The reason this needs to be done on such a new engine is because these engines slowly lose compression through the Piston rings and the valve tolerances aren't as tight, so they pull in the same amount of air but less fuel. By slightly enlarging that pilot jet, you make it easier for the engine to pull in a bit more fuel!
@@loganminto1589 walbro, but you need to pull up a parts diagram for your machine and then get the walbro equivalent. The part number should be in the parts diagram. It'll show 2 carbs, machines were built with either or, walbros are definitely better.
@@EliminatorPerformance so I hear that in 2012-2013 Briggs had a problem with the carbs on Polar force engines, I have a 1150 250CC on my 28" deluxe, it is surging, and will only run well with choke, on the low circuit it needs 3 notches, 1 notch for the high circuit rally smooths it out, but it basically does not surge in the high idle, just on low idle, a friend said to get the replacement carb update, thoughts?
@@EliminatorPerformance Si señor otro defecto es que se vencen las orejas donde aprietan los tornillos de la cuba y no aprieta el arito de goma de la caja del punzon ni el sello del laberinto Por tanto la gasolina se filtra . El modo de restaurar es con una lija 240 sobre un vidrio pasar varias veces la cuba hasta lograr que asiente de nuevo y tenga apriete.
Have a Tecumseh carb that does the same thing. Your thoughts? I also have a Honda hs520 snowblower that I put a new carb on that won’t start in the cold but if you bring it in the warm and choke it will start first pull 🤦🏻♂️
I've been fighting with a Nikki on a 17HP OHV Briggs Intek on a 12-year-old riding lawnmower for the past 48 hours, found your video, applied what you showed, and solved my problem! THANK YOU so much!!!
I have been dealing with surging for 4 years. Tried 2 other carbs, and took it to the shop, but nothing worked. This trick worked right off the bat. Thank you.
When I was a little boy pushing a mower around the neighborhood (1970s), I carried a small screwdriver in my pocket to adjust the carb when it started hunting. As a man, the EPA has removed the screw, and I must spend hours taking the dang thang apart and DRILLING out the brass Pilot Jet. This is what we mean by "life was simpler then". Best to all.
I remember when you could adjust the timing on a car just by loosening a nut on the distributor and twisting it until it sounded right! Then again . . . I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 220 K miles, and it's running great. Back in the day, that was unimaginable. Modernity is definitely a mixed bag. Some things have been gained, some things have been lost ;-) All the best!
I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon to replace my Nikki carb. It ran terribly surging and popping. I fixed it with the help of this video - pretty amazing
Same here (hard to beat $10 for a new carb) a little different location for the low speed jet, still brass jet off to the side, took it to 0.0195” pretty much took away 90% of the surging. Going to take it to .021-.023” and see if I get it to 100%. The main jet is around 0.0375” , runs fine under a load before and after the adjustment.
I’ve got a craftsman lawn tractor with a Nikki carb that’s surges like hell, been fighting with it for a while, put a brand new carb on it and it still surges just as bad, so I’m going to try this
I have to thank you but for a different reason. I took my Nikki carb apart and the main jet fell out onto my work bench. I did not know at the time it was the main jet and I assumed it went somewhere in the main body (the metal body). Found your video and there it was plain as day in the plastic part that holds the float assembly. Thanks again your video was great.
Okay, just finished up, she's running great now, here is my experience. I have the same engine and carb except it's an 11hp, my engine would surge and have zero ability to idle. I took the carb off 3 times opening up that jet all the way to .031" with no improvement at all. Upon further inspection, determining where the drilled pathways are routed visually and using gumout spray tube, found that this particular jet leads only to the larger of the two ports at the inlet side of the carburetor, it seems to be just a bowl vent port, not associated with the idle circuit. I found that the actual idle circuit port is on the opposite side of carb inside the bore (slot with a small hole next to it) behind the welch plug on the engine side of the throttle plate. This is the idle port and it draws fuel from another very small brass jet pressed deep into the hole at the end of the curved elongated channel shown at the lower left of frame at 2:16 in video . I covered the idle port with my pinky finger and sprayed gumout into the small brass idle circuit vent port at carb inlet and nothing came out this small brass jet. This is the jet that was plugged causing my machine to surge and have no idle at all, it seems to be about a .016" jet, I reamed it with an .018" drill bit making sure the drill bit reached all the way to the drilled channel that intersects the welch plug hole, tested in the same manner used earlier with gumout spray, it was now open and voila, success! EP, Thanks a bunch for the video, it did lead me to the solution.
That is the right solution! Port was clogged here too, cleaned, and voila, no more playing with choke to smooth that hunping up and down. And this is 12,5hp ohv from rifing mover, that doesnt even have that port like in video, but your way is the right way, thanks from finland! 👌
Thanks man, I swear youtube has become my encyclopedia brittanica nowadays. I sure appreciate this video, I ended up since I couldnt see the size on the drill bits (older age) I went 4 sizes up from the one that would actually go into the jet. I worked perfectly, thank you sooo much!!!
Nice video showing some really simple repair issue to eliminate hunting. Not sure who gave you the dislike must be someone that blew up their Ariens snowblower by not letting it warm up on low idle during super below zero temperatures.
Thank you! I’ll have to try this. That may explain why my lawn tractor runs perfect with the blades on at full throttle but surges when the blades are off
I am currently having problem with my Briggs & stratton Nikki carbie. Surging when on idle. You video is really helpful. I will try this out. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video. I used a 0.029" drill and my lawn tractor ran like new afterwards, no surging or popping sounds anymore. Make sure to not buy the drill bits with the colored plastic collars as I broke two really easily just spinning the bit with my fingers. The bit broke off deep in the hole so I had to screw a screw into the brass part and pry the whole nozzle out and then remove the stuck bit and hammer the nozzle back in place.
Thanks for the video and help my BS 19.5 hp riding mower a lot. After drilled pilot hole to 0.1mm, all the surge issue gone for good and thanks for the explanation why need bigger hole. Will keep in mine when other push mower have same problem will be easy fixed.
I bought a 2003 Craftsman LT 3000 with a 20hp Briggs. It had an knock off Nikki carb on it and would only get a 3rd of a the throttle before surging started. The smallest drill I had was .040 and I tried your trick. Engine now starts, runs, and cuts grass great. Thanks for the video.
I just got a aftermarket (Chinese) Nikki for a Briggs 14.5 HP and had to drill the jet from Factory #75 / .022" to .039" or, a # 61 drill. Actually, it could use going to .040" / # 61. This thing was surging bad when first put on. I work on a lot of engines and never had to go .017"+ on the LS / pilot jet that far.As far as I am concerned, .017" larger is drastic. But, all is well now and the customer will be happy. Thanks for the video
Great video - you're the 20th video I watched (give or take), but I'm 90% sure this is the issue. Now I have to decide if I try the fix ... or just buy a new carb assembly. Great job, and great production quality on the video - thank you!
