Removal of the rectifier makes a world of difference. Just two 10mm. Removal of the long bolt and nut helps, but if you LOOSEN, not remove the two bolts (12mm) that hold the rear subframe (down by the foot pegs) it’ll allow the rear subframe to slide back and give you tons of space.
@@chtomlin My used DRZ400sm came with an FCR pumper carb....mpg was terrible, high 30's even though it was jetted correctly. I went back to the stock carb. Much rather have a 6th gear!
@@kengoodrich9027 this modern era is a horrible time for carbureted machines. Most people now who think they know about carbs don’t. And the DR-Z seems perfectly fine to me with a 5 speed. It’s not designed to go much more than 65.
A Keihin FCR39 Slant on stock (Aus) jetting also just works out of the box, and is one of the best carbs for said bike unless you're heavily modified in which case the FCR41MX is better equipped to feed a 470-522 build. Being 38mm and lacking an accelerator pump I can see the Lectron being a limiting factor long before a FCR39 Slant or FCR39MX (better pilot circuit) both of which are incredibly easy to set, are extremely reliable whilst being more capable of feeding said motor. Given prices and capabilities the Lectron just doesn't make sense.
When you look at the lectron carburetor you have to think about functionality the simplicity the easy adjustability and the fact that it doesn’t need any jetting for elevation or temperature change is what makes the lectron carburetor a good choice for adventure riders that do a lot of different elevation changes or someone that lives in a state with several elevations so the electron makes perfect sense when applied appropriately. Sure your other carburetors are great to but the electron stands alone in its function as simplicity.
@@earlgray4333well performance wise FCR knocks it out of the park, i 100% agree if ur an adventure rider or cross country that lectron or stock carb is 100% better but FCR definitely gives it a near/better performance than fuel injection, it 100% gives the drz the personality of an MX bike which a lot of people are looking for, i think all 3 carbs are just very subjective to what your looking for and what you do
Came across your video today in reccomended. Immediately noticed my hometown! I just picked up a 2020 drz SM a few weeks back, but i live in ohio now. Instant sub!
man try to use a smaller aperture or a shorter focal length lens, would help greatly with focusing. brighter light also helps. finally , use MF instead of AF. hope it helps.
Honestly, a lot of the time buying a really nice compact with a high rate of auto focus and facial/eye recognition will outperform a dlsr for selfie distance shots but lighting on the face and not behind the subject helps a buuuunch.
The great thing about the Lectron is that it has no main jet, just a power jet for top end. As a demand carb, it also runs the right mixture at any altitude or temp.
Good review and conclusion. Letting hygroscopic ethanol gas sit in a carb is what causes most issues. CV Carburetors work great and are very simple. For the way I use the DRZ reliability and serviceability is key and why I still have the stock CV carb. I use the DRZ for point to point solo desert riding at night. The DRZ can be re-jetted (or the Main and *Idle Jet* can be removed and cleaned) in ten minutes with the carb still installed, just turn it a few degrees to get access. Best solution is to get out and ride the bike on the daily or weekly. Sitting more than two months will cause issues, first with the idle jet.
So you remove the seat and just loosen and rotate the carb to get at the bottom side and access the jets? Am I forgetting or missing anything? Mine bogs out at mid to wot
@@IAmYourReflection You don't need to remove the side plastic and seat to get access to the jets. You can loosen the clamps on the air-filter boot and the intake then turn the carb. It will turn just enough so that using a 90 degree screwdriver you can access the bowl screws and then the three jets can be removed. You can also pull the air filter and move the slide with your finger to see if it is sticky. You can check the jets and slide then pull the carb for a deep clean if necessary. When you put it back together it is a good idea to replace to bowl screws with hex head screws (available at home depot). This will make the disassembly/assembly a bit easier in the future.
@@nightdipper5178 good tips! do you need to loosen the lower subframe bolts to get the carb out? I only use non ethanol gas, and when I get home from a ride I turn gas off at the petcock and let it run til it dies. It was bogging bad at first but now that I've ran some high concentration injector and carb cleaner a few times it seems much better now. Still a delay when I wack the throttle wide open tho
@@IAmYourReflection Two bolts on the lower subframe and two bolts holding the exhaust to the sub frame. loosen the air filter boot and tilt the subframe up. I also pull the voltage regulator off. Unless there is a need a I leave the throttle cables and TPS attached. The only annoying step in the process is getting the air filter boot back on when the sub frame is lowered. I use a bent screw diver to help get it back around the carb. Not using ethanol is a big plus. If the issue was caused by the bike sitting I would clean or replace the jets. Good luck.
