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Marshall is so kind, friendly, professional, and exquisitely knowledgeable. I always love seeing videos of his workshop. Thanks for the fantastic video!
When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it. Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that. Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂
Thanks for your tip! I too wondered about shaving the bottom of the bridge and thought that maybe I might use Vernier calipers to measure the bridge (and nut) height's progress.
The most import thing that people forget to mention: You cannot determine the action on your guitar or take any meaningful measurements unless your guitar is IN TUNE. Your guitar has to be IN TUNE every step of the way during a setup and you need to keep RETUNING it after every little adjustment. If the guitar is out of tune you cannot take any meaningful measurements and you will make a mess out of the setup.
Wow, I was literally examining one of my guitars the other day and thinking, “gosh, my action sure is pretty extreme, I wonder what I could do to modify it.” Look at you guys coming in to save the day
I had to do this to a new guitar only 2 weeks ago, only that I bought a left-handed model (so the shop told me) however it was a right-handed model with the strings swapped round. This meant the saddle was way to high on the treble side and to low of the bass side (the saddle was setup with a ramp up to the bass side and once the strings were swapped around it was horrible). I took the saddle and flipped it around then used a file to re-cut the top (where the stings contact), making it a defined edge as Marshall talked about in the video with Rob Scallon. With a quick bit of filling on the nut, I managed to get it playing super easy, no fret buzz or intonation issues, and ending with 3.1mm on the bass side and 2.9mm on the treble side, and since I have a very light playing style, its works a dream. All this I have learnt from both yourself (Brandon) and Marshall, Thank you for all the gems of knowledge, and been an inspiration for classical guitar players all over the world.
My fingers are hiding behind my thumb right now, peeking worriedly around the side.. I hear tiny cries of _"What the hell?"_ and _"Please Gods, No!"_ Seriously, that sounds so uncomfortable. I had a friend who played a left handed bass, but before that he learned on a right-handed guitar and just played with the strings upside down. When he was playing something complex, he didn't know music theory beyond basic Major and minor chord names, so I would just look at what he was doing and imagine play that upside down. It wasn't easy, but it helped me seeing how things worked from a different angle, and I think it helped my overall understanding a bit. Or at least kept me sober a little more often.
Thank you. I have only now (after 30 years) realised how high my action was on my classical (bought from new). 4.5mm - 4.5mm . Have now rectified and wow! What a difference.
Excellent info and well presented. This is stuff that every guitarist should learn, even if they never attempt to do any of the work themselves, so they know what problems to look out for.
I actually ended up changing my string tension after watching a video where you mentioned light tension string. I had no idea that existed and it has made quite a difference in my playing, made it more comfortable, and I realized the strings weren't exactly replaced right either. Thank you for all the videos you make with Marshall. They are always so educational and it heightens my interest in the guitar so much more! Can't wait to see more and hopefully I'll get to be there for your class next month!
Thanks for sharing guys! I have a Cordoba C7 that I was about to return because it was not very playable due to the high action; I followed these simple steps and WOW what a difference! I can not thank you enough!
I also gotten myself a C7, and the action is almost 5mm! Funny that you also experienced it. I’m totally new to playing guitar, but this step seems like an easy DIY.
Very helpful and just when I needed exactly this information. Thank you! Let me suggest using a high quality odorless sewing machine oil instead of 3 in 1 which makes my practice room smell like an oily garage. I always oil my machine heads when I change strings.
Hey Brandon, I'm a big fan of you. I'm from Albania and I play the guitar. I also play a traditional albanian instrument called çifteli. I would love it if you did a review on this instrument like you did with the oud. I promise that it will not disappoint. Thank you and take care!
Literally got a new guitar to learn on and thankfully had a friend recommend I have it looked over, and thankfully I had a friend who is also a luthier take care of it for me! Great timing on the video!
Talk about the sorrows of play ability; I bought a brand new guitar in 1978 - just like the one you are holding Brandon - though mine is a 1975 Ramirez East Indies A1 blue boarder label imported by Antigua Casa Sherry Brener Ltd (Chicago) which I bought in San Diego (btw the number under the fret board is #7). Though I loved the guitar initially it turned out the neck had a whooptie doo (was bent or shall we say had a scoop). Over a relatively long period of time I just sort of lived with it and then later bought a Ramirez Brazilian from my teacher Vincenzo Macaluso in Thousand Oaks thus favoring it and kinda setting the 1975 aside though luckily I did not sell it though I almost did. Eventually after talking to various repair guys I turned the 1975 over to Yuris Zelts at Blue Guitar in San Diego who "heat bent" the neck. The result was amazing as the 1975 blew away the Brazilian, which I subsequently sold and, though this was done like 20 years ago, the neck is still perfect. Much later with a different guitar I discovered a similar problem though it was fixed much differently. Through James Tyler my teacher at USC I obtained an ~1830s vintage Colin French Parlor guitar. Long story short after dealing with other problems it turned out the neck on it too had a whooptie doo. So, I took it to a good friend and luthier here in Crete who, whilst I watched, trussed the neck up in a vise and a jig and then amazingly laided down a bead of Super Glue on either side of each fret. He let is sit for about a half hour while we drank a little Tskoudia and then, taking the neck out of the jig, the neck was restored to perfect and has remained so. So, there are many ways to skin the play ability cat Brandon!
