As an authorized repair tech for Taylors it’s really important to note here that you shouldn’t need to file the saddle significantly on a Taylor. String height adjustments should be done using the neck shims system, assuming there’s no humidity issues and everything else is within spec. Also, if you have an ES2-equipped Taylor you need to loosen the pickups with the hex screws before removing and replacing a saddle or you can damage the pickup.
Yes you are correct! Taylor's bolt on neck and shim design allows you to set your action where you may only need to do minor adjustment to the saddle to dial it in.
You should really mention that you have the "new" neck design Taylor has been using. Those of us with Taylors made before the neck change cannot use shims, as theirs has no accommodation for shims.
This video helped me set up a new guitar perfectly by myself for the first time and I couldn’t be prouder. Though I didn’t have most of the equipments so had to improvise quite a few, and the sanding was painful...my fingers were gone for a day or two..
Great tutorial, I was very nervous about lower the action on my 814ce, but after watching your video a few times, I took the plunge and am very happy with the result. As you I think you said, the action was actually quite high from the shop, but I guess I lived with it ...until I got an electric guitar, and it became very noticable, now I'm playing both guitars regularly 😀👏
I've just bought a new Taylor and, just in case, also bought a set up kit with it. After measuring the bits and bobs it turned out to be spot on (played well to begin with anyway, that was a clue). Ex factory it didn't need any further re-adjustment at all, quite impressive really. Thank you Taylor.
Hi, I have been playing and doing basic adjustments on my instruments for 35 years. I finally bought a high-end Taylor. At first it was fine but after playing it I noticed a slight buzz. I was irritated, I had several people look at it all assured me it was perfect. I decided to dig and found your video. Although its a pricey piece, I decided to adjust it myself. I bought your gauge kit and found the rod was a 1/4 tight. Made 2 1/8 turns and fixed the buzz. Thank you for the great and affordable product and the easy to follow instructions. I'm very happy and will be buying more tools to work on all my instruments.
I don't have a Taylor but just finished lowering the action on a pawn shop purchased Yamaha APX500. I got it for a steal as it needed a lot of work but now it plays like a dream! It was real cruddy!! frets polished up, cleaned and set up with new strings and action lowered. Has a nice pickup system and sounds great now. Thanks!!! It took me several times removing bridge and sanding because I didn't want to over do it. Patience is key.
This is a clear and helpful guide, and the Music Nomad tools look to be excellent. A couple of things to consider: 1) Taylor guitars have a bolt-on neck with both heel block and fingerboard attached to the body of the guitar with bolts. The general action is best adjusted by changing the neck angle rather than simply adjusting the saddle height. Fine adjustments can be made by sanding the saddle, but it’s best to get the neck geometry correct first. The downside of this approach is that you need Taylor’s laser-cut wooden shims to make these adjustments and my understanding is that Taylor only supply these to authorised dealers. 2) The ES2 pickup has three small adjustable levers mounted behind the saddle, allowing the pick up pressure on the saddle to be adjusted. The piezo pickup contacts the back of the saddle rather than the underside as with most other pickups. Before removing the saddle at the adjustable levers should be loosened a little to avoid damaging the pickup. I’m guessing this video was intended to offer a guide to general acoustic guitar setup, rather than be Taylor specific. Perhaps this should be clarified somewhere?
Excellent comments. From my own experience, if your Taylor action is out of factory spec, and you are the original owner, they will pay to have an authorized agent adjust the neck angle.
Great points. I have to add that the video is also giving terrible advice about sanding the saddle irrespective of the brand of guitar. You should never sand at an angle like that to remove more material from one side than the other. The bottom needs to be at 90 degrees angle to all 4 sides, otherwise you're not going to get proper contact. He's maintaining the angle in one axis, but screwing it up in the other.
@@boshi9 How else do you get the correct heights at the 6 and 1st strings without sanding at an angle? It doesn't mean that the exact point where the top of the saddle where the string meets is alters in any way in relation to the exact distance from the saddle to the nut. It's simple geometry.
Nick is exactly right. The Taylor neck is easily removed (like a 5 minute task) and shims should be used to adjust action. Adjusting the saddle height is a last resort, not first.
Awesome setup video, Geoff, best on TH-cam! MusicNomad products are second to none! I also agree with Geoff re: the poor nut cuts from the factory, my 812ce nut was also causing way too high action at the first fret. When paying $3k+ for a guitar, I would expect Taylor and other manufacturers to do better. Sometimes I'm surprised they pass QC.
Congrats on the 812ce! One of the most balanced, yet articulate guitars I’ve ever played. I was a bit surprised when my factory Taylor also came in with same issue.
Maybe just one important thing regarding a Taylor Guitar. If the string action is way to high a neck reset might be necessary. So before filing the saddle down, or let do this, contact Taylor if you are the first owner of the Guitar. A neck reset is covered by the Taylor warranty but only if the saddle was not manipulated.
Geoff! Don’t know how you guys know what guitars I own, but you and Rand have now posted setup vids for each of my babies. I need to dream up an issue so I can come visit you and the boys! Hmmmm…maybe my ‘66 Framus Super Strato needs some SoCoGuitarworks love! Best to Heather!
I’m an experienced acoustic player, not a beginner. My Taylor factory set action was 120 thou, which I found extremely uncomfortable to play despite well hardened finger tips. I dropped the action by almost 50% to around 65 thou and it made a huge difference to playability. I mentioned this to their website, and to their credit, someone actually called me but I didn’t really get an answer as to why they set the action so high. Nevertheless, a great great guitar, and worth the effort to improve playability.
At 20:48, the belt sander is being used to remove saddle material to the afore-measured amount. After having mentioned that the saddle bottom must be perfectly flat, I cannot see how it is humanly possible to use a belt sander without a guide for the saddle being at exactly a 90 degree relationship to the sander belt. I use two flat pieces of oak juxtaposed at 90 degrees to each other with two screws to tighten them together. A piece of sandpaper with the appropriate graduation of grits, depending on how much material must be removed, is sandwiched between the two boards (1" x 2" will suffice) with the sanding surface at the perfect 90 degree angle to the bottom of the saddle and will keep the surface removed safely. I slide the saddle left and right with the bottom facing the sandpaper at the 90 degree angle and the result is damned-near perfect. The human hand in this video pivots at the elbow left and right and the fingers and thumb try to hold the saddle perpendicular to the sander. I think this will not work and will make the saddle bottom uneven. I want the saddle to be tightly and evenly touching the entire length of the saddle where the piezo pickup touches. I'll keep my technique, thank you. I might use the video's technique to quickly remove material at the beginning of this process, but I would switch to my two-board method when I get fairly close to the line scribed where I should stop.
