Hi Mike,, Mike Haduck masonry here, I am mostly retired in Florida (still doing some videos) watching some of your videos and I want to compliment you on your techniques, very educational, even old dogs like me are still learning, all the best, Mike Haduck
Good video helped me with my slab I put in on the side of my yard was going to hire someone they wanted lot more then used to so I decided to DIY it. Even having to buy tools still was able to do it for 80% less the quotes I got. I rented the Bull Float from HD for $25 a day it was the first time ever used a Bull Float most of my DIY slabs before were small just use a hand float.
Mike, What is the largest garage floor/patio floor that one man can pour without it getting away from them? And why isn't a vibrator always used on every job vs tapping on the form? just curious. Great channel
The size one guy can do will depend on his/her experience and physical condition. I used to do 20 - 30 yard pours myself when I was in my 20's and 30's. Not now. The slump you pour will kind of dictate if you need to vibrate or just tap the edges as we are. A 6 slump consolidates itself pretty good so just light tapping on the edges is enough. A 4 slump and we'd vibrate.
Hey Mike, love the content. Your videos are always awesome and so educational. I’m located in North East PA and looking to have a 24x55 slab poured soon for a metal building. Town has no requirements for the slab, do I need footers or just 6 inch all around with 4 inch gravel sub base is sufficient?
Hey Mike question. I’m pouring a 24x55ft slab, 12” thick. It’s for a car hoist. Do you think I should have a little bit of slope on it ? Or how do you usually slope your flat slabs,
🙏👷👍 appreciate your endeavour. I have a query . Are screeding and floating also required for self consolidating concrete (SCC)(aka self compacting concrete) ?
Hey Mike, another great video! Say, was wondering if you could in a couple of your “typical pour” videos, put a real timeclock in one of the upper corners. Because these videos are only minutes long, vs. the real-time being hours long, making it a little hard for us to get the project's timing down, and it would be a BIG help since timing is critical in every step. Realizing that weather conditions affect the timing, one would know that sun speeds the work up and cloudy overcast cool days extends it as well as the slump and chemical additives you’ve chosen. Maybe you’ve already done this, and if so, would appreciate your pointing us to those videos on your website. Thanks, and keep up the Great Work! PS: an additional video with the timeclock on a stamped concrete pour would be excellent as well . . .😎
Rebar is better than wire if spaced close enough. I'd use the MBW ScreeDemon for now, we like the battery one. But for slumps less than a 6, I'd go with the gas one.
Mike I noticed you pull a screed board a lot more than using your power screed . I understand why you did it on this pour it’s only 16’ wide . Do you feel that the power screed in too heavy on water reduced concrete at a 6 +slump.
Most flat work guys I know around here don't even bother with wire mesh. Always ends up on the bottom anyway. Fiber in the mix is all you need according to them.
I pour fiber alot here in Ohio. It's more of a bear to finish IMO. Ur correct the wire does end up on bottom unless you are persistent about pulling as you go.
Yes, and it's worthless at the bottom of a slab. A waste of time and money to put it in. We use rebar and set it up on rebar chairs - usually (yes it is a tripping hazard big time). Occasionally you can't find them so we let the rebar lay on the ground and pull it up as we go. And we pull it up above mid slab because we know it will settle some. The key is to stay off or out of that pour once you've pulled up the rebar or wire mesh. If you're going to walk all over it then you know it's going to end up on the ground. Don't let your owner see that. They just might know a thing or to about how to correctly do a slab.
I'm just curious about the rebar grid. If you have in the concrete, isn't supposed to be roughly in the middle of your concrete? I see you all pull it up, but then you just step right back on it. So what is the point? I'm just asking.
Hey Mike, love the content. Your videos are always awesome and so educational. I’m located in North East PA and looking to have a 24x55 slab poured soon for a metal building. Town has no requirements for the slab, do I need footers or just 6 inch all around with 4 inch gravel sub base is sufficient?
Great way to teach people interested in learning, through the eyes and mind of a true guy new to the trade
I appreciate that!
Hi Mike,, Mike Haduck masonry here, I am mostly retired in Florida (still doing some videos) watching some of your videos and I want to compliment you on your techniques, very educational, even old dogs like me are still learning, all the best, Mike Haduck
Thank you Mike!
Got the support from an OG!
Don't think you could have a better crew to show/teach you on these pours ! Well done Mike and the boys !
Thank you
The new guy in red is doing a good job. It seems like he is really interested and wants to learn. Great teaching
Good video helped me with my slab I put in on the side of my yard was going to hire someone they wanted lot more then used to so I decided to DIY it. Even having to buy tools still was able to do it for 80% less the quotes I got. I rented the Bull Float from HD for $25 a day it was the first time ever used a Bull Float most of my DIY slabs before were small just use a hand float.
Damn good teacher!!!! Most concrete guys are yellers!!! 👍🏻
Good to see your veteran enjoying his apprenticeship with you Mike
Nice work fellas! Reminds me when I worked with a good crew!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Really great to see the "old timers" passing on their knowledge to the younger generation.
