Was leaving the plow there so you didn’t have to haul it back and forth an excuse to get free service work! Maybe that will work with Jon and the HD5.😂
@@oldamericaniron5767, yeah, I thought for sure Squatch would fabricobble a new cross bar so that the plow frame would connect at 3 points as it was designed to do. Then he could have punched the holes for that JD hitch to align with the plow points and the drawbar. But it turned to be good enough for who it’s for. 😉
I don’t know why you don’t have millions of subscribers! Absolutely love your attention to detail on the old Timey equipment . Perhaps a lost art. Keep up the good work.
I had no idea about the adjustments either, other than raising/lowering the levers when starting a new furrow. I've run a plow maybe 600-800 hours as a teenager but apparently the setup was "good enough". 5 minutes instruction and they let me go to it.
Our D2 would only handle a 3-16 plow uphill plowing deep in hard gumbo back in the 50's wheat ground in NCKS. Plowing hundreds of acres, it seemed we would never get done in spite of a couple other tractors in the same field(s). Neat video, Toby!!!!!
No word of a lie, you and your dad are wonderful people. Always willing to help someone who needs your help even if they didn't ask for it. In this troubled times the world really needs more people like you.
My grandfather farmed in south central Kansas. He had a late 30’s D2 and a late 40’s or early 50’s D2 that he used to pull 4 bottom J I Case 16” plows. My self being a 7-8 yr old kid he would make the first round on a full section of land. Then I got drive the tractor. No hydraulic just a trip which which was used on every corner then turn a short circle to the right to make a left hand turn. For me at that young age I had to turn around and get on my knees on the seat to pull the trip rope every time. As I remember pulling the plow in 4th gear I could almost spit across what got plowed the first day. I was not big enough to rope start the pony motor the first couple of yrs. Then later I would wrap the 1/4 “ sash cord around the pulley then stand on the track with bent legs fall backwards off the track and straighten my legs to start the pony motor. Fond memories.
I live about 2000ft up on a mountain side in the Sierras... I have nothing flat to be plowed but being a retired engineer I find the inner workings of something completely mechanical, built decades ago and activated/deactivated with a pull string to be utterly fascinating. Thanks Toby. I know the D2 is not fully completed, but you should look into a post steam digger of some sort.
That’s awesome it pulled it really well just lugs right along I remember dad plowing with his ih 806 such a big difference between that and this lol thanks for sharing
You are setting your plow to pull from the center of cut. It should be set to pull from the center of draft to be correct. To find the center of draft you add 3/4 of the width of the first bottom and 1/2 the width of each succeeding bottom. I will try to send a picture from an older farm mechanics text book. I especially enjoy your metal work and making whatever it takes to get a job done. Thanks for all your hard work.
Wow! Great job adjusting the plow for your buddy Kyle! I think he will really appreciate what you’ve done for him! Is also great to see you guy’s helping each other’s out! You adjust his equipment and he letting you use it! Love your Dads D2! It looks like is running and purring like a kitten!
Toby, The draft point on each bottom is 3 inches up from the top of the share edge and 3 inches to the right of the shin towards the moldboard. This also helps to calculate the drawn height of the drawbar ,pivot and draft point to all bee in aline . this all comes from an Oliver plow manual. Good luck and not bad plowing in sod with a Moline bottom!
HELLO from las Vegas Nevada Thank you for the video a lot of information, thank you GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY GOD BLESS THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Hee-Haa! So good to hear and see the D2 barking ahead of the Moline plough, I grew up on a wheat farm here in the Western Cape, South Africa. We had a D2 5U pull a 4 bottom JD disc plow, but not quite managing to keep up with the D4's( 6U and 5T) pulling the 6 bottom JD disc plows.
Enjoyed that video thank you 👍 I plough with 3point hydraulic lift vintage plough and was interesting to see how the drawbar adjustment was made as I might be have a go with a trailer plough 🤔 great video 👌
I know a few others that save these old equitment but more in the powered stuff like Matt "Diesel Creek" & Mike "Dirt Perfect" or Chris "Lets Dig 18" Are all owners of the old stuff !
I keep on learnin'! Great video and explanation as to how and why adjustments are made! I enjoy your no-nonsense approach. Seems like the bolts through the lift wheel did the trick. I didn't think they were big enough to make much difference. Probably in earth more moist than this, they might not be as effective. Then I guess you could go to 3'-5" "L" brackets (angle iron) and that would do it. Just a guess... Thanks so much! Stay well and stay safe!
