1:25 Hi guys. Thank you for the best description I've yet see/heard about the hollow grind (mostly rejected as "weak"). Not all hollow grinds are as depicted, however. For instance, a grind on a 15" wheel that is quite steep very closely resembles a sabre grind and is a formidable performer for most tasks. The reason is that the grind is shallow if the grind is quite steep (like most Scandi grinds, but not quite. This then takes a secondary bevel at the edge, which is much easier to sharpen than a Scandi) Also, if one uses some sharpening system (eg a Lansky) then the secondary bevel is not convex, but V grind). As with you guys, I learned on a wheel grinder (with a 15" wheel) and my mentor always advised a steep angle and not to take the grind too high up the blade. This ensures much more thickness exactly where you indicated the weak spot, thus reducing that weakness considerably. Thanks guys! Sabre grind. A bit confused as to why you guys refer to the secondary bevel as being a convex grind. Surely that would depend on your sharpening mechanism/technique. In my experience nearly all I've seen are invariably more a V grind, and this is how I made them. 8:15 Scandi grind. I'm still confused why people say it's easier to sharpen than a V secondary bevel? This does not make any sense whatsoever. Where the edge is straight it is fairly easy, granted, but the minute you hit the curve that's surely where the angle becomes very difficult to keep flat through the curve? Either it will dig in and cause a secondary bevel, or round the shoulder over, almost causing a convex shape to form over time. For experienced guys it would not be such a problem but for the average guy out in the field with a small stone or strop it would be very difficult to do it well. I've seen several videos by knifemakers telling of knives thus damaged by "amateur" sharpening. One prominent knifemaker even says he would not dream of sharpening his Scandi in the field. Your thoughts? 11;00 Convex grind. One thing that bothers me here is the sharpening procedure, without the grinder! Do you sharpen only the secondary bevel (like a flat/hollow/sabre grind or the whole width like the Scani primary bevel? If you sharpen the secondary bevel only, surely over time that secondary bevel is going to become ever wider and much more difficult to sharpen. What do you do then? I've seen some videos that advocate that one does not use a secondary bevel, and sharpen as for a Scandi? Your thoughts please? Thanks for a great video.
Excellent presentation. But there are many more grinds. Recently I came across something called a hollow Scandi grind. It was designed for fine carving, and the maker claims its faster to touch up. Looked really clever to me!
Great video fellas! I've always loved knives and in the last two years have started getting into the technical side of blades, and bushcrafting. I've always had trouble understanding grinds an how to apply them to certain chores. This video did a great job explaining it and made it very easy to understand unlike other vids were the person may get ahead of themselves while explaining or miss important details or they are just all around bad teachers hahaha. So again thank you for doing a great job with this and I'm definately going to show this to my Rangers class (like boy scouts) at church for their edged tool certification!
Rockin' presentation guys - I should have watched this years ago! I knew a little about the basic grinds, but this really deepened my knowledge! Excellent. Most of my knives are saber ground, due to they are more tactical.
@@MrLeonidas0001 ah I see what you did 🤔 I don’t feel the need for so many knives as weapons so I must be soft. Right. Try not to bring your knives to school, even if some of the bigger girls tease you. Just tell a teacher
Full zero ground convex knives make up the majority of my collection. He'll I've even reground some of yours to zero. Not that your micro bevel wasn't sharp. I do a lot of wood processing and I need that early bite. Plus I strop hone all my working knives daily. Good video explanation guys.
Good videos. I am a knife fan, hunter, and know Dan personally. I often see Dan or is wife and daughter vending his knives at the Eagle Arms gun show at Oaks, near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Tell him to show the many impressive trophy buck deer he shot with his arrows and dressed with his knives. I run the large Lehigh Valley Knife Shows in Easton, Pennsylvania. www.PAKnifeShow.com
I sympathize with manufacturers. Hollow grind knives are great tools. But should be used by people with common sense who know the limits. Designing a knife to be immune to the effects of idiots can require compromise to ‘optimal’ cutting performance.
Still one of the best videos on TH-cam when it comes to grind type explanations. Thank you guys!
Excellent job. Best video I have seen on the topic to date. Thank you!
very well explained thanks alot for sharing!!! 👍👍
SUPER helpful, love the pro explanations. HOW does this only have 700 likes...
Thanks for sharing 😊
great video .. top notch info!!