A couple of months ago I started putting all Nikki carbs in acid dip bucket, that really helps and then into utra sonic cleaner for 15 minutes Been having good luck with the surging problems with out drill
You can thank the EPA for making carburetors/engines run so incredibly lean, and without any ability to adjust the idle mixture, or high speed mixture in any way ! This problem starts to show up in engines at roughly two and a half years, to three years of service depending on use. While everything is new, and tight, and running within the tight EPA restrictions, everything is just fine, however, once the engine begins to wear itself in, ( not worn out in any way ) and compression drops slightly, and vacuum drops off slightly, these engines begin to start starving for fuel ! ( surging and popping through the carburetor ) Even replacement of the carburetor with a brand new carburetor will not correct this problem ! It is my belief that this is done intensionally, forcing the public to purchase a new unit entirely, or be facing a rather large service invoice ! Thank you for your valuable video ! Most people have no idea what to, or where to begin !
@@EliminatorPerformance Yes, I agree with you ! We are a small engine repair facility, and a new equipment dealership, and see at least two or three of these customer units a week with the surging issue. The problem is, the r & r time, not every unit requires the same size of micro-drillbit, so we sneak up on the size cautiously, so we don't destroy the carb. Usually, the third time is the charm, and yep, .032-.034 is about the same average that we see as well. That's after the second ultrasound cleaning ! So at the hourly rate, times two or three, it is still much less than a new mower, or engine ! Not to mention, the damage that we are seeing caused by ethenol fuels, and the lack of a quality fuel stabilizer depending on the seasonal piece of equipment that we are being presented with. And it's much worse in smaller engines, string trimmers, leaf blowers, chainsaws, etc. ! Darn shame what is being done to the general public !
@@quadsman11 you got it right about the ethanol fuel! And all this could be fixed by simply adding in a Air fuel mixture screw! But they don't want people to adjust then due to emissions! I say, make them the "tamper proof" ones and give us a tool like the Pac-Man or Spline screw to adjust it like a chainsaw!
@@EliminatorPerformance You couldn't be more right ! But then then, the rest of my theory wouldn't hold any water ! They wouldn't be able to sell new tractors/mowers, tillers, pressure washers, etc. And guys like us might actually stand half a chance of correcting a simple problem with a simple tool ! But wait ! That half turn or so to richen up the fuel mixture might make the air unbreathable ! One of the mfr. carbs we get in actually have a mixture adjustment screw, but it is essentially about worthless. Very little affect, and not worth even being there. I am tempted to do a little rogue off the record mods to one, when we aren't on customer equipment, and customer time, and see what I can accomplish. We see so many of these every week, it is just such a shame ! Have four customer units sitting on deck waiting for us to get to tomorrow morning ! Or, maybe Tuesday, don't know about you, but we have been absolutely covered up with customer service work ! Have one right now, I'm ready to start a new TH-cam site on, crushing it out in the parking lot, and putting it out of my misery !
thanks for the vid, have this kinda carb on my rider which had an issue, I went to clean the carb and when I reassembled I hadn't noticed the small O ring by the inlet, so the carb pissed fuel everywhere when I put it back on. I had thought it was the main gasket ring that had failed. Found an O ring in my stash that fit and sealed it back up. Plastic doesn't belong in carb!
Plastic doesn’t belong on/in the motor! It’s all too often now that I take something apart and there’s a plastic governor or cam gear. I’d rather keep buying old k series kohlers that were made to last.
I had a Nikki carb that had a really bad surge you can really hear it sucking air in it's a distinct type of surge. I kept cleaning the carburetor out and cleaning the carburetor out and it would not go away so finally I examined it thoroughly and realized that the Welch plug on the outside was completely missing it must have vibrated off put a new welch plug in and it purred like a kitten so that's another thing that's very rare but it can happen and it has happened the specifically on this Nikki carburetor
Yeah very unusual for that to happen, sometimes these aftermarket carbs aren't built to the same standards as an OEM carb would be. I suppose if the adhesive they use let go, it could happen! Usually if a welch plug comes loose, I take a punch and deform the metal around the area to help keep it in place. Thanks for watching!
I was thinking about trying this with a Nikki Carburetor I replaced. That is exactly what it was doing even after I rebuilt it. I didn't know you could possibly save one of these precious things...LOL Am not a big fan of them myself. Even the new one I put on will still caugh some. May drill it out too if this works... LOL Great Video! 🍻
Now this is what I have been searching for. I was about to make a big mistake and drill out the main jet. I'm working on an aftermarket carb that supposedly is after the Nikki. The low idle jet is in a different spot on this one. I had purchased my drill bits in advanced in hopes of another search to find a better video. I had attended a small engine course, but all the parts of a motor can't be accomplished in one semester.
Of course, I have the not so popular Ruixing carb instead. Basically no information online about it. Couldn't get the pin out so sprayed it out the best I could, although it looks like brand new inside still.
Thanks for the video and explanation. I have a Briggs & Stratton 5500W generator with the Nikki-style carburetor. I've a few questions that I am hope you can help answer. First: I rebuilt my older carburetor on this machine a couple of time. The large main bowl gasket is problematic in that it won't sit well in all the grooves (in fact, it feels like the gasket is not the right dimensions). Is there a trick to get it seated? Second: I recently replaced the old carburetor with a brand new one and changed the plug to get things ready for our summer hurricane season. The engine ran well, and when we had a power outage, it also ran well through the first gasoline tank. Then, when the tank was refilled, the engine began to surge. I have difficulty believing the problem was the carburetor idle jet being too restricted (as you describe in the video) since this is a brand-new carburetor and the engine ran fine initially. Is there another root cause that I can check? Lastly: Is there a differently designed carburetor that I can replace the Nikki with? Thanks! Kirk
I was on Google today trying to troubleshoot my sears (Briggs and Stratton) snowblower. Your video popped in to my recommendation and I am now eager to solve this problem...once and for all!! Thanks kindly for the great info as I was getting frustrated trying to figure out if the idle jet could be replaced with a larger one...somehow! I do own a micro drill set and will follow your procedures as you have shown. I do have a question regarding the spring that sits between the bottom of the float bowl and the float assembly...does this spring keep the float assembly in place. I could not see it when you displayed the carb when it was apart. Great video....and yes 👍
Ive been looking for a video like this for a long time .I have a wacker ride on roller.When u first start it it runs good . two minutes after running engine on high with a load the engine starts to surge and then it wants to die .I am going to rebuild the carb and try your idea with the low speed idle jet.Thank you
Anytime, just remember to start as low as you can and increase slow. When I say it's trial and error I mean it, if you go to big you have to replace the carb. So spend the time like I did and you'll find the sweet spot!
Iv been working on mowers for over 40 years..every engine I junked, I kept the carbs. I have a bunch of walbros and old Niki carbs..just grabbed 10 more old style walbros from a local scrapper...the old carbs are bullet proof
What after market carb do you recommend for a Brute 29", Briggs and Stratton 13.5 - 1695576 snow blower? My son was using it a few years ago, left the gas in it for entire season while it didn't snow much. The gas broke down and froze. Everything in the carb was bent or broken. I DIY-er rebuilt it. It runs super rich. I'd like to get another carb and I really don't want another Nikki.