Thank you
This was an amazing video
Thanks
Mike, What is the largest garage floor/patio floor that one man can pour without it getting away from them? And why isn't a vibrator always used on every job vs tapping on the form? just curious. Great channel
The size one guy can do will depend on his/her experience and physical condition. I used to do 20 - 30 yard pours myself when I was in my 20's and 30's. Not now. The slump you pour will kind of dictate if you need to vibrate or just tap the edges as we are. A 6 slump consolidates itself pretty good so just light tapping on the edges is enough. A 4 slump and we'd vibrate.
Love the channel appreciate everything
Hey Mike, love the content. Your videos are always awesome and so educational. I’m located in North East PA and looking to have a 24x55 slab poured soon for a metal building. Town has no requirements for the slab, do I need footers or just 6 inch all around with 4 inch gravel sub base is sufficient?
If I'm pouring a new 16x20 slab for a garage, over existing concrete, how thick would you pour the new slab?
Hey Mike question. I’m pouring a 24x55ft slab, 12” thick. It’s for a car hoist.
Do you think I should have a little bit of slope on it ? Or how do you usually slope your flat slabs,
🙏👷👍 appreciate your endeavour. I have a query . Are screeding and floating also required for self consolidating concrete (SCC)(aka self compacting concrete) ?
When should you do a mono slab? Building a 20x30 basic metal shop!
Hey Mike, another great video! Say, was wondering if you could in a couple of your “typical pour” videos, put a real timeclock in one of the upper corners. Because these videos are only minutes long, vs. the real-time being hours long, making it a little hard for us to get the project's timing down, and it would be a BIG help since timing is critical in every step. Realizing that weather conditions affect the timing, one would know that sun speeds the work up and cloudy overcast cool days extends it as well as the slump and chemical additives you’ve chosen.
Maybe you’ve already done this, and if so, would appreciate your pointing us to those videos on your website. Thanks, and keep up the Great Work!
PS: an additional video with the timeclock on a stamped concrete pour would be excellent as well . . .😎
Is it a must to put a slope on a small Gazebo slab? Im just confused on how my 6x6 posts will be straight if there's gonna be a slight slope.
If things have moved out of grade while the concrete is pouring, what are your options?
Appreciate the video. Is wire as good as rebar? I am going to DIY a 32 x30 garage and 24 by 60 driveway. Also what power screed you recomend
Rebar is better than wire if spaced close enough. I'd use the MBW ScreeDemon for now, we like the battery one. But for slumps less than a 6, I'd go with the gas one.
Hay mike how can you fix concrete that has puddels on it can you put a floor leveler on it and then grind the hole slabe to make it level again
Excellent
Mike I noticed you pull a screed board a lot more than using your power screed . I understand why you did it on this pour it’s only 16’ wide . Do you feel that the power screed in too heavy on water reduced concrete at a 6 +slump.
The power screed is good on all these pours. We're just a little old school I guess. These smaller ones are just as easy to hand screed for us.
Most flat work guys I know around here don't even bother with wire mesh. Always ends up on the bottom anyway. Fiber in the mix is all you need according to them.
Fibers are no fun for anything your power troweling. Always seems to work their way to the surface.
I pour fiber alot here in Ohio. It's more of a bear to finish IMO. Ur correct the wire does end up on bottom unless you are persistent about pulling as you go.
Yes, and it's worthless at the bottom of a slab. A waste of time and money to put it in. We use rebar and set it up on rebar chairs - usually (yes it is a tripping hazard big time). Occasionally you can't find them so we let the rebar lay on the ground and pull it up as we go. And we pull it up above mid slab because we know it will settle some. The key is to stay off or out of that pour once you've pulled up the rebar or wire mesh. If you're going to walk all over it then you know it's going to end up on the ground. Don't let your owner see that. They just might know a thing or to about how to correctly do a slab.
How much do you charge per meter.. We do the same pours here in saudi but the prices are way too low.😢
how does that laser level work?
hey Mike where are you located ?
Maine
The spacers for the wire cost litterally cents how you have layed it may as well not bothered.
Not supposed to wet set anchor bolts. The building code says the are supposed to be "in place" before pouring concrete.
Hi Mike
The rebar lays on the ground, is that how it should be?
UPD. Ah, now i see, you lifted the rebar grid during pouring concrete
Doesn’t stay in many instances.
Wish I could post some current pictures of a driveway I just removed, in this comment, of what happens with mesh that is not suspended with spacers
Settle the aggregate, and bring up the cream. Bet
Sit it down.... then immediately corrects him and tells him he sat it down in the wrong spot.
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I'm just curious about the rebar grid. If you have in the concrete, isn't supposed to be roughly in the middle of your concrete? I see you all pull it up, but then you just step right back on it. So what is the point? I'm just asking.
Hey Mike, love the content. Your videos are always awesome and so educational. I’m located in North East PA and looking to have a 24x55 slab poured soon for a metal building. Town has no requirements for the slab, do I need footers or just 6 inch all around with 4 inch gravel sub base is sufficient?