ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
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Another solid and great video filled with authentic advice, No smoke or mirrors. Thanks Sam for the technical advice on evaporation curves❤
Great tips and particularly agree about not getting mid notes right. I struggle with this too and for the same reasons - my favoured mid notes tend to lean towards expensive absolutes or aroma chemicals/bases I can't afford to waste. If I recreate them with accords, this extra melange of materials can send a formulation off balance, or it ends up like a soup. It's tricky! Simpler is often sweeter.
Agree. Experience and time are the key factors to have a balanced perfume. I'm at a stage when I don't even know what is missing on my formula to make it better 😢 even tho people say it smells good.... thanks for the video ! Cheers !
Would you please tell me the formulation or primixture for perfume making. In ethanol what we can include?
My skin doesn’t hold perfume particularly well so I’ve started applying it under my shirt on freshly moisturised skin. I’ll also apply weaker fragrances to the wings of my collar for added longevity. I never rub. I know the weather conditions and what I’m doing are also factors. It’s so hard to get right, and there’s nothing worse than walking past someone drenched in cologne.
Thanks a lot, Sam! I had a similar revelation, when I added some hedione and increased timbersilk to my newest saffron/leather composition, that just wouldn´t leave my skin. It is just so much joy to experience these effects :)
That sounds like a nice combination!
@@sammacer where cai get best materials ... am from dubai
@@dikicksonline3155 Perfumersworld
😂😂 they said "perfumersworld"
Make a video on silage
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, there are so few people putting this information out there on TH-cam
No problem, and thank you :)
I like using florol/florosa in the mids. Good floralizer that doesn’t really change the characteristics of the fragrance too much
Me too!
The only thing that will improve projection is when fragrance companies start manufacturing with quality again, like in the days of vintage fragrances. Other than that forget it.
Can you explain that a little
you know whats the best in you?its not just the knowledge but how you appreciate your viewers with your response,i love you man,may Godbless you and your family,happy new year!
Thank you, you have a great new year too!
30% 50% 20% always works for me certain notes like cinnamon and clove really boost performance
30 for top note or base ?
Coumarin gives lift to the top notes. Benzyl Salicylate helps to increase Sillage.
I haven't used them so much but for sure I should
Regarding diffusivity, I believe, that expansive 'amber like' raw materials, for example Timberol and Norlimbanol could also work. What do you think, Sam?
You are such a great teacher for me. Every night i see your videos and learn so much information. Please find the strength to do as much as you can because you are gifted.thanks again and if and when you can do a short video about the list of allergens listed on the back of a perfume and why they are so highly used in all the perfumes almost the same aromachemichals . Years before i thought that those were the main ingredients of a perfume composition but probably they are the 1/10 of the whole composition. Im talking about linalool coumarin limonene, citral,hydroxycitronellal eugenol, iso eugenol etc ...
Thanl you! I’m glad you’re getting value out of the videos. With the allergens, in fact, the levels are probably much lower then you think. They legally have to be labeled when above 0.001%. Since they are usually found at low amounts in naturals, that’s usually enough to go over 0.001%
@@sammacer omg i thought allergens were used in huge amount and actually i admit i used them too greatly as part of the whole composition as they are important too
Thanks again dear sam i will be more careful.
Hello Sam. I'm really learning with your video. I'm a apprentice perfumisty here in Brazil. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you, glad it’s helping!
You can use high impact materials that last over 300 hrs on a test strip. Or dilute those materiels nd use in trace amounts in your accords. Like diffusive musks and woods. I use paradisamide to bring the pineapple smell right down into the base and it is very very diffusive and a high impact material with longevity. As well as Allyl cyclohexal propionate. Which is around 350 hours on a test strip and is a top note and also very diffusive and needs to be diluted anyway. This is one example of having the pineapple scent right through to the base
Some nice ideas right there
Wyomingpark this is very useful information. I’m very interested in trying Allyl Cyclohexyl Propionate. How does this compare to Paradisamide in terms of diffusivity? Also, how much do you recommend adding to a composition?
