Thanks so much for this video... excellent. I completed this job today pausing at each step to follow the next segment of your video. Particularly liked the section on lowering the old rack slowly on a jack so you can remove the wiring loom & electrical connectors without damage. Picked up a steering rack in a breakers for €100 and as I did the job myself the total cost of the job to replace the steering rack was just €100.
Thanks for the great PDF and video! I've had an intermittent issue corrupting the drive train can-bus, which was throwing a shit load of faults, mainly in the ABS module. Tracked it down to the J500. Should have started de-plugging modules faster, would have had a better result chasing the problem but since it was so intermittent, it only started being a constant problem the last 2 days... Dropping the subframe tomorrow, vids like these are a great help!
Well detailed THANK you for posting Found my NEW replacement rack for £450 Bargain Will take me a full day and many cuppas to complete Use "steering rack clips" on the boot instead of plastic ties These can be left loose and tightened later when steering is corrected Once again BIG thank you
Thank you Sir, great video, very clear helped me hugely with my daughters 2008 B6 Passat 👍 The hardest bit on this was unplugging the steering rack. My advice take your time.
Fits perfectly rear-facing in our truck, which has a slightly smaller back seats. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx6_FKRYB2ClSPRyjcd8HptiCS3EiQoNX4 Feels as comfy and plush as our Graco Contender carseat
@@wawayltd yes I used you're pdf creator A excellent service thank you.., only difference was on my old 2008 Passat the electrical connectors were slightly different.. probably the difference between gen 1/2 and 3 racks but everything else was spot on ...also to reset the steering angle sensor and TC/abs you can do the lock to lock trick ( start car hold for 30s at each steering extremity and repeat twice whilst stationary ) turn off the car & remove key / fob ..restart it and then whilst driving slowly also go lock to lock the steering will feel heavy and strange but all of a sudden you'll feel the power steering work correctly.. Resets the steering angle /abs/TC fault every time done it on lots of VW/Audi's after the battery has run down .. it's also how I reset mine ( didn't need to get vcds cable out )after following you're excellent instructions.
I have to do mine on my Mk7 GTI and I know it’ll be slightly different, but this video gave the confidence I needed. I was dreading having to spend even more money and rent a bay at the shop I work at, now I know I can do it in my driveway in a couple hours
Thanks for the advice on the cable tie around the boot. My garage changed my rack for me yesterday and after checking it today the boot was all twisted and out of shape, wouldn’t have lasted 5 minutes if I didn’t straighten it up and replace the tie myself
Great video, thanks for sharing. Can you comment on why you had to change the rack, was it due to play in the rack itself causing knocking while driving? I have a Passat B6 and I am pretty sure it is the rack causing all the sadness up the front
I know this video is a few years old, but will this method work on a b7 2013 passat? Its not an electric rack and pinion. All the other methods i see involve removing an axel or disconnecting the catalytic convertor. It just seems so much easier to drop the subframe.
Hello. Maybe you can give me some advice here, I lost power-steering last week all of a sudden (Ibiza 1.4TDI ST 2016), I started the car and immediatly turned the weels all the way, all of a sudden I got ABS errors and whatnot and lost the "help from the motor" to turn, I stopped the car immediatly, 20 seconds later I started the car again and all was fine, no errors and power-steering working, but I feel somethin is about to go very wrong very soon, if I turn the weel completely I feel some "struggle" from the weel, like something is losing and gaining power evert second. Am I imagining things, maybe the fact I turned the weel all the way as soon as the car started caused some error and the power-steering motor stopped? Are there any oil tank that needs to be refilled maybe? I'm not even sure if my steering weel is full electric or if it has hidraulics and maybe the direction liquid is below the limit... Thanks.
I'm not sure what kind of power steering you have. If it's hydraulic, you should have expansion tank for the fluid and also a pump powered by auxiliary belt. If it's electric, you shouldn't have any of that, it's pretty neat. Perhaps, what you had was some temporary glitch together with that sudden start. If that happened to me, I wouldn't panic, just see how it goes, if something doesn't work right or throws any errors. But! I'm not a mechanic, so it's just my amateur advice.
Awesome, very concise and easy to follow instructions 👍👍👍 have not done it yet - my car had a dull knock on bumps and uneven road - Top mount, Rose joint and Track-rod end all suggested - and have been replaced where necessary - I took the rose joint /steering rack boot off and you can physically move the rack up and down inside its housing - must be .5 -.75mm of play easily - steering is notch’y when operating and throughout full lock. Would be great of it had an adjuster somewhere 🤨🤨🤨🤣😬🤔
I think it has adjustment, there are 2 bolts that suppose to tighten it. They were so tight, I wasn't sure if they were the right ones either 🤪, but as I know that would be only temporary solution as the teeth inside rack don't wear out evenly, therefore I didn't bother. Thanks for nice words, glad if it helps 👍
Danke es hat mir sehr geholfen. Nur eine kleine Anmerkung die Kabel gleich oben von der Batterie abklemmen und gleich beim absenken mitziehen dann geht auch nichts kaputt 👍😀
Excellent Video. Very Encouraging. These units are expensive...any ideas if they can be rebuilt..mine makes a wobbling noise when the engine is idling. Any ideas?
Normally they have 2 bolts that can tighten it up. However, it doesn't wear out evenly along whole length - middle suffers more, so tightening doesn't really solve the problem. This rack in the video - I bought it refurbished, new one costs a fortune. When I took my used to local rack re-builders, they said that they don't want it.
Hi! good tutorial very helpfull. I am going to do the same because of a noise when steering wheel even when the car is shut down. My question is: why do we do SAS since you just removed the lower part of the column and the sensor isa bit higher towards the steering wheel?
The new rack normally comes in a straight position. There is only one way you can fit the shaft from the steering column, so there is no tuning you can do while fitting a new rack. However, after fitting it all, you definitely need to do wheel alignment.
