Fantastic video. I have a 1980 xs400 special sg I pulled out of a chicken coop. Hasn’t run in more than 10 years. Remarkably we got it started and we were able to drive it around until fuel was coming out of the air filters. (And a fuel oil mixture that was dripping from I don’t know where) Going to now start the carb clean and rebuild. Really appreciate the video!
@@jnelson9642 this concern is a direct fault of the needle seat (the needle on the float) You will need to check the oring on the housing and make sure it's clean and not square or broken. If all this is done then a new needle will be required.
In your video you are able to unscrew one of the pilot screws. (One of your last steps). Mine seems to be covered with an anti-tamper plug. Further research online offered the following explanation: “It looks like you’re dealing with the brass anti-tamper plug that covers the pilot screw (or air-fuel mixture screw) on the carburetor. These plugs were often installed to prevent tampering with emissions settings. To remove this plug, you will typically need to carefully drill a small hole in the center of the brass disk. Once you’ve made a small hole, you can use a screw or pick to pull the disk out. Be cautious not to drill too deeply or damage the pilot screw beneath it. If you’re unsure about drilling, you might try heating the area gently to see if that loosens it, but typically, drilling is the method most use. If you’re hesitant, you could also consult a local mechanic or carburetor specialist. Does this approach sound workable for your setup?” Assuming this is accurate , do think we should proceed in trying to drill them out. I do believe the rebuild kit I have does include a new pilot screw. Thank you and I appreciate your time and advice.
@@jnelson9642 yes this will just be a plug. Most guys will drill a small hole then use a screw to insert into hole. Then, that should be able to pull the screw and the plug out at the same time.
Great video with awesome explanations! While cleaning carburetors, I had lost that little ball in the choke rod assembly. Any idea how specific the size of that ball is?
@@theMADox89 I did find a ball bearing from a old ford ignition switch. They are cheap from your local parts store. I'm not totally sure about the spring though. I can't remember if there was a spring in it as well that would work. If you don't get a OEM one I believe you will have to disassemble the after market one to get the ball. Or if you are intuitive enough, you can get one from an old parts truck, but you would need the key to remove it from the steering column.
great video. wish you had posted this sooner.thx for sharing. how did you get the float needle housing out🤔.ive had mine out once had to clamp mole grips gently on to it and pull.is there an easier way 🤔
I use side cutters on the flare end. Just the leverage of the taper side of the cutters is enough to pull the shaft out to then use your fingers for the rest.
I have an 81 XS200 special that I'm working on which came stock with mikuni carbs, but all the kits for these seem to specifically say 'not for 1981 XS200 with mikuni carbs' on them. Any ideas about how to get around this if I need new jets? I think the gaskets from some of the older kits will work
You can resize jets with very small drill bits. (Best to measure the bits first before drilling) If you need to go a smaller size you can fill the jet with solder and drill the size you need. I highly recommend using a drill press and the needle jet to hold the jet as the drill bits can break easily and leave you in trouble if you get it stuck in the jet.
Fantastic video. I have a 1980 xs400 special sg I pulled out of a chicken coop. Hasn’t run in more than 10 years. Remarkably we got it started and we were able to drive it around until fuel was coming out of the air filters. (And a fuel oil mixture that was dripping from I don’t know where) Going to now start the carb clean and rebuild. Really appreciate the video!
@@jnelson9642 this concern is a direct fault of the needle seat (the needle on the float) You will need to check the oring on the housing and make sure it's clean and not square or broken. If all this is done then a new needle will be required.
Thank you! I appreciate the reply and the advice. This is uncharted territory for me!
In your video you are able to unscrew one of the pilot screws. (One of your last steps). Mine seems to be covered with an anti-tamper plug. Further research online offered the following explanation:
“It looks like you’re dealing with the brass anti-tamper plug that covers the pilot screw (or air-fuel mixture screw) on the carburetor. These plugs were often installed to prevent tampering with emissions settings.
To remove this plug, you will typically need to carefully drill a small hole in the center of the brass disk. Once you’ve made a small hole, you can use a screw or pick to pull the disk out. Be cautious not to drill too deeply or damage the pilot screw beneath it.
If you’re unsure about drilling, you might try heating the area gently to see if that loosens it, but typically, drilling is the method most use. If you’re hesitant, you could also consult a local mechanic or carburetor specialist. Does this approach sound workable for your setup?”
Assuming this is accurate , do think we should proceed in trying to drill them out. I do believe the rebuild kit I have does include a new pilot screw. Thank you and I appreciate your time and advice.
@@jnelson9642 yes this will just be a plug. Most guys will drill a small hole then use a screw to insert into hole. Then, that should be able to pull the screw and the plug out at the same time.
Thank you for the reply!
can you do a video on float adjustment 🤔
Great video with awesome explanations! While cleaning carburetors, I had lost that little ball in the choke rod assembly. Any idea how specific the size of that ball is?
Going through my tool box, I found the spring and ball. Now I realize I don't have the washer and O ring. How crucial are these?
@@theMADox89 I did find a ball bearing from a old ford ignition switch. They are cheap from your local parts store. I'm not totally sure about the spring though. I can't remember if there was a spring in it as well that would work. If you don't get a OEM one I believe you will have to disassemble the after market one to get the ball. Or if you are intuitive enough, you can get one from an old parts truck, but you would need the key to remove it from the steering column.
@@theMADox89 washer and oring for what part of the carb?
Good video man !
great video. wish you had posted this sooner.thx for sharing. how did you get the float needle housing out🤔.ive had mine out once had to clamp mole grips gently on to it and pull.is there an easier way 🤔
I use side cutters on the flare end. Just the leverage of the taper side of the cutters is enough to pull the shaft out to then use your fingers for the rest.
@kuvakustom_cycles7623 thanks .what's side cutters 🤔
@@bc-mr1si Pliers used to normally cut wire
@@kuvakustom_cycles7623 ah got u.ill take the carbs off again for god knows how many times😀👍
I have an 81 XS200 special that I'm working on which came stock with mikuni carbs, but all the kits for these seem to specifically say 'not for 1981 XS200 with mikuni carbs' on them. Any ideas about how to get around this if I need new jets? I think the gaskets from some of the older kits will work
You can resize jets with very small drill bits. (Best to measure the bits first before drilling) If you need to go a smaller size you can fill the jet with solder and drill the size you need. I highly recommend using a drill press and the needle jet to hold the jet as the drill bits can break easily and leave you in trouble if you get it stuck in the jet.
hey cutie
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