Lighter fluid is a brilliant cleaner for guitars as well, cuts through the dirt but also evaporates so it leaves no residue that's always one I go for, excited to see what you got in store for that guitar in future!
Exactly - naptha {lighter fluid} is what you use on the fretboard and whatever else you want use it on. Water and wood are the last things you bring together, water raises the grain.
Note about the "Plywood": While it is correct to call this plywood, it is NOT the same thing as plywood you get at modern lumber stores. This is the same type of laminated maple/mahogany that was used to built PT boats in WW2. Very strong, very tough dense stuff.
A couple quick things: Cleaning dirty guitar wood, use naptha (lighter fluid). Be very careful to keep ignition sources away from it but it works great. GLUE, use Franklin Tightbond....works much better on guitar wood repairs and builds. Clamping, use wood scraps instead of metal.....metal leaves imprints when tight.
Yes, mid sixties Teisco Premier. I am in the process of putting 2 P90's and Tele electronics on mine.....my first electric was a Teisco Delray....1965.....
Throw the old strings away, don't leave them on your bench to get in the way. I have been where you are at. Two bits of advice: don't use water to clean the guitar, naphtha is better. Secondly learn to be patient, clamp the neck for 24 hours never any less time than that.
..spread the crack by increasing the string tension, squirt in glue, loosen the strings and clamp. ..the crack may not even go through the finish into the wood in which case it needs nothing. Stress cracks in old guitars are common and won't effect playability.
This looks like a single pickup version of my Teisco Vision guitar. A Google image search will show you what the original scratch plate would have looked like
A Fender Mustang bridge will fit on some of these old guitars and give you the ability to intonate the guitar. I would wager your low E will be quite sharp at the 12th fret with that bridge .
I have an old Teisco with that hardware, the intonation is actually really good, go figure, I'm aware I may be lucky, it's probably more accident than design.
Also when you add water your forcing the wood to swell. Works great for divets. Use a rag and slap the shit out of the wood to remove the dust. Or a compressed air gun
You young guys have no idea of the conditions of the 1960s and guitar and accessory availability. There were no string gauges, even at music shops. Not even a light/medium/heavy choice. You got Black Diamonds and they were 15-58 by todays standards. You also did not change strings every two weeks. Strings cost $5 a set and that equals $50 in today's money. (minimum wage was $1.50/hr) You used them until they rusted off or broke and music shops sold single replacement strings individually. That is why they were tied onto those tuner pegs, that and it kept them from slipping. These were the guitars of the garage bands of the '60s, not Fenders and Gibsons.
I have an old Teisco, it's really has that noisy microphonic dirty jangly sound. It has great garage velvets vibes to the sound. I alternate between sell it and build a bridge pup only tele franked and keep it.
It was less of a 'which strings' and more of a 'What modern strings would match what this guitar was built for'. I know very well how much things have changed. I've done a decent bit of research on things, but of course I can't know/remember everything. It was more of trying to find what suited this instrument since the neck couldn't handle any of the steel core strings I've had on it. Even with truss nearly maxed out. I've opted for something less 'standard' for this one.
replacement strings at $1 each and you studied the picks for an hour before picking the proper ones at 3@$1! Those were the days of $1.50 an hour minimum wage.@@flamingseven8447
STOCKYARD GUITARS, please tell me how restring a 1960’s Kingston Kawai Teisco Single Pickup Guitar Japan Bowed Neck I don't know how because it is my first electric guitar and it has metal protection on its bottom likes yours
If it has the same tail piece as mine, the ball ends actually go under/inside, and lock into these 'claws', and once tight, they stay there quite well.
I had filmed the next two portions of the project, but I had a major harddrive failure and lost all the footage, so I'll have to do an Ater-Finish video. I made a lot of decisions, which have result it in being a very different instrument, but it one I've very happy with so far!
