye."
LETS GET THIS VIDEO TO 300 LIKES! !! !
and leave a comment for the algorithm! ( even if you have nothing to say LOL
I already left a comment just now thanking you but man this is such a major help to me because I'm still new to the whole customizing action figures repainting and refurbishing and I'm getting into kit bashing and I don't want to waste or feel like I've lost money by painting my fingers and watching the paint being scratched off and having to go back and repaint it this is such a major major help to me. I promise you man to The godfather of action figure making I promise you when I get started dying my figures hopefully later this week or by next month I am going to be recommending you out the wazoo and I'm going to try to attend as many of your live streams as possible. Your channel is going to be one I'm going to make a point to keep an eye on. I can't do much for a super chat or patreon but brother I'm going to be loyal to you. I cannot stop thanking you because this is going to be a major help. And my mom and I are planning on going into business for modeling and creating things and building what kind of stuff and if I can use a synthetic dial and some other stuff and if we'd be working with some plastic things dude I'll be sure to recommend your channel to so many people that I promise you!!
I just got my hands on some synthetic die last night I'm checking it again make sure I got the right time of course I was the only kind I could find but I'm going to give it a try hopefully later on tonight. And I'll be sure to watch this video again
Lol you liked ur own vid haha 😂
acetone will remove any paint apps before using dye
Can I do this with plastic that don't have paint on them?
I'm so doing this with an extra GI Joe Classified Scarlett. This looks so much easier to do than paint and with no chipping!
I’m looking to do the same with my Scarlett.
Just like mama used to make
perfect
Synthetic means for synthetic materials/fabrics. This is a nice tip to share with others. Its something I thought I was all original and smooth coming up with for a couple of years but have seen its obviously not the case and people have been doing this for quite a while, I guess it's just something people kind of kept to themselves. I break down the figures as much as possible when doing it to base bucks. I usually give all the pieces a very quick light blasting of dull coat on all the parts before reassembling because it lightly seals everything and acts as sort of a base coat/light primer which makes paint bond better and I like to get rid of plastic shine as early in the process as I can anyway no matter what technique I use. I've also used this stuff for custom mezco figures using kos of superman,Steve rogers,and the blue and yellow dead pool(the other fakes have weird bodies that are way to far from the real thing and less recyclable outfits). That's requires a little more skill with this product so I don't recommend it until someone has gotten the hang of this stuff for the purposes in this video first.
nice!
I had thought about doing this for the joints so I don't have to sand them. Thanks for confirming it.
I'd like to see how things work out with lighter colors. I'd guess the factory paint would affect the results more. I'd love being able to use this method for nightmare colors like yellow.
It takes 3 baths for yellow and red on Shang chi iron mans to turn black
To take paint off the figures before using a dye bath, use a little acetone and it will wipe pretty much all the paint off prior.
nice! good idea
@@ROCCOTHEGREAT about 20 years of figure customizing in my belt. 😎 Great to use on clear figures to just have the clear plastic look.
Came across this randomly, very inspired, those Rick figures are so cheap here and I love the idea of them as swat figures
Just did this on a DnD articulated figure, it's hand variations, its soft plastic cape with white fur. Aslo those big articulated Grey Warhammer figures with weapons you often see for cheap. A whole bottle of Rye fit them all dyed. Maybe it was the plastic or the number of times I dipped them for about ten min each. They came out differently. One came out pure black, another very dark dark brown. And the others almost a dark copperish color with black in some areas. Didn't come out super black like I was hoping. The smaller items like the Warhammer weapons and hands variations came out perfectly black. Although the bodies mostly weren't pure black like I wanted. it takes a huge step out of painting everything black. This was my first time dyeing figures so I thought might as well search what else I could dye. Also beware of a scent or fume. Don't stand next to it constantly and maybe have ventilation. Thanks! Was super helpful
Cane across this at random, but nonetheless really useful. I was just about to start a Nightwing, but I was dreading working on the butterfly joints on the mold I was using. This will be super helpful.
Glad I could help!
Does anyone know if you can just use a normal plastic bucket or something for this ? and does it have to be heated water? Please let me know guys
Remember you can always go darker, but you can't go lighter.
bingo!
Thanks man, was literally 2 seconds from buying the wrong kinda dye. Clutch video 🤙
glad you saw this, I made that mistake you dont want waste your figs and time ! haha good luck
thanks for the tutorial, how did the die hold up. does it still look the same today or does the dye fade at all?
This is great thanks man. I made all the mistakes you spoke of my last time. After that I decided dye won’t work. Thank you for the tutorial.
Just tried this with my Citizen V Marvel Legend figure, to make a Vigilante Daredevil. Had it on the lowest heat, full bottle of dye and the same amount of water. Started to fume after like 5-10 minutes so turned it off and let the figure sit in it.
