This is by far the best B&B tutorial I have seen. Even listing and showing specific brands, wiping your finger with a baby wipe 😂 I love that you included EVERY detail.
I have been looking at various tutorials for the most condensed (and accurate) steps for doing a b&b wall. This is by far THE BEST tutorial I’ve come across. 🙌🏼 You show and explain things very clearly and skip anything unnecessary. Great job-love how it turned out too!
I’m working on a board and batten wall in my living room. I’ve had nothing but issues lol. Your video is VERY informative I wish I would have seen this video a few weeks ago. Thanks for posting🎉
Beautiful. I’m doing the same thing in my new Granddaughters room. We are using tangerine and can’t wait to see it complete. I’ve never done this before and a little nervous.
Made my way over here from your TikToks and IG. You made this so simple and easy to follow! Thank you :) Guest bedroom is getting a makeover similar to this!
Thank you for a great video! We followed a lot of the instructions you gave, and loved the inch calculator, that took so much guess work out of the project.
Hi, so it doesn't matter how long the wall is when determining the height of your board and batten. I typically recommend that your board and batten go up 2/3's of the wall. So for example, my ceilings are 8ft tall and my accent walls goes up to 5ft.
I do miter the ends of the horizontal boards but you don’t have to! You can definitely just butt them together because you will caulk that seem and not be able to tell.
Our baseboards in this home are just 1"x6" primed pined boards so the vertical boards from the board and batten are the same width as the baseboards and don't hang over.
What do you mean? Are you asking if it will make the room look smaller? If you think they will be too close together then you can space them apart farther. If you need a visual, use painters tape on the wall to lay it out and see if you like the spacing.
That is totally up to you, there is no right or wrong way. I will tell you that designers paint the baseboards of an accent wall the same color as the accent wall (I do too).
Such a helpful tutorial, thank you!! Couple questions: Did you paint the door trim green? And do you recommend starting on the wall that you see when entering the room, or is it better to start on the wall that has a door (so you don’t end up with weird spacing when you get to the door)?
Thank you! I did paint the door trim green and keep meaning to paint the back of the door itself green too for a really cohesive look. But at a minimum, yes paint the door trim in the room to match the color of the board and batten. You can really start the accent wall on any wall but if you have a wall that will be more bare and more seen than the others, start on that wall so you can ensure you will have a really nice, even pattern. Most of the walls in this room I did ended up with furniture on them so none of them are bare. So if you have a wall that will be seen the most, start on that wall :)
There really is no “correct height”. It’s totally up to you. In general, I recommend that your accent wall go up 2/3 up the height of your wall. But it will also save you money if you keep your vertical boards at 48”. That way you can buy 8ft boards and cut them all exactly in half and get two 48” boards from one 8ft piece. If you go over 48”, then you’ll just be left with offcuts and will have to buy twice as much wood. My wall had 6” baseboards, 48” vertical boards plus another 6” horizontal board on top for total height of my accent wall at 60” and I have 8ft ceilings so that’s about 2/3s of my wall.
hi ashley, i'm very new to this kind of thing and i'm wondering, what kind of paint can we use to apply to the wall and the batten? is that just a regular wall paint? thanks ashley..
I try to aim for a stud. If there is no stud behind the board then I use an X method where I aim one nail downward into the board and then aim the next nail upward into the board and the two different directions suck the board into the wall.
Did you find your Brad Nailer was efficient for this job? I'm looking between getting one of these or a finish nailer and am not sure which would be best for a diy'er like myself
100% go with the Brad nailer. I’ve done over 10 accent walls with it and countless other diy projects and home renovations. We have a finishing nailer and the only time we have ever used it is for small, thin trim work on furniture. Finishing nails can’t secure boards to walls or anything like that typically.
You already had 1x6 as the floor trim and 1x4 cased widows without a sill. Most retrofits will need to deal with replacing/ retrofitting these which will be a big job. You probably should have pointed this out.
I added both the baseboards and window trim myself, however neither are needed to accomplish this accent wall. This accent wall can be done exactly the same without adding either of those. People can do this right on their existing baseboards. If you were a follower of mine, you would have seen that I have shared a tutorial on how to add this and keep your existing baseboards.
