Hi Mike! What is the name of the water reducer and how much do you put? Thanks for the nice videos. I started out watching a lot of Odell concrete on TH-cam but after watching your channel I realized a lot of the trowel finishing they do on exposed flatwork in California and Arizona is not a good idea in colder climates like Canada where I live. Thanks!
production quality is off the charts Mike. voiceover is really clear and cohesive, camerawork is calm. it really feels like I stood there watching, sitting in my comfy chair with a nice cup of coffee.
Looks perfect. for the crack control, what about taking a sharpie before pour and marking it on the plastic sheeting protecting the wall? might save a little time. Just a thought. Wish I knew how to work concrete.
"Mike, you're doing it wrong." --- This is TH-cam, had to be the first. --- Thanks for the great demonstration, it helps us beginners get our pours close to right.
I miss this kind of work since I was 17 when I started. Residential, commercial and industrial concrete labor. Start to finish just like your working crew. It's a labor of love and accomplishments. Stay safe and healthy, guys, women too!! 😊👍 now, where's my trowel?
The picture framing looks nice . Old school. You have some old guys there glad to see their backs and knees holding up. Nice job.....I would of gone 10 feet from the house myself.
When out figure out your optimal patio size, DOUBLE IT! One table on this patio with chairs and you will have to walk off the patio and back on.......... Space gets eaten up quickly. Make cardboard cutouts of the footprints of all of your goodies BEFORE the final forms are set.
One thought in Britain it is recommended to seal the top of wet concrete either by spraying or polythene sheating to reduce dehydration it certainly Helps the surface finish, interesting video brought back some good memories, looked very professional.
I put expansion material between all large pieces of concrete because it ALWAYS moves. It doesn't need freezes, just temperature changes. Nice that you use plastic drop cloth to protect the finished house surfaces. So many finishers swear they will clean it up. Concrete doesn't clean off of paint or wood or anything really.
GREAT INFORMATION on the de-icing chemicals. I did not know that. Broom finish is real nice. Your team does very clean work. The drip line of rain. That is how caves are formed. Rain picks up Carbon Dioxide as it falls, carbonic acid, melts rock, especially calcium.
In Minnesota they still use wire mesh we stopped using it mainly because we mostly do remodel and when we demo older concrete the wire is always rusted out parts on the ground some is still lifted but mostly not so we only use rebar and microfiber unless required on commercial
Proper job. Nice to see that you float properly before brooming. Most of these yahoos just bullfloat and then broom. On a lot of old government specs, they require a steel tral finish before brooming. Good job.
Hey Mike. If a 4'x4' section of the slab was removed would you put money on the wire being uniformly placed in the bottom 1/3 of the slab? We use #3 on 16" or 24" centers on SOGs so we can fit our feet in the squares when placing the concrete. We only use wire on pan deck or thin slabs that won't accept rebar. The best combination is for SOGs is #3 or #4 with stealth mesh over 10 mil and expansion at all hard edges. KSC
Great work as always Mike the only thing I see and I see this all the time, is that the final grade of the concrete should have been at least three or four inches lower due to the double doors. You get a lot of rain and snow deflecting off the concrete and rotting out the doors
Been working on house that was finished in 1941. I couldn't believe how much damage to foundation from water off roof splashing on ground 12" away from walls. I've seen water erosion from dripping directly on slabs but not from hitting ground and splashing off the wall. The foundation still has fewer cracks than most from more modern times. Not sure if they had ready mix trucks then. Inside you can see what appears to be cold joints between the loads but they don't leak.
Your whole crew has ODC. That's why your work looks so good. A like-minded crew. No data to go buy but sure seems crews from the north east do nicer concrete work than those in the south. Down here it's bullfloat, mag the perimeter, edge it and hit it with a wet broom. Home by 2. FWIW: I'm a commercial GC and we aren't allowed to pull up wire mostly because the wire depth is inconsistent (so the engineers tell me) It must set on chairs. No bricks or rocks either since bricks create weak spots in the slab. (so the Engineers tell me) Oh and we don't "pour" concrete, we "place" concrete (so the Engineers tell me)
I heard you mention that you don’t pour the slab against the house in the slab begins move or shift later on. If that’s the case, what do you put between the slab and house so they are not connected? Styrofoam?
