The Fragrance Wheel Fragrance Families Florals Ambers Woody Fresh Oriental Perfumes Types Categories
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hello, welcome to my channel! Thanks for being here & for the huge response to my previous video, I am so happy that you enjoyed it! ❤️
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🌟 About this video:
So did you ever think about your taste in fragrance and wonder whether there is a pattern to it? Is it particular fragrance notes? A particular perfume style? Or a particular fragrance family that you love?
Well if you haven't seen the fragrance wheel before, it's simply a way of organising fragrances into a series of overlapping categories, much like a colour wheel. Why is this useful? Well thinking about it can help to clarify what your perfume taste exactly is...
So what do you think? Does the fragrance wheel cover it? How would you categorise your perfume tastes? Do you love one particular fragrance family?
🌟 Timestamps
0:00 Intro: why is the fragrance wheel useful?
1:32 The history of the fragrance wheel and the idea behind it
2:55 Floral: Florals, Soft Florals, Floral Ambers
5:57 Ambers: (A note on Oriental) Soft Ambers, Ambers, Woody Ambers
9:50 Woods: Woody, Mossy Woods, Dry Woods (Leathers)
12:46 Fresh: Aromatic, Citrus, Watery / Aquatic, Green, Fruity
19:42 What's missing?
🌟Videos mentioned Watery / Aquatic fragrances:
What is Petrichor? • What Is Petrichor In P...
How to make things smell watery • How to Make a Perfume ...
🌟Perfumes mentioned
4711 Eau de Cologne
Acqua Di Parma Colonia
Cerruti 1881
Chanel Coco EDP
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP
Chloe Nomade EDP
Diesel D
Elie Saab Le Parfum
Gucci Bloom Nettare Di Fiori
Gucci Guilty Absolute
Hermès Un Jardin line
Hermès Ombre de Merveilles
Kayali Eden Juicy Apple 01
Kayali Lovefest Burning Cherry 48
Kenzo Jungle L'éléphant
Mac Turquatic
Marc Jacobs Eau So Decadent EDT
Moschino Funny!
Mugler Angel EDP
Mugler Angel Nova EDP
Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Poudrée
Penhaligons Halfeti
Prada Iris
Prada Paradoxe
Sarah Jessica Parker SJP Stash
Theodoros Kalotinis Alluring Fig
YSL Opium
#fragrancewheel #fragrancefamilies #perfumetypes #perfumepersonalities #startingaperfumecollection #whatis #howto #floralfragrances #floralperfumes #ambers #amberperfumes #amberfragrances #oriental #orientalperfumes #orientalfragrances #woodyperfumes #woody #woodyfragrances #fresh #freshperfumes #freshfragrances #freshies #fruityperfumes #fruityfragrances #aquaticfragrances #greenfragrances #citrusperfumes #perfumecollection #perfume #fragrance #howtostartaperfumecollection #perfumes #perfumehaul #perfumedeclutter #perfumetastes #perfumenotes #perfumesihate #perfumesilove #fragrancecollection #nicheperfumes #designerperfumes #indieperfumes #britishaccent #perfumeuk #designerfragrances #nichefragrances #indieperfume #trending #summerperfumes #fragrancereview #perfumereview - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
So true about gourmands not being part of traditional perfumery. They really should be added. This is such an interesting and informative video Claire! ❤️❤️
Thank you! Yes gourmands deserve some love! 😊
As a musician I was always looking for my "lucky scent" to wear at my concerts or performances. They are all special to me and I love them, but I´m now, thanks to you Clair starting to like soft florals and soft ambers!
Finding perfumes outside my normal box has brought me so much joy during normal days, just hanging around at home, doing some practicing on my baby grand or even relaxing with a good book. Wonderful to scent my whole day in different styles.
Gosh, that must be a very interesting, exciting and perhaps also sometimes exhausting career! Yes, I love different 'fumes for different moods too 😂 I really love the softer ones for being around the house. I find them relaxing. 🥰
Very informative for someone just learning about perfume. I thought I hated florals but turns out theres so many different florals
Thank you! Yep absolutely, if someone says they hate florals, I always suggest they try something with heliotrope or violet first! Those are underused in the designer perfume world especially. Also lilac and linden blossom but those are less friendly. Thanks for watching 🥰
Maybe, if the fragrance wheel gets edited, “spices” could become a category? I think Gourmands (probably my favorite) could go in there. Under the fresh category, I’d place “soapy/ laundry” in there.
Love from NJ USA.
Yes! I also felt like the laundry clean ones were a bit lacking... I think it does need an update and perhaps more focus on the more modern styles and names rather than the traditional ones.
Have a fab Sunday 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume I completely agree with you. ❤️🌹
👍
I always find it a bit annoying when people label 'fruity' fragrances as 'juvenile' ~ which happens a lot! They smell something fruity/sweet and associate it with kids and teens immediately.
Personally, I eat a lot of fruits and berries (I know berries are fruit too, but still like to mention them separately! lol) ~ if I had to eat only one category of foods for a whole year, I'd pick FRUIT without hesitation. I just love all fruit and berries; the way they taste, the way the look, the way they smell.... So *of course* that's reflected in my perfume preferences too! Why wouldn't it be?? I'm 41 so far from being a teenager or a child, but YES I still prefer fruity/sweet smells. I just don't understand the AGEISM that exists even in the perfume world! Why are adults/older people not 'allowed' to prefer and enjoy sweetness ??
Yes I don't get it either, to me a good and realistic fruity fragrance is hard to achieve and a very special and delicious thing. I love to wear fruity fragrances for the same reason as you, I adore eating berries especially 😊 i think along with the term oriental, judgements on masculine Vs feminine fragrances, describing fragrances as making you smell like that girl or a rich auntie or a boss... 🤣 Ageism comments really also get to me. Anyone any age or gender can enjoy any fragrance for sure.
Have a fab Sunday 🥰
Happy Saturday Dr. Claire. Another great lesson. I think of the wheel as just a springboard with loads of sub-categories embedded in them. I definitely lean towards Amber and woods but I can appreciate gourmands and some florals. I like keeping my options open because there could always be a gem hidden in a category and I’d hate to miss something.