I am using the stock blade that came on the miter saw which is a T40. I have since upgraded to a larger Ryobi miter saw but I’ve never had any issues with the stock blades.
Yes it will. We had plaster in our last house and I used a nail gun to add board and batten in that house. I have another video on my profile called “How to use a Brad nailer” and I show how to increase the power of the nail coming out of the Brad nailer which you may need to do with plaster walls.
Yes, I used regular interior paint on the walls and boards. All the boards I purchased were primed pine so they already had a primer on them. The only thing I had to prime was that little ledge I added to the top of the horizontal board because it was raw pine.
@@mrsashleyfrench typo sorry. Outlets. With the calculator you might end up having a board run over the top of an outlet. Did you account for that somehow?
@@byrny111 After I use the calculator, I like to go measure it out on the walls, sometimes using painter's tape to mark it out on the walls and see if it lands a board over an outlet. If it does, I try to adjust my calculator by just an inch or so to avoid outlets. It's a pain to cut a board to fit over/around an outlet so I try to avoid it at all costs. I've even adjusted my boards by one inch on just one of the 4 walls in a room to avoid an outlet on that one wall and the change of 1" is not noticeable to the eye at all.
In this video I am using my original Miter saw which is the Ryobi corded, 7.25" sliding compound miter saw. Here is the link: rstyle.me/+iB1xyeQJxcZfwww_2TRTdg It is a great beginner saw. Now I have upgraded to the Ryobi battery operated 10" sliding compounf miter saw, linked here: rstyle.me/+tpjwIcDHTOgxA9CTjYNJsw
We had already replaced the baseboards when we added the LVP flooring prior to doing the accent wall. So this room had new 6" baseboards when I started on the accent wall.
I honestly do not know what I paid. I know I purchased 14 of the 1x3's for the vertical boards, 4 of the 1x6's for the horizontal board, and 4 of the 1x2's for the ledge.
Not all the nails in the vertical boards will hit a wood stub behind the drywall since the studs are spaced 16" apart and my vertical boards don't line up perfectly with the studs. But you don't need to hit a stud. In the video I show how I angle my nail gun a bit and shoot the nails in a bit at an angle to create an X which tightly hugs the boards to the wall. A 2" brad nail is sufficient to hold these kinds of boards to the wall without hitting a stud.
I’ve never used glue and I’ve never had any issues. I’ve done probably 7 walls like this and never had a board fall off. You’d have to pry them off to remove them.
I wish I had kept track of that when I did it, but I didn't. Probably a few hundred dollars in wood. You could do it a bit cheaper by using MDF instead of pine or by using skinnier boards.
@@mrsashleyfrench Thank you! We are finally going to tackle this project. I want to use the current bottom board in my house. However, that is 0.25" thick. What do you recommend I can do? I really don't want to rip that bottom board off.
@@iovannawakefield2657 I made a video with an option if you want to keep your existing baseboards: th-cam.com/users/shortsAdKZ0q00Azs?si=0LtaglvlnTL4AT1U
what would y'all suggest if you do not already have the "farmhouse style" baseboards? We have the rounded baseboards in the room we want to add board and batten to and do not want to replace all the baseboards. Would you add a 1x6 right above the baseboard or just start the vertical boards right on top of the existing baseboards? TIA for any suggestions! @mrsashleyfrench
This is by far the best B&B tutorial I have seen. Even listing and showing specific brands, wiping your finger with a baby wipe 😂 I love that you included EVERY detail.
Thank you! I tried to include everything :)
I agree I literally just had my husband take back the backing board since we don’t need it !
I have been looking at various tutorials for the most condensed (and accurate) steps for doing a b&b wall. This is by far THE BEST tutorial I’ve come across. 🙌🏼 You show and explain things very clearly and skip anything unnecessary. Great job-love how it turned out too!
Agree! I've been watching these videos for dayyyyys and this is the absolute best one
I’ve watched a lot of board and batten videos, and yours is the best, very thorough.
Thank you so much!
I’m working on a board and batten wall in my living room. I’ve had nothing but issues lol. Your video is VERY informative I wish I would have seen this video a few weeks ago. Thanks for posting🎉
Thank you so much! :)
Now, you made this task look so easy!! Thank you for sharing and I am working on my foyer at this time!!
GREAT tutorial 👌 clear, precise and to the point absolutely loved it and most importantly lovely result too.