Solid beginner info!!! I wish this was available way back when I started!...I once over sanded a slotted saddle made out of hyena bone on 56 japanese classical!....even flamenco players would say no bueno! I shimmed it up with a few layers of shaved spent gift card plastic and was good to go! I've also heard heard of builders using aluminum as it's easier to add and take away to obtain the perfect balance...
Ever since that video with the $300 Yamaha that was set up properly, I've really been wanting a Yamaha flamenco guitar. This video will help should I ever get one!
Thank you so much for this very helpful information. My guitar has pretty good playability, especially down at the nut. It has a bit higher action as you go up the fretboard, but thankfully, it's not bad at all. Still, it's good to know that an adjustment can be made if needed. Thanks again, guys!
That was helpful - thank you so much. I have one guitar that measures fine for action on the 12th fret, but turns out was too high at the nut. Your guidance helped me make the changes at the nut, and it has made a big difference! Hats off to you gents! 🙏
Thought I knew all of this but watched anyway because your stuff is great. Why did I never think of lubricating tuners? What an idiot! Definitely doing that now!
I got my 750€ Walden CG570CEB set up 4 or 5 years ago (guitar is over 10 years old). Lowered the action considerably by lowering both nut and sadle AND sanding down the frets a little. After I put some really good strings on it I could not believe just how good it played. Yes, it does buzz if you hammer it, but it just plays to easy now.. much better than many guitars 5 times its price. I'll have to change frets in a while because I tend to pit them fairly quickly, and I'll maybe put some better electronics into it (it's electro-acoustic), but other than that.. perfect guitar for me.
A couple of questions for Marshall, please. Polishing the nut slot: I assume you were using a wound string? Second, you determined that the saddle was a little high by measuring it above the 12th fret. Is there a simple rule of thumb for height above the first fret to determine correct nut slot height? You just seemed to say that it seemed okay as it was, but how would you know if it were too high?
thanks for the method of lowering the strings....the string used to polish the nut slots..you didn't identify if it's a cotton kite string or a certain guitar string..would you? thanks
Marshall. You are the MAN. I've watched countless videos trying to find the best and most concise tutorials for guitar maintenance and you just earned the number one spot. THANK YOU so much for this video, Brandon. Special thanks to Marshall as well. 🙏
My main guitar is an Ibanez AEL30, which I purchased in 2007. I used it for my classical guitar lessons (no fingernails). I believe I had been playing for 6 months or more, and happen to be at the guitar store where I was taking lessons. I happen to show the store owner the callouses I developed on the tips of my fingers on my fretboard hand. They were the type of dark dead skin callouses you get if you use a shovel on a regular basis without gloves. Based on the shocked look on his face I do not think the store owner ever saw anything like it. He let me know the guitar needed to be setup. I also have a cheap $100 Takamine that I use (primarily) for finger exercises. I had it set up as well, but I am sorry I did. I would recommend that if you have a cheap practice/exercises guitar, keep it close to the factory setup. This will build hand strength and it toughens your fingertips. Also, it makes it more likely that you will be able to play any guitar, regardless of the setup. If all your guitars have perfect setup, picking out you next guitar might be a frustrating experience.
interesting, so your saying that the tiny flamenco guitar i never knew how to tune was not in fact indicative of what a guitar learning journey might be like... is 32 too late to learn? lets find out! but ill make sure i start out this time with a setup that will help not hinder. Thanks to both of you, great informative video as always. i always come away feeling more hopeful about the possibilities
It's never too late to learn. I was known as a shredder in my teens and by the time I was in my 20's I was transcribing Bach and Paganini violin for electric guitar. Back then I played or studied music at least 8 hours per day. In the 90's though they said I played too good and to knock it off. Instead I knocked them off and took up playing less rock, metal, and classical, and didn't practice much if at all, though I was learning more styles. Then in my 40's I started practicing about 4 hours a day, but was practicing smarter and was soon able to play faster and more precise than I'd ever been able to do before. These days I'm mostly learning a ton of music theory from YT videos. So yes, the age thing only matters if you have arthritis or something debilitating. Even then, some people overcome such things... Andres Segovia was an amazing classical guitarist even in his 90's. Django Reinhardt saved his little brother from a fire, and in the process burned off the third and forth fingers of his fret hand down to just the first digit. He is considered the premier Gypsy Jazz guitarist in the world. Tony Iommi the guitarist for Black Sabbath on his last day at work just a couple of weeks before their first tour, had his middle and ring fingers (most of the first joint) chopped off by a steel cutter. He melted plastic pens to shape new finger tips, and glued them on. Last year I had something (they haven't figured out the problem still) cause massive pain, swelling, and stiffness in my hands to the point where I could barely dress myself and could only play a couple of notes on the high string. I refused to just give up though, and kept patiently stretching my fingers a tiny bit more each day. I often thought about those three when it was really bad. Now I can play most scales, and even a couple of violin parts. But I can't play even most of the open string chords like D, G, E, and C. I may never be able to play barre chords again too, but I'm not giving up on that either. In the meantime I find some work arounds.