Thank you 🥰 Yes for sure! I agree, I just try everything 🤣 I try to have an open mind now, because so many times I've been wrong and loved something that on paper, I should really not enjoy.
I agree that the wheel is just a way of organising the types to make it easier to see the breadth of the fragrance world, but yes, it doesn't cover everything and I find it very subjective as to where each fragrance sits exactly!
I hope you have a fab Sunday 🥰
Your videos are consistently fascinating and clearly take a lot of preparation! Cheers, Claire.
Thanks Jim 🙂 I really appreciate that. Have a lovely Sunday 🥰
We can’t skip the gourmands! Lol they are my favorite. Great information video. ❤
Thank you! ❤️ Yes gourmands need to be included somewhere!
Love your picks for these categories Claire!!!💞💞💞
Thanks Joss, have a fab Sunday 🥰
That's such an amazing and interesting video Claire ✨💕
Thank you! I thought it was something that I don't tend to think about much as I am always so focused on individual notes that I tend to forget the bigger picture, I guess this is the bigger picture! 🙂 Thanks for watching 🥰
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you
Aah no worries! I'm happy that you found it useful 🥰
What a fun video ☺️ thank for sharing Claire!
Thank you! 😊
I love this! It's such an easy, well articulated reference for anyone who wants a quick guide to understanding fragrance notes/families. Thank you!
Thank you 😊
Great information! Very informative. Really enjoyed it. Thank you Claire!
Thank you! I'm really happy to read that you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting me know ☺️
This is so informative claire thank you for this video, very well explained ❤
I'll definitely take note of this fragrance wheel.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that this was useful. 😊
I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing the best part of fragrance, knowledge and insight. Love your channel. Be blessed
Thank you, you too. 🥰
Hi Claire, love you brought this up in this video, as well that you added examples for the categories listed. I am into florals, floral woody, as well ambery and freshy. 🌺🌺
Thank you! Your taste sounds pretty diverse 😊
Good morning beautiful! I love your in-depth videos about fragrances. I appreciate the wheel I love light and citrus notes.
Good choices! Thanks for watching 🥰
This is so informative! I love the whole concept😊
Thank you! 🥰
Very informaitive, Claire. Thank you !
Thank you! 😊 Have a lovely Saturday 🥰
Genius, thank you Claire!❤️💛🧡🩵💙💜
No worries! 🥰
Good Morning Claire !
As always educating us in the Science of Perfumes. From the Fragrance wheel I enjoy the ambers or Oriental
Good choice, I love a lot of those too. 😊
Oooh it’s fun to think about what my wheel looks like! I’ve realised this year that I’m really fond of purple florals - I knew I loved violets but I really like lilac and wisteria a lot too. Iris and heliotrope seem to pop up in lots of things I like too! I’m mainly fresh, clean and fruity really (oi oi!) but I think I’ve at least got on finger in each slice of the pie though!
Yes me too! I never realised how much I love lilac, heliotrope and violets until about a year into TH-cam... It all clicked! Yes, I think I'd most associate clean florals with you if I had to guess. Thanks for watching ❤️
Thanks Claire! I enjoyed learning more about the fragrance wheel and agree that the gourmand category is missing.
Thank you! Yes gourmands need acknowledging... Thanks for watching 🥰
Hey Claire. I feel like I gravitate more towards the fresh fragrances with some fruit just because I’m preferring lighter scents right now. It would be nice if they updated the wheel since fragrances have changed so much. I didn’t even know there was a wheel at first. This was a great video
Thank you! Yes I think it certainly needs an overhaul. I know there are a few different versions, so perhaps an update has been done but not well publicised? Me too, I have been enjoying the lighter florals of late. Thanks for watching and have a lovely weekend 🥰
Wow Claire! What a great coincidence. Love this and just filmed something similar. I love your indepth knowledge. Excellent!
❤
Thank you! I look forward to your video 😊
I definitely love a wide variety of categories but the mossy woods is a category that I can’t get to feel like “me”. Maybe one day, maybe not 🤷🏽♀️
I absolutely think it’s great for getting a general idea of what scents traditionally mix well 😊
Thanks for this video!
Yeah I get that! I used to feel the same, I thought chypres were completely old school and not me. Thanks for watching ❤️
This was definitely helpful! Last night I decided to categorize my collection and I'm definitely an Amber/Floral lover. I have just one Aromatic and you are so right. The marine notes have always bothered me and I didn't know why until I watched this. I tend to avoid layering for some reason but I may give it a try now. Thank you Claire. I always learn from you.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm really happy that you found this useful. I think I am also very much amber/floral too, with a touch of woody. I have some aromatic and citrus fragrances too but they are rarely loves.
Thank you for bringing up 4711. That is one of my very favorite. My mother wore it and she was born in 1918.
Yes my grandmother wore it as a treatment for headaches, it was apparently widely known for that!
Thank you, Claire, for this in-depth video 🙏 I love ambers & woods 🧡🤎 There's so much new to learn!
Thank you! I'm happy that you enjoyed it! 🥰
Soo helpful!...thank you!
No problem. You might also like my perfume colours video if you've not already seen it, th-cam.com/video/TXCYYM-m5U0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FV3HHCRQAbbhH7Md Thanks for watching ❤️
I am a perfume lover and use wide variety of perfumes. This video is really nice, insightful and useful. Thank you Clair ❤
Thank you! Yes, I think my fragrance choices are pretty well spread across these categories too now 😊
very quality content of the video, really enjoyed and helped to see where i can fit in the taste and the parfums that I owned,
Thank you ❤️ I'm happy that you found this useful ☺️
Good Morning Claire 🤗 I agree!!! They missed a slice of our favorite gourmands lol 😊😉 I appreciate the wheel it gives an overall idea of a scent profile although there are times that I’m a bit confused as to what they are displaying and what I’m smelling 🤣
Yes, I found it quite hard to categorise fragrances, it's very subjective sometimes. I think one fragrance could often fit multiple categories. Thanks for watching ❤️
My perfume taste is so eclectic. Like my music taste. Although I can see a leaning towards ambers. But I think it’s genuinely because I’m one of those odd people that adores autumn and winter and my perfumes kind of celebrate these seasons. Great vid 🌻🙏🏽
Thank you! I think my scent preferences also suit autumn winter... I find the light summery ones a bit dull after a time but I do love summer still 🤷♀️ I love the sunshine and warmth. Thanks for watching 🥰
Ooh I love this topic. It’s funny, you don’t see a wheel or hear from salespeople in department stores talk about it but almost every indie fragrance designer/creator does. I’m such a fan girl for Mandy Aftel and her natural perfumery (tempted to put natural in quotes bc it’s all chemical compounds) and she’s developed her own wheel to help budding perfumers build their scent compositions. Her wheel includes a gourmand and animallic sections placed between floral and fresh. I don’t personally look at it much except when researching.