You could use styrofoam but it would tend to deteriorate and look ugly after a short time. That’s a special material, specifically designed for isolating concrete to concrete joints. It’s very inexpensive.
You could even use strips of tar paper, attached to the existing concrete. I’ve done that in cases where less than a half inch gap was desired. Visqueen would also work. Anything to prevent the bond. Cardboard even.
We use a roll called Iso-Strip Off for our isolation joint. It's kind of a foam, comes in a 50' roll, either 4" x 1/2" or 6" or 8". We glue it to the foundation with 3M spray glue.
Nice to see good, clean work protection of people’s property rather than just throw it down and get a paycheck like most people that call themselves concrete finishers.
I’ve got a quick question whenever I’ve used bagged concrete before there’s always water that comes up to the top and even if you’re not adding a lot of water. How would you make bagged concrete or do they make bagged concrete that actually has cream on the top after you mix it instead of the water at the top, it just all seems watery unlike concrete right out of the truck?
I buy a bag of Portland Cement and add at least a Quart of Cement per bag. That'll help a little bit with cream and water issues. Sometimes I'll add a little accelerator to each bag to reduce water bleeding also.
Watching many of these videos of pros like this doing top notch concrete work reinforces my opinion of my local area concrete contractors - many of them are incompetent idiots who have no clue what they are doing. Which is why so much concrete around here, even in newer construction, is falling apart. My house is barely 10 years old and my entire driveway and patio is cracking, slumping and coming apart. It's going to cost a fortune to tear it all out and replace.
Nice video with the army of workers. In Arizona that's a one man pour and finish. Also, with all the trees in background, the portapod totally unnecessary.
Hey Mike, what do you do when you start a pour and the second truck never shows up. We had that happen this year when it was 110 degrees in south texas on a simple driveway. took 2 hours for another truck to show up. they kept telling us its 15 minutes away its 15 minutes away
Whenever I’ve had that happen, we always chop a straight edge, with the come-a-longs, wherever we ran out at and try to make it line up with what would be one of the grooved control joints. When the fresh concrete finally gets there a cold joint will be formed and will inevitably be one of the control joints because that’s where it will crack. Make the most of a bad situation.
That doesn't happen to us, we always pour first round in the morning too so it's even less likely to happen as the first trucks out of the plant are going to us.
Haven't you guys heard that you are wasting your time. You just need to dry pour. It is just as good and so much easier. :) My father and I tried our hand at pouring concrete when we poured our driveway slab. We did that almost 30 years ago and it has been driven on with my D6 many times and we didn't put in any control joints. We poured the slab in 3 sections that were 16' x 40 foot and 16" thick. So far we haven't had any cracks.
i noticed in the begining. because of the water reducer added . it had seperated the stones from the slurry. you can see piles of stones and not much sand and concrete
Yep, the Big-Box stores generally only carry the 100 foot rolls (5’ x 100’) and they usually only have 6X6 W1.4 X W1.4 gauge but that’s the typical spec for most things. Maybe they’ll sell a partial roll. Never tried.
Super can go to a slump like they por,don't know what kind of WR they use,but the slump is to much,do you ever take cylinder and break them in 28 days?
@@ehamster Actually dishwashing soap has nearly the same chemical makeup as water reducer and could be used in a pinch. But I still don’t know the mix ratio. You’d have to experiment with a couple micro-batches to see what works.
They add it at the concrete plant, it's ounces per 100 weight of cement. Meaning they add it depending on how many pounds of cement per yard is in the mix. Usually around 3 ounces per 100 lbs of cement. Mid-range is usually around 12 to 15 ounces per yard.
