Good video! One thing I really like about the scandi grind... is that even when it feels dull it still seems to carve wood really well. But I love my little kephart knife with a flat grind too.
Couldn't agree more with your knife philosophy. Like yourself, I have my favorite knives for different tasks but we all need to put in the time to understand what can and should be done with a certain style of knife.
You're explanation of the reasons for the different grinds makes sense. In simple words that I could understand. Too many people try to sound like a mechanical engineer and dazzle people with technical words. I like the way you say it.
Hi William!... just passing here to tell you I´m subscribed at your channel a couple of days ago and I love it!.. Just great information, great scenes, great knives, fresh concepts, all of it is great!... Thanks for sharing all this with other People. Regards from Argentine. Note: Sorry for my english... lol xD
my grandfather sharpened all his knives convex on a flat piece of wood with very fine sand, dry. and then carton box or lether belt stropping. thanks for all the cool vids ;)
It is a very good grind as I said. I just wonder how it would be for a long term bug out. Carton boxes would eventually wear out. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I find that nothing beats an Opinel's flat grind when taking off material near the tip of the branch. I can get it to bite real deep because I know the cut will run out through the endgrain. Those shoulders on a Scandi act like fulcrums with which you can regulate the depth of a cut. Depending on the wood, they also allow you to create a long split down the grain with a simple twist of the wrist.
Say Heah, You made me realize something, I always said I liked a Saber Grind to work wood with and I probably meant it baton's better that shoulder which I call a relief edge it does split better. But you brought in the light to me and yes a Flat does cut better.
The uses you have explained make sense. I enjoy hearing your 2 cents on matters like this. I was watching someones video last week, I can't remember who it was, but they were talking about polishing their blades in circumstances where your buffing agent was gone and he took a piece of quartz crushed and ground and used as powder for a strop or polishing the blades he had. Was pretty interesting. I do love your hogs tooth knife. Drooling. lol
Great video thanks, as someone who has rekindled interest in knives it's a real surprise that the Scandinavian grind is everywhere . But it has a faults that you point out very well.
I really enjoyed your video. If Ihad to get just one tool it probably would have to be one with a full konvex grind. Easy skarpens with circular motions. However. I usually go tool heavy and carry at least two or perhaps even five cutting devices. Med size axe, small folding saw, 22 cm leuku, 10 cm stick tang with small scandi, also perhaps leatherman and filet knife. Note: like every grind except hollow. Doesn’t like sharpen knives curve frontwise, like kukri. But own one antique kukri and they kust look awesome. Like thinner scandi blades. 2-3 mm depending on use.
...William...I do enjoy the down-home honesty and common sense opinion...reminds me of when I was growing up in the mid-west as a kid sitting down and talking with the older fellas. Of course I'm now one of those older fellas...(ok a bit older than even you - but who's counting). Yep, I'm a knife guy and carry far too many but I do enjoy having a tool to do the job at hand...and a good 'hawk, hatchet, or ax along with a solid companion knife and the key - the knowledge (which takes practice) to use them - you're good in the outdoors. All the VERY BEST! as always...
Excellent video my friend,i'm buying the Enzo trapper knife and I couldn't make my mind up between Scandi and Flat grind,I'll go with your opinion and get the flat grind, just subbed.
I pretty much agree with you..I use my scandi grind when doing carving, but that's all I use it for. All other tasks, I use a saber or full flat. I love my convex grinds, but as you said..if you are building a long term bug out bag, you should probably not throw a convex into it. For just a weekend outing, a convex is fine. But then again, for a long term bug out, I, like you, would probably throw a half dozen knives into my pack...cuz I too am a knife nut, lol. Long term, I would not want to trust just one knife..what if it breaks, or I lose it? Always good to have a backup blade in mho. You just never know what old man Murphy might throw at you.
I would agre to some extent but consider this what is your knife breaks and you have to use a different knife? I am of the opinion we should use as many different knife styles and grinds as possible so we are comfortable with any knife we have to use. Know its limits and what is will excel at. Appreciate the view and comment.
I am very new to the bushcrafting scene and after buying all the wrong knives I finally found out what works and what doesn't. I totally agree, I don't have any fancy blades yet but I do have a Condor Bushlore I paid a whopping $29 for on ebay, now my go to scandi edc. Another great budget flat grind is a knife by Schrade the Brian Griffin designed SCHF42, ITS 1095HC with a recurve, they also did a straight edge SCHF42d. For whittling and carving my Bushlore beats out my two Mora's the HQ robust and the newer Robust Pro. I can whittle tell my hands give out LOL literally, a nice sharp scandi or flat is perfect for the task.
HA HA briar and will i am right here lol. I agree with you for most people. What makes me a little different is the natural movement on stones the way i sharpen i consistently come out with a scandi vex and found it to be my favorite so i embraced it. I love a flat grind too though used a rat 7 for years and still cut meat in the kitchen with a filet knife its so thin it just glides on through but for all around you know what i like the scandi vex. Which we are knife nerds lol. Talking about apex of the angle and confusing the hell out of everyone. Anyway enjoyed the video brother keep em coming.
I was wondering when you would show up and give us an education on the scandi vex and the benefits of it. LOL!! Glad you joined in brother. Always nice to have you on whittle talk.
Heah, Heah Say Heah Mr. William, Above all, I want to Wish You and Your Family a Happy Easter. I missed you, Nice to see you again. Thanx for sharing your expertise.
Thank You for the video. I would like to ask, regarding the convex, do You find a difference in long term maintaining an axe (a convex probably) and a convex knife?
Pavol Beluško appreciate your view and comment. Typically the axe steel is harder then the knife so the steel doesn’t wear over time on the axe like the knife will. Other then that no difference.
i think i agree with what u aid here. i love convex but sharpening it long term is too difficult but they EXCEL while you do have the means to sharpen them. if i had to go to the woods for months i would grab my old schrade deerslayer and silver stag deer skinner. but as for now my homesteader is my go to knife
+frankgon4 Thank you, it was heavily influenced by the kukuri design. Here is the introduction of this knife. I named it the "Hogstooth". th-cam.com/video/vq9i0CEhKaI/w-d-xo.html
Generally I like Sabrevex the most. About quarter or third of the blade (depends on steel, width, thickness, length, and priority of purpose) to be 90 degree shoulder from spine, then a very shallow continuous convex bevel to the very edge. That shallow that unskilled eyes see it flat. My strops (in various sizes, models, and loads keep them razor sharp easily) I said generally and I mean for convenient knives. Common knives. But your knives, typically with those beautiful sophisticated grinds are completely different stories. I prefer them your way. My priorities for an outdoor knife are 1. Game dressing 2. Butchering 3. Survival capability 4- Food prep 5- wood job Accordingly 👆🏽 And I have learned when it comes to outdoor knives world, in general, A 5” blade will do anything a 6” blade does, as well. And a 4.75” blade would do anything a 5” blade does, even better. Again for me. Talking about common knives not your ones.
I was going to buy the schrade schf42 but i fiddled around too long trying to compare it to other knives and i waited too long and they stopped production and now I cant find any anywhere
William, you should consider signing on for Forged in Fire! I bet you could win! Most of these blade smiths can't even follow the simple directions/ parameters set forth by the judges... It's really quite sad.