Interesting, mine doesn't have that piece, the hole is empty. I couldn't quite tell, but does your carb have the air fuel mixture screw at the top next to the idle screw? I agree that it is a terrible carb design. What doesn't help is when I got this mower, there was no main jet. I have been 3D printing some and drilling them different sizes to try and figure out what is correct, but I haven't gotten it to run completely smooth. Currently I have it drilled out to a 62, which seems way too large because my bit kit only goes to 61 at the largest...
Hi, i have the exact same problem with my snow plower, I'm running idle with 3/4 choke on it. Is it possible to fit an non-Nikki carburetor on the same motor to have the iddle adjustment on it? like Honda carb?
I pulled my carb off yesterday and cleaned and reinstalled, but still surging at idle under no load. Anything else I need to check before enlarging the idle jet hole?
Thank you very much for taking the time to make video like this. It has been very helpful. I need to replace a Nikky carb and on the web there is so many aftermarket brands. Do you have a brand that you would recommend ? Thanks !
Just try to find one on Amazon with high reviews, and a high seller rating. So if you have an issue, they usually send you another and you keep the bad one for parts!
I have 22 Hp Briggs and Stratton engine with Nikki carburetor. I can start engine but RPM is very low and if I try to accelerate my engine would die. Any idea?
I have a 10 hp ohv generator. Problem is that have to choke some to keep it running and also surges at times . I have taken apart the carb and cleaned it out twice, but do not have the brass low speed. Only have a the whole thats to the right of the high speed as you are looking at the base. Also the carb that is on the this does not have an o ring where the fuel comes in. The o ring is part of the rubber gasket and plastic has two small slots the fit into the hole to keep and align the plastic for the float. Any ideas on what else could try looking at.
The engines slowly lose compression in the Piston rings and the valve tolerances aren't as tight, so they pull in the same amount of air but less fuel. By slightly enlarging that pilot jet, you make it easier for the engine to pull in a bit more fuel!
Stupid question- I'm cleaning out our carb on a newly aquired chipper (Nikki) have you ever seen these o-ring gaskets swell overnight? I'm talking about the bowl gasket with all the attached areas. Thanks!
They're crap, I have bags and bags of them because sometimes they're formed bad right from the factory. NEVER buy aftermarket gaskets for this carb. Only OEM, and even still, they can have defects. Buy a couple and you'll always have a spare.
@@EliminatorPerformance thanks! Yeah you weren't kidding. Fortunately, after cleaning the carb completely, the chipper runs 100% after sitting for years (previous owner) Thank you X1000 for the great video!
Good video. I spent time yesterday taking my nikki carb off and cleaning (Simplicity with Briggs1650) but didn't make a diff. I'll try this next, thanks. Does anyone know what would be a good replacement carb for this piece of junk?
G'day mate, enjoyed the upload, quick question... Iv'e just opened two Nikki's up and theres no brass jet located where you drilled yours, both secondhand but I never thought to do a sound check of the motors running, I know one did flood if you left it and maybe the other one was surging anyway looking at rebuild kits and theres no replacement brass jet for the low end.
I've heard from some viewers that some of the nikki carbs don't have this hole. It's possible they changed the design, to eliminate this hole because it caused this issue. Others have said you can replace the main jet o-ring and it will solve the surging. Cheers.
I worked for a Toro dealer a few years ago. The newer Toro snowblowers with the Briggs engines would run really lean at low or high idle. Really bad surge, every single one of them.
Does the float on Nikki carbs have a specific adjustment ??? Or does the float just need to make sure the needle will seat and stop fuel flow. Can you please tell me if there is any adjustment at all or is it hit and miss type of affare ??? Thanks fella.
They're plastic and can't be adjusted unless you heat them up, but usually on the Nikki Design they can either leak at the needle valve or the o ring on the other side of the plastic.
@@EliminatorPerformance Have you used heat to slightly bend the bottom needle holder part on the float itself ??? Did you use a heat gun or what did you use ??? From my experience the float was always parallel with gasket side of the carb body ??? What I have with mine is the float with a new spring needle goes all the way up to the ceiling of the plastic float holder. If my memory serves me correctly, that will cause a rich or flooding carburetor ??? Thanks a bunch too. VF
@@EliminatorPerformance I learned something too. I'm one of those idiots who tried reaming out the main jet and destroyed the carb! I was so exasperated I ordered an OEM Walbro at $110. It worked, but man . . . Now I have another Nikki on a 15.5 HP BS and the engine is surging. I'll let you all know if I can get it to smooth out by reaming out the low end jet.
Hello. I have this carb on my Murray blower. My is also surging but i was thinking that it was because i dont have manual gas adjustment. The horizontal lever you have right next to carb I dont have. Dont you know why I dont have this lever on my blower? I am total noob. My first blower ever and I am new to servising my mover and blower I have 20e114-0115e1 engine
How do you fix with same concern with the same nikki carb with no low speed idle jet ? Mine does the same thing but at idle . Pull choke out some and it fixes it Thanks Billy. Thanks Billy
Hello Eliminator Performance I have a John Deere Snow Blower JD1130SE with a Briggs & Stratton 1550 Snow Series Max, Model - 21M214 with a Nikki Carb 793785 G02544 9X09 3A. You said you found a replacement Walbro Carb on e-bay. What number is the replacement and would it work on my engine? Thank you for your help. Cheers Willy
Question I bought a Nikki it has no low speed, how does that work? Also what is the other jet for that's under the plastic body? Not the one you adjusted but the other brass one .
Did you try blowing snow with it? I've gone through this myself and although it ran great with no load it died almost immediately once I tried to blow snow with it. I never did solve that one.
Did not try blowing snow, usually I just engage the Auger and listen for changes in RPM/sputtering etc... The engine had that slight sputter at 0.032" so I enlarged it to 0.034" and it solved the issue. It hasn't come back, so I'm assuming it's working fine. Thanks for watching Tommy!
The Walbro carbs, Google your model number and look for a IPL (ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST) and on the parts diagram they usually show the Nikki on the right and the Walbro on the left, use that part number and you should be able to to swap it (the throttle hookup/bolt pattern is designed the same).
@@EliminatorPerformance I found replacement Walbro carb on e-bay, have to be careful, because of all the knock-offs. Make sure detailed description states Walbro it is a few bucks more than knock-offs, but worth it.
I have a Nikki carburetor that is giving me trouble. It is on a Snapper ST2046 riding mower. The Briggs & Stratton # is 594207 . I purchased it used, and when I first ran it, it was OK on choke, but it would die immediately when I went on rabbit. So, I cleaned the carburetor and rebuilt it, and now it will run on rabbit, but it will slowly die out. Do you have an suggestions?
Sounds like the pilot can't put enough fuel through to run it on idle, either that or have a look at your main jet. Usually if a main jet is clogged, you need to run your engine with choke on.