Back in the late 50s when all the guys in the neighborhood were moving up to 3 bottom plows our neighbors went out and bought a 4 bottom for their D2. They always had to be a little bit bigger than everybody else.
you can pull 4 furrows just narrow the cut thickness of each furrow looks good 3 wide furrows = 4 narrow ones was he showing of ll bet he plowed same amount as you chaps acres covered matters sounds like he was a great big cheat
Plow days get to be very hectic as a host... And as a videographer/photographer. I spend a LOT of time chasing tractors, getting still shots, moving cameras on equipment, and then trying to get a couple rounds in myself... I know exactly what you mean.... Now, I just have to get time to make it with the H to a SQUATCH plow day!
Mr. Squatch253, you sure know a lot about a great variety of kinds of machines. With regard to using Anti-Seize, I use the stuff but by the second bolt I start to look like the Tin Man.
@@squatch253 thanks for the explanation! Makes sense, as an electrician day/machinist night I can see that it's all about efficiency.... My 60 hp Ford 4630 wouldn't pull that plow. I think hp ratings are off nowadays. Anyway thanks for being my go to channel and cheers friend
Glad to see that a D2 will do 4 bottoms as advertised but here’s the real question - In 2nd gear at full governed load top speed is 2.5 mph, in 4th gear it’s 3.6 mph. What is more productive? 3 bottoms at 3.6 mph or 4 bottoms at 2.5 mph? What set up would a guy cover more ground I wonder, and I suppose the size of the field would play a factor also 🤔 there is probably a formula to figure this out for plowing but I don’t have it haha….maybe good discussion for a future video.
In farming everything is worked out in hectares and hour Or ac/hr for Americans You just work off the implementation width x the distance travelled I'm not doing it in medieval measurements cause I live in the 21st century but say it's 1metre wide you need to travel 1000 metres (1km) to do 1 hectre so 1kph at 1metre wide is 1ha/ha Or 2m wide it'll be doing a ha every 500m forward so 1km/h is 2ha/hr Pretty simple to work out Modern tractors give you this as a live reading on your gps screen You have to take into the Max implement speed as well, can't very well plot at 100kph can we Thats where different operations like discs come in Discs cab do the same job as tynes in some operations but they have a higher speed so you cab get more done while running the same tractor and a narrower width
With a three bottom plow, you'd have to 4 passes for every 3 you made with a 4 bottom plow to cover the same area. So you'd have to plow at 33% faster with the 3 bottom plow, which would be 3.3 mph. So with your assumptions, you'd plow more with with a 3 bottom plow. However, you're assuming that you would be able to go full governed speed while plowing, which may not be a valid assumption. Alos, that's just plow in the dirt time, it doesn't account for turnarounds. the 4 bottom rig would be only doing 3/4 as many turns at the ends, so there's a savings there.
A plowing match master told us at a county match , that a rubber tired tractors drive tire needs to be width of forrow plus 14" to in side of rear tire. The pull from center of plow. The depth of rear forrow should be 1"= 2" deeper so plow pulls straight and level side to side, front to back . If front forrow is to deep it will shove tail of plow around to unplowed ground or out of ground. Always plow level ! Coulters not set the same can make forrows look unlevel also. Plowing speed should be kept under 4=5 MPH , going over this speed just throughs dirt so you might as well have pigs rooting in the field.
hey squatch thanks for the videos! on that crusher i understand its gonna sit time is what it is lol but im thinking round about mid feburary things should be at there coldest... go stand on a spoke then and see if its still seized,,,,, it should be a good indicator of how much of a fight itll be.
That low fuel pressure d2 does really well .when working the fuel pressure is about half of what it should be. When you get her all turned up it will make a awesome d2 dozer and à plow d2.
Having said all that, it is sometimes necessary to split the difference between the center line of the tractor pull and the center of draft of the plow. I would be happy to send pictures from an old text book on plows, but I can't see how to do that. I also have an original JD Directions for the 51 and 52 plows from 12/41. It was my Grandfather's I believe. If you have an interest I would send it to you as a gift. Thanks again!
In Pennsylvania, some of the Amish farmers have put uhmw plastic, like the dump truck folks use for bed liners, on their plow shares to make it easier on their horses. I don’t know what percentage improvement in efficiency this yields, but it would be worth looking into. One plow or fifty plows, if you can make them easier to pull, you’re money ahead. Thanks for the interesting videos and take care.