Hi Jackie! I was reading about the wheel and apparently sales assistants were trained to try to find fragrances that are of a similar category to those that customers already use, but yeah, I agree with you, you never see these fragrance wheel diagrams in mainstream shops or hear it mentioned... Maybe the idea faded from the designer world?
I have seen the wheel mentioned more by creators than retailers. I agree perfumers and even people interested in aromatherapy, candle making, soap making etc seem to be very familiar with the wheel.
Mandy Aftel's version of the wheel sounds much more appropriate for right now. I think definitely think the one here is missing several sections! Thanks for watching 🥰
Clare you never cease to amaze me 🤩 my taste is still all
Over the place but I have noticed that I’m moving a little bit away from the floral and enjoying the more earthy smells but also loving fruity 🤷♀️at the end of the day what I reach for depends on my mood or state of mind ,time of year
I think the fragrance wheel gives us a very loosely based idea of where the notes and ingredients Fall ( if that makes sense 🤷♀️
Hugs ❤
Yes I totally agree, it's just an idea of how different or similar.things are to each other. I personally found it quite hard to think about where my own fragrances should be positioned on it. I agree that what we reach for is often determined by seasons too 😊
Thanks for watching ❤️
Thanks for this video Claire.😀 Really glad tgo have a run through of the ''fragrance wheel''. You just proved what I already thought; I'm all over the place and love a bit of everything. Gourmands should definitely be in there at some point. A gradation of fruity and fruity florals maybe also. What about very musk forward fragrances?
An update is needed...
Yes, i totally agree Cat, I struggled to put the powdery and musky ones in that weren't floral, it didn't feel like they belonged in woods or ambers. There are certainly a few sections missing here! Thanks for watching, I hope you have a great week. 🥰
My favorite is woody, amber and a little bit of citrus.
Nice combination 😊 fresh but grounded and warm.
Thank you for this framework. I recently completed a spreadsheet of my fragrances by notes, but didn't think to categorize them along the wheel. It will be interesting to do so and see what categories are missing or thin in my collection. Thanks!
Oh no problem 🙂 yes! I need to do that with mine! I recently made a spreadsheet to keep track too 🙂 I think you will naturally not love some categories more than others, but filming this, I noticed that I have a real lack of woody fragrances. Thanks for watching 🥰
This is so interesting!!!
Have to admit, my taste seems to be VERY narrow, pretty much exactly within the quarter of the wheel.
I'm in the 'fresh' category; fruity, green, water and citrus..
That's interesting! Do you think that's also a little seasonal too?
I am new to this field, but find perfumery extremely interesting and planning to take it up as my hobby and passion. Its so very involving. I love it. Your video was simply superb. Maybe what I exactly was looking for to know the categories. Thank you so much. I have subscribed and liked. Will start watching your videos one by one.
That's really exciting! I hope you love it! And thank you ❤️ I hope you enjoy the videos 🥰
Same! I've been looking for a creator who breaks things down for me like I'm back in school -- perhaps elementary/primary school 😂 I'm really glad I found Dr. Claire 😊
The world of perfume and the aromas are addicting. If I could I'd spend all day learning about perfume and trying them out. I wonder what is going on with people like me?
the fragrance so beautiful
Thanks for watching 🥰
Floral/soft Amber s the perfect option
Tnks ❤
No problem, happy this was useful 🥰
Ohmygod, I learned so much - what amazing videos you make! Thank you! I'm rewatching and laughing at the part where it's theorized that most people really prefer/like just one area of the fragrance wheel. And you (like me) say that you actually like lots of areas, lol -- that's because we are addicted to fragrance and love trying everything! I think it's true that most people (the normal ones haha j/k) DO like one area the best. I certainly did before I became a fragrance addict 😆
🤣 I hadn't thought about it like that, but you are completely right, that one section theory is definitely for muggles isn't it not addicts? 🤣 I think the fragrance wheel is often used to help to train sales assistants so they are better placed to suggest fragrances that people might enjoy from what they currently own and like, so I guess that's part of where that theory comes from. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hello beautiful Claire! I also like different categories of the fragrance wheel and I also enjoy them combined, probably even more. I find straight up florals a little boring and I tend to tire of them quickly
Yes I think any fragrance that is relying on one type of note has to be amazing otherwise it's just not that interesting long term.
I've long ago realized that all of my favourite perfumes are described as floral ambers or florientals.
That's interesting that you gravitate towards that particular section of the wheel. I think I probably do too! 🥰
Roses, red berries, oud, sandalwood, patchouli, and moss are some of my favorite notes. Thinking of them in terms of a fragrance wheel is really interesting
Thank you! Yes, I guess those notes would make you think of a few overlapping categories. For me fruity is very broad, I'm not sure the fragrance wheel today really entirely reflects the focus and diversity of modern perfumery. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hello Claire,
I am so behind on my viewing. This was so informative (as usual).
I like the idea of a fragrance wheel for perfume, they have them for wine tasting and for colour theory in art. It makes total sense to me. 😁 I'm with you on liking a variety of profiles from the wheel. I do have notes I struggle with, most people have something they don't enjoy. I think my most challenging segment is the green smells. I do line some, but many in that category can either come off masculine leaning to my nose or they are something I prefer to smell in nature rather than wear. I will say, the more I smell the more I am open to new things. It makes it more interesting!
Thanks for another fantastic video! Take care! 💛😊✨
Hi Jenn 😊 I think there is huge crossover with smell, sight and taste, you are right, the wheels make total sense and are the same idea in each situation. Yes green is a struggle for me too in some forms. Especially when it's something dank and forest-like. Fresher, watery floral greens are sometimes nice though.