@@EliminatorPerformance, thanks for the reply. I have a couple of questions. Where is the pilot? What can I do to fix it? If it is the main jet, is there anything specifically I need to do to clean it? I have used carb cleaner on it already.
@@storeemail1 find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner or get an aftermarket one on Amazon is probably the best option for you. Carb cleaning with carb cleaner won't be as effective.
hello, my generator that has hardly been used sat for a while , after cleaning the carb, it starts right away , then after it warms up it starts surging and then dies, ten i can restart it again and it surges and dies. any pointers, its a king craft 3500 gen. its huayi carb. thanks in advance
If it's a courage, I may be doing a video on that, it's from last year but I was going to edit something to put up. Probably blew the plastic governor gear, or cam gear, Kohler's are known for doing that!
@@EliminatorPerformance I just mlm put a new cam in it I check the govenor it looked fabulous I reinstalled everything now it's running wide open I need to know how to reset the govenor on kohler 20 courage thanks man in advance
@@robertyearian227 if you've had it apart, it's most likely the tappet that rests on the governor counterweight pin. You have to make sure it's lined up, it probably just slipped off when reinstalling the sump.
Can't find squat, might you be able to steer me in the right direction regarding a NIKKI carburetor? Web says all kinds of places but once I get there, there is no place to look up the numbers on this carb..there are 3 sets of numbers 2005371, C 120261 and 1331. I would really appreciate any help. I'm getting very frustrated. Partstree gave me one option, a gasket. Thank you very much
My advice would be to run the model number of the engine, find a parts diagram. Then go from there. Those numbers don't give me anything unfortunately.
I've never been able to find out, because I've never worked on 1 without that brass pilot jet! Aftermarket carb replacement from Amazon or eBay might be a thing to look into!
Google Walbro Craftsman and something should come up, you could go to a parts site like ereplacementparts.com and type in your engine model. Sometimes they list the Nikki and Walbros side by side.
Good vid, thanks. So I have had a nightmare past month. Went through buying 3 original Nikki carbs one after another. They all flooded and sent gas into oil bad. Yes, all 3 in a row factory orig used. That is with a gas shut off. Gas on and floods in 15 sec. Rebuilt all 3. Did many oil changes due to flood. Needless to say wasted alot of money and time. This is a ride mower 17.5 Briggs I/C. So, still not wanting to spend the 162 for orig at Briggs, I brought a China after market. Not thrilled because I stick to original quality control. Never did this on a carb so I did. Got that carb other day and well, no more flooding. Thrilled there. Pissed now engine surges. Never did that at all. Brings me to now and your vid. My carb looks like a Nikki inside and in vid. Course I forgot to see if it had idle jet lol. I will though. Mine has 2 screws on outside for idle and air/fuel mix. I ajust air/fuel and surge calms, but still there till high throttle up mostly. Idel is meh, but was worse before ajusted that screw. So I was not aware some of these carbs have no low ajust inside to drill.Just nice given my past month. Most likely the China carb won't, but will pull it to see. If it has one just do as you show and sounds like my case is what you vid? I was smart, but who knows how that will go. At the time I ordered China carb I also ordered a Walbro clone/after market I'm still waiting on. In hopes the guts is not plastic insert. I did see in photo on outside of carb it has some kind of brass screw that screws in straight down around main fuel inlet for hose. Most likely what you drilled?
Mine doesn't have a jet there, just a hole. No idea where it is. Almost identical nikki carby except my fuel inlet is straight no bend. 19.5hp bs john deere la105 single. Strange. Only i.d numbers are one being the number 7 on the side.
The reason this needs to be done on such a new engine is because these engines slowly lose compression through the Piston rings and the valve tolerances aren't as tight, so they pull in the same amount of air but less fuel. By slightly enlarging that pilot jet, you make it easier for the engine to pull in a bit more fuel!
What was brand and model was the replacement carb you mentioned in the video?
@@loganminto1589 walbro, but you need to pull up a parts diagram for your machine and then get the walbro equivalent. The part number should be in the parts diagram. It'll show 2 carbs, machines were built with either or, walbros are definitely better.
@@EliminatorPerformance so I hear that in 2012-2013 Briggs had a problem with the carbs on Polar force engines, I have a 1150 250CC on my 28" deluxe, it is surging, and will only run well with choke, on the low circuit it needs 3 notches, 1 notch for the high circuit rally smooths it out, but it basically does not surge in the high idle, just on low idle, a friend said to get the replacement carb update, thoughts?
@@EliminatorPerformance Si señor otro defecto es que se vencen las orejas donde aprietan los tornillos de la cuba y no aprieta el arito de goma de la caja del punzon ni el sello del laberinto Por tanto la gasolina se filtra . El modo de restaurar es con una lija 240 sobre un vidrio pasar varias veces la cuba hasta lograr que asiente de nuevo y tenga apriete.
Have a Tecumseh carb that does the same thing. Your thoughts? I also have a Honda hs520 snowblower that I put a new carb on that won’t start in the cold but if you bring it in the warm and choke it will start first pull 🤦🏻♂️
I've been fighting with a Nikki on a 17HP OHV Briggs Intek on a 12-year-old riding lawnmower for the past 48 hours, found your video, applied what you showed, and solved my problem! THANK YOU so much!!!
Awesome, this is why I make these vids! Thanks for watching, and consider hitting the subscribe button for more!
Ditto!
No adjustments. Running too lean. Thank you US govt pollution police
Finally a video that really shows some details, not just how to blow it out with carb cleaner.
I have been dealing with surging for 4 years. Tried 2 other carbs, and took it to the shop, but nothing worked. This trick worked right off the bat. Thank you.
When I was a little boy pushing a mower around the neighborhood (1970s),
I carried a small screwdriver in my pocket to adjust the carb when
it started hunting.
As a man, the EPA has removed the screw, and I must spend
hours taking the dang thang apart and DRILLING out the brass
Pilot Jet.
This is what we mean by "life was simpler then".
Best to all.
I remember when you could adjust the timing on a car just by loosening a nut on the distributor and twisting it until it sounded right! Then again . . . I have a 2006 Honda CRV with 220 K miles, and it's running great. Back in the day, that was unimaginable. Modernity is definitely a mixed bag. Some things have been gained, some things have been lost ;-) All the best!
YEAH! 🍻
I resemble all that statement!!!
Finally a great video showing how to fix the surging issues on those worthless carbs I've had hell with these for years thanks dude
Thanks for watching!
I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon to replace my Nikki carb. It ran terribly surging and popping. I fixed it with the help of this video - pretty amazing
Same here (hard to beat $10 for a new carb) a little different location for the low speed jet, still brass jet off to the side, took it to 0.0195” pretty much took away 90% of the surging. Going to take it to .021-.023” and see if I get it to 100%. The main jet is around 0.0375” , runs fine under a load before and after the adjustment.
