I saw this video while trying to repair a 5-4993 Walbro. The last thing I wanted to do is to replace the seat...… but it was still failing after doing all the other tasks. I had to replace the seat...…. Your idea of tapping the insert is BRILLIANT. I am in the UK and I threaded it with metric tap. It worked PERFECTLY. I didn't grind a socket, I simply used a length of steel tube. Surprisingly, the OUTSIDE of the seat had corroded (electrolytically?) and was allowing fuel to bypass the needle valve and seat. Another surprise! I assume that water had entered the carb and been allowed to stand. Anyway, thanks again...… that saved me a HUGE amount of shouting as swearing!
Thanks Dony always showing the best techniques to make the job easier. great job, cant wait for more videos on snowblowers and lawnmowers and string trimmers again thanks for all your great advice. keep them coming.
thank you very much for going to the trouble to post this excellent video. this has sorted my issue with a flooding Murray.local repair shop just wanted to put a new carb into it. its an old mower and i didn't want to spend a small fortune fixing it.
Hey man! I just want to thank you do being so helpful. In my 8 years of working on these engines, I am now almost 15. I started when my uncle gave me a Briggs & Stratton 5hp Fun Power on a go kart from. Great engine, didn't want to mess it up, so I learned the majority of my knowledge on a little 3hp updraft carb engine. I loved that little engine, and I cranked it over, took it apart, put it back together, everything. I would take rides with my dad on the gokart now and then. I started driving about age 7 and a half. Great times. My dad taught me various things with that little 3 horse, like pulling the valves in and out, lapping, working on the carb, and other things. once I was experienced, I took down the engine to prepare myself for what I should expect in an engine. I noted all of the parts and figured it out. I sadly had to trash it because we were moving into a smaller home. I was able to keep some engines, thankfully. That was an older 4.0 Quantum and a 3.5. I have now a 5hp Fun Power, a '70 2.5hp Golden Boy engine on an edger, a restored '60s 2hp, a restored '54 Briggs Model 5S, a '94 horizontal 3.5hp, a '00 5hp lawn mower engine that I'm rebuilding, and a few others, including 2 cycles. Thank you for your help. You have been a source for about 80% of my knowledge on these engines, no joke. I can not thank you enough. By the way, on a small 3.5hp horizontal shaft with a pulsa jet carb, how would I pop out the welch plug on the front of the carb. Thank you Don
Blew my mind dernit that little jig you made. 👍👍Makes me happy to see ppl who not only use knowledge but give as well. Excellent video. Thank you sir. I will probably use this info many times over.
Don, thanks! I had a B&S 17 hp ohv engine crank case fill up with fuel and managed to stop what I was doing to check the oil, finding it full of fuel like you show. Got the carb off and was trying to figure out how to get that solenoid off with the tools I have. Thanks for showing. By the way, there is another vid online regarding how the solenoid can fail also, causing the same results with the B&S engine! I want to thank you for saving me tons of money, too, I just retired and am on fixed income that does not budget for this kind of problem (engine ruining!!!). I wish you well, sir!
A faulty anti backfire solenoid will not cause the engine to flood with gas. It can how ever cause the engine not to run or cause a backfire as the plunger isn't fast enough to stop the fuel flow.
I wouldn't have had a clue how to do this before watching this video. After watching this, I could do this myself. The clever tricks of grinding down the 1/2" wrench , and the socket , are tricks of the trade that you have learned and are sharing. The quality of your videos and your teaching skills are excellent. Thank you Sir!
At the back of the carb between motor and carb there is a track effect. The gas is leaking from there when I put it back together? Is that because the needle and seat isn’t working ?
Nice demo. I repectfully add that although its more common with copper floats. its always a good idea to give the float a shake to ensure no fuel is in it. I just installed the needle valve only in mine and its still flooding so its coming apart again to see what happened
check the float setting you may have it set too high so it want stop fuel flow as the fuel fills the bowl it should stop the fuel incoming with that little rubber tip needle if thats not happening it will flood
Once again you have helped me with your video. Thankyou so much for posting these! Salesman told me replacing the needle and seat probably would'nt fix the problem. Mower now runs better than ever! Thanks again!