In my opinion, it is a Czech JOLANA guitar, one of the very early versions. The Czechs created good instruments, but they had to circumvent Western patents on bridges and tailpieces.
Easier to fix the crack with body filler and hardener. 10:1 ratio (body filler 10, harder 1). Dries with in 30 sec. Gotta mix and spread it quick, then sand with Heavy grit then finish with 120-220grit. Higher grit for best polish, but youll need to sand the whole guitar to match the colour if your picky
I would throw all that hardware into a bag and make it case candy. It serves no purpose in 2024. Body needs a cool refin, something that pops. These guitars were junk new. Teisco EG-1
So you think it might be valuable, yet you're going to butcher it, by installing a humbucker. Duh! Best to do a lot more research, before dragging out the trusty router. You can buy a remarkable amount of spares from dozens of manufacturers in Japan, open your eyes and look, before you leap.
While I get your point, and would be inclined to agree with the sentiment if the intention was to restore it to factory spec... that's not what he said. He didn't say or imply that he thought it might be valuable, he said: " _I don't know_ if it's necessarily a valuable thing, but it's valuable _to me_ " ...indicating that he is working on it for his own use, and talking about configuring it how he likes for his playing/tuning style.
![[Full Episode] MasterChef Junior Thailand มาสเตอร์เชฟ จูเนียร์ ประเทศไทย Season 3 Episode 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qs5zdBqLn_8/mqdefault.jpg)
Lighter fluid is a brilliant cleaner for guitars as well, cuts through the dirt but also evaporates so it leaves no residue that's always one I go for, excited to see what you got in store for that guitar in future!
Exactly - naptha {lighter fluid} is what you use on the fretboard and whatever else you want use it on. Water and wood are the last things you bring together, water raises the grain.
Note about the "Plywood": While it is correct to call this plywood, it is NOT the same thing as plywood you get at modern lumber stores. This is the same type of laminated maple/mahogany that was used to built PT boats in WW2. Very strong, very tough dense stuff.
A couple quick things: Cleaning dirty guitar wood, use naptha (lighter fluid). Be very careful to keep ignition sources away from it but it works great. GLUE, use Franklin Tightbond....works much better on guitar wood repairs and builds. Clamping, use wood scraps instead of metal.....metal leaves imprints when tight.
Teisco EG1.1960’s red sunburst.it’s missing a badge on the head stock.it’s called a adjustable fix bridge
god.
Yes, mid sixties Teisco Premier. I am in the process of putting 2 P90's and Tele electronics on mine.....my first electric was a Teisco Delray....1965.....
Be sure to paint all cavities with conductive paint and ground everything properly.....otherwise you'll end up with a feed-back machine.....
Throw the old strings away, don't leave them on your bench to get in the way. I have been where you are at. Two bits of advice: don't use water to clean the guitar, naphtha is better. Secondly learn to be patient, clamp the neck for 24 hours never any less time than that.
That’s a tight spot to work in.
Don’t glue your hair……
..spread the crack by increasing the string tension, squirt in glue, loosen the strings and clamp. ..the crack may not even go through the finish into the wood in which case it needs nothing. Stress cracks in old guitars are common and won't effect playability.
This was a near headstock break. I looked into a bunch between shots in the video.
This looks like a single pickup version of my Teisco Vision guitar. A Google image search will show you what the original scratch plate would have looked like
A Fender Mustang bridge will fit on some of these old guitars and give you the ability to intonate the guitar. I would wager your low E will be quite sharp at the 12th fret with that bridge .
It's tempting for sure, but I'm trying to keep it original. It's more of a collectors item for me, that I might make some for-fun music with.
I have an old Teisco with that hardware, the intonation is actually really good, go figure, I'm aware I may be lucky, it's probably more accident than design.
I have this guitar. Found in my grandparents attic in the early 80's. The headstock says telestar.