I’ve got a craftsman lawn tractor with a Nikki carb that’s surges like hell, been fighting with it for a while, put a brand new carb on it and it still surges just as bad, so I’m going to try this
@@nodsibdid it work
@@manofculture4945 no, ended up just selling it for a little less than I would have with it running properly rather than put any more work into it
I have to thank you but for a different reason. I took my Nikki carb apart and the main jet fell out onto my work bench. I did not know at the time it was the main jet and I assumed it went somewhere in the main body (the metal body). Found your video and there it was plain as day in the plastic part that holds the float assembly. Thanks again your video was great.
Omg meeee too! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Okay, just finished up, she's running great now, here is my experience. I have the same engine and carb except it's an 11hp, my engine would surge and have zero ability to idle. I took the carb off 3 times opening up that jet all the way to .031" with no improvement at all. Upon further inspection, determining where the drilled pathways are routed visually and using gumout spray tube, found that this particular jet leads only to the larger of the two ports at the inlet side of the carburetor, it seems to be just a bowl vent port, not associated with the idle circuit. I found that the actual idle circuit port is on the opposite side of carb inside the bore (slot with a small hole next to it) behind the welch plug on the engine side of the throttle plate. This is the idle port and it draws fuel from another very small brass jet pressed deep into the hole at the end of the curved elongated channel shown at the lower left of frame at 2:16 in video . I covered the idle port with my pinky finger and sprayed gumout into the small brass idle circuit vent port at carb inlet and nothing came out this small brass jet. This is the jet that was plugged causing my machine to surge and have no idle at all, it seems to be about a .016" jet, I reamed it with an .018" drill bit making sure the drill bit reached all the way to the drilled channel that intersects the welch plug hole, tested in the same manner used earlier with gumout spray, it was now open and voila, success!
EP, Thanks a bunch for the video, it did lead me to the solution.
That is the right solution! Port was clogged here too, cleaned, and voila, no more playing with choke to smooth that hunping up and down. And this is 12,5hp ohv from rifing mover, that doesnt even have that port like in video, but your way is the right way, thanks from finland! 👌
Thanks man, I swear youtube has become my encyclopedia brittanica nowadays. I sure appreciate this video, I ended up since I couldnt see the size on the drill bits (older age) I went 4 sizes up from the one that would actually go into the jet. I worked perfectly, thank you sooo much!!!
This tip fixed my riding mower after I tried everything else. Great video and Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
had surging on my 2011 craftman LT1500, was driving me nuts tryna figure out what it was, did this mod and it runs phenomenally now, thank you man!
Nice video showing some really simple repair issue to eliminate hunting. Not sure who gave you the dislike must be someone that blew up their Ariens snowblower by not letting it warm up on low idle during super below zero temperatures.
No worries, the Eliminators give the thumbs up and make up for it!
Thanks for watching!
The best fix I've seen for these junky carbs, thanks bro
Thanks for watching!
High quality videos are much appreciated.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I’ll have to try this. That may explain why my lawn tractor runs perfect with the blades on at full throttle but surges when the blades are off
Completely solved my surging issue on my Craftsman mower, Thanks!
I am currently having problem with my Briggs & stratton Nikki carbie. Surging when on idle. You video is really helpful. I will try this out. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. I used a 0.029" drill and my lawn tractor ran like new afterwards, no surging or popping sounds anymore. Make sure to not buy the drill bits with the colored plastic collars as I broke two really easily just spinning the bit with my fingers. The bit broke off deep in the hole so I had to screw a screw into the brass part and pry the whole nozzle out and then remove the stuck bit and hammer the nozzle back in place.
Thanks for the video and help my BS 19.5 hp riding mower a lot. After drilled pilot hole to 0.1mm, all the surge issue gone for good and thanks for the explanation why need bigger hole. Will keep in mine when other push mower have same problem will be easy fixed.
Thanks for watching!
I bought a 2003 Craftsman LT 3000 with a 20hp Briggs. It had an knock off Nikki carb on it and would only get a 3rd of a the throttle before surging started. The smallest drill I had was .040 and I tried your trick. Engine now starts, runs, and cuts grass great. Thanks for the video.
Glad you're back up and running again, thanks for watching!
I just got a aftermarket (Chinese) Nikki for a Briggs 14.5 HP and had to drill the jet from Factory #75 / .022" to .039" or, a # 61 drill. Actually, it could use going to .040" / # 61. This thing was surging bad when first put on. I work on a lot of engines and never had to go .017"+ on the LS / pilot jet that far.As far as I am concerned, .017" larger is drastic. But, all is well now and the customer will be happy. Thanks for the video
Great video - you're the 20th video I watched (give or take), but I'm 90% sure this is the issue. Now I have to decide if I try the fix ... or just buy a new carb assembly. Great job, and great production quality on the video - thank you!
Tried this worked awesome on 2 surging generators. Thanks a lot for this video
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
A couple of months ago I started putting all Nikki carbs in acid dip bucket, that really helps and then into utra sonic cleaner for 15 minutes
Been having good luck with the surging problems with out drill
You can thank the EPA for making carburetors/engines run so incredibly lean, and without any ability to adjust the idle mixture, or high speed mixture in any way !
This problem starts to show up in engines at roughly two and a half years, to three years of service depending on use.
While everything is new, and tight, and running within the tight EPA restrictions, everything is just fine,
however,
once the engine begins to wear itself in,
( not worn out in any way )
and compression drops slightly, and vacuum drops off slightly, these engines begin to start starving for fuel !
( surging and popping through the carburetor )
Even replacement of the carburetor with a brand new carburetor will not correct this problem !
It is my belief that this is done intensionally, forcing the public to purchase a new unit entirely, or be facing a rather large service invoice !
Thank you for your valuable video !
Most people have no idea what to, or where to begin !
Hey thanks for watching quadsman! This method is tried and tested and works well!
@@EliminatorPerformance
Yes,
I agree with you !
We are a small engine repair facility, and a new equipment dealership, and see at least two or three of these customer units a week with the surging issue.
The problem is, the r & r time, not every unit requires the same size of micro-drillbit, so we sneak up on the size cautiously, so we don't destroy the carb.
Usually, the third time is the charm, and yep, .032-.034 is about the same average that we see as well.
That's after the second ultrasound cleaning !
So at the hourly rate, times two or three, it is still much less than a new mower, or engine !
Not to mention, the damage that we are seeing caused by ethenol fuels, and the lack of a quality fuel stabilizer depending on the seasonal piece of equipment that we are being presented with.
And it's much worse in smaller engines, string trimmers, leaf blowers, chainsaws, etc. !
Darn shame what is being done to the general public !
@@quadsman11 you got it right about the ethanol fuel!
And all this could be fixed by simply adding in a Air fuel mixture screw!
But they don't want people to adjust then due to emissions!
I say, make them the "tamper proof" ones and give us a tool like the Pac-Man or Spline screw to adjust it like a chainsaw!
@@EliminatorPerformance
You couldn't be more right !
But then then, the rest of my theory wouldn't hold any water !