I watched a video last night where a guy pulled a needle valve seat, but your way is much, much better. Tapping for a ¼" bolt is way more precise and makes sure the seat comes straight up. His was pulled at an angle. I'll find an old ⅜" socket and thin it out on my bench grinder. He did compare the depth to the exposed darker mark on the other seat in contrast to the shiny seated part, so that's a good way to check. I'm looking for a carb adjustment procedure for a Briggs carb on a 4-stroke Briggs 20 HP single cylinder OHV in my tractor mower, but ran across this one, which was great. If you have one, please give me a link for it. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
I like those wood slats you use in the vise, and the socket. I change them in much the same way Dony. Thanks for taking the time to show us yer knowledge!
Bingo. The 8hp I'm fixing is the back-up motor used to spin the world around really really fast that creates gravity and all the science stuff. You saved world Donny. cheers. rodney. Australia.
Thanks Donyboy. I prefer your second method of extraction, because it utilizes all of the threads at the beginning, when the force would need to be the highest (probably doesn't matter for this job). I would look hard for a piece of tubing before I would go to the trouble of grinding down a socket. :=) Do you have any suggestions on how to grind it?
Dony you did a very good job on replacing the seat by tapping new threads and pulling it out. I have seen a job done differently and that was, by putting in a self tapping screw in the seat and pulling it out by just pulling on the screw and out it came. It saved a lot of time.
I know it's the wrong way and I don't advise it but I tapped a flathead screwdriver into the seat to where it was so snug I just yanked it out of there. it worked. The way he does it here is ingenious, very cool.
If you don't have a narrow open end wrench for the solenoid removal and don't want to grind down a good wrench, a wire stripper/coax tool works just fine I found. FYI
You don't actually need to use a socket to make a puller. What I did was a combo of this video and another I saw, in which the guy grabbed the bolt he ran in with a pair of channel locks then rapped the channel lock pliers with a rubber mallet to drive it out. The advantage in THIS video however is that the other guy just ran a SCREW into the seat. Using a tap to make 1/4 X 20 threads makes a lot more sense to me because it is a more controlled method with no chance of tearing things up beyond all repair... In my mind - wood screws and metal items (carbs especially) need to be kept far away from each other. A last note: Most carb kits for these come with several different parts. There will be TWO inlet valve seats, because the one with a smaller orifice is for engines supplied by a fuel PUMP, the other seat in the kit has a LARGER orifice - and is for gravity fed fuel systems.
Simple, facile à comprendre et bien filmé. J'apprécie tout particulièrement tes trucs et astuces pour substituer des solutions-maisons aux outils spécialisés. Félicitations !
one thing I noticed that when the carb has a very slow flooding problem - I would check the Viton needle that sits on the needle, I noticed on the one I am working on- the Viton is not sitting flat on the needle - it is "canted" so the Viton is not square with the needle housing, - I am going to get a new needle and see if that cures the slow leak.
Already had the ground half inch wrench, now I've got a ground down extended socket. Yours is much cleaner. I managed with an angle grinder. Thanks for the very informative video!
I had my mower repairman put on a new carburetor on my Craftsman LT1000 two years ago. The mower hasn't been used much during that time and for that reason, my thinking is the needle and/or the float may just be fouled with gunk from the fuel. Because it seems unlikely to have gone bad in such a short time. The mower was stored indoors and the fuel drained from the tank. However, before replacing any of the carburetor parts, I'm going to remove the bowl, float and needle and give them a good cleaning with carb cleaner to see if that fixes the problem. I will, however, change the oil because I'm certain there is gas in it. It was running well but blowing white smoke as it ran.
One thing people can try too is to take some brass/metal polish and clean the needle and seat. Take a q-tip and connect it to a drill, dip the q-tip in the metal polish, and go at the seat. Keep going until the metal is nice and shiny. You can clean the needle by hand with a rag. Once you are all set, verify the needle moves freely in the seat, and re-assemble. This saved my lawn mower from needing a needle and seat, and doing this cleaned up my snowmobile carbs very well.
not a bad idea keeps carb from getting gummed as well. My solution although pricier for a neighbors mower was a brand new carb for 100 dollars mower ran great all summer better than it has for a couple of summers
Excellent video. One thing you might talk about in the next seat removal video is the depth at which the seat is installed affects the float level. I'm sure you've covered it in other videos.
i hate those antifire solenoids, ive snipped every one off, if you purchase a briggs float bowl kit, it comes with a bowl gasket, new bowl and antifire bypass bolt. i use fuel shut off valves on all my stuff, all i do is shut it and let my tractor idle till float bowl is empty. thanks for the tip on needle valve replacement.
clever extraction method. I used to rebuild carbs but now there are 3rd party nikki type carbs on ebay for $28 shipped. its like 10 bucks more than the rebuild kits and takes like 3 mins to change out haha.