Used to be a concrete supply company in the Cleveland Ohio area called Clifton! Their pamphlet said to wait 3yrs before using salt on new crete! Just sayin!😅
The only thing about this Mike is having the slab at almost the same height as the sliding door sill. Aren't you worried about water seeping unde the sill? Any time i have built a deck for clients I advise them to have at least one riser height to step down onto the deck.
If you want to protect the slab from frost getting underneath the foam should extend the foam out a ways past the edge. And if lifting the wire keeps it in position why do all engineers require chairs? Look at engineered projects where concrete is tested and mesh is chaired. They seem to last a lot longer then any residential crap.
Before start up mark the back of the plastic to know where measurements need to be for joints simple so then know worries about measurements after wards.
Life of the concrete most likely no uv to degrade the foam a rule of thumb I have heard from is 1 inch of styrofoam is equivalent to 1 foot of frost protection.
Great video, except for the part where you said you do not use spacers; you lift the mesh then immediately walk all over it, sinking it back to the bottom. If you don't walk over the mesh, your method is acceptable, but how you did it is wrong. It may not be an issue immediately or in this situation because of the underlayment. But a suspended slab would be an issue at some point. Otherwise, you guys are golden.
Seen entire streets with foam underneath to keep the frost from getting underneath and stops the asphalt heaving in areas in that have poor soils and a high water table. Expensive but keeps the asphalt in good shape for a lot longer.
You take a slab of yours up, and it's guaranteed the mesh is on the bottom. You'll walk it right back in. We take them up like that all the time. For its purpose, it belongs in the middle to restrain it during curing.
I don't think this slab will crack at all. Reason is: the slab has even thickness, the slab is not connected to anything firm and is floating pretty freely. The ground may settle a little bit though, if they cheated on the compaction and preparation of the ground.
A smarter person would have marked the control joints on the building wall before the concrete was poured EG a bit of electrical tape on the plastic sheeting.
Great looking job, with attention to detail and final look is second to none, but 100% that iron mesh is sitting at the bottom of the pour - if the mixture runs easily under when lifted it will run equally easily makes its way back over when stepped on - 100% (you may have done this 1000 times but I bet you never you have never taken a patio apart once it settles to have a look where the mesh settled which means your experience counts for nothing - your ego got the best of you here (wire police - hit a nerve I see) and why not spend $20 and have some small supports as the manufactures suggest, the people that know because they tested it)
Yeah and now you can replace the rotten bottom of the wall in a few years
4 วันที่ผ่านมา
How long r u going to do this before u mark ur dimensions on the plastic before u pour? Another 1k pours? 🤣😂🤣😂 A lot of construction is doing things in step one that will benefit u in step 50 JS good job though you’ll learn eventually 😊
The mesh is totally superfluous as its being trodden down onto the base of the slab. It needs to be raised on stools, up into the top 1/3rd of the slab, it is totally useless where it is. I would also expect a 50mm cover to the mesh. Personally, I would condemn this slab.
All my concrete mixes have water-reducer in them for higher slump concrete.
Hi Mike! What is the name of the water reducer and how much do you put? Thanks for the nice videos. I started out watching a lot of Odell concrete on TH-cam but after watching your channel I realized a lot of the trowel finishing they do on exposed flatwork in California and Arizona is not a good idea in colder climates like Canada where I live. Thanks!
production quality is off the charts Mike. voiceover is really clear and cohesive, camerawork is calm. it really feels like I stood there watching, sitting in my comfy chair with a nice cup of coffee.
Frank, I thought I was the only one to notice those details 😝. The crew makes it look easy. Ty for great video
Looks perfect. for the crack control, what about taking a sharpie before pour and marking it on the plastic sheeting protecting the wall? might save a little time. Just a thought. Wish I knew how to work concrete.
my back hurts just watching you guys----old timer here, been there, done that, taught by an Italian concrete finisher in ontario, Canada
Wealth of information and true craftsmen. A treasure to us DIY'ers. Thank you. Long time subscriber.
I really appreciate it, thank you!
What's good about you and your crew, is that you make sure the job is done right and NO cutting corners..