Great job getting that plow back in shape Squach, it looks good in the ground. Gotta wonder though......With all the different plow hitch types that you have worked with, which style works the best? I always get annoyed by IH's coming unhitched while traveling over rough ground, for example.
While grease works for an anti rust/seize Have you heard of a product called Rescue steel, Its fantastic stuff. I have seen nuts that are half rusted away and they have still undone, Its used alot on fishing boats that go to sea and used on the cables of suspension bridges. The old stuff used to have red lead in it but newer stuff still seems to work well
The Plow drawbar is set too high on the plow, you need some drop links. The dead furrow is under cut a little, the skeath (Disk) needs a little adjustment for a clean vertical cut. Thank you for posting, very interesting video.
I have the same plow in a 3 bottom, that had the original hitch on it. I also changed mine out to a JD hitch. Reason being, the hitch just had a loop on it. (Like a clevis) the drawbar side had the breakaway on it. And I have yet to see a factory MM breakaway hitch. (Except on the web) Unobtanium! Still have the right, proper and correct hitch for the MM plow. Maybe have to make a drawbar mount breakaway hitch…
I did some research. That plow should have had the large loop with the bolt on plow hitch mounted on the draw bar. I have concluded Dad's MM plow had a Case hitch. Evidently it was common to change hitches on Moline plows. Thank you.
I have one (with the loop hitch) and changed the hitch out as well, the breakaway that comes with the MM plow mounts on the drawbar. Most seem to have been lost.
You did the first proper step, throw the bolt on the ground. But points off for the dirt not being Muddy or powder like to really stick in all the threads. Also you didn't drop it again after greasing it up, just plain bad form. Still though, very nice seeing old iron still making the business. Even if it's not as hard run as it used to be.
Did you think of using a c spanneron the spring. I use them on bulldog tractor govenor springs all the time .I've seen people heat and totally ruin springs for no reason.
I'm curious, why you don't keep the tractor draw bar free to move? We have similar plows here, but not identical, the draw bar is normally anguled and not straight. Thank you.
@@squatch253 Dang. Well, please show us the result of the discing when you're back over there next time. I'd like to see how the disc lays out those upturned rows. I can only imagine the forethought and bother you go to in order to video everything. I have a hard enough time just getting my work done without documenting it. Thanks again.
Another thing to consider on plow size is trash flow bigger bottoms allow more material to flow through but that said in high clay soils they also create large slabs that can be difficult to break up.
Plow days, as I have observed them to become, are all about speed. Guys wanna go rippin' 'cross the field and get back to the next pass. "Look at me! My tractor is so powerful that it can pull this plow really fast!" That's a big part of the reason everyone shows up with one- maybe two- fewer bottoms than their tractor would have pulled originally. Nothing wrong with that, but BITD, guys just drove a lot slower. We pulled 3-14s with a JD 70 in 2nd gear. Maybe our soil was tough, maybe we plowed deeper, maybe our tractor was a wimp, but that's what we did. 4-14s with an IH W9, same plow on a Farmall 400 (don't remember what gear).
@@kevintheilen9643 Thanks for clarifying the reason these men hauled their equipment so far to turn sod. I originally thought they did so out of great respect for Squatch and the comradery plus to share their proudly restored equipment with like minded good friends but now I know I was wrong. It was a "Big Boy Show and Tell" and I wish I had been there to shake their hands.
Dropping the greased bolt is the original version of thread locker. Not to be confused with seized threads, the greasy dirt just increases the coefficient of friction.
I was totally going to put bolts in the wheel for plow day but figured I would catch hell for being crude 🤣
@@squatch253 🤣
@@squatch253 😁
Was leaving the plow there so you didn’t have to haul it back and forth an excuse to get free service work! Maybe that will work with Jon and the HD5.😂
@@oldamericaniron5767, yeah, I thought for sure Squatch would fabricobble a new cross bar so that the plow frame would connect at 3 points as it was designed to do. Then he could have punched the holes for that JD hitch to align with the plow points and the drawbar. But it turned to be good enough for who it’s for. 😉
@@squatch253 hey sqautch do you what a used old d10 catipillar blade costs
I don’t know why you don’t have millions of subscribers! Absolutely love your attention to detail on the old Timey equipment . Perhaps a lost art. Keep up the good work.
