This short video will show how to easily align and install the bolt catch roll pin on your AR lower. If this is something you do regularly, you should watch this.
Instead of making the bent wire tool. You can use a small allen wrench, that fits, and gets held in place under spring tension. A roll pin starter punch & roll pin punch, made for the AR Lower, is a great tool set to get too.
First several I did with just a correctly sized roll pin punch. Even after reading the dire warnings about slipping off the pin and making a big ugly scratch in the side of the receiver. All of them came out unblemished. Your shop made tool is perfect and a fraction of the cost of the purpose built set of tools from Wheeler. As long as you have a lathe to drill the hole... Great tip on the welding rod bent retaining/ lineup tool. As always well done Joe! Thank you.
I'd been futzing around with this all afternoon trying to figure out how to grow a third hand. I love the pin-holding punch idea. Simple and effective. I found a piece of 3/16" HRS in my scrap bin and drilled it in my lathe; works PERFECTLY. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
OMG! Thank you! I am attempting my first ever build. and Boy, You have made a difficult operation super-simple. Getting the right tips from guys that really know what they are doing makes all the difference in the world. I sure wish I had seen this before I tried it the first time, LOL!
I like this idea using a long punch to reach it and the hole in the end is nice. One thing you might do is add some heat shrink to the rod to prevent some nicks in case of a slip.
A piece of toothpick makes a pretty good slave pin as well (but I actually like the weld rod better). I like that 1/4” homemade punch better than the slab sided punches that are made for this. I’ve actually bent a couple of them and the slab side still touches the receiver - so you still need tape. Yours is the best method I’ve seen yet. Now I want to get another lower just so I can try it out 😊.
Real Avid makes a two punch kit made specifically for this job, which I like, and its only 13 bucks or so. The punches have notched out sides to fit the receiver better, and the starter punch is magnetic to easily hold the roll pin.
I'm a little proud of myself, I did the same thing when I built my first lower. I used an allen key instead of a bending a welding rod. When I was an auto mechanic I learned to start bigger roll pins by holding them in a deep socket and tapping them in with an extension. Subaru half shafts are held in with roll pins and can be easily reinstalled with that trick. I didn't invent that though, I was shown it when I was an apprentice.
MASON CROSS I would have moved across the country to be his apprentice, I learn something with every one of his videos. And he's doing something right, look at his shop. Keep it up Joe. Please. You have a lot to offer and the vast majority of us watching want to learn from you.
Just found this and THANK. YOU. Where on this forsaken green earth was THIS tidbit when I built one AR and upgraded, and worked on my other? THIS is an epically simple solution to end a lot of non-child approved verbiage. Stellar, man. Thank you!!
Good video. I was looking for slightly more instant gratification than a trip to the welding shop. So I just used a 2mm Allen wrench to hold everything together while I drove the pin in. Worked great.
Dude, simple, fast, and effective AND hardly any additional cost for job-specific tools!!! Thanks!!! I struggled mightily getting that bolt catch in-even had to have my son help me! Needed four hands to complete the job. It's one of those,"why didn't I think of that?!?!?" situations. Again, thanks for posting this vid!
Excellent & informative video Joe, thank you. If you don't have access to 093 or 3/32" filler rod, a (2D zinc coated?) finishing nail with the point ground off & bent will do the trick too.
I just trashed my pin trying to install. And its 10:34 at night. Now I have to go to work tonight and open up to get a new one! Thanks this helps except I dont have the tools to do it like you have. My next purchase is a pin starter and punch set.
You can buy a roll pin install punch in several sizes that does the same thing. Great to have in your repair kit. Seat it with a roll pin driving punch that has a nipple the size of the hole in the roll pin, in several sizes. Common in armorer kits.
Joe how did you know I was building another AR and was looking for a better way to install this roll pin? Your psychic! The slave pin is a great idea. This was a great short project for me this afternoon. I'm just learning how to make chips and break tools on a lathe and a mill. Please keep the excellent videos coming. Thanks!
Nice video:) One other way is to use a pair of channel locks with one face covered in electrical tape. You just do a simple tap and then you the channel locks to squeeze the pin into place. Has worked for me for over 20 years...
I've seen that done, but if you think about it, the small protrusion with the far pin receiver hole is taking all the stress from the channel lock pressure. The possibility of it snapping off is very high. The wall thickness on that feature on either side of the pin hole is very thin and could crack easily.
The small lugs that hold the bolt catch/release lever are extremely small. Squeezing that pin in has always made me cringe regardless of who did it. You snap one of those little lugs off and kiss the lower good bye. The extended female punch is a good approach.
on std milspec lowers, you can insert from front using Brownells and others 1/2 milled punches. use appropriate sized punch from rear to act as slave pin. Bias the 1/2 milled punch slightly away from the receiver while you get the roll pin started and then straighten the punch to knock it the rest of the way in. Additionally, to assist holding the bolt catch in place, you can get the hammer to go into the forward position and it will apply pressure to bolt catch while you knock the roll pin in. using the hammer technique also helps when you are removing the bolt catch assembly for replacement and to prevent the catch/plunger and spring from taking off if you forget to hold the catch in place when you remove the 1/2 milled punch.