Just found your channel today when I was learning how to setup my string height on my Tyler Mountain. To my surprise the 12th fret low E was .090 and the high E was at .070👍 but got a straight edge to check the straightness of the neck. Checking it tomorrow
Getting older now and my guitar is not as easy as it was in my younger and stronger days. I use med-light picks. Thank you for the information. Now to make a purchase. Proverbs 3:5-8
GREAT VIDEO , I have been using a strait edge to set my relief at the 8th fret and 6 thou , your method is way better , all my guitars are all lighting up with your setup .THANKS SO MUCH
So - following these instructions on my Taylor AD17, I had to back off the Truss Rod just a bit, leave the rear action alone, and take just a little off my Nut at the Low E and A strings. It was really close (from the factory) but now it's dead on. Thanks for this video! 🥂🖖
I have 2 beautiful Taylors (06 cocobolo 914 and a 94 xx-rs) I live in an area where there are no Taylor repair techs/ luthiers within hours, this helps to be able to get a better set up on my own. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. I have music nomads nut files and truss rod wrenches and they work great!! I already have string action and feeler gauges but I think I want to get yours because it seems like it will be much easier to read. Just got a new acoustic and thankfully I did not need to do any nut work, but I did need to lower the saddle and your video saved me time and money! I do not have a belt sander but taped sandpaper onto a piece of glass and it worked perfectly. Thanks
Best video on setup I've ever seen. 10/10! Curious, you mentioned that adjusting the intonation meant re-cutting the saddle slot to move it back or forth. Assuming you had the right file to smooth out the saddle, could the Nut files be used to cut the new slots?
Adjusting intonation on an acoustic guitar, like the Taylor in this video, is a complicated task as explained in the video. Follow the steps on the video to check your intonation to determine if it needs adjusting. Our nut files will work great for cutting new slots once the top of the saddle is ready for slots. Since this is a complicated task to perform properly we recommend you take your guitar to a qualified shop to have this adjustment done if needed.
On the Taylor website it says to move the pickups away from saddle before removing saddle or it could damage pickup. Didn't see you do this or you already did this?
For a Taylor Guitar that have the ESB or a ES2 pickup system you will want to first loosening the adjustment screws located on the top of the pickup housings before removing or replacing the saddle to avoid and potential damage.
At 9:36 you said, "I'm gonna remeasure, fretting at the 12th fret". However you are fretting at the 13th fret. Am I missing something or does the pick capo make the 13th fret be the 12th fret. Thanks
When we play guitar, we press the string on the side of the fret towards the headstock. For the setup, however, we want to create a straight line from the 12th fret to the 1st fret, so we press the string on the side of the fret closer to the bridge. It's still the 12th fret either way. I had the same question.
Thank you for such an informative video, really useful! I have since made a minor adjustment to the truss rod on my Taylor and didn't break anything! I expect I'm going to check all of my guitars for correct set up now :)
The important part is to have the proper ramp angle going from the saddle down into the bridge pin. For more details and clarification email guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
We do not have a 12 string Acoustic Guitar Setup video at this time but you can follow the same flow for this Taylor Guitar guitar for your 12 strings, while you're going through the setup if you have any other questions please email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
I wish I'd known about all this before I bought guitars, only to turn around and get rid of them because I'd find that the action was too high, including Taylors. I'd go back to my local Guitar Center, and all they would do is adjust the Truss! Idiots!!! This is a great video!!! 👍😁
Also would like to know. If I do the steps and everything is setup to my needs, except saddle, would I have to have saddle adjusted, if needed, for guitar to play correctly.
Hi I have viewed your video several times when I attempt to set up my guitars. Are you familiar with the Mexican Instrument called a Bajo Quinto?(half bass half guitar) It is basically an acoustic/electric guitar about the size of a Dreadnaught. So my question is this when measuring the string height at the first fret (nut height guage) and at the 6th/7th fret which Nomad guage reading should I use? the one for an acoustic or the one for a classical guitar. These Bajo quintos are known for high action straight from the factory. The more expensive ones Aprox $2500 to $5000 range dont have this issue.The guitar you see in my profile pic is a Bajo Quinto aprox $800.00. Thank you
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
I put in a new compensated (by Taylor) bone saddle for my Taylor 12 string 552CE. I have to lower the action - the Taylor official factory specs call for .050-.080 Treble /Bass at fret 12, which seems very low . Anyone have issues with those specs re buzzing , etc ? Nut slots and first fret measure good, etc. 12th fret Action suggested is just lower than anything I am familiar with?
What an outstanding video presentation! Very helpful and informative. I have that same 814ce guitar and a tech at Taylor told me that I have to loosen the 3 screws in the bridge (that hold the expression pickup underneath) before removing the saddle. Is that true as far as you know? Thanks bro.
I have a split saddle (pinless) guitar with the first saddle spanning the low E through the G strings and the treble saddle spanning the B and the high E. The saddle is compensated so the treble saddle is significantly behind the "bass" saddle. I'd like to leave the height of the treble saddle where it is and only make an adjustment to the bass side. The method shown here is great, but I'm not sure how to accurately scribe from the low E to the G on the bass saddle given that I don't think that I can simply line the saddles up together and measure as if I had a single saddle. Do you have any advice on how to do this? Your tools are wonderful, by the way!
You can use both the 17th and 19th fret. The principle is the same when checking intonation past the 12th fret. The higher up the neck you play, the 17th and 19th fret will help dial in your intonation on the upper frets.
Just a question - if we're taking different amounts of material off the High E and Low E sides of the saddle, does that mess with the radius of the saddle with respect to the fretboard? 19:26
Awesome video. Very in depth and informative. One question though. When sanding the saddle Geoff mentions that the saddle should be true and not angled, but if you're taking off more from one side than the other, how would it not be angled?
The saddle needs to be flat and not tipping forward or backwards and needs to be a straight line between the measurement points one the bass side to the treble side. The video does a great job at explaining the forward backward part and sanding from mark to mark. Go back to the video and if you still need clarifications email us at tech@musicnomad.com
@@MusicNomadCare The video is clearly wrong about this. Geoff emphasized the importance of having the right angle between the bottom and the sides, which is all good, but ignored the slope he's introducing in the other axis by removing more material from one end of the saddle. As the result, you no longer have a 90 degrees angle between the bottom and the two narrow sides of the saddle. What's worse, if the saddle slot is properly tight (as it should be), you're not going to get full contact at the bottom along the length of the saddle. Think about it - the saddle is held up on 4 sides by the bridge, but the bottom now has a slope and will only have contact at one end.