Anyway, I guess my point is that where there's a will, there's more often a way. _The optimist is far more likely to keep trying, thus drastically increasing their chances for success._ _Whereas the pessimist is far more likely to just give up, thus ensuring their own failure._ This is the incredible power of _Hope._ Never lose it.😊
If you can afford it, a really good professional setup can make a guitar feel amazing. If they're really good at it, the difference so great that I would always do that if I could afford to. Instead I have to do te best I can myself. It's better than nothing, but after experiencing one of the best (the guy who invented fanned frets), it's just not the same.
Thank you @brandonacker for this segment. I enjoyed very much. Just subscribed to your channel although I have watched many of your TH-cam videos. Nw I won't miss anything, Thanks again. Martin
Thanks for the video, Brandon. I have a question for Marshall, though. I'd like him to explain why he said, "You don't ever want to see a neck that's dead straight."
In case Marshall hasn't responded yet: not having the correct curve can cause fret buzz, or the string just "fretting out" so it doesn't sound the note and has no sustain at all. I can't explain exactly why though. I'm fairly certain the effect is more pronounced on an acoustic. You don't want a big curve though, just the right amount. I don't even know to correct that without a truss rod. It was something I hope Marshall talks about (haven't finished watching the video yet.. yea, I'm one of those people, lols).
@@aylbdrmadison1051 Thank you for your response, I appreciate it! I've studied guitar design and construction; built a couple of guitars ( one classical; one steel-string); and worked at an electric guitar factory. But I was never taught to look for a slight curve. Because you're right: too big of a curve; and you're not ever going to be able to stay in tune. 😊
I would very much like to come by to see you(r shop) and perhaps purchase a good guitar. Unfortunately I am European, and you live on a whole other continent than mine...-/ But, very good videos you are doing with the Ackerman. You (seem to) know what you are doing!
Thanks Marshall, very useful. My guitar's action is 4mm at fret 12 and I've always felt that it made things tricky around fret 9 upwards so I'll have a go at lowering it (probably in stages). Brandon, did you notice any difference in playability after Marshall's tweaks?
_"probably in stages"_ I'm no lutheir, but was a professional woodworker for 3 decades. And wanted to point out that in case anyone else was wondering, that is absolutely correct if you're just starting out. Also, I'll just paste the main comment I left.. [Quote] When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it. Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that. Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂 [End quote]
Yes, immerse yourself in tango music for a week. Pay attention to what makes a tango a tango. What does the dance look like? Can you do the motions yourself? Then try to bring what you learn into the feel of the piece :) This will help with your conception and feel of the piece but of course the best way to improve is to have a teacher. I have great teachers you can work with one-on-one on Zoom at my online school Arpeggiato.com if you are ever ready for that. Good luck! Brandon
You can actually lubricate the capo's "string slots" with graphite. In fact graphite it's a dry lube and just scratching it with a little bit of pencil will be great! If you don't believe me try your self!😉
Let's say you have a guitar that already has a very low saddle that can't be lowered anymore without the strings touching the wood on the bridge but it still has a very high and very tight action? I bought a brand new and beautiful Yamaha solid top classical that had this very problem, paid 600 for it but the action was very high and very tight, so tight in fact that I had to tune it down a whole step just to be able to play it, and there was absolutely no room to adjust it any lower because the saddle had been shaved down to just a sliver above the bridge. I'm thinking it was something to do with the way they braced this particular instrument but it was unplayable and I returned it. This was unusual because most guitars today even lower-end student models leave a little room for adjustment and are not this difficult to play.
I have a "cheap" that was surprisingly good when I found it in a store and since had 3 decades to age like fine wine. Since I also like to play wild and pretty much everywhere Iand found possible replacements online (Eterna EC 10) I'll love over an actual high priced, artist build guitar. But; The action still seems to be great, yet to make it even a bit better, I'd like to change the nut and saddle to bone ones (currently pvc) and the nut is glued in. What is the best way to loosen it without hurting the rest of the guitar?