Thank you! I hope it was helpful!
Great job sweetheart
Excellent and detailed instructions - thank you! I am excited to start this project soon
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful :)
Beautiful. I’m doing the same thing in my new Granddaughters room. We are using tangerine and can’t wait to see it complete. I’ve never done this before and a little nervous.
You've got this!
I've been thinking of doing this and this video is giving me more courage to try than to hire someone. Thanks!!
I will be doing this in a very large room and your video answered a lot of my questions. Very well done and explained. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad it was helpful! :)
The wall looks beautiful , great video Thank you 🇨🇦
Thank you!
Made my way over here from your TikToks and IG. You made this so simple and easy to follow! Thank you :)
Guest bedroom is getting a makeover similar to this!
I’m so happy it was helpful! :)
Thank you for a great video! We followed a lot of the instructions you gave, and loved the inch calculator, that took so much guess work out of the project.
Yes that calculator has been so helpful for me too! 😊
Great video.. I believe the Carpenters triangle is called a speed square
You're right :)
Omg!! Jaw drop! I love it!
You made that look so easy! I wouldn’t have thought of using a spacer board. Love how it turned out. Thanks for sharing. Becky
Thank you!
Thanks for the video, excellent tutorial! Thanks for taking the time out to share!
You're welcome!
THANK YOU! This was very detailed and helpful!
Beautiful job!!! Love your thorough explanation, also! ❤👍🏽
Great job, I will come back for more information as I do this
Thank you!
Thanks! Best description I’ve found👊👊
Thank you so much!
Wow, I'm impressed. Nice job.
Thank you!
Excellent! Looks wonderful!
Thank you!
Outstanding presentation.. Thank you... I'm inspired to do it myself...🤔🤔🤔😄😄😄
Thank you! You can do it!!
This was super helpful. Thank you ☺️
You are so welcome!!
Great Tutorial
Simply lovely!
Thank you!
Excellent video! This was so helpful!!
Thank you!
Outstanding and thank you!!
You're welcome!
Hi thank you so much for your tutorial, my question to you is, I have 111" long wall, can you recommend how high I sure go with the broad Batten!
Hi, so it doesn't matter how long the wall is when determining the height of your board and batten. I typically recommend that your board and batten go up 2/3's of the wall. So for example, my ceilings are 8ft tall and my accent walls goes up to 5ft.
Hi Ashley! Did you mitre cut the all of the corners, or were the boards butted together?
I do miter the ends of the horizontal boards but you don’t have to! You can definitely just butt them together because you will caulk that seem and not be able to tell.
Hi Ashley,
Great video! What paint color did you use? I absolutely LOVE it
It was called Oakmoss by Sherwin Williams.
This turned out beautifully! Can you share what type of wood are you using for the baseboards? Also, does the primed pine extend of that baseboard?
Our baseboards in this home are just 1"x6" primed pined boards so the vertical boards from the board and batten are the same width as the baseboards and don't hang over.
THE VERY BEST!!!
Thank you!
Awesome explanation. Thank You!
Great job! Thanks for this video)
Q: If you put the vertical boards up 16 inches apart on a 12-foot wall will it shrink the room?
What do you mean? Are you asking if it will make the room look smaller? If you think they will be too close together then you can space them apart farther. If you need a visual, use painters tape on the wall to lay it out and see if you like the spacing.
I really enjoyed your video. Question: Did you change the baseboard as well?
We did replace the baseboards in the whole house and used 1”x6” boards for the baseboards.
should you leave the baseboards white or paint the same color as the wall? Thanks!
That is totally up to you, there is no right or wrong way. I will tell you that designers paint the baseboards of an accent wall the same color as the accent wall (I do too).
Such a helpful tutorial, thank you!! Couple questions: Did you paint the door trim green? And do you recommend starting on the wall that you see when entering the room, or is it better to start on the wall that has a door (so you don’t end up with weird spacing when you get to the door)?
Thank you! I did paint the door trim green and keep meaning to paint the back of the door itself green too for a really cohesive look. But at a minimum, yes paint the door trim in the room to match the color of the board and batten. You can really start the accent wall on any wall but if you have a wall that will be more bare and more seen than the others, start on that wall so you can ensure you will have a really nice, even pattern. Most of the walls in this room I did ended up with furniture on them so none of them are bare. So if you have a wall that will be seen the most, start on that wall :)
Great video. Did you also caulk around the top horizontal board?