Managed to rejet the carb on my klr 650 with the help of TH-cam, it wasn’t that difficult. Also carbs are much simpler for me to work on and cheaper than a tune on a fuel injected bike.
The most important mod for the DRZ by far, is corrected spring rates to match the riders weight. Another big bang for your buck is stainless steel brake lines. Better control levers is nice as well.
Yes sir. Mines is getting them put on I'm 230lb and my sag was terrible had to do it. Plus a full exhaust and 1st stage jet kit. I can honestly say it's a slow bike but FUN AS FUCK!
@@mboyer68 the strenght doesn't change , but it takes a lot longer till they fade. Not really noticable in normal riding , but take it to the track or do some stoppies and you will notice
Funny, but WD-40 is garbage for anything but displacing water, or cleaning up other greases. It can't penetrate with a crap like PB blaster/DeepCreep/ Zep Pro, can't lubricate once something cracks loose like silicone or MoSO2, can't protect or prevent seizing because it evaporates. It's awful at everything
@@VndNvwYvvSvv False. It works fine as a lube. Was able to repair a stuck throttle body for an old toyota that would have cost $800 to replace with nothing more than WD40...and since the repair it did not stick again. Also great for cleaning and lubing chains at the same time, especially because it doesn't leave a gunky residue.
Tbh WD40 has never solved any problem for me... its just crap that doesnt work. Im using more professional, more specific chemicals. You would be amazed to see how good they work... its like magic
I've got 20k on my bike and have never touched it since I opened up the air box at 2k and rejetted, not sure why people hate carbs, stupid easy and mechanical
If you live where you can ride year-round then you likely don't have problems with carb low speed jet plugging which is a PIA. I have to use non-enthanol premium fuel to minimize this issue. I currently own my second fuel injected bike and they both have run nearly perfect all the time warm or cold and no fiddling even after extended storage with fuel stabilizer. Carbs are amazing for what they do but they are at best a significant compromise. A carb ALWAYS sacrifices fuel economy and emissions for performance. Carbs can never achieve the same optimal level of performance as they represent added restriction in the form of a venturi to accurately meter fuel. Then there is the aspect of driveability across temperature ranges, altitude, and cold start choke/enrichment fiddling. On the road my VStrom 1000 gets better fuel economy than my DR650 that I fitted with a modified airbox and Keihin FCR MX 39. There is simply no comparison between the weight and performance between the two and the same would apply to DRZ 400 as well. I wish Suzuki would invest money in replacing the DRZ400 and DR650 with 350-400cc and 500-650 cc bikes to better compete with KTM at a competitive price point with Japanese reliability/dealer support and re-open these bikes to a more global market. These bikes have been grand-fathered in under the old emissions regulations and sooner or later this is likely to end along with your choice to purchase one.
I also experienced carb troubles. And decided to go with a Lectron.i just put it on my bike the other day and am very happy with. Can’t wait to post my results with mine in a few days.
@@Aridrona Honestly I have no idea. I've got an opened up airbox, XR's Only full exhaust, and all I know is that it runs smooth and idles great. No hesitation at all.
Like most people who mod their DRZ, I fitted an FCR39 pumper carb. Mine came off a YZF450 and I got an adaptor kit for $80. The YZF jetting was right for my 434 kit and bigger exhaust. The difference is night and day. The carb on the S/SM is underpants. Too small and slow to respond to throttle input. EVERYONE should fit an FCR39.
No more jetting or never touching it again is not possible with a carb. BeRAD might be able to put a good base jetting in, based on your specs, gas and altitude, but if you go change altitude it will change how well it runs. This happens with any carb on any bike. It is highly advisable to check if it actually runs well if you do mods or swap carbs, by putting it on a dyno with an AF meter. The only true maintenance-free option is self-adjusting injection, which is impossible on a DRZ as far as I can find. For so long I've been looking for a Lectron for my DRZ400SM big bore stroker build, but could never find them for the DRZ for some reason. It's now a 462cc with a long ratio ACT gearbox and a Lectron would be the cherry on top.
Lectron carbs are unconventional carbs that do not use jets, and they have a mechanism (some kind of metering rod) that can automatically adjust for things like changes in altitude. I have not used one yet though, so I don't know how well this works. I definitely find them to be a curiosity though.
@@robinsonrom Carbureted cars use metering rods or blocks as well, but it is never perfect. I read a fair bit about them being rich down low from factory, which is probably to be on the safe side. I'm still considering getting one, although the conversion kind of broke the bank. It's an 800,- carb, while a 39mm FCR is only 350,- usually.