It's his calm demeanor (not knocking em) he just has drama free, no click bait and no politics. What's not to like?
gotta love those big yellow gloves...my dad would wear them until the palms wore out, then flip them and put 'em back on!
Having never ran a plow, I didn't realize there were so many adjustments.
Appreciate your indepth adjustment explanation.
I had no idea about the adjustments either, other than raising/lowering the levers when starting a new furrow. I've run a plow maybe 600-800 hours as a teenager but apparently the setup was "good enough". 5 minutes instruction and they let me go to it.
the d2 pulls the plow really nice it's nice that you can fix the plow up for Kyle the wheel studs are a nice addition to the lift wheel
Love the sound of the plow and tractor plowing.
Our D2 would only handle a 3-16 plow uphill plowing deep in hard gumbo back in the 50's wheat ground in NCKS. Plowing hundreds of acres, it seemed we would never get done in spite of a couple other tractors in the same field(s). Neat video, Toby!!!!!
That was some excellent precision crescent wrench work you did there. Very nice!
You know its good stuff when you see square head bolts.
Crescent Wrench = Swedish Nut Lathe (~AvE)
I love the ones I have with the "hammer" as part of the casting.
@@ramosel The thumb-detecting variety!
@@squatch253 As Matt (Diesel Creek) says… "Anything's a hammer if you use it wrong enough!"😁
I like to park some of my stuff on you field if it comes back all adjusted up, that’s a good deal! LOL
I spent some time in the 60s and 70s with a D2 and 4x IH plow. It was slow, but extremely dependable.
That old d2 does a good job, I think!
No word of a lie, you and your dad are wonderful people. Always willing to help someone who needs your help even if they didn't ask for it. In this troubled times the world really needs more people like you.
My grandfather farmed in south central Kansas. He had a late 30’s D2 and a late 40’s or early 50’s D2 that he used to pull 4 bottom J I Case 16” plows. My self being a 7-8 yr old kid he would make the first round on a full section of land. Then I got drive the tractor. No hydraulic just a trip which which was used on every corner then turn a short circle to the right to make a left hand turn. For me at that young age I had to turn around and get on my knees on the seat to pull the trip rope every time. As I remember pulling the plow in 4th gear I could almost spit across what got plowed the first day. I was not big enough to rope start the pony motor the first couple of yrs. Then later I would wrap the 1/4 “ sash cord around the pulley then stand on the track with bent legs fall backwards off the track and straighten my legs to start the pony motor. Fond memories.
same hear following grandad i was 10 1956
I live about 2000ft up on a mountain side in the Sierras... I have nothing flat to be plowed but being a retired engineer I find the inner workings of something completely mechanical, built decades ago and activated/deactivated with a pull string to be utterly fascinating. Thanks Toby.
I know the D2 is not fully completed, but you should look into a post steam digger of some sort.
Make it flat 👀
78yr retired miner farm boy. Retired above the Salmonriver at White Bird, Idaho. Like you, no flat ground. Working on a small spot of rolling rock.
The familiar sounds and visuals are so good, I swear I can smell the freshly turned soil. Nice work.
That’s awesome it pulled it really well just lugs right along I remember dad plowing with his ih 806 such a big difference between that and this lol thanks for sharing
You are setting your plow to pull from the center of cut. It should be set to pull from the center of draft to be correct. To find the center of draft you add 3/4 of the width of the first bottom and 1/2 the width of each succeeding bottom. I will try to send a picture from an older farm mechanics text book. I especially enjoy your metal work and making whatever it takes to get a job done. Thanks for all your hard work.
fantastic ploughing after setting the drawbar properly. so enjoyable thank you!
Enjoyed the video! It was making the D2 bark for sure.
It’s always fun to see you getting a plow fine tuned and ready to go. Kyle will be happy!
Love that Moline blow. Kyle will be super happy that you fixed the issues for him. No shame in using grease on blow bolts better that than nothing.
Wow! Great job adjusting the plow for your buddy Kyle! I think he will really appreciate what you’ve done for him! Is also great to see you guy’s helping each other’s out! You adjust his equipment and he letting you use it! Love your Dads D2! It looks like is running and purring like a kitten!
Toby, The draft point on each bottom is 3 inches up from the top of the share edge and 3 inches to the right of the shin towards the moldboard. This also helps to calculate the drawn height of the drawbar ,pivot and draft point to all bee in aline . this all comes from an Oliver plow manual. Good luck and not bad plowing in sod with a Moline bottom!