Yes I did :)
Hi Ashley, GREAT video. Thank you!
Quick question, Can I use Alexandria Moulding MDF primed for these project? Keep it up and thanks again.
Yes you can absolutely use that!
Awesome. Appreciate it. Thanks!!!!
I agree that this is one of the best videos. But she did not talk about what height is best for what ceiling height.
There really is no “correct height”. It’s totally up to you. In general, I recommend that your accent wall go up 2/3 up the height of your wall. But it will also save you money if you keep your vertical boards at 48”. That way you can buy 8ft boards and cut them all exactly in half and get two 48” boards from one 8ft piece. If you go over 48”, then you’ll just be left with offcuts and will have to buy twice as much wood. My wall had 6” baseboards, 48” vertical boards plus another 6” horizontal board on top for total height of my accent wall at 60” and I have 8ft ceilings so that’s about 2/3s of my wall.
very helpful
hi ashley,
i'm very new to this kind of thing and i'm wondering, what kind of paint can we use to apply to the wall and the batten? is that just a regular wall paint? thanks ashley..
Hi there, yes you can use any normal interior wall paint in any sheen you'd like. For this room, I used a satin sheen.
Great work! Can you explain how you nailed the boards?
I try to aim for a stud. If there is no stud behind the board then I use an X method where I aim one nail downward into the board and then aim the next nail upward into the board and the two different directions suck the board into the wall.
Did you find your Brad Nailer was efficient for this job? I'm looking between getting one of these or a finish nailer and am not sure which would be best for a diy'er like myself
100% go with the Brad nailer. I’ve done over 10 accent walls with it and countless other diy projects and home renovations. We have a finishing nailer and the only time we have ever used it is for small, thin trim work on furniture. Finishing nails can’t secure boards to walls or anything like that typically.
You already had 1x6 as the floor trim and 1x4 cased widows without a sill. Most retrofits will need to deal with replacing/ retrofitting these which will be a big job. You probably should have pointed this out.
I added both the baseboards and window trim myself, however neither are needed to accomplish this accent wall. This accent wall can be done exactly the same without adding either of those. People can do this right on their existing baseboards. If you were a follower of mine, you would have seen that I have shared a tutorial on how to add this and keep your existing baseboards.
@@mrsashleyfrenchhi, can you link to the video where you do this on existing baseboards?
@@tiffanievendryes here it is; th-cam.com/users/shortsAdKZ0q00Azs?si=bIjr4RlFzgXyf1Q0
Thank you so much
Did you use the stock 40T blade to make your cuts? Thanks! Great video!
I am using the stock blade that came on the miter saw which is a T40. I have since upgraded to a larger Ryobi miter saw but I’ve never had any issues with the stock blades.
Do you think a brad nailer like this will work on plaster walls?
Yes it will. We had plaster in our last house and I used a nail gun to add board and batten in that house. I have another video on my profile called “How to use a Brad nailer” and I show how to increase the power of the nail coming out of the Brad nailer which you may need to do with plaster walls.
Ty for this video saved me 70$ more
Yay! You are so welcome!
What paint sheen should I use for the wall?
It’s totally up to you. I like Satin because it’s not too shiny but you can still wipe it down if needed.
I may have missed it but what size is the top board?
It was a 6" primed pine board. You could totally go with a 4" board as well.
Thank you for sharing!
Of course!
Is it wall paint that you used also on the wood panels ?
Yes, I used regular interior paint on the walls and boards. All the boards I purchased were primed pine so they already had a primer on them. The only thing I had to prime was that little ledge I added to the top of the horizontal board because it was raw pine.
@@mrsashleyfrench Thank you so much!🥰
How did you decide how tall to make it up the wall?
I usually go up 60% of the wall with the board and batten. I just think that looks the best.
Any tips on how to hide the knots on pine?
I try to buy pieces of wood without large knots. If you can't avoid it, then I would do a thick coat of primer in the knot before painting the board.
@@mrsashleyfrench Knotting, is a brown shellac
Why didn’t you paint the boards prior to putting them on the wall?