You are the best!!! I have the same carb and couldnt get the solenoid off. Never occurred to me to grind down an old wrench to make it thinner. Thanks!
Warning: There is a danger in the B&S V-Twin fueling systems. Gas tank above the carburetor, leaky shut off and float valve, probably from rubber 1/4" hoses under mowing conditions trash in fuel won't let fuel be shut off. In two-three days over a gallon of gas run thru intake valves & rings into crankcase. Cranked hard due to hydraulic lock, explosion can result. Beware, I add a fuel cutoff valve to fuel line and shut it off every time I use my mower. I have also added a fuel filter below the fuel pump with new line to carburetor, to catch trash. After this experience, no more chances with Intek twin.
Solenoid does NOT shut off fuel TO the float bowl, will NOT stop overflow from bad needle/ seat; solenoid shuts off fuel between the float bowl to the main jet to prevent muffler backfire when people shut of engine at high speed dumping raw gas into a hot muffler.
When replacing anti-backfire solenoids on these carburetors, I occasionally have problems with leaking through the connection where the solenoid screws in. You did not mention using a washer with that connection. Do you use a washer, and if so, do you use a fiber washer or a metal washer? Also, a 1/2” open end tappet wrench can often fit in the space available, if you don’t want to grind down one of your other 1/2” wrenches. Thanks for another great video.
I am wondering if I could do this on an old Eska 5hp outboard motor. Original carb had a vitron tipped needle and brass seat, cannot find a proper replacement, the carb kit I ordered had a solid needle and viton seal for the seat which doesn't work for my application. Interesting process, I should be able to find something comparable. As always, very informative and really like the improvised tools used. :)
how could i get to the governor spring and gear,i'm loosing a bit of oil at the elbow where the governor lever goes into engine compartment and lawnmower honda gcv 160 (2008) is running at a higher rpm (at least it seems to me)I,suspect that the gear or spring is broken.Thank you guys for your great contribution to this channel
I find as you did that seat was not flush but some manuals say to put it flush. That is confusing. I guess best is to compare seats and if same size then match the one that came out
thanks dony for those advises . I have ecxacly the same carburator on my tractor but it does the oposit of fluding thereS not enough gas going down the cup . It start well but after a few secounds it begins to run eraticly . Have to pull the choke on and then stops. the cylinder compresion is at 110, cleaned the carb.and everything. What would be the problem do you think Thanks
Hey got a ? for you? How do you flush lawn mower engine after gas got in oil,because carb float was bad and didn't know it.I drained the oil.Had gas in exhust,got that out.I'm just wondering if filling it with new oil and running it to get it hot,then drain it again would clean it out?
What would you do if the inside of the carbarator where the needle and seat is,, is plastic with a rubber O ring with the rubber running all around and through under the plastic on the aluminum and the cap is aluminum as well
I saw this video while trying to repair a 5-4993 Walbro. The last thing I wanted to do is to replace the seat...… but it was still failing after doing all the other tasks. I had to replace the seat...…. Your idea of tapping the insert is BRILLIANT. I am in the UK and I threaded it with metric tap. It worked PERFECTLY. I didn't grind a socket, I simply used a length of steel tube. Surprisingly, the OUTSIDE of the seat had corroded (electrolytically?) and was allowing fuel to bypass the needle valve and seat. Another surprise! I assume that water had entered the carb and been allowed to stand.
Anyway, thanks again...… that saved me a HUGE amount of shouting as swearing!
I will never have to do this type of work, but I just enjoy watching all your videos because they are so well made.
Never say Never. You may end up fixing someones mower for a few bucks.