"Mike, you're doing it wrong." --- This is TH-cam, had to be the first. ---
Thanks for the great demonstration, it helps us beginners get our pours close to right.
I miss this kind of work since I was 17 when I started. Residential, commercial and industrial concrete labor. Start to finish just like your working crew. It's a labor of love and accomplishments. Stay safe and healthy, guys, women too!! 😊👍 now, where's my trowel?
P.S. I'm only 67 now. ✊️🤠👌
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks again for your time and effort to post!
The picture framing looks nice . Old school. You have some old guys there glad to see their backs and knees holding up. Nice job.....I would of gone 10 feet from the house myself.
Nice To See Ethics Again
Love your videos all the time, the world is alredy better because of you all
Thanks a lot .This is all the real deal .
They don't teach this stuff
in school
Great, super informative video.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
When out figure out your optimal patio size, DOUBLE IT! One table on this patio with chairs and you will have to walk off the patio and back on.......... Space gets eaten up quickly. Make cardboard cutouts of the footprints of all of your goodies BEFORE the final forms are set.
One thought in Britain it is recommended to seal the top of wet concrete either by spraying or polythene sheating to reduce dehydration it certainly Helps the surface finish, interesting video brought back some good memories, looked very professional.
Nice work, as usual. Thanks for taking the time to share. I know editing videos is time-consuming.
Great professional info! A wealth of information! Great job guys!
Appreciate that!
I put expansion material between all large pieces of concrete because it ALWAYS moves. It doesn't need freezes, just temperature changes.
Nice that you use plastic drop cloth to protect the finished house surfaces. So many finishers swear they will clean it up. Concrete doesn't clean off of paint or wood or anything really.
@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA not very easily Lord knows I've had to go back to many jobs to clean up 😞
GREAT INFORMATION on the de-icing chemicals. I did not know that.
Broom finish is real nice. Your team does very clean work.
The drip line of rain. That is how caves are formed. Rain picks up Carbon Dioxide as it falls, carbonic acid, melts rock, especially calcium.
Water is the universal solvent. Given enough time, it’ll erode diamond.
@@psidvicious Yes, A lake of purified water will dissolve a small diamond.
Great job guys, and great presentation on how to do it right. Paul O.
In Minnesota they still use wire mesh we stopped using it mainly because we mostly do remodel and when we demo older concrete the wire is always rusted out parts on the ground some is still lifted but mostly not so we only use rebar and microfiber unless required on commercial
Yep, which is why us wire lifting police bang on about it so much haha.
Proper job. Nice to see that you float properly before brooming. Most of these yahoos just bullfloat and then broom. On a lot of old government specs, they require a steel tral finish before brooming. Good job.
Just saying, why didn't you mark the poly with a felt pen at 9-6?
Beautiful work Mike and team!
Appreciate that!
Hey Mike. If a 4'x4' section of the slab was removed would you put money on the wire being uniformly placed in the bottom 1/3 of the slab?
We use #3 on 16" or 24" centers on SOGs so we can fit our feet in the squares when placing the concrete. We only use wire on pan deck or thin slabs that won't accept rebar. The best combination is for SOGs is #3 or #4 with stealth mesh over 10 mil and expansion at all hard edges.
KSC
Always great content! Thanks! You guys do great work. Looks great
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you like it!
From Arkansas, Excellent Work Guys...
Shit hole state.
Fellow Arkansasan here, I dream about our concrete finishers pour slabs like mike and crew. Seen enough slabs poured on dirt in the natural state.
Nice video and good craftsmanship. Good info.
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Great work as always Mike the only thing I see and I see this all the time, is that the final grade of the concrete should have been at least three or four inches lower due to the double doors. You get a lot of rain and snow deflecting off the concrete and rotting out the doors
Been working on house that was finished in 1941. I couldn't believe how much damage to foundation from water off roof splashing on ground 12" away from walls. I've seen water erosion from dripping directly on slabs but not from hitting ground and splashing off the wall. The foundation still has fewer cracks than most from more modern times. Not sure if they had ready mix trucks then. Inside you can see what appears to be cold joints between the loads but they don't leak.
