Hey Neil thanks for watching and subscribing! Love these cars. I hope to start doing some more content soon. I've had to move locations for The Cave but I'm getting set back up now :-)
Thank you for this video. I didn’t see it until after I replaced mine, but as you show not too difficult. I just rebuilt my CL55 and finally went out for a drive today and while the valve block replacement seems to be working fine, heard a big poof when I joined the highway and a bunch of abc fluid all over the under body. I have yet to take it to a mechanic but common sense tells me it’s the accumulator since it’s the only component that holds pressure in that driver side rear corner. Just looking for some professional confirmation as I don’t have any Mercedes mechanics in my home town area.
Accumulator is on passenger rear side this little one you see in this video is a pressure regulator and wouldn’t really be leaking unless you blew a hole in and I don’t think that would ever happen…..although all those lines running to the valve block can definitely blow out …..pull your cover and see which one blew… its normally the top one
Thanks. I forgot to mention that this code was persistent while I was rebuilding but thought it was negligible since some codes are on these cars which throw hundreds of codes sometimes. The code was C1345 Fault in component (Y36/2y1(Left rear suspension strut control valve). If you say the accumulator isn’t even on that side then it must be a line. I’ll check the lines tomorrow. I had the cover off on the drive but even still very unlikely that something hit that pressure regulator and probably is the line.
@@CLVannoy Is it not called a pulsation dampener not a pressure regulator? I’m going back and forth between what you are telling me and what an online mechanic is saying.
@@datazndood correct pulsation damper …….it’s job is to handle the spikes for the valve body ……if your dampener is bad it shouldn’t show leak externally unless it’s just loose on its line
I just replace the long hard line running from the rear valve block to front driver union block…..they sell these as two lines but just my upper hose blew I replace both though of course…..lucky it blew out just while sitting running at a buddy’s house and not doing 130 around a curve……..😈😈😈
I went to buy a 2003 w220 s600 with 69k km on it, and I was put off by the fact that car lifts up and down while idling for no reason. the soft close doesn't work, bootlid closes manually and the massage seat function doesn't work. it was also clear that there is a noise resembling somewhat of an air leak but I did not know where it was coming from or what it was. please advise thank you.
I'm hoping you can help... I have replaced so many components of my 08 S550 air suspension, I'm lost and about to give up on it. The rear is stuck up in the air (highest point) but the value shows 16mm for position. The code I get is... "fault in component y36/2y3 (right rear suspension strut plunger valve)" I have replaced the rear right strut, the front valve block and the rear leveling sensor. Still nothing! I'm never knew about these valves here. Is that the issue?? Please help...
Sorry, the newer air suspension is completely different from the older ABC hydraulic fluid suspension in my videos. I don’t think your car would even have these valves. Wish I could be more help!
I have a 03 s55 amg that sags on the front right of the vehicle (vehicles passenger side) it seems to ride at that height until I press the button to raise the suspension for it to level. As soon as I press the button for it to go back to normal ride height it sags again. Not sure what it can be.
My W220 S55 AMG has a different rear valve block compared to you. Your valves you can pull out individually. Mine on the rear is joined together as in the valves side by side are conjoined instead of being separated like on the front or as yours shown here.
@@cassidycarcave2781 not sure if it’s more reliable. Still having issues. Rebuilt the front valve block and my front still is too high after all calibrations and everything. Deep sigh 😔
Hello Cassidy Car Cave, thanks for the video. I've rebuilt the controllers and locking valves, but have lost my labelling on the electrical connections. It's 2 lines with 2 connectors each. Any suggestions on reconnecting? Is it trial and error? Or if connected incorrectly any damage to the system? Thanks!
I have an S55 that will dip on the right side after a few days, but the weird thing is that the ABC is constantly cycling on and off of sport and comfort, and also constantly rising and lowering every two seconds. The lights on the switches are lighting up as if you’re touching the buttons, and the car is accurately responding to the commands, but no one is touching the buttons. I’m wondering if this is more of an ABC issue or more of an electrical issue, like a SAM unit.