I inherited a Cordoba Solista CD and took it to my guitar tech for a tune up, who does excellent work on my electric guitars and Taylor steel string acoustics. He said everything out there about a 3-4 mm range of string height on a classical guitar at the E strings on the 12th fret is nonsense, and it should be more like 1.5-2 mm. Something about the higher height is because of underbow and with a quality guitar like I have he can easily make it 1.5-2 mm with no buzzing. I am new to nylon string guitar playing and his advice seems to contradict everything out there, but like I said, he has never failed me when it comes to my other guitars. Any thoughts about what he is telling me?
It seems to me that he is speaking out of his comfort zone. I've never played a classical guitar with less than 2mm at the 12th fret 1st string. It would buzz like crazy. 2.5 is the lowest I've ever seen. If you can get that low, great but most guitars you'll find sit happily around 3mm and then the 6th string 12th fret will be a bit higher because of the thick string.
The algorithm is trying to hide this vid bc i searched for how to improv cheap classical guitar and this was only a suggestion out of a string of videos. Not in the scrolling and scrolling of result.
In action bass the height becomes 3.3mm, then How is the height of the action on the treble side? This video is very helpful, I’ve been looking for where the right high action, I want to try it, thank you for sharing it 😊
No one is understanding the point of filing the nut. You did not make it clear that the FACE of the nut has to be the HIGHEST POINT IN THE SLOT, and that you are filing down only everything BEHIND the front most point of the slot. Also, point out that if the front of the slot is too low, material will have to be added to the bottom of the slot, after it has a flat surface to bond to.
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Learn classical guitar with my online course! 🎸 Classicalguitar-pro.com
-Your first pieces
-6 hours, 53 HD videos
-PDFs, Downloads, and Quizzes
-Simulated recital
-Access to Brandon's feedback in an exclusive Facebook group
This was 1 of the most straight forward, easy to understand, home adjustments for guitars I've seen. Thank you much
Marshall is so kind, friendly, professional, and exquisitely knowledgeable. I always love seeing videos of his workshop. Thanks for the fantastic video!
Gay
he is also very funny
@@chuckminzenberger7590 he's giving us all a gay old time
The camera loves him, the guy's an absolute character
He's dam cool. He set up my guitar several times when I lived in Chicago. Marshall if you're reading this hope you are doing well haha
Mehdi J
It was great having you over!!!
Marshall, why do you say that you never want to see a neck that is dead straight? What are you looking for, then? Thanks.
my dad just gifted me his (very old) nylon string guitar. this videos timing could not be better!
When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it.
Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that.
Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂
Thanks for your tip! I too wondered about shaving the bottom of the bridge and thought that maybe I might use Vernier calipers to measure the bridge (and nut) height's progress.
The most import thing that people forget to mention: You cannot determine the action on your guitar or take any meaningful measurements unless your guitar is IN TUNE. Your guitar has to be IN TUNE every step of the way during a setup and you need to keep RETUNING it after every little adjustment. If the guitar is out of tune you cannot take any meaningful measurements and you will make a mess out of the setup.
ThanQ, I shall remember that.-)
Wow, I was literally examining one of my guitars the other day and thinking,
“gosh, my action sure is pretty extreme, I wonder what I could do to modify it.”
Look at you guys coming in to save the day
Nice!
I had to do this to a new guitar only 2 weeks ago, only that I bought a left-handed model (so the shop told me) however it was a right-handed model with the strings swapped round. This meant the saddle was way to high on the treble side and to low of the bass side (the saddle was setup with a ramp up to the bass side and once the strings were swapped around it was horrible).
I took the saddle and flipped it around then used a file to re-cut the top (where the stings contact), making it a defined edge as Marshall talked about in the video with Rob Scallon.
With a quick bit of filling on the nut, I managed to get it playing super easy, no fret buzz or intonation issues, and ending with 3.1mm on the bass side and 2.9mm on the treble side, and since I have a very light playing style, its works a dream.
All this I have learnt from both yourself (Brandon) and Marshall, Thank you for all the gems of knowledge, and been an inspiration for classical guitar players all over the world.
My fingers are hiding behind my thumb right now, peeking worriedly around the side..
I hear tiny cries of _"What the hell?"_ and _"Please Gods, No!"_
Seriously, that sounds so uncomfortable. I had a friend who played a left handed bass, but before that he learned on a right-handed guitar and just played with the strings upside down. When he was playing something complex, he didn't know music theory beyond basic Major and minor chord names, so I would just look at what he was doing and imagine play that upside down.
It wasn't easy, but it helped me seeing how things worked from a different angle, and I think it helped my overall understanding a bit. Or at least kept me sober a little more often.
Thank you. I have only now (after 30 years) realised how high my action was on my classical (bought from new). 4.5mm - 4.5mm . Have now rectified and wow! What a difference.
Glad it helped!
Excellent info and well presented. This is stuff that every guitarist should learn, even if they never attempt to do any of the work themselves, so they know what problems to look out for.