Thankyou for this helpful video, Did you align the subframe back to its original position? I will probably mark the outline of the subframe onto the body before removing it or buy the alignment pins
What happens if the steering is not on a secured position? I took my car to a shop and the steering angle sensor can’t be set and I realized they didn’t lock the steering wheel. So I am wondering how I can fix it
@@wawayltdbasically the steering steering wheel was not secured or locked as you mention on 3:45min and my steering angle can’t be set it isn’t showing the degrees all this happened after the shop replaced the rack
If it moves slightly, it shouldn't be a problem. Because of the shape of the shaft, there's only one way you can fit it, unless you do the full turn of steering wheel. Could that be position sensor issue or software of the scanner?
Great video my friend! I have a 2017 vw golf gti and it has the red steering wheel light on the dashboard, I was told that I need to change the steering rack. I get a code saying " Lost communication with steering column control module ".
Sorry Zeyad, I don't know how to help you there. I think it could be just electronics / communication / wiring issue, but I don't have experience with that. Maybe people who told you about whole new rack have reasons to believe that rack is faulty... Accordingly to what I found about that code, there should be nothing much to do with the rack, unless they found some real mechanical issue... I might be wrong, but here is a good article explaining this issue: www.obd-codes.com/u0212
Your video never gets old reason for this is that your passion and dedication to this job are so inspiring thanks for sharing your experience. My question for I have 2015 Audi q7 that needs steering rack & pinion mounting bush replaced, so should I have to remove subframe to replace it? Your response is very appreciated.
Thankyou for another great video! Can I ask what symptoms you were getting to want to replace? I'm getting no lights on dash but steering is becoming harder.
I had worn out rack teeth. Steering was knocking when turned from side to side. And on my other car, inner bit of rack was loose. It wasn't possible to do alignment.
Mil gracias por su explicación. Una consulta: Tengo un Passat 2.0 110cv (B6) de 2010, con cremallera eléctrica. Llevo unos días notando como un chirrído al llegar a los extremos de giro del volante, como falta de lubricación. Lo he llevado al taller y lo hemos montado en el elevador y detectado que viene de la cremallera y no de ninguna otra pieza. Según me dice el mecánico, se ha podido secar la lubricación y que esta cremallera no se puede engrasar, por lo que tocará esperar hasta que se parta. ¿Sabría decirme si es cierto o por lo contrario, dónde se engrasa y qué tipo de grasa? ¿Ha tenido algún caso similar para saber cuál fue la solución? Gracias desde Sevilla.
The inner bit can get loose, gets play, can't get alignment right, also when they wear out teeth you get knocking when turning steering wheel left and right.
@@wawayltddoes that noise happen especially when sitting in park and moving the steering wheel from left to right. I have obvious knocking when doing so. My cv axles are bad and are being replaced already, but from my general knowledge bad cv’s are not going to make any clunking/knocking sounds just from sw in park. I also notice that the steering wheel will become more stiff the longer I drive, then as soon as the car is shut off and turned back on the steering feels like as a feather again. There’s obvious things that still need to be done with suspension like sway bar replacements and struts but due to the electrical components of the steering rack it leads me to believe that’s y it gets more stiff with a longer drive. If you or anyone has had the same issue I’d love some help. 2008 eos 2.0tfsi by the way.
Also side note, car(2008 2.0tfsi) clear of any codes/faults whatsoever. Love this engine and dsg transmission, never had any problems but everything else in between that’s where and why any non mechanically inclined person should never own the majority of Volkswagens. I love mine dearly and have been through it with her but just like a good woman that stays by your side, it doesn’t mean she ain’t gonna find something to make u mad for no reason.😂
Nice video , when finished installing a simple way to calibrate the steering angle sensor would be to lock the steering wheel all the way left until you hear a beep then all the way to the right and hold . you should be calibrated afther this and a rest would not be needed ,
Strange I have a 2015 A3 8v did the same with out issues . Normally I clear all faults codes or disconnect battery for a bit . The I am able to calibrate end stops of steering angle sensor .
Maybe I should've held a steering wheel longer at the end point to hear a "beep"? I think I was holding a few seconds, but I'm not sure how long. Anyway, thanks for the advice 👍 Next time, I'll try better.
Hi I got a new steering rack put into my VW Passat b6 1.9 TDI 2008. It's alot better but the steering is very heavy almost like no power steering. The angle sensor wasn't reset and there are no error lights on dash. Does the angle sensor still.have to be reset and if so will the steering feel a bit lighter then?
Before I had my angle sensor reset, steering was still light, but it felt different - when you go from lock to lock it bumped heavy at the end, didn't have that cushiony feeling at the end. Also as you come out of the turning it didn't try to return to straight position as quick. All steering angle related systems gave error, ABS, ESP, tyre pressure monitoring system, steering itself. It didn't feel heavy, but we have very different steering systems, I have electric, but in 2008 B6, I believe there's still hydraulic. I would recommend to reset angle sensor (it needs to be done anyway) and see if it helps.
how did you set the characteristic curve? i have converted from gen 1 to gen 2 now i don't know which characteristic curve and how to set it, can you help me?
When did your steering knock, when you go over bumps or when turning as i have an annoying knowing sound coming from my car and few people said maybe my rack needs changing, is there a way i can send you the video of the noise so i can know if you had similar noise
Hi, That particular rack gave knock sound when I was turning steering wheel quickly left-right-left. Worn out teeth on that rack. Other signs of bad rack, on my Sharan - vibration on high speed, wheel alignment couldn't be done (straight out of the garage and it's off again), and finally it had a play close to inner joint of tie rod, but it wasn't inner joint. Also bad rack can be knocking while going over the bumps too, like on my friends Meriva. He also had obvious play if you shake tie rod. I believe any reasonable mechanic should be able to tell where is the problem of your car. Unfortunately, in real life I'm not as clever as I pretend to be in my videos 😏 , I don't think I will be able to diagnose your car by listening to the sound of the video, sorry.
I'm just trying to lower the subrame to get to my power steering pump or rack do I still have to lower rack and reset stering angle sensor cus I just need to change pump that u plug into under the tray, this is on a seat leon cupra any help pls
Sorry Paul, I don't have much experience with hydraulic power steering. I think, if it's just a pump, it depends on location. If you didn't have to disconnect sensors or actual steering, you shouldn't have to reset SAS.