@@LiezerZero yes that is exactly how i a 14 year old became a riding mower or a small engine fanatic
You do have all the good stuff, and the best part is you're not afraid to share it! :>)
Thanks Dony
always showing the best techniques to make the job easier.
great job, cant wait for more videos on snowblowers and lawnmowers and string trimmers
again thanks for all your great advice.
keep them coming.
thank you very much for going to the trouble to post this excellent video. this has sorted my issue with a flooding Murray.local repair shop just wanted to put a new carb into it. its an old mower and i didn't want to spend a small fortune fixing it.
Hey man! I just want to thank you do being so helpful. In my 8 years of working on these engines, I am now almost 15. I started when my uncle gave me a Briggs & Stratton 5hp Fun Power on a go kart from. Great engine, didn't want to mess it up, so I learned the majority of my knowledge on a little 3hp updraft carb engine. I loved that little engine, and I cranked it over, took it apart, put it back together, everything. I would take rides with my dad on the gokart now and then. I started driving about age 7 and a half. Great times. My dad taught me various things with that little 3 horse, like pulling the valves in and out, lapping, working on the carb, and other things. once I was experienced, I took down the engine to prepare myself for what I should expect in an engine. I noted all of the parts and figured it out. I sadly had to trash it because we were moving into a smaller home. I was able to keep some engines, thankfully. That was an older 4.0 Quantum and a 3.5. I have now a 5hp Fun Power, a '70 2.5hp Golden Boy engine on an edger, a restored '60s 2hp, a restored '54 Briggs Model 5S, a '94 horizontal 3.5hp, a '00 5hp lawn mower engine that I'm rebuilding, and a few others, including 2 cycles. Thank you for your help. You have been a source for about 80% of my knowledge on these engines, no joke. I can not thank you enough. By the way, on a small 3.5hp horizontal shaft with a pulsa jet carb, how would I pop out the welch plug on the front of the carb. Thank you Don
+Mitchell Richardson you're welcome Mitchell, I rarely replace those welsh plugs but usually I carefully drill a small hole then use a pick to pry out
I never thought you could replace that cool thanks for the video
Excellent, as always. Thank you for making the effort to share your knowledge.
+MIKE O'BRIEN you're welcome
@@donyboy73 can you use pressure gauge to test to check the seat you just installed
sure appreciate this and all your videos Don... very easy to understand ... you make my life a lot easier. thanks muchly
Blew my mind dernit that little jig you made. 👍👍Makes me happy to see ppl who not only use knowledge but give as well. Excellent video. Thank you sir. I will probably use this info many times over.
Ive made this repair on an old B/S tractor and know it works, thanks for making a nice clean video of how to do it!
Thanks for the demonstration! I'll be doing this repair as soon as the parts come in.
Great video I used a 1/4" x 28 tap and 1/4"x28 bolt to remove seat donyboy73 keep them coming
Dony, what can I say ? you da man ! I don't even own that lawn tractor but I learned a lot watching this ! thank you !
Right on Donny , I thought I was the only one that knew this trick .. LOL ! Thumbs up man works super well ..
+ShawnMrFixitlee thanks for watching
Don, thanks! I had a B&S 17 hp ohv engine crank case fill up with fuel and managed to stop what I was doing to check the oil, finding it full of fuel like you show. Got the carb off and was trying to figure out how to get that solenoid off with the tools I have. Thanks for showing. By the way, there is another vid online regarding how the solenoid can fail also, causing the same results with the B&S engine! I want to thank you for saving me tons of money, too, I just retired and am on fixed income that does not budget for this kind of problem (engine ruining!!!). I wish you well, sir!
A faulty anti backfire solenoid will not cause the engine to flood with gas. It can how ever cause the engine not to run or cause a backfire as the plunger isn't fast enough to stop the fuel flow.
Worked like a charm for me! Thank you for showing how to replace the seat with common tools!
TY FOR A VERY GOOD VIDEO, LEARN A LOT ON CARBS. GOD BLESS
I wouldn't have had a clue how to do this before watching this video. After watching this, I could do this myself. The clever tricks of grinding down the 1/2" wrench , and the socket , are tricks of the trade that you have learned and are sharing. The quality of your videos and your teaching skills are excellent. Thank you Sir!
+arciefan you're welcome, make sure you are subscribed
Thank you! This is a lot of help to a laymen, like myself, so I can do my own repairs. Your video is very well made!