Also when you add water your forcing the wood to swell. Works great for divets. Use a rag and slap the shit out of the wood to remove the dust. Or a compressed air gun
You young guys have no idea of the conditions of the 1960s and guitar and accessory availability. There were no string gauges, even at music shops. Not even a light/medium/heavy choice. You got Black Diamonds and they were 15-58 by todays standards. You also did not change strings every two weeks. Strings cost $5 a set and that equals $50 in today's money. (minimum wage was $1.50/hr) You used them until they rusted off or broke and music shops sold single replacement strings individually. That is why they were tied onto those tuner pegs, that and it kept them from slipping.
These were the guitars of the garage bands of the '60s, not Fenders and Gibsons.
I have an old Teisco, it's really has that noisy microphonic dirty jangly sound. It has great garage velvets vibes to the sound. I alternate between sell it and build a bridge pup only tele franked and keep it.
It was less of a 'which strings' and more of a 'What modern strings would match what this guitar was built for'. I know very well how much things have changed. I've done a decent bit of research on things, but of course I can't know/remember everything. It was more of trying to find what suited this instrument since the neck couldn't handle any of the steel core strings I've had on it. Even with truss nearly maxed out. I've opted for something less 'standard' for this one.
Black Diamond correct and maybe 2or 3 picks at a time
replacement strings at $1 each and you studied the picks for an hour before picking the proper ones at 3@$1! Those were the days of $1.50 an hour minimum wage.@@flamingseven8447
is there a part 2?
The EHX sticker was pretty cool.
Harmony used all these same parts all the way to the early 80's when they were making guitars for the catalogues for Sears and Montgomery Ward.
STOCKYARD GUITARS, please tell me how restring a 1960’s Kingston Kawai Teisco Single Pickup Guitar Japan Bowed Neck I don't know how because it is my first electric guitar and it has metal protection on its bottom likes yours
If it has the same tail piece as mine, the ball ends actually go under/inside, and lock into these 'claws', and once tight, they stay there quite well.
I used gorilla glue on my DIY Les Paul build neck joint and it's still fine after 2 years
old kay guitar had a few
A P90 pickup would be awesome
I'd love to get my hands on one for this, but I worry my EMF-RIdden studio would make one of those scream. Haha.
..I hope you don't refinish it, because that old finish is Beautiful.
I would never. I want it to look as era correct as possible.
Next video?
I had filmed the next two portions of the project, but I had a major harddrive failure and lost all the footage, so I'll have to do an Ater-Finish video. I made a lot of decisions, which have result it in being a very different instrument, but it one I've very happy with so far!
Kawai 60s
In my opinion, it is a Czech JOLANA guitar, one of the very early versions. The Czechs created good instruments, but they had to circumvent Western patents on bridges and tailpieces.
Easier to fix the crack with body filler and hardener. 10:1 ratio (body filler 10, harder 1). Dries with in 30 sec. Gotta mix and spread it quick, then sand with Heavy grit then finish with 120-220grit. Higher grit for best polish, but youll need to sand the whole guitar to match the colour if your picky
When you say body filler and hardener, are you referring to bondo? Would that work better on a neck crack than glue?
Aside from pulling the clamps off early he did fine. Body filler is…a filler, not an adhesive. Poor choice for this application.
I would throw all that hardware into a bag and make it case candy.
It serves no purpose in 2024.
Body needs a cool refin, something that pops.
These guitars were junk new.
Teisco EG-1
So you think it might be valuable, yet you're going to butcher it, by installing a humbucker. Duh! Best to do a lot more research, before dragging out the trusty router. You can buy a remarkable amount of spares from dozens of manufacturers in Japan, open your eyes and look, before you leap.
While I get your point, and would be inclined to agree with the sentiment if the intention was to restore it to factory spec... that's not what he said.
He didn't say or imply that he thought it might be valuable, he said:
" _I don't know_ if it's necessarily a valuable thing, but it's valuable _to me_ " ...indicating that he is working on it for his own use, and talking about configuring it how he likes for his playing/tuning style.