Hello. I can't hear the English in the video, so let me ask you a question in text. Were you able to distinguish whether the problem was on the steering column side or the tie rod side? Could you please tell me?
Hello. In this case teeth on the rack had play and there was knocking sound when turning left or right. In my other car I replaced rack because it had a play inside rack and it was impossible to do wheel alignment.
Friendly general tip: Use four chords / ropes on the subframe before taking the bolts out, so that if it falls off the jack it only falls a few inches. It only takes a few minutes to attach them and it means the wiring harnesses and pipes (where applicable - not in this case) don't get damaged. I always do this - after my first subframe suddenly fell to the floor unexpectedly (Renault Scenic Mk 1). I now know how long to set the ropes so that I can often do the replacement job with the subframe still suspended by the ropes. With the Scenic, I even put the full weight of the gearbox on the subframe whilst it's hanging by the ropes! I don't know about this particular (steering rack) job as I haven't done it yet. Anyway, hopefully this tip - and the one by someone else here not to hammer the trackrod ends because it can wreck the torque sensor in the rack - will make this a stress-free job! Thanks for the helpful video. 🙂
General question, how did you come to the conclusion that you need a new steering rack ? Assist motor dead ? Or is it steering angle problems even after alignment ?
@@wawayltd im asking because my 2006 Golf 5 SDI Trendline also has problem with steering, 4 brand new tires, 2 alignments at same shop, first he did FR adjust then FL adjust, but even after 200km, driving at highway speed car pulls right, steering wheel must be held left a little (like 11 oclock) to compensate and drive straight. I read through forums and I think it will help to first try removing the steering wheel and put it back on one tooth to the right to "align" it...
Very good video. Excellent description of what you were doing. Full marks! Have you ever had the rack from the Leon which has the angle sensor included? Not on the steering column? Is there much difference do you know. I have a mechanical failure code and am wary of just tearing it down.
Just a major warning here on 10:20 ... the reason I'm looking at this video to replace my steering rack is because I've damaged the torque sensor [integral to the rack] by hitting the track rod ends with a hammer to free them ! The torque sensor in the VAG rack is very sensitive to impact damage, so ensure you do NOT use a hammer to split these joints.
Thank you very much for that warning. Wow - what a well hidden and bad trap. I have a great joint splitter but it still creates quite a bang when the taper breaks free - I don't know whether that would damage the sensor. I guess I could leave the nut on just slightly loosened to minimize the bang. Or disconnect the track rods at the adjuster. That nearly always requires a MAPP torch for me, but at least it frees them off in case adjustments are needed. Thanks again.
@@JSB2500 I would hope that a ball joint splitter would create less of an impact [pardon the pun] and be OK... but bear in mind that the torque sensor will succomb to a hammer hit on the end of the track rod... so be real gentle with everything down there... and good luck :)
zdravo imam problem na passat b6 2.0 tdi letva volana je elektricna ali ima malo luft lupa kad zakrecem volan onako na kratko ali lupa spone i sve novo vjerovatno letva lupa ali nemam ni jednu gresku na instrument tabli i dosta se teze okrece volan dok kod mog tate isti auto ide lagano i nista ne lupa vjerovatno je kod njega promjenjena kod mene je original auto ima 350.000tkm pomozite u cemu bi mogo biti problem hvala Lp
Hello,very great video. But I have a question ,it`s possible to upgrade this steering rack (probabily gen 2 1K1909144) to gen 3 ,ex 1K0909144 ? Thanks !
I have a seat Alhambra se lux 2.0tdi 170bhp 6dpeed DSG 2012 (62) milage 130k I have changed Wishbones/ball joints/inner tie rod and track rod ends and all 3 engine mounts ,NEW DMF,Dsg oil has been changed All OEM or lemforder parts Wheel alignment has been done brand new Micheline cross climate tyers . Problem begins when I'm on a motor way and go over 65mph the steering has a vibration and at the same time the steering wheel moves side to side a little but when I'm on the motor way and if there's a slight bend and I turn the steering whilst doing 70mph the shaking will fade away but soon as I go back on a straight it shakes again. Thank you
I had same symptoms when my Sharan's steering rack was bad and I had to replace it. It's expensive part, so before you invest in it - please check either with mechanic (they can shake it to see if there's a play in actual rack), or check it yourself.
I just try to put subframe back so it matches it's own marks, you know where it was connected it stays cleaner. Not quite sure yet what locating pins are.. You need wheel alignment after this anyway.
The engine is not sitting on the subframe, there are 2 big engine mounts that hold the engine. Bottom pendulum support is just preventing from engine swinging back to front.
Great job there mate. I've got a 2009 golf Mk6 diesel with 89k on the clock and I've noticed that the steering wheel is harder than it used to be. Most annoyingly this happens intermittently, one day it would be harder to turn then other day it would go back to normal. I've been told is to do with the power steering motor on the rack that it might be on its way out. What do u think?! Thanks
@@wawayltd no, its eletric, a couple months ago i had to replace the rack. My mecanic told me that the to change to a new one i need to replace the wiring and it would cost lots of money so he put an identical one and its a gen1. So i put a time bomb on my car :/ Do you know if gen1 is directly compatible with gen 2 ? I know if im going gen 3 i need to spend a a lot of money
@@wawayltd i already did that but no answer. I think im going try to call audi. I bought my car in perfect condition only with 93000km one owner and the KM's are real. And i would like to solve the problem by trying save some money either.
You need to find exactly what part is making a noise, then you will know what part is faulty or, maybe, installed incorrectly. Unfortunately, I can't help you like that - it needs to be examined.
@@wawayltd ok fair enough. I'm trying to find mysterious clunk over bumpy roads. Suspension and all the bushes checked and replaced. Im suspecting rack
When I replaced rack on my Sharan - it had an internal play, vibration on speed, was not possible to do wheel alignment. On this seat it got loose on those teeth and had knocking sound when turning left-right. There are some bolts that can be tightened, but that's temporary solution as wear is not even.
You can't remove rack without removing the subframe. Your video looks scary, I'm not that professional to tell what's causing it. Did you try to scan it?