Hi I don’t fix my own car , but it’s fine if I drive it everyday. If I don’t it will stay up for 3 weeks then it will go down, but as soon as I start it it will jump up to normal. Is that ok ?? Thanks
Hi bought a cl600 5.8 na 2001 today ,old lady in the countryside owned it since 2003 she had a heated garage where it was kept all this time or most of the time ,condition is very good both inside out I checked everything working & no malfunctions in the dash however once I got home I noticed one front passenger corner a lot lower than others corners (right hand steering ,uk spec) prior to this I told the lady over the phone to get underside Inspected at local garage it came back dry nothing leaking so I wonder what it is please let me know what it might be thanks !
Most awesome you're going to love it! My guess is if you don't have a strut leaking or a line that would show fluid underneath the car then your front distribution block is failing. Sometimes changing the ABC fluid can cure something like this since you're replacing dirty fluid with clean fluid but most likely it's your front valve block. Thanks for watching! Enjoy your car :-)
@@cassidycarcave2781 hey man thanks for replying back on here , after a research and study I learned that it maybe the valve block yes it could be dirty and blocked , I’ll ring a local specialist and get to the bottom of all of it , mind you I also noticed the soft closure doesn’t work which I only realised once I was home and it too could be just some vacuum leaking or pumps fails 😅, my indy’s going to love me😄
I can do it in about 2 hours start to finish. First time it probably took took more like 3-4 hours. It's pretty straight forward just keep up with where the O-rings go!!
I have a CL600 Where the right drivers side only (facing hood of car in US) goes down apparently, and i can definitely smell some sort of leak under it. I will get a MBZ scanner on the car, but any thoughts on whether it would be the bock or ?
Usually if it's the valve blocks it's the front or back or the entire car that goes down... I would guess you've got a leak somewhere or a pump that is losing pressure... You should find out though when you pull codes. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@cassidycarcave2781 Hi there I pulled the codes via Xentry, and here they are : C1148-001 fault in B4/5 (pressure sensor), C1525-001, C1525-001 CV front left, C1525-002 CV front right, C1525-064 System pressure too low, and C1526-016 malfuction in pressure supply. Your thoughts are definitely welcome .
Hi Great Video, I have an issue with my 2006 CL500 sagging on the right side (In US Drivers side on left) . This happens after the car has been setting about a week. Do you think the valve blocks leaking could cause this?
Hey Wilbert thanks for watching!! I think Mercedes would say that this is normal for it to leak down after a week. If the valve block were bad, it usually would be the front or the back that would sag down. And it would happen much quicker - like overnight. You could start with an ABC fluid flush if that hasn't been done recently (2 years). Any dirt - even microscopic in the ABC fluid can cause the shocks to leak down. Otherwise I would say things are normal and it's really not worth fixing at this point since everything is so expensive! Hope this helps...
Sorry here is the company you want to use:x8r.co.uk/ You can get their kits directly, or off Amazon or Ebay. They have an INCREDIBLE video on their website that shows the actual rebuild once you get the block off the car. Thanks for watching!!!!!
On mine it wasn't necessary to bleed the hydraulic system after changing the valve block. The fluid will circulate through the system and blow out any bubbles I did have to bleed it later when I replaced the pump, but not when doing the valve block. Thanks for watching!!
@@lexusry Just start it on the floor after everything was put back together and the ABC fluid was topped off is what I did. Cycle the suspension up and down about 20 times while making sure the fluid level stays above the minimum line...
Yes if it drops down on both sides it's usually the seals in the rear valve block. If it's dropping down only on one side it may be the strut itself...
@@cassidycarcave2781 makes sense... what if the whole car drops down? no leaks, no error codes and sometimes the drop will happen as quickly as overnight, other times it takes a week (which I know is normal).
@@CH-qt4hr Most likely one of the valve blocks. Some have had success flushing the ABC fluid then performing a Star rodeo to clean everything out. Ff either the front or the rear valve block o rings are bad, the entire car can lower down...
Ermir I couldn't find a seal kit when I was doing this project. They may exist but I couldn't find one so I just bought a rebuilt pump...Hope you can find one! Thx!!!
When will Mercedes ever build a reliable car? I'm so sad I got the Mercedes I wanted but the airmatic suspension failed I just want to get to work so embarrassing I had to put a rubber ball on the upper control arm to keep the car from damaged the fender 😔
I feel your pain Les! Every Mercedes I've ever had with automatic leveling suspension has had issues. I see why people go with conversions to regular shocks and springs. Thanks for watching!