@@boshi9 If the bottom of the saddle is sanded perfectly vertical the angle of the bottom in relation to the sides will always always be 90 degrees regardless of the slope that will be invoked by sanding laterally at any angle.
@@boshi9 if you draw a line between the two dots then proceed with the sanding procedure, you would realize that the new slope is tilted at angle so minimal that it will not affect the relative angles between the base and the sides, unless you're doing something massively wrong then you would need to sand the sides as well. The saddle will not sit comfortably inside the bridge if the angle is off and you will realize this immediately. I guess he should have mentioned it, but he also said do this at a risk and better bring it to your local technician.
You can fast forward to the specific task below: 1:00 Pre-Setup Steps 3:05 Truss Rod 10:08 Radius of Strings 12:10 Action of Strings 23:09 Nut Height 34:48 Intonation
After you've set the relief and adjusted the saddle height....isn't the height at either of the first two positions going to be affected if you file the nut?
The KISS system is linear process which is why you fret at the 1st fret, it is a fix point because you haven't address your nut height. The nut height is the last step in the process so no, setting your relief and adjusting your saddle will not affect your nut height but you will need to finish the KISS process and make sure your your nut height is at the proper height after going through all the steps. Check out the proper flow of the KISS setup here www.musicnomadcare.com/How-To-Advice/Setup-Hub/The-Setup-Flow/
The KISS method is all about doing the setup in the proper flow so you do not have to go back and make any readjustments. You should not need to go back to recheck your relief as you have already addressed that area if your following the KISS method in the proper flow.
You could just change the neck shims instead of sanding the saddle, that way if someone wants to raise the action they don’t have to make a new saddle. Neck resets are the best reason to win a Taylor.
We include our custom designed pick capo in our Setup Gauge Kit and Truss Rod Gauge kit. You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow.
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
Can you please give some advice for nut height on a 12 string acoustic? My main question is should the companion/octave strings be set to the same heights as the main strings even though they are different gauges? Thanks 🙏
The general rule is the nut height is the same for both the regular and octave strings. Follow the nut height measurements on the gauge for an acoustic guitar. If you need more help or clarification email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
Hi great video, I have purchased the Music Nomad Kit, I usually set up my Martins myself, but have purchased a Taylor American Dream and found your Taylor Guitar setup video. What confuses me is why do you use your plectrum at the first fret to check the Action? I have never fretted at the first fret and this is the first video I have seen fretting at the first fret to check the Action. Is this a Taylor thing? Or is the Music Nomad Action Gauge calibrated to account for fretting at the first fret?
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
@@MusicNomadCare Ahh that's why I am getting a different reading, if I set up a guitar using my Stewmac action gauge then check it with the Nomad gauge it reads different when using the no capo at the first fret method. Thanks for the explanation.
So how do you know when your Taylor needs a neck reset(Neck removed and shims changed)? I have a brand new Taylor, and right from the factory the action is not surprisingly, pretty high. Neck relief is good (0.008") but my action is as follows (12th fret 1st = 0.090" 6th=0.100". 1st. fret 1st=0.025" 6th=0.035"). If you saw a guitar with these numbers would you be confident you could get it set-up without needing a neck reset, and doing what you've outlined here? I can do everything myself except the reset, as I cannot get the shims from Taylor. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Without us being able to see the instrument we can't give fully recommendation if the setup will fix your issues. You can perform the KISS method to the recommend specs and see if that does the trick. if it does not fix your issues you will need to take it to a qualified repair shop to look at your neck and see if you need a reset.
The general rule is that the file should be the same size as the string, up to no more than .003" - .004" larger than the string size. If you go much larger, the slot can become so large that the string vibrates in the slot, causing a buzz. If you use a file smaller than the string, the slot will be too tight, causing tuning issues. We do have a custom set for Light/Medium Acoustic Guitar Nut File Set www.musicnomadcare.com/Products/Guitar-Setup-Tools/Diamond-Coated-Nut-Files-21-Products/
The Keep It Simple Setup flow is a linear flow so its important to follow the proper steps in order. You will not be able to address your nut slot heights until you address your saddle as if you don't make your saddle adjustment before your nut height it will effect your nut slot heights.
He says that’s all the adjustments that can easily be done, but he left out a neck reset. Super easy and probably could have avoided sanding the saddle.
I’ve got two questions if y’all could help me out: 1. I’ve got a GS Mini. Can I set the action the same way as told in this video? 2. I’ve got 11’s on my main acoustic (not a GS Mini). Will this smaller string size effect anything during the setup? Thanks!
You will match the action for your GS Mini and for your main acoustic with the 11s the process is the same just make sure you get the proper nut file gauges that match your string gauge no more than 3-4 thousands of an inch larger
I did my acoustic my taylor 214ce i measure it took me hours to reaolved rhe problem then after few wks my action is back in higher again. I did put humidificatiin system in my hardcase. Thats why sometimes frustration soending a lot of time adjusting ur guutar then will comeback right away. How can i prevent that?
Our Collaboration with Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell and his 20+ years, two high volume guitar shops setting up 10,000 plus guitars, teaching 100's of students in his setup workshops, in house Plek experience, plus we asked a handful of other top repair shops the most common setup measurements and this was the unanimous measurements for a a great sounding and playing guitar. We realize there are many different opinions & manufacture recommended specs, plus these can dialed in more for the type of player and playing style.
Great tutorial even if you never ever want to sand a Taylor saddle with the NT system. But that beeing said, i am a DIY for my guitar's for more then 20 years and I am very please with Music Nomad's tools.Good quality easy to used. Plus, all your tutorial videos are educative and helpful. I won't hesitate to recommend your tools.
The best way to handle that would be to take it to a Plek Shop and have them evaluate it. You can use the KISS system to ensure the guitar is set up to your liking, but a Plek Shop can also evaluate it. Feel free to reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com, too, if you'd like to talk in detail about your Taylor's specific needs.
I don't understand why the order of operations has the nut last. The nut height will change the string height at the 12th but the bridge height won't change the nut height. Well, maybe a couple thousands of an inch, but nothing anyone could accurately measure on a string.
The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
Excellent video. One question. Does a capo on the first fret while measuring 12th fret action give you a lower reading?? I always measure action without a capo.
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
Thanks for the video bud... but guys when are you going to join the metric system? The hell is this 1 and 25ths of a 10th and half inches? just use millimeteres pleeease
Yeah anyone who argues imperial is superior to metric must be a dinosaur at this point. Though in UK it can be just as bad, we use the metric system only in school now yet we measure distance in miles, road signs use yards, petrol is sold by the litre but our fuel economy is measured in miles per galon it's a mess! Metric only please!