@@wawayltd Yes I did Nothing came out. Is the rack, definitely. I had some play before, than came the light in the dash board and after the witchcraft :))
That is because I created completely new version of WheelsAndMotors website and didn't have time to re-upload all contents. I have done this one, please try this link: www.wheelsandmotors.com/manual/60edf9fd8bdf4700046d5276
“Simply remove the steering rack” 😂. Brilliant video. Thanks for your help and looking forward to tackling this next week 😢
Easy 😎 👍
Excellent video! You should be an auto shop teacher. You make all the steps perfectly clear. Thank you.
I'm not as clever as I pretend to be in my videos 😉
@@wawayltd You're overestimating other people's talents! You're humble, but excellent. Thank you 🙏
There's no excellence, just a bit of patience.
Thanks so much for this video... excellent. I completed this job today pausing at each step to follow the next segment of your video. Particularly liked the section on lowering the old rack slowly on a jack so you can remove the wiring loom & electrical connectors without damage. Picked up a steering rack in a breakers for €100 and as I did the job myself the total cost of the job to replace the steering rack was just €100.
Wow! That's a bargain. Racks are quite expensive.
Thanks for the great PDF and video! I've had an intermittent issue corrupting the drive train can-bus, which was throwing a shit load of faults, mainly in the ABS module. Tracked it down to the J500. Should have started de-plugging modules faster, would have had a better result chasing the problem but since it was so intermittent, it only started being a constant problem the last 2 days... Dropping the subframe tomorrow, vids like these are a great help!
Thanks! Hope it helps 👍
Very good explanation! You are a great teacher. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks 😎👍
Well detailed THANK you for posting Found my NEW replacement rack for £450 Bargain Will take me a full day and many cuppas to complete
Use "steering rack clips" on the boot instead of plastic ties These can be left loose and tightened later when steering is corrected Once again BIG thank you
You're welcome 👍 I hope you'll have fun replacing it 😉
Thanks!
Thank you, Bob! 👍
Thank you Sir, great video, very clear helped me hugely with my daughters 2008 B6 Passat 👍 The hardest bit on this was unplugging the steering rack. My advice take your time.
You're very welcome, Garry 😎👍
Thanks so much for this video and your knowledge. I just removed my steering rack last night with this video. Very good and detailed instructions.👍
You're welcome 👍
how hard would you say this ?
It's lot of fun 😉 It all depends how "familiar" to your car you want to get. It's not as quick as in the video, video is edited.
@@wawayltd thanks for the response and. kmsl sounds interesting how long did this job take you
With the filming it took me whole day.
Seriously well detailed and helpful video. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Glad if it helps 👍
Fits perfectly rear-facing in our truck, which has a slightly smaller back seats. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx6_FKRYB2ClSPRyjcd8HptiCS3EiQoNX4 Feels as comfy and plush as our Graco Contender carseat
Thank you for your video. Am i right in saying, on this model, you can remove anti roll bar bush without dropping the sub frame?
Thanks! I wish I could answer your question, but I don't remember the setup by now, it's been some time since I have done it, sorry.
Thank you I did this job yesterday following you're instructions .. many thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You're welcome 👍
Did you use instructions from the website too?
@@wawayltd yes I used you're pdf creator A excellent service thank you.., only difference was on my old 2008 Passat the electrical connectors were slightly different.. probably the difference between gen 1/2 and 3 racks but everything else was spot on ...also to reset the steering angle sensor and TC/abs you can do the lock to lock trick ( start car hold for 30s at each steering extremity and repeat twice whilst stationary ) turn off the car & remove key / fob ..restart it and then whilst driving slowly also go lock to lock the steering will feel heavy and strange but all of a sudden you'll feel the power steering work correctly.. Resets the steering angle /abs/TC fault every time done it on lots of VW/Audi's after the battery has run down .. it's also how I reset mine ( didn't need to get vcds cable out )after following you're excellent instructions.
Wow, I wish I've read your comment before I paid garage to reset my steering angle sensor!
Very good Job done. I have to change my on my GTI make 5
I hope I will do mine next week
If the weather is right. Because the MOT run out in December.
Easy 😎 👍
I have to do mine on my Mk7 GTI and I know it’ll be slightly different, but this video gave the confidence I needed. I was dreading having to spend even more money and rent a bay at the shop I work at, now I know I can do it in my driveway in a couple hours
Yeah, it's doable. However, I think it might take a bit longer that couple hours. It depends. I'm slow.
@wawayltd I think it will take about Day to do so I will let you know.
You can do it 👍
Thanks master today 2/12/22 just did my Jetta I really appreciate it nice video
You're welcome 👍
hey how did you figure yours was bad if you don’t mind me asking ?
It was making knocking noise. On my other VW, it had a play inside rack and it was impossible to do a wheel alignment.
Thanks for the advice on the cable tie around the boot. My garage changed my rack for me yesterday and after checking it today the boot was all twisted and out of shape, wouldn’t have lasted 5 minutes if I didn’t straighten it up and replace the tie myself
Glad it helped 😊👍 Some garages don't seem to care much..
Nice to see this watched your videos with full clutch n fly wheel on your taxi excellent job bro keep up the great content
Thanks, I'll try my best! 👍
WheelsAndMotors your very welcome I’ve got this Same job it’s on a 2006 golf plus
Should be pretty similar
Great video, thanks for sharing. Can you comment on why you had to change the rack, was it due to play in the rack itself causing knocking while driving? I have a Passat B6 and I am pretty sure it is the rack causing all the sadness up the front
Thanks 👍 Yeah, it developed a play in rack, and it was impossible to do a wheel alignment.
I know this video is a few years old, but will this method work on a b7 2013 passat? Its not an electric rack and pinion. All the other methods i see involve removing an axel or disconnecting the catalytic convertor. It just seems so much easier to drop the subframe.
I think it should. The set up was the same - this 2012 Seat Alteo and my 2012 VW Sharan.
Good job mate where is your garage
Thanks 👍
It's not my garage...
Thank you very much, excellent video and description.