+Clarence Pinkerton thanks
I couldn't find anywhere that showed how to take the seat out. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! You save me from going crazy....LOL
At the back of the carb between motor and carb there is a track effect. The gas is leaking from there when I put it back together? Is that because the needle and seat isn’t working ?
I am glad I found your site. This video is excellent. Great camera work, details, and explanation as well. Excellent clinic doctor!
make sure you're subscribed
@@donyboy73 You Know IT!
Nice demo. I repectfully add that although its more common with copper floats. its always a good idea to give the float a shake to ensure no fuel is in it. I just installed the needle valve only in mine and its still flooding so its coming apart again to see what happened
check the float setting you may have it set too high so it want stop fuel flow as the fuel fills the bowl it should stop the fuel incoming with that little rubber tip needle if thats not happening it will flood
Always a pleasure to see you perform useful repairs. And we are the lucky ones!
Your the man donyboy, best video's on u tube. well explained. well done...
Once again you have helped me with your video. Thankyou so much for posting these!
Salesman told me replacing the needle and seat probably would'nt fix the problem. Mower now runs better than ever!
Thanks again!
I'm addicted to your videos! They are a wealth of knowledge.
make sure to watch all 1000 of them
I will let you know when I'm finished.
Thank you donyboy. i will be trying tomorrow. like the idea of using a nut and bolt to install the new brass seat. 2 thumbs up!
I watched a video last night where a guy pulled a needle valve seat, but your way is much, much better. Tapping for a ¼" bolt is way more precise and makes sure the seat comes straight up. His was pulled at an angle. I'll find an old ⅜" socket and thin it out on my bench grinder. He did compare the depth to the exposed darker mark on the other seat in contrast to the shiny seated part, so that's a good way to check. I'm looking for a carb adjustment procedure for a Briggs carb on a 4-stroke Briggs 20 HP single cylinder OHV in my tractor mower, but ran across this one, which was great. If you have one, please give me a link for it. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
I like those wood slats you use in the vise, and the socket. I change them in much the same way Dony. Thanks for taking the time to show us yer knowledge!
+Dave Horst have a good weekend
Homemade tools are the best! :)
great video. excellent photography, good editing. thanks
+James Mullins thanks James, have a good weekend
Bingo. The 8hp I'm fixing is the back-up motor used to spin the world around really really fast that creates gravity and all the science stuff. You saved world Donny. cheers. rodney. Australia.
i recommend using oem needle and seat, fits better
Thank you! This seems to be similar to my own problem. I’ll check the oil, as you showed, in the morning.
Thanks Donyboy. I prefer your second method of extraction, because it utilizes all of the threads at the beginning, when the force would need to be the highest (probably doesn't matter for this job). I would look hard for a piece of tubing before I would go to the trouble of grinding down a socket. :=) Do you have any suggestions on how to grind it?
Great. I was going to do it like so but Google and YT is my friend and it payed off. It wont hurt to look for pros. 👍
Clean video, something very rare in this community, good job!
Straight to the point I love that
Dony you did a very good job on replacing the seat by tapping new threads and pulling it out. I have seen a job done differently and that was, by putting in a self tapping screw in the seat and pulling it out by just pulling on the screw and out it came. It saved a lot of time.
I know it's the wrong way and I don't advise it but I tapped a flathead screwdriver into the seat to where it was so snug I just yanked it out of there. it worked. The way he does it here is ingenious, very cool.
Perfect timing for me. I need to replace two for both my tractors I have the parts and was struggling to find a good way to remove the old seat
used a bolt extractor to remove the seat on mine. worked good. hadnt thought of threading it though, and using a "bolt & socket" puller
Great video young man. Will be ordering parts to repair my mower. Easy instructions to follow.
That was incredibly helpful. Thanks. It turned out I just had some oil and muck stopping the needle, which meant the engine was flooding with petrol.
Thanks that was excellent I didn't know you could thread them without breaking the housing
Hi Donny: Great Video, I ordered parts the other day as far as the Toro installation tool I was told it is discontinued !!