***** Never watched that show. Not much into reality shows, or nothing on TV really. I would rather watch you tube videos or movies on the internet. Appreciate the view and comment.
Hi William, Forged in Fire is basically the same exact concept as the Food Network TV show Chopped, on with blade forging instead of food! I think the prize is $10,000. I know Murray Carter of Carter Cutlery is competing on the show on August 10th. It's on History Channel. If you have some down time, give it a watch, you might like it! 😀
+Dan Schwemin Jr just guessing but if he doesn't watch tv or know what the show you're talking about he probably not gonna be familiar with the Food CHannel show either. Lol
Real awesome blades you made. I've been having fun forging 3/18 5160 steel into skinner small blades. And I use full flat since I see is easier to create and touch up. And if I really need to sharpen my blade in the field. Believe me, flat for choice. Bye
I recently got a Jeff White English Trade Knife. I've been meaning to pick up one of your crooked knives. I really like the Trade Knife, but it has a convex edge. I have some strops, but I was also worried about the problems you mentioned with that grind. I was think maybe I should just re-profile the edge to give it a more defined bevel. I have a 1000/6000 Japanese Water stone. the only grit lower I have is my old Boy Scout sharpening stone, and it is rough. What do you think I should do?
I would not reprofile the edge unless you needed to in a survival situation but if you prefer a flat grind over the convex then those stones will work. It will take a lot of work and time though. Thanks for joining the whittle talk.
That´s a very informtaive vid, thank you! What´s your opinion about Tip-strength? If you have to drill some minor holes frequently I´ve got the feeling that the tip of a flat grind knive that is sharpened right to the tip will almost always break on the very end of the tip (to a very little amount, so you almost cannot see but feel it by hand). A scandi won´t. But the "broken" tip of the flat will still penetrate at least as good as the not broken, but quite fat scandi-tip. AmI right? I´d appreciate your opinion, and sorry for my bad english, it is not my first language...
+Wartstein 1 I discuss blade tips in this video. th-cam.com/video/TNAiudWpVqc/w-d-xo.html Also tip strength comes from type of steel and heat treat. Appreciate your view and comment.
Personally I use my knives for slicing. The current craze of splitting logs with knives is insane. 99% of the time you don't even need to split wood for a fire, if you do an axe is always a better tool.
Imo a knife and a baton is the same as an axe just dissociated into two parts and therefore both safer and more precise than an axe. You put the knife exactly where you want it and then you apply the force. Much more manageable and safe for anyone around compared to swinging an axe around. Oh and I've never broken any knives by batoning, even cheap knives. For felling a tree I can do that with a knife but prefer an axe of course
I've heard this argument for batoning a few times - that it's safer with a knife. Well, over the years I've only ever cut or whatever myself with a knife, never screwed up with an axe. Sorry, but if you think you're gonna hurt yourself with an axe, you don't know how to use it. Big overhead, mindless swings isn't the only way to use an axe. You can baton with an axe too.
@@circedge Kind of a straw man. I don't think any reasonable person would choose a knife over an axe for heavy duty wood processing. But I also don't think any reasonable person would be carrying an axe in his backpack on a long hike, especially since a reasonable person isn't going to make a fire in the backcountry unless it's absolutely necessary. That person may however have a knife, and in an emergency he can process some firewood with it. Axes are for your backyard, or for when you're building a campfire twenty feet from your truck bumper.
Don't any of you people hike? Do you just sit in your backyards? An axe is a better tool IF YOU HAVE ONE WITH YOU. But if you get lost while hiking in the mountains, you probably don't have one with you. And so you make due with what you have, which is a knife. If you absolutely need to make a fire to stay warm or to purify drinking water, batonning with a knife is certainly not insane.
I agree with the opinion about the convex blade. I got a knife that I like hoe it feels in my hand, but, the only complaint I have is the convex grind. I'm redoing the edge into more of a Saber grind. I'm going to get a neck-knife for around camp, but this video changed my mind about a scandi-vex grind. I'll be doing more than whittling and I can see where the Flat grind will work better with what I'll be doing. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video. I'm brand new to your channel so forgive me if you've already covered this in another video but how do you sharpen your kukri blade? I've always found the recurve part at the base is just a bitch to sharpen because you cant lay it on a stone. I love that style blade but I'm always hesitant to buy one for the reason of sharpening difficulty.
As with all things once you learn the process it is easy. here is an old video of how I sharpen a kukuri. If you visit my home page my videos are listed in playlist to better find what interest you. Appreciate your support and view. th-cam.com/video/7oG0SYjWwoY/w-d-xo.html
Say Heah William, I study you, I watch your videos over and over as you can see by my many posts. I don't think the grind is as important as it is to have a thinner apex to cut. I bet that all three knives had the similar if not the same apex thickness. and ofcource your ability on handling each knife. I bet if I gave you a knife as a gift. The first thing you would do is reproduce the edge especially thinning the apex, I totally agree with you. I use to think a Bushcraft knife was around a 4" blade, But I feel more comfortable with a longer blade, Simply because a large knife could do what a small knife can but a small knife can't do what a large knife can. I could almost pick up a knife and tell if there's enough weight to beable to chop with it, The bigger the better, the more weight determine that. So my belt/feild/camp knives I like somewhere between 5"-6" and I don't even have to classify those categories. A sharp knife will take care of those categories. and you sort of proved that to me. All those three knives seemed very sharp.
would you recommend a full flat grind as a EDC knife. im looking at a spyderco tenacious but also a hollow point kershaw cryo 2.. i like your videos and opinions so i subscribed!!
+William Collins (WC Knives) thank you for the fast response!! i plan on lite duty edc... cutting cardboard, rope, food prep, stick carving. etc.. i think from watching some of your videos the full flat grind spyderco tenacios or hollow grind kershaw cryo 2 will work. both of them use 8cr13mov steel and want something easy to resharpen without some crazy elaborate sharpening system, which would be full flat grind? both of these knives are in the $40 range and are folders.
5:18 And then some people go into the woods and try to fell a tree with it. :^D I put a fake scandi grind on my Buck Paklite Skinner, which is my EDC knife since 2016. Frankly, the knife is not manufactured for such grind, so what I got is something that can be sharpened like a scandi, but just looks like something that gets step by step thinner and is very thin and also very sharp. Now I can use it effortless for carving though, which was not enjoyable before, because the grind wasn't up for carving and it is just bare metal. I wonder what knife manufaturers would call such grind. Cheers!
Yeah, if I had it to do over, I'd get flat grind on my Woodlore Clone. I like it a lot as it is, but a flat grind would make it perfect. I like the scandi-style on the carver, but kind of wish it had a saber grind.
Convex=chopping/splitting 2. Flat=slicing/skinning. 3. Scandi= woodworking. 4. Saber = stronger than flat but less slicey. 5. Hollow= best slicer but least tough. 6. Chisel= should be used on an actual chisel as if this ground is put on a knife it is only designed to be used in the left or right hand depending on what side the grind is on. These are just My overall takes on grinds from experience and learning
Saber is a great grind for sure but for slicing ability the full flat has the advantage. You still have a pinch point at the primary grind apex with a saber. Depends on blade thickness as to how much of a pinch point. Kitchen knives are full flat for a reason. They slice better. Watch my video on slicing in the Whittle Talk playlist it may explain my opinion it a little better.