Joe, one other thing that I do is install a piece of shrink wrap over the ¼" drive rod. This will eliminate any scuff marks on the side of the receiver.
A couple of good tips here. i would add: 1 - A drop of good lubricant or even white lithium grease on the spring and plunger will help ensure free flowng action of the bolt lock 2 - Ensure there is a good taper on the insertion end of the roll pin [my experience is that 50% are not well tapered]. A minute of so with a sharp mill bastard file will do the trick 3 - Before you drive in the roll pin ,put a drop of oil on that as well. It greatly eases the installation of the roll pin 4 - It makes good sense to put at least 2 layers of painter's tape on the lower receiver before you go to hammering away on your roll pin starter punch and later when you are finish driving. For whatever reason it is easy to mar the finish of the lower when installing this pin. 5 - While you can cover up accidental mars with a Sharpie, a better option is to buy a bottle of Aluminium Black from Brownells. The Sharpie leaves a shiny repair that doesna match the finish. The Aluminium Black matches perfectly - unless of course your receiver is blue or red or chartruse or you are going to hit it with Krylon camo paint and then who cares?
I am a former surgical instrument designer. Instruments need to be thoroughly cleaned between cases so we added access holes and slots. Hot water and detergents don't always get where it needs to get without access features on the instrument. On the OTHER hand, debris doesn't get there either, so its a balance of whats really needed. Now to the point....Roll pins are hardened and unlikely to transfer with use, and the bolt catch lever is usually hardened as well. This being said, these surfaces should function well as is, better with lube of course, but the lube now acts as an attraction point for dirt and sediment that will accelerate wear over time. If its a range gun, oil it, if its a jungle gun, I personally would just keep it clean and oil only the important stuff. Just my opinion. Initial lube at installation is a good idea, but keep your chamfer small because the resting land isn't very big and you want as much contact as possible.
Thank you, followed your instructions and used a small allen wrench as a slave pin, one thing i did differently was tap the roll pin in slightly just to get it started because i didnt have a vice, this was my first build and it turned out great
That is very similar how I install those pins. However I use a roll pin starter punch and then a standard roll pin punch. Not a custom tool. I also place masking tape on the side of the lower to eliminate "oops" marks in the finish. This has worked well for the dozen or so rifles I've built. I love the slave pin idea. I'll be making a slave for use in my next build. Thanks Joe!
You can also use the short end of a 1/15" allen wrench from the front end if you don't have time or the place to go get wire to use. I also just a gentle tap from a brass hammer to start the pin and then used a 5/32" (4mm) tapered Irwin punch to finish the pin insert with the allen wrench getting pushed out of the front end.
I've tried every trick in the book for removing/installing the bolt catch roll pin. These are the two tools that have worked best for me: Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch (Part# 080-216-012WB) - A slab-sided punch that clears the left side of the magwell, allowing you to drive out the punch without marring your lower. In addition, I put a piece of masking tape over the "hump" on the magwell for added protection. KAK Walt's Tool - A long, roll pin punch starter, similar to the one you made. First, I insert the bolt catch and use the Brownell's punch to line it up with the corresponding holes in the lower. Then I start off the roll pin with the KAK punch and then drive it in about 90% of the way with a regular solid punch (instead of a roll pin punch). This is to prevent the end of the roll pin from "mushrooming" if there is too much resistance. Then I finish it off with a 3/32" roll pin punch. Done.
The one big mistake people make with a roll pin is using a punch that has a conical tip. Under pressure, it expands the pin and makes it harder to install. A flat face, or hollow punch like the one here is much better.
if you shut the hammer on the trigger it generally will hold the bolt catch in place without needing something to hold it. ive also built an AR lower entirely with a vice. not even using a hammer get creative chat its just pounding a pin in a hole you dont need any fancy tools like some other people commenting were talking about not having.
Nifty trick! I was saved the hassle of using a roll pin for the bolt catch on my Stag 10, because Stag cleverly replaced that piece with a pin that's threaded on the end, but I'll need to install a bolt catch roll pin soon. I'll give this a try.
I have got into the habit of tapping the hole and using a 3/8" long grub screw. Makes it easier if I want to change the bolt catch to something different later on. Good tip though, Joe. I struggled with the first couple ARs I built because of that stupid roll pin.
Easy installation. Just need to make custom fab tools for something many people will only do once. Instead of getting wire from a "local welder" and bending it, why not use a small Allen key? Lubricate the holes, get the roll pin stated, then slowly and carefully squeezed it in with some vice grips.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. You choose the one that makes you happy. Me...I'll never use taped up vise grips to install a bolt catch pin. You snap one of those ears off and the lower is trash.