If you don't have a narrow open end wrench for the solenoid removal and don't want to grind down a good wrench, a wire stripper/coax tool works just fine I found. FYI
You don't actually need to use a socket to make a puller. What I did was a combo of this video and another I saw, in which the guy grabbed the bolt he ran in with a pair of channel locks then rapped the channel lock pliers with a rubber mallet to drive it out. The advantage in THIS video however is that the other guy just ran a SCREW into the seat. Using a tap to make 1/4 X 20 threads makes a lot more sense to me because it is a more controlled method with no chance of tearing things up beyond all repair... In my mind - wood screws and metal items (carbs especially) need to be kept far away from each other.
A last note: Most carb kits for these come with several different parts. There will be TWO inlet valve seats, because the one with a smaller orifice is for engines supplied by a fuel PUMP, the other seat in the kit has a LARGER orifice - and is for gravity fed fuel systems.
Great info as always
zyplex1
Never had to replace a seat, but it's good to know. Thanks
Simple, facile à comprendre et bien filmé. J'apprécie tout particulièrement tes trucs et astuces pour substituer des solutions-maisons aux outils spécialisés. Félicitations !
+Daniel Robert merci
Malik Martin Yes, Monsieur !
Thanks Don!
one thing I noticed that when the carb has a very slow flooding problem - I would check the Viton needle that sits on the needle, I noticed on the one I am working on- the Viton is not sitting flat on the needle - it is "canted" so the Viton is not square with the needle housing, - I am going to get a new needle and see if that cures the slow leak.
Smashing :-D, i like your tap method, controlled extraction with minimal force ;-D
+zx8401ztv thanks
Already had the ground half inch wrench, now I've got a ground down extended socket. Yours is much cleaner. I managed with an angle grinder. Thanks for the very informative video!
thanks for for taking the time to show us this
I had my mower repairman put on a new carburetor on my Craftsman LT1000 two years ago. The mower hasn't been used much during that time and for that reason, my thinking is the needle and/or the float may just be fouled with gunk from the fuel. Because it seems unlikely to have gone bad in such a short time. The mower was stored indoors and the fuel drained from the tank. However, before replacing any of the carburetor parts, I'm going to remove the bowl, float and needle and give them a good cleaning with carb cleaner to see if that fixes the problem. I will, however, change the oil because I'm certain there is gas in it. It was running well but blowing white smoke as it ran.
Well done thanks for shearing this process.
Excellent video. I was just looking for info on cleaning the carb, but this breaks it all down enough. Thx.
One thing people can try too is to take some brass/metal polish and clean the needle and seat. Take a q-tip and connect it to a drill, dip the q-tip in the metal polish, and go at the seat. Keep going until the metal is nice and shiny. You can clean the needle by hand with a rag. Once you are all set, verify the needle moves freely in the seat, and re-assemble. This saved my lawn mower from needing a needle and seat, and doing this cleaned up my snowmobile carbs very well.
Safest thing to do is install a $3 manual fuel shut-off and run it dry every time you use it.
not a bad idea keeps carb from getting gummed as well. My solution although pricier for a neighbors mower was a brand new carb for 100 dollars mower ran great all summer better than it has for a couple of summers
Nah, that's not enough. I have TWO with the cut off, and both still flood the crank case with oil, quickly. Doing this on both.
Excellent video. One thing you might talk about in the next seat removal video is the depth at which the seat is installed affects the float level. I'm sure you've covered it in other videos.
I measured mine today and it was .045 inch from the edge of the seat to the body of the carburetor.
Great video , wasn't sure what was going on with my mower . It's blowing black gas out of a hose in the air filter and dies .
thanks don that's what i thought it mite be but did not know how to do it, thanks
i hate those antifire solenoids, ive snipped every one off, if you purchase a briggs float bowl kit, it comes with a bowl gasket, new bowl and antifire bypass bolt. i use fuel shut off valves on all my stuff, all i do is shut it and let my tractor idle till float bowl is empty. thanks for the tip on needle valve replacement.
clever extraction method.
I used to rebuild carbs but now there are 3rd party nikki type carbs on ebay for $28 shipped. its like 10 bucks more than the rebuild kits and takes like 3 mins to change out haha.
What a brilliant idea for removing the Seat .👍
You are the best!!! I have the same carb and couldnt get the solenoid off. Never occurred to me to grind down an old wrench to make it thinner. Thanks!