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
6:54 actual 6th fret or 6th in relation to the "capo"? Can't even see and his "12th" is actually 13 (without capo) Edit Ok so it's actual 6th 7:43 And I guess technically it is 12th fret since you're looking at fretting it in "reverse" from 13. Lol
This is just my opinion, but I find it strange that a video like this is even needed for a guitar that costs this much. I've had Godins and Seagulls that have arrived via FedEx and have needed no adjustments. The older models STILL need no adjustments. The intonation is perfect, the action is perfect. I do not understand high-end guitar manufacturers such as Taylor, Martin and PRS sending out prestigious (aka very expensive) instruments that require this much work after-sale. Perhaps they are relying on their "name" to justify this and put the responsibility for proper set-up on their customers. I would never buy or keep a guitar that required me to pay to finish what should have completed before shipping.
Please check with Taylor before using a file on your Taylor as doing that may void Taylor’s lifetime warranty, Some of the recommendations in the video seem to be at odds with Taylor recommendations.
Yes 100% we always recommend to reach out to your guitar manufacturer regarding your warranty and if your making any setup adjustment to the instrument that you will still be compliant with your warranty
Paid good money for a 150e 12 string but I live nowhere near an authorised repair person and since most Tailor guitars are not correctly adjusted and necks need re shimming .. guess what ? They refuse to provide corrective shims. Have tried everywhere but only received condescending dismissive reply's from Taylor and links to Australian repair techs closest 700kms away and I wont mail my guitar. I am perfectly able to do the repair and the maths to set up shims neck and saddle but they wont help at all. My action is 13/64 at the 12 fret, guitar kept in perfect humidity. Am gutted as I look at my $1400 au wall hanger. Don't buy unless you can afford expensive hidden costs and egotistic help people....... update, Taylor guitars finally agreed to help and send me the shims I need. Now I can reset the neck and appreciate my guitar to its full potential...
Due to my perseverance, Taylor in my case have agreed to send me the shims to Australia to suit my reset after some measuring. I do not have access to a tech to do the reset but am very capable in setup however do agree if you do not have this experience, go to a tech to do the reset.
Great video but I wish Americans would just start using millimetres instead of inches with guitar work these days. It makes no sense using '000s of an inch for such small measurements... :-)
@@Mustaine1ify I live in a metric country, when I’m there I know how to use it. I can use both systems, pretty easy really, kinda like how many Western Europeans speak like five languages, it’s called adaptability. You are the one being closed minded, that’s the irony.
Yes you're correct your instrument should be setup properly out of the factory but that is not always the case. Instruments can also be modified and may need a setup. We provided all the gauges and tools to perform a setup if needed.
Very seldom is a guitar set up correctly from the factory. Those that are would have been built and customized for a specific players desires and would be very expensive, in the thousands of dollars.
Step 1) trade that taylor guitar in for something that doesn’t sound like it’s stuffed full of cotton balls and all the harsh bright tones bulldoze through…
After your truss rod adjustment, the only way to adjust your action height if needed is to compensate at the saddle. We do state this is a very complex task and we recommend to take it to a qualified repair shop as it states in the video. You can reach out to Taylor Guitars for their recommendation but this is the process on how to adjust your action on an Acoustic Guitar at the bridge with a fixed saddle.
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As an authorized repair tech for Taylors it’s really important to note here that you shouldn’t need to file the saddle significantly on a Taylor. String height adjustments should be done using the neck shims system, assuming there’s no humidity issues and everything else is within spec. Also, if you have an ES2-equipped Taylor you need to loosen the pickups with the hex screws before removing and replacing a saddle or you can damage the pickup.
Yes you are correct! Taylor's bolt on neck and shim design allows you to set your action where you may only need to do minor adjustment to the saddle to dial it in.
Do all Taylors have bolt-on necks?
@@savoirfaire8979 yes, everything after 2001
@@savoirfaire8979 No.
You should really mention that you have the "new" neck design Taylor has been using. Those of us with Taylors made before the neck change cannot use shims, as theirs has no accommodation for shims.
This video turns amateurs into pros, great advice there! Thanks!
This video helped me set up a new guitar perfectly by myself for the first time and I couldn’t be prouder. Though I didn’t have most of the equipments so had to improvise quite a few, and the sanding was painful...my fingers were gone for a day or two..
Great tutorial, I was very nervous about lower the action on my 814ce, but after watching your video a few times, I took the plunge and am very happy with the result. As you I think you said, the action was actually quite high from the shop, but I guess I lived with it ...until I got an electric guitar, and it became very noticable, now I'm playing both guitars regularly 😀👏
I've just bought a new Taylor and, just in case, also bought a set up kit with it. After measuring the bits and bobs it turned out to be spot on (played well to begin with anyway, that was a clue). Ex factory it didn't need any further re-adjustment at all, quite impressive really. Thank you Taylor.
Hi, I have been playing and doing basic adjustments on my instruments for 35 years. I finally bought a high-end Taylor. At first it was fine but after playing it I noticed a slight buzz. I was irritated, I had several people look at it all assured me it was perfect. I decided to dig and found your video. Although its a pricey piece, I decided to adjust it myself. I bought your gauge kit and found the rod was a 1/4 tight. Made 2 1/8 turns and fixed the buzz. Thank you for the great and affordable product and the easy to follow instructions. I'm very happy and will be buying more tools to work on all my instruments.
I don't have a Taylor but just finished lowering the action on a pawn shop purchased Yamaha APX500. I got it for a steal as it needed a lot of work but now it plays like a dream! It was real cruddy!! frets polished up, cleaned and set up with new strings and action lowered. Has a nice pickup system and sounds great now. Thanks!!! It took me several times removing bridge and sanding because I didn't want to over do it. Patience is key.
This is a clear and helpful guide, and the Music Nomad tools look to be excellent.
A couple of things to consider:
1) Taylor guitars have a bolt-on neck with both heel block and fingerboard attached to the body of the guitar with bolts. The general action is best adjusted by changing the neck angle rather than simply adjusting the saddle height. Fine adjustments can be made by sanding the saddle, but it’s best to get the neck geometry correct first. The downside of this approach is that you need Taylor’s laser-cut wooden shims to make these adjustments and my understanding is that Taylor only supply these to authorised dealers.
2) The ES2 pickup has three small adjustable levers mounted behind the saddle, allowing the pick up pressure on the saddle to be adjusted. The piezo pickup contacts the back of the saddle rather than the underside as with most other pickups. Before removing the saddle at the adjustable levers should be loosened a little to avoid damaging the pickup.