What is the front light kit you have on ? I love it 10:43 while waiting at a red light i always love enjoying exhaust fumes 🤣 Smarter every day chanel : how a carburator works 😉 I subcribed to youre chanel mate thks for the vid ✌
I’m a little late on this one but... I have a 92 dr that sat for five years. Got the carburetor cleaned by someone who had the right tools and knowledge to do it right. Runs beautiful. I think he charged me $25. Don’t understand why he got the dremel tool out? It’s not hard to remove a stripped screw. It’s a pain but not rocket science. Not a reg watcher so maybe he’s got some amazing content otherwise. Just being that grumpy old guy.
My stock 2018 DRZ400S has instant throttle response and I've never had to fiddle with the carb - just saying. I understand that you bought your DRZ400S second hand, so many of the mods were already done when you purchased the bike. Tuning the oxygen and fuel mixture is a critical balance done in the factory on a dyno. The problems with the carburator starts when people change the factory settings, e.g. 3x3 air filter mod, loud AF after market exhaust, and new carburator jetting kit. My DRZ400S has plenty of power for me with instantaneous throttle response and a pleasantly quiet exhaust. Part of the reason for long maintenance intervals on the DRZ400S is due to the tuning. Once you modify your DRZ to get more power, not only have you introduced never ending carb tuning problems, but now your maintenance intervals have been shortened considerably 🤙✌️
In Arnold Terminator 1 voice: "wrong!". As long as you run a safe a/f ratio (correct jetting), stock timing and compression, adeaquate fuel octane, and dont overrev from downshifting too early, reliability will be the same as stock. Yes jetting may not be perfect initially after mods but there is a large data pool for jetting settings for certain mods.
The lectrons are ok, the main draw to them is you don't need to jet for altitude it runs decent at any elevation. The fact 39 or 41 woulda been they way to go. By far better than the lectrons.
@@ColonCrusher What about Smartcarbs? They are supposed to be better than Lectrons, mostly improved at low rpm from videos ive seen. I wonder how the Fcr and Smartcarbs compare in response, torque curve, and mpg. Obviously a Fcr carb can be had much cheaper.
yea, as said before don't complicate carburators, they are simple, you went from vacum throttle to cable throttle that is why you feel a difference, if you took a minute or two to study carburators you would be much more appricated by the way your bike runs. And alot easier to determine whats wrong incase of emergency. Jetting is fun and easy, and you will be able to make it run just the way you want it to. Just check the spark plug after a decent amount of miles to see the color with this Lectron.
I strongly recommend a camera with good AF for video. Latest Sony and Canon models are very good in this department. One can easily be found for less money than than cost of this carburetor...
Could have just turned a couple screws on your carburetor, got the JD jet kit for the carb and done the 3 by 3 mods and maybe a slip-on and that will wake the bike up. Would have taken about the same amount of time
I have been looking at this for a while now, how is it holding up after 3 years? Thinking about the durability of this kit. Or even maintainability with all the additives in fuel these days....
I'm having carburetor problems. I only ride every so often. So bad gas is there. I guess. I use 93 octane. 3x3 mod with full yoshimura exhaust. Hope this can help. What do ya think 🤔?
I just got mine and hooked it up. But I have the stock petcock. I have two lines coming out of the fuel tank and cant get it to start. Got a stock Mikuni carburetor
I cringed when he was grinding the bolt and sending metal shavings every where right next to an open carb. That's why I prefer to buy mostly stock used bikes
Yes it does if you're considering the altitude (air density). After that, it's more about the air intake than the jettings .. I think .. if it's cold, open the intake since air density is less .. if it's hot, close it a little because air is dense .. but no one does that on a regular base. So it might be running a little rich on cold days and the other way around on hot ones.
I have dabbled in the FCR39, FCR39mx etc...I love want to love them, but never had luck, They're awesome for tuning, terrible for daily reliable riding...Many wearable non replaceable parts too. I always had a fickle issue w/ them. went back to the Mikuni as I mostly street and mild trail ride. I have a YZ250 for full on dirt riding.
@@user-ox2xi6kk8o Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for that heads up. I"m already too far invested in the FCR I put on mine to go back. If I were to find someone to buy the FCR, I'd consider a Lectron. I'm not going back to the Mikuni. I'll retrofit it with fuel injection from another model (even if more time consuming) before I go back to the Mikuni. Though if the Lectron is worth the money, I'll still consider it. Also, mega kudos on the YZ250. I have an 03 KX250 myself!
Big thanks to BeRad for helping me out with the Lectron! It's a game changer for the DRZ. Get yours at www.berad-products.com/
hi love ur cannel i went to the website and couldn't find the carb for drz400 which one do i need to get?
How much do they cost
You dont have any issues with any vacum creating a resistance when twisting the throttle?