I prefer convex. Best of all worlds...no shoulder, yet thick enough at the apex to hold up to lots of bone touching, knot carving, etc. I can sharpen one with a arkansas stone, but it does take lots of practice and a bellied out stone. BUT, For a bug out or hunting trip where I'm not gonna have time to sit around and hone a knife for an hour, I'll take a flat grind all day. If the flat ground blade is meaty enough with a large secondary bevel it will hold edge all day and is still easy to touch up. Now, If you strop the shoulder off of that secondary bevel and make just that part convex...then you're getting into my realm...scandi-vex, flat-vex, hollow-vex...so much fun to play around with this stuff! Where's Bobby Moody at anyway???
LOL, where is Bobby? He is a huge fan of the scandi-vex. But now we are talking hybrid grinds that knife nerds like us just eat up. Anywho, Do you recall in the movie "Legends of the Fall" where he was sharpening his big bowie knife after his wife was killed? He was sharpening the knife like you would be a convex grind but using a stone. I would need lots of practice to do that. It seams you have made it work. That is so cool. Like I said convex is a good grind. I just haven't figured out the field sharpening yet so I prefer my flats.
I butchered a deer with my Gerber folder. It was better then a larger knife I had. I have thought about the grinds like this. I have wondered about the canvas verses the scandi and found some of the same.
+paulie 4x This video will help. th-cam.com/video/ZpsZGlpg_80/w-d-xo.html. I would suggest you watch all of my whittle Talk play list. You may find them interesting.
I like your thoughts on this. How do you feel about a scandi that is thinner... 3/32" or 7/64"... Or in metric.. 2mm or 2.5mm... Mora's slice quite well but I've honestly never cleaned game with one.
Since you asked....LOL!!! The knife in the video is 1/8". That is the max thickness I would want in a scandi edge knife. Anything over that, IMHO, is to difficult to use even with feather sticks. The blade has to be held at too steep of an angle to miss the shoulders. I have used thinner scandi knives such as the mora but we must remember the scandi edge was first designed in Scandinavia to use on soft woods for carving and butchering. Once we try to use these same knives in our hardwoods we then have problems. The edges roll or chip. The mora is a great carver in soft woods and they excel as a small game skinner. I find that they are lacking in harder woods and if you hit the edge against bone. They have a tendency to chip or roll the edge. This is my opinion and there are exceptions but Mora came out with a thicker blade such as the robust for a reason. If you find a scandi that does not chip or roll in hard wood then treasure it with your life. They are very rare. Thanks for the view, comment, and support.
William Collins thanks for the reply.. I always thought that the strength of an edge is heavily dependent on the apex angle.. Such as convex grinds tend to have a larger angle at the apex, same goes for flat ground with secondary bevels. I think that the apex angle is key (given the heat treat in't a variable). I do agree 100% that the large bevel/shoulder area of scandi knives is a hinderance in slicing.. It's physics... awesome chat! keep up the cool video's!
ThePatriot4freedom I like the convex as I said in the video and agree with your apex theory. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to maintain a convex long term in the field. This is why I prefer the flat and saber grinds.
you can always grind your scandi's at a larger angle? lol I guess common is some where between 25 - 30 degrees. I would be less reluctant to like flat grinds if I could sharpen them worth a darn... scandi's are so simple
What degree (°) and how thin do you grind a flat grind edge. Do you experience alot of chipping. I understand you like a toothy edge on your wood knives.
+paulie 4x Don't have a chipping issue. Chipping is caused in most cases buy improper use and seldom from heat treat. Also steel selection for intended use is a must when selecting a knife. here is a video explaining my apex philosophy. th-cam.com/video/ixH5hP71zeg/w-d-xo.html
I don't know why most people only use sandpaper/strops to sharpen a convex grind. you can literally use rods, whetstones, diamondplates etc to sharpen a convex in the field longterm. Carbonsteels can easily be maintained that way, a convex on a high alloy stainless PM steel is another story however.
spizaetus this is a very old video and many things have changed. This is the knife but I suggest you visit my website www.wcknives.com for my latest designs or my You Tube home page. th-cam.com/video/vq9i0CEhKaI/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I wanted to ask you based on your experience for bushcraft contelli if the profile scandi or flati is better? Let me know what you think, thanks Michele.
Michele Trekkning scandi is a wood carving and strong batonning blade. Full flat is a slicing and fine wood carving blade not as strong for batonning. Depends on what you consider bushcraft.
No use carrying a Binder out in the Woods. Less resistance during tasks is Safe knife handling any unpredictable behavior Cause's Injury. My Personal Duo is The Kershaw Camp 10" and the Mora Companion Orange. My EDC belt knife. that I always have on me. Is the Bear Gryll's Ultimate Pro. closest I have to an all in one Option is the Selkirk Buck. "Survival/Bush" Knife. LOL
which reminds me of my need for a full flat ground, 3" blade cutter for camp tasks.....probably in 1/8th or 3/32nds O1 (or 1095). I'm using a mora 510 in that role right now....but a flat ground knife would be better...lol
Outdoor Dauber bad idea would be very thin and weak. They use the scandi because it allows more strength in a thinner blade. Just knock the shoulders down on the edge of the grind and it'll be closer to what you want, but don't take to much.
These are my current dealers. Northern Woodsman is located in Canada. If you order from my website then outside of US shipping above knife cost is $45.00 added at checkout.
A convex edge can be sharpened anywhere in nature on a rock. Thats how a convex edge came into existence. The first ever man made edged tools naturally had a convex edge from grinding them against rocks. Not sure where this confusion about convex edges came from. If you took your scandi or full flat grind knife and survived with it for years on a desert island they would all end up with a convex edge eventually.
Say Heah, I like a scandi for a simple reason, To carve and work wood good, and you need a sharp edge to do that. The Scandi is a much simpler edge than a Convex, infact if you don't know what your doing, you end up with a Flat Grind, Yeah, the knife I'm carrying on this trip, I have my INFI RatManDu, It's a High Saber Flat Grind, and my Back-up is my Stromeng KS 5, it's a Scandi. Even though we came as a group. I still went lite. the INFIManDu I also took my Hultafors Bruks 17" Agdor range Hatchet which I still use your technique axe tapping kindling and my olé faithful Wicked Tough Saw, we only went a State East of us, anyhow, again, Happy New Year.
Just want to get things straight here as a scandi person: the flat grind has a microbewel on it right? Otherwise that angle is way to low to not break. The scandi grind is flat without a microbewel because you need that flat ro ride on as you are carving to have more control, that is the main reason why scandigrind exist -for slojd work. The flat grind is just as a convex better suited for all around work. But a convex grind does not require a special sharpening system as you mentioned you just need to be damn good at keeping the right angles to make the edge properly rounded on the sharpening stone. Anyway cheers for your input buddy :)
Actually the Scandi has a micro bevel to add strength and the full flat has a secondary bevel at about 22.5 degree angle. The Scandi performing soft wood feathers does excel. However with a proper full flat grind I can actually control the thickness of feathers better. The finer the feathers the easier that will light. I just find the Scandi lacking in other areas in my opinion. For instance the pinch points and the fragile edge. I encourage you to watch more of my videos on slicing test. And whittle talk play list for more testing and why I have this opinion. The Scandi has its place and if it works for you then that is great. Just keep an open mind is all I ask. It isn't my favorite grind is all. I prefer a full flat or a high saber.