I actually ended up changing my string tension after watching a video where you mentioned light tension string. I had no idea that existed and it has made quite a difference in my playing, made it more comfortable, and I realized the strings weren't exactly replaced right either.
Thank you for all the videos you make with Marshall. They are always so educational and it heightens my interest in the guitar so much more! Can't wait to see more and hopefully I'll get to be there for your class next month!
These guys are so amazing to watch when they work together
Thanks for sharing guys! I have a Cordoba C7 that I was about to return because it was not very playable due to the high action; I followed these simple steps and WOW what a difference! I can not thank you enough!
I'm happy to hear that!
I also gotten myself a C7, and the action is almost 5mm! Funny that you also experienced it. I’m totally new to playing guitar, but this step seems like an easy DIY.
Marshall the coolest luthier out there… thanks for this great partnership. Such a wealth of knowledge between you two.
Very helpful and just when I needed exactly this information. Thank you! Let me suggest using a high quality odorless sewing machine oil instead of 3 in 1 which makes my practice room smell like an oily garage. I always oil my machine heads when I change strings.
Join me on Zoom July 15th for a guitar masterclass: arpeggiato.com/events/
1:22 : As an old metalhead like me, Brandon knows about needing a Marshall.
Damn Marshall rocking the Patek Tiffany Nautilus 😮
I'm so confused, I thought thats what it was too, but if you zoom in, there is none of the Patek branding on the face.
Hey Brandon, I'm a big fan of you. I'm from Albania and I play the guitar. I also play a traditional albanian instrument called çifteli. I would love it if you did a review on this instrument like you did with the oud. I promise that it will not disappoint. Thank you and take care!
I love this luthier, a trusted source for sure. Can't wait to get the action my classical set up tonight!!
Great little video. Loving the content recently Brandon, thanks! And thanks to Marshall for teaching us a thing or two :)
I wish at least a good part of my three decades as a professional woodworker had been learning to be a luthier.
Lol I just keep staring at the Tiffany coloured Nautilus 😂 exquisite taste Marshall!
Is that true, it’s worth around 2.8mil! Wow
I can’t believe he’s wearing this. He’s very succeeding I guess
That caught my eye as well, but I can't see any Patek name on the dial, I wonder if it is real?
@@allan2098 Indeed! It looks good though :)
This is amazing, thank you so much. I've played on and off for years but never done my own bridge or nut work. Let the experimenting begin!!!!
Literally got a new guitar to learn on and thankfully had a friend recommend I have it looked over, and thankfully I had a friend who is also a luthier take care of it for me! Great timing on the video!
Talk about the sorrows of play ability; I bought a brand new guitar in 1978 - just like the one you are holding Brandon - though mine is a 1975 Ramirez East Indies A1 blue boarder label imported by Antigua Casa Sherry Brener Ltd (Chicago) which I bought in San Diego (btw the number under the fret board is #7). Though I loved the guitar initially it turned out the neck had a whooptie doo (was bent or shall we say had a scoop). Over a relatively long period of time I just sort of lived with it and then later bought a Ramirez Brazilian from my teacher Vincenzo Macaluso in Thousand Oaks thus favoring it and kinda setting the 1975 aside though luckily I did not sell it though I almost did.
Eventually after talking to various repair guys I turned the 1975 over to Yuris Zelts at Blue Guitar in San Diego who "heat bent" the neck. The result was amazing as the 1975 blew away the Brazilian, which I subsequently sold and, though this was done like 20 years ago, the neck is still perfect.
Much later with a different guitar I discovered a similar problem though it was fixed much differently. Through James Tyler my teacher at USC I obtained an ~1830s vintage Colin French Parlor guitar. Long story short after dealing with other problems it turned out the neck on it too had a whooptie doo. So, I took it to a good friend and luthier here in Crete who, whilst I watched, trussed the neck up in a vise and a jig and then amazingly laided down a bead of Super Glue on either side of each fret. He let is sit for about a half hour while we drank a little Tskoudia and then, taking the neck out of the jig, the neck was restored to perfect and has remained so.
So, there are many ways to skin the play ability cat Brandon!
cheers! I did it on my Cuenca 50R n it is now a lot easier to play and the sound has improved too! 😊
Always love videos featuring Marshall!!!
Step #4 was a nice new tip. Hadn't thought of adding a mild abrasive (car polish) to the old bass string to polish the nut slots.
Solid beginner info!!! I wish this was available way back when I started!...I once over sanded a slotted saddle made out of hyena bone on 56 japanese classical!....even flamenco players would say no bueno! I shimmed it up with a few layers of shaved spent gift card plastic and was good to go! I've also heard heard of builders using aluminum as it's easier to add and take away to obtain the perfect balance...
Ever since that video with the $300 Yamaha that was set up properly, I've really been wanting a Yamaha flamenco guitar. This video will help should I ever get one!