Removal of the rectifier makes a world of difference. Just two 10mm. Removal of the long bolt and nut helps, but if you LOOSEN, not remove the two bolts (12mm) that hold the rear subframe (down by the foot pegs) it’ll allow the rear subframe to slide back and give you tons of space.
The problem with the DRZ is,
It turns me into a hooligan, too flickable, too instant, too brilliant for hopping round town.
Too great 🤠
Thankfully it tops out well before the death speeds of a sport bike is the only savior lol
I don’t know about anyone else but I’m starting to miss the fact at the end of the videos.
they’re at the end of list videos
tall boy funny haha I checked all the list videos from recently and unfortunately none of them had the fact at the end.
tall boy funny haha the last video that I could find with a fact at the end was “So you want a Ninja 400”.
14:15 The sound of a satified gentleman.
Cheers good sir🥂
Most important DRZ400 mod, ever? I was sure it was a 6th gear!!!
lmao
how does it compare to a pumper carb? any thoughts on mpg?
@@chtomlin My used DRZ400sm came with an FCR pumper carb....mpg was terrible, high 30's even though it was jetted correctly. I went back to the stock carb. Much rather have a 6th gear!
@@kengoodrich9027 have you looked at wide ratio gears?
@@kengoodrich9027 this modern era is a horrible time for carbureted machines. Most people now who think they know about carbs don’t.
And the DR-Z seems perfectly fine to me with a 5 speed. It’s not designed to go much more than 65.
"I bought this for 2300 so it's not the most reliable"
Me: laughs in 400 second hand 125 starter bike
that's going to be me soon hopefully xD
I bought the LTZ 400 (same engine) in be Jan 2020 and ive only had to adjust the gas mixture screw as was running lean
Bought my E in May for $1300. Most reliable machine I've owned so far I'd say.
Lol paid the same for my E. Luv it great bike.
I bet Suzuki engineers are violently chewing on pens watching this video.
A Keihin FCR39 Slant on stock (Aus) jetting also just works out of the box, and is one of the best carbs for said bike unless you're heavily modified in which case the FCR41MX is better equipped to feed a 470-522 build.
Being 38mm and lacking an accelerator pump I can see the Lectron being a limiting factor long before a FCR39 Slant or FCR39MX (better pilot circuit) both of which are incredibly easy to set, are extremely reliable whilst being more capable of feeding said motor. Given prices and capabilities the Lectron just doesn't make sense.
When you look at the lectron carburetor you have to think about functionality the simplicity the easy adjustability and the fact that it doesn’t need any jetting for elevation or temperature change is what makes the lectron carburetor a good choice for adventure riders that do a lot of different elevation changes or someone that lives in a state with several elevations so the electron makes perfect sense when applied appropriately. Sure your other carburetors are great to but the electron stands alone in its function as simplicity.
@@earlgray4333well performance wise FCR knocks it out of the park, i 100% agree if ur an adventure rider or cross country that lectron or stock carb is 100% better but FCR definitely gives it a near/better performance than fuel injection, it 100% gives the drz the personality of an MX bike which a lot of people are looking for, i think all 3 carbs are just very subjective to what your looking for and what you do
I have terrible luck w/ the FCR. went back to Mikuni. They are so fickle is my experience.
@@user-ox2xi6kk8o they are very sensitive to tuning haha
I'd like to see 6 of these on a CBX that would be absolutely insane.
I'd like to see someone trying to sync them😂
"You crack the throttle and it just goes!"... That is what we want from out bikes for sure!
All I long for is to eliminate the dreaded hanging idle...
Getting an Lectron to idle properly and apply power in a linear fashion at cold temps/sea level has been the bane of my existence.
Same. Way too much hype for these. Mine's been having the rod/slide stick so the idle is never right for longer than a twist of the throttle.
same with any other carb these days. The cause is crap gasoline. Its junk like anything produced these days.
Came across your video today in reccomended. Immediately noticed my hometown! I just picked up a 2020 drz SM a few weeks back, but i live in ohio now. Instant sub!
i just bought a drz400sm yesterday!! couldnt be more perfect timing for this video 👍🏼
man try to use a smaller aperture or a shorter focal length lens, would help greatly with focusing. brighter light also helps. finally , use MF instead of AF. hope it helps.
Clearly it's a lack of ring lights that's the problem.
Honestly, a lot of the time buying a really nice compact with a high rate of auto focus and facial/eye recognition will outperform a dlsr for selfie distance shots but lighting on the face and not behind the subject helps a buuuunch.
Hey the guy is bike tuner not a filmographer lol.