Looks like you nicked the finish. Your homemade roll pin starter looks great but use a proper roll pin punch to finish. It will allow you to recess the pin just a bit without damaging your upper.
I only purchase uppers (correction ‘lower’) that have a grove running across that extended section. If a manufacturer doesn’t take this extra step- he doesn’t earn my money.. Best video on this instillation. Thanks All Black Rifles Matter
OMG start the roll pin fist from the rear to where it just protrudes into the gap, put all the other parts in, squeeze the roll pin into place with a pair of channel locks with a little electrical tape wrapped arround them. I had no idea people thought this was hard to do until I was looking arround on u-tube and found out how many people make this harder that it needs to be. Once you start to squeeze the channel plocks you can wiggle arround the stop to get it lined up with the free hand. I didnt even use a vise to hold the reciever when i was younger, arthritis made me a littlle less sure handed.
I would never tell anyone to squeeze those tabs with vise grips, wrapped in tape or not. Its a common practice, but that small piece of aluminum shouldn't be squeezed with anything.
@@joepie221 if you will note i said channel locks, not vice grips. Big difference. If you cant judge the pressure you are putting on a roll pin for crying out loud then yes don't use this method. But is reality there is far less chance of damaging it with the easy pressure of channel locks that a drift and a hammer. Come on!! Lets beat on it rather than gently push. The parts fill the gap as well and you have already started the pin in the near side hole. I think maybe someone just want to be an internet expert.
The wire tip was great! I would turn a feature on second side of the punch that has a first diameter that fits into the center hole of the pin and then the second diameter is only slightly thicker than the wall thickness of the pin. That way you will never catch on the receiver itself. A correct diameter hole transfer punch should do fine also.
A flat step on the punch as you first mentioned would be better than a transfer punch or tapered pin because it would expand the roll pin less, by driving on the end of the pin, and not from the inside diameter of the pin. You want to push straight on end of the pin and not from the inner diameter of the pin, which would do work to expand it.
Excellent. The slave pin technique really helps to align things you can't see. I use it in many applications. This is just one. Thanks for the comment.
I don't know if some companies make AR-15 lowers with a threaded hole and threaded pin or not. I haven't looked into it. However, on my AERO Precision AR-10 (308) lower it is threaded with a Torx head and it makes it very easy to install.
Or, you could just get a proper roll pin punch set. They're not expensive and they're made specifically for roll pins. As for a slave pin, a small allen wrench works A-OK and is pretty easy to find if you don't already have one. It's easier than finding a local welder for a filler rod and drilling your own hole into a blank piece of steel rod!
Grace sells a pin punch that is specifically for the bolt catch. It has a notched side so it doesn't mar the receiver while driving the pin . However it's nice to see some people still have ingenuity great video Joe.
Beware the pin punch that goes inside the pin. Some of these have a radius where the small and large diameters come together. Under pressure, the radius will expand the pin and make it harder to drive in. A hollow driver like the one shown here is better for split roll pin installation.
@@joepie221 I was talking about the hole in the end punch. I have and use both though and I agree if you don't have the proper fit it can create problems. That aside I have respect for the fact that you had the ingenuity & took the time to fabricate your own punch. You do solid work thanks for sharing Joe.
Brownells makes an Offset Roll Pin punch that allows you to install it from the rear. You won't mark up your receiver, as displayed on the rear of the bolt catch here.
A lot of people don't realize if you drive a roll pin from the inside, it expands it and makes it harder to seat. Roll pins should be installed either dead ended or in a cup. Its easier.
AeroPrecision makes a M4E1 lower that actually makes this a threaded rod rather than a punchable pin. They improved this unlike everyone else. It is however a little more money. Just an FYI. I damaged multiple before seeing these
While you’re making punches make a roll pin punch and grind about 4.5” of the side of the punch then with a little tape on the receiver you won’t scratch the side of the receiver. As a gunsmith if I scratched the side of the reciever as you did some customers will complain.
Slick I like that trick! I will say I've used the vise grip method a number of times and it's worked for me and hasn't damaged the lower at all but I suppose it's possible
Pretty much exactly how we do it in the shop. We made a starter punch and then found an extra length roll pin punch, with the little centering nub on the end. That guy almost guarantees not to damage the receiver as it is the same diameter as the pin. Then just a dab of super black to color the pin.
FYI, you can use a roll pin starter punch vs drilling your own to drive it through. His tool is easier to use though if you have the tools/patience. The wire is a good tip.
just wanted to thank you for the helpful video, btw i found that a 5/64 allen key does the trick of your wire you used to keep hole aligned, i rigged a driver per your instructions and viola she is in man!
I have a roll pin starter punch for that, the piece of wire from the front is a must unless you have three hands. Yeah, you have to install the mag release first, thanks for the reminder.
Unless its a hollow punch like the one shown, a flat face punch is the next best thing. Don't use a pin punch with a pointed tip it expands the roll pin when it meets resistance and makes it even harder to drive in.