Your whole crew has ODC. That's why your work looks so good. A like-minded crew. No data to go buy but sure seems crews from the north east do nicer concrete work than those in the south. Down here it's bullfloat, mag the perimeter, edge it and hit it with a wet broom. Home by 2.
FWIW: I'm a commercial GC and we aren't allowed to pull up wire mostly because the wire depth is inconsistent (so the engineers tell me) It must set on chairs. No bricks or rocks either since bricks create weak spots in the slab. (so the Engineers tell me) Oh and we don't "pour" concrete, we "place" concrete (so the Engineers tell me)
Looked nice. Thanks for the videos.
nice work boys
Nice job Mike day
Thanks 👍
Very interesting thanks
Not being wise guy I was always taught you place concrete you pour water lol .great job you guys do .
Wish u were in South Texas!!! That’s awesome finishing!!!
Looks great. What kinda sealer would you use in those kinda temperatures? And what about painting it?
Stringing the forms for straightness is a smart step and not overly time consuming,don’t give the customer any opportunity to chisel the price down.👍
Edit- Kitty litter for traction leaves a sticky mess in the house entry, moreso than sand
👍thanks for the great videos
I heard you mention that you don’t pour the slab against the house in the slab begins move or shift later on. If that’s the case, what do you put between the slab and house so they are not connected?
Styrofoam?
You could use styrofoam but it would tend to deteriorate and look ugly after a short time. That’s a special material, specifically designed for isolating concrete to concrete joints. It’s very inexpensive.
You could even use strips of tar paper, attached to the existing concrete. I’ve done that in cases where less than a half inch gap was desired. Visqueen would also work. Anything to prevent the bond. Cardboard even.
We use a roll called Iso-Strip Off for our isolation joint. It's kind of a foam, comes in a 50' roll, either 4" x 1/2" or 6" or 8". We glue it to the foundation with 3M spray glue.
Nice to see good, clean work protection of people’s property rather than just throw it down and get a paycheck like most people that call themselves concrete finishers.
I’ve got a quick question whenever I’ve used bagged concrete before there’s always water that comes up to the top and even if you’re not adding a lot of water. How would you make bagged concrete or do they make bagged concrete that actually has cream on the top after you mix it instead of the water at the top, it just all seems watery unlike concrete right out of the truck?
I buy a bag of Portland Cement and add at least a Quart of Cement per bag. That'll help a little bit with cream and water issues. Sometimes I'll add a little accelerator to each bag to reduce water bleeding also.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks Mike
In your area do you use curing compound or water cure, or does the air entrained concrete not require it?
It should still be cured and sealed. Either cure & seal or water cure then seal afterwards.
@MikeDayConcrete Thanks!
Watching many of these videos of pros like this doing top notch concrete work reinforces my opinion of my local area concrete contractors - many of them are incompetent idiots who have no clue what they are doing. Which is why so much concrete around here, even in newer construction, is falling apart. My house is barely 10 years old and my entire driveway and patio is cracking, slumping and coming apart. It's going to cost a fortune to tear it all out and replace.
Nice video with the army of workers. In Arizona that's a one man pour and finish. Also, with all the trees in background, the portapod totally unnecessary.
Hey Mike, what do you do when you start a pour and the second truck never shows up. We had that happen this year when it was 110 degrees in south texas on a simple driveway. took 2 hours for another truck to show up. they kept telling us its 15 minutes away its 15 minutes away
Whenever I’ve had that happen, we always chop a straight edge, with the come-a-longs, wherever we ran out at and try to make it line up with what would be one of the grooved control joints. When the fresh concrete finally gets there a cold joint will be formed and will inevitably be one of the control joints because that’s where it will crack. Make the most of a bad situation.
That doesn't happen to us, we always pour first round in the morning too so it's even less likely to happen as the first trucks out of the plant are going to us.