Thanks Ross 👍
Hello. Maybe you can give me some advice here, I lost power-steering last week all of a sudden (Ibiza 1.4TDI ST 2016), I started the car and immediatly turned the weels all the way, all of a sudden I got ABS errors and whatnot and lost the "help from the motor" to turn, I stopped the car immediatly, 20 seconds later I started the car again and all was fine, no errors and power-steering working, but I feel somethin is about to go very wrong very soon, if I turn the weel completely I feel some "struggle" from the weel, like something is losing and gaining power evert second. Am I imagining things, maybe the fact I turned the weel all the way as soon as the car started caused some error and the power-steering motor stopped? Are there any oil tank that needs to be refilled maybe? I'm not even sure if my steering weel is full electric or if it has hidraulics and maybe the direction liquid is below the limit... Thanks.
I'm not sure what kind of power steering you have. If it's hydraulic, you should have expansion tank for the fluid and also a pump powered by auxiliary belt. If it's electric, you shouldn't have any of that, it's pretty neat.
Perhaps, what you had was some temporary glitch together with that sudden start. If that happened to me, I wouldn't panic, just see how it goes, if something doesn't work right or throws any errors. But! I'm not a mechanic, so it's just my amateur advice.
Very much informative and easy technique with good advice ✅
Thanks 👍
Awesome, very concise and easy to follow instructions 👍👍👍 have not done it yet - my car had a dull knock on bumps and uneven road - Top mount, Rose joint and Track-rod end all suggested - and have been replaced where necessary - I took the rose joint /steering rack boot off and you can physically move the rack up and down inside its housing - must be .5 -.75mm of play easily - steering is notch’y when operating and throughout full lock.
Would be great of it had an adjuster somewhere 🤨🤨🤨🤣😬🤔
I think it has adjustment, there are 2 bolts that suppose to tighten it. They were so tight, I wasn't sure if they were the right ones either 🤪, but as I know that would be only temporary solution as the teeth inside rack don't wear out evenly, therefore I didn't bother.
Thanks for nice words, glad if it helps 👍
Danke es hat mir sehr geholfen. Nur eine kleine Anmerkung die Kabel gleich oben von der Batterie abklemmen und gleich beim absenken mitziehen dann geht auch nichts kaputt 👍😀
Спасибоб я это учту в будущем 😉👍
Excellent Video. Very Encouraging. These units are expensive...any ideas if they can be rebuilt..mine makes a wobbling noise when the engine is idling. Any ideas?
Normally they have 2 bolts that can tighten it up. However, it doesn't wear out evenly along whole length - middle suffers more, so tightening doesn't really solve the problem.
This rack in the video - I bought it refurbished, new one costs a fortune.
When I took my used to local rack re-builders, they said that they don't want it.
Thank you for this video, going to attempt on the weekend 👍🏻
You can do it 👍
Hi! good tutorial very helpfull. I am going to do the same because of a noise when steering wheel even when the car is shut down. My question is: why do we do SAS since you just removed the lower part of the column and the sensor isa bit higher towards the steering wheel?
Hello, thanks. I don't know, but it SAS needs to be reset when you fit new rack.
Thank you verry much for your video. Was a great help for me. Very good video and very well detailed, with excellent explanations. Keep it like this
Thanks Tibi, I'll do my best 😊
Nice video, but how did you count 0 possition of the new steering rack?
The new rack normally comes in a straight position. There is only one way you can fit the shaft from the steering column, so there is no tuning you can do while fitting a new rack. However, after fitting it all, you definitely need to do wheel alignment.
Thankyou for this helpful video, Did you align the subframe back to its original position? I will probably mark the outline of the subframe onto the body before removing it or buy the alignment pins
That's great, but I would still recommend checking the alignment with a tyre shop.
of course, i want to know if you align the subframe to the original position as well @@wawayltd
@alexhawes6690 you try to put it to the same position. The alignment that matters is steering. Subframe can be roughly the same position as before.
@@wawayltd Thankyou for your help
What happens if the steering is not on a secured position? I took my car to a shop and the steering angle sensor can’t be set and I realized they didn’t lock the steering wheel. So I am wondering how I can fix it
Sorry David, I don't quite understand. What do you mean by fixed position?
@@wawayltdbasically the steering steering wheel was not secured or locked as you mention on 3:45min and my steering angle can’t be set it isn’t showing the degrees all this happened after the shop replaced the rack
If it moves slightly, it shouldn't be a problem. Because of the shape of the shaft, there's only one way you can fit it, unless you do the full turn of steering wheel.
Could that be position sensor issue or software of the scanner?
Real complete subframe removal video ever in internet
Wow. Thanks 😊
@@wawayltd Dropped my subframe and installed bushings with no expensive special tool, really need a looot of patience and effort...
Cars are simple, you're right - lot of patience + effort.
Well done. Going to attempt myself to change it.
You can do it 👍
Thank you sir for the nice explanation, it really helped me in my retrofit.
You're welcome 👍
Great video my friend! I have a 2017 vw golf gti and it has the red steering wheel light on the dashboard, I was told that I need to change the steering rack. I get a code saying " Lost communication with steering column control module ".
Sorry Zeyad, I don't know how to help you there. I think it could be just electronics / communication / wiring issue, but I don't have experience with that. Maybe people who told you about whole new rack have reasons to believe that rack is faulty...
Accordingly to what I found about that code, there should be nothing much to do with the rack, unless they found some real mechanical issue... I might be wrong, but here is a good article explaining this issue:
www.obd-codes.com/u0212
@@wawayltd Thank you so much for your reply
Your video never gets old reason for this is that your passion and dedication to this job are so inspiring thanks for sharing your experience. My question for I have 2015 Audi q7 that needs steering rack & pinion mounting bush replaced, so should I have to remove subframe to replace it? Your response is very appreciated.
Thank you!
I don't have any experience with Q7, but normally steering rack sits on the subframe, so the subframe would need to be removed.
@@wawayltd thank you for replying to my question.
Thankyou for another great video! Can I ask what symptoms you were getting to want to replace? I'm getting no lights on dash but steering is becoming harder.