Thanks for watching 🥰
I have made full notes of this episode in word form. Very useful.
I hope it's useful 🥰
I do that as well. And then if they are long lasting I put two Capital LS
Yea other than vanilla, Gourmands just weren't around before. I think they used to put Vanilla and that coffee in Black Opiun in the more spice category of ambers. Love me certain vintage ambers, florals & 1970's chypres. Give me that carnation & aldehyde, orange flower & sandalwood, iris, violet or vetiver any day of the week and twice on Sundays. Have a real soft spot for those 90's soft water, cucumber and lotus fragrances but wear them less often than back in the day. A good spritz of the relaunced BBW Juniper Breeze or White Citrus this year just brings me back. I'm in my early 40's and have a collection of 60 fragrances, mostly body sprays & lotions with just over a dozen actual perfumes. All time favorite is I think close to one you wouldn't like based off the Floris review of White Rose you gave. I love what I think my Great Grand Ma would have worn, Vintage L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci but I also have oily skin and probably a different body chemistry. It's what makes fragrance so unique and personal for all of us and so fascinating. Great vid and information. Thank you!
Gourmands seem very recent in perfume history for sure... I don't know what it is, but 90s fragrances are so distinctive to me, maybe the aquatic / green fresh feel of them.
I have florabotanica with carnation and I used to have eternity with carnation (I struggled with that one) but that's about it. It's not a note that I am that familiar with. In fact I was shocked when I smelt eternity because in supermarkets carnations just smell cool, they don't smell spicy and paper like, as they do in fragrance... Yes variety is the joy of perfume and people's tastes for sure. Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume You know, I can't remember the last time I smelled Eternity or Euphoria for that matter. Have to give it a sniff when I get the chance. Yes, that green in the supermarket carnation is what I love too. Thanks for your thoughts and work!
THANK YOU
No problem 😊 thanks for watching ❤️
Great video, i would love to ask u for sorting these four perfumes to the categories u think theyre in (just wanna make sure i got the idea) - black icon, Clinique my happy peony picnic, olympea (rose one), and midnight fantasy by taylor swift (the navy blue one), thanks alot for the information!!
Thank you! I am sorry but I've never tried any of those fragrances so I would have to work off Fragrantica note profiles instead of my own experience of them, I would imagine your own categorisations would be more accurate because of this. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you
No worries ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
I love florals and fresh (citrusy/aqueous) perfumes.
Mmm I love those categories for spring summer! Thanks for watching ❤️
It's a useful tool, but needs to be adjusted/updated. In addition to the Gourmands I feel the animalic, dried, smoked, aged, and indolic scents could also do with a category.
Yes, there's certainly some categories that could encompass a bit of that, but I do think it either needs to be more explicitly explained what fits where or new categories specifically created. Thanks for watching 🥰
Good video. Thank you. Would not you put pleasures by Estee Lauder into the green category??
I think sometimes fragrances can be in more than one category, I don't own Pleasures, I've only tried it in store, so you are probably the better judge if you know this fragrance well. It's not about listed notes, it's about how it smells. If it's grassy to you with little florals then you should categorise it as green.
I am a forever freshie except for the heavy citruses ❤
I totally understand that! It must also suit the climate! Thanks for watching ❤️
I found this very interesting Claire. I'd never heard of the fragrance wheel and, thanks to your explanation and examples, I now know I have a fairly eclectic taste in perfumes 😊
The only longlasting citrus fragrances i have are Simone Andreoli's Malibu Party in the Bay (predominately lime and coconut) and Electric by Agent Provocateur (mainly lime and fig).
Have a lovely weekend in this glorious sunshine ❤❤ edited to say i got a sample of Shay & Blue's Sicilian Limes after your S&B video - 🤮 straight up curry.
Hi Fiona, thank you! Oh I keep hearing about that party in the bay fragrance, I really want to try that one, do you think it smells like virgin island water? Is electric the one that Is meant to be a bit BR540 like?
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend Shay and blue at all, I think it's just that brand is really not one for me and seemingly not for a lot of others too. I couldn't stand a few of the ones that I bought and really didn't love any of them, they felt like a disappointment and a waste of money. Thanks for watching as always ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfumeI've never smelt VIW but every review I've seen has said Party in the Bay is similar, but is cheaper and has incredible sillage and longevity. I have no idea if Electric is like BR540 I'm afraid. I doubt it from what I've heard about BR540 but I've not tried that one either! 🤷♀️
It's weird to me that I think they are considered dupes, I can't imagine it 😂 I might have to search for party in the bay... 👀
Claire, I am fascinated by the subject of this video and I was wondering if u have the time...sometime.. to talk in a future video about the map of odors proposed by P. Jellinek. I read pretty much these days about it and I found it very interesting. He draw a map of odors based on their EFFECTS. He considered that there are 4 main types of odors: Erogenous vs. Antierogenous (refreshing) and Narcotic vs. Stimulating. This map was draw based by the impression the odors have on us (and I think also on animals). This is what I have understood from what I have learned. :)
I just read about a new study classifying fragrance notes so I will look into this too! Thanks for the information 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume very interesting.:) the one I told u is the first. 1951. from what I have read...I think the old studies are based on the role of the smell in nature, mostly sexual activity. That wasn t the smell ONLY role, but in perfumery I think they considered that important.