Yeah well my scandi has only one bevel and it is perfect for slojdstuff as you can se on my channel, otherwise agree about all you say sir and the scandi is not at all universall only for high performance carving. Thanks
Give me a good Bowie (a real one, quality) and a Mora Bushcraft Black Carbon and I’m all set. Just avoid Schrade. Schrade stopped being Schrade in 2004. They were bought by another company, which did have some standards but made overseas instead of USA and now another (smith & Wesson Walmart knives basically) bought them. I got 3 in a row that came dull out of the box with chips in the edges. I’d really recommend trying the GPS HK5 or GPS Adventurer. You might love those knives. I’m amazed by them. Made in Ukraine and very affordable. Plus right now supporting really nice people (have talked to them and they are) there with all that’s going on right now is a good thing.
For a convex just a sharpening stone and a strop (even without compound) so that's the same as the other grinds. True there is a difference in grinds and they 'act' different. It's also personal preference and like. When I was young nobody outside of Scandinavia talked about a scandi grind. Now it's a hype and almost a must. It goes with all the labels we put on knives and activities. For a native that lives in the jungle of South America the machete is the bushcraft, survival, camp, food prep knife but WE don't accept that. For us a machete is a chopper at best. One more thing. What if you don't have an ax? I do have them at home but very often not when I travel. A lot of countries don't appreciate you bringing an ax or even won't allow it. This 'don't baton with a knife but use an ax' is a statement of mostly Americans who never travel. That's fine of course. Many people don't travel and don't even have a passport. I'm not one of them. I love to travel. And if the rules of the country I'm visiting only allow one knife I'm fine with a 10 USD Hultafors GK.
Dutch Bushcraft appreciate your thoughts and view. Sharpening a convex with a flat stone requires a skill not shown much,I have a video of the technique but haven’t seen it anywhere else. If a rocking motion isn’t used the convex will become a flat or V grind with time. Good point on the travel not completely against battoning a knife just think it is over used and not necessary in many situations and must be used with common sense, proper knife design and wood selection. Battonning a knife should not be its primary function IMHO. There are so many better tools for that. I prefer my knives to be thinner for slicing ability so they are not the best for splitting wood as a wedge. But as I have said many times this is all personal preference and different situations.
+William Collins. I agree that sharpening a convex is not shown much on youtube. The difference is basically what part is static. In sharpening a scandi, flat, saber or hollow the stone is static. In sharpening a convex the blade is static. I might come across as someone who promotes batoning all the time and selects a knife for that purpose. That's not the case. For the batoning I do, if I even do it, a small thin blade that is properly made is enough. I do test the knives with light batoning before I take them out but often that's the only time they get to endure any batoning. I test them because I'd rather have them break on me at home where I can order a different one than in the bush where the postal services don't deliver. I do see the knife as a very important tool and most of the time is the only cutting tool I carry. It's very rare that I need batoning but it's also very rare that I need an ax or saw. I'm not building a homestead but I'm on the move. If I were building a homestead I would probably bring a chain saw. I don't bring an ax because I don't need it and therefore can save the weight so I'm also not bringing a knife that weighs the same as an ax. I never had a knife break on me in the bush but there's always the possibility of losing your knife so I prefer to bring 2 or 3.
Dutch Bushcraft yep I use a thin blades knife for this video. This is where common sense comes in I spoke about. I do need t recommend this in an emergency situation with you only knife. Because it is a high risk to break. th-cam.com/video/bHKaYeEQyis/w-d-xo.html
Wow. My first time watching you and I already know I'm gonna love your videos. Incredible work.
One of you're best Whittle Talks in my opinion.
Thanks!
The way u Explain things, I find it Impossible not to comprehend
This is exactly the info I was looking for. Your two cents just saved me several dollars.
+BrandonWendt2 Glad I could help.
Good video! One thing I really like about the scandi grind... is that even when it feels dull it still seems to carve wood really well. But I love my little kephart knife with a flat grind too.
You did a very good job explaining the grinds...thank you.
Very well explained. I can stop trying to figure out the differences now!
Always a pleasure to watch your videos William. I always learn something new.
Brad Bahr appreciate your support.
A very good video and comparison between the grinds. Great information. Thanks !
Couldn't agree more with your knife philosophy. Like yourself, I have my favorite knives for different tasks but we all need to put in the time to understand what can and should be done with a certain style of knife.
your video's make me feel like I'm settin right there at the camp fire with you. thanks.
Thanks, glad you could join me at camp.
You're explanation of the reasons for the different grinds makes sense. In simple words that I could understand. Too many people try to sound like a mechanical engineer and dazzle people with technical words. I like the way you say it.
Thanks appreciate your support.
Great talk, I appreciate your incite. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Phil for stopping by and joining our whittle talk.
One of the most genuine people on you tube, who offers fantastic advice based on experience.. 🙏
Thank you!
Great thoughts. Thanks for sharing!!
Great chat! I learned a bit from you again my friend. That hogs tooth blade looks mean as hell! I love the look of it...
Hogs tooth is a bad blade. Like it more and more every time I use it. Appreciate the view and comment.
Great explanations, sound logic...thanks William.
+Bill K. Thank you.
Hi William!... just passing here to tell you I´m subscribed at your channel a couple of days ago and I love it!.. Just great information, great scenes, great knives, fresh concepts, all of it is great!...
Thanks for sharing all this with other People.
Regards from Argentine.
Note: Sorry for my english... lol xD
+zeroa6 Welcome to the channel. Appreciat your support and kind words.
You're English is better than most Americans brother.
Thank you very much!
my grandfather sharpened all his knives convex on a flat piece of wood with very fine sand, dry. and then carton box or lether belt stropping. thanks for all the cool vids ;)
It is a very good grind as I said. I just wonder how it would be for a long term bug out. Carton boxes would eventually wear out. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video and talk sir!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and looking forward to learning more. Subbed :)
Ptoksik Very welcome. Happy to pass on what little I know but I do have many opinions. Appreciate your view and comment.
I find that nothing beats an Opinel's flat grind when taking off material near the tip of the branch. I can get it to bite real deep because I know the cut will run out through the endgrain. Those shoulders on a Scandi act like fulcrums with which you can regulate the depth of a cut. Depending on the wood, they also allow you to create a long split down the grain with a simple twist of the wrist.
Say Heah, You made me realize something, I always said I liked a Saber Grind to work wood with and I probably meant it baton's better that shoulder which I call a relief edge it does split better. But you brought in the light to me and yes a Flat does cut better.
Thanks!
I am partial to the flat grind as well. I am not much for batoning but sometimes I have and been LAZY as well... Thanks for sharing.. ATB Mike
Appreciate your view and support.
Another good one, as usual... in a world of the latest greatest alphabet soup steels and sponsored hucksters, it’s nice to slow down.
Hey brother loved your video really enjoyed watching .. your right about different task for different knife grinds .. love from UK London..
Thanks, appreciate your support.
The uses you have explained make sense. I enjoy hearing your 2 cents on matters like this.
I was watching someones video last week, I can't remember who it was, but they were talking about polishing their blades in circumstances where your buffing agent was gone and he took a piece of quartz crushed and ground and used as powder for a strop or polishing the blades he had. Was pretty interesting. I do love your hogs tooth knife. Drooling. lol
Not a bad idea if you have the quartz. I have lots of sand though that may work. Have to give it a try. Thanks for adding to the whittle talk.