They wouldn't be able to sell new tractors/mowers, tillers, pressure washers, etc.
And guys like us might actually stand half a chance of correcting a simple problem with a simple tool !
But wait !
That half turn or so to richen up the fuel mixture might make the air unbreathable !
One of the mfr. carbs we get in actually have a mixture adjustment screw, but it is essentially about worthless.
Very little affect, and not worth even being there.
I am tempted to do a little rogue off the record mods to one, when we aren't on customer equipment, and customer time, and see what I can accomplish.
We see so many of these every week, it is just such a shame !
Have four customer units sitting on deck waiting for us to get to tomorrow morning !
Or, maybe Tuesday, don't know about you, but we have been absolutely covered up with customer service work !
Have one right now, I'm ready to start a new TH-cam site on, crushing it out in the parking lot, and putting it out of my misery !
thanks for the vid, have this kinda carb on my rider which had an issue, I went to clean the carb and when I reassembled I hadn't noticed the small O ring by the inlet, so the carb pissed fuel everywhere when I put it back on. I had thought it was the main gasket ring that had failed. Found an O ring in my stash that fit and sealed it back up. Plastic doesn't belong in carb!
Thanks for watching!
Plastic doesn’t belong on/in the motor! It’s all too often now that I take something apart and there’s a plastic governor or cam gear. I’d rather keep buying old k series kohlers that were made to last.
I hate the plastic carbs to
I had a Nikki carb that had a really bad surge you can really hear it sucking air in it's a distinct type of surge. I kept cleaning the carburetor out and cleaning the carburetor out and it would not go away so finally I examined it thoroughly and realized that the Welch plug on the outside was completely missing it must have vibrated off put a new welch plug in and it purred like a kitten so that's another thing that's very rare but it can happen and it has happened the specifically on this Nikki carburetor
Yeah very unusual for that to happen, sometimes these aftermarket carbs aren't built to the same standards as an OEM carb would be.
I suppose if the adhesive they use let go, it could happen!
Usually if a welch plug comes loose, I take a punch and deform the metal around the area to help keep it in place.
Thanks for watching!
I’ll be damned...You nailed it thanks! Worked like a charm!
Thank you so much!!!! I have exactly same blower from client with leaking carb that I have to look at soon. Glad you posted this video!!!
Thanks for watching Doug!
Good info . Really enjoyed your work. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
Amen brother. I personally prefer the walbro carbs
Gotta make do with what we have sometimes, thanks for watching!
I was thinking about trying this with a Nikki Carburetor I replaced.
That is exactly what it was doing even after I rebuilt it. I didn't know
you could possibly save one of these precious things...LOL Am not
a big fan of them myself. Even the new one I put on will still caugh
some. May drill it out too if this works... LOL Great Video! 🍻
Did it with torch tip cleaners and YES it fixed the surge and lean running issue, thanks
Now this is what I have been searching for. I was about to make a big mistake and drill out the main jet. I'm working on an aftermarket carb that supposedly is after the Nikki. The low idle jet is in a different spot on this one. I had purchased my drill bits in advanced in hopes of another search to find a better video. I had attended a small engine course, but all the parts of a motor can't be accomplished in one semester.
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic job brother Jake 👏 thanks for sharing buddy 👍
My john deere d110 with 19.5 hp briggs surged at full throttle. I had to drill out the MAIN jet 2 sizes. Runs perfect now.
Thanks, this worked... I drilled out one of them Chinese carburetors ...🤙🏾
Of course, I have the not so popular Ruixing carb instead. Basically no information online about it.
Couldn't get the pin out so sprayed it out the best I could, although it looks like brand new inside still.
Try this for removing the pin th-cam.com/video/TD3egFO1ytU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Do you have a diagram that shows how each of the ports on the Nikki are interconnected?
I had the same issue with the same snowblower, Ruixing carb. I tried that trick with no luck. Put an afermarket carb on. Runs perfect.
Sometimes they are beyond fixing, unfortunately... Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video and explanation. I have a Briggs & Stratton 5500W generator with the Nikki-style carburetor. I've a few questions that I am hope you can help answer.
First: I rebuilt my older carburetor on this machine a couple of time. The large main bowl gasket is problematic in that it won't sit well in all the grooves (in fact, it feels like the gasket is not the right dimensions). Is there a trick to get it seated?
Second: I recently replaced the old carburetor with a brand new one and changed the plug to get things ready for our summer hurricane season. The engine ran well, and when we had a power outage, it also ran well through the first gasoline tank. Then, when the tank was refilled, the engine began to surge. I have difficulty believing the problem was the carburetor idle jet being too restricted (as you describe in the video) since this is a brand-new carburetor and the engine ran fine initially. Is there another root cause that I can check?
Lastly: Is there a differently designed carburetor that I can replace the Nikki with?
Thanks!
Kirk
I was on Google today trying to troubleshoot my sears (Briggs and Stratton) snowblower. Your video popped in to my recommendation and I am now eager to solve this problem...once and for all!!
Thanks kindly for the great info as I was getting frustrated trying to figure out if the idle jet could be replaced with a larger one...somehow!
I do own a micro drill set and will follow your procedures as you have shown.
I do have a question regarding the spring that sits between the bottom of the float bowl and the float assembly...does this spring keep the float assembly in place. I could not see it when you displayed the carb when it was apart.
Great video....and yes 👍
Some carbs have the spring, others don't. The issue is that if anyone removed the carb before you and lost it, they may not have it.
Ive been looking for a video like this for a long time .I have a wacker ride on roller.When u first start it it runs good . two minutes after running engine on high with a load the engine starts to surge and then it wants to die .I am going to rebuild the carb and try your idea with the low speed idle jet.Thank you
Anytime, just remember to start as low as you can and increase slow. When I say it's trial and error I mean it, if you go to big you have to replace the carb.
So spend the time like I did and you'll find the sweet spot!
Fixed my problem as well. Thank you!
U r the man keep the videos coming
Iv been working on mowers for over 40 years..every engine I junked, I kept the carbs. I have a bunch of walbros and old Niki carbs..just grabbed 10 more old style walbros from a local scrapper...the old carbs are bullet proof
What after market carb do you recommend for a Brute 29", Briggs and Stratton 13.5 - 1695576 snow blower? My son was using it a few years ago, left the gas in it for entire season while it didn't snow much. The gas broke down and froze. Everything in the carb was bent or broken. I DIY-er rebuilt it. It runs super rich. I'd like to get another carb and I really don't want another Nikki.
I need a set of those drill bits!!! where can I get some?? I tried the smith industrial supply, need part number?
Awesome video dude! Thank you very much
Thanks for watching!
This worked awesome!
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching!
Interesting, mine doesn't have that piece, the hole is empty. I couldn't quite tell, but does your carb have the air fuel mixture screw at the top next to the idle screw? I agree that it is a terrible carb design. What doesn't help is when I got this mower, there was no main jet. I have been 3D printing some and drilling them different sizes to try and figure out what is correct, but I haven't gotten it to run completely smooth. Currently I have it drilled out to a 62, which seems way too large because my bit kit only goes to 61 at the largest...