I had worn out rack teeth. Steering was knocking when turned from side to side. And on my other car, inner bit of rack was loose. It wasn't possible to do alignment.
thanks for ur hard work man this is awsome
Thanks 😊👍
I respect your video. Do you think it was neccessary to drop the subframe?
Thanks 👍Yes. I don't see any other way to take steering rack out.
Mil gracias por su explicación.
Una consulta:
Tengo un Passat 2.0 110cv (B6) de 2010, con cremallera eléctrica.
Llevo unos días notando como un chirrído al llegar a los extremos de giro del volante, como falta de lubricación.
Lo he llevado al taller y lo hemos montado en el elevador y detectado que viene de la cremallera y no de ninguna otra pieza.
Según me dice el mecánico, se ha podido secar la lubricación y que esta cremallera no se puede engrasar, por lo que tocará esperar hasta que se parta.
¿Sabría decirme si es cierto o por lo contrario, dónde se engrasa y qué tipo de grasa?
¿Ha tenido algún caso similar para saber cuál fue la solución?
Gracias desde Sevilla.
Atvaino, brāļi, ja es saprastu, labprāt atbildētu. 😉 Bet es neesmu tik gudrs, kā izskatās...
thanks for the video great video, how exactly do they fail?
The inner bit can get loose, gets play, can't get alignment right, also when they wear out teeth you get knocking when turning steering wheel left and right.
@@wawayltddoes that noise happen especially when sitting in park and moving the steering wheel from left to right. I have obvious knocking when doing so. My cv axles are bad and are being replaced already, but from my general knowledge bad cv’s are not going to make any clunking/knocking sounds just from sw in park. I also notice that the steering wheel will become more stiff the longer I drive, then as soon as the car is shut off and turned back on the steering feels like as a feather again. There’s obvious things that still need to be done with suspension like sway bar replacements and struts but due to the electrical components of the steering rack it leads me to believe that’s y it gets more stiff with a longer drive. If you or anyone has had the same issue I’d love some help. 2008 eos 2.0tfsi by the way.
Also side note, car(2008 2.0tfsi) clear of any codes/faults whatsoever. Love this engine and dsg transmission, never had any problems but everything else in between that’s where and why any non mechanically inclined person should never own the majority of Volkswagens. I love mine dearly and have been through it with her but just like a good woman that stays by your side, it doesn’t mean she ain’t gonna find something to make u mad for no reason.😂
Great comparison 😉👍 I'm afraid I won't be able to help with advice. Maybe try to consult with some local mechanic, see what they can suggest?
Excelent video and demonstration. Thank you
You're welcome 😎👍
what if you have a red steering wheel on dash is the E rack bad?
What's the fault code?
@@wawayltd internal malfunction, ctrl. module faulty, steering angle sensor
That's beyond my competence, sorry.
Great helpfull video as allways. Thank you for posting. 😊👍👍
You're very welcome 👍
Good tutorial. I find it's easier to leave the wiring attached to the subframe and just disconnect in the engine bay.
It depends if new rack comes with all new cables...
Could you tell me where they connect in the engine bay? Im looking for the connections to the torque sensor. Earthing aswell
Nice video , when finished installing a simple way to calibrate the steering angle sensor would be to lock the steering wheel all the way left until you hear a beep then all the way to the right and hold . you should be calibrated afther this and a rest would not be needed ,
Thanks, but it didn't work for my car, I tried all sorts of ways - it has to he software. Maybe on older cars it would work...
Strange I have a 2015 A3 8v did the same with out issues . Normally I clear all faults codes or disconnect battery for a bit . The I am able to calibrate end stops of steering angle sensor .
Maybe I should've held a steering wheel longer at the end point to hear a "beep"? I think I was holding a few seconds, but I'm not sure how long.
Anyway, thanks for the advice 👍
Next time, I'll try better.
Well done you! Where did you ordered refurbished part? Thanks.
Thanks. I think I got it from AutoDoc
Hi I got a new steering rack put into my VW Passat b6 1.9 TDI 2008. It's alot better but the steering is very heavy almost like no power steering. The angle sensor wasn't reset and there are no error lights on dash. Does the angle sensor still.have to be reset and if so will the steering feel a bit lighter then?
Before I had my angle sensor reset, steering was still light, but it felt different - when you go from lock to lock it bumped heavy at the end, didn't have that cushiony feeling at the end. Also as you come out of the turning it didn't try to return to straight position as quick. All steering angle related systems gave error, ABS, ESP, tyre pressure monitoring system, steering itself.
It didn't feel heavy, but we have very different steering systems, I have electric, but in 2008 B6, I believe there's still hydraulic. I would recommend to reset angle sensor (it needs to be done anyway) and see if it helps.
@@wawayltd thanx .but it is definitely an electronic steering rack not hydrolic
Mine (the one in the video) is definitely electric, not hydraulic.
You might need to take the car to a VW dealer so they can flash the steering characteristic curve maps.
how did you set the characteristic curve? i have converted from gen 1 to gen 2 now i don't know which characteristic curve and how to set it, can you help me?
I didn't convert, just replaced same part old for the new one. Unfortunately, I can't help you, sorry.
Thanks a lot for the detailed information. 👍👍
You're welcome 👍
Amazing video mate, thank you more than a lot!
You're very welcome Vittorio! 👍
Very good mechanik ...where are you please 🙏 im have same problem on skoda superb 2 you got any garage and contact please 🙏
Sorry David, I don't do repairs as business.
Any contact for you ..just need to ask something
Hi David. I'm not a mechanic, but if I can help - I will. What is it you want to ask?
Where are you please
Im need do mine ? Please any email for you ?
When did your steering knock, when you go over bumps or when turning as i have an annoying knowing sound coming from my car and few people said maybe my rack needs changing, is there a way i can send you the video of the noise so i can know if you had similar noise
Hi,
That particular rack gave knock sound when I was turning steering wheel quickly left-right-left. Worn out teeth on that rack.
Other signs of bad rack, on my Sharan - vibration on high speed, wheel alignment couldn't be done (straight out of the garage and it's off again), and finally it had a play close to inner joint of tie rod, but it wasn't inner joint.