Haven't you guys heard that you are wasting your time. You just need to dry pour. It is just as good and so much easier. :)
My father and I tried our hand at pouring concrete when we poured our driveway slab. We did that almost 30 years ago and it has been driven on with my D6 many times and we didn't put in any control joints. We poured the slab in 3 sections that were 16' x 40 foot and 16" thick. So far we haven't had any cracks.
i noticed in the begining. because of the water reducer added . it had seperated the stones from the slurry. you can see piles of stones and not much sand and concrete
That doesn't have anything to do with the WR, sometimes it does that, depends on the batch man and what day of the week it is.
@BobL84 How TF do you make that determination? You like young boi's?
Can I buy the wire mesh at home Depot or Lowe's or Menards
Yep, the Big-Box stores generally only carry the 100 foot rolls (5’ x 100’) and they usually only have 6X6 W1.4 X W1.4 gauge but that’s the typical spec for most things. Maybe they’ll sell a partial roll. Never tried.
The water reducer seems to create of stone segregation from the sand and cement 😊😊
No, that's just the mix, some days are better than others.
Do you ever use sweat trowel finish instead of broom finish? Retired finisher from KC MO.
We mostly either broom or stamp for a finish.
What was the crucial water/cement ratio for this pour?
I was looking for a 6in. step down in front of those doors. What am I missing? ( for drainage.)
Step down is where the owner wanted it, It's his house.
Is water reducer the same thing as super plasticizer?
Super can go to a slump like they por,don't know what kind of WR they use,but the slump is to much,do you ever take cylinder and break them in 28 days?
I ask again is there a formula on water reducer
They contain modified lignosulphonates. It's a liquid additive added to the mix at the plant, you can't make it yourself.
@@ehamster Actually dishwashing soap has nearly the same chemical makeup as water reducer and could be used in a pinch. But I still don’t know the mix ratio. You’d have to experiment with a couple micro-batches to see what works.
People claim dish soap is to add air. @psidvicious
They add it at the concrete plant, it's ounces per 100 weight of cement. Meaning they add it depending on how many pounds of cement per yard is in the mix. Usually around 3 ounces per 100 lbs of cement. Mid-range is usually around 12 to 15 ounces per yard.
Ok thanks
Just wondering why the concrete wasn’t finished up to the j-channel the gap looks horrible.
It's where the homeowner wanted it.
@ Mike I get it… nothing against your work, the quality you put out is great!
I guess the owner has a different perspective. Keep on keeping on.
You and your crew always do a great job. Does Eric dress himself? Keep these videos coming.
His mom does.
25 yrs in public works concrete in Canada- wish more people understand can understand how detrimental de-icing agents are to longevity of concrete.
Nice work..no rebar into rim hoist?
They put double rebar at the edges. Looked like the fiberglass type.
Nice job!
Wire is a pain but it’s got its purpose
Used to be a concrete supply company in the Cleveland Ohio area called Clifton! Their pamphlet said to wait 3yrs before using salt on new crete! Just sayin!😅
Are those Crocs OSHA approved?
Always, yes.
U see concrete with the Hauses he screeds everything by himself. Thats crazy
You said you don't put bricks under it the wire I'm assuming you're talking about what we call chairs
brick or rather block style chairs. I don't like them either and prefer the plastic ones for rebar only. Just lift the wire.
@Stan_in_Shelton_WA same here and thank you
The only thing about this Mike is having the slab at almost the same height as the sliding door sill. Aren't you worried about water seeping unde the sill? Any time i have built a deck for clients I advise them to have at least one riser height to step down onto the deck.
Why is the concrete top right up to the sliding glass door bottom? Looks like a perfect place to get water in the house in a driving rain,
A reasonable person would shut the door.
If you want to protect the slab from frost getting underneath the foam should extend the foam out a ways past the edge. And if lifting the wire keeps it in position why do all engineers require chairs? Look at engineered projects where concrete is tested and mesh is chaired. They seem to last a lot longer then any residential crap.