Hi, i have the exact same problem with my snow plower, I'm running idle with 3/4 choke on it. Is it possible to fit an non-Nikki carburetor on the same motor to have the iddle adjustment on it? like Honda carb?
The worst carbs ever!! Hey what set of bits is that? I like them! Got a part number!? Same for your "thumbwheel" thanks bro! Another great video
2 questions what’s part number to that carburetor and what size socket does the flywheel nut take do you know?
I pulled my carb off yesterday and cleaned and reinstalled, but still surging at idle under no load. Anything else I need to check before enlarging the idle jet hole?
I noticed you didn’t remove the Welch plug. Does the hypersonic cleaning remove debris in that channel as well?
Yes that's the benefits of ultrasonic cleaning them
Thank you!
Very useful indeed :)
Thank you so much, perfect tutorial, mower now purrs
Ariens has since gone to mostly LCT engines on their blowers, easier carbs to work on, cheaper to rebuild / replace, I bet this is why.
Thank you very much for taking the time to make video like this. It has been very helpful. I need to replace a Nikky carb and on the web there is so many aftermarket brands. Do you have a brand that you would recommend ? Thanks !
Just try to find one on Amazon with high reviews, and a high seller rating. So if you have an issue, they usually send you another and you keep the bad one for parts!
I have 22 Hp Briggs and Stratton engine with Nikki carburetor. I can start engine but RPM is very low and if I try to accelerate my engine would die. Any idea?
Thanks for the info..... Good video...
Just wondering Could you just leave it surging? Does that damage the engine? Great video as always, high quality content.
Less efficient in the long run possibly less power as well
I have a 10 hp ohv generator. Problem is that have to choke some to keep it running and also surges at times . I have taken apart the carb and cleaned it out twice, but do not have the brass low speed. Only have a the whole thats to the right of the high speed as you are looking at the base. Also the carb that is on the this does not have an o ring where the fuel comes in. The o ring is part of the rubber gasket and plastic has two small slots the fit into the hole to keep and align the plastic for the float. Any ideas on what else could try looking at.
Why would this run correctly new, but surge at a later date? The idle jet didnt change size. Your videos are very good. Great info.
The engines slowly lose compression in the Piston rings and the valve tolerances aren't as tight, so they pull in the same amount of air but less fuel. By slightly enlarging that pilot jet, you make it easier for the engine to pull in a bit more fuel!
Awesome, thank you for the great vids and info.
@@jamiesawyer5102 thanks for watching!
He told you over a period of time that piston wear look at video again
Did you check your welch plug? BaldEagle242's YT channel covers these carbutraitors, and he mentions the plug as a direct cause of surging.
Stupid question- I'm cleaning out our carb on a newly aquired chipper (Nikki) have you ever seen these o-ring gaskets swell overnight? I'm talking about the bowl gasket with all the attached areas. Thanks!
They're crap, I have bags and bags of them because sometimes they're formed bad right from the factory. NEVER buy aftermarket gaskets for this carb. Only OEM, and even still, they can have defects. Buy a couple and you'll always have a spare.
@@EliminatorPerformance thanks! Yeah you weren't kidding. Fortunately, after cleaning the carb completely, the chipper runs 100% after sitting for years (previous owner) Thank you X1000 for the great video!
Thanks for watching!
Will this work on a Briggs with the 17 hp. IC engine equipped with a Nikki carb
Yes as long as it has that pilot jet, I've heard that some don't have the jet so you can't fix those.
Good video. I spent time yesterday taking my nikki carb off and cleaning (Simplicity with Briggs1650) but didn't make a diff. I'll try this next, thanks. Does anyone know what would be a good replacement carb for this piece of junk?
Some walbro, I believe Taryl fixes all has a vid on it
Look at Taryls Nikki to Walbro exchange video
G'day mate, enjoyed the upload, quick question... Iv'e just opened two Nikki's up and theres no brass jet located where you drilled yours, both secondhand but I never thought to do a sound check of the motors running, I know one did flood if you left it and maybe the other one was surging anyway looking at rebuild kits and theres no replacement brass jet for the low end.
I've heard from some viewers that some of the nikki carbs don't have this hole. It's possible they changed the design, to eliminate this hole because it caused this issue. Others have said you can replace the main jet o-ring and it will solve the surging. Cheers.
I worked for a Toro dealer a few years ago. The newer Toro snowblowers with the Briggs engines would run really lean at low or high idle. Really bad surge, every single one of them.
Not enough fuel, they do that to get by emissions lol thanks for watching!
Does the float on Nikki carbs have a specific adjustment ??? Or does the float just need to make sure the needle will seat and stop fuel flow. Can you please tell me if there is any adjustment at all or is it hit and miss type of affare ??? Thanks fella.
They're plastic and can't be adjusted unless you heat them up, but usually on the Nikki Design they can either leak at the needle valve or the o ring on the other side of the plastic.
@@EliminatorPerformance Have you used heat to slightly bend the bottom needle holder part on the float itself ??? Did you use a heat gun or what did you use ??? From my experience the float was always parallel with gasket side of the carb body ??? What I have with mine is the float with a new spring needle goes all the way up to the ceiling of the plastic float holder. If my memory serves me correctly, that will cause a rich or flooding carburetor ??? Thanks a bunch too. VF
I believe I was able to use a 1/4" socket on the torque bolts that attaches the carburetor to the intake.
Very good information, thanks
So thank you and can't wait to try this on my mower 19hp Nikki carb Briggs crapsman ...yes I mean craps
Good job I did learn something new
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance I learned something too. I'm one of those idiots who tried reaming out the main jet and destroyed the carb! I was so exasperated I ordered an OEM Walbro at $110. It worked, but man . . . Now I have another Nikki on a 15.5 HP BS and the engine is surging. I'll let you all know if I can get it to smooth out by reaming out the low end jet.
Good and helpful video👌 but the walboro will always be better
I agree lol thanks for watching!
Subscribed👌
Hello. I have this carb on my Murray blower. My is also surging but i was thinking that it was because i dont have manual gas adjustment. The horizontal lever you have right next to carb I dont have. Dont you know why I dont have this lever on my blower? I am total noob. My first blower ever and I am new to servising my mover and blower
I have 20e114-0115e1 engine
How do you fix with same concern with the same nikki carb with no low speed idle jet ? Mine does the same thing but at idle . Pull choke out some and it fixes it Thanks Billy.
Thanks Billy
Replacement carb at that point
I have a new nikki carb on a 14hp briggs it is rated for 14-18hp and it surges and dies. Do you think this would fit it?
Should fit, make sure it's perfectly clean as well that'll be a good starting point
Your vedio are great
What is a better option for the Nikki 6? Brand/Model#?
Walbro, but you'd have to find a similar carb on a parts diagram.