@ zanas...not true because i did replace the struts with arnot struts i had 3 mercedes the s550 the s500 and the e500 on all of them the suspension failed and on the e500 the sbc brakes fail the plastic lever for the intake failed all the cars experience limp mode every Mercedes i owned or people i know was junk just over engineerd garbage..now my wife has a accord and i drive a Lexus they are not perfect but these cars have not been the financial repair burden on my family that Mercedes has been...you couldn't give me a Mercedes for free...complete over rated trash
This video gave me the confidence to sort my sagging nearside out..Thank you 👍
Nice work getting it done. These cars aren't that hard to work on or I wouldn't be able to do it :-) thanks for watching!
@@cassidycarcave2781 Is there a way to contact you? Email or phone number?
Thanks for the informative video. Not a lot of content out there for the ABC system. I subbed, Thanks again!
Hey Neil thanks for watching and subscribing! Love these cars. I hope to start doing some more content soon. I've had to move locations for The Cave but I'm getting set back up now :-)
Thank you for this video. I didn’t see it until after I replaced mine, but as you show not too difficult. I just rebuilt my CL55 and finally went out for a drive today and while the valve block replacement seems to be working fine, heard a big poof when I joined the highway and a bunch of abc fluid all over the under body. I have yet to take it to a mechanic but common sense tells me it’s the accumulator since it’s the only component that holds pressure in that driver side rear corner. Just looking for some professional confirmation as I don’t have any Mercedes mechanics in my home town area.
Accumulator is on passenger rear side this little one you see in this video is a pressure regulator and wouldn’t really be leaking unless you blew a hole in and I don’t think that would ever happen…..although all those lines running to the valve block can definitely blow out …..pull your cover and see which one blew… its normally the top one
Thanks. I forgot to mention that this code was persistent while I was rebuilding but thought it was negligible since some codes are on these cars which throw hundreds of codes sometimes. The code was C1345 Fault in component (Y36/2y1(Left rear suspension strut control valve). If you say the accumulator isn’t even on that side then it must be a line. I’ll check the lines tomorrow. I had the cover off on the drive but even still very unlikely that something hit that pressure regulator and probably is the line.
@@CLVannoy Is it not called a pulsation dampener not a pressure regulator? I’m going back and forth between what you are telling me and what an online mechanic is saying.
@@datazndood correct pulsation damper …….it’s job is to handle the spikes for the valve body ……if your dampener is bad it shouldn’t show leak externally unless it’s just loose on its line
I just replace the long hard line running from the rear valve block to front driver union block…..they sell these as two lines but just my upper hose blew I replace both though of course…..lucky it blew out just while sitting running at a buddy’s house and not doing 130 around a curve……..😈😈😈
You're the man ! Thank you ❤😎🐐
I went to buy a 2003 w220 s600 with 69k km on it, and I was put off by the fact that car lifts up and down while idling for no reason. the soft close doesn't work, bootlid closes manually and the massage seat function doesn't work. it was also clear that there is a noise resembling somewhat of an air leak but I did not know where it was coming from or what it was. please advise thank you.
Did you find solution for the idle up and down and soft close, thanks!
Thanks for the great video. Do you need to bleed the system afterward?
I'm hoping you can help... I have replaced so many components of my 08 S550 air suspension, I'm lost and about to give up on it. The rear is stuck up in the air (highest point) but the value shows 16mm for position.
The code I get is...
"fault in component y36/2y3 (right rear suspension strut plunger valve)"
I have replaced the rear right strut, the front valve block and the rear leveling sensor. Still nothing! I'm never knew about these valves here. Is that the issue?? Please help...
Sorry, the newer air suspension is completely different from the older ABC hydraulic fluid suspension in my videos. I don’t think your car would even have these valves. Wish I could be more help!
@@cassidycarcave2781 oh I didn't notice hydraulic suspension... Thanks for the reply
Thank you for an excellent video.
Thanks David for watching and commenting!
I have a 03 s55 amg that sags on the front right of the vehicle (vehicles passenger side) it seems to ride at that height until I press the button to raise the suspension for it to level. As soon as I press the button for it to go back to normal ride height it sags again. Not sure what it can be.
Who did you purchase the parts from?