The great thing about the Lectron is that it has no main jet, just a power jet for top end. As a demand carb, it also runs the right mixture at any altitude or temp.
So how much and how does it make my bike better?
@@Scantcity900 bills😬
Glad that my advice paid off. Hope that the throttle stick doesn't plague you anymore. Also glad I could get you to join the Lectron squad. Hell yeah.
Kiss me
"the tires feel good for being shhhi... Super cheap shinkos" 8:47
Good review and conclusion. Letting hygroscopic ethanol gas sit in a carb is what causes most issues. CV Carburetors work great and are very simple. For the way I use the DRZ reliability and serviceability is key and why I still have the stock CV carb. I use the DRZ for point to point solo desert riding at night. The DRZ can be re-jetted (or the Main and *Idle Jet* can be removed and cleaned) in ten minutes with the carb still installed, just turn it a few degrees to get access. Best solution is to get out and ride the bike on the daily or weekly. Sitting more than two months will cause issues, first with the idle jet.
So you remove the seat and just loosen and rotate the carb to get at the bottom side and access the jets?
Am I forgetting or missing anything?
Mine bogs out at mid to wot
@@IAmYourReflection You don't need to remove the side plastic and seat to get access to the jets. You can loosen the clamps on the air-filter boot and the intake then turn the carb. It will turn just enough so that using a 90 degree screwdriver you can access the bowl screws and then the three jets can be removed. You can also pull the air filter and move the slide with your finger to see if it is sticky. You can check the jets and slide then pull the carb for a deep clean if necessary. When you put it back together it is a good idea to replace to bowl screws with hex head screws (available at home depot). This will make the disassembly/assembly a bit easier in the future.
@@nightdipper5178 good tips! do you need to loosen the lower subframe bolts to get the carb out?
I only use non ethanol gas, and when I get home from a ride I turn gas off at the petcock and let it run til it dies. It was bogging bad at first but now that I've ran some high concentration injector and carb cleaner a few times it seems much better now. Still a delay when I wack the throttle wide open tho
@@IAmYourReflection Two bolts on the lower subframe and two bolts holding the exhaust to the sub frame. loosen the air filter boot and tilt the subframe up. I also pull the voltage regulator off. Unless there is a need a I leave the throttle cables and TPS attached. The only annoying step in the process is getting the air filter boot back on when the sub frame is lowered. I use a bent screw diver to help get it back around the carb. Not using ethanol is a big plus. If the issue was caused by the bike sitting I would clean or replace the jets. Good luck.
carburators are pretty simple to figure out, i wouldnt complicate them because of a lack of experience with them
Managed to rejet the carb on my klr 650 with the help of TH-cam, it wasn’t that difficult. Also carbs are much simpler for me to work on and cheaper than a tune on a fuel injected bike.
So much cheaper to work on!
Zach H exactly especially little carbs on single cylinder dirt bikes and such
Carbs were the first thing I learned
The thing is carbs may be easy to work on, I've done it, but I have never worked on a fuel injector in my entire life.
Do I see.....A RAM MOUNT?!?
An $800 dollar carb? Next!.
Even 3 years ago, you would not find a new Keihin FCR 39 carb for much less. New ones are still just under $800.
I had a KLR for 55K miles and 11 years, never had a problem with the carbs. Even with the crappy gas we get here
The most important mod for the DRZ by far, is corrected spring rates to match the riders weight. Another big bang for your buck is stainless steel brake lines. Better control levers is nice as well.
Yes sir. Mines is getting them put on I'm 230lb and my sag was terrible had to do it. Plus a full exhaust and 1st stage jet kit.
I can honestly say it's a slow bike but FUN AS FUCK!
I guarantee if you rode two identical drz's except one had braided brake lines...you could never ever tell the difference.
@@mboyer68 the strenght doesn't change , but it takes a lot longer till they fade. Not really noticable in normal riding , but take it to the track or do some stoppies and you will notice
Glad to see you have the DRZ blasting around again, Spite. Well done.
$800 for one of those things. I think I’ll just keep fiddling 😆
$800??? Seriously? Gaaaaadaaaaaaaamn.
I jetted my 18 and never had a issue dialed her in with a wideband, butt dyno approved
Then you better not ever consider a Keihin FCR 39 carb upgrade either.
WD40 is the only Essential Oil I believe in. Can your fancy perfume water fix 95% of the problems for anything? I thought not.