Would recommend wearing plastic gloves if you do this and want to take the figure out to bend the limbs every so often, as my finger tips are now slightly dyed.
Citizen V figure still sitting in the dye, after having turned the flame off.
Dude thank you so much. I’m in these action figure groups on Facebook and I always see ppl taking about doing a wash. This is what they mean.
No, a wash is using watered-down, or thinned paint to get into the nooks and crannies of a model or figure, then wiping off the excess.
I learnt something new, and this isn't even what I was looking for. I just stumbled across it, and turns out I'm subscribed to you anyway! 🤣 Thankyou buddy
Damn I had no idea you could DYE a figure
This will be so helpful especially since most of my characters attires are black
Great idea man !!! but I need some details !!!
.
Approx. how much time we shd keep it with low flame ON coz eventually figures will start to get rubbery if we keep the flame on for longer period....so like 20 mints, 40 mints. ??? just approx number.
.
and do we need curing time of one day as u said or 3-4 hours would do the trick ???
.
also, do you think it will harm or react with plastic in a bad way in the long run, as in bubbling or flaking ???
.
hows the durability ??? any paint chips on joint areas faced as we normally do with spray paints ???
I'm not trying to come on here to snipe all of this guys subscribers but I have a video on my channel where I go a little more in depth with this process
I enjoyed the video and gave it a try. I found that after the ink dries it leaves a hue similar to pen ink or marker ink. Black Pen ink or marker has a purple hue. Black paint does not.
Until I can figure out how to avoid this I’ll use both the dye and paint methods. The dye for the joints so they won’t chip and then paint the rest. I did two figures this way and I’m satisfied.
Did you use primer after the dye? Or just paint right over it?
@@handheldhavoc6635 i used rattle can paint made for plastic and then two different non yellowing clear coats. One gloss and then finished with a matte. It worked for what I was trying to achieve.
I was adding a different color forearm to a black upper arm. So naturally I painted the forearm black.
As for dye leaking after painting over it. I noticed on one figures hand some leakage. On the others none. This could have been due to poor paint coverage. Not sure.
I’m still trying to figure out a good method.
@@josebatista3529 So if I attempt this should I get a spray on Primer?
@@handheldhavoc6635 primer is primer. I’m not an expert but I do know primer is used for paint to be able to adhere better. The type of rattle can paint I used didn’t need a coat of primer.
Personally, I would use primer next time to ensure better adhesion. Not that I’ve seen rubbing. But to make absolutely sure I’ve tried the best methods to avoid paint rub.
To answer your question, if you can achieve a brushless appearance with a brush on primer then go for it. I don’t think I can so that’s why I use both rattle can paint (applying in thin coats) and/or an airbrush depending on what I’m painting. More detail work I use an airbrush for coating. Something like the arms I’ll use a rattle can or brush with diluted paint.
I would also let the paint cure fully before attaching limbs. Don’t rush it.
@@josebatista3529 Alright, thanks for the tips!
definitely gonna try make a silver surfer with this
This looks like an ideal solution for customizing and I appreciate you experimenting on this.
I have a bunch of questions:
Will this work on soft pliable vinyl heads like GI Joe or MEGO heads?
Will it work on very dense or less dense hard plastic?
Will it work polyester action figure fabric? I'm guessing that's probably the intended use as regular RIT fabric dye does not work on polyester.
How does the dye maintain over time?
Do the figures get sticky of tacky?
Will they collect more dust?
Does the dye rub off the figure or stain fingers or clothes ?
Any temperature warnings as far as storing or display?
Thank you.
Rich
nothing i do on this channel is the right way so , try stuff on your own risk!
@@ROCCOTHEGREAT I just wanted to know if you have already experimented with those types of plastics I mentioned. If you haven't then I'll try on soft vinyl, then let you know.
If anything like stickiness or dust or staining occurs on your figures ever happens in the future please let me know in a reply.
Thank you,
Rich
This is so cool bro. I was looking ways to paint but...
Painting leaves brush strokes
Air brush gives un even coats
Spray painting makes them sticky.
This seems the best way to go.
I just started following the steps in your video. I haven’t watching on replay lol
OoooooooomFg dude! THANK YOU so very much for posting this DOPE video & very personal to me as'well, as I LOVE doing custom work on my 3'75"s G.I.JOE & STARWARS Vintage & Modern's. I have done some REALLY AWESOME work & stuff I too have posted on MY Bookface page LOVE for ALL 3'75"s & other group's etc. However with my failing :( physical health, & hand's shake! :( UGHHH. I have had to have my wife Help me with painting! While I'm still?! Able to sculpt, fix, restore etc. Yet THIS VIDEO I was MENT to see, learn & hope for the BEST!! CHEER'S again very much. Lol my wife TOMORROW is going out to get a black, red, Dark green, blue! 👏👏👏👏👏👏 You did a great job yourself too ....