I’m guessing this video was intended to offer a guide to general acoustic guitar setup, rather than be Taylor specific. Perhaps this should be clarified somewhere?
Excellent comments. From my own experience, if your Taylor action is out of factory spec, and you are the original owner, they will pay to have an authorized agent adjust the neck angle.
Great points. I have to add that the video is also giving terrible advice about sanding the saddle irrespective of the brand of guitar. You should never sand at an angle like that to remove more material from one side than the other. The bottom needs to be at 90 degrees angle to all 4 sides, otherwise you're not going to get proper contact. He's maintaining the angle in one axis, but screwing it up in the other.
@@boshi9 How else do you get the correct heights at the 6 and 1st strings without sanding at an angle? It doesn't mean that the exact point where the top of the saddle where the string meets is alters in any way in relation to the exact distance from the saddle to the nut. It's simple geometry.
@@boshi9 err bud, I don't think you understand how it works.
Nick is exactly right. The Taylor neck is easily removed (like a 5 minute task) and shims should be used to adjust action. Adjusting the saddle height is a last resort, not first.
Awesome setup video, Geoff, best on TH-cam! MusicNomad products are second to none! I also agree with Geoff re: the poor nut cuts from the factory, my 812ce nut was also causing way too high action at the first fret. When paying $3k+ for a guitar, I would expect Taylor and other manufacturers to do better. Sometimes I'm surprised they pass QC.
Congrats on the 812ce! One of the most balanced, yet articulate guitars I’ve ever played. I was a bit surprised when my factory Taylor also came in with same issue.
Maybe just one important thing regarding a Taylor Guitar. If the string action is way to high a neck reset might be necessary. So before filing the saddle down, or let do this, contact Taylor if you are the first owner of the Guitar. A neck reset is covered by the Taylor warranty but only if the saddle was not manipulated.
Quick question, will I have to ship the guitar to Taylor for this adjustment?
@@TherootsolutionsLV If the vendor is a Taylor certified show and has someone capable of working on Guitars this would be the first point of contact.
Thanks I check with them
Geoff! Don’t know how you guys know what guitars I own, but you and Rand have now posted setup vids for each of my babies. I need to dream up an issue so I can come visit you and the boys! Hmmmm…maybe my ‘66 Framus Super Strato needs some SoCoGuitarworks love! Best to Heather!
I’m an experienced acoustic player, not a beginner. My Taylor factory set action was 120 thou, which I found extremely uncomfortable to play despite well hardened finger tips. I dropped the action by almost 50% to around 65 thou and it made a huge difference to playability. I mentioned this to their website, and to their credit, someone actually called me but I didn’t really get an answer as to why they set the action so high. Nevertheless, a great great guitar, and worth the effort to improve playability.
At 20:48, the belt sander is being used to remove saddle material to the afore-measured amount. After having mentioned that the saddle bottom must be perfectly flat, I cannot see how it is humanly possible to use a belt sander without a guide for the saddle being at exactly a 90 degree relationship to the sander belt. I use two flat pieces of oak juxtaposed at 90 degrees to each other with two screws to tighten them together. A piece of sandpaper with the appropriate graduation of grits, depending on how much material must be removed, is sandwiched between the two boards (1" x 2" will suffice) with the sanding surface at the perfect 90 degree angle to the bottom of the saddle and will keep the surface removed safely. I slide the saddle left and right with the bottom facing the sandpaper at the 90 degree angle and the result is damned-near perfect. The human hand in this video pivots at the elbow left and right and the fingers and thumb try to hold the saddle perpendicular to the sander. I think this will not work and will make the saddle bottom uneven. I want the saddle to be tightly and evenly touching the entire length of the saddle where the piezo pickup touches. I'll keep my technique, thank you. I might use the video's technique to quickly remove material at the beginning of this process, but I would switch to my two-board method when I get fairly close to the line scribed where I should stop.
As the man said, “….you’d almost think I’d done this before…”
Excellent video. Clear, throrough instructions and demonstration.
like video and the kit they sell. For acoustic guitar though it would seem most useful for an experienced set-up guy or a pro.
Just found your channel today when I was learning how to setup my string height on my Tyler Mountain. To my surprise the 12th fret low E was .090 and the high E was at .070👍 but got a straight edge to check the straightness of the neck. Checking it tomorrow
Getting older now and my guitar is not as easy as it was in my younger and stronger days. I use med-light picks. Thank you for the information. Now to make a purchase.
Proverbs 3:5-8
Great info here! Thanks! For sharing it with us! Am a Taylor 314CE owner!
Great video. Very informative.
Very helpful thanks for posting
GREAT VIDEO , I have been using a strait edge to set my relief at the 8th fret and 6 thou , your method is way better , all my guitars are all lighting up with your setup .THANKS SO MUCH
So - following these instructions on my Taylor AD17, I had to back off the Truss Rod just a bit, leave the rear action alone, and take just a little off my Nut at the Low E and A strings. It was really close (from the factory) but now it's dead on. Thanks for this video! 🥂🖖
I have 2 beautiful Taylors (06 cocobolo 914 and a 94 xx-rs) I live in an area where there are no Taylor repair techs/ luthiers within hours, this helps to be able to get a better set up on my own. Thanks
Best setup tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. I have music nomads nut files and truss rod wrenches and they work great!! I already have string action and feeler gauges but I think I want to get yours because it seems like it will be much easier to read. Just got a new acoustic and thankfully I did not need to do any nut work, but I did need to lower the saddle and your video saved me time and money! I do not have a belt sander but taped sandpaper onto a piece of glass and it worked perfectly.
Thanks
Great tutorial,very clear and complete Thanks!
Best video on setup I've ever seen. 10/10!
Curious, you mentioned that adjusting the intonation meant re-cutting the saddle slot to move it back or forth. Assuming you had the right file to smooth out the saddle, could the Nut files be used to cut the new slots?
Adjusting intonation on an acoustic guitar, like the Taylor in this video, is a complicated task as explained in the video. Follow the steps on the video to check your intonation to determine if it needs adjusting. Our nut files will work great for cutting new slots once the top of the saddle is ready for slots. Since this is a complicated task to perform properly we recommend you take your guitar to a qualified shop to have this adjustment done if needed.
On the Taylor website it says to move the pickups away from saddle before removing saddle or it could damage pickup. Didn't see you do this or you already did this?
For a Taylor Guitar that have the ESB or a ES2 pickup system you will want to first loosening the adjustment screws located on the top of the pickup housings before removing or replacing the saddle to avoid and potential damage.
Great video
Nice demo with the precision tools..my guitar now has best action with capo on 2nd fret..🤣
Great to hear!