I used a pice of wire coat hanger that i found in my closet, i cut it and bent it with pliers , the wire coat hangers come in one or two different thicknesses .
Totally inspired Joe and logical too. Hope I don't have to bother but like Chuck, wondering the best way to drift that pin out again, safely - if in fact that would necessary.
Good tip! I have\use roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches like is mentioned by an earlier comment. I also have one designed specifically for the AR that is milled flat on one side...
Punches with conical tip leads that go inside the pin will locate them just fine, but under impact, that same conical feature will spread the pin and add to resistance. Roll pins should not be driven from the ID.
Joe Pieczynski good point... Though mine have just a slight some that only serves to center the punch on the pin and the outside diameter is what drives the punch. They are truly better used and invaluable in removing the roll pin. My method is similar to yours...start it with a roll pin starter punch and finishing with the biggest flat punch. I've picked up tons of good tips and methods from you... Thanks for sharing your experience!
A PROPER SIZED ROLL PIN STARTER PUCH WILL DO THE SAME THING...IF YOU WORK ON GUNS AT ALL YOU SHOULD HAVE A SET OF BOTH ROLL PIN STARTER AND ROLL PIN PUNCHES!
@@joepie221 Well, at least it was you that did the deed. It really sucks when you hand something off to a "buddy" and later they hand it back kanked......
Joe Pieczynski Lol, love your videos. They really give me practical knowledge as a hobbist that it would takes a professional years to learn through Mistakes. Keep up the great work.
Instead of making the bent wire tool. You can use a small allen wrench, that fits, and gets held in place under spring tension. A roll pin starter punch & roll pin punch, made for the AR Lower, is a great tool set to get too.
Wheeler Engineering makes both the starter punch and roll pin punch set. They work well for me.
Hello Joe, you are a clever man. This looks like an inexpensive way to do a tricky job. Thanks for your generosity.
I've put together dozens of lowers and this is the easiest technique I've seen for the bolt catch pin. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it. It works well.
First several I did with just a correctly sized roll pin punch. Even after reading the dire warnings about slipping off the pin and making a big ugly scratch in the side of the receiver. All of them came out unblemished. Your shop made tool is perfect and a fraction of the cost of the purpose built set of tools from Wheeler. As long as you have a lathe to drill the hole... Great tip on the welding rod bent retaining/ lineup tool. As always well done Joe! Thank you.
The long punch is really safe and effective. Thanks for the comment.
If you’re worried about your guns getting scratched up you must not shoot them very often 😂
Thanks for pointing out your complete lack of understanding of good workmanship and fine craftsmanship. @@codygreene9067
I'd been futzing around with this all afternoon trying to figure out how to grow a third hand. I love the pin-holding punch idea. Simple and effective. I found a piece of 3/16" HRS in my scrap bin and drilled it in my lathe; works PERFECTLY. One of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Could use a small cleaning rod, worked for me
You can also use a 3/32 Allen wrench if it’s too long just wittle it down on or with a grinder. If you don’t know any welders.
What a great video. Well-lit and visible closeups, quick explanations, and no wasted time on setups. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Did you see the machining series that made this lower?
OMG! Thank you! I am attempting my first ever build. and Boy, You have made a difficult operation super-simple. Getting the right tips from guys that really know what they are doing makes all the difference in the world. I sure wish I had seen this before I tried it the first time, LOL!
I like this idea using a long punch to reach it and the hole in the end is nice. One thing you might do is add some heat shrink to the rod to prevent some nicks in case of a slip.
A piece of toothpick makes a pretty good slave pin as well (but I actually like the weld rod better). I like that 1/4” homemade punch better than the slab sided punches that are made for this. I’ve actually bent a couple of them and the slab side still touches the receiver - so you still need tape. Yours is the best method I’ve seen yet. Now I want to get another lower just so I can try it out 😊.
Real Avid makes a two punch kit made specifically for this job, which I like, and its only 13 bucks or so. The punches have notched out sides to fit the receiver better, and the starter punch is magnetic to easily hold the roll pin.
I'm a little proud of myself, I did the same thing when I built my first lower. I used an allen key instead of a bending a welding rod. When I was an auto mechanic I learned to start bigger roll pins by holding them in a deep socket and tapping them in with an extension. Subaru half shafts are held in with roll pins and can be easily reinstalled with that trick. I didn't invent that though, I was shown it when I was an apprentice.
Its a solid technique and can save damage to the receiving part.
MASON CROSS I would have moved across the country to be his apprentice, I learn something with every one of his videos. And he's doing something right, look at his shop. Keep it up Joe. Please. You have a lot to offer and the vast majority of us watching want to learn from you.
Just found this and THANK. YOU. Where on this forsaken green earth was THIS tidbit when I built one AR and upgraded, and worked on my other? THIS is an epically simple solution to end a lot of non-child approved verbiage. Stellar, man. Thank you!!