I tried this on a McFarlane Grifter jacket and arms/hands. The arms/hands turned out great, the dye does rub off on your hands a bit, I need to pat them down and seal those. But for the jacket, since its rubber and not hard plastic, it left a purple-ish hue like a black marker would and it starting to come off a bit, starting to see the green come through. I'm going to touch it up with paint and seal it as well. Hopefully that'll do the trick. This video is super helpful though!
Dude I appreciate this video because I did what you did the first time with temp, time, and the dye. Excited to do this again
wonder if I make a green ranger or other colors how do u make it bright green.i make custom figures and want to try this.
Have you had any problems with the dyes leeching out? I watched a video where a guy dyed his figure black and it literally bled out after a few days.
Does the dye leech out? Others had problems. Dyes ruining the paint job.
Hell yeah man! I put up a video using the brown to dye hands for hot toys for dark skinned figures.
I have never seen this done before. Thank you for the tutorial.
I would like to see if it works with other colors.
it does! and good luck
Hey, alpha proto, I'm just clearing something up for you, it does not work as well with other colors, if you have an all white figure it will work OK but not perfectly, the darker the figure and the lighter the color you want to dye it, the less it'll work, I have a tutorial on my channel too where I explain more of the pros and cons, and there is no need to dye your casts Rocco the great if you just cast them in black haha
@@bane426 I was thinking for a LONG time about making Thundercats from WWE figures, I am sure orange would work ok, but what about blue or green?
@@bane426 Thank you. I will make sure to check out your channel.
i like to put what im painting in hot water for some seconds, just enough to make them warm. Then i do the wash.
nice
I'm going to try to dye a McFarlane animated flash figure black to make a animated Zoom figure.....do the figures get loose after you boil them?
Rocco dropping another gem!
thank you!
Anyone know if it’s okay to dye, prime then paint in that order? I was using the damtoys drawman for a few customs and there were a few with darker skin. I don’t wanna paint the joints but I don’t mind them being slightly off color it’s just I’d rather the skin tone not be a crazy difference
if i do this can i use a pot that i also use to cook. like if i use it will the pot get stained? and will i be able to use it again after using the dye in it?
dont use your food pot for this PLEASE! get a trash pot for dyes
Where did u get the black synthetic, I only see graphite as the darkest color
I got the one in the video at Walmart!
Great tutorial. Can’t wait to test this on some model kits!
Just found out there are Black and Jet Black(which Somes in a kit) Rit colors. I think graphite dye has a higher chance of making your figures have a dark shimmer copper. And black dye a sort of shimmer dark purple. If the dye doesn't take in the plastic exactly how you want, depending on the plastic and other factors. Which it looks cool if that's what you want. But I was hoping for black black especially on my custom DnD articulated figure project. I'll retry with ajet black rit dye kit
Also worth noting that black is really a deep dark blue.
Did this years ago with gi joes and learned that don't boil part by accident also alley vipers look better in black.
Sorry I guess I’m missing what you said...Don’t boil only a specific part by accident?
Wash them in cold salt water after you let the dye set to remove excess dye 👍
How long do you leave them in the water?
Is it the same with wwe figures
oh yea! will work every better with them!
So I painted a figure fully black but the joints always chip when I move them. If I were to do this to the figure would it still dye the plastic without effecting the paint
Great tutorial. I'm curious, does the blackness fade? Thanks in adventure 😊
Not that I know of! the dye might leak for some time after though !
Thank you for sharing this with us!!! I’m definitely gonna use this!
Hope you like it!
tried this and got some cool results. alot of parts didnt dye at all which was odd, i cant figure out why, its very specific parts of eahc figure.
used the same rick flag figure and got completely different results than this
Great information. Thank you very much. Do you know if this works on vehicle plastic or just action figure plastic? Thanks.
Nice, gonna turn my zombie hunter spidey into symbiote spidey
I usually just prime them with rustoleum once or twice.. Still deal with joint issues though with paint chipping. Does this eliminate paint chipping? I'm definitely a little nervous cooking em up
I have a question is there a way to mask of a part of the figure while you dye the rest?
Thanks! I will try this when I get my bed delivered soon😋
Bout to try this with some ninjas. Hope it works out fine on our electric stove. Any tips?
Thanks you this answered what I was doing wrong. Gotta use the synthetic dye.
I made that mistake too! haha
Great tutorial. Exactly what I was looking for 😎👍 thank you for sharing this!
Awesome. Got a couple gi Joe's I'm planning on using.