Nice you got plow fix right. Have a great day be safe.
HELLO from las Vegas Nevada
Thank you for the video a lot of information, thank you
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
GOD BLESS THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
We met today! I pulled up your channel and my husband was jealous I met you! He’s been watching your videos for a while now! Keep up the good work!
Nice work, Kyle will be pleased.
Man, I like what I c Toby! Sweet music 2 the ears 2.😊🤙
A smooth trip wheel, yes can be a headache.
Hee-Haa! So good to hear and see the D2 barking ahead of the Moline plough, I grew up on a wheat farm here in the Western Cape, South Africa. We had a D2 5U pull a 4 bottom JD disc plow, but not quite managing to keep up with the D4's( 6U and 5T) pulling the 6 bottom JD disc plows.
Love watching your videos, great job!
Enjoyed that video thank you 👍 I plough with 3point hydraulic lift vintage plough and was interesting to see how the drawbar adjustment was made as I might be have a go with a trailer plough 🤔 great video 👌
Toby, I dig your videos. I hope to be there for plow day next year.
Great video Squatch
I know a few others that save these old equitment but more in the powered stuff like Matt "Diesel Creek" & Mike "Dirt Perfect" or Chris "Lets Dig 18" Are all owners of the old stuff !
I keep on learnin'! Great video and explanation as to how and why adjustments are made! I enjoy your no-nonsense approach. Seems like the bolts through the lift wheel did the trick. I didn't think they were big enough to make much difference. Probably in earth more moist than this, they might not be as effective. Then I guess you could go to 3'-5" "L" brackets (angle iron) and that would do it. Just a guess... Thanks so much! Stay well and stay safe!
Hay squat h happy thanksgiving enjoy your channel keep up the good work really enjoy your channel
That would have been cool to see that plow behind that your Catapiller Rd 6.
Back in the late 50s when all the guys in the neighborhood were moving up to 3 bottom plows our neighbors went out and bought a 4 bottom for their D2. They always had to be a little bit bigger than everybody else.
Nothing has changed 😊.
you can pull 4 furrows
just narrow the cut thickness of each furrow
looks good
3 wide furrows = 4 narrow ones
was he showing of ll bet he plowed same amount as you chaps
acres covered matters sounds like he was a great big cheat
Plow days get to be very hectic as a host... And as a videographer/photographer. I spend a LOT of time chasing tractors, getting still shots, moving cameras on equipment, and then trying to get a couple rounds in myself... I know exactly what you mean.... Now, I just have to get time to make it with the H to a SQUATCH plow day!
I certainly am enjoying your channel between making TH-cam videos and watching TH-cam videos yours is one of my look forward to videos. Kimber Zelik
Mr. Squatch253, you sure know a lot about a great variety of kinds of machines. With regard to using Anti-Seize, I use the stuff but by the second bolt I start to look like the Tin Man.
It amazes me how powerful the D2 is.. Awesome
@@squatch253 thanks for the explanation! Makes sense, as an electrician day/machinist night I can see that it's all about efficiency.... My 60 hp Ford 4630 wouldn't pull that plow. I think hp ratings are off nowadays. Anyway thanks for being my go to channel and cheers friend
Amazing how iron that age still can put in a full days work! Well done, I bet that smells great out there too!
I get it. Nobody, not even the host, wants to have to work at a party! Keep up the good work.
Sweet man. Looks like fun....
Glad to see that a D2 will do 4 bottoms as advertised but here’s the real question - In 2nd gear at full governed load top speed is 2.5 mph, in 4th gear it’s 3.6 mph. What is more productive? 3 bottoms at 3.6 mph or 4 bottoms at 2.5 mph? What set up would a guy cover more ground I wonder, and I suppose the size of the field would play a factor also 🤔 there is probably a formula to figure this out for plowing but I don’t have it haha….maybe good discussion for a future video.
Rick Bork with a 2 bottom and a Super C set to 150% onions will out plow everyone.