Good video. I was looking for slightly more instant gratification than a trip to the welding shop. So I just used a 2mm Allen wrench to hold everything together while I drove the pin in. Worked great.
I used an old wire coat hanger
It also fits perfectly in a T30 security star drive. Thanks for the idea! Worked great
Dude, simple, fast, and effective AND hardly any additional cost for job-specific tools!!! Thanks!!! I struggled mightily getting that bolt catch in-even had to have my son help me! Needed four hands to complete the job. It's one of those,"why didn't I think of that?!?!?" situations. Again, thanks for posting this vid!
Excellent & informative video Joe, thank you. If you don't have access to 093 or 3/32" filler rod, a (2D zinc coated?) finishing nail with the point ground off & bent will do the trick too.
Great tip!
I just trashed my pin trying to install. And its 10:34 at night. Now I have to go to work tonight and open up to get a new one! Thanks this helps except I dont have the tools to do it like you have. My next purchase is a pin starter and punch set.
Best install and instruction I have seen !
You can buy a roll pin install punch in several sizes that does the same thing. Great to have in your repair kit. Seat it with a roll pin driving punch that has a nipple the size of the hole in the roll pin, in several sizes. Common in armorer kits.
Joe how did you know I was building another AR and was looking for a better way to install this roll pin? Your psychic! The slave pin is a great idea. This was a great short project for me this afternoon. I'm just learning how to make chips and break tools on a lathe and a mill. Please keep the excellent videos coming. Thanks!
Hit that sub button after you stop smiling.
Joe, thanks for the tips. I've put together a few lowers and your tip is one that saves the most time and lowers the chance on marking up a lower.
Nice video:) One other way is to use a pair of channel locks with one face covered in electrical tape. You just do a simple tap and then you the channel locks to squeeze the pin into place. Has worked for me for over 20 years...
I've seen that done, but if you think about it, the small protrusion with the far pin receiver hole is taking all the stress from the channel lock pressure. The possibility of it snapping off is very high. The wall thickness on that feature on either side of the pin hole is very thin and could crack easily.
I like this way of doing it. Absolutely safer for the lower.
The small lugs that hold the bolt catch/release lever are extremely small. Squeezing that pin in has always made me cringe regardless of who did it. You snap one of those little lugs off and kiss the lower good bye. The extended female punch is a good approach.
The best part is the magwell vise block machined from oak.......🇺🇸✊
Guaranteed not to scratch the finish.
on std milspec lowers, you can insert from front using Brownells and others 1/2 milled punches. use appropriate sized punch from rear to act as slave pin. Bias the 1/2 milled punch slightly away from the receiver while you get the roll pin started and then straighten the punch to knock it the rest of the way in. Additionally, to assist holding the bolt catch in place, you can get the hammer to go into the forward position and it will apply pressure to bolt catch while you knock the roll pin in. using the hammer technique also helps when you are removing the bolt catch assembly for replacement and to prevent the catch/plunger and spring from taking off if you forget to hold the catch in place when you remove the 1/2 milled punch.
Joe, one other thing that I do is install a piece of shrink wrap over the ¼" drive rod. This will eliminate any scuff marks on the side of the receiver.
now yur thinkin, excellent idea
However you get the pin in or out, masking tape can be used to help prevent scuffing. Saw that trick in Midway's howto series.
I've been using KNS's precision bolt catch retaining pin , I have been quite happy with it so far.
A couple of good tips here. i would add:
1 - A drop of good lubricant or even white lithium grease on the spring and plunger will help ensure free flowng action of the bolt lock
2 - Ensure there is a good taper on the insertion end of the roll pin [my experience is that 50% are not well tapered]. A minute of so with a sharp mill bastard file will do the trick
3 - Before you drive in the roll pin ,put a drop of oil on that as well. It greatly eases the installation of the roll pin
4 - It makes good sense to put at least 2 layers of painter's tape on the lower receiver before you go to hammering away on your roll pin starter punch and later when you are finish driving. For whatever reason it is easy to mar the finish of the lower when installing this pin.
5 - While you can cover up accidental mars with a Sharpie, a better option is to buy a bottle of Aluminium Black from Brownells. The Sharpie leaves a shiny repair that doesna match the finish. The Aluminium Black matches perfectly - unless of course your receiver is blue or red or chartruse or you are going to hit it with Krylon camo paint and then who cares?
I am a former surgical instrument designer. Instruments need to be thoroughly cleaned between cases so we added access holes and slots. Hot water and detergents don't always get where it needs to get without access features on the instrument. On the OTHER hand, debris doesn't get there either, so its a balance of whats really needed. Now to the point....Roll pins are hardened and unlikely to transfer with use, and the bolt catch lever is usually hardened as well. This being said, these surfaces should function well as is, better with lube of course, but the lube now acts as an attraction point for dirt and sediment that will accelerate wear over time. If its a range gun, oil it, if its a jungle gun, I personally would just keep it clean and oil only the important stuff. Just my opinion. Initial lube at installation is a good idea, but keep your chamfer small because the resting land isn't very big and you want as much contact as possible.