Thanks for showing us. Take care.
Great video thanks, as someone who has rekindled interest in knives it's a real surprise that the Scandinavian grind is everywhere . But it has a faults that you point out very well.
+James Thanks!
Another great video William.
Thanks Jason
Thank you, love your knives.
I really enjoyed your video. If Ihad to get just one tool it probably would have to be one with a full konvex grind. Easy skarpens with circular motions. However. I usually go tool heavy and carry at least two or perhaps even five cutting devices. Med size axe, small folding saw, 22 cm leuku, 10 cm stick tang with small scandi, also perhaps leatherman and filet knife.
Note: like every grind except hollow. Doesn’t like sharpen knives curve frontwise, like kukri.
But own one antique kukri and they kust look awesome.
Like thinner scandi blades. 2-3 mm depending on use.
Great info learned alot
...William...I do enjoy the down-home honesty and common sense opinion...reminds me of when I was growing up in the mid-west as a kid sitting down and talking with the older fellas. Of course I'm now one of those older fellas...(ok a bit older than even you - but who's counting). Yep, I'm a knife guy and carry far too many but I do enjoy having a tool to do the job at hand...and a good 'hawk, hatchet, or ax along with a solid companion knife and the key - the knowledge (which takes practice) to use them - you're good in the outdoors.
All the VERY BEST! as always...
Appreciate your view and thoughts.
Nice whittle talk. Makes me yearn to get out in the woods and whittle on a stick. lol
Excellent video my friend,i'm buying the Enzo trapper knife and I couldn't make my mind up between Scandi and Flat grind,I'll go with your opinion and get the flat grind, just subbed.
William Prendergast welcome to my channel. Appreciate the comment and support.
My fav is a thin convex grind. No shoulders to get caught, but stronger for a given final bevel angle.
I pretty much agree with you..I use my scandi grind when doing carving, but that's all I use it for. All other tasks, I use a saber or full flat. I love my convex grinds, but as you said..if you are building a long term bug out bag, you should probably not throw a convex into it. For just a weekend outing, a convex is fine. But then again, for a long term bug out, I, like you, would probably throw a half dozen knives into my pack...cuz I too am a knife nut, lol. Long term, I would not want to trust just one knife..what if it breaks, or I lose it? Always good to have a backup blade in mho. You just never know what old man Murphy might throw at you.
Great thoughts William . My opinion" it's what ever knife or knives you're comfortable with, that's the one you take with you"
Take care and be well .
I would agre to some extent but consider this what is your knife breaks and you have to use a different knife? I am of the opinion we should use as many different knife styles and grinds as possible so we are comfortable with any knife we have to use. Know its limits and what is will excel at. Appreciate the view and comment.
I am very new to the bushcrafting scene and after buying all the wrong knives I finally found out what works and what doesn't. I totally agree, I don't have any fancy blades yet but I do have a Condor Bushlore I paid a whopping $29 for on ebay, now my go to scandi edc. Another great budget flat grind is a knife by Schrade the Brian Griffin designed SCHF42, ITS 1095HC with a recurve, they also did a straight edge SCHF42d. For whittling and carving my Bushlore beats out my two Mora's the HQ robust and the newer Robust Pro. I can whittle tell my hands give out LOL literally, a nice sharp scandi or flat is perfect for the task.
Appreciate your view and comment.
Respect From the UK wish i had your knowledge
EmoHaterUk2 Thanks, been using knives a long time and lots of different designs as well. Appreciate the view and comment.
great video William! Subed!
tireironman thank you and welcome to the channel.
HA HA briar and will i am right here lol. I agree with you for most people. What makes me a little different is the natural movement on stones the way i sharpen i consistently come out with a scandi vex and found it to be my favorite so i embraced it. I love a flat grind too though used a rat 7 for years and still cut meat in the kitchen with a filet knife its so thin it just glides on through but for all around you know what i like the scandi vex. Which we are knife nerds lol. Talking about apex of the angle and confusing the hell out of everyone. Anyway enjoyed the video brother keep em coming.
I was wondering when you would show up and give us an education on the scandi vex and the benefits of it. LOL!! Glad you joined in brother. Always nice to have you on whittle talk.
Heah, Heah Say Heah Mr. William, Above all, I want to Wish You and Your Family a Happy Easter. I missed you, Nice to see you again. Thanx for sharing your expertise.
+paulie 4x Thanks and to you and yours as well.
Seriously, Nice to see you. I'm almost caught up recoup with my knives. I've been thinking about what I want. See Ya Soon.
+paulie 4x Look forward to it.
Thanx, , ,,
Have to say those were some pretty lookin knives. Do you make and sell them?
Great video
Thank You for the video. I would like to ask, regarding the convex, do You find a difference in long term maintaining an axe (a convex probably) and a convex knife?
Pavol Beluško appreciate your view and comment. Typically the axe steel is harder then the knife so the steel doesn’t wear over time on the axe like the knife will. Other then that no difference.
Say Heah William, I always thought shoulders were called the relief edge ?
excellent and simple explanation of the two grinds...common sense wins every time!
+Ray Holguin Thanks!
cheers for sharing mate, nice spot ya got there too
Love the spot, thanks!
i think i agree with what u aid here. i love convex but sharpening it long term is too difficult but they EXCEL while you do have the means to sharpen them. if i had to go to the woods for months i would grab my old schrade deerslayer and silver stag deer skinner. but as for now my homesteader is my go to knife
Glad the homesteader is still the go to knife. Thanks for joining the whittle talk.
I really like your favorite all around knife with flat grind. Looks almost like a mini khukuri.
+frankgon4 Thank you, it was heavily influenced by the kukuri design. Here is the introduction of this knife. I named it the "Hogstooth". th-cam.com/video/vq9i0CEhKaI/w-d-xo.html
Great video.
+frankgon4 Thanks!
My go to knife, is a bk16. Squared the spine and smoothed the blade coating with some 400 and 600 grit.
Use what works for you I say. Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I enjoyed this as much as any video on youtube
Thank you, appreciate your support.
Appreciate you William
I do more animal processing with my knife than wood carving so I prefer the flat grind, thanks for posting 👍
Generally I like Sabrevex the most. About quarter or third of the blade (depends on steel, width, thickness, length, and priority of purpose) to be 90 degree shoulder from spine, then a very shallow continuous convex bevel to the very edge. That shallow that unskilled eyes see it flat. My strops (in various sizes, models, and loads keep them razor sharp easily)
I said generally and I mean for convenient knives. Common knives. But your knives, typically with those beautiful sophisticated grinds are completely different stories. I prefer them your way.
My priorities for an outdoor knife are 1. Game dressing
2. Butchering
3. Survival capability
4- Food prep
5- wood job
Accordingly 👆🏽
And I have learned when it comes to outdoor knives world, in general, A 5” blade will do anything a 6” blade does, as well. And a 4.75” blade would do anything a 5” blade does, even better. Again for me. Talking about common knives not your ones.
I was going to buy the schrade schf42 but i fiddled around too long trying to compare it to other knives and i waited too long and they stopped production and now I cant find any anywhere
William, you should consider signing on for Forged in Fire! I bet you could win! Most of these blade smiths can't even follow the simple directions/ parameters set forth by the judges... It's really quite sad.