Before start up mark the back of the plastic to know where measurements need to be for joints simple so then know worries about measurements after wards.
What’s the longevity on this foam? I foresee many issues in the distant future
Life of the concrete most likely no uv to degrade the foam a rule of thumb I have heard from is 1 inch of styrofoam is equivalent to 1 foot of frost protection.
Great video, except for the part where you said you do not use spacers; you lift the mesh then immediately walk all over it, sinking it back to the bottom. If you don't walk over the mesh, your method is acceptable, but how you did it is wrong. It may not be an issue immediately or in this situation because of the underlayment. But a suspended slab would be an issue at some point. Otherwise, you guys are golden.
Around here, 5000psi concrete is required to be resistant against frost and salt. 4500psi is resistant against frost.
4500psi without air? How cold winters are in you area?
@@lazarusvolta352 Normal, but that is what you need to have to withstand the frost, and to avoid scaling. Need better to withstand frost AND salt.
These guys are "professionals".
Im not a concrete guy im curious why this job was poured so thick. The only time ive heard of pouring that thick was for a 2 post lift.
would you ever put styrofoam under a driveway pour?
Seen entire streets with foam underneath to keep the frost from getting underneath and stops the asphalt heaving in areas in that have poor soils and a high water table. Expensive but keeps the asphalt in good shape for a lot longer.
Why is this walkway so thick?
You take a slab of yours up, and it's guaranteed the mesh is on the bottom. You'll walk it right back in. We take them up like that all the time. For its purpose, it belongs in the middle to restrain it during curing.
I don’t know why people don’t use that gator bar for slaps like theses rebar rust has not much bend to it cost less not heavy to lay.
I did not see any part of the video in which you explained what other people have been doing "all wrong" with their concrete pours.
Is your fella with the green sox wearing Crocs?
It is a nicely done job. But where is the part about anybody doing it wrong ?
Why no rebar? That mesh is too small, can rust too quick.
I don't think this slab will crack at all. Reason is: the slab has even thickness, the slab is not connected to anything firm and is floating pretty freely. The ground may settle a little bit though, if they cheated on the compaction and preparation of the ground.
After today that measuring tape is done for😂
Wow is that the way he brought out the concrete? Why you poring so damn wet?
imagine having to do a low slump test before your pours. you would be screwed
I didn't ask to add myself do concrete plants have thevor do I specify
I figure every one of our jobs to have mid range
👍
A smarter person would have marked the control joints on the building wall before the concrete was poured EG a bit of electrical tape on the plastic sheeting.
Great looking job, with attention to detail and final look is second to none, but 100% that iron mesh is sitting at the bottom of the pour - if the mixture runs easily under when lifted it will run equally easily makes its way back over when stepped on - 100% (you may have done this 1000 times but I bet you never you have never taken a patio apart once it settles to have a look where the mesh settled which means your experience counts for nothing - your ego got the best of you here (wire police - hit a nerve I see) and why not spend $20 and have some small supports as the manufactures suggest, the people that know because they tested it)
Liked#27 N Subbed!!!
Thanks for the support!
Salt is not good for the concrete
Mike (I'm only joking here) buy Eric a proper pair of socks and some boots!!!
I wish you were in my area.
I drove a mixer for ten years.
Yeah and now you can replace the rotten bottom of the wall in a few years
How long r u going to do this before u mark ur dimensions on the plastic before u pour? Another 1k pours? 🤣😂🤣😂
A lot of construction is doing things in step one that will benefit u in step 50 JS good job though you’ll learn eventually 😊
The mesh is totally superfluous as its being trodden down onto the base of the slab. It needs to be raised on stools, up into the top 1/3rd of the slab, it is totally useless where it is. I would also expect a 50mm cover to the mesh. Personally, I would condemn this slab.
Concrete is not poured...it is placed.
@TimSlowey Agree, if you pour concrete you have to drag a lot of it. You place it at elevation you just have to finish it.
This is from a civil engineers perspective. Also pulling wire mesh will not insure it is suspended in the slab. In fact t it rarely is.