Excellent idea. Love that suggestion of 3/32 filler rod. Going to buy some at Lowe's right now. Thank you!!
Thank you, followed your instructions and used a small allen wrench as a slave pin, one thing i did differently was tap the roll pin in slightly just to get it started because i didnt have a vice, this was my first build and it turned out great
That is very similar how I install those pins. However I use a roll pin starter punch and then a standard roll pin punch. Not a custom tool. I also place masking tape on the side of the lower to eliminate "oops" marks in the finish. This has worked well for the dozen or so rifles I've built. I love the slave pin idea. I'll be making a slave for use in my next build. Thanks Joe!
You can also use the short end of a 1/15" allen wrench from the front end if you don't have time or the place to go get wire to use. I also just a gentle tap from a brass hammer to start the pin and then used a 5/32" (4mm) tapered Irwin punch to finish the pin insert with the allen wrench getting pushed out of the front end.
Sounds like a good method, but my subscribers would hang me if I didn't ask about the 1/15" allen wrench. 1/16" maybe ??
I've tried every trick in the book for removing/installing the bolt catch roll pin. These are the two tools that have worked best for me:
Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch (Part# 080-216-012WB) - A slab-sided punch that clears the left side of the magwell, allowing you to drive out the punch without marring your lower. In addition, I put a piece of masking tape over the "hump" on the magwell for added protection.
KAK Walt's Tool - A long, roll pin punch starter, similar to the one you made.
First, I insert the bolt catch and use the Brownell's punch to line it up with the corresponding holes in the lower. Then I start off the roll pin with the KAK punch and then drive it in about 90% of the way with a regular solid punch (instead of a roll pin punch). This is to prevent the end of the roll pin from "mushrooming" if there is too much resistance. Then I finish it off with a 3/32" roll pin punch. Done.
The one big mistake people make with a roll pin is using a punch that has a conical tip. Under pressure, it expands the pin and makes it harder to install. A flat face, or hollow punch like the one here is much better.
Great Vid. I built one and it sure saves a lot of time and headaches. Thanks for sharing.
It works very well. The slave pin is a must.
Aero lowers nowadays eliminates all that with a threaded pin and a few other great features but that is a very good tip 👍🤪🇺🇲
I cringe when I see someone squeeze those little ears with taped pliers. Break one off and you throw that lower in the trash.
Great tip Joe. So many people do this wrong glad you made it so simple. I will be sharing it...
Thanks. I don't believe in struggling if I don't have to.
if you shut the hammer on the trigger it generally will hold the bolt catch in place without needing something to hold it. ive also built an AR lower entirely with a vice. not even using a hammer get creative chat its just pounding a pin in a hole you dont need any fancy tools like some other people commenting were talking about not having.
Absolutely the best video on TH-cam on the topic
Did you see the series on the production of that lower?
@@joepie221 no but I will go back and check it out!
I love finding new channels and ways of doing things!
@@brianneedham6060 www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
Store bought ones go inside the pin and can expand the diameter under drive in pressure. OD nesting is the way to go.
You sir, are a genius. This is awesome. I now have two tools which cost me around $3.
Glad I could help
DONE= scratched!
Nifty trick! I was saved the hassle of using a roll pin for the bolt catch on my Stag 10, because Stag cleverly replaced that piece with a pin that's threaded on the end, but I'll need to install a bolt catch roll pin soon. I'll give this a try.
I have got into the habit of tapping the hole and using a 3/8" long grub screw. Makes it easier if I want to change the bolt catch to something different later on. Good tip though, Joe. I struggled with the first couple ARs I built because of that stupid roll pin.
Ive pushed in quite a few catch pibs with the taped channel locks method...never had any problems 👍🏾
Yet.
Man this just helped me out so much!
Thanks, Joe. Very well done and so simple.
Easy installation. Just need to make custom fab tools for something many people will only do once.
Instead of getting wire from a "local welder" and bending it, why not use a small Allen key? Lubricate the holes, get the roll pin stated, then slowly and carefully squeezed it in with some vice grips.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. You choose the one that makes you happy. Me...I'll never use taped up vise grips to install a bolt catch pin. You snap one of those ears off and the lower is trash.
Looks like you nicked the finish. Your homemade roll pin starter looks great but use a proper roll pin punch to finish. It will allow you to recess the pin just a bit without damaging your upper.
I only purchase uppers (correction ‘lower’) that have a grove running across that extended section. If a manufacturer doesn’t take this extra step- he doesn’t earn my money.. Best video on this instillation. Thanks
All Black Rifles Matter
You said upper?
My bad
OMG start the roll pin fist from the rear to where it just protrudes into the gap, put all the other parts in, squeeze the roll pin into place with a pair of channel locks with a little electrical tape wrapped arround them. I had no idea people thought this was hard to do until I was looking arround on u-tube and found out how many people make this harder that it needs to be. Once you start to squeeze the channel plocks you can wiggle arround the stop to get it lined up with the free hand. I didnt even use a vise to hold the reciever when i was younger, arthritis made me a littlle less sure handed.