***** Never watched that show. Not much into reality shows, or nothing on TV really. I would rather watch you tube videos or movies on the internet. Appreciate the view and comment.
Hi William, Forged in Fire is basically the same exact concept as the Food Network TV show Chopped, on with blade forging instead of food! I think the prize is $10,000. I know Murray Carter of Carter Cutlery is competing on the show on August 10th. It's on History Channel. If you have some down time, give it a watch, you might like it! 😀
+Dan Schwemin Jr just guessing but if he doesn't watch tv or know what the show you're talking about he probably not gonna be familiar with the Food CHannel show either. Lol
Real awesome blades you made. I've been having fun forging 3/18 5160 steel into skinner small blades. And I use full flat since I see is easier to create and touch up. And if I really need to sharpen my blade in the field. Believe me, flat for choice. Bye
Appreciate your view and comment.
I recently got a Jeff White English Trade Knife. I've been meaning to pick up one of your crooked knives. I really like the Trade Knife, but it has a convex edge. I have some strops, but I was also worried about the problems you mentioned with that grind. I was think maybe I should just re-profile the edge to give it a more defined bevel. I have a 1000/6000 Japanese Water stone. the only grit lower I have is my old Boy Scout sharpening stone, and it is rough. What do you think I should do?
I would not reprofile the edge unless you needed to in a survival situation but if you prefer a flat grind over the convex then those stones will work. It will take a lot of work and time though. Thanks for joining the whittle talk.
I’ve used a flat grind all my life people always tell me that edge is no good I just always tell them to each his own
That´s a very informtaive vid, thank you! What´s your opinion about Tip-strength? If you have to drill some minor holes frequently I´ve got the feeling that the tip of a flat grind knive that is sharpened right to the tip will almost always break on the very end of the tip (to a very little amount, so you almost cannot see but feel it by hand). A scandi won´t. But the "broken" tip of the flat will still penetrate at least as good as the not broken, but quite fat scandi-tip. AmI right? I´d appreciate your opinion, and sorry for my bad english, it is not my first language...
+Wartstein 1 I discuss blade tips in this video. th-cam.com/video/TNAiudWpVqc/w-d-xo.html Also tip strength comes from type of steel and heat treat. Appreciate your view and comment.
Personally I use my knives for slicing. The current craze of splitting logs with knives is insane. 99% of the time you don't even need to split wood for a fire, if you do an axe is always a better tool.
FloEvans agreed!
Imo a knife and a baton is the same as an axe just dissociated into two parts and therefore both safer and more precise than an axe. You put the knife exactly where you want it and then you apply the force. Much more manageable and safe for anyone around compared to swinging an axe around. Oh and I've never broken any knives by batoning, even cheap knives. For felling a tree I can do that with a knife but prefer an axe of course
I've heard this argument for batoning a few times - that it's safer with a knife. Well, over the years I've only ever cut or whatever myself with a knife, never screwed up with an axe. Sorry, but if you think you're gonna hurt yourself with an axe, you don't know how to use it. Big overhead, mindless swings isn't the only way to use an axe. You can baton with an axe too.
@@circedge
Kind of a straw man. I don't think any reasonable person would choose a knife over an axe for heavy duty wood processing. But I also don't think any reasonable person would be carrying an axe in his backpack on a long hike, especially since a reasonable person isn't going to make a fire in the backcountry unless it's absolutely necessary. That person may however have a knife, and in an emergency he can process some firewood with it.
Axes are for your backyard, or for when you're building a campfire twenty feet from your truck bumper.
Don't any of you people hike? Do you just sit in your backyards? An axe is a better tool IF YOU HAVE ONE WITH YOU. But if you get lost while hiking in the mountains, you probably don't have one with you. And so you make due with what you have, which is a knife. If you absolutely need to make a fire to stay warm or to purify drinking water, batonning with a knife is certainly not insane.
awesomeness....
+Pat Colbourne Thanks!
I know this is an old vid but what is that scandi knife? That looks awesome
It is a very old model that is discontinued. However my Woodsman Classic sold through my Alaskan Dealer is close. Www.greatnorthernknives.com
Yo Bro, Happy New Year, ,,, ,,, ,,,
+paulie 4x You too.
The smaller flat grind knife you showed last. Did you make that and if so, what do you charge for the knife? I make my own leather
Sloanirrigation it would be a custom order. Visit my web site for details and unit pricing. Www.wcknives.com
I agree with the opinion about the convex blade. I got a knife that I like hoe it feels in my hand, but, the only complaint I have is the convex grind. I'm redoing the edge into more of a Saber grind. I'm going to get a neck-knife for around camp, but this video changed my mind about a scandi-vex grind. I'll be doing more than whittling and I can see where the Flat grind will work better with what I'll be doing. Thanks.
Appreciate your view and support.
Thanks for the great video. I'm brand new to your channel so forgive me if you've already covered this in another video but how do you sharpen your kukri blade? I've always found the recurve part at the base is just a bitch to sharpen because you cant lay it on a stone. I love that style blade but I'm always hesitant to buy one for the reason of sharpening difficulty.
As with all things once you learn the process it is easy. here is an old video of how I sharpen a kukuri. If you visit my home page my videos are listed in playlist to better find what interest you. Appreciate your support and view. th-cam.com/video/7oG0SYjWwoY/w-d-xo.html
William Collins thank you!
I really like this guy. He just speaks his experience and it just flat out works.
I had to sub.
Thanks, welcome to my channel.
Say Heah William, I study you, I watch your videos over and over as you can see by my many posts. I don't think the grind is as important as it is to have a thinner apex to cut. I bet that all three knives had the similar if not the same apex thickness. and ofcource your ability on handling each knife. I bet if I gave you a knife as a gift. The first thing you would do is reproduce the edge especially thinning the apex, I totally agree with you. I use to think a Bushcraft knife was around a 4" blade, But I feel more comfortable with a longer blade, Simply because a large knife could do what a small knife can but a small knife can't do what a large knife can. I could almost pick up a knife and tell if there's enough weight to beable to chop with it, The bigger the better, the more weight determine that. So my belt/feild/camp knives I like somewhere between 5"-6" and I don't even have to classify those categories. A sharp knife will take care of those categories. and you sort of proved that to me. All those three knives seemed very sharp.
would you recommend a full flat grind as a EDC knife. im looking at a spyderco tenacious but also a hollow point kershaw cryo 2.. i like your videos and opinions so i subscribed!!
+Erik Stevens It could be. Depends on wht you plan to do that day. This may help. th-cam.com/video/ZRPCUVZhbEM/w-d-xo.html
+William Collins (WC Knives) thank you for the fast response!! i plan on lite duty edc... cutting cardboard, rope, food prep, stick carving. etc..
i think from watching some of your videos the full flat grind spyderco tenacios or hollow grind kershaw cryo 2 will work. both of them use 8cr13mov steel and want something easy to resharpen without some crazy elaborate sharpening system, which would be full flat grind? both of these knives are in the $40 range and are folders.
Glad I could help. Appreciate your support.