Funny, but WD-40 is garbage for anything but displacing water, or cleaning up other greases. It can't penetrate with a crap like PB blaster/DeepCreep/ Zep Pro, can't lubricate once something cracks loose like silicone or MoSO2, can't protect or prevent seizing because it evaporates. It's awful at everything
@@VndNvwYvvSvv False. It works fine as a lube. Was able to repair a stuck throttle body for an old toyota that would have cost $800 to replace with nothing more than WD40...and since the repair it did not stick again. Also great for cleaning and lubing chains at the same time, especially because it doesn't leave a gunky residue.
Tbh WD40 has never solved any problem for me... its just crap that doesnt work. Im using more professional, more specific chemicals. You would be amazed to see how good they work... its like magic
@@alphaforce6998 its a good thing for removing oil/grease . its crap at lubing anything
@@alphaforce6998 id never use wd40 alone for a motorcycle chain. bicycle chains, maybe. its great for cleaning chains though.
I've got 20k on my bike and have never touched it since I opened up the air box at 2k and rejetted, not sure why people hate carbs, stupid easy and mechanical
If you live where you can ride year-round then you likely don't have problems with carb low speed jet plugging which is a PIA. I have to use non-enthanol premium fuel to minimize this issue. I currently own my second fuel injected bike and they both have run nearly perfect all the time warm or cold and no fiddling even after extended storage with fuel stabilizer.
Carbs are amazing for what they do but they are at best a significant compromise. A carb ALWAYS sacrifices fuel economy and emissions for performance. Carbs can never achieve the same optimal level of performance as they represent added restriction in the form of a venturi to accurately meter fuel. Then there is the aspect of driveability across temperature ranges, altitude, and cold start choke/enrichment fiddling.
On the road my VStrom 1000 gets better fuel economy than my DR650 that I fitted with a modified airbox and Keihin FCR MX 39. There is simply no comparison between the weight and performance between the two and the same would apply to DRZ 400 as well.
I wish Suzuki would invest money in replacing the DRZ400 and DR650 with 350-400cc and 500-650 cc bikes to better compete with KTM at a competitive price point with Japanese reliability/dealer support and re-open these bikes to a more global market. These bikes have been grand-fathered in under the old emissions regulations and sooner or later this is likely to end along with your choice to purchase one.
probably bc of reliability and ease of maintenance and storage
@@kannermw Couldn't say it better myself.
People that live in states where the elevation or temperature varies. I live in texas so I'm good with a carb lol
@@kannermw Those two bikes should never be replaced. Yeah more modern bikes could be offered but simple mechanical bikes should never go away.
I also experienced carb troubles. And decided to go with a Lectron.i just put it on my bike the other day and am very happy with. Can’t wait to post my results with mine in a few days.
Any update on this?
@@steverich1880 no
Results??
@@GODSWORD11i stole his bike mb yall
@@mrsuperbigmac you didn’t steal anything, beta boy..
Lectron are good carbs, most drag bike racers used them, adjust the mixture needle and you are done pretty much self adjusting after that
I really dig the clear bowl, so you have some more clues of whats going on.
My drz has 3x3 mod with JD jet kit and a fmf power core 4 and powerbomb header. She will run!
what carb? and jetting?
I have a carbureted bike with a 32mm flat slide and it’s perfect 👌.
xr650r + 40mm mikuni pumper carb = ALL THE POWER
@@ayyblyat9450 what's yer jetting!?
@@Aridrona Honestly I have no idea. I've got an opened up airbox, XR's Only full exhaust, and all I know is that it runs smooth and idles great. No hesitation at all.
What a funky looking drz u have sir
Like most people who mod their DRZ, I fitted an FCR39 pumper carb. Mine came off a YZF450 and I got an adaptor kit for $80. The YZF jetting was right for my 434 kit and bigger exhaust.
The difference is night and day. The carb on the S/SM is underpants. Too small and slow to respond to throttle input. EVERYONE should fit an FCR39.
I'm no mechanic but I do know a thing or two about stripped screws etc. Look into an easy out drill bit. Such a life saver!
No more jetting or never touching it again is not possible with a carb. BeRAD might be able to put a good base jetting in, based on your specs, gas and altitude, but if you go change altitude it will change how well it runs. This happens with any carb on any bike.
It is highly advisable to check if it actually runs well if you do mods or swap carbs, by putting it on a dyno with an AF meter.
The only true maintenance-free option is self-adjusting injection, which is impossible on a DRZ as far as I can find.
For so long I've been looking for a Lectron for my DRZ400SM big bore stroker build, but could never find them for the DRZ for some reason. It's now a 462cc with a long ratio ACT gearbox and a Lectron would be the cherry on top.
Lectron carbs are unconventional carbs that do not use jets, and they have a mechanism (some kind of metering rod) that can automatically adjust for things like changes in altitude. I have not used one yet though, so I don't know how well this works. I definitely find them to be a curiosity though.