Also bad rack can be knocking while going over the bumps too, like on my friends Meriva. He also had obvious play if you shake tie rod.
I believe any reasonable mechanic should be able to tell where is the problem of your car.
Unfortunately, in real life I'm not as clever as I pretend to be in my videos 😏 , I don't think I will be able to diagnose your car by listening to the sound of the video, sorry.
Thanks very much I thought it was for Bout for bolts never done one before
Hi friend do know what is the torque specs for the subframe and the bolts.
Thanks for the video
Hello, here's the torque information:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/manual/60edf9fd8bdf4700046d5276
I'm just trying to lower the subrame to get to my power steering pump or rack do I still have to lower rack and reset stering angle sensor cus I just need to change pump that u plug into under the tray, this is on a seat leon cupra any help pls
Sorry Paul, I don't have much experience with hydraulic power steering. I think, if it's just a pump, it depends on location. If you didn't have to disconnect sensors or actual steering, you shouldn't have to reset SAS.
Thank you so much, amazing video
You're welcome 😊
good video mate, can the electric motor only be replace on the rack?
I believe it can, but I have no experience with that. In my case the actual rack was bad.
Hello.
I can't hear the English in the video, so let me ask you a question in text.
Were you able to distinguish whether the problem was on the steering column side or the tie rod side? Could you please tell me?
Hello. In this case teeth on the rack had play and there was knocking sound when turning left or right. In my other car I replaced rack because it had a play inside rack and it was impossible to do wheel alignment.
Friendly general tip: Use four chords / ropes on the subframe before taking the bolts out, so that if it falls off the jack it only falls a few inches. It only takes a few minutes to attach them and it means the wiring harnesses and pipes (where applicable - not in this case) don't get damaged.
I always do this - after my first subframe suddenly fell to the floor unexpectedly (Renault Scenic Mk 1). I now know how long to set the ropes so that I can often do the replacement job with the subframe still suspended by the ropes. With the Scenic, I even put the full weight of the gearbox on the subframe whilst it's hanging by the ropes! I don't know about this particular (steering rack) job as I haven't done it yet.
Anyway, hopefully this tip - and the one by someone else here not to hammer the trackrod ends because it can wreck the torque sensor in the rack - will make this a stress-free job!
Thanks for the helpful video. 🙂
Big TY from france
You're welcome 🇫🇷 🍾🌟
General question, how did you come to the conclusion that you need a new steering rack ? Assist motor dead ? Or is it steering angle problems even after alignment ?
Steering angle problems even after the alignment. I have replaced on Sharan and on Altea - one had a play on inside rod, another also inside on teeth.
@@wawayltd im asking because my 2006 Golf 5 SDI Trendline also has problem with steering, 4 brand new tires, 2 alignments at same shop, first he did FR adjust then FL adjust, but even after 200km, driving at highway speed car pulls right, steering wheel must be held left a little (like 11 oclock) to compensate and drive straight. I read through forums and I think it will help to first try removing the steering wheel and put it back on one tooth to the right to "align" it...
Personally I don't think that replacing steering wheel will help. Try to check if there is any play on that toothed rod inside rack.
Very good video. Excellent description of what you were doing. Full marks! Have you ever had the rack from the Leon which has the angle sensor included? Not on the steering column? Is there much difference do you know. I have a mechanical failure code and am wary of just tearing it down.
Just a major warning here on 10:20 ... the reason I'm looking at this video to replace my steering rack is because I've damaged the torque sensor [integral to the rack] by hitting the track rod ends with a hammer to free them ! The torque sensor in the VAG rack is very sensitive to impact damage, so ensure you do NOT use a hammer to split these joints.
Thanks for the advice 👍
Thank you very much for that warning. Wow - what a well hidden and bad trap. I have a great joint splitter but it still creates quite a bang when the taper breaks free - I don't know whether that would damage the sensor. I guess I could leave the nut on just slightly loosened to minimize the bang. Or disconnect the track rods at the adjuster. That nearly always requires a MAPP torch for me, but at least it frees them off in case adjustments are needed. Thanks again.
@@JSB2500 I would hope that a ball joint splitter would create less of an impact [pardon the pun] and be OK... but bear in mind that the torque sensor will succomb to a hammer hit on the end of the track rod... so be real gentle with everything down there... and good luck :)
vielen Dank, thank you for this perfekt Video.
Bitte sehr 😎
zdravo imam problem na passat b6 2.0 tdi letva volana je elektricna ali ima malo luft lupa kad zakrecem volan onako na kratko ali lupa spone i sve novo vjerovatno letva lupa ali nemam ni jednu gresku na instrument tabli i dosta se teze okrece volan dok kod mog tate isti auto ide lagano i nista ne lupa vjerovatno je kod njega promjenjena kod mene je original auto ima 350.000tkm pomozite u cemu bi mogo biti problem hvala Lp
Извини, брат, на телефоне не могу перевести. Как-нибудь дома на компьютере попробую. 👍
Is the Golf 5 gti and (2007/2008) Audi 8p steering rack the same?
Is it hydraulic or electric on your Golf?
Thank you for the tutorial
You're welcome 😎👍
Very good video ❗
Thanks 😊
Nice job man!! Thanks!
You're very welcome 😷👍
Same instructions for a 2014 Tiguan SE FWD?
I believe if it's not exactly same, should be very similar.
@@wawayltd a lot of the underside does look the same. Thank you . I will remember to post what differences, if any, when I get it done….
Good luck 👍
Hello,very great video.
But I have a question ,it`s possible to upgrade this steering rack (probabily gen 2 1K1909144) to gen 3 ,ex 1K0909144 ?
Thanks !
Sorry Alex, I don't know.
@@wawayltd Thank you !
Excellent video;thanks very much
Steve, you are welcome! Please check out description of it on a website:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/manual/60edf9fd8bdf4700046d5276
Great item to have and easy to maintain.