5:18 And then some people go into the woods and try to fell a tree with it. :^D
I put a fake scandi grind on my Buck Paklite Skinner, which is my EDC knife since 2016. Frankly, the knife is not manufactured for such grind, so what I got is something that can be sharpened like a scandi, but just looks like something that gets step by step thinner and is very thin and also very sharp. Now I can use it effortless for carving though, which was not enjoyable before, because the grind wasn't up for carving and it is just bare metal. I wonder what knife manufaturers would call such grind. Cheers!
Yeah, if I had it to do over, I'd get flat grind on my Woodlore Clone. I like it a lot as it is, but a flat grind would make it perfect. I like the scandi-style on the carver, but kind of wish it had a saber grind.
Just order another knife, problem solved. LOL! Thanks for joining the whittle talk.
Convex=chopping/splitting 2. Flat=slicing/skinning. 3. Scandi= woodworking. 4. Saber = stronger than flat but less slicey. 5. Hollow= best slicer but least tough. 6. Chisel= should be used on an actual chisel as if this ground is put on a knife it is only designed to be used in the left or right hand depending on what side the grind is on. These are just My overall takes on grinds from experience and learning
W.C. knives are definitely top notch !!!!!!
Wouldn't a saber grind be a "perfect" grind having little of both, the flat and the scandi in one package?
Saber is a great grind for sure but for slicing ability the full flat has the advantage. You still have a pinch point at the primary grind apex with a saber. Depends on blade thickness as to how much of a pinch point. Kitchen knives are full flat for a reason. They slice better. Watch my video on slicing in the Whittle Talk playlist it may explain my opinion it a little better.
Enjoyed the video bud...,new subscriber here..👍🏼
Thanks and welcome to the channel.
William Collins
Appreciate it.
Yes, I believe the flat grind is the far superior all around blade, and if you want more meat on the blade for strength, maybe a saber grind.
Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I prefer convex. Best of all worlds...no shoulder, yet thick enough at the apex to hold up to lots of bone touching, knot carving, etc. I can sharpen one with a arkansas stone, but it does take lots of practice and a bellied out stone.
BUT, For a bug out or hunting trip where I'm not gonna have time to sit around and hone a knife for an hour, I'll take a flat grind all day. If the flat ground blade is meaty enough with a large secondary bevel it will hold edge all day and is still easy to touch up.
Now, If you strop the shoulder off of that secondary bevel and make just that part convex...then you're getting into my realm...scandi-vex, flat-vex, hollow-vex...so much fun to play around with this stuff!
Where's Bobby Moody at anyway???
LOL, where is Bobby? He is a huge fan of the scandi-vex. But now we are talking hybrid grinds that knife nerds like us just eat up. Anywho, Do you recall in the movie "Legends of the Fall" where he was sharpening his big bowie knife after his wife was killed? He was sharpening the knife like you would be a convex grind but using a stone. I would need lots of practice to do that. It seams you have made it work. That is so cool. Like I said convex is a good grind. I just haven't figured out the field sharpening yet so I prefer my flats.
Convex seems to sharpen just like any other grind.
if you sharpen a convex edge with a flat hard stone without using a rocking motion then in a short period of time the convex edge will become a V.
have you made an original style nessmuk style knife, no frills just a honest tool ? i love your designs but not fond of the khukri style blade.
have several knives made on the nessmuk style. I have a playlist on my home page dedicated to past work and some of my designs.
I butchered a deer with my Gerber folder. It was better then a larger knife I had. I have thought about the grinds like this. I have wondered about the canvas verses the scandi and found some of the same.
Adventures with Frodo appreciate your view and thoughts.
Just a question. What do you think of a high scandi a regular scandi and a saber and a high saber. Are they similar ?
+paulie 4x This video will help. th-cam.com/video/ZpsZGlpg_80/w-d-xo.html. I would suggest you watch all of my whittle Talk play list. You may find them interesting.
Thanx
I like your thoughts on this. How do you feel about a scandi that is thinner... 3/32" or 7/64"... Or in metric.. 2mm or 2.5mm... Mora's slice quite well but I've honestly never cleaned game with one.
Since you asked....LOL!!! The knife in the video is 1/8". That is the max thickness I would want in a scandi edge knife. Anything over that, IMHO, is to difficult to use even with feather sticks. The blade has to be held at too steep of an angle to miss the shoulders. I have used thinner scandi knives such as the mora but we must remember the scandi edge was first designed in Scandinavia to use on soft woods for carving and butchering. Once we try to use these same knives in our hardwoods we then have problems. The edges roll or chip. The mora is a great carver in soft woods and they excel as a small game skinner. I find that they are lacking in harder woods and if you hit the edge against bone. They have a tendency to chip or roll the edge. This is my opinion and there are exceptions but Mora came out with a thicker blade such as the robust for a reason. If you find a scandi that does not chip or roll in hard wood then treasure it with your life. They are very rare. Thanks for the view, comment, and support.
William Collins thanks for the reply.. I always thought that the strength of an edge is heavily dependent on the apex angle.. Such as convex grinds tend to have a larger angle at the apex, same goes for flat ground with secondary bevels. I think that the apex angle is key (given the heat treat in't a variable). I do agree 100% that the large bevel/shoulder area of scandi knives is a hinderance in slicing.. It's physics... awesome chat! keep up the cool video's!
ThePatriot4freedom
I like the convex as I said in the video and agree with your apex theory. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to maintain a convex long term in the field. This is why I prefer the flat and saber grinds.
you can always grind your scandi's at a larger angle? lol I guess common is some where between 25 - 30 degrees. I would be less reluctant to like flat grinds if I could sharpen them worth a darn... scandi's are so simple
Knives cut things. Yes.
It’s amazing how many think a knife is made to split firewood.
What degree (°) and how thin do you grind a flat grind edge. Do you experience alot of chipping. I understand you like a toothy edge on your wood knives.
+paulie 4x Don't have a chipping issue. Chipping is caused in most cases buy improper use and seldom from heat treat. Also steel selection for intended use is a must when selecting a knife. here is a video explaining my apex philosophy. th-cam.com/video/ixH5hP71zeg/w-d-xo.html
I don't know why most people only use sandpaper/strops to sharpen a convex grind. you can literally use rods, whetstones, diamondplates etc to sharpen a convex in the field longterm. Carbonsteels can easily be maintained that way, a convex on a high alloy stainless PM steel is another story however.
Yep, have a video on how to sharpen a convex with a stone.
What type of knife, is the one flat grinded? Regards
spizaetus this is a very old video and many things have changed. This is the knife but I suggest you visit my website www.wcknives.com for my latest designs or my You Tube home page. th-cam.com/video/vq9i0CEhKaI/w-d-xo.html
Clay rubbed into the back of a leather belt and strapped to a tree will do alot. Also clay is in abundance in some areas.
Or clay worked into a piece of paracord. Better than nothing.
Yes, that will work as well.
Hello, I wanted to ask you based on your experience for bushcraft contelli if the profile scandi or flati is better? Let me know what you think, thanks Michele.
Michele Trekkning scandi is a wood carving and strong batonning blade. Full flat is a slicing and fine wood carving blade not as strong for batonning. Depends on what you consider bushcraft.
What is that kukri style knife you've got, i've got a Shrade "Little Ricky" but it's not a flat grind.
+trigsim This is the knife. th-cam.com/video/vq9i0CEhKaI/w-d-xo.html
+William Collins (WC Knives) I thank you, I'm new to the channel.
+trigsim Welcome to my channel.