1:25 Hi guys. Thank you for the best description I've yet see/heard about the hollow grind (mostly rejected as "weak"). Not all hollow grinds are as depicted, however. For instance, a grind on a 15" wheel that is quite steep very closely resembles a sabre grind and is a formidable performer for most tasks. The reason is that the grind is shallow if the grind is quite steep (like most Scandi grinds, but not quite. This then takes a secondary bevel at the edge, which is much easier to sharpen than a Scandi) Also, if one uses some sharpening system (eg a Lansky) then the secondary bevel is not convex, but V grind). As with you guys, I learned on a wheel grinder (with a 15" wheel) and my mentor always advised a steep angle and not to take the grind too high up the blade. This ensures much more thickness exactly where you indicated the weak spot, thus reducing that weakness considerably. Thanks guys! Sabre grind. A bit confused as to why you guys refer to the secondary bevel as being a convex grind. Surely that would depend on your sharpening mechanism/technique. In my experience nearly all I've seen are invariably more a V grind, and this is how I made them. 8:15 Scandi grind. I'm still confused why people say it's easier to sharpen than a V secondary bevel? This does not make any sense whatsoever. Where the edge is straight it is fairly easy, granted, but the minute you hit the curve that's surely where the angle becomes very difficult to keep flat through the curve? Either it will dig in and cause a secondary bevel, or round the shoulder over, almost causing a convex shape to form over time. For experienced guys it would not be such a problem but for the average guy out in the field with a small stone or strop it would be very difficult to do it well. I've seen several videos by knifemakers telling of knives thus damaged by "amateur" sharpening. One prominent knifemaker even says he would not dream of sharpening his Scandi in the field. Your thoughts? 11;00 Convex grind. One thing that bothers me here is the sharpening procedure, without the grinder! Do you sharpen only the secondary bevel (like a flat/hollow/sabre grind or the whole width like the Scani primary bevel? If you sharpen the secondary bevel only, surely over time that secondary bevel is going to become ever wider and much more difficult to sharpen. What do you do then? I've seen some videos that advocate that one does not use a secondary bevel, and sharpen as for a Scandi? Your thoughts please? Thanks for a great video.
nice work!
Great video, you really educated me on the different Grinds. I think the saber my favorite. You guys rock. Very clear and percise and thank you
Excellent presentation. But there are many more grinds. Recently I came across something called a hollow Scandi grind. It was designed for fine carving, and the maker claims its faster to touch up. Looked really clever to me!
Excellent video BTW ! These guys know knives !
Great video fellas! I've always loved knives and in the last two years have started getting into the technical side of blades, and bushcrafting. I've always had trouble understanding grinds an how to apply them to certain chores. This video did a great job explaining it and made it very easy to understand unlike other vids were the person may get ahead of themselves while explaining or miss important details or they are just all around bad teachers hahaha. So again thank you for doing a great job with this and I'm definately going to show this to my Rangers class (like boy scouts) at church for their edged tool certification!
Glad to have the saber grind explained. That sounds like the grind for me. Thanks guys!
I love that your educating your customers so they can make a better decision.
Rockin' presentation guys - I should have watched this years ago! I knew a little about the basic grinds, but this really deepened my knowledge! Excellent. Most of my knives are saber ground, due to they are more tactical.
Need to stab a lot of people?
@@MrProctitus Need less soy in your diet?
@@MrLeonidas0001 ah I see what you did 🤔 I don’t feel the need for so many knives as weapons so I must be soft. Right.
Try not to bring your knives to school, even if some of the bigger girls tease you. Just tell a teacher
@@MrProctitus The best weapon is a sharp mind 🔪😎🇺🇸
Thanks for the informative videos, guys. Looking forward to purchasing one of your knives, come my next paycheck! :)
Easy to understand, great info! Thanks guys!
I like the scandi and convex as those are both real easy to hand sharpen. Can't wait to get my Bushpig that's on backorder!
I’m driving and thought my wheel was falling off
Great video, Thanks
Great video guys!
What angle is the saber grind? Primary and secondary grinds. does the angle change with the blade thickness? Thanks for the education.
"Every blade is something between a chisel and a razor"......Becker
Great video. Would have been nice to get upclose view of the knives your holding but still great explanation.
Full zero ground convex knives make up the majority of my collection. He'll I've even reground some of yours to zero. Not that your micro bevel wasn't sharp. I do a lot of wood processing and I need that early bite. Plus I strop hone all my working knives daily. Good video explanation guys.
I can see .. The man on the right .. knows …!!! im suprized he has so much patience with the guy on the left … thnx man on the right side...
Good information guys.....thanks!
Nice, honest talk. cheers guys!
The way you describe it, it seems that convex should drag a lot more than scandi, more contact with the wood.
Nice discussion. Years of experience here.
I really wish flat grinds are the only kind. It is so hard to find outside the kitchen
Good videos. I am a knife fan, hunter, and know Dan personally. I often see Dan or is wife and daughter vending his knives at the Eagle Arms gun show at Oaks, near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Tell him to show the many impressive trophy buck deer he shot with his arrows and dressed with his knives. I run the large Lehigh Valley Knife Shows in Easton, Pennsylvania. www.PAKnifeShow.com
Great information,,,great video. Just with you could have had a close up shot on each knife.
When you have a chance check out videos with "shark tooth compound" for strops
thank you
Great Info: So I need 5 knives. Lucky number in Japan.
Question.... What the heck is a scandi- vex....
That is a name for an improperly sharpened Scandinavian grind with a convex edge.
I sympathize with manufacturers. Hollow grind knives are great tools. But should be used by people with common sense who know the limits. Designing a knife to be immune to the effects of idiots can require compromise to ‘optimal’ cutting performance.
And these guys are allowed to make knives?????????
So I'm confused by this comment. What exactly do you mean? Not trying to be a jerk but honestly just want to know.