Dony, very, very helpful! Thank you!
Great Video! The little puller was an excellent idea!!
I use the bolt and nut , I like the jet screwdriver
Warning: There is a danger in the B&S V-Twin fueling systems. Gas
tank above the carburetor, leaky shut off and float valve, probably from
rubber 1/4" hoses under mowing conditions trash in fuel won't let fuel
be shut off. In two-three days over a gallon of gas run thru intake
valves & rings into crankcase. Cranked hard due to hydraulic lock,
explosion can result. Beware, I add a fuel cutoff valve to fuel line and
shut it off every time I use my mower. I have also added a fuel filter
below the fuel pump with new line to carburetor, to catch trash. After
this experience, no more chances with Intek twin.
Outstanding, I see reading the comments the solenoid is to shut off the gas, mine has a MANUAL solenoid which I put on long ago.
+Grant W. Whitwam yep your right
Solenoid does NOT shut off fuel TO the float bowl, will NOT stop overflow from bad needle/ seat; solenoid shuts off fuel between the float bowl to the main jet to prevent muffler backfire when people shut of engine at high speed dumping raw gas into a hot muffler.
When replacing anti-backfire solenoids on these carburetors, I occasionally have problems with leaking through the connection where the solenoid screws in. You did not mention using a washer with that connection. Do you use a washer, and if so, do you use a fiber washer or a metal washer? Also, a 1/2” open end tappet wrench can often fit in the space available, if you don’t want to grind down one of your other 1/2” wrenches. Thanks for another great video.
Thankyou thankyou thankyou .
thanks for the tips Don!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Great video Don! Have a good weekend.
+cubbeezx thanks, you too
Thanks once again Dony. Your videos are very helpful to me. Have a Great weekend.
Great video, carefully produced.
Thanks for this function information, I have the same on my 12hp Viking mt780.
By myself it's sand in ohhh no.
Thank you.
I never trust them carburettors I always turn the in line fuel tap off when the engines not running, If they don't have a tap I install one.
On my B&S 25hp intek the factory put 1 of the main jets in needle seat jamming the float i dont know how it ran at all just dumbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
where you used ground socket I use a bushing with id slightly larger than seat od and put a 1/4" id washer on top and then the bolt with nut on it.
I am wondering if I could do this on an old Eska 5hp outboard motor. Original carb had a vitron tipped needle and brass seat, cannot find a proper replacement, the carb kit I ordered had a solid needle and viton seal for the seat which doesn't work for my application. Interesting process, I should be able to find something comparable. As always, very informative and really like the improvised tools used. :)
Happy Canada Day
how could i get to the governor spring and gear,i'm loosing a bit of oil at the elbow where the
governor lever goes into engine compartment and lawnmower honda gcv 160 (2008)
is running at a higher rpm (at least it seems to me)I,suspect that the gear or spring is
broken.Thank you guys for your great contribution to this channel
Excellent video! New subscriber here. Thanks for sharing!
I find as you did that seat was not flush but some manuals say to put it flush. That is confusing. I guess best is to compare seats and if same size then match the one that came out
thanks dony for those advises . I have ecxacly the same carburator on my tractor but it does the oposit of fluding thereS not enough gas going down the cup . It start well but after a few secounds it begins to run eraticly . Have to pull the choke on and then stops. the cylinder compresion is at 110, cleaned the carb.and everything. What would be the problem do you think Thanks
Thumbs Up, Good Home tool Tips in this video
Thanks again,as always your awesome Don,love your videos,you show neat tricks!!
thanks
Hey got a ? for you? How do you flush lawn mower engine after gas got in oil,because carb float was bad and didn't know it.I drained the oil.Had gas in exhust,got that out.I'm just wondering if filling it with new oil and running it to get it hot,then drain it again would clean it out?
What would you do if the inside of the carbarator where the needle and seat is,, is plastic with a rubber O ring with the rubber running all around and through under the plastic on the aluminum and the cap is aluminum as well
this guy has great info thanks bro great work and thanks for the knowledge
Great video - thanks for sharing - have a great weekend.
Thank you! from mid michigan.
Its harder doing alot of things without a vice though so id do it by holding it on my lap and on the ground
Nice vid. Thank you!
Excellent job!
Great teacher.
Great job on this video.