@@robinsonrom Carbureted cars use metering rods or blocks as well, but it is never perfect. I read a fair bit about them being rich down low from factory, which is probably to be on the safe side.
I'm still considering getting one, although the conversion kind of broke the bank. It's an 800,- carb, while a 39mm FCR is only 350,- usually.
Oh come on...didn't you see? He smelled his glove and it wasn't stanky. If you need any more proof you're just being a jerk.
I love carburetors I hope they stay on the drz
What is the front light kit you have on ? I love it
10:43 while waiting at a red light i always love enjoying exhaust fumes 🤣
Smarter every day chanel : how a carburator works 😉
I subcribed to youre chanel mate thks for the vid ✌
Hahahaha, removing /fitting a carb to a DRZ - I feel your pain this video looked like it caused a lot of stress, poor Spike!
Yeah, top secret carb that's been around since the 80's. Used them on TZ's. Never let anyone borrow your honed needles if they work well with bike.
To fix those carbs, just take the fuel bowl off and take the jets out and soak them in carb cleaner, before using an air nozzle to blow them clear.
Love all the vids I'ma watch em all night
Best grips I ever used were these cheapo's made by SuperCycle, meant for a bicycle. A weird foam. Great grip, and lowered the vibes through the hand.
Finally a real video and not a bunch of derppy cuts of generic videos and pictures
I’m a little late on this one but...
I have a 92 dr that sat for five years. Got the carburetor cleaned by someone who had the right tools and knowledge to do it right. Runs beautiful. I think he charged me $25.
Don’t understand why he got the dremel tool out? It’s not hard to remove a stripped screw. It’s a pain but not rocket science.
Not a reg watcher so maybe he’s got some amazing content otherwise. Just being that grumpy old guy.
I've heard those carbs are a real hit or miss.
Word I love this style of video
Here I was expecting you added fuel injection... Nope. You just traded one set of issues for another.
I own a lectron, never given me problems ever and only had to change the idle once
My stock 2018 DRZ400S has instant throttle response and I've never had to fiddle with the carb - just saying. I understand that you bought your DRZ400S second hand, so many of the mods were already done when you purchased the bike. Tuning the oxygen and fuel mixture is a critical balance done in the factory on a dyno. The problems with the carburator starts when people change the factory settings, e.g. 3x3 air filter mod, loud AF after market exhaust, and new carburator jetting kit. My DRZ400S has plenty of power for me with instantaneous throttle response and a pleasantly quiet exhaust. Part of the reason for long maintenance intervals on the DRZ400S is due to the tuning. Once you modify your DRZ to get more power, not only have you introduced never ending carb tuning problems, but now your maintenance intervals have been shortened considerably 🤙✌️
😂
In Arnold Terminator 1 voice: "wrong!". As long as you run a safe a/f ratio (correct jetting), stock timing and compression, adeaquate fuel octane, and dont overrev from downshifting too early, reliability will be the same as stock. Yes jetting may not be perfect initially after mods but there is a large data pool for jetting settings for certain mods.
Im sure your Prius also has plenty of power
Tune’n into Noob Toob.
A Lectron is just a flat slide carb that comes pre jetted for your bike. Too expensive if you ask me
800.00, Damn.
Has anyone asked you yet?
Huh, I thought you were going to pull out the FCR39, I've never heard of the lectron carbs before.
The lectrons are ok, the main draw to them is you don't need to jet for altitude it runs decent at any elevation. The fact 39 or 41 woulda been they way to go. By far better than the lectrons.
@@ColonCrusher What about Smartcarbs? They are supposed to be better than Lectrons, mostly improved at low rpm from videos ive seen. I wonder how the Fcr and Smartcarbs compare in response, torque curve, and mpg. Obviously a Fcr carb can be had much cheaper.
yea, as said before don't complicate carburators, they are simple, you went from vacum throttle to cable throttle that is why you feel a difference, if you took a minute or two to study carburators you would be much more appricated by the way your bike runs.
And alot easier to determine whats wrong incase of emergency.
Jetting is fun and easy, and you will be able to make it run just the way you want it to.
Just check the spark plug after a decent amount of miles to see the color with this Lectron.
I strongly recommend a camera with good AF for video. Latest Sony and Canon models are very good in this department. One can easily be found for less money than than cost of this carburetor...
From the title, was hoping for Microsquirt or some other add-in EFI
The whole bowl filled with fuel is that right?
Could have just turned a couple screws on your carburetor, got the JD jet kit for the carb and done the 3 by 3 mods and maybe a slip-on and that will wake the bike up. Would have taken about the same amount of time
JD kit gets a lot of hate, I got good results on the Mikuni, bad results on the FCR.