At 9:36 you said, "I'm gonna remeasure, fretting at the 12th fret". However you are fretting at the 13th fret. Am I missing something or does the pick capo make the 13th fret be the 12th fret. Thanks
He is pushing down right behind the 12th fret so its being fretted at the 12 fret.
When we play guitar, we press the string on the side of the fret towards the headstock. For the setup, however, we want to create a straight line from the 12th fret to the 1st fret, so we press the string on the side of the fret closer to the bridge. It's still the 12th fret either way. I had the same question.
Thank you for such an informative video, really useful! I have since made a minor adjustment to the truss rod on my Taylor and didn't break anything! I expect I'm going to check all of my guitars for correct set up now :)
Rock on!
Great video..Hope I'll be able to make my TAYLOR sound good now.
I have been told to use old strings to set up the guitar. I see you put the new strings first. Was I taught wrong?
I am confused as to how to use the radius measuring tool. You did explain it well.
If you still need additional help please email our tech at tech@musicnomad.com
arnt the nut slots cut to the shape of the radius from factory? so you could just file the nut from the bottom?
Fantastic can you tell us about the min height from top of bridge to start of the string on the saddle please
The important part is to have the proper ramp angle going from the saddle down into the bridge pin. For more details and clarification email guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
Any plans to do a video on setting up a 12 string acoustic?
We do not have a 12 string Acoustic Guitar Setup video at this time but you can follow the same flow for this Taylor Guitar guitar for your 12 strings, while you're going through the setup if you have any other questions please email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
Amazing guitar tools, amazing teacher and amazing adjusting video thank you for all.
I wish I'd known about all this before I bought guitars, only to turn around and get rid of them because I'd find that the action was too high, including Taylors. I'd go back to my local Guitar Center, and all they would do is adjust the Truss! Idiots!!! This is a great video!!! 👍😁
Also would like to know. If I do the steps and everything is setup to my needs, except saddle, would I have to have saddle adjusted, if needed, for guitar to play correctly.
Thanks for reaching out! Can you reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com and we'll be able to discuss the specific needs of your instrument? Thank you.
Thanks
How long time takes the shop the set the quitar?
Hi I have viewed your video several times when I attempt to set up my guitars. Are you familiar with the Mexican Instrument called a Bajo Quinto?(half bass half guitar) It is basically an acoustic/electric guitar about the size of a Dreadnaught. So my question is this when measuring the string height at the first fret (nut height guage) and at the 6th/7th fret which Nomad guage reading should I use? the one for an acoustic or the one for a classical guitar. These Bajo quintos are known for high action straight from the factory. The more expensive ones Aprox $2500 to $5000 range dont have this issue.The guitar you see in my profile pic is a Bajo Quinto aprox $800.00. Thank you
Thanks for reaching out! Can you email me at tech@musicnomad.com, and we can discuss your instrument's specific needs further?
What about checking the neck angle before adjusting the saddle? Also why press 1st fret when checking action height @ the 12th?
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
Thank you for the video .
I put in a new compensated (by Taylor) bone saddle for my Taylor 12 string 552CE. I have to lower the action - the Taylor official factory specs call for .050-.080 Treble /Bass at fret 12, which seems very low . Anyone have issues with those specs re buzzing , etc ? Nut slots and first fret measure good, etc. 12th fret Action suggested is just lower than anything I am familiar with?
What an outstanding video presentation! Very helpful and informative. I have that same 814ce guitar and a tech at Taylor told me that I have to loosen the 3 screws in the bridge (that hold the expression pickup underneath) before removing the saddle. Is that true as far as you know? Thanks bro.
Yes it is true you will need to loosen those screw before removing the saddle.
@@MusicNomadCare Thanks!
I have a split saddle (pinless) guitar with the first saddle spanning the low E through the G strings and the treble saddle spanning the B and the high E. The saddle is compensated so the treble saddle is significantly behind the "bass" saddle. I'd like to leave the height of the treble saddle where it is and only make an adjustment to the bass side. The method shown here is great, but I'm not sure how to accurately scribe from the low E to the G on the bass saddle given that I don't think that I can simply line the saddles up together and measure as if I had a single saddle. Do you have any advice on how to do this? Your tools are wonderful, by the way!
Thank you for reaching out! Can you contact tech@muiscnomad.com and our tech will be able to better understand your setup and assist you. Thank you.
for intonation check, you say 12th and 17th, but for the second, you always press on the 19th. you do the same in other videos. what am i missing:)
You can use both the 17th and 19th fret. The principle is the same when checking intonation past the 12th fret. The higher up the neck you play, the 17th and 19th fret will help dial in your intonation on the upper frets.
Just a question - if we're taking different amounts of material off the High E and Low E sides of the saddle, does that mess with the radius of the saddle with respect to the fretboard? 19:26
This should not affect the radius. Feel free to reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com to discuss your instrument's specific needs.
Awesome video. Very in depth and informative. One question though. When sanding the saddle Geoff mentions that the saddle should be true and not angled, but if you're taking off more from one side than the other, how would it not be angled?
The saddle needs to be flat and not tipping forward or backwards and needs to be a straight line between the measurement points one the bass side to the treble side.
The video does a great job at explaining the forward backward part and sanding from mark to mark. Go back to the video and if you still need clarifications email us at tech@musicnomad.com
@@MusicNomadCare The video is clearly wrong about this. Geoff emphasized the importance of having the right angle between the bottom and the sides, which is all good, but ignored the slope he's introducing in the other axis by removing more material from one end of the saddle. As the result, you no longer have a 90 degrees angle between the bottom and the two narrow sides of the saddle. What's worse, if the saddle slot is properly tight (as it should be), you're not going to get full contact at the bottom along the length of the saddle. Think about it - the saddle is held up on 4 sides by the bridge, but the bottom now has a slope and will only have contact at one end.
@@boshi9 If the bottom of the saddle is sanded perfectly vertical the angle of the bottom in relation to the sides will always always be 90 degrees regardless of the slope that will be invoked by sanding laterally at any angle.
@@boshi9 if you draw a line between the two dots then proceed with the sanding procedure, you would realize that the new slope is tilted at angle so minimal that it will not affect the relative angles between the base and the sides, unless you're doing something massively wrong then you would need to sand the sides as well. The saddle will not sit comfortably inside the bridge if the angle is off and you will realize this immediately. I guess he should have mentioned it, but he also said do this at a risk and better bring it to your local technician.
You can fast forward to the specific task below:
1:00 Pre-Setup Steps
3:05 Truss Rod
10:08 Radius of Strings
12:10 Action of Strings
23:09 Nut Height
34:48 Intonation
Definitely subscribe to your channel after watching this!! Explained perfectly!! Thanks!
