The joys of buying an old 4runner and being able to fix anything as long as you have your 10mm and 12mm stuff handy. Thanks for the help getting mine up and running right again.
10:24 I believe the primary reason it is recommended not to use a previously opened bottle of brake fluid is: the fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs humidity out of the air. That's a particularly bad thing to happen in a hydraulic braking system, since heat from the pads can boil that water, causing brake fading. The above is probably less of a concern with the hydraulics for a clutch pedal. But in that case, your comments about dirt certainly apply. (And water certainly is a "contaminant" in this context.)
This should be at the top of the videos listed, bc you did a great job! No bs, no taking forever, throughly enjoyed. Bout to replace mine on my 96 4runner with 215k. What brand did you end up going with?
Thanks, brother. I really appreciate it. I went with the duralast with the limited lifetime warranty. Hardest part of the job was bleeding, the actual job is easy. Be sure to get a self bleeder or have someone to help and it'll be a breeze.
Just replaced mine thought it was master and put slave in and couldn’t bleed out turned out the new master was bad right out of box! Put old one in works good!
Thanks, Sean. It's great to hear my video helped. My channel is still fairly small, so TH-cam doesn't always put my videos at the top of searches. I'm sure views will increase as I get more subscribers and the channel grows. If you have anything else you want to see a diy on, let me know.
If so, it's a pretty easy fix. If you can get in there with a flashlight and pull the boot back a little it's pretty easy to determine if it's leaking. Easy job to do. Much easier with 2 people for the bleeding steps
@@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh no. If you can have someone press the clutch in while you are under the car there is a piston the should press a plate forward at the front of the slave cylinder. My suggestion is the following: 1. Ensure there is enough fluid in the reservoir, if not add brake fluid to the recommended level 2. If the fluid was low, have someone press and release the clutch while you follow the line between the clutch master and clutch slave cyclinder looking for any leaks. 3. Once fluid level is verified and there are no leaks in the lines, get a light on the slave cylinder and watch the piston at the front of the slave cylinder as someone presses the clutch in. If it moves the plate forward and back, the slave cylinder is not the issue. If all of the above checks out then you may have a failed clutch or throw out bearing. What symptoms are you seeing?
@@WrenchingwithWoody when I pump my clutch pedal 5-6 times the pedal just doesn't really want to come back up after and when i bring it back up with my hand it resets and I can pump it few more times.
@@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh yeah, follow the steps from my last reply. Watch the travel distance on the slave. If it isn't fully retracting there is a chance that either the slave is getting stuck(failing slave or master) or the clutch isn't providing enough pressure to reset the slave(bad clutch and/or throw out bearing). You can try replacing the slave cylinder, but there is no guarantee it will fix the problem if the throw out bearing/clutch is failing. I've personally never seen a slave fail without some external leakage, but I am not a professional mechanic.
Nice video. Helped me replace my 330,000 mile factory slave cylinder on my 96' 😂. Friggin toyotas go forever.
Heck yeah! The older 4 runners were tanks. Glad the video helped and thanks for the comment!
The joys of buying an old 4runner and being able to fix anything as long as you have your 10mm and 12mm stuff handy. Thanks for the help getting mine up and running right again.
Haha, absolutely. Thanks for the feedback. They are definitely amazing vehicles and it's pretty easy to work on most things, even without a jack/lift.
10:24 I believe the primary reason it is recommended not to use a previously opened bottle of brake fluid is: the fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs humidity out of the air. That's a particularly bad thing to happen in a hydraulic braking system, since heat from the pads can boil that water, causing brake fading.
The above is probably less of a concern with the hydraulics for a clutch pedal. But in that case, your comments about dirt certainly apply. (And water certainly is a "contaminant" in this context.)
This should be at the top of the videos listed, bc you did a great job! No bs, no taking forever, throughly enjoyed. Bout to replace mine on my 96 4runner with 215k. What brand did you end up going with?
Thanks, brother. I really appreciate it. I went with the duralast with the limited lifetime warranty. Hardest part of the job was bleeding, the actual job is easy. Be sure to get a self bleeder or have someone to help and it'll be a breeze.
Nobody has a manual. But I ageee. LOL
I absolutely love TH-cam videos that have music blaring louder than the fucking person talks, in between said person speaking. 🙄
Just replaced mine thought it was master and put slave in and couldn’t bleed out turned out the new master was bad right out of box! Put old one in works good!
Really surprised this doesn't have more views. This helped me greatly replacing my slave cylinder on my 00 supercharged sr5. Thanks!
Thanks, Sean. It's great to hear my video helped. My channel is still fairly small, so TH-cam doesn't always put my videos at the top of searches. I'm sure views will increase as I get more subscribers and the channel grows. If you have anything else you want to see a diy on, let me know.
Great video, thanks man.
Thanks for the feedback, Gaige. I really appreciate it!
I think I have the very same problem.
If so, it's a pretty easy fix. If you can get in there with a flashlight and pull the boot back a little it's pretty easy to determine if it's leaking. Easy job to do. Much easier with 2 people for the bleeding steps
@@WrenchingwithWoody I pulled the boot back today but nothing leaked out. Could the slave cylinder leak internally?
@@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh no. If you can have someone press the clutch in while you are under the car there is a piston the should press a plate forward at the front of the slave cylinder. My suggestion is the following:
1. Ensure there is enough fluid in the reservoir, if not add brake fluid to the recommended level
2. If the fluid was low, have someone press and release the clutch while you follow the line between the clutch master and clutch slave cyclinder looking for any leaks.
3. Once fluid level is verified and there are no leaks in the lines, get a light on the slave cylinder and watch the piston at the front of the slave cylinder as someone presses the clutch in. If it moves the plate forward and back, the slave cylinder is not the issue.
If all of the above checks out then you may have a failed clutch or throw out bearing. What symptoms are you seeing?
@@WrenchingwithWoody when I pump my clutch pedal 5-6 times the pedal just doesn't really want to come back up after and when i bring it back up with my hand it resets and I can pump it few more times.
@@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh yeah, follow the steps from my last reply. Watch the travel distance on the slave. If it isn't fully retracting there is a chance that either the slave is getting stuck(failing slave or master) or the clutch isn't providing enough pressure to reset the slave(bad clutch and/or throw out bearing). You can try replacing the slave cylinder, but there is no guarantee it will fix the problem if the throw out bearing/clutch is failing. I've personally never seen a slave fail without some external leakage, but I am not a professional mechanic.
Thank you for all this info.
Great video, thank you.
Where did you use the 11mm flair nut wrench?
Probably the aftermarket slave cylinder, just did mine and it was an 11mm O’Rileys brand.
Thank you for the tutorial . Made me troubleshoot my problems and fixe my 4runner!! Love these little trucks.