There is no rule that says you have to do it one way or the other. I like to paint after the boards are up :)
How do you avoid outlets with boards
Was that a typo? I'm not sure what you are asking.
@@mrsashleyfrench typo sorry. Outlets. With the calculator you might end up having a board run over the top of an outlet. Did you account for that somehow?
@@byrny111 After I use the calculator, I like to go measure it out on the walls, sometimes using painter's tape to mark it out on the walls and see if it lands a board over an outlet. If it does, I try to adjust my calculator by just an inch or so to avoid outlets. It's a pain to cut a board to fit over/around an outlet so I try to avoid it at all costs. I've even adjusted my boards by one inch on just one of the 4 walls in a room to avoid an outlet on that one wall and the change of 1" is not noticeable to the eye at all.
How tall are your vertical boards? I am not sure how tall to use considering our ceiling is 8ft.
My vertical boards are 48” tall. My baseboards are 6”.
What is the model number on your Mitter Saw?
In this video I am using my original Miter saw which is the Ryobi corded, 7.25" sliding compound miter saw. Here is the link: rstyle.me/+iB1xyeQJxcZfwww_2TRTdg It is a great beginner saw. Now I have upgraded to the Ryobi battery operated 10" sliding compounf miter saw, linked here: rstyle.me/+tpjwIcDHTOgxA9CTjYNJsw
Muy bien hecho.
En habitaciones de bebes quiero ver
How tall is your board&batten overall?
My walls are 8ft high and the board and batten measures 60" from the floor to the top of the horizontal board (that includes the 6" baseboard).
Did you remove your base board?
We had already replaced the baseboards when we added the LVP flooring prior to doing the accent wall. So this room had new 6" baseboards when I started on the accent wall.
How much did this cost you in materials?
I honestly do not know what I paid. I know I purchased 14 of the 1x3's for the vertical boards, 4 of the 1x6's for the horizontal board, and 4 of the 1x2's for the ledge.
Are you punching nails into wood behind the wall?
Not all the nails in the vertical boards will hit a wood stub behind the drywall since the studs are spaced 16" apart and my vertical boards don't line up perfectly with the studs. But you don't need to hit a stud. In the video I show how I angle my nail gun a bit and shoot the nails in a bit at an angle to create an X which tightly hugs the boards to the wall. A 2" brad nail is sufficient to hold these kinds of boards to the wall without hitting a stud.
@@mrsashleyfrench i also see you said you never glue. Have you had any issues with the boards not staying put?
I’ve never used glue and I’ve never had any issues. I’ve done probably 7 walls like this and never had a board fall off. You’d have to pry them off to remove them.
Why not paint the wall before you add the boards?
You totally can!
It would bother me not having the rectangles not be all the same size or wrapping around a corner.
They are all the same size with the exception of the closet wall. But we are talking such a slight difference that you can't see it with your eye.
What was the total $$ of this project?
I wish I had kept track of that when I did it, but I didn't. Probably a few hundred dollars in wood. You could do it a bit cheaper by using MDF instead of pine or by using skinnier boards.
@@mrsashleyfrench Thank you! We are finally going to tackle this project. I want to use the current bottom board in my house. However, that is 0.25" thick. What do you recommend I can do? I really don't want to rip that bottom board off.
@@iovannawakefield2657 I made a video with an option if you want to keep your existing baseboards: th-cam.com/users/shortsAdKZ0q00Azs?si=0LtaglvlnTL4AT1U
@ thank you! ♥️
Thanks
glue...
Right! No glue or joinery. That wood will move and all that paint will crack in the joints. 😞
I don’t like that in the first wall you made two corner columns and then stopped that on the second wall.
The L is silent in caulk
what would y'all suggest if you do not already have the "farmhouse style" baseboards? We have the rounded baseboards in the room we want to add board and batten to and do not want to replace all the baseboards. Would you add a 1x6 right above the baseboard or just start the vertical boards right on top of the existing baseboards? TIA for any suggestions! @mrsashleyfrench
Yes, I have a work around for this and just posted it as a Shorts video. Here you go: th-cam.com/users/shortsAdKZ0q00Azs?si=_eTNu6Rq1h9HMAm3
@@mrsashleyfrench that’s perfect, thanks so much!!
Thanks