Disconnect rear hoses in the middle. They are separating by lifting quick connect connectors on border of metal part of the hose and rubber. So you can work with the unit on a bench. I disconnected it by hands. th-cam.com/video/7IoS14QVl5w/w-d-xo.html
I hear you but, in my mind, I was introducing more leak risk as so many have struggled with these quick connects and they looked a little mangled to begin with. I understand how that might be a better way for some. Thanks for your thoughts!
@@DWraysGarage I see no way to set the assembly in those rails, on the bench I was able to torque the hoses and all other hydraulic connections. In the front I had to torque everything while connected, after first crazy ride I had the hydraulic liquid everywhere, didn't torque it well from first time. After changing the rings - car is sagging on other wheel.🤣
Advice to anyone doing this job careful with the high-pressure lines that go into the aluminum valve block, the delicate get them started by hand very carefully, they can be strict very easy, also cleanliness as everyone knows when it comes to the ABC system, great job love your channel.
Thank you for this video. It gave me a lot of confidence in taking on this job. I have the same sagging issue. I took my time... Removed valve block one day (unscrewing all connected pipes), replaced the o-rings next day, installed the day after. Through out the process I was always thinking on how I can easily put it back together while in the cavity (as shown in video). On the 2nd day I went back to the car and I was able to easily disconnect the 4 pipes from the 4 hoses via the quick disconnect by simply using a needle nose pliers (no need for the expensive pry tool). I guess it's because there was no more pressure in the lines. This allowed me to reconnect all the pipes to the valve block outside the car. On the 3rd day I simply slide the unit in place and attached the hoses. BTW - I noticed all my original white o-rings was perfectly fine and looked a lot better than the replacement the kit came with. So I just replace the black o-rings. Hope it does not come back an bite me. Thank you again for this video
Thank you so much for posting this. My SL55 has been dropping for years and this has given me the inspiration to get on and rebuild my rear valve block (front already done) to see if it cures the problem once and for all.
Mark each of the electrical connections on the Aluminum block with a black Sharpie, before attempting disassembly. The short valves seem to twist 45 degrees and the longer Solenoids turn a full 90 degrees.
Thank you so much for posting this, i have an 07 s65 and I haven’t done any abc parts yet, on;y changed the fluid and i have 108k for miles on her so I’m sure i will need something changed soon. I’m not very handy so I’m glad i got to see you do it so i know its too much for me, ill probably buy rebuilt, thanks again and best of luck! Beautiful car!
Great video thank u. I had this issues with the front of my sl 55 few years ago, had them replaced problem solved. Now I have the rear of my car doing this 🙄 have to get that done as well.
Get some brass brazing rod and fabricate your own custom picks is an easy fix. Shouldn't use steel picks with o-rings Ever. The nylon o-ring backers are critically important and installation should be slid on without expanding the I.D.
How have you had any fluid leaks since you bolted everything back together? The bolts on the lines seems delicate to get them to resurface properly again. I’ll have to do this on my 2003 SL55 as well eventually. It sags after a few weeks of being stationary, not too bad… YET
All the seals were in good shape. I think it would only leak if you cross-threaded one of the screw nipples. They sit pretty deep in the valve block so, if in correctly, should be solid. Of course, if any of the fittings are shot then it's a different story. With 3000psi going thru this system, there won't be anything 'slow' about a failure in the lines.
I have the same problem with my SL55, the only thing im not sure is how many valve block do we have on this car? Since mine lower different corners each time. Do we have one on each wheels?
There are two valve blocks and 3 large accumulators. Valve blocks are front and rear located on driver's (left) side. My front valve block was replaced before I bought the car last summer.
I used this one - amzn.to/3rm6Rqc - but if I did it again, I'd likely spend the extra $20 for this one - amzn.to/3Kk0Jaw. Not sure if installer error (daughter may have compromised the PTFEs or if inferior kit, hard to say. Thanks for watching and hope video helps you. Be well. D
Disconnect rear hoses in the middle. They are separating by lifting quick connect connectors on border of metal part of the hose and rubber. So you can work with the unit on a bench. I disconnected it by hands. th-cam.com/video/7IoS14QVl5w/w-d-xo.html
I hear you but, in my mind, I was introducing more leak risk as so many have struggled with these quick connects and they looked a little mangled to begin with. I understand how that might be a better way for some. Thanks for your thoughts!
@@DWraysGarage I see no way to set the assembly in those rails, on the bench I was able to torque the hoses and all other hydraulic connections.