Thank you so much for this very helpful information. My guitar has pretty good playability, especially down at the nut. It has a bit higher action as you go up the fretboard, but thankfully, it's not bad at all. Still, it's good to know that an adjustment can be made if needed. Thanks again, guys!
Thanks for the tips for diy set up
That was helpful - thank you so much. I have one guitar that measures fine for action on the 12th fret, but turns out was too high at the nut. Your guidance helped me make the changes at the nut, and it has made a big difference! Hats off to you gents! 🙏
Thought I knew all of this but watched anyway because your stuff is great. Why did I never think of lubricating tuners? What an idiot! Definitely doing that now!
That Tiffany nautilus on Marshall’s wrist…what a baller 😂
I got my 750€ Walden CG570CEB set up 4 or 5 years ago (guitar is over 10 years old). Lowered the action considerably by lowering both nut and sadle AND sanding down the frets a little. After I put some really good strings on it I could not believe just how good it played. Yes, it does buzz if you hammer it, but it just plays to easy now.. much better than many guitars 5 times its price. I'll have to change frets in a while because I tend to pit them fairly quickly, and I'll maybe put some better electronics into it (it's electro-acoustic), but other than that.. perfect guitar for me.
A couple of questions for Marshall, please. Polishing the nut slot: I assume you were using a wound string? Second, you determined that the saddle was a little high by measuring it above the 12th fret. Is there a simple rule of thumb for height above the first fret to determine correct nut slot height? You just seemed to say that it seemed okay as it was, but how would you know if it were too high?
thanks for the method of lowering the strings....the string used to polish the nut slots..you didn't identify if it's a cotton kite string or a certain guitar string..would you? thanks
Excellent video! Marshall is a maven! Thank you, Brandon!
Just what I needed, thank you!
Marshall. You are the MAN. I've watched countless videos trying to find the best and most concise tutorials for guitar maintenance and you just earned the number one spot. THANK YOU so much for this video, Brandon. Special thanks to Marshall as well. 🙏
My main guitar is an Ibanez AEL30, which I purchased in 2007. I used it for my classical guitar lessons (no fingernails). I believe I had been playing for 6 months or more, and happen to be at the guitar store where I was taking lessons. I happen to show the store owner the callouses I developed on the tips of my fingers on my fretboard hand. They were the type of dark dead skin callouses you get if you use a shovel on a regular basis without gloves. Based on the shocked look on his face I do not think the store owner ever saw anything like it. He let me know the guitar needed to be setup. I also have a cheap $100 Takamine that I use (primarily) for finger exercises. I had it set up as well, but I am sorry I did. I would recommend that if you have a cheap practice/exercises guitar, keep it close to the factory setup. This will build hand strength and it toughens your fingertips. Also, it makes it more likely that you will be able to play any guitar, regardless of the setup. If all your guitars have perfect setup, picking out you next guitar might be a frustrating experience.
Marshall's the best, thanks to both of you!
Thanks for that polishing technic on the nut 😊😊😊
Verry Nice video! Thanks to both of you
Great video - Marshal is master class for sure - thx
Getting close to the 5K viewers! Looking forward to playing that guitar!!!! ❤
Marshall is my new superhero.
Well done, concise, and easy to follow video!
I love to make these litle adjusts im my guitar.
Fascinating great advice thank you
interesting, so your saying that the tiny flamenco guitar i never knew how to tune was not in fact indicative of what a guitar learning journey might be like... is 32 too late to learn? lets find out! but ill make sure i start out this time with a setup that will help not hinder. Thanks to both of you, great informative video as always. i always come away feeling more hopeful about the possibilities
It's never too late to learn. I was known as a shredder in my teens and by the time I was in my 20's I was transcribing Bach and Paganini violin for electric guitar. Back then I played or studied music at least 8 hours per day. In the 90's though they said I played too good and to knock it off.
Instead I knocked them off and took up playing less rock, metal, and classical, and didn't practice much if at all, though I was learning more styles. Then in my 40's I started practicing about 4 hours a day, but was practicing smarter and was soon able to play faster and more precise than I'd ever been able to do before.
These days I'm mostly learning a ton of music theory from YT videos.
So yes, the age thing only matters if you have arthritis or something debilitating.
Even then, some people overcome such things...
Andres Segovia was an amazing classical guitarist even in his 90's.
Django Reinhardt saved his little brother from a fire, and in the process burned off the third and forth fingers of his fret hand down to just the first digit. He is considered the premier Gypsy Jazz guitarist in the world.
Tony Iommi the guitarist for Black Sabbath on his last day at work just a couple of weeks before their first tour, had his middle and ring fingers (most of the first joint) chopped off by a steel cutter. He melted plastic pens to shape new finger tips, and glued them on.
Last year I had something (they haven't figured out the problem still) cause massive pain, swelling, and stiffness in my hands to the point where I could barely dress myself and could only play a couple of notes on the high string.