That was great, thank you!
After you've set the relief and adjusted the saddle height....isn't the height at either of the first two positions going to be affected if you file the nut?
The KISS system is linear process which is why you fret at the 1st fret, it is a fix point because you haven't address your nut height. The nut height is the last step in the process so no, setting your relief and adjusting your saddle will not affect your nut height but you will need to finish the KISS process and make sure your your nut height is at the proper height after going through all the steps.
Check out the proper flow of the KISS setup here www.musicnomadcare.com/How-To-Advice/Setup-Hub/The-Setup-Flow/
Um,, Taylor’s have an adjustable neck angle- so perhaps do that before shaving the saddle.
🤔
this is the best vid!!! thansk!!!!
If you have to adjust the saddle height like the technician, do you then have to recheck/reset the relief?
The KISS method is all about doing the setup in the proper flow so you do not have to go back and make any readjustments. You should not need to go back to recheck your relief as you have already addressed that area if your following the KISS method in the proper flow.
You could just change the neck shims instead of sanding the saddle, that way if someone wants to raise the action they don’t have to make a new saddle.
Neck resets are the best reason to win a Taylor.
Taylor Builder’s Editions have good factory setups.
thats about 2000.00 guitar you would think they could set it up before selling
the pick capo is a new one for me, what gauge is the pick and why exactly do you need it?
We include our custom designed pick capo in our Setup Gauge Kit and Truss Rod Gauge kit. You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow.
Excellent!!!
Many thanks!
Was wondering couldn’t you put a capo on first fret instead of sliding in the pick to hold both E strings down
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
Is there a reason you don't simply use a capo at the First fret instead of using a pick when taking action measurements?
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
Why not file notches in saddle like the nut instead of sanding the bottom? Could notches compensate for a saddle that is not exactly the right radius?
I think if you cut notches in the saddle it will dampen the string vibration and cause a loss in sound quality.
Can you please give some advice for nut height on a 12 string acoustic? My main question is should the companion/octave strings be set to the same heights as the main strings even though they are different gauges? Thanks 🙏
The general rule is the nut height is the same for both the regular and octave strings. Follow the nut height measurements on the gauge for an acoustic guitar. If you need more help or clarification email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
@@MusicNomadCare Thank you friend!
Hi great video, I have purchased the Music Nomad Kit, I usually set up my Martins myself, but have purchased a Taylor American Dream and found your Taylor Guitar setup video. What confuses me is why do you use your plectrum at the first fret to check the Action? I have never fretted at the first fret and this is the first video I have seen fretting at the first fret to check the Action. Is this a Taylor thing? Or is the Music Nomad Action Gauge calibrated to account for fretting at the first fret?
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
@@MusicNomadCare Ahh that's why I am getting a different reading, if I set up a guitar using my Stewmac action gauge then check it with the Nomad gauge it reads different when using the no capo at the first fret method. Thanks for the explanation.
So how do you know when your Taylor needs a neck reset(Neck removed and shims changed)? I have a brand new Taylor, and right from the factory the action is not surprisingly, pretty high. Neck relief is good (0.008") but my action is as follows (12th fret 1st = 0.090" 6th=0.100". 1st. fret 1st=0.025" 6th=0.035"). If you saw a guitar with these numbers would you be confident you could get it set-up without needing a neck reset, and doing what you've outlined here? I can do everything myself except the reset, as I cannot get the shims from Taylor. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Without us being able to see the instrument we can't give fully recommendation if the setup will fix your issues. You can perform the KISS method to the recommend specs and see if that does the trick. if it does not fix your issues you will need to take it to a qualified repair shop to look at your neck and see if you need a reset.
which Diamond Coated Nut Filing size should be used with acoustic guitars, I noticed that there are many sizes 013" ,016", 028"...etc ?
The general rule is that the file should be the same size as the string, up to no more than .003" - .004" larger than the string size. If you go much larger, the slot can become so large that the string vibrates in the slot, causing a buzz. If you use a file smaller than the string, the slot will be too tight, causing tuning issues. We do have a custom set for Light/Medium Acoustic Guitar Nut File Set
www.musicnomadcare.com/Products/Guitar-Setup-Tools/Diamond-Coated-Nut-Files-21-Products/
If the saddle needs adjustment and I decide to leave it to a professional can you still do the nut slot height adjustment?
The Keep It Simple Setup flow is a linear flow so its important to follow the proper steps in order. You will not be able to address your nut slot heights until you address your saddle as if you don't make your saddle adjustment before your nut height it will effect your nut slot heights.
I can't get the screws out... nevermind adjust the truss rod
He says that’s all the adjustments that can easily be done, but he left out a neck reset. Super easy and probably could have avoided sanding the saddle.
Do this numbers works for 12 string guitars?
Yes, follow this setup video to setup your 12 string guitar. You can email tech@musicnomad.com if you have more questions.
I’ve got two questions if y’all could help me out:
1. I’ve got a GS Mini. Can I set the action the same way as told in this video?
2. I’ve got 11’s on my main acoustic (not a GS Mini). Will this smaller string size effect anything during the setup?
Thanks!
You will match the action for your GS Mini and for your main acoustic with the 11s the process is the same just make sure you get the proper nut file gauges that match your string gauge no more than 3-4 thousands of an inch larger
Is the action height the same for a 12-string?
Yes, you would use the measurements for an acoustic guitar.
The price of a Taylor you think they would come setup.
Is there a difference in this process with a slotted head stock?
There is no difference in the KISS method with a slotted headstock.
I did my acoustic my taylor 214ce i measure it took me hours to reaolved rhe problem then after few wks my action is back in higher again. I did put humidificatiin system in my hardcase. Thats why sometimes frustration soending a lot of time adjusting ur guutar then will comeback right away. How can i prevent that?
To get more details from you so we can help you further please email our guitar tech at tech@musicnomad.com
Taylor paperwork indicates .010 @ 6th fret
Our Collaboration with Master Guitar Tech Geoff Luttrell and his 20+ years, two high volume guitar shops setting up 10,000 plus guitars, teaching 100's of students in his setup workshops, in house Plek experience, plus we asked a handful of other top repair shops the most common setup measurements and this was the unanimous measurements for a a great sounding and playing guitar. We realize there are many different opinions & manufacture recommended specs, plus these can dialed in more for the type of player and playing style.
Great tutorial even if you never ever want to sand a Taylor saddle with the NT system. But that beeing said, i am a DIY for my guitar's for more then 20 years and I am very please with Music Nomad's tools.Good quality easy to used. Plus, all your tutorial videos are educative and helpful. I won't hesitate to recommend your tools.