My W220 S55 AMG has a different rear valve block compared to you. Your valves you can pull out individually. Mine on the rear is joined together as in the valves side by side are conjoined instead of being separated like on the front or as yours shown here.
A2203201258
Part #
Wow that's cool...AMG version must have an improved system...hope it's more reliable!! Thanks for watching!
@@cassidycarcave2781 not sure if it’s more reliable. Still having issues. Rebuilt the front valve block and my front still is too high after all calibrations and everything. Deep sigh 😔
Great video! subscribed.
Thank you!
Hello Cassidy Car Cave, thanks for the video. I've rebuilt the controllers and locking valves, but have lost my labelling on the electrical connections. It's 2 lines with 2 connectors each. Any suggestions on reconnecting? Is it trial and error? Or if connected incorrectly any damage to the system? Thanks!
I have an S55 that will dip on the right side after a few days, but the weird thing is that the ABC is constantly cycling on and off of sport and comfort, and also constantly rising and lowering every two seconds. The lights on the switches are lighting up as if you’re touching the buttons, and the car is accurately responding to the commands, but no one is touching the buttons. I’m wondering if this is more of an ABC issue or more of an electrical issue, like a SAM unit.
I think it's a sam or switch issue...maybe try disconnecting the switch and see if it stops? Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching Joseph!
Hi I don’t fix my own car , but it’s fine if I drive it everyday. If I don’t it will stay up for 3 weeks then it will go down, but as soon as I start it it will jump up to normal. Is that ok ?? Thanks
@@mrkongsimr yes that is totally normal! You’re fortunate you have a functioning ABC system!! Thanks for watching and commenting…new content coming:-)
Hi bought a cl600 5.8 na 2001 today ,old lady in the countryside owned it since 2003 she had a heated garage where it was kept all this time or most of the time ,condition is very good both inside out I checked everything working & no malfunctions in the dash however once I got home I noticed one front passenger corner a lot lower than others corners (right hand steering ,uk spec) prior to this I told the lady over the phone to get underside Inspected at local garage it came back dry nothing leaking so I wonder what it is please let me know what it might be thanks !
Most awesome you're going to love it! My guess is if you don't have a strut leaking or a line that would show fluid underneath the car then your front distribution block is failing. Sometimes changing the ABC fluid can cure something like this since you're replacing dirty fluid with clean fluid but most likely it's your front valve block. Thanks for watching! Enjoy your car :-)
@@cassidycarcave2781 hey man thanks for replying back on here , after a research and study I learned that it maybe the valve block yes it could be dirty and blocked , I’ll ring a local specialist and get to the bottom of all of it , mind you I also noticed the soft closure doesn’t work which I only realised once I was home and it too could be just some vacuum leaking or pumps fails 😅, my indy’s going to love me😄
My SL 500 has o'rings problems how much am I looking at to have it fixed, I researched it. Anything else I should fix while they're down there?
Valve block rebuild kit is around $125us...just make sure your ABC fluid is fresh and clean also... thanks for watching!!!
Hi mate thanks for video - how long does the rebuild and reassembly take all up? 5-6 hours?
I can do it in about 2 hours start to finish. First time it probably took took more like 3-4 hours. It's pretty straight forward just keep up with where the O-rings go!!
@@cassidycarcave2781 Thank you very much - i've done basics on my 221 S600 -but looking at a nice S55 too so want to be up to speed with expectations
Quick question, where did you guys get the kit with the seals? It would be greatly appreciated if you could let me know. Thanks!
It's a kit from a company called "X8R" you can buy it on Amazon or parts shops like FCP Euro...thanks for watching!!!
Hello! Can you share the parts number of sealing gum. or a link where you can buy them... Thanx.
I have a CL600 Where the right drivers side only (facing hood of car in US) goes down apparently, and i can definitely smell some sort of leak under it. I will get a MBZ scanner on the car, but any thoughts on whether it would be the bock or ?
Usually if it's the valve blocks it's the front or back or the entire car that goes down... I would guess you've got a leak somewhere or a pump that is losing pressure... You should find out though when you pull codes. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@cassidycarcave2781 Hi there I pulled the codes via Xentry, and here they are : C1148-001 fault in B4/5 (pressure sensor), C1525-001, C1525-001 CV front left, C1525-002 CV front right, C1525-064 System pressure too low, and C1526-016 malfuction in pressure supply. Your thoughts are definitely welcome .