In farming everything is worked out in hectares and hour
Or ac/hr for Americans
You just work off the implementation width x the distance travelled
I'm not doing it in medieval measurements cause I live in the 21st century but say it's 1metre wide you need to travel 1000 metres (1km) to do 1 hectre so 1kph at 1metre wide is 1ha/ha
Or 2m wide it'll be doing a ha every 500m forward so 1km/h is 2ha/hr
Pretty simple to work out
Modern tractors give you this as a live reading on your gps screen
You have to take into the Max implement speed as well, can't very well plot at 100kph can we
Thats where different operations like discs come in
Discs cab do the same job as tynes in some operations but they have a higher speed so you cab get more done while running the same tractor and a narrower width
With a three bottom plow, you'd have to 4 passes for every 3 you made with a 4 bottom plow to cover the same area. So you'd have to plow at 33% faster with the 3 bottom plow, which would be 3.3 mph. So with your assumptions, you'd plow more with with a 3 bottom plow. However, you're assuming that you would be able to go full governed speed while plowing, which may not be a valid assumption. Alos, that's just plow in the dirt time, it doesn't account for turnarounds. the 4 bottom rig would be only doing 3/4 as many turns at the ends, so there's a savings there.
A plowing match master told us at a county match , that a rubber tired tractors drive tire needs to be width of forrow plus 14" to in side of rear tire. The pull from center of plow. The depth of rear forrow should be 1"= 2" deeper so plow pulls straight and level side to side, front to back . If front forrow is to deep it will shove tail of plow around to unplowed ground or out of ground. Always plow level ! Coulters not set the same can make forrows look unlevel also. Plowing speed should be kept under 4=5 MPH , going over this speed just throughs dirt so you might as well have pigs rooting in the field.
Looks real good
hey squatch thanks for the videos! on that crusher i understand its gonna sit time is what it is lol but im thinking round about mid feburary things should be at there coldest... go stand on a spoke then and see if its still seized,,,,, it should be a good indicator of how much of a fight itll be.
That low fuel pressure d2 does really well .when working the fuel pressure is about half of what it should be. When you get her all turned up it will make a awesome d2 dozer and à plow d2.
We had a M/M 4/16 plow back on the farm in Anoka. We used the 4-16 JD
My dad used his D2 in the early '50s to
pull discs and cultivators in his orange groves.
We had light sandy soil and my dad pulled 5 / 14 case plow in 3rd gear with his D2 and had a Massey Harris 44 pulling4 /14 in Second gear
That 4 bottom is surely making that little guy work.
Look like Sr d2 is running pretty good 👍
Having said all that, it is sometimes necessary to split the difference between the center line of the tractor pull and the center of draft of the plow. I would be happy to send pictures from an old text book on plows, but I can't see how to do that. I also have an original JD Directions for the 51 and 52 plows from 12/41. It was my Grandfather's I believe. If you have an interest I would send it to you as a gift. Thanks again!
In Pennsylvania, some of the Amish farmers have put uhmw plastic, like the dump truck folks use for bed liners, on their plow shares to make it easier on their horses. I don’t know what percentage improvement in efficiency this yields, but it would be worth looking into. One plow or fifty plows, if you can make them easier to pull, you’re money ahead. Thanks for the interesting videos and take care.
I will watch again at work as I got interrupted on it.
Good content. 👍
I'm glad to see someone get the job done without $600 in power tool's.
You Can Smell the dirt all the way to Wyoming Thanks for the video.
Thank you for another interesting video....how about a short video on where you store and get your fuel.....
Great job getting that plow back in shape Squach, it looks good in the ground. Gotta wonder though......With all the different plow hitch types that you have worked with, which style works the best? I always get annoyed by IH's coming unhitched while traveling over rough ground, for example.
While grease works for an anti rust/seize Have you heard of a product called Rescue steel, Its fantastic stuff. I have seen nuts that are half rusted away and they have still undone, Its used alot on fishing boats that go to sea and used on the cables of suspension bridges. The old stuff used to have red lead in it but newer stuff still seems to work well
Nice adjustment session. Whenever tracking's involved i deffer to my brother. It's one step too many above my agricultural skills. :))
Yep, I can relate to that. My dad and older brother took care of those details so all I had to do was pull the rope to raise or lower the plow. 😉
The Plow drawbar is set too high on the plow, you need some drop links. The dead furrow is under cut a little, the skeath (Disk) needs a little adjustment for a clean vertical cut. Thank you for posting, very interesting video.
I have the same plow in a 3 bottom, that had the original hitch on it. I also changed mine out to a JD hitch. Reason being, the hitch just had a loop on it. (Like a clevis) the drawbar side had the breakaway on it. And I have yet to see a factory MM breakaway hitch. (Except on the web) Unobtanium! Still have the right, proper and correct hitch for the MM plow. Maybe have to make a drawbar mount breakaway hitch…
Good Video
Time to do laps and smooth the field. Dave D.