No use carrying a Binder out in the Woods. Less resistance during tasks is Safe knife handling any unpredictable behavior Cause's Injury. My Personal Duo is The Kershaw Camp 10" and the Mora Companion Orange. My EDC belt knife. that I always have on me. Is the Bear Gryll's Ultimate Pro. closest I have to an all in one Option is the Selkirk Buck. "Survival/Bush" Knife. LOL
Travonous appreciate your thoughts and view.
Widdel on a stick sound just like my cousin lol
which reminds me of my need for a full flat ground, 3" blade cutter for camp tasks.....probably in 1/8th or 3/32nds O1 (or 1095). I'm using a mora 510 in that role right now....but a flat ground knife would be better...lol
Todd Gibson - Hummm...makes me wonder about re-profliling a Mora 511 to a full flat grind? 😏
Outdoor Dauber bad idea would be very thin and weak. They use the scandi because it allows more strength in a thinner blade. Just knock the shoulders down on the edge of the grind and it'll be closer to what you want, but don't take to much.
Jesse Schmidt - You may be right. Maybe more of a sabre grind than a full flat... haven't gotten around to trying this yet.
How much do you charge for your blades in Canada
These are my current dealers. Northern Woodsman is located in Canada. If you order from my website then outside of US shipping above knife cost is $45.00 added at checkout.
A convex edge can be sharpened anywhere in nature on a rock. Thats how a convex edge came into existence.
The first ever man made edged tools naturally had a convex edge from grinding them against rocks.
Not sure where this confusion about convex edges came from. If you took your scandi or full flat grind knife and survived with it for years on a desert island they would all end up with a convex edge eventually.
Say Heah, I like a scandi for a simple reason, To carve and work wood good, and you need a sharp edge to do that. The Scandi is a much simpler edge than a Convex, infact if you don't know what your doing, you end up with a Flat Grind, Yeah, the knife I'm carrying on this trip, I have my INFI RatManDu, It's a High Saber Flat Grind, and my Back-up is my Stromeng KS 5, it's a Scandi. Even though we came as a group. I still went lite. the INFIManDu I also took my Hultafors Bruks 17" Agdor range Hatchet which I still use your technique axe tapping kindling and my olé faithful Wicked Tough Saw, we only went a State East of us, anyhow, again, Happy New Year.
+paulie 4x Thanks and you too.
Just want to get things straight here as a scandi person: the flat grind has a microbewel on it right? Otherwise that angle is way to low to not break. The scandi grind is flat without a microbewel because you need that flat ro ride on as you are carving to have more control, that is the main reason why scandigrind exist -for slojd work. The flat grind is just as a convex better suited for all around work. But a convex grind does not require a special sharpening system as you mentioned you just need to be damn good at keeping the right angles to make the edge properly rounded on the sharpening stone. Anyway cheers for your input buddy :)
Actually the Scandi has a micro bevel to add strength and the full flat has a secondary bevel at about 22.5 degree angle. The Scandi performing soft wood feathers does excel. However with a proper full flat grind I can actually control the thickness of feathers better. The finer the feathers the easier that will light. I just find the Scandi lacking in other areas in my opinion. For instance the pinch points and the fragile edge. I encourage you to watch more of my videos on slicing test. And whittle talk play list for more testing and why I have this opinion. The Scandi has its place and if it works for you then that is great. Just keep an open mind is all I ask. It isn't my favorite grind is all. I prefer a full flat or a high saber.
Yeah well my scandi has only one bevel and it is perfect for slojdstuff as you can se on my channel, otherwise agree about all you say sir and the scandi is not at all universall only for high performance carving. Thanks
+Mattis Slojd Scandi blades do well at carving. Appreciate your view and comment.
Give me a good Bowie (a real one, quality) and a Mora Bushcraft Black Carbon and I’m all set. Just avoid Schrade. Schrade stopped being Schrade in 2004. They were bought by another company, which did have some standards but made overseas instead of USA and now another (smith & Wesson Walmart knives basically) bought them. I got 3 in a row that came dull out of the box with chips in the edges.
I’d really recommend trying the GPS HK5 or GPS Adventurer. You might love those knives. I’m amazed by them. Made in Ukraine and very affordable. Plus right now supporting really nice people (have talked to them and they are) there with all that’s going on right now is a good thing.
Appreciate your view and suggestions but the brand for me is www.wcknives.com best knives I have ever used.
@@wcknives will check them out
For a convex just a sharpening stone and a strop (even without compound) so that's the same as the other grinds. True there is a difference in grinds and they 'act' different. It's also personal preference and like. When I was young nobody outside of Scandinavia talked about a scandi grind. Now it's a hype and almost a must. It goes with all the labels we put on knives and activities.
For a native that lives in the jungle of South America the machete is the bushcraft, survival, camp, food prep knife but WE don't accept that. For us a machete is a chopper at best.
One more thing. What if you don't have an ax? I do have them at home but very often not when I travel. A lot of countries don't appreciate you bringing an ax or even won't allow it. This 'don't baton with a knife but use an ax' is a statement of mostly Americans who never travel.
That's fine of course. Many people don't travel and don't even have a passport. I'm not one of them. I love to travel. And if the rules of the country I'm visiting only allow one knife I'm fine with a 10 USD Hultafors GK.
Dutch Bushcraft appreciate your thoughts and view. Sharpening a convex with a flat stone requires a skill not shown much,I have a video of the technique but haven’t seen it anywhere else. If a rocking motion isn’t used the convex will become a flat or V grind with time. Good point on the travel not completely against battoning a knife just think it is over used and not necessary in many situations and must be used with common sense, proper knife design and wood selection. Battonning a knife should not be its primary function IMHO. There are so many better tools for that. I prefer my knives to be thinner for slicing ability so they are not the best for splitting wood as a wedge. But as I have said many times this is all personal preference and different situations.
+William Collins. I agree that sharpening a convex is not shown much on youtube. The difference is basically what part is static. In sharpening a scandi, flat, saber or hollow the stone is static. In sharpening a convex the blade is static.
I might come across as someone who promotes batoning all the time and selects a knife for that purpose. That's not the case. For the batoning I do, if I even do it, a small thin blade that is properly made is enough. I do test the knives with light batoning before I take them out but often that's the only time they get to endure any batoning. I test them because I'd rather have them break on me at home where I can order a different one than in the bush where the postal services don't deliver.
I do see the knife as a very important tool and most of the time is the only cutting tool I carry. It's very rare that I need batoning but it's also very rare that I need an ax or saw. I'm not building a homestead but I'm on the move. If I were building a homestead I would probably bring a chain saw. I don't bring an ax because I don't need it and therefore can save the weight so I'm also not bringing a knife that weighs the same as an ax.
I never had a knife break on me in the bush but there's always the possibility of losing your knife so I prefer to bring 2 or 3.
Dutch Bushcraft yep I use a thin blades knife for this video. This is where common sense comes in I spoke about. I do need t recommend this in an emergency situation with you only knife. Because it is a high risk to break. th-cam.com/video/bHKaYeEQyis/w-d-xo.html
I don’t recommend in an emergency situation with a thin bladed knife. High risk of breakage.
Dutch Bushcraft this is my video on sharpening a convex edge with a stone. th-cam.com/video/F7Y9YYxtMlY/w-d-xo.html