Hi Great Video, I have an issue with my 2006 CL500 sagging on the right side (In US Drivers side on left) . This happens after the car has been setting about a week. Do you think the valve blocks leaking could cause this?
Hey Wilbert thanks for watching!! I think Mercedes would say that this is normal for it to leak down after a week. If the valve block were bad, it usually would be the front or the back that would sag down. And it would happen much quicker - like overnight. You could start with an ABC fluid flush if that hasn't been done recently (2 years). Any dirt - even microscopic in the ABC fluid can cause the shocks to leak down. Otherwise I would say things are normal and it's really not worth fixing at this point since everything is so expensive! Hope this helps...
Which struts were sagging in this video? Rears only? Thanks!
Sorry. Replayed & YES!....
did I miss the link to the rebuild kit?
Sorry here is the company you want to use:x8r.co.uk/
You can get their kits directly, or off Amazon or Ebay. They have an INCREDIBLE video on their website that shows the actual rebuild once you get the block off the car. Thanks for watching!!!!!
@@cassidycarcave2781 thanks man!!!
DONT YOU HAVE TO BLEED TO HYDRAULIC SYSTEM AND HOW DO YOU DO IT
On mine it wasn't necessary to bleed the hydraulic system after changing the valve block. The fluid will circulate through the system and blow out any bubbles I did have to bleed it later when I replaced the pump, but not when doing the valve block. Thanks for watching!!
@@cassidycarcave2781 DID YOU JUST START THE CAR WHILE IT ON THE FLOOR OR DO YOU HAVE TO JACK UP ALL WHEELS BEFORE YOU START THE CAR
@@lexusry Just start it on the floor after everything was put back together and the ABC fluid was topped off is what I did. Cycle the suspension up and down about 20 times while making sure the fluid level stays above the minimum line...
i have a code for “system pressure low” please help its in red and i cannot raise and lower
is long term rear end sagging caused by the same thing? Just not as dramatic of seal leak?
Yes if it drops down on both sides it's usually the seals in the rear valve block. If it's dropping down only on one side it may be the strut itself...
@@cassidycarcave2781 makes sense... what if the whole car drops down? no leaks, no error codes and sometimes the drop will happen as quickly as overnight, other times it takes a week (which I know is normal).
@@CH-qt4hr Most likely one of the valve blocks. Some have had success flushing the ABC fluid then performing a Star rodeo to clean everything out. Ff either the front or the rear valve block o rings are bad, the entire car can lower down...
@@cassidycarcave2781 thanks man, I'm going to start with the rear and see what happens. I did the fluid/filter/rodeo thing but no dice
hello ,how r you,can u help me to find and buy one rebuild seals kit for w215 2002 ABC PUMP PLEASE
Ermir I couldn't find a seal kit when I was doing this project. They may exist but I couldn't find one so I just bought a rebuilt pump...Hope you can find one! Thx!!!
@@cassidycarcave2781 Where did you buy the rebuilt pump and have you had any issues since installing it?
When will Mercedes ever build a reliable car? I'm so sad I got the Mercedes I wanted but the airmatic suspension failed I just want to get to work so embarrassing I had to put a rubber ball on the upper control arm to keep the car from damaged the fender 😔
I feel your pain Les! Every Mercedes I've ever had with automatic leveling suspension has had issues. I see why people go with conversions to regular shocks and springs. Thanks for watching!
dont forget about all the years that went by, the millions of bumps they absorbed already and so on...
@ zanas...not true because i did replace the struts with arnot struts i had 3 mercedes the s550 the s500 and the e500 on all of them the suspension failed and on the e500 the sbc brakes fail the plastic lever for the intake failed all the cars experience limp mode every Mercedes i owned or people i know was junk just over engineerd garbage..now my wife has a accord and i drive a Lexus they are not perfect but these cars have not been the financial repair burden on my family that Mercedes has been...you couldn't give me a Mercedes for free...complete over rated trash
@@les536 I wouldn’t blame Mercedes I would blame Arnnot struts
@@CLVannoy I just changed a 2 year old Arnott. Though they have a lifetime warranty, I never expected it to fail in two years.
7
your going high speed through the important repairs, not show how you twist them out. Try a crows foot for lines nuts.
Thanks Gordie I'll slow it down some!