@@markdistefano2712 It depends what you are trying to achieve. Allyl cyclohexyl propionate has a very high odour impact. Very strong just in the head space alone. So it's usually a good idea to dilute it to at least 20% paradisamide is also a high odour impact material. Both materials can overtake and ruin a formula if you're not careful when dosing. The best thing to do is diluting both materials at various percentages right down to 0.01 percent. Adding them to your sketch and see what impact it has with your other oils and if you achieve your desired outcome. If for example you would like to smell pineapple nuances in your drydown, then using Paradisamide, and ACP amongst other pineapple materials such as Galbex, with a diffusive musk, will certainly work. Adding fixatives and blenders like Iso E Super also lends power to silage and longevity. And the almighty ambroxan for projection of course. But it all comes down to many trials and correct dosing. There is no real formula for projection. It just depends on the molecular marriage and harmony of the materials you use. The BEST way of achieving this, is to know EVERY material initmately. Really study each one, to the point that you will be able to guess off the top of your head what to include in your formula and at what percentage to achieve the desired outcome. Alot of trial and alot of error. Best of luck. 😊
Can you start a series where you take perfumes and do a breakdown of their notes? Like perhaps something popular like Maison Margiela fragrances for the replica line? Like what the synthetics for those would be? Thank you again!
That sounds cool, although it would be pretty difficult to do well since it would be guessing after all
Can you please make a video on making floral absolutes. It would really be awesome and hopefully the knowledge will be beneficial to those who have less access to materials or want to make something unique.
Same here man.
I like the idea - I've never done it though and it's pretty involved. Maybe one day but for sure not any time soon, sorry.
Great video. Do you have to dilute these materials before adding or lets say your total perfume concentration is 100ml, then we add 1ml each.......
Hi Sam, video is very insightful.
I would request you can you make a video on Matching of fragrances or perfumes.
Thanks - I do plan to at some point :)
Thank you very much! Wonderfully useful information as always. Quick question: What percentage dilution of hedione would you suggest to push those mid notes, and roughly how much in the formulation would you add? (I'm trying to get some more diffusion and longevity out of linden blossom.)
No worries. Hedione is an interesting one because although it's widely used up to high percentages, it does change the character of your perfume in a way that is often but not always what you're looking for. If hedione improves your perfume, then feel free to add as much as you want - I've heard of some people using it as high as 50% (relative) in the formula. Don't be afraid to use small amounts either though as they can still have a surprisingly strong effect on the perfume. The last thing I would say is that hedione alone will not fix a bad composition, though it can be used as part of a suite of changes.
Great tips!
Speaking of perfume concentrations, what to do about materials that tend to be very sticky even at 10% dilution? I've noticed that e.g. labdanum, pine and fir leave a very sticky residue.
I've found diluting these ingredients with an eco solvent like Augeo Clean Multi really helps to break them down so they are very liquid and not sticky.
Very professional and appealing content Sam. I just wonder one thing. Living in a hot and humid environment, what type of molecule do you suggest me to use to make fresh fragrances like (Mont Blanc Explorer, Ysl Y etc.) to peform the best? Ambroxan based one(s), perhaps ? Thanks for your guidance.
In general fragrances either perform or they don’t - adding a single molecule won’t change that in general but just add that smell on top
Thank you Sam, greatly appreciated!
No problem!
Cedramber is also a good material to balance perfume.
I haven't had much success with it but I've heard good things...
Very interesting! I'm curious about how people know about projection and longevity of fragrances they use. Specially if after applying on ourselves we kind of lose part of the perception of it.
Also, how to know if/when to re-apply fragrances? I got into making 10ml decants of lighter fragrances I use so I can re-apply. I often bring them with me and re-apply a couple sprays after 5 hours or so of the first use of it. I never know if it is necessary/good or not. Is there any recommendation for me?
The short answer is you can’t know! This is because of the olfactory fatigue effect as you quite rightly point out. The best thing you can do is ask someone else to wear it or spray it on some fabric in a room and come back periodically to get an idea for the longevity. Re applying once every 5 hours sounds about right to me though!
Great info Sam, Thank You
No problem!
hello sam, thank you for what you've been shared to us. i'm makin my own perfumes too. it's kinda depressing when my perfumes had a bad projection and sillage. does fixative really ruin the entire process? i've been using fixative to the alcohol. in indonesia, finding raw materials like hedione was a super rare thing.
Yes I'm sorry to hear that but in general fixatives and projecting materials are opposite due to basic chemistry. All I can recommend is to find a way to source regular raw materials if you can
Thank you! I'm new to making chemicals and I don't have the money to go to like a perfumery school. So I wanted to ask do you have any videos about how to use absolutes? I can't find any basic videos on this!