In the front I had to torque everything while connected, after first crazy ride I had the hydraulic liquid everywhere, didn't torque it well from first time.
After changing the rings - car is sagging on other wheel.🤣
Advice to anyone doing this job careful with the high-pressure lines that go into the aluminum valve block, the delicate get them started by hand very carefully, they can be strict very easy, also cleanliness as everyone knows when it comes to the ABC system, great job love your channel.
Thank you for this video. It gave me a lot of confidence in taking on this job. I have the same sagging issue.
I took my time... Removed valve block one day (unscrewing all connected pipes), replaced the o-rings next day, installed the day after. Through out the process I was always thinking on how I can easily put it back together while in the cavity (as shown in video). On the 2nd day I went back to the car and I was able to easily disconnect the 4 pipes from the 4 hoses via the quick disconnect by simply using a needle nose pliers (no need for the expensive pry tool). I guess it's because there was no more pressure in the lines. This allowed me to reconnect all the pipes to the valve block outside the car. On the 3rd day I simply slide the unit in place and attached the hoses.
BTW - I noticed all my original white o-rings was perfectly fine and looked a lot better than the replacement the kit came with. So I just replace the black o-rings. Hope it does not come back an bite me. Thank you again for this video
Thank you so much for posting this. My SL55 has been dropping for years and this has given me the inspiration to get on and rebuild my rear valve block (front already done) to see if it cures the problem once and for all.
Best of luck. I know it can be done!
Mark each of the electrical connections on the Aluminum block with a black Sharpie, before attempting disassembly. The short valves seem to twist 45 degrees and the longer Solenoids turn a full 90 degrees.
Nice amount of detail, thanks and a satisfying conclusion to have the car stay level.👍
Thank you so much for posting this, i have an 07 s65 and I haven’t done any abc parts yet, on;y changed the fluid and i have 108k for miles on her so I’m sure i will need something changed soon. I’m not very handy so I’m glad i got to see you do it so i know its too much for me, ill probably buy rebuilt, thanks again and best of luck! Beautiful car!
Well done! Man that is a good looking car.
Great video thank u. I had this issues with the front of my sl 55 few years ago, had them replaced problem solved. Now I have the rear of my car doing this 🙄 have to get that done as well.
Get some brass brazing rod and fabricate your own custom picks is an easy fix. Shouldn't use steel picks with o-rings Ever. The nylon o-ring backers are critically important and installation should be slid on without expanding the I.D.
Nicely done. QUESTION: Which strut(s) was drooping? Rears only?
Yes, rears only. Prior owner had the valve replaced for fronts the year prior.
How have you had any fluid leaks since you bolted everything back together? The bolts on the lines seems delicate to get them to resurface properly again. I’ll have to do this on my 2003 SL55 as well eventually. It sags after a few weeks of being stationary, not too bad… YET
All the seals were in good shape. I think it would only leak if you cross-threaded one of the screw nipples. They sit pretty deep in the valve block so, if in correctly, should be solid. Of course, if any of the fittings are shot then it's a different story. With 3000psi going thru this system, there won't be anything 'slow' about a failure in the lines.
I have the same problem with my SL55, the only thing im not sure is how many valve block do we have on this car? Since mine lower different corners each time. Do we have one on each wheels?
There are two valve blocks and 3 large accumulators. Valve blocks are front and rear located on driver's (left) side. My front valve block was replaced before I bought the car last summer.
@@DWraysGarage thank you! Since you have replaced the rings in the valve blocks did you had the same problem again ?
@@SkySemijon No, since valve block seals replaced, car stays up fine. It's been left for several days with no sag.
Great video, where did you get your ring kit from?
I used this one - amzn.to/3rm6Rqc - but if I did it again, I'd likely spend the extra $20 for this one - amzn.to/3Kk0Jaw. Not sure if installer error (daughter may have compromised the PTFEs or if inferior kit, hard to say. Thanks for watching and hope video helps you. Be well. D
What is the little black ball on the same sub assembly as the valve block and the accumulator?
It's called the 'center active body control accumulator'.
Why are you using the channel locks backwards 😂
Hi what is the spanner size for the hoses?
Can you do this by just jacking up the rear driver side or do all wheels need to be off the ground?
You could, yes.
I cringed every time you were pushing on the glass table
Gripping TV, right!?
👋👋😃
Does your wife know you are using her good glass table to work on car parts? I'm telling...
Keep quiet...or else! 😂