Oh my God bro you have helped me out more than you realize. I've been want to do some very special custom figures like take the NECA 200 3 Battlestar Godzilla and turn it into a dark evil Godzilla. I was taking a route of spray painting my figures and I thought about doing that but I was still worried about some paint chipping because there are some joints that are very tight and there are some parts that are just grinding against each other. But this is the solution to Future problems. I tried repainting a NECA Predator figure some time ago but whenever I moved the joints around the paint kept scrapping off. Thank you brother you are in my heart now. I'm going to try to go to Walmart this Thursday even though there's a hurricane coming and see if I can pick up some synthetic Dy. If I can get it and do it brother I'm giving you a shout out and definitely recommend people to check out this video and your channel. like I said I subscribed to you a while ago but I've never been on check out your channel and now I can't tell you how happy I am that I'm subscribed to you!!! Thank you so much this is really going to be a major help for so many many future projects I have plans and save me a lot on some paint.
I'm looking to dye and paint my frog man, but I'm not sure how it will take paint since is mostly made of softer plastic
So after you dy it is ready to paint
If I stick something partially into the dye, will I get a clean line or will it be fuzzy?
"I see crappy action figures, I want to dye them black." 🎵🎶
Does it stain your fingers after much manipulation?
Mine didn't stain brey dark. However it was pretty noticeable under my fingernails and crevices on the side of my fingernails. Made them look dirty when they actually weren't. But a quick shower, warm water and soap got rid of that. Beware of staining clothes. Ruined a nice shirt of mine.
5:20 would nail polish remover work better?
it can!
Out of curiosity, what happens exactly if you don’t use the synthetic dye? Do they warp, gunk up the joints, melt away the plastic etc?
Great video!!!! Very informative thank you. Iv seen ppl do this but wasnt sure what dye to use.
This is an awesome tutorial. Thanks so much for doing it.!
Is it permanent?
Yo Rocco love the videos man.
thank YOU buddy
This works with minis as well this is going to speed up army painting
100%%%%
Do you think this could work well with white? I am trying to make figma genji white for his nihon skin in overwatch
0:36 what are those figs called
Great video, can’t wait to try!
Did you save the dye mixture? Or did you toss it after you were done. I saved mine in a jar. To use a second time and get my money's worth.
Cool tip... Very informative.
Thanks for sharing it here on TH-cam.
Glad it was helpful!
Does the dye fade or does it only fade if you don't put the figure in the dye long enough
HI I HAVE QUESTION CAN I USE THE SAME POT MORE THEN ONCE ?
I have a project in mind that requires me to make a brightly coloured figure solid black
Question. I have a Phicen seamless figure made of Thermoplastic Elastomer. I tried dye but it took forever, which I see by your video, your method was easier.
I just winged it until I found something that works. there might be even easier ways than this one. good luck on your customs! thanks for the comment
Can u use masking tape or some type of tape for the areas you don’t want to be black?
Deleted my old comment because I just finished dyeing moon knight. Got him completely black after about an hour of stirring. Started the water on 4 and brought it almost to boiling (occasional small bubbles in the water) then took it down to 2 and poured in 1/2 to 3/4 of the dye. Almost completely disassembled him which I'm sure helped.
Any tips for the immediate after care? I have all the pieces drying unassembled right now, just wanna make sure whether or not I should wash the figure to get rid of that dye smell, or if I should just let it dry and pop it all back together
AGH, I can't believe I bought the wrong kind of Rit Dye before I saw this video!! -_-
Is there a way to remove dye that's already in the plastic?
If it doesn't come off with acetone or nail polish remover, its probably molded in the plastic. Not much you can do. Dyeing is probably the easiest way.
I am currently trying to do costume loyal subject translucent Movie Green ranger. now I found a Rit Emerald green all purpose dye can I use that?
My figured turned out dark green
I’m planning to dye my ML civil warrior black then paint white over. Would like to know your tips on making sure the black dye won’t leak through the white? Thanks!
sadly I didn't figure this out yet. it seems dye leakage is pretty common ):
Thank for this video! Good stuff!
Would this work on a Mafex figure?
Whats the music your using in the background
Can you help my please? I have an idea 💡You know marvel legends figures right? There are most of them with suit on. My plan is to make a figure with an white shirt. But do you think a white marker can cover the black hands suit? So that it's look all white? I want a figure without jacket but only shirt. I don't know if you underhand my idea 🤔
Double checked, but Vinegar can help dye plastics, dunno how good/bad that may be for figures though.
From a quick search
"When cotton yarn or fabrics are dyed, salt is added to the dye bath as a mordant to help the fibers absorb the dye. For wool or nylon, the acid in vinegar acts as a mordant in the dye bath to help the fibers absorb dye."
Hasbro is actually using the Doctor strange for their Red Ninja figure coming out soon!!🧨
really???
How long did you leave them in there for?
Can you dye in grey colour too?
Where do you buy this paint at
Could i preserve skin colors on figures while dying them by covering the parts i dont want dyed in masking tape?
I'm pretty sure liquid would eventually get under or absorb through the tape
Do you know how to make a transparent colored figure?
Thanks for putting this up!