Hello Eliminator Performance
I have a John Deere Snow Blower JD1130SE with a Briggs & Stratton 1550 Snow Series Max, Model - 21M214 with a Nikki Carb 793785 G02544 9X09 3A.
You said you found a replacement Walbro Carb on e-bay. What number is the replacement and would it work on my engine?
Thank you for your help.
Cheers
Willy
Question I bought a Nikki it has no low speed, how does that work? Also what is the other jet for that's under the plastic body? Not the one you adjusted but the other brass one .
High speed jet
I have a Nikki 697202 it does not have jet their can you tell where it is? Thanks
Did you try blowing snow with it? I've gone through this myself and although it ran great with no load it died almost immediately once I tried to blow snow with it. I never did solve that one.
Did not try blowing snow, usually I just engage the Auger and listen for changes in RPM/sputtering etc...
The engine had that slight sputter at 0.032" so I enlarged it to 0.034" and it solved the issue. It hasn't come back, so I'm assuming it's working fine.
Thanks for watching Tommy!
Do you know of a replacement carb that has adjustments and fits in place of the Nikki?
The Walbro carbs, Google your model number and look for a IPL (ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST) and on the parts diagram they usually show the Nikki on the right and the Walbro on the left, use that part number and you should be able to to swap it (the throttle hookup/bolt pattern is designed the same).
@@EliminatorPerformance awesome. I'll look into it.
@@EliminatorPerformance
I found replacement Walbro carb on e-bay, have to be careful, because of all the knock-offs. Make sure detailed description states Walbro it is a few bucks more than knock-offs, but worth it.
I have a Nikki carburetor that is giving me trouble. It is on a Snapper ST2046 riding mower. The Briggs & Stratton # is 594207
. I purchased it used, and when I first ran it, it was OK on choke, but it would die immediately when I went on rabbit. So, I cleaned the carburetor and rebuilt it, and now it will run on rabbit, but it will slowly die out. Do you have an suggestions?
Sounds like the pilot can't put enough fuel through to run it on idle, either that or have a look at your main jet.
Usually if a main jet is clogged, you need to run your engine with choke on.
@@EliminatorPerformance, thanks for the reply. I have a couple of questions. Where is the pilot? What can I do to fix it? If it is the main jet, is there anything specifically I need to do to clean it? I have used carb cleaner on it already.
@@storeemail1 find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner or get an aftermarket one on Amazon is probably the best option for you. Carb cleaning with carb cleaner won't be as effective.
hello, my generator that has hardly been used sat for a while , after cleaning the carb, it starts right away , then after it warms up it starts surging and then dies, ten i can restart it again and it surges and dies. any pointers, its a king craft 3500 gen. its huayi carb. thanks in advance
See if this helps, maybe this carburetor is similar; th-cam.com/video/Z6F38bSxSp4/w-d-xo.html
It is most likely pilot jet clogged up
Eliminator can you tell me how to adjust the governor on 20 hp kohler reving wide open
If it's a courage, I may be doing a video on that, it's from last year but I was going to edit something to put up.
Probably blew the plastic governor gear, or cam gear, Kohler's are known for doing that!
@@EliminatorPerformance I just mlm put a new cam in it I check the govenor it looked fabulous I reinstalled everything now it's running wide open I need to know how to reset the govenor on kohler 20 courage thanks man in advance
@@robertyearian227 if you've had it apart, it's most likely the tappet that rests on the governor counterweight pin. You have to make sure it's lined up, it probably just slipped off when reinstalling the sump.
@@EliminatorPerformance how do you do that plz
Can't find squat, might you be able to steer me in the right direction regarding a NIKKI carburetor? Web says all kinds of places but once I get there, there is no place to look up the numbers on this carb..there are 3 sets of numbers
2005371, C 120261 and
1331. I would really appreciate any help. I'm getting very frustrated. Partstree gave me one option, a gasket. Thank you very much
My advice would be to run the model number of the engine, find a parts diagram. Then go from there. Those numbers don't give me anything unfortunately.
You forgot an Amazon link to your micro drill set. Nice video.
Will add that, thanks for watching!
not available
I was gonna try this on my rider but my Nikki carb doesn't have the brass jet. It's just a deep hole where yours has the jet you drilled out.
Some of the aftermarket Nikki carbs don't have the Jets, I'm going to be doing a video comparison of them within the next few weeks
Eliminator Performance so my carb just has a hole. No jet there. How do you fix this issue on a carb without the jet
I've never been able to find out, because I've never worked on 1 without that brass pilot jet! Aftermarket carb replacement from Amazon or eBay might be a thing to look into!
Ihad a mtd lawn tractor with a nikki. I put it in the garbage can and bought a walbro. It has been fine ever since
Lol good move Jerome, these are always giving people trouble it seems, thanks for watching!
How do you get a walbro instead is there a conversion website somewhere? I'd love to know how to switch them to walbros.
Google Walbro Craftsman and something should come up, you could go to a parts site like ereplacementparts.com and type in your engine model.
Sometimes they list the Nikki and Walbros side by side.
It seems alot of small engines have surging. Why do they use undersize idle jets?
For emissions to cut fuel
The govt. Strikes again! So now we drive around using gas to fix these machines.
Good vid, thanks. So I have had a nightmare past month. Went through buying 3 original Nikki carbs one after another. They all flooded and sent gas into oil bad. Yes, all 3 in a row factory orig used. That is with a gas shut off. Gas on and floods in 15 sec. Rebuilt all 3. Did many oil changes due to flood. Needless to say wasted alot of money and time. This is a ride mower 17.5 Briggs I/C. So, still not wanting to spend the 162 for orig at Briggs, I brought a China after market. Not thrilled because I stick to original quality control. Never did this on a carb so I did. Got that carb other day and well, no more flooding. Thrilled there. Pissed now engine surges. Never did that at all. Brings me to now and your vid. My carb looks like a Nikki inside and in vid. Course I forgot to see if it had idle jet lol. I will though. Mine has 2 screws on outside for idle and air/fuel mix. I ajust air/fuel and surge calms, but still there till high throttle up mostly. Idel is meh, but was worse before ajusted that screw. So I was not aware some of these carbs have no low ajust inside to drill.Just nice given my past month. Most likely the China carb won't, but will pull it to see. If it has one just do as you show and sounds like my case is what you vid? I was smart, but who knows how that will go. At the time I ordered China carb I also ordered a Walbro clone/after market I'm still waiting on. In hopes the guts is not plastic insert. I did see in photo on outside of carb it has some kind of brass screw that screws in straight down around main fuel inlet for hose. Most likely what you drilled?
I have always hated a nikki carburetor. I need to know where is the slow jet on a walbro carb?
I believe the pilot jet is what we oversized here, that controls idle. Then the main is the one in the plastic tube.
The carb is on a 15.5 Poland riding mower
Mine doesn't have a jet there, just a hole. No idea where it is. Almost identical nikki carby except my fuel inlet is straight no bend. 19.5hp bs john deere la105 single.
Strange.
Only i.d numbers are one being the number 7 on the side.
good job bud