That’s that shaky throttle hand twist, yam be talking about
I have a JD jet, 3x3 and MRD full exhaust on my drz400. That was under 500.00. She's a ripper. Throttle response still sucks.
+1 for RAM mount rear view mirror
The double takes work great
I have been looking at this for a while now, how is it holding up after 3 years? Thinking about the durability of this kit. Or even maintainability with all the additives in fuel these days....
Thank u so much for muting
the drummel 😂
Yammie noob with the flappy tubes here we go
Ah yes, my daily dose of internet
What clutch cover is that?
If ever there was an advert for the love of just riding a bike 👍👍👍
I'm having carburetor problems. I only ride every so often. So bad gas is there. I guess. I use 93 octane. 3x3 mod with full yoshimura exhaust. Hope this can help. What do ya think 🤔?
Carbs are pretty simple.
I’m worried you couldn’t figure out that OEM carb, it’s not like it was as complex as the FCR39
off topic .. @ 14:14 is that wobble normal with drz’s ? Been hesitating to put steering damper bcs its very expensive .
what year is your cycle....I just bought a 2009 for 2K
Spite! Make your own channel side love these type of videos you really brang good energy
Can't wait to get my drz this summer.
You getting the SM or S model?
@@racketbrass2686 the s don't need the sm for a extra thousand when I will just uprage it
Geesh! Throw a cool thousand cash at it and it BETTER run good!
Ten-hundred and Fifty-two thousand percent is quite a lot. That seems like it's totally worth the cost and time to replace it.
I had a lectron on my 77 Bultaco
Have one on my yz 250, for sure a must do mod
Instant like for the Amon Amarth sticker, very fitting as you look like a viking
i just rejetted and it feels like a new bike! why didnt you just go fcr39
does this carb clog less? my stock carb clogs every 2 weeks if I don’t ride it for a few days it’s hella annoying
Hi I've got a drz400e and i got a wideband lamda sensor to jet my fcr and running great. Cost 50 pounds from Ebay
Thinking of getting an fcr39, to fit to my sm. Can you elaborate further, make, part # and all that good stuff?
What exhaust are you running in this video?
Does the 1 milion turbo busa still count
Might get this carb seem to have fuel issues with the oem carb on my 2018 drz. Under full throttle itll rev up 😭
I just got mine and hooked it up. But I have the stock petcock. I have two lines coming out of the fuel tank and cant get it to start. Got a stock
Mikuni carburetor
what kind of tachometer are you running?
YAY im going to buy my first drz next week
Did you buy it?
Does the 400 wheelie ? I was thinking of getting it for 1st bike
Haha. Another great video. Reminds me of my changes. Fuck it up twice to get it done right. Lol.
I wana try to use a lectron as a blow threw with a turbo on my drz.
Is there any change in MPG? Better or worse?
I cringed when he was grinding the bolt and sending metal shavings every where right next to an open carb. That's why I prefer to buy mostly stock used bikes
Seen a mechanic with oil all over his hands eating a sandwich: do what works. You right though better to be cautious
How did you enjoy the lectron carb… any power difference?
Is there a tachometer on your DRZ?
I just found a drz for 1300 it’s an 04 with 7k miles, I maybe have to do this if I have carb troubles
Doesn’t carb jetting matter base of the atmosphere around you how dense the air is etc ?
Yes it does if you're considering the altitude (air density). After that, it's more about the air intake than the jettings .. I think .. if it's cold, open the intake since air density is less .. if it's hot, close it a little because air is dense .. but no one does that on a regular base. So it might be running a little rich on cold days and the other way around on hot ones.
What kinda tires do you use
How do the Lectron carbs honestly fare against the Keihin FCR 39 carbs?
I have dabbled in the FCR39, FCR39mx etc...I love want to love them, but never had luck, They're awesome for tuning, terrible for daily reliable riding...Many wearable non replaceable parts too. I always had a fickle issue w/ them. went back to the Mikuni as I mostly street and mild trail ride. I have a YZ250 for full on dirt riding.
@@user-ox2xi6kk8o Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for that heads up. I"m already too far invested in the FCR I put on mine to go back. If I were to find someone to buy the FCR, I'd consider a Lectron. I'm not going back to the Mikuni. I'll retrofit it with fuel injection from another model (even if more time consuming) before I go back to the Mikuni.
Though if the Lectron is worth the money, I'll still consider it.
Also, mega kudos on the YZ250. I have an 03 KX250 myself!
Keep the GOD DAMMITS coming.
Wrong carb bro.... FCR39 MX.....