Aah ok, I will look into it. 🥰
Hello, Claire. I am reviewing my collection according to your explanations and I think that a very good example for amber florals is Joop Le bain. That is the best example I have for this category. A second example is Estee lauder Bronze Godess Eau Fraiche. The funny thing is that they smell quite different :)) they are in the same category (I think) but they are pretty different. I will continue reviwing my collection and come back if I find interesting facts :)
Yes! It's a strange way to think about things really. Very different smelling fragrances can be in the same category, you are right and I really think it would be difficult sometimes for two people to reach a consensus on where a particular fragrance belongs, it's very much a matter of opinion. Good luck 🥰
Can you do a video that walks you threw how to declutter your own perfumes. Like questions to ask yourself. ❤❤❤
I will add it to my list. Thank you for the suggestion ☺️
Great survey of this particular fragrance wheel. Ive seen others. Also, you mentioned Chypré and Fougeres in passing. I would have liked those two genres, in addition to the Citrus Aromatic, to be drawn out and discussed. Fougere is my favorite genre by far. I have tons of fougeres from the "barbershop"s to classic to hybrids. Im always policing the use of the term "fougere" on the Internet. Men are always misusing the label "fougere". A true fougere is characterized by a dominant lavender-coumarin accord. Identifying and describing the Chyore has always given me trouble. I know the textbook definition is citrus (usually bergamot) to, labdanum mid, oakmoss base. But so many fragrances outside that structure are called "chypre". Even Aventus is classified as a Fruity Chypre. Then I read an article that explained why Aventus is classified as a Chypre. It said its because of the CONTRAST between the citrus/fruity top and woody mid/base with the smoky birch. So it dawned on me that CONTRAST is what characterizes a Chypre. Now I can just kinda tell by smelling.
Yes absolutely! Chypre is really evolving, with patchouli sometimes instead of oakmoss! Modern chypres just seen to have that back of the throat dryness to their base. It's hard to explain but for me that's how I think of a chypre 😊 your idea of the contrast is probably a much better explanation 😂 thanks for watching 🥰
Gourmand fragrances are my favourites, they aren't (yet) in the wheel, at second place I love amber florals and at third place I love the amber-fruity ones. I found so beautiful how you pronounce Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant, your french accent (L'Elephant) is pretty and perfect😍
Well it's probably not spot on, but my husband is a French, German and Spanish teacher who also speaks a little Italian and Polish so I've got a good resource to tap there! I did learn French and Latin though. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume so many languages, you both intelligent people♥️♥️💖💙🎆🌻
Well I am nowhere near fluent, you are fluent in what? Three languages?! More?! That's so amazing!
@@dr.claire.perfume I am fluent in four: German, Italian, English and Portuguese
@@VeritasVincitFragrancesVeritas that is even more amazing as I assume that's not even your job per se, it's just something that you've had to do as part of life 👌
Hi Claire! It would be interesting to put all my fragrances on the wheel and just look at it. I know for sure I lean on the florals heavily. There are examples of others that I really enjoy with no florals. Super interesting. Great video. Ty 🙏💙✨
Hi Tina! Yes! That's exactly what I wanted to do with my own collection to just see how much variety there was there and whether my taste does gravitate to one particular section... It can be a very subjective process categorising fragrances though.
I hope you have a lovely Sunday and thank you for being here 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume always! Or almost always, lol. Have a good weekend!
It's so sunny and warm here! I've been loving the weather 😎
People weren’t trying to smell like cotton candy and marshmallows in 1942 😊
This is true! 🤣
They would have if they knew they COULD HAVE.
They WOULD have if they knew they COULD have.
I find the fragrance wheel to be a fantastic thing if you are to categorize your collection. I did not that the gourmand category was missing. I am mostly into gourmand, oriental, woody and resinous kind of perfumes. The fruity perfumes are a guilty pleasure, I guess. Each year I do buy Escada Magnetism! I think that if you are looking for a very fun and easy fruity perfume, this fragrance is a good chose. I do enjoy the perfumes Escada brings out each year. However, recently they have become rather expensive, so I will not buy any this year - except for Magnetism. Nice to watch someone putting on the scientific "glasses" when talking about perfumes. I really learned a lot - and I can use it in the future.
Thank you! Yes I love the fruity fun ones, I've seen a few people say they love Magnetism, I've not tried it, but that's the pink/ purple tall bottle yes?! Oh and I know those summer ones used to be a bit cheaper, it's a shame really because I bet they sell fewer as a result, but I guess everything went up in price over the last few years. Thanks for watching ❤️
Not unlike you I have favourite perfumes all over the place, and ut is difficult to stick to one category (there are also perfumes I dislike from almost each category). In general, I do find florals, especially soft florals very easy to wear. The opposite would be ambery and woody fragrances which tend to be very clear LOVE or HATE
As for gourmands, I really like them and I think that maybe they're not on the wheel (in addition to the reason you said) because these notes are usually lab-made, synthetic (you can use actual roses to create fragrance, but you can't do it with chocolate).
Thanks for another great video! ❤
Thanks ❤️ oh that's an interesting point, I hadn't thought that they are synthetics... Yes, maybe there should be a section for cashmeran and for ambroxan and alike too...
I agree, the bolder fragrances do tend to prompt a love or hate reaction more. Florals are more nuanced and take a bit longer to get a feel of what exactly you think to them other than general like.
Thanks for watching and I hope you have a fab Sunday 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume thanks, you too! 🥰🤗😘
👍
Such an interesting overview of the fragrance wheel from you. I agree that we should devise a new category for gourmand. What about whiskey, rum, honey and tobacco? Which category are they under? I love jasmine in floral category because the smell is so airy and transparent. It will give you a good sillage. For fresh category, Acqua Di Gio parfum is such an excellent example in combining citrus, herbaceous green, salty marine, woody, spice and aquatic element in one bottle. The only thing is the longevity for fresh category is not too long. By understanding the wheel i hope it will give me some foundation to understand about layering in the future. I wonder if each in the subcategory can be combined beautifully to make a certain accord. This is getting more interesting.
Yes those are somewhat missing aren't they? I would class those as gourmand too! And yes, a jasmine based around hedione is very light and airy 👍 I definitely think experimentation is the way to go with layering. For me, some combinations really work and others fall flat. I guess it might also be thinking about how much you spray of each one very carefully too! Thanks for watching 🥰
I just found your video. Such a great explanation. Do you decide what category the fragrance belongs by the base notes? Also when you are layering do I take a fragrance note in that perfume and pick a top or middle note that I like and mix it with a fragrance that has that note as the base note?
Thank you ❤️ I think a lot of these categories are determined by base notes to a degree as that is the overall impression you are left with, but not entirely, citrus and florals are rarely if ever going to be found as base notes.
I think with layering, I pick a fragrance to layer that is relatively simplistic, for example, Alien or vanilla 28 or similar. Then I choose with a fragrance with those notes but maybe not as prominent as I would like, for example I might want more jasmine or more vanilla and mix. I might also add those fragrances to particular fragrances that I think those notes would compliment or lift. I think my most successful layering is where I've layered fragrances with a few notes in common though! Hope that helps. ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thank you so much. Love how informative you are on this subject. Thank you for sharing.
No worries 😊
I have tried my first layering combination…. Room 1015 cherry punk and YSL black opium. What a delicious combination that lasts all day ! 🎉
That does sound stunning! 😍
It really is beautiful combo. (A much longer lasting and complex journey that the Black over Red) ❤❤❤
@@deniseplasse5126 I can imagine. Over Red was fine but it lacked a defined base, it just made me think of a cherry lollipop.
@@dr.claire.perfume it lacks longevity too. I am just dissapointed the season for cherry is about over. 😢
@@deniseplasse5126 yes! And ooh cherries are beautiful, my road is lined with cherry trees and here they are only just coming into blossom 🌸
What an interesting video😍
I had the original ysl opium as a little girl (got it as a gift😅 imagaine that🙈) so it is very nostalgic to me, but I can’t afford it now. Do you know of any scents that smell similar to it…? So Not the black opium (don’t like the black opium🙊) but the original ambery stuff 😍
I know Estée Lauder youth dew is often compared with Opium, but for me that is stronger (my stepmother wears it). I also know Cinnabar from Estée Lauder is compared with it too. But I didn't smell that. I know youth dew can be bought relatively cheaply but I'm not sure about the price of cinnabar. I hope that helps ☺️
@@dr.claire.perfume it helps, thank you very much🥰🤗
👍
I love all categories. My collection starts with fruity florals and it grows in every direction. Here is my selection for June, I wanted it to be oriental, bold and warm: Samsara, 34 boulevard Saint-Germain from Diptyque EDT and EDP, Fantosmia, The cobra and the canary, Obsession, L’air du désert marocain and Boucheron! Very different than my usual white florals!
And Squid from Zoologist!
Wow that's a very striking selection! I've been really enjoying trying lots of diptyque fragrances recently, I am trying to decide whether to get orphéon. I would absolutely love to try l'air du désert Marocain 😊 thanks for watching and sharing your current wears, it's interesting to hear what people are reaching for 🥰
I do love a floral
My collection is mainly floral, but I also gravitate towards "oriental" and citrus!
Plenty of variety there! It's clearly not always true that we tend to love one quadrant. Thanks for watching ❤️
Good morning sweetie ❤
Hey Frances ❤️
yet another amazing informative video! my favourite fragrances are always the heavy warm resinous amber and spicy 80's style powerhouses with thick syrupy sweet gourmands a close second. even better when they overlap like in my ride or die pre-loreal angel. my least favourite are definitely citrus and fresh/watery perfumes with an exception of womanity which i adore when its a stinking hot day and it might not be totally appropriate to knock the people around me for six with a huge dose of ysl opium or dior poison! but each to their own :) xxx
Thank you! ❤️ Haha 😂 oh I really loved Womanity when I first got my bottle, I think towards the end it had changed a bit but I didn't repurchase and trying the reformulation. I love Angel for winter and I think I'm beginning to appreciate the big 80s fragrances more these days than I once did. It's interesting to see how tastes change the more than you try!
I hope you have a fab weekend and thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume well i recently risked it all and bought a new formulation bottle of womanity knowing full well how loreal have decimated angel and alien but to my pleasant surprise its not half bad! perhaps not *quite* as strong as the original but thankfully it hasn’t suffered half as much as angel and alien at loreal’s hands 😊 xxx
Oh thank you for letting me know, I've not really heard how it is from anyone else who tried both formulations, so that's useful. I think L'Oréal will discontinue Womanity soon, the only place I ever see a bottle is on the Mugler website...
@@dr.claire.perfume absolutely that's why i risked buying another bottle because it randomly appeared back on their uk website after months of it being out of stock with discontinuation rumours. it's only sold in 80ml and 100ml refill bottles and like you said only available online. i wouldn't be surprised if they discontinue aura too whilst they're at it. angel muse has been discontinued which is a huge shame but i think i'd rather them discontinue fragrances over these god awful reformulations they keep doing xxx
Me too, I agree, the reformulations are in general just awful. Thankfully I have a huge bottle of Aura and I just bought a 15ml of Angel Muse EDP. I was really debating between that and the EDT though... 🤷♀️
Hello beautiful Claire here watching you on big screen.
Hey Pat 😊 thanks, hope you are having a great week. 🥰
i do tend towards one side of the wheel, but i think its mostly because my mother and sister tend to the fruity/floral/soft floral zone. and i didnt grow up with any other men in the house to contrast it with, so without realizing it, i must have subconsciously filed those categories as extremely feminine. my preferences (for myself) lean almost entirely on the opposite side. the closest i journey to that left side is water. the first fragrance i bought for myself was kenzo's l'eau pour homme when i was 13 (2005ish). and even that was almost a little too feminine for me.
when i bought my first batch of materials for making fragrances, i was just buying naturals that i know smells nice. i bought a fair amount of greens and florals, not realizing how low i have to keep their concentration in order to make sure they dont feel too feminine for me to wear. i definitely prefer spices and earthy stuff. vetiver is one of my favorites but i hear it can be an acquired taste. i loved it right away
Yes! Vetiver is definitely something people can struggle with. I like it mostly but sometimes it can be too much if it dominates.
I can understand wanting to be different from the smells around you for sure. I think that is an understandable reaction from those experiences. Green can be tricky I bet, too grassy or too dank and bitter, I bet it's a hard balance. 🥰
Good afternoon ❤
Hello 🥰
I have my pen and paper ready
🤣
Maybe they should make an additional fragrance wheel for the gourmands and whatever else doesn't fit the current wheel?
Or update the current wheel, but not sure where the gourmands etc would fit? Close to fruits, perhaps, without being part of 'fresh'?
But then again, I understand why fruits and florals are next to each other... hmmmm!
Yes fruity florals are definitely a thing! I'm not sure where I'd put gourmands... I feel like they should maybe go near spicy ambers, but it's not ideal or clear cut at all. I do think the wheel needs a rethink...
@@dr.claire.perfume Maybe you've planted the seed out there for a new wheel to be created!
I hope so 🤞
I probably lean most towards fresh and woodys, and the softer florals. I think I like many categories but I don't go for more ambery fragrances as I do struggle with the more resinous or vanillic notes
Yes, I think I have an idea of what you enjoy but I'm not sure I can always predict with the florals... I also think your taste has changed slightly away from the really super fresh ones more to florals of late. It's interesting to see what happens as you try more fragrances, we are all really influenced by each others' choices too! Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume definitely! Florals I really enjoy a wide range except probably really strong notes like lily, ylang ylang, rose. But I generally like tuberose, lilac, violet, orange blossom/neroli, heliotrope, mimosa, hawthorn, magnolia, narcissus, jasmine, iris, freesia, honeysuckle, sweet pea... haha that's enough I could probably go on!
Yes! Ethereal florals for you! Forest florals, hedgerow florals and pixie florals ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume aww I love that 🥰
I don’t consider the fragrance wheel at all. But I do tend to choose Orientals the most.
A lovely choice, I have many fragrances that fall in that category. Thanks for watching 🥰
For my childhood's sake, I bought Tabu by Dana. What would you categorize it as? I always thought as a child it was so strong.
I have never smelt it so I can't judge. I could look up the notes but that won't really allow me to accurately categorise it.
personaly I am agree that gourmand category are not the parfum science and I am not attractive to them they all reminds me of food extract for bakery use,
Yes I think quite a lot of people don't necessarily want to smell of food, but then also many do! 😂 It's a very popular category and more modern versions of the wheel do include gourmand I think 🤔 I like gourmand fragrances sometimes, but I think I am quite picky with them. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hi Claire 🌞💕🫶
Hello, hope you are having a lovely Saturday 🥰
Hello Claire. Here
Thanks for watching ❤️
@@dr.claire.perfume You're welcome. It was a pleasure
Have you tried Baiser Vole by Cartier? Thats a very powdery floral (the most powdery floral I've ever smelled) but there's only one note...Lily of the Valley.
Would that be floral, or soft floral.
I have tried it! It was a few years back in store. I remember it being a greener but full and realistic petally lily fragrance rather than LOTV. I would categorise it as floral as I don't remember it being powdery, but as I say, I haven't tried it extensively nor recently. 😊
Is Estee lauder's Pleasures a green perfume?
I think sometimes fragrances can be in more than one category, I don't own Pleasures, I've only tried it in store, so you are probably the better judge if you know this fragrance well. It's not about listed notes, it's about how it smells. If it's grassy to you with little florals then you should categorise it as green.
This fragrance wheel is a complex thing isn't it.
I'd say I like all the floral catagories. Probably most of my fragrances by a long way fall into these ones.
Well the O word... I may not have been alive during them times, however I and this country and most of Europe still reep the benefits of our ancestors crimes... So if the least I can do is to stop using an offensive term when there are many others works. Then of course I'm gonna. But yea I know some folks can't let go of one word 🙄. I do have many Ambers as well I think, I do love some spices and definitely musks. Piano Santal would be a good woody amber.
I think I have more woodies than I thought. Mossy woods is probably a catagory I have very few from. The dry woods... Gga yes that fits.
The Fresh ones. Well I don't have many aromatic ones at all. Citrus is again defo not a catagory I have many at all of.
Watery is a tricky one for me, I do have and enjoy fresh watery ones. Salty water... Just no
Green odly I do like the fresher ones, the not bitter or dark ones. That fig one is nice.
Fruity... Well I do enjoy quite a few of the darker fruits and stone fruits. They do bring a not of sunshine. Angel nova certainly is very... 🤣.
Gourmands, I don't have too many actually. Can be hit and miss I think for me.
I guess gourmand highlights the perfume industries very slow movement and it's inability to move with the times.
I guess an aroma chemical molecular catagory is needed too.
The wheel is most confusing, I'd say the majority of mine cross so many of them.
Great video as ever ❤️
Thank you for your help with this video, I appreciated a second person's opinion on some of these categories. It's very subjective to categorise fragrances in this way still...
I agree that the perfume industry seems to move with glacial speed. I don't understand why Oriental is still more common than ambers as a term... It's far less descriptive or useful to me apart from the other reasons to not use it. 🤷♀️
I agree about the aromachemicals. I was planning to make a video on the main ones and their uses, but I am not sure I know enough as yet... I need to find some good examples of each one.
And for sure, I would associate you with florals, woods and actually even a little touch of gourmands. 😊
Thanks for watching also! 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume yea they won't hurry up and catch up to the times. They are mainly owned by huge businesses bothered about cash aren't they. They'll change when it hits their pockets and not a moment sooner.
That will be an interesting video I look forward to it.
And I was merely an ear it was all your work
Yes, there were a few videos about how problematic the terminology was a few years ago, but I didn't see anyone mention it more recently, some big brands such as Dossier have recently changed the names that they choose for some of their fragrances though, so some brands are definitely conscious of it and doing something.
You are always an immense help with my video ideas and planning and I think I would never have made probably what are my most successful videos without inspiration or encouragement from you, so I am very, very grateful. 🙂
This was helpful but sad for me. The fresh, light florals don't agree with me, but I noticed the last notes smell good. I think cedarwood? Maybe I can find a perfume with that in the first or heart?
I think if you are having issues with some fragrances, you will have to assess them on case basis. In my experience, light florals are a category of fragrance that are not done well by cheaper and ever some designer brands, gourmand on the other hand is easier to do more cheaply, same with woody fragrances. I would stay away from amberwood (a trademarked synthetic) fragrances and things with oakmoss (again this is normally synthetic these days rather than oakmoss as pure oakmoss extract is banned or heavily restricted) as you might find those too metallic, e..g I don't think Chloe nomade would be one for you.
@@dr.claire.perfume Ahh, Ok. I took a photo of your message when I go perfume shopping to remember.....
Good luck 🤞 let me know if you find something you love 😘
It is useful, at least initially, to know as many ingredients and aromatic families as possible. At least for me, it was a guide to study more technically, those aromas that I liked and that led me to buy a perfume. I believe that for those who call themselves perfumery enthusiasts, it is essential to know and study the fragrance wheel.
Ordinary people say: "it smells good", "it's citrus", "it's sweet". Epithets like those are useful and correct up to a point. Making an analogy with poetry, where there is a large number of words and linguistic ornaments, in perfumery there is also an abundance of resources to make the olfactory experience richer in terms of definition and comparison of fragrances.
Today, perfumery has become quite an eclectic industry. New fragrances appear periodically and challenge the structure of the fragrance wheel. Houses like "Akro" and "Strangers Perfumerie" are some examples, where the combination of certain ingredients does not fit directly into any category, where the construction of the perfume goes in order to recreate a situation or thing, which can escape being placed in certain aromatic family and work from there to create a fragrance.
Finally, it is also interesting how tastes change over time and the olfactory experience. At first I only liked aromatic citrus fragrances, which were typecast within the typical Italian colognes that tried to portray the mediterranean with the use of herbs, light woods and abundant citrus. Nowadays, I like oriental fragrances, with the use of resins and woods like oud. I have quite dense fragrances that at first I did not think I would use.
Sooo... Has your taste in fragrances changed over time? Maybe a topic for new video.
Too much text. Bye.
I certainly agree that there are more recently formulated fragrances that don't seem to fit any category particularly well. Perfumery has moved on and the fragrance wheel hasn't even got to gourmands 🤷♀️
Yes for sure my taste has changed! I did make a video about it a year or so back but I might make another, thanks for the suggestion and for your interesting comment. 😊
You never mentioned the Oud ones
I guess oud could be in a number of categories in the woody category. Different ouds and oud accords could fit in a few sub categories. 🥰
Left and right channel are swapped, could you fix the audio? Or mirror the video
I'm afraid I can't alter a video that is already posted. I would have to reupload it and repost, but thank you for letting me know. Have a lovely weekend 🥰
Where can we find a fragrance wheel?
You can often find them on fragrance websites, so I found some on a few individual brand sites and also on bigger companies' websites like All Beauty in the UK. I think the fragrance wheel is also used as a tool to help sales assistants talk to customers about their fragrance tastes and help them to suggest new fragrances for them to try that they might enjoy.
@@dr.claire.perfume thanks!
No problem 😊
While I agree that the term Oriental is etymologically meaningless in terms of scent, so too is amber, unless we are talking about ambergris and its synthetic analogues. Colonialism is very much a part of perfume history, as the spice trade was a powerful motive in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. That said, I don't feel the least bit wicked for using the term oriental in reference to perfume, as I was not alive during the period, and because those who are offended by a word that was never offensive before the advent of cultural Marxism are themselves offensive to me.
Hi Michelle! Yes, I guess it's completely personal choice and Oriental is still widely used, but there is certainly a shift away from using that term, for example Olfactive O and Dossier I can think of immediately as examples. I guess it's such a small thing that it's not a problem to change and ultimately, amber does really cover the category more descriptively and quite well as it's a very diversely made accord.
I hope you are having a lovely Saturday and thanks for watching ❤️
Exactly my thought....
Such a weird thing to stand for . So happy for you to not feel the least bit wicked. I bet you call people gypsy and other slurs because hey that’s history. Oriental is an offensive term at this point . If you don’t believe offense can be taken , then you can’t claim whatever you think cultural Marxism is as offensive to you . If your white , and likely British , just stop using the term . I live amongst a large Asian population, perfume stores here haven’t used the term in decades .
@@baby.nay. I agree that anti-communism is a weird thing to 'stand for' yet to the extent that well meaning people in the west sit back and let the regressive left destroy our culture we will get what we deserve. The barbarians are already past the gates and are among us. Your demographics were a bit off: I am white, but I live in New York's Chinatown, and I will use any language I like.
@@baby.nay. Nope, I won't stop using the term. If you are offended by the term, YOU can stop using it. It SHOULD be perceived as a completely inoffensive term. Occidental is too. I like using Oriental for the genre because it is classic, and Shalimar is the name for a Taj Mahal garden. Taj Majal - the East - Oriental.
As a historiographer, let me just repeat the saying that those who choose to deny the past are doomed to repeat it. I'm here in the States, and we see sooooo much cancelation of our past currently, and I just shake my head.
The same with Imperialism. The Silk Road existed LONG before Imperialism. It was what drove Columbus to make his journey...but again, he's being canceled himself.
At any rate..."of the East" is where most spices originated from, so I think Oriental applies.
I don't think changing the language we use is necessarily cancelling the past. It's just showing that Oriental doesn't reflect how the perfume smells (like citrus, green, floral, amber, woods do) and is also potentially offensive to some people e.g. Yve spider smells has made a few good videos or snippets about colonialism in the fragrance industry. Clearly Oriental is still widely used though, although I noticed that Dossier and also Olfactive O have changed the names of their fragrances to remove this term. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Well...I myself call most of those ingredients as "spices/spicy" AND it is my favorite element personally in a fragrance...and yet the wheel doesn't have that category...and expects "woody" to suffice...at least, that's where most people place spices.
Indian food is my FAVORITE food, and a well-blended "masala" is heaven to me. It's not so far off from my fragrance preferences, either...but I do enjoy some fruits, florals, resins, and actual woods, like sandalwood and dry cedar...along with coffee, chocolate, and vanilla all in the mix.
Yes me too, Indian or probably more often in the UK in reality, Pakistani food, is my favourite choice for a meal out. Balti for me! It's rare, but finding a South Indian restaurant (with more coconut, fruits and fish) is also a special treat, most restaurants are North Indian or Pakistani style food here. I guess it reflects more frequent immigration from those regions, especially Mirpur around where I live.
very upsetting chart, extremely inaccurate at the raw chemical level, without even going into the realm of psychological interpretation
I would absolutely love to see a version of this based on actual fragrance ingredients! I know the same component can be used in many different profiles so it wouldn't be hard to simplify and probably in many dimensions, but I'd love to see a video on it 😊 thanks for watching 🥰
Good video. Thank you. Would not you put pleasures by Estee Lauder into the green category??
I think sometimes fragrances can be in more than one category, I don't own Pleasures, I've only tried it in store, so you are probably the better judge if you know this fragrance well. It's not about listed notes, it's about how it smells. If it's grassy to you with little florals then you should categorise it as green.