I refused to just give up though, and kept patiently stretching my fingers a tiny bit more each day. I often thought about those three when it was really bad.
Now I can play most scales, and even a couple of violin parts. But I can't play even most of the open string chords like D, G, E, and C. I may never be able to play barre chords again too, but I'm not giving up on that either. In the meantime I find some work arounds.
Anyway, I guess my point is that where there's a will, there's more often a way.
_The optimist is far more likely to keep trying, thus drastically increasing their chances for success._
_Whereas the pessimist is far more likely to just give up, thus ensuring their own failure._
This is the incredible power of _Hope._ Never lose it.😊
I'm 70 and learning, so just be sure to practice smart.
@@aylbdrmadison1051 appreciate the words and best of luck with your own playing, hope you have plenty of music in your future!
Just did this a week ago. $80 at my Luthier. Wish I saw this video first.
If you can afford it, a really good professional setup can make a guitar feel amazing. If they're really good at it, the difference so great that I would always do that if I could afford to.
Instead I have to do te best I can myself. It's better than nothing, but after experiencing one of the best (the guy who invented fanned frets), it's just not the same.
Is the setup at my local guitar center a “professional” job or is it a guy like me who watched a TH-cam video 🤔
Thanks for this. I've owned a couple of classical guitars where the strings were too high. Didn't know this could be corrected.
Very useful
Nice video!
3:42 Omg i glued mine,i will remove the glue now 🙏
Do it, or he's coming for you! ;-)
I'll try to hold Marshall off for a few minutes but you better act fast!
@@brandonacker right away sir🏃🏃🏃
Thank you!!!
Thank you ♥
Great info, thanks a mil fellas.
Thank you vary helpful :)
That's a nice watch, Marshall!
I thought it was a Patek Nautilus Tiffany Blue for a second.
@@felix111 That's it!
5:24 very carefully work the nut
Greatly appreciated your video very helpful
Love the business card trick. Fun fact bowling alleys have poker card shims
Thank you, that was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Please post a performance video of tango en skai
Thanks, this is helpful. What about truss rod adjustement? My Cordoba C7 has a truss rod and I tried to fiddle with it once (I was very careful).
@marshallbrune
thank you so much! Great work!
This is an excellent video 👏👏👏
Wish you were close to the Boston area. :D
Thank you @brandonacker for this segment. I enjoyed very much. Just subscribed to your channel although I have watched many of your TH-cam videos. Nw I won't miss anything, Thanks again. Martin
well done
Very helpful.
Thanks for the video, Brandon. I have a question for Marshall, though. I'd like him to explain why he said, "You don't ever want to see a neck that's dead straight."
@marshallbrune I'll let him respond.
In case Marshall hasn't responded yet: not having the correct curve can cause fret buzz, or the string just "fretting out" so it doesn't sound the note and has no sustain at all. I can't explain exactly why though. I'm fairly certain the effect is more pronounced on an acoustic. You don't want a big curve though, just the right amount. I don't even know to correct that without a truss rod. It was something I hope Marshall talks about (haven't finished watching the video yet.. yea, I'm one of those people, lols).
@@aylbdrmadison1051 Thank you for your response, I appreciate it! I've studied guitar design and construction; built a couple of guitars ( one classical; one steel-string); and worked at an electric guitar factory. But I was never taught to look for a slight curve. Because you're right: too big of a curve; and you're not ever going to be able to stay in tune. 😊
3:01
Literally, just watched a video where a “master guitar tech“ said that looking down the neck was useless. 😂
Thank you
Superb
I would very much like to come by to see you(r shop) and perhaps purchase a good guitar.
Unfortunately I am European, and you live on a whole other continent than mine...-/
But, very good videos you are doing with the Ackerman. You (seem to) know what you are doing!
very helpful
Thanks Marshall, very useful. My guitar's action is 4mm at fret 12 and I've always felt that it made things tricky around fret 9 upwards so I'll have a go at lowering it (probably in stages). Brandon, did you notice any difference in playability after Marshall's tweaks?
_"probably in stages"_ I'm no lutheir, but was a professional woodworker for 3 decades. And wanted to point out that in case anyone else was wondering, that is absolutely correct if you're just starting out. Also, I'll just paste the main comment I left..
[Quote] When sanding down the bottom of the saddle, it's a good idea to mark the bottom edge so you can see how much you're sanding off. With time you can do as Marshall does it. But in the beginning having a reference is important so you don't take off too much. Just run a small felt marker lightly along the bottom corners. If you want to take off a little more on one end, just press a little harder gradually as you head to the other side when marking it.
Better yet, use painters tape (usually blue) to cover the upper part so the mark doesn't spread up too high. Make sure the tape is exactly to the edge of where you want to stop. Then lightly run the marker across the bottom corners. Better still, use only the tape, but you need a sharp eye for that.