Do new taylor guitars need plek pro
The best way to handle that would be to take it to a Plek Shop and have them evaluate it. You can use the KISS system to ensure the guitar is set up to your liking, but a Plek Shop can also evaluate it. Feel free to reach out to us at tech@musicnomad.com, too, if you'd like to talk in detail about your Taylor's specific needs.
I don't understand why the order of operations has the nut last. The nut height will change the string height at the 12th but the bridge height won't change the nut height. Well, maybe a couple thousands of an inch, but nothing anyone could accurately measure on a string.
The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
Excellent video. One question.
Does a capo on the first fret while measuring 12th fret action give you a lower reading?? I always measure action without a capo.
You use the pick capo to hold the E strings down at the first fret because the first fret is a fixed reference point for making the truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. The measurements labeled on the gauges are based off the fixed-point reference of the first fret. Holding down the string at the first fret with the Pick Capo allows you to make an accurate adjustment following the KISS methods linear flow. In the flow you have not yet addressed your nut slot height which makes it a nonvalid reference point. Adjusting the nut slot height is the last step in the playability part of the setup. Following the KISS linear flow allows you to setup your guitar to play and sound great without having to go back and repeat steps.
Thanks for the video bud... but guys when are you going to join the metric system? The hell is this 1 and 25ths of a 10th and half inches? just use millimeteres pleeease
The imperial system is used in America and that's primarily who they're marketing to.
@@danielbell7855 i know but...its super complicated. The British do love to complicate everything
Piss off wanker…
How many days in a year in metric?
@@SkyLukewater Brits use metric - have done for decades. Maybe the odd 80-yr old…!
Yeah anyone who argues imperial is superior to metric must be a dinosaur at this point. Though in UK it can be just as bad, we use the metric system only in school now yet we measure distance in miles, road signs use yards, petrol is sold by the litre but our fuel economy is measured in miles per galon it's a mess! Metric only please!
Why not use a regular capo instead of a pick?
The pick capo allows you to hold the string down on top of the 1st fret with just enough tension and is easy to slip in without worrying about where it sits on the fret and how much tension is on it. Yes, you can use a regular capo but you need to make sure it is holding down the string directly on top of the 1st fret using the least amount of tension otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading.
🤔🤔 hmmm. Neck releif measuring gauge is called a truss rod gauge
6:54 actual 6th fret or 6th in relation to the "capo"? Can't even see and his "12th" is actually 13 (without capo)
Edit
Ok so it's actual 6th 7:43
And I guess technically it is 12th fret since you're looking at fretting it in "reverse" from 13. Lol
This is just my opinion, but I find it strange that a video like this is even needed for a guitar that costs this much. I've had Godins and Seagulls that have arrived via FedEx and have needed no adjustments. The older models STILL need no adjustments. The intonation is perfect, the action is perfect. I do not understand high-end guitar manufacturers such as Taylor, Martin and PRS sending out prestigious (aka very expensive) instruments that require this much work after-sale. Perhaps they are relying on their "name" to justify this and put the responsibility for proper set-up on their customers. I would never buy or keep a guitar that required me to pay to finish what should have completed before shipping.
I have several Taylors, they all neet set up right out of the box. Really high action, worse than a Martin.
Please check with Taylor before using a file on your Taylor as doing that may void Taylor’s lifetime warranty,
Some of the recommendations in the video seem to be at odds with Taylor recommendations.
Yes 100% we always recommend to reach out to your guitar manufacturer regarding your warranty and if your making any setup adjustment to the instrument that you will still be compliant with your warranty
Paid good money for a 150e 12 string but I live nowhere near an authorised repair person and since most Tailor guitars are not correctly adjusted and necks need re shimming .. guess what ? They refuse to provide corrective shims. Have tried everywhere but only received condescending dismissive reply's from Taylor and links to Australian repair techs closest 700kms away and I wont mail my guitar. I am perfectly able to do the repair and the maths to set up shims neck and saddle but they wont help at all. My action is 13/64 at the 12 fret, guitar kept in perfect humidity. Am gutted as I look at my $1400 au wall hanger. Don't buy unless you can afford expensive hidden costs and egotistic help people....... update, Taylor guitars finally agreed to help and send me the shims I need. Now I can reset the neck and appreciate my guitar to its full potential...
Hey Murray, do you have a question on your action. We are here to help with the setup process.
Due to my perseverance, Taylor in my case have agreed to send me the shims to Australia to suit my reset after some measuring. I do not have access to a tech to do the reset but am very capable in setup however do agree if you do not have this experience, go to a tech to do the reset.
Great video but I wish Americans would just start using millimetres instead of inches with guitar work these days. It makes no sense using '000s of an inch for such small measurements... :-)
We do things how we want, if you don’t like it too bad.
Indeed you can, but to the rest of planet earth (like many things) it just looks dumb. Get a passport
@@Mustaine1ify I live in a metric country, when I’m there I know how to use it. I can use both systems, pretty easy really, kinda like how many Western Europeans speak like five languages, it’s called adaptability. You are the one being closed minded, that’s the irony.
@@Zach-ls1if You say "we do things how we want" like you're from the U.S but then say "you live in a metric country" which is it?
@@Mustaine1ify i live 6 months in US and 6 months abroad. Cheers man.
Shouldn't need all this, should set up correctly from the manufacturer
Yes you're correct your instrument should be setup properly out of the factory but that is not always the case. Instruments can also be modified and may need a setup. We provided all the gauges and tools to perform a setup if needed.
Very seldom is a guitar set up correctly from the factory. Those that are would have been built and customized for a specific players desires and would be very expensive, in the thousands of dollars.
Taylor Builder’s Editions have good setups
It's quite annoying that Taylor uses a nut instead like other guitars...
Step 1) trade that taylor guitar in for something that doesn’t sound like it’s stuffed full of cotton balls and all the harsh bright tones bulldoze through…
20:46 never, never, never adjust a saddle... is the worse operation you can do on acoustic guitar!
After your truss rod adjustment, the only way to adjust your action height if needed is to compensate at the saddle. We do state this is a very complex task and we recommend to take it to a qualified repair shop as it states in the video. You can reach out to Taylor Guitars for their recommendation but this is the process on how to adjust your action on an Acoustic Guitar at the bridge with a fixed saddle.
you can reach out to tech@musicnomad.com for more clarification
Not with a Taylor. Completely different system. The action is adjusted via the neck shims. This is bad information in regard to setting up a Taylor.
@@mikeb5341 Indeed, that's the correct and best way to do it
Nonsense. The notion that a guitar would need a neck reset for minor string height adjustment is complete nonsense.