You use absolutes like any other raw material :)
Could u make tutorial and use all this ingredient u talking about on lives tutorial
Thanks Sam very informative
Thanks!
You are a sauvage! I'm always so glad and grateful to follow your channels and access your expertise...
Wich is the logic behind the projection? Thinking on the organic function of the molecules, and electromagnetism...?
Try to use Damascone But be carful ifra is restricted
Perfect video
what I like to do isadding a small amount of ethyl maltol and beta ionone super to a perfume you get more projection
Hi Sam 👋 I just came across your channel. I'm not a perfume student (but I do Love fragrances and smelling good). This might be a daft question to pose, but if I want to make one of my perfumes project more, would the EDT be better then an EDP since it would have a higher alcohol level thus higher volatility?
In that vein, is there any tips you may have on how to make perfumes project more or last longer on skin?
Just subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos!
Thanks! Often, longevity and projection are opposites, but skilfully made perfumes contain both. In general there’s not so much you can do to increase these other than buying a perfume that performs well in the first place!
@@sammacer hi 👋 so just to clarify, in general would an EDT project better than an EDP? (Assuming that they were both the same formulation & the only difference being the ratio of concentration:alcohol) or would the EDP project better?
Thanks for those tips👍🏻
I agree in that a balanced formula and using those specialized ingredients help with projection. Also I have found that using ingredients which start off as powders like vanillin greatly help with projection and sillage. Thanks Sam
Interesting that you say that - I find that often solids act as fixatives and reduce projection
Suggest me cheapest chemical to increase tenacity and fragrance lasting above 6 hrs. I tried Jasmine e.o with galaxolide and perf alcohol, but fragrance gone in 5 mins
@@selvibarani4736 galaxolide will last a very long time. You might be diluting it too much 10-50% is good.
@@rickscars7395Thanks 🙏 dear. Iff selling Galaxolide is 50%, I think. Instead Galaxolide if I use ISO e super or hedione what will be result.
@@selvibarani4736 hedione and iso e super will give you more projection/diffusion unfortunately not longevity. To get longevity is a very fine balance between fixatives, blenders, and diffusers. It is a hard balance to achieve that requires a lot of trial and error. There is no one chemical that will do what you want. You can get longevity with fixatives but the scent will be a close to skin scent.
You mentiont Geosmin. But that it would make your perfume smell like soil. Would microdosing it, maybe help to increase projection, without interfering with the other notes?
What all perfumes would u prefer with all these molecules for beast projection ?
😊 Thanks that helps a lot..
Hey sir i am from India please can u suggest me a fixative which makes my all perfumes project good
I am just starting out in fragrance and have started with a vanilla smell, so it's safe and easy to work with however I just can not get it to project, using iso e super, natural vanilla, ethal van and vanillin just barely smell it. Is there something I can do to or recommend a book to help me in my journey
Thank you indeed
No problem :)
Where I can find or buy those Raw Materials pls.
Is galaxolide a diffusive material?
Hey thanks for the great advice, question... How long should i let my perfumes sit after making a final product?
It’s up to you really 😊
Does layering a perfume on the skin with a similar perfume oil &/or moisturiser actually help with this, or is that really just a marketing ploy?
Along the same vein, spraying perfume over eg Vaseline on the skin, would possibly help with longevity but hinder projection right?
Love all your content btw 😃👍👍
Well adding more perfume might make it last a little longer, moisturiser I don’t know, and by putting something to stop it evaporating; then yes I will decrease projection
If you know any chemical material that makes perfume redolent or anyone can smell it from far away. Most of fragrance oils in Egypt are not redolent or Concentration or in high quality. I want make any perfume in high quality or aromatic.anyone can smell it from far away. like original factories. Please help
Projection in my perfume sucks because I only like the smell of base notes lol mid nose are always headachy for me
Make video on silage please
Great video thank you.
What about maceration of a perfume? I’ve had perfumes that when I first spray the smell ok or subtle but in a few months they seem deeper and stronger. May it be that the top notes have been lost and the base notes and mid notes appear more since the opening?
That happens to me too
How much Jasmine Absolute would I add to a 3ml bottle of Sandalwood Attar to provide a more floral aspect, while still maintaining a masculine vibe?