I would never tell anyone to squeeze those tabs with vise grips, wrapped in tape or not. Its a common practice, but that small piece of aluminum shouldn't be squeezed with anything.
@@joepie221 if you will note i said channel locks, not vice grips. Big difference. If you cant judge the pressure you are putting on a roll pin for crying out loud then yes don't use this method. But is reality there is far less chance of damaging it with the easy pressure of channel locks that a drift and a hammer. Come on!! Lets beat on it rather than gently push. The parts fill the gap as well and you have already started the pin in the near side hole. I think maybe someone just want to be an internet expert.
That 3/32" slave pin, wire is a great idea. Good job on the homemade punch & pin starter too.
After machining that lower from a solid block, the punch and pin starter were a piece of cake. Thanks for the comment.
I just use a broken off piece of wooden q-tip. It’s also the perfect size, and it is slightly flexible.
Good thought.
The wire tip was great!
I would turn a feature on second side of the punch that has a first diameter that fits into the center hole of the pin and then the second diameter is only slightly thicker than the wall thickness of the pin. That way you will never catch on the receiver itself. A correct diameter hole transfer punch should do fine also.
A flat step on the punch as you first mentioned would be better than a transfer punch or tapered pin because it would expand the roll pin less, by driving on the end of the pin, and not from the inside diameter of the pin. You want to push straight on end of the pin and not from the inner diameter of the pin, which would do work to expand it.
ok. i rarely watch gun vids. this tip will directly translate to a watch pin issue ive been having though, and i thank you for that!
Excellent. The slave pin technique really helps to align things you can't see. I use it in many applications. This is just one. Thanks for the comment.
I don't know if some companies make AR-15 lowers with a threaded hole and threaded pin or not. I haven't looked into it. However, on my AERO Precision AR-10 (308) lower it is threaded with a Torx head and it makes it very easy to install.
I believe they do. I like the idea. Since I made this lower, I should have considered that upgrade.
Aero M4E1 is threaded... along with the rear takedown to stop the spring from flying when replacing the stock
Similar to how I do it. I put masking tape on my lower just in case I slip. Nice work
Thanks.
Or, you could just get a proper roll pin punch set. They're not expensive and they're made specifically for roll pins. As for a slave pin, a small allen wrench works A-OK and is pretty easy to find if you don't already have one.
It's easier than finding a local welder for a filler rod and drilling your own hole into a blank piece of steel rod!
For sure you have many options. This is mine.
Grace sells a pin punch that is specifically for the bolt catch. It has a notched side so it doesn't mar the receiver while driving the pin . However it's nice to see some people still have ingenuity great video Joe.
Beware the pin punch that goes inside the pin. Some of these have a radius where the small and large diameters come together. Under pressure, the radius will expand the pin and make it harder to drive in. A hollow driver like the one shown here is better for split roll pin installation.
@@joepie221 I was talking about the hole in the end punch. I have and use both though and I agree if you don't have the proper fit it can create problems. That aside I have respect for the fact that you had the ingenuity & took the time to fabricate your own punch. You do solid work thanks for sharing Joe.
@@KingOfTheLosers13 Did you get an opportunity to watch the fabrication series on that lower before it came down?
@@joepie221 no I didn't I was looking for it but couldn't find it.
@@KingOfTheLosers13 www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
Brownells makes an Offset Roll Pin punch that allows you to install it from the rear. You won't mark up your receiver, as displayed on the rear of the bolt catch here.
A lot of people don't realize if you drive a roll pin from the inside, it expands it and makes it harder to seat. Roll pins should be installed either dead ended or in a cup. Its easier.
I've messed up TWO lowers installing this POS! Probably THE MOST frustrating part to install!!!
AeroPrecision makes a M4E1 lower that actually makes this a threaded rod rather than a punchable pin. They improved this unlike everyone else. It is however a little more money. Just an FYI. I damaged multiple before seeing these
Slick trick! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Didn't know Jim Belushi was an AR enthusiast!
You should see how that lower was machined from a solid block.
While you’re making punches make a roll pin punch and grind about 4.5” of the side of the punch then with a little tape on the receiver you won’t scratch the side of the receiver. As a gunsmith if I scratched the side of the reciever as you did some customers will complain.
I made the receiver from a solid block of aluminum. I can probably make that scratch disappear.
Slick I like that trick! I will say I've used the vise grip method a number of times and it's worked for me and hasn't damaged the lower at all but I suppose it's possible
Pretty much exactly how we do it in the shop. We made a starter punch and then found an extra length roll pin punch, with the little centering nub on the end. That guy almost guarantees not to damage the receiver as it is the same diameter as the pin. Then just a dab of super black to color the pin.
I've never seen anyone install the roll pin from the front. Never have I had any trouble installing the roll pins either.