I have a seat Alhambra se lux 2.0tdi 170bhp 6dpeed DSG 2012 (62) milage 130k
I have changed
Wishbones/ball joints/inner tie rod and track rod ends and all 3 engine mounts ,NEW DMF,Dsg oil has been changed
All OEM or lemforder parts
Wheel alignment has been done brand new Micheline cross climate tyers .
Problem begins when I'm on a motor way and go over 65mph the steering has a vibration and at the same time the steering wheel moves side to side a little but when I'm on the motor way and if there's a slight bend and I turn the steering whilst doing 70mph the shaking will fade away but soon as I go back on a straight it shakes again.
Thank you
I had same symptoms when my Sharan's steering rack was bad and I had to replace it. It's expensive part, so before you invest in it - please check either with mechanic (they can shake it to see if there's a play in actual rack), or check it yourself.
I have a 2011 vw cc a rock hit the connectors on the rack is tgat removable
Don't know, it needs to be seen.
Can I apply this to a 2010 audi a3 2.0 tdi? Excellent video btw you are the man👌
Not 100% sure, but if your power steering is not hydraulic, but electric then should be fairly similar.
Hi
Thanks for very informative video
Do you need to do subframe aligment with locating pins?
I just try to put subframe back so it matches it's own marks, you know where it was connected it stays cleaner. Not quite sure yet what locating pins are..
You need wheel alignment after this anyway.
@@wawayltd Thanks for your answer. Great workmanship
Is this safe without hanging the motor up or supporting it from beneath? I need to lower the subframe a few cm to access steering rack banjobolt
The engine is not sitting on the subframe, there are 2 big engine mounts that hold the engine. Bottom pendulum support is just preventing from engine swinging back to front.
Great job there mate. I've got a 2009 golf Mk6 diesel with 89k on the clock and I've noticed that the steering wheel is harder than it used to be. Most annoyingly this happens intermittently, one day it would be harder to turn then other day it would go back to normal. I've been told is to do with the power steering motor on the rack that it might be on its way out. What do u think?! Thanks
Thanks, do you have hydraulic or electric power steering?
Nice video, really helpful.
Just suggest you wear safety gloves to protect your hands.😀
Thanks for the advice 👍
great video
Thanks Aqeel
I heard that on mk5 from 2004 to 2007 u can change the stiffnes from the vcds. From 1 to 6. ?
Possibly, if it's electric power steering... but I don't have experience with that.
Hello I have a polo that uses fluid can I convert to electrical
Anything is doable, but I don't think it will be simple.
Great video!!!!
Well happy would you like to do mine now 🤣😇
I will leave all the joy to you 😉
Oh I can't wait lol
Many thanks
Stay safe 🙏
Hello my audi a3 8p1 power steering rack is a gen1. Can i replace it with a gen2 directly ? Or do i need to make some changes? My audi is a 1.6 2003
Wouldn't 2003 A3 have hydraulic power steering?
@@wawayltd no, its eletric, a couple months ago i had to replace the rack. My mecanic told me that the to change to a new one i need to replace the wiring and it would cost lots of money so he put an identical one and its a gen1. So i put a time bomb on my car :/
Do you know if gen1 is directly compatible with gen 2 ? I know if im going gen 3 i need to spend a a lot of money
Sorry, I don't know about compatibility, I'm not as clever - I just know how to take it out and put it back in.. Try some forums?
@@wawayltd i already did that but no answer. I think im going try to call audi. I bought my car in perfect condition only with 93000km one owner and the KM's are real. And i would like to solve the problem by trying save some money either.
I can do this
Easy
My 2020 VW Atlas VR6 4motion needs a new steering rack and it has only 5357 miles on it! It’s still on warranty and dealer will replace it
What was the reason to change the steering Rack.
It was worn out, made knocks.
Can i continue driving my Polo 1.6 with power steering light on? If no what are the disadvantage. We love your content here in Johannesburg SA.
Thanks👍 I think you need to find out what that fault code light is pointing to.
My bro we just did mine this weekend however since we did it the is knock sound that comes now and then
Did steering rack come with the warranty?
No bro do u think it's faulty?
Where is the knocking sound coming from?
On my right hand driver wheel side
You need to find exactly what part is making a noise, then you will know what part is faulty or, maybe, installed incorrectly. Unfortunately, I can't help you like that - it needs to be examined.
You fail to mention why you need to replace the old steering rack,what was the fault?
Inner part got loose
there is no servo oil and tank?
It's electrical power steering.
Was there a reason for replacement? Lights on dash or something? Great video as usual.
Thanks 👍 Reason for replacing that one is because of nearly 300K miles, those teeth got worn out and steering started making knocking noise. New rack.
@@wawayltd ok fair enough. I'm trying to find mysterious clunk over bumpy roads. Suspension and all the bushes checked and replaced. Im suspecting rack
Hi.m8 which impact machine you use and how much is it?
Check anti-roll bar links. Their ball joints. They do clunks over bumpy roads.
@@wawayltd how much have you paid for the drill and what make is it
What was the problem that led to changing steering rack ?
When I replaced rack on my Sharan - it had an internal play, vibration on speed, was not possible to do wheel alignment.
On this seat it got loose on those teeth and had knocking sound when turning left-right. There are some bolts that can be tightened, but that's temporary solution as wear is not even.
nice work man
Thanks 😊
thank you very much for the nice and good video
Nice
What year is the car?
Thanks 👍
That one was 2012
@@wawayltd
And is posible to remove the rack and not remove all that frame?
I just experienced some new problems with the steering wheel
You can see them on my channel
You can't remove rack without removing the subframe.
Your video looks scary, I'm not that professional to tell what's causing it.
Did you try to scan it?
@@wawayltd
Yes I did
Nothing came out.
Is the rack, definitely.
I had some play before, than came the light in the dash board and after the witchcraft :))
Hi ,your link doesnt work
That is because I created completely new version of WheelsAndMotors website and didn't have time to re-upload all contents. I have done this one, please try this link:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/manual/60edf9fd8bdf4700046d5276
@@wawayltd thank You so much ,You are a star ;-)
Does this apply to a Polo Playa? 6n2???
If I'm not mistaken, 6n2 is like 20 years old. Shouldn't it have hydraulic power steering?