Note: I'm *not* a luthier (though I'd love to learn), but I was a professional woodworker for 3 decades, and as a guitarist and instructor for 4 decades, I know a few things about setup. Just enough so I haven't forgotten what it's like being a novice. But if someone like Marshall says I'm wrong, it's probably wise to assume they know better. 🙂
[End quote]
@@aylbdrmadison1051 Thanks. Sounds like good advice.
So u did not try the guitar after?
Any tips for playing tango en skaï without a teacher?
Yes, immerse yourself in tango music for a week. Pay attention to what makes a tango a tango. What does the dance look like? Can you do the motions yourself?
Then try to bring what you learn into the feel of the piece :)
This will help with your conception and feel of the piece but of course the best way to improve is to have a teacher. I have great teachers you can work with one-on-one on Zoom at my online school Arpeggiato.com if you are ever ready for that.
Good luck!
Brandon
@@brandonacker thank you very much!
Good video.
You can actually lubricate the capo's "string slots" with graphite.
In fact graphite it's a dry lube and just scratching it with a little bit of pencil will be great!
If you don't believe me try your self!😉
You mean the nut slots. Yes you can put graphite in them.
@@brandonacker yeah exactly! Greate video anyway, I really love your channel!
Ouah, I'll go seeking a luthier.
Marshall wears a fine watch
Let's say you have a guitar that already has a very low saddle that can't be lowered anymore without the strings touching the wood on the bridge but it still has a very high and very tight action? I bought a brand new and beautiful Yamaha solid top classical that had this very problem, paid 600 for it but the action was very high and very tight, so tight in fact that I had to tune it down a whole step just to be able to play it, and there was absolutely no room to adjust it any lower because the saddle had been shaved down to just a sliver above the bridge. I'm thinking it was something to do with the way they braced this particular instrument but it was unplayable and I returned it. This was unusual because most guitars today even lower-end student models leave a little room for adjustment and are not this difficult to play.
Marshall, are you wearing a Patek to do wood work?!
Bro casually wearing a Tiffany nautilus!!!
I have a "cheap" that was surprisingly good when I found it in a store and since had 3 decades to age like fine wine. Since I also like to play wild and pretty much everywhere Iand found possible replacements online (Eterna EC 10) I'll love over an actual high priced, artist build guitar. But; The action still seems to be great, yet to make it even a bit better, I'd like to change the nut and saddle to bone ones (currently pvc) and the nut is glued in. What is the best way to loosen it without hurting the rest of the guitar?
I inherited a Cordoba Solista CD and took it to my guitar tech for a tune up, who does excellent work on my electric guitars and Taylor steel string acoustics. He said everything out there about a 3-4 mm range of string height on a classical guitar at the E strings on the 12th fret is nonsense, and it should be more like 1.5-2 mm. Something about the higher height is because of underbow and with a quality guitar like I have he can easily make it 1.5-2 mm with no buzzing. I am new to nylon string guitar playing and his advice seems to contradict everything out there, but like I said, he has never failed me when it comes to my other guitars. Any thoughts about what he is telling me?
It seems to me that he is speaking out of his comfort zone. I've never played a classical guitar with less than 2mm at the 12th fret 1st string. It would buzz like crazy. 2.5 is the lowest I've ever seen. If you can get that low, great but most guitars you'll find sit happily around 3mm and then the 6th string 12th fret will be a bit higher because of the thick string.
Some local guitar shops and luthiers recommend using metal polish on the frets and lemon oil on the fretboard (both sparingly). What is your advice?
oh wow no lengthy intro nice
The algorithm is trying to hide this vid bc i searched for how to improv cheap classical guitar and this was only a suggestion out of a string of videos. Not in the scrolling and scrolling of result.
Brandon, how come you aren't on spotify?
When is Marshall Brune coming to a European expo????????????
A question, why would a little furniture Polish be bad.
I've got a question, is it necessary for a classical guitar to have a truss rod?
In action bass the height becomes 3.3mm, then How is the height of the action on the treble side? This video is very helpful, I’ve been looking for where the right high action, I want to try it, thank you for sharing it 😊
Less than the bass on the treble. Ideal for me is something like 2.5mm on the treble
@@brandonacker thank you for replying
Is the business card shim ok for permanent or would you suggest eventually getting a new nut?
Permanent has been fine for me. I dont hear a difference
It's always better to have a properly made nut. Business cards, as well as the cigarette foil trick should be temporary.
No one is understanding the point of filing the nut. You did not make it clear that the FACE of the nut has to be the HIGHEST POINT IN THE SLOT, and that you are filing down only everything BEHIND the front most point of the slot. Also, point out that if the front of the slot is too low, material will have to be added to the bottom of the slot, after it has a flat surface to bond to.
Even the jokes are educative.