I have.
FYI, you can use a roll pin starter punch vs drilling your own to drive it through.
His tool is easier to use though if you have the tools/patience. The wire is a good tip.
just wanted to thank you for the helpful video, btw i found that a 5/64 allen key does the trick of your wire you used to keep hole aligned, i rigged a driver per your instructions and viola she is in man!
Glad it helped
I have a roll pin starter punch for that, the piece of wire from the front is a must unless you have three hands. Yeah, you have to install the mag release first, thanks for the reminder.
Unless its a hollow punch like the one shown, a flat face punch is the next best thing. Don't use a pin punch with a pointed tip it expands the roll pin when it meets resistance and makes it even harder to drive in.
A 5/64 allen key works a slave pin too. Great video and thank u!
Great job Joe, now your are ready to install a new hammer spring on a Thompson Contender.;>)
Brilliant. Was having problems lining up the hole and roll pin. I'll use your slave pin idea next time.
Thank you sir I was at this point and I wasn't sure what to do big thumbs 👍 up
Thanks. Be gentle to those little blocks.
Awesome video man. Quick, to the point and very informative.
Glad you liked it. Did you catch the series showing the machining of that lower from a solid block?
Joe Pieczynski Not yet but I will, thanks.
@@robertgolden1080 The series is on another platform. www.firearmstalk.com/threads/ar-lower-done-by-a-true-machinist.124416/
I used a pice of wire coat hanger that i found in my closet, i cut it and bent it with pliers , the wire coat hangers come in one or two different thicknesses .
Thank You, you are very skilled! I learned alot from your approach.
Absolutely genius! Thank you for this video
talk to you guys in 1000 years when i still cant find those tools
Joe, Well done very clever. I'll be making my own tools.
you're a problem solver Joe - good for you
wow, why didn't i think of that. i must be getting old. great job , thanks!
Perfect. However, lubricate before install.
Very nice, thank you for sharing with the TH-cam community.
You may enjoy the 10 part series on my Google Plus page.
That was FANTASTIC!!! Thank you!! Subscribed!!!
You may also enjoy some of the related content found here. Thanks for the sub. plus.google.com/101634339622119637681
Thank You for this!!! Tomorrow i'll get these tools
Thanks for this pops! That was a quick job…
The slave pin works well.
Excellent video for a bolt catch installation.....................Thank you
Totally inspired Joe and logical too. Hope I don't have to bother but like Chuck, wondering the best way to drift that pin out again, safely - if in fact that would necessary.
Good tip! I have\use roll pin starter punches and roll pin punches like is mentioned by an earlier comment. I also have one designed specifically for the AR that is milled flat on one side...
Punches with conical tip leads that go inside the pin will locate them just fine, but under impact, that same conical feature will spread the pin and add to resistance. Roll pins should not be driven from the ID.
Joe Pieczynski good point... Though mine have just a slight some that only serves to center the punch on the pin and the outside diameter is what drives the punch. They are truly better used and invaluable in removing the roll pin. My method is similar to yours...start it with a roll pin starter punch and finishing with the biggest flat punch.
I've picked up tons of good tips and methods from you... Thanks for sharing your experience!
Well done, just the tip I was looking for.
I made that lower from a solid block of aluminum. Did you see the series before it came down?
Good job , you can also use this technique on the gas block gas tube install ! Thanks
Thank you.
You bet.
So simple but so affective I like it 👍 thanks
A PROPER SIZED ROLL PIN STARTER PUCH WILL DO THE SAME THING...IF YOU WORK ON GUNS AT ALL YOU SHOULD HAVE A SET OF BOTH ROLL PIN STARTER AND ROLL PIN PUNCHES!
I don't work on them. This lower was machined 100% from a solid block as a machining training video many years ago.
WHY ARE YOU YELLING?
Nice video.
Double check for a taper on the end of the roll pin before starting.
Lube everything first
Make the starter rod/tool out of brass ;)
Just as a caution, brass will still nick aluminum. I was pissed when I hit the edge. I made that lower from a solid billet and it was flawless.
@@joepie221 Well, at least it was you that did the deed. It really sucks when you hand something off to a "buddy" and later they hand it back kanked......
Yep the taper on the roll pin that's what got me😏
Very good video, and great idea. So what is the best method to REMOVE that roll pin, when you want to install a new and improved bolt release ?
Aero Precision solved this labor intensive procedure, just make a threaded pin with an Allen head and just screw it in.
That's not the point of this video. If you're not aware, not every lower is an M4E1 made by Aero Precision.
Grind the magwell extrusion out of the way, insert the roll pin from the front, then reverse grind the magwell to replace the lost material. EZ PZ
So obvious its scary. I bet thats why some power tool run in reverse. If you screw up, you can undo it. Brilliant.
Joe Pieczynski Lol, love your videos. They really give me practical knowledge as a hobbist that it would takes a professional years to learn through Mistakes. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching them. Glad to help you guys.