I did some research. That plow should have had the large loop with the bolt on plow hitch mounted on the draw bar. I have concluded Dad's MM plow had a Case hitch.
Evidently it was common to change hitches on Moline plows. Thank you.
I have one (with the loop hitch) and changed the hitch out as well, the breakaway that comes with the MM plow mounts on the drawbar. Most seem to have been lost.
Rd6 next !!!
Great plowing!
If you took that cross bar off and flipped it end for end would that give you a better selection of holes?
Those wheel studs; does that constitute "Borking It?"
Railroad companies use a product called molykote. Works the same but dries to the touch.
I had an old man tell me to let the drawbar swing free. I pulled a 5 bottom with my D4 7U like that. It was a blast
You did the first proper step, throw the bolt on the ground. But points off for the dirt not being Muddy or powder like to really stick in all the threads. Also you didn't drop it again after greasing it up, just plain bad form.
Still though, very nice seeing old iron still making the business. Even if it's not as hard run as it used to be.
I found this interesting since the extent of my farming is a garden and a few fruit trees. Are you going to seed these fields when you are through?
@@squatch253 Thanks for that.I was curious too.
It's nice to have a friend like Squatch, right Kyle?
I have used a 4 x 14 with the D2. It works great. I wouldn't try a 4x16 in heavy Missouri gumbo.
Wait, are studded tires legal there? 🤔🙂
big tip
dont plough (UK) deeper than what was done unless you have a rock digger
thats why you were picking up rocks
Did you think of using a c spanneron the spring. I use them on bulldog tractor govenor springs all the time .I've seen people heat and totally ruin springs for no reason.
I'm curious, why you don't keep the tractor draw bar free to move? We have similar plows here, but not identical, the draw bar is normally anguled and not straight. Thank you.
I know you like grease better than antiseize for steel and iron. What about for aluminum on aluminum
Nice 👍🌎🌞
Yes.
What is the plow share cut 14 or 16. Thanks
We want to see the discing too. Thank you.
@@squatch253 Dang. Well, please show us the result of the discing when you're back over there next time. I'd like to see how the disc lays out those upturned rows. I can only imagine the forethought and bother you go to in order to video everything. I have a hard enough time just getting my work done without documenting it. Thanks again.
Great plow adjustment knowledge. Would three 16s in 3rd gear be more efficient or a wash?
Another thing to consider on plow size is trash flow bigger bottoms allow more material to flow through but that said in high clay soils they also create large slabs that can be difficult to break up.
Plow days, as I have observed them to become, are all about speed. Guys wanna go rippin' 'cross the field and get back to the next pass. "Look at me! My tractor is so powerful that it can pull this plow really fast!" That's a big part of the reason everyone shows up with one- maybe two- fewer bottoms than their tractor would have pulled originally.
Nothing wrong with that, but BITD, guys just drove a lot slower. We pulled 3-14s with a JD 70 in 2nd gear. Maybe our soil was tough, maybe we plowed deeper, maybe our tractor was a wimp, but that's what we did. 4-14s with an IH W9, same plow on a Farmall 400 (don't remember what gear).
@@kevintheilen9643 Thanks for clarifying the reason these men hauled their equipment so far to turn sod. I originally thought they did so out of great respect for Squatch and the comradery plus to share their proudly restored equipment with like minded good friends but now I know I was wrong. It was a "Big Boy Show and Tell" and I wish I had been there to shake their hands.
@@kevintheilen9643 also make the furrows narrower turning less soil per pass
Yeah
John Deere parts? Did you verify your right to repair?😉
Lol
politely get lost
Was that Sr's D2?
You are supposed to drop the bolt after you coat it with grease. Anti seize should be used on high temp applications ie manifold bolts exhaust bolts
Dropping the greased bolt is the original version of thread locker. Not to be confused with seized threads, the greasy dirt just increases the coefficient of friction.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 true
What do you do when the plow shares wear down? Rebuild them? As far as I know it is impossible to get new plow shares unless you know of a source.
@@squatch253 Thank you.
Yeah, 1113 would've been way too young for such an event. Maybe next year after it gets a bit more seasoned in.
I've had much better luck with copper antiseize than the nickel or zinc varieties. Less messy too.
I couldn’t have imagined there was so much tweaking in plowing. How did people with just a mule do it?
Slowly, with a lot of difficulty and sore muscles.
Quick someone hide the crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) from Luke Strasser!