No one will be able to help you on something as specific as that! The thing to do is trial different ratios until you find the one you like
Thanks for the tips Sam! But I have a question can I make perfume with essential oils? If so would it change anything? And what is the difference between essential oil and perfume bases (sorry stupid question) Thank you so much!
Yes, of course. Essential Oils are a subcategory of natural raw materials. They are often used in perfumery alongside synthetic raw materials.
@@sammacer thanks!
So a fragrance like PDM'S Herod which is a tobacco and vanilla heavy fragrance but now has poor projection and longevity since its been reformulated. Would it be safe to say Ambroxan would the best choice to improve this type of composition?
Unfortunately it’s never so simple as adding something; it’s likely they already tried it. It’s a question of taste too. The only way to find out for sure is test it and see what you think.
How tak mix several raw materials?more than 5 raw materials,the good proposion, ratio of every single raw material..
These are all great.
Thanks!
Im about to make oil based perfume, just wanna ask what kind of carriel oil u can suggest, my fragrance oil is floral ylang ylang
Paraffin oil use kro bhai.. love from Pakistan
Thanks 🌹
No problem
Would anything happen if I mixed fragrance oils and essential oils together would it be alright to use as fragrance oils alone smells nice people can smell it from a meter away but I can’t seem to get the projection on my perfume so I’m thinking to mix both together
My recommendation is to not use fragrance oils in the first place. You can blend natural and synthetic raw materials together.
Why edp and edt version of same perfume doesn't have same notes?
Example dior sauvage edp and edt
There are lot difference in both edp and edt
Why they can't increase just only concentration?
Why they change notes?
Well not all of the components will scale linearly perceptually with respect to concentration so really the whole composition is going to need to be rebalanced for different concentrations
Hmm, very interesting. High longevity, low projection is actually my favorite. I want a very close skin scent so someone has to be very close to me to smell it. I am in the minority though. Shame. It's a very seductive way to wear scent.
My soon to be released perfume is a bit like this so good to know that some people will be into it :)
What would you recommend for beard oil? Improving the projection of sandalwood.
Adding more of it?
@@sammacer if only it were not so expensive
Have you tried Tonka bean and Cetalox ?
Thanks for the tips!! ;)
It seems to me that some materials also cancel each others and kills the projection...
Your welcome. Yes I agree heavy materials can weigh down some lighter ones.
No problem :) Yes I have noticed that cancelling out effect too from time to time
I'm new to this and just wondering - is there a list somewhere of what's considered top, middle, bottom note?
Not that I know of
@@sammacer Thank you for the reply!
It seems as powder aroma chemicals drown out the rest of my oil aroma chemicals, are the powders that much stronger?
Nope, they aren’t in particular, it must have been a coincidence!
Well I am not a perfumer but I love fragrance that can make you noticeable whole day among the crowd. I love fragrance with great projection. Can you suggest some perfumes in budget range that are great in projection and gives good projection for long hours.I stay in India and the weather is little humid. Suggest me some fragrance that can perform awesome in india climate indoors as well as outdoor.
Unfortunately I actually don't know much about the fragrances on the market, I just like to make my own. There are lot's of perfume review channels however which may be able to help you out!
Any Suggestions for winter and summer
Afnan turathi blue
how much of the Geranyl Acetate and Hydroxycitronella would you have to add for it to have a good effect? if were doing lets say 25% oil with 75% perfumers alcohol for a 10ml as example, would we jsut add a drop or 2 of each or would it be substantially more, or id need to just experiment to figure that out myself?
You would have to experiment
You would have to experiment
Now that I know where to apply, my biggest dilemma is How to spray and at what distance?! At what spray distance do you use When spraying on skin? Does spray distance influence projection of fragrance?
I would imagine the further to spray, the better the initial impact but worse the longevity - that’s just a guess though…
@@sammacer I usually spray from 4 - 6 inches
much thanks
No problem
Hey Sam. I know that fixative can help reduce the evaporation rate of a perfume, hence they decrease performance. I know Hedione, for example, can help to increase that evaporation rate, but it decreases performance.
Could you make a video showing how you would create a high performance, high projection Eau de Parfum? (Because I know that increasing alcohol percentage in a perfume can make it project better.)
Hey Jay. Maybe I explained it badly in this video - really the info in this video should apply to what you're asking. What I failed to explain was that these long lasting 'diffusive' materials add performance without increasing the evaporation rate - diffusive mid-base note materials like hedione last a long time AND project well. This means as long as you have a good balance around this (not too many fixatives, not too many top notes) you should get a high performance, high projection eau de parfum like you ask
@@sammacer Thanks. Could you please reply with a list of high odor strength, neutral odor profile materials with great longevity and projection? (Example: Amber Xtreme)
@@JayMannStuff I don't have amber extreme but the main ones I would say are those which I already mentioned. I don't think anything really gets much more neutral than hedione... Often I find myself looking for something neutral when the composition is bad and I'm trying to boost it but the reality is the composition is wrong in the first place and it's pretty impossible to fix.
Can I apply these methods even with inspired designer fragrance oil?
Yes you can 3 years experience here of perfume so your answer is yes
@@dex-gy9qoi am making 212 and d'issey issye miake (white .. iconic) clones with perfume oil . I am facing problem with projections. Longagivity is best but no projections at all..
20% oil
2% galaxolide (using in both pils)
78% ethanol (seller tells it has 90% pure but iam not sure)
Please give me suggestions iam really into it and not findjng any sokution. Love from Pakistan
Can you advice me,
How to make perfumes if i have readymade essential oil, alcohol, fixative, distilled water, dpg
How mixture 30%concentration
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Add 3 grams of essential oil to 7 grams of alcohol. Don't add the other ingredients
@@sammacer Hello Sam what is an idea to not add the other ones like water or dpg?
Hi sam, Does more OIL in the perfume mean it projects more? Ive had conflicting information about this on the internet. And does the alcohol volume affect the projection and longevity
No
Hi sam,can I put a bit of ambroxan i my dior savage edt if so in what form. I have 2022 batch and its really weak People arround me after one hour cannot smell it
Well, if you add ambroxan to it, it’s simply going to add the smell of ambroxan…
@@sammacer do i use ambroxan in oil form or 10 percent dilution
so lets say im making a 50ml woody perfume, how much ISO E Super should i add to get a good projection?
You should experiment with it
@@sammacer okayy but can you still guide from where should I start? like add 2 ml of iso then add or subtract.
Waleed i am making 212 and d'issey issye miake (white .. iconic) clones with perfume oil . I am facing problem with projections. Longagivity is best but no projections at all..
20% oil
2% galaxolide (using in both pils)
78% ethanol (seller tells it has 90% pure but iam not sure)
Please give me suggestions iam really into it and not findjng any sokution. Karachi
I'm new in oil perfumery
I want to mix banana, lavender and vanilla.. I'm making upto 200ml
Please, what should be my percentage apportioning for my propylene glycol, my methanol, carrier oil and my essential oils 🥺
You should never use methanol in perfume, it’s very toxic
Okay, noted...thank you so much 🌹❣️
If there is translation to Arabic
Yea on auto captions
FIXATIVES!!!!
You are awesome, from Thailand.
Thank you
👌👌👌👌👌
its not SILLAGE but French Word (SI HA YAAJ).
Can you do this with your shirt off ? Asking for a friend
😂😂😂
I like this guy a lot, but the hand gestures are really distracting and ott
Please don't increase "silage" lol That would smell sooo bad. Just joking, but it's pronounced see-age, with the age part being pronounced the same way that it would be in the American pronunciation of garage. Great video, full of useful info. Subbed.
Haha. Thank you for the pronunciation tips
Don't be a sissy sprayer
Bro, I was looking for a quick hack, not a science lesson 😒
Haha well if there was a quick hack I would have given it to you and the industry would have already used it, anyone who claims there is is just click bait
Unhelpful video speaking of choosing notes smelling were all been in one circle and that will be 3 to 4 notes that it is high smelling like oud tobaco every thing contains that will be high projection and longevity also customer always smelling not reding not hearing i can convince a customer by smelling perfume just by smelling and then hates me becuase i give him the shittest long and projection point being is if we take what you speaking of we will be all perfumers that dosent buy anything I recommend before buying any fragrance search name and see reviews period
This is not for you. It’s for people that are creating a perfume at home! Damn
@sammacer i am making 212 and d'issey issye miake (white .. iconic) clones with perfume oil . I am facing problem with projections. Longagivity is best but no projections at all..
20% oil
2% galaxolide (using in both pils)
78% ethanol (seller tells it has 90% pure but iam not sure)
Please give me suggestions iam really into it and not findjng any sokution